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EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common

EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast


EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast

ratings:
Length:
113 minutes
Released:
Mar 21, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

Jerry Moffatt is one of my all-time climbing heroes. He is a British legend and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 80s. We talked about his early days, wanting to be a “Crag Rat”, living for free before sponsorship, pushing world standards, writing his book on mental training, and what the top climbers have in common when it comes to their mental game.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10%  off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, and Skyler Maxwell Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jerry-moffattNuggets:0:08:43 – Wanting to be a “crag rat”, and living off of white rice and curry mix0:13:32 – Reading Master or Rock, and climbing every day and bouldering in the evenings0:14:49 – Going to boarding school, and climbing on his parents' brick wall and on the limestone blocks at school0:16:57 – Using talcum powder as “chalk”, and climbing in massive mountaineering boots0:19:14 – No safety instruction0:20:23 – Looking up to Ron Faucet and Pete Livsey0:21:31 – The barn at Eric’s Cafe0:24:00 – Climbing at Tremadog, and learning proper ethics and reclimbing ‘Strawberries’0:27:11 – Climbing in France, and transitioning from yo-yoing to redpointing0:29:07 – Starting to get recognition for climbing, and Jerry’s first trip to the US to climb ‘Psycho’ and ‘Genesis’0:35:08 – A night of free drinks, and surviving off of happy hour food and free bagels0:36:55 – Onsighting ‘Supercrack’, and climbing ‘Psycho’ and ‘Genesis’0:38:36 – Meeting John Bachar, burning people off, and being a rock star0:42:12 – Running cross country and playing rugby, and ditching them for climbing0:43:42 – Some of the biggest milestones in the progression of climbing0:47:32 – Patron question from Chris: What do you see climbers doing today as far as training goes that you wish you had known about?0:50:46 – “You’ve gotta enjoy it”, and always changing things around0:53:30 – Living in a cave at Pentruin, and other dossing accommodations0:57:10 – Hitching to the crag0:59:39 – Climbing ‘Liquid Amber’1:01:17 – Elbow injuries, feeling like he’d never climbing again, and the beginning of climbing competitions1:05:58 – Stepping back from climbing to do other things, gaining financial independence apart from sponsors, traveling to surf, and building the first indoor climbing wall in the UK in 19911:12:01 – Writing Revelations with Neil Grimes, and being interested in sport psychology1:13:56 – Writing Mastermind, and interviewing the top climbers about their mental game1:16:55 – Narrowing your focus, process goals, and confidence1:21:05 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Does Jerry have any tips for maintaining a cool head and dealing with fear of failure when approaching a project?1:23:46 – Getting nervous for climbing competitions, learning to switch it on from Ron Kauk1:25:00 – The book that helped Jerry turn things around with competitions, changing his mindset, and being pessimistically optimistic1:28:55 – What sets the best climbers apart when it comes to their mindset1:31:25 – Using mindset work and visualization in work and everyday life1:32:45 – The recipe analogy1:34:10 – Winning Leads in 1989 (the first indoor climbing competition in Britain), and other favorite days of climbing1:36:38 – “If you are a climber you found a great sport.”1:38:01 – Backing off from being a “try hard”, and trying to be mellow and enjoy things1:39:50 – Breaking his neck surfing, and recovering1:41:48 – What Jerry is up to now, and where to get the book Mastermind1:45:18 – Wrap up1:31:18 – Backing off from being a “try hard”, and trying to be m
Released:
Mar 21, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

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