48 min listen
TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm
TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm
ratings:
Length:
58 minutes
Released:
Jun 2, 2014
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
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After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.
Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before that she was living out of her RV, following the good weather to her favorite bouldering areas. She spent a lot of time this winter in Bishop trying The Swarm, a V13/V14, which we talk about in the interview.
I've always been a fan of Alex Johnson, and I remember watching her at The Spot competing when she was just a kid really. Her confidence and poise, as well as her incredible strength, have always impressed me.
What We Talked About
Her biggest accomplishments and biggest failures as a climber
Which training styles have worked for her and which have not
What it was like for her to train with the Euros
How she's training for Vail this year (it's a secret so don't tell anyone)
How her diet affects her climbing (if at all)
Whether or not her hard ascents have been downgraded because she's a female
How she balances being friends and fierce competitors with Angie, Puccio and the other girls
Related Links
Alex's website is www.aj-ontherocks.blogspot.com
Alex on Facebook: www.facebook.com/alexjohnsonclimber
An article in Rock & Ice about Alex's negative experience training in Europe: "Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile"
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Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings
Photo
Portrait of Alex Johnson by Forest Woodward
Thanks for listening!
Released:
Jun 2, 2014
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
TBP 003: Jamie Emerson on Training, Ethics, and Being The Sheriff: I sat down with Jamie Emerson last summer and had a really interesting chat with him. Jamie is, I think, an important voice in the climbing community. As an accomplished and ambitious climber himself, having sent up to V14, he has his finger on the... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast