118 min listen
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
ratings:
Length:
94 minutes
Released:
Dec 7, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Alex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers Shop Athletic Brewing Beer Nuggets: 4:09 – Mr. Golden Sun 7:40 – Googly eyed elephant 8:36 – Fritz 10:50 – An amazing day in Yosemite with Fritz 13:06 – The 100 V10’s goal, and Alex’s approach to climbing 18:33 – Balancing hard projecting with volume 22:10 – Obsession over a single project, and volume bouldering games 26:06 – The Swarm, trying to qualify for the Olympics, and the vulnerability of failing publically 32:58 – Storytelling and sharing training ideas on social media, and starting to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson 39:45 – Comps vs. outdoor climbing, and “my heart is in rock climbing” 44:38 – Moving back home to coach, and how coaching lead AJ back to competing 49:36 – Practice vs. training vs. performance 52:26 – Balancing practice, training, and performance, and “going to the gym is practice” 55:00 – Practice drills, and working a boulder to learn vs. to send 1:00:13 – Combining training and practice sessions on the same day, 6x2s, and mock comp days 1:02:39 – “Always with intension”, lone-wolf garage sessions, and the vulnerability of training 1:06:40 – AJ’s go-to exercises on the home wall, and “You have to try hard to try hard” 1:09:47 – Coming out, Bree’s quote, and being a role model 1:19:04 – “Be who you needed when you were younger.” 1:19:19 – Gus Kenworthy 1:24:49 – Bree 1:28:56 – Learning about self-love
Released:
Dec 7, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project: Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current training methods, how he mixes in climbing with training, tactics for quick redpointing, a new direction for his climbing, and The Fins project. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast