101 min listen
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
ratings:
Length:
114 minutes
Released:
May 18, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders. We talked about some of Mikey’s most meaningful first ascents, experiences on Liberty Bell, balancing risk and reward, becoming a jack of all trades, and building his pyramid. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mikey-schaefer-part-1 Nuggets: 3:03 – The ‘Eggsadilla’ 6:56 – Mikey’s first major FA on the South Face of Mt. Bradley (‘Little Big Man’) 14:32 – The Dancing Dihedrals feature, and the A3 rating 18:10 – Getting old/soft (joke), how Mikey’s risk profile has shifted, and balancing risk and reward 21:44 – Putting up first ascents, “Who’s experience am I doing this for?”, and Mikey’s perspective shift in putting up new routes 25:33 – Learning by making mistakes, and when to push your limits 30:22 – Preserving the experience of routes 32:53 – Liberty Bell and the arc of Mikey’s climbing progression, rope soloing, father time, and putting up the hardest big wall route in WA 45:55 – Finding the gem (‘Dark Side of Liberty’) 49:54 – Being called a sandbagger and Mikey’s thoughts on grading routes 56:31 – Mikey’s tendency to not think he’s as strong as he is, “good” vs “great” climbers, and a shifted paradigm 59:00 – Being a jack of all trades, balancing multiple disciplines, how different disciplines help each other in a spiral, and climbing Cerro Torre 1:04:17 – The ‘Why’ behind Mikey being a jack of all trades in climbing, his influences and personality, and being the swiss army knife on productions 1:08:10 – Why Mikey doesn’t set long-term goals or make long-term plans, letting opportunities arise, and not knowing what’s next with COVID 1:13:18 – Varied approaches between different climbers, “There’s no recipe for success”, finding clues, and making the most of the cards you’re dealt 1:17:35 – Adding the training and bouldering bricks to the pyramid 1:19:03 – How Mikey trained to climb his first 5.14, repeaters using the Beastmaker App, weighted pull-ups, and muscle-ups 1:33:20 – Using video recordings as a tool, and front levers with Alex Honnold 1:37:13 – Being a shorter male climber (5’3”), different strength requirements for men and women, and an interesting comparison between Mikey and SJ 1:44:20 – The main benefits of bouldering and training the “try hard muscle”
Released:
May 18, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast