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EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast


EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast

ratings:
Length:
182 minutes
Released:
Dec 18, 2023
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-mattNuggets:0:03:55 – Introducing to Matt Jones0:06:43 – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for0:09:20 – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced0:12:37 – Reminder about timestamps0:13:31 – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)0:20:24 – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--0:23:45 – Beginner | Overview0:23:45 – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence0:25:53 – Beginner | Strong Not Good0:27:35 – The Hammer0:28:51 – Not everything is a nail0:30:00 – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer0:34:06 – Beginner | Good Not Strong0:34:06 – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset0:34:47 – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)0:36:18 – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing0:41:48 – Interventions for beginners0:46:35 – Identifying the low-hanging fruit0:47:40 – Beginner | Summary0:51:11 – Using climbing as a training intervention0:53:41 – Checking your ego0:55:27 – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--0:59:06 – Intermediate | Overview0:59:06 – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades1:01:42 – “Oh no, now what?!”1:03:22 – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber1:05:24 – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years1:07:14 – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story1:10:09 – Trying hard vs. trying well1:12:10 – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing1:13:30 – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working1:17:54 – Intermediate | Strong Not Good1:18:51 – Chunking1:20:25 – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta1:22:47 – The guess and check model, and turning new dials1:25:21 – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line1:27:50 – Hip in vs. square drill1:29:43 – Building a process for problem-solving1:30:16 – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber1:33:38 – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training1:39:20 – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers1:43:00 – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy1:48:20 – Separating practice, training, and performance1:50:11 – Intermediate | Good Not Strong1:50:11 – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first1:56:34 – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves2:03:19 – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermed
Released:
Dec 18, 2023
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

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