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EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance

EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast


EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast

ratings:
Length:
112 minutes
Released:
Oct 19, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:0:07:08 – What is your Dawn Wall?0:07:59 – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany0:09:53 – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability0:15:21 – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)0:17:35 – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO0:20:17 – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor0:23:05 – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade0:25:20 – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris0:28:48 – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering0:30:04 – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do0:31:56 – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?0:34:00 – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite?0:35:16 – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold0:38:46 – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainbleau0:41:13 – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches0:46:42 – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?0:47:55 – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?0:58:12 – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything1:01:11 – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamisil1:04:53 – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work1:07:09 – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad1:14:32 – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”1:18:07 – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?1:19:47 – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?1:25:10 – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?1:26:34 – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury1:31:19 – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?1:33:16 – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos1:35:20 – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?1:36:21 – The king line on El Cap1:40:39 – Future linkups in Yosemite1:42:51 – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie1:43:30 – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience1:46:13 – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners1:48:29 – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?1:48:52 – Big wall pooping stories1:51:16 – Another book?1:52:28 – What Tommy is trying to d
Released:
Oct 19, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

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