101 min listen
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
ratings:
Length:
109 minutes
Released:
Apr 8, 2024
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
Released:
Apr 8, 2024
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast