101 min listen
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
ratings:
Length:
62 minutes
Released:
Oct 12, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz Nuggets: 2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day” 5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’ 5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16 8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing 9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno 11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel” 14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better” 15:28 – Using your build as a gift, scrunch power, and working on weaknesses while taking advantage of strengths 18:22 – “Strength comes first” 18:52 – Balancing performance with training 21:38 – “Practice like you play”, climbing on boards, the role of weight lifting, and “the most important thing is climbing” 23:48 – Matt’s go-to weight-room exercises, and a teaser for OTG (more later in the episode) 24:03 – Deadlifting w/ Tension Blocks vs. hanging from a hangboard 26:48 – Matt’s grip selection for finger training, and grip training frequency (Off Season: every other day. Performance Season: once or twice per week) 29:07 – How Matt decides between the different boards he climbs on 30:52 – The importance of a strong support system 33:10 – Matt’s trip to Australia w/ Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival, and bouldering with a new level of detail 35:07 – Nutrition timing, and planning meals around climbing, or vice versa 37:08 – Matt’s pre-workout meal 38:37 – The Mad Rock ‘Drones’ 42:16 – Drones sizing (about 1.5 to 2 US sizes down from your street shoe) 44:50 – OTG Strength and how to train with Matt 49:24 – Balancing working/coaching with climbing 50:52 – Switching gears after ‘Hypnotized Minds’, project shopping, and climbing for fun 52:23 – Moving to CO and having access to a lot of hard boulders 53:40 – Dreams of van life 54:26 – Gratitude 55:30 – Where to connect with Matt 56:03 – Progressing every year, drawing inspiration from Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham, and goals 58:34 – The RV Moonboard 1:00:03 – “We will enjoy our Oreos today”
Released:
Oct 12, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast