94 min listen
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
ratings:
Length:
100 minutes
Released:
Apr 13, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses the treadwall, replicas, and the fingerboard, his two-part climbing career, favorite articles he’s written, and the crossover between philosophy and climbing. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bill-ramsey Nuggets: 1:47 – Skipping breakfast, one big meal per day, and red meat 3:35 – Fueling for a big training day 4:12 – How Bill’s legendary big training days came to be 7:20 – Shocking the body, and building the stamina to go all-day 9:03 – Coffee in bed 11:02 – Bill’s two-stage climbing career, how he started training for climbing, and self-coaching for the Marine Core Physical Fitness Test 15:01 – Climbing through the existing routes at the Red River Gorge, his first 5.14, climbing Omaha Beach and Transworld Depravity and playing a roll in the development of the Red and Smith Rock 19:39 – Feeling sorry for Alan and the wrongest Bill has ever been 22:32 – Climbing at the columns, Chris Jones, the contrivance rating system (C1-C4), and some of Alan’s one-handed ascents 26:44 – Focusing on academics and missing climbing and the climbing community 28:47 – What drew Bill to study philosophy 32:45 – Moving to Vegas and why Bill has never regretted making the move 37:20 – How Bill climbed all but one of his 26-27 5.14s after age 40 and 39:23 – Bill’s warmup and stretching routines 42:28 – How Bill combines training with projecting 43:58 – Bills hangboard routine 45:37 – Replicas, practicing the crux as the warmup, and comparing to gymnastics 47:51 – How Bill builds his replicas and makes custom holds 50:43 – Training on the treadwall, and why Bill thinks the treadwall is the most underutilized training tool for route climbers 55:31 – Targeting route lengths and ARCing with the treadwall 56:39 – Using the treadwall to work on climbing faster, and keeping a training journal 58:11 – Similar ingredients in each training day, Bill’s thoughts on training different energy systems, energy system training order, and why Bill doesn’t bother with skill training 1:01:33 – Training and simulating rest positions 1:03:07 – Opposition training and why Bill thinks ~85% of your training time should be climbing-specific 1:05:06 – Fingertip pullups and “finger ups”, and why Bill thinks both are beneficial 1:07:40 – Long duration (density) hangs 1:08:48 – An example of one of Bill’s legendary training days 1:09:35 – Being a local at 6 different crags, and trends and variation that Bill has noticed 1:12:09 – How Bill thinks about balancing building his route pyramid and quick ticks with big projects, his process on Jumbo Pumping Hate, and climbers as nerds trapped in athlete bodies 1:17:47 – The hidden secrets that routes have, Apollo 13, and problem solving 1:20:13 – Tinkering with new beta, and committing to trying 100% every try 1:23:44 – Bill’s writing, his article defending chipping, ‘The Day I Sent Golden’ and writing the forward to the new Smith Rock guidebook 1:28:16 – What Bill is most grateful for 1:29:38 – Crossover between philosophy and climbing 1:30:24 – ‘The Truth and Lies of Climbing’, climbing Separate Reality, and realizing they weren’t that far off from the top 1:35:52 – Bill and Alan’s influence on one another, why Bill feels so fortunate for his path through life and climbing, and feeling like Forest Gump 1:38:52 – Plans for a round 2 interview with Bill and Alan and the welcoming Vegas climbing community
Released:
Apr 13, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken: Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pakistan, lessons from mentors, favorite post-expedition foods, and how to build an anchor in f***ed up snow. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast