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TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently

TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast


TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

ratings:
Length:
74 minutes
Released:
Nov 4, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015

(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)
About Will Anglin
 
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.
He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).
What we talked about:

The importance of strength training
Difference between strength and power
His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
Who should be campusing
Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not

Things We Mentioned

Will's website
Tension Climbing (coming soon)
Will's article on finger strength training
I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com

Discount on ArmAid
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!
 
Training Programs for You

Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.

Please Review Us on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Photo Credit
Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.
Thanks for listening!
 
Released:
Nov 4, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.