101 min listen
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
ratings:
Length:
84 minutes
Released:
Feb 1, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2 Nuggets: 4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave 10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits 13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box 14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc) 16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system 21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute 22:46 – How Jon structures his training week 27:36 – An example training day, mock comps, and climbing with a weight vest 31:40 – Indoor projecting days, and how Jon structures a six-week training block, and resting 34:24 – Some of the testing Jon did with Steve Maisch 37:14 – Building up your training capacity, why it’s ok to suck some days, and seeing improvement after resting at the end of a training block 39:21 – Budgeting a week to relearn how to climb after getting strong 40:32 – How Jon’s six-week training blocks fit into a year, and the value of a training partner 42:58 – Forced time off, maintaining finger strength, and warming up with a hangboard in addition to climbing 46:14 – Skin 47:38 – Jon’s guidelines for warmup up 50:20 – More about one-arm max hangs, how to progress the load, and where to start out 54:54 – “Don’t go into training half-assed” 55:45 – Hangboard repeaters, and how Jon structures a six-week block 1:00:29 – Feeling like a boxer, and going to the gym to win 1:02:19 – Jon’s thoughts on MoondBoard vs. Tension Board vs. Kilter Board vs. Beastmaker Board 1:04:11 – Jon’s recommendations for my Hueco “training” trip 1:07:39 – Project shopping, the relativity of grades, and the value of throwing yourself at something hard 1:10:33 – Sean Rabatou and the value of projecting with other people 1:12:59 – How Jon’s climbing schedule has changed over the years, and needing more rest days 1:15:02 – FA of ‘King’s Landing’ 1:16:26 – Good food and haircuts 1:17:26 – ‘The Abyss’ film 1:18:23 – Recent and upcoming films from LT11 1:20:01 – Gratitude for family and friends 1:20:48 – What Jon hopes to accomplish with LT11, and with his own climbing
Released:
Feb 1, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast