118 min listen
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
ratings:
Length:
124 minutes
Released:
Apr 24, 2023
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosiNuggets:0:05:18 – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland0:07:56 – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for0:10:53 – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield0:12:17 – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated0:15:38 – Mutation continues to go unrepeated again after Will did it0:17:23 – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)0:20:07 – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed0:23:32 – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden0:25:10 – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move0:30:16 – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica0:33:45 – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session0:36:26 – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden0:41:12 – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta0:46:17 – What a full session looked like on the replica, and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder0:51:28 – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send0:54:48 – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder0:57:33 – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move0:58:53 – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots1:08:50 – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?1:12:03 – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed1:15:35 – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger1:26:27 – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard1:30:57 – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?1:34:21 – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b1:38:24 – Bigger edge training vs. micros1:40:52 – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity1:46:28 – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)1:49:10 – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur1:52:21 – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer1:53:59 – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Es
Released:
Apr 24, 2023
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health: Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) by The Nugget Climbing Podcast