101 min listen
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health
ratings:
Length:
118 minutes
Released:
Mar 2, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ian-yurdin Nuggets: 1:40 – Barry’s backup beeper 3:55 – Renovating a 100-year-old train depot and moving the building 36 feet 7:10 – What sparked the idea for the Terrebonne Depot, seeing the building, and calling the owner every month for three years 12:17 – Building a place to bring together the community as a passion project vs. smart business move, and the storage shower 17:31 – Kristin sending Vicious Fish while working 60+ hours per week at the restaurant, and Ian’s favorite era at Smith (~2006-2008) 19:39 – Working through the other classic 5.13s and climbing ‘White Wedding’ 23:29 – “The Unfinishables” 25:03 – Herniated discs, colonoscopies, and cancer 28:38 – Ian’s current health, my experience working with Mark DeJohn, being your own health advocate, and Ian’s thoughts about surgery for disc injuries 35:30 – My friend’s experience with back surgery and pain killers 37:36 – Ian’s other life, footwear, and managing a 100-million-dollar business 42:51 – Transitioning into consulting, the difference between working for a brand vs. working for yourself, and the power of the consumer 50:03 – What can we do as consumers, thinking about where things come from, vetting brands, and voting with your dollars 53:42 – Different businesses as different organisms 56:24 – Ian’s history on ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ 1:13:09 – Passing on beta, being in Nina’s video, and failure yes or no, and the line between unfun and unhealthy 1:18:38 – ‘To Bolt’ as a Ph.D. in face climbing, and the tradeoffs of long-term projecting 1:20:46 – The temperature gun (thermometer), conditions, and noticing trends 1:32:56 – Ian’s warmup routine for ‘To Bolt’, forcing the pressure numb, and practicing falling 1:40:02 – Mixing in other pitches for fitness 1:42:26 – What Ian learned from climbing with Paige Claassen (now Paige de Kock) 1:49:53 – Gratitude for Casbah, health, friends, living in Central Oregon 1:53:41 – Ian’s excitement to be healthy and pain-free, climbing again, mountains, and being a dabbler alpinist 1:55:32 – Ian’s experience and thoughts on Instagram and Facebook
Released:
Mar 2, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast