101 min listen
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
ratings:
Length:
45 minutes
Released:
May 25, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbing smarter, what Mikey is grateful for, and his refreshing perspective about COVID. You can find part 1 of our conversation in episode 18. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mikey-schaefer-part-2 Nuggets: 1:31 – Climbing ‘Moonlight Buttress’ in his 20s, 30s, and 40s 4:09 – Moonlight getting easier, wearing out climbs, being mindful of the impact we have on climbs and climbing areas, and Mikey’s advocate “rant” 10:06 – How Mikey thinks about footwear, and being smarter (as well as stronger) 16:27 – Tommy Caldwell as a one-show-size climber, and how Mikey chose his shoes for ‘ Moonlight Buttress’ 18:45 – Compression socks, warmup up in socks and TC Pros, climbing in approach shoes, and developing footwork by climbing in shittier shoes 22:53 – Tinkering with systems, “It’s easier to climb smarter than it is to get stronger”, weighing gear with a gram scale, and measuring the force of different top rope systems 27:18 – “Friends don’t let friends belay”, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system, and leading in blocks 34:56 – Grateful for financial security, Mikey’s grandfather held captive, and a refreshing perspective on COVID 41:01 – Why Mikey feels content with where he’s at, plans to continue moving the spiral upward, and continuing to be a jack of all trades
Released:
May 25, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast