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TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast


TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

ratings:
Length:
71 minutes
Released:
Feb 18, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!
About Adam Ondra
He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.
He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.
As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.
And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...
Here's what we talked about:

How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
The prospect of climbing 5.15d
His thoughts on diet and body weight

Related Links

Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...

Support The Podcast

Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
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If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.

Listen and Review on iTunes

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Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Photo
Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com
Thanks for listening!
Released:
Feb 18, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.