118 min listen
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
ratings:
Length:
196 minutes
Released:
Oct 10, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hillNuggets:0:06:27 – Lynn’s technique video0:12:58 – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique0:16:47 – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo0:18:53 – Having the vision to free-climb The Nose0:21:01 – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out0:28:07 – Being famous before the internet0:29:48 – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people0:33:33 – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French0:38:01 – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship0:42:33 – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian0:50:24 – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now0:56:22 – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose1:00:33 – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey1:06:11 – Why The Nose was such a special experience1:08:53 – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts1:11:14 – Breathing and screaming1:14:12 – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose1:23:41 – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch1:28:11 – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free1:32:07 – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it1:35:56 – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon1:40:01 – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse1:41:59 – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)1:43:29 – Advice for shorter climbers1:45:53 – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s1:53:14 – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart1:55:58 – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path1:59:07 – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days2:03:09 – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber2:07:56 – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?2:13:33 – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?2:15:23 – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon2:21:59 – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?2:29:07 – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move2:32:20 – Other women Lynn has mentored2:33:51 – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing
Released:
Oct 10, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health: Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) by The Nugget Climbing Podcast