87 min listen
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
ratings:
Length:
46 minutes
Released:
Dec 14, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers Shop Athletic Brewing Beer Nuggets: 1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a 5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength) 12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot” 16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session 20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength) 21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session 25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength 28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge 33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’ 34:30 – Highballs 37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in” 42:07 – Outro
Released:
Dec 14, 2020
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon: William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meaningful stories and doing work that matters, Will’s daily routines, rules for life, photo advice, and three things he is grateful for. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast