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EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast


EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast

ratings:
Length:
192 minutes
Released:
Jan 9, 2023
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnuttNuggets:0:08:20 – Anna’s childhood room0:10:00 – Plans for Austria0:11:21 – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast0:12:50 – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus0:14:35 – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)0:17:39 – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget0:19:41 – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche0:24:40 – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side0:28:57 – Balancing intensity and comedy0:30:10 – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still0:33:30 – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK0:35:53 – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall0:39:29 – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E90:41:33 – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab0:45:38 – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters0:50:14 – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E90:55:32 – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests1:01:01 – Some context about the 9c test1:02:53 – Toe training!1:07:11 – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility1:09:15 – Leaning into our superpowers1:14:53 – Anna’s dream board, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style1:19:30 – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house1:24:09 – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them1:28:45 – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits1:31:23 – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged1:38:04 – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)1:41:20 – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on1:43:19 – Shoulder exercises for slab1:44:12 – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?1:46:59 – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d)1:52:54 – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like?1:58:52 – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from?2:02:55 – Anna’s sensitivity2:04:14 – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet2:09:31 – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page2:16:14 – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym2:21:18 – Patron question from James: How can we make women fee
Released:
Jan 9, 2023
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

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