Discover this podcast and so much more

Podcasts are free to enjoy without a subscription. We also offer ebooks, audiobooks, and so much more for just $11.99/month.

TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d

TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast


TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

ratings:
Length:
71 minutes
Released:
May 14, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Description


About Alex Barrows
I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student at Sheffield University with a hilarious sense of humor. He's also really strong, despite his rigorous school schedule and lack of good weather where he lives.
When I met Alex, he was trying really hard on a 14a for weeks. Then I saw him a couple years later in the Red River Gorge, where I immediately noticed he'd improved dramatically. He was onsighting 13+ and sending 14s like it was his job. Then I heard he sent Era Vella (5.14d in Spain) this spring, '15, and I had to know how he was improving so much.
This interview is an extremely detailed account of his training plan and philosophies, with some charming British humor thrown in there.
What we talked about:

Exactly how and when he trained for Era Vella
How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it
How he stays so psyched to train 6 days a week
What he does to avoid injuries, and whether or not he climbs through them when he has them
All about circuit training
How he finds time and money to project things in different countries, despite being a full-time student
How he reached his sending weight, and whether or not climbers should always be thin

Things We Mentioned

Alex's epic training plan and philosophies: Alex Barrows Training PDF
He credits Tom Randall (of Wide Boyz fame) for a lot of his training knowledge: tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com

Fix Your Own Arms with ArmAid
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here.  You can learn more on their website at ArmAid.com.
 
Training Programs for You

Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.

Please Review Us on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!
Released:
May 14, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.