Discover this podcast and so much more

Podcasts are free to enjoy without a subscription. We also offer ebooks, audiobooks, and so much more for just $11.99/month.

TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods

TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast


TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

ratings:
Length:
77 minutes
Released:
Dec 16, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

 

About Tom Randall
Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible. 
What We Talked About

His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
How he works with clients
Training for crack climbing
Pinky crack drills
Free soloing 3,000 routes
Case study of bouldering client

Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients
Intro to "Jack Daniels"
 
Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.
 
--> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels
Related Links

Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk
Tom Randall on Facebook
His coaching partner, Ollie
Tom Randall on Instagram

Training Programs for You

Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Thanks for listening!
Released:
Dec 16, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.