101 min listen
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
ratings:
Length:
58 minutes
Released:
Mar 16, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent freak accident and broken finger, the injury process, trad climbing tips, pushing through fear vs. listening to fear, and a case for more climbing/less training. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-stanhope Nuggets: 2:14 – The cruxes of dating internationally as a Canadian 3:00 – Freedom of the Wheels 4:35 – Will’s recent accident and finger injury, modern medicine, and getting the hardware removed 6:56 – “It’s the easy ground that gets you.” 7:14 – Running, rehab, flow state, and a day of easy soloing 9:15 – Having goals and listening to the body, numb scar tissue and Will’s freak accident, and Will’s finger X-Ray 11:03 – Filling the void while injured, “There’s more to life than climbing”, and fly fishing plans 14:09 – FFA of the ‘Tom Egan Memorial Route’ in the Bugaboos, and lots of rainy tent time 15:59 – History of the ‘Tom Egan Memorial Route’ and the pretties crack Will has ever seen 17:06 – “The perfect training recipe” (i.e. manual labor + hangboard repeaters), Will’s thoughts on hard tips crack climbing, and why the rest of us should exercising caution when it comes to hard crack climbing 20:56 – Soloing as a part of Will’s training, and a case for climbing more 22:03 – Guiding and getting recognized for past accomplishments 23:28 – Shifting away from hardcore projecting, and the Howzer Tower linkup w/ Leo Holding 26:30 – Simulclimbing, finding the right partner, and (contrived) climbing games 30:18 – Future projects, getting into mountain climbing, and “wielding all the swords” 32:03 – Headpointing vs. soloing, pushing through fear vs. listening to fear, and backing off 34:16 – Keeping soloing “safe” 35:09 – Downclimbing: “The lost art” 36:37 – Free soloing in Froggat (10+ years ago), trying ‘Parthian Shot’ and breaking his foot, and climbing ‘Muy Caliente’ 39:07 – The E-grade system 40:33 – What Will learned from climbing with Leo 42:00 – “You can’t skip learning”, and why Will keeps his goals to himself nowadays 44:12 – Bouldering 45:02 – Will’s trad climbing tips for racking up, and polysporin (or neosporin) for gobies 47:15 – “More climbing, less training” 49:19 – Will’s hangboarding protocol 50:22 – Pushups and training opposing muscles and core stability 51:59 – What Will wishes he’d known at age 20 (he’s currently 33 years old) “Trust your own instincts” 52:44 – What Will wishes he’d known at age 30 - “Always really clean your climbing shoes” 53:22 – Will’s Anthony Bourdain kick 55:20 – Grateful to be alive 55:51 – Excited to get back in the game 56:31 – Will’s Instagram, ‘Freedom of the Wheels’ sequel, wrap up
Released:
Mar 16, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast