101 min listen
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
ratings:
Length:
110 minutes
Released:
Jul 20, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmup routine, starting a climbing gym near the Red River Gorge, coaching in China, self-talk for confidence, and her most recent 5.14a. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/audrey-sniezek Nuggets: 1:58 – Peanut butter sandwiches, being a finisher of things, the lunch crux, and dry salads 5:48 – Timex computers, studying computer science, and turning down Microsoft 10:22 – Temporary job with Microsoft, REI, and “is there any climbing in Washington?” 12:43 – Bigger and scarier, improving by climbing a lot, lead climbing and pushing personal boundaries 14:21 – Flexibility with work, squeezing in climbing, and “I’m only as transparent as I need to be.” 16:03 – Alpine style sport climbing, and becoming a morning person 17:55 – Audrey’s morning warmup routine 20:58 – Making the most of morning sessions, swapping days, and finding a COVID pandemic buddy 23:45 – Waking up extra early to send ‘Lost Horizons’, and commuting to and from climbing 25:41 – The corporate boomerang, living in a van to climb full time, preferring to stay places longer, and Audrey’s current trifecta 28:58 – Fitness training, healthcare, why Audrey came back to a corporate job after freelancing, and building trust to achieve a better work/life balance 34:11 – A shift in company culture due to COVID 37:15 – A home in Vegas, and starting a gym in near the Red River Gorge 40:34 – Starting a computer science program at the Beattyville high school, and how the Beattyville climbing gym came to be 45:22 – Audrey’s vision for the gym, old-school setting, and watching the kids climb 47:28 – William’s stroke 49:37 – How Audrey uses the Beattyville gym and how she balances climbing and training in general 51:50 – Living in China and accidentally becoming a climbing coach 56:53 – Splitting up training and coaching, the language barrier, a teary-eyed farewell, and Audrey’s training legacy 1:00:20 – Audrey’s training session breakdown, Tabata style warmup, technique drills, going back to fundamentals, and training power on easy climbs 1:03:56 – Why Audrey doesn’t do much Moonboarding or hangboarding 1:05:39 – Recent finger injury, slowly getting back into the swing, and missing the “try hard” 1:08:02 – What factors help Audrey “bring it” 1:08:40 – ‘The Sickness’ 1:13:48 – ‘Black Plague’, linkups, milking climbs for all they’re worth, and new projects 1:16:39 – Four-year gap between 5.14s, competing in the world cups, and a hamstring injury 1:18:51 – How Audrey sent ‘The Sickness’ without any specific prep 1:20:50 – Trying a 5.14 at Mt. Potosi 1:23:39 – Goals and dreams 1:26:05 – ‘Dr. Evil’, funky beta, and a surprise send 1:31:03 – “The only thing stopping me is me.” 1:33:32 – 5.14 (or 5.15) in her 50s, “am I a machine”, and trying things sooner rather than later 1:34:32 – How’s Audrey training changed in her 40s, her own fitness and training resources 1:36:57 – What Audrey wishes she had known in her 20’s, confidence, and “I belong here” 1:39:45 – Self-talk, the piece of paper, and “I’m capable.” 1:41:43 – Low confidence, building yourself up, and reminding yourself that you create your results 1:42:41 – Gratitude, heartbreak, and community 1:45:06 – The victory cone
Released:
Jul 20, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast