32 min listen
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods
ratings:
Length:
77 minutes
Released:
Dec 16, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
About Tom Randall
Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.
What We Talked About
His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
How he works with clients
Training for crack climbing
Pinky crack drills
Free soloing 3,000 routes
Case study of bouldering client
Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients
Intro to "Jack Daniels"
Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.
--> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels
Related Links
Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk
Tom Randall on Facebook
His coaching partner, Ollie
Tom Randall on Instagram
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!
Released:
Dec 16, 2015
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
TBP 002: Paige Claassen on Training, Eating, and Body Weight: The TrainingBeta Podcast by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast