118 min listen
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
ratings:
Length:
165 minutes
Released:
Jul 18, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more.*If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Feals!feals.com/NUGGETUse this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestoneNuggets:0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better0:18:39 – Being obsessive0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed0:33:08 – The Bend phase0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment0:52:25 – Quantum leaps0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing gym0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras)1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone)1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso1:11:09 – Tough Strips1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.”1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V101:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos)2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30?2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD)2:14:37 – Doing more training after 302:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift)2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had t
Released:
Jul 18, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health: Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) by The Nugget Climbing Podcast