101 min listen
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
ratings:
Length:
95 minutes
Released:
Apr 27, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked about the film Pretty Strong, her training and how she balances the many disciplines of climbing, and nutrition recommendations for climbers. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert Nuggets: 2:15 – Pretty Strong 4:19 – ‘Father Time’ breakdown, blood blister, dropping the tape, and deciding to go into support mode 9:45 – “A big part of climbing is failing.” 10:49 – What Katie learned from climbing with Nina, and vice versa 13:16 – Deadlifting to fix low back pain, the Birdo challenge, pulling 235 lbs, and how deadlifting has helped her climbing 18:11 – Iron Dragons 19:17 – Pinch training and hangboarding 24:36 – Sunday Funday 25:08 – Training power for a trip to the Red, and bouldering circuits (inside & outside) 26:57 – Campusing exercises, the importance of focusing on speed when training power, and campusing endurance 28:24 – The routes Katie was training for at the time 29:26 – Being a multi-discipline athlete, and how Katie thinks about structuring her climbing/training year 32:42 – Why Katie prefers the free-in-a-day style of big wall climbing 34:25 – Linking up ’The Rostrum’ and ‘Astroman’, Katie’s “little suffer bunny”, and feeling fit from The Hulk 36:39 – Goals for future linkups and quick ascents and plans to go back to ‘Father Time’ 39:52 – Katie’s go-to climbing shoes 40:58 – “I know who I am and I know what I’m doing.” 44:10 – Why Katie recommends that newer climbers (less than 5 years) just climb a lot in a variety of styles instead of focusing on training 46:24 – How learning offwidth techniques has helped Katie with tufa climbing 48:07 – The one kind of training Katie wishes she had started doing earlier and would recommend for climbers 48:54 – Katie’s three go-to strength exercises, and fingerboarding for healthy fingers 50:59 – Past ankle and finger injuries, why Katie avoids climbing in the cold, and being clammy and cold 53:54 – Katie’s favorite Rhino Skin Solutions products and how she uses them 54:51 – Rehab ideas for elbow tendonitis and finger injuries, and why just taking time off isn’t necessarily the best rehab strategy 1:00:18 – What Katie wishes she knew when she was age 20 1:01:47 – Same question for age 30, noticing a trend of tendon injuries climbing in the cold, my own experience with a finger injury 1:03:38 – How dehydration plays a role in finger injuries, electrolytes, and Katie’s favorite hydration cocktail for cold days 1:04:19 – Masters in nutrition, Bishop Cowork, writing, and nutrition coaching 1:05:30 – Two key nutrition tips/takeaways for climbers, recommended intake of water per day (1/2 fluid ounce per lb of bodyweight minimum), and climbers as sugar burners 1:07:51 – How Katie eats in a day 1:10:10 – Eating red meat, why Katie is into local and sustainable food and why she feels so lucky being in Bishop, Polyphase Farm, and the challenges of feeding a growing population 1:13:52 – Some of the side effects of a crappy diet, why diet is important (even if you look fit), and some of Katie’s recommendations 1:17:29 – Katie’s recommendations for those that want to stick to a vegetarian or vegan diet 1:18:12 – Nuts, and why Katie recommends eating them raw/soaked, and why she recommends avoiding peanuts and processed nuts and nut butters 1:20:00 – Katie’s recommendation for daily protein intake (1 gram per lb of bodyweight—it’s ok to start with 75% of that) 1:22:54 – Writing, why Katie is stopping her column at Climbing Magazine, and working on a cookbook 1:24:24 – Founding and running Sacred Rok 1:26:50 – Being sick for 24 days, gratitude for health, and “it’s a man thing” (being pathetic when we get sick) 1:28:26 – Katie’s upcoming trip to the Red 1:29:09 – Melt Down 1:31:
Released:
Apr 27, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast