I met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious (she studied in the café where I "worked"). And obviously strong as hell.
She won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions during the 2003-2004 season. Over the next six years, Angie stood atop more than ten podiums as a top 3 finisher in bouldering competitions.
She doesn’t just crush inside, though — Angie has been a trailblazer among female climbers on boulders outside, too. Between 2004 and 2010, Payne did first female ascents of 17 V10-V12 boulder problems.
In 2010, after climbing European Human Being (video) V12 and No More Greener Grasses V12, Angie completed The Automator (video), becoming the first woman in the world to climb a confirmed V13. These accomplishments earned her two Climbing Magazine Golden Piton honorable mentions and the 2007 Everest Award in Women’s Bouldering.
Angie graciously sat down with me last summer (2013) to talk about how she got to be such a badass, how she continues to be such a badass after so many years competing, and how her "rivals" - who are also some of her best friends - keep her motivated. I'm lookin' at you, Puccio.
We also talk about...

Being a female in a man's world, and how she avoids the notorious downgrading of her FFAs
How she trains
What she eats
How weight affects her climbing
Her struggle with eating disorders
Her roller coaster relationship with competition climbing
Why she's not a full-time pro climber
The mental blocks she gets with projects and how she overcomes them
Her thoughts on climbing a V14
And lots of other things...
Oh, and I apologize for the temporary outdoor noises in the background intermittently. Recording a podcast outside is nice because of the birds in the background, but NOT good for the noise factor. Duly noted.

Show Links

You can read her full bio here.
Check out her website here.
She also wrote an article about how she trains on TrainingBeta here.
The podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending.

Listen on iTunes

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
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Thanks for listening!