101 min listen
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
ratings:
Length:
111 minutes
Released:
Jan 18, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current injuries, the steps to becoming a kneebar wizard, projecting tips, hard conversations, and balancing climbing goals with maintaining a healthy relationship. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-heather-weidner Nuggets: 2:41 – How Heather broke her own finger climbing at Shelf Road, and being injured together 5:52 – Counting drinks 9:24 – New Year resolutions, goal setting, and the Green River trip 13:52 – Heather’s climbing origin story, her background in dance, and the choreography of projecting 18:48 – Chris’s climbing origin story, and being introduced to rock climbing and mountains 21:05 – Living in Boulder and maintaining roots in Vegas 21:50 – The art of becoming a kneebar wizard 29:35 – Philosophy of kneebaring, getting better vs. training, and beta tactics 35:06 – Tinkering with beta 38:35 – How Chris breaks down a new project, and training the rests 41:28 – Kneerbar training exercises 44:04 – How Chris broke his pinkie by kneebaring 45:44 – Sourcing kneepads, Send pads, and kneecap tape explanation 49:45 – Heather’s kneebar beta, and why women can handle pain better than men 51:35 – Go-to shoes for kneebars 53:20 – Adam Ondra is making kneebaring cool again 54:37 – Send pads, leg warmers, and man warmers 57:33 – ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ 1:03:18 – How Chris hurt his shoulder 1:04:38 – Balancing climbing together with climbing with other people 1:09:14 – Chris’s passion for climbing (and ticking boxes), and Heather’s love for projecting 1:13:11 – Expectations going into a hard project, and being ok with not doing all of the moves the first day (or several days) 1:16:12 – ‘Stockboy’s Revenge’ 1:18:15 – “Ask Chris what it’s like for him to have Heather outperform him on his project?” 1:19:22 – Heather’s “bullheadedness” in projecting, and focus vs. adaptability 1:21:01 – Hitting rock bottom on ‘China Doll’, and addressing inner demons 1:23:28 – Getting mental coaching from Arno Ilgner, meditation, and therapy 1:25:23 – Heather’s meditation practice, and the flow state of climbing 1:26:53 – Breakdown of ‘China Doll’ 1:30:23 – What Chris learned from ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ 1:32:53 – Heather’s mindset when tying in for a project burn, and how Chris’s projecting philosophy has changed 1:35:57 – Learning to adapt, and the power of letting go 1:37:04 – Why Heather is excited about bouldering 1:38:20 – Gratitude 1:41:17 – Kids and hard conversations 1:45:12 – Another decade of improvement
Released:
Jan 18, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast