Gold Fingers: Presenting the Cuisine of Ebony

By George Cherry

Ebony cuisine is one of the most delectable, exciting, satisfying and diverse cuisines in the world. It is truly a product of its heritage with a history influenced from all the corners of the world. The cuisine is particularly influenced by West African slaves who were brought to the Caribbean and America. They brought a vast amount of recipes, spices, seeds, plants and techniques with them. This was the beginning and the foundation of their Epicurean culture called Soul Food, Southern Food and Creole Food. The ingredients used are unique and the style is perfect for any occasion. Soul Food has swept a wide path in the world and has gained in popularity.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Xlibris US
• Release date: Oct 16, 2015
• ISBN: 9781514402825

George Cherry

I came to America in 1984 from St. Lucia, a strikingly beautiful island in the Caribbean. St. Lucia is part of the Windward Islands. It is an English and French Creole speaking island with a land area of 238 square miles and a population of 150,000 people. When I was working in a popular restaurant in St. Lucia, locals and tourists would love to come there to eat - they said I made them ‘happy’. Late at night, after the dinner was done, we turned the dining room into a dance floor. We moved all the tables and chairs out of the way and turned the music up. People from nearby hotels and guesthouses would come and join the crowd. They prompted me to stay late into the evening to prepare ‘Roit’ and other local favorites. At times I worked 15 hours a day just to make people happy. What I loved about this job was that every day I worked I was able to put together a new recipe and create a new dish. If I worked 365 days a year, I created 365 new recipes. Virtually every one of them was a success, people loved them. I really love cooking and really care about what I serve. When I add up how many times a day, a week, a month and a year I make people happy, it’s a lot! I want to make sure that each and every time I bring people satisfaction and joy.

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EBONY CUISINE ORIGINS

Ebony cuisine is one of the most delectable, exciting, satisfying, and diverse cuisines in the world. It is truly a product of its heritage with a history of influence from all corners of the world. The cuisine is particularly influenced by West African slaves who were brought to the Caribbean and America. They brought a vast amount of recipes, spices, seeds, plants, and techniques with them. This was the beginning and foundation of their Epicurean culture called soul food, Southern food, and Creole food. The ingredients used are unique, and the style is perfect for any occasion. Soul food has swept a wide path in the world and has gained popularity.

African American cuisine was ostensibly started when one of the first groups of Africans arrived in Jamestown, Virginia, in the early 1600s. Most of these people were former fishermen, farmers, cattle raisers, and hunters forcibly taken from their homes and families and cruelly placed into slavery. They introduced several fruits, vegetables, and herbs to America, such as watermelon, peas, and many more. This cookbook will give you the best sample of all its styles and techniques, from both soul food and island cuisine.

Ebony has a rich culture and history, and it is very much alive today and blended with all sorts of natural beauty. The dishes are flavored with fresh herbs and richly flavored meats, poultry, seafood, and vegetables. Some are based on culture and ideal for special occasions or when spending time with family and friends.

Ebony cooking, by name, is essentially of a new generation but based on strong tradition. It has been brought into the mainstream with good public reception. The food has been enhanced over the years, as economic wealth has become more accessible to the people, but remains largely fundamental with many types of basic foods that were introduced during those early days of slavery.

The island’s history, heritage, culture, and people have come from all parts of the world. With so much influence from all over the globe, it is no wonder that the food is superb and marvelous. Influences from the ethnic groups that make up the Caribbean, such as Spanish, British, Indian, African, Portuguese, French, Chinese, and Dutch are emphasized in the cooking. One cannot help being fascinated with the food of the Caribbean people.

The vegetable white yam was introduced from West Africa. Let’s consider what has been done with it. For example, when it is planted and cultivated in Africa, it is often frightening-looking and at times extremely large. Africans call it the potato of Africa. There has never been a vegetable quite like it anywhere else in the world. If you really want to see the real yam, the beauty and the glory of it, the best place is in the rural West African market. We produce some of them in the islands, but not quite like those. Some of the ones I see in the islands are proudly carried on a housewife’s head; surely it’s large enough to satisfy the needs of an entire family.

Traditional African ways of cooking food are most interesting. They have some of the best recipes, spices, and herbs with which to enhance any kind of food. The best way of eating a white yam is to peel and boil it soft, and then pound it into a doughy paste, which has a consistency much like a mashed potato. They call it fufu and use it as an accompaniment to any meat entrée. Historically, young girls were taught to prepare such a laborious traditional dish. Other vegetables such as plantains, cassavas, and breadfruit are prepared in a similar fashion and substituted for the yams. These vegetables may also be prepared as croquettes and then deep-fried nice and crisp in oil or prepared and served as chips. Fufu goes especially well with grilled barbequed meats.

God bless those who have kept the traditional foods and recipes going. All the variety of seeds, plants, spices, and vegetables that we are using today have thereby been maintained.

As another example, let’s consider the banana. Some believe the fruit originated in Southeast Asia and was brought to Africa. The fruit probably migrated to Jamaica through slavery from West Africa. It was well cultivated, becoming verdant valleys of green in the tropical islands.

Captain Lorenzo Dow Baker became the first successful merchant seaman to discover this amazing fruit and brought it from Jamaica to America in June of 1870. His venture made a very large profit. He returned to Jamaica and began shipping it on a regular basis, making it an international business. He went on to cofound the United Fruit Company.

Let’s take plantain, a member of the banana family, as another example. When cooked, it is unique and tasty. You can be very creative with it by making chips, hot cereal, cake, deep-fried fufu, and much more. It can be an excellent accompaniment to any hot entrée as well.

I was very much surprised to find out that a high percentage of African Americans don’t know about the food they eat and its history. They have no idea how it came about and how it became a part of their lives. The food we eat and the techniques we use are elements of the creation of our ethnic foundation. I think it is important to know this—how we became a great people.

BEHIND THE STOVE

It always pleases me when I walk into the kitchen and receive great smiles and hugs. It gives me inspiration to make others feel the same way I do. Throughout the years, I have developed a foundation of happiness through the act of preparing and sharing delicious, healthy food. Simply put, people want to eat good food, and I want to consistently make that happen. I maintain a connection with people and the meals that I serve them. I always tell them that a well-prepared meal is not something that just walks onto a plate. It takes well-formulated recipes, ingredients, and expertise to make someone say, This tastes great!

I believe that when the world started, God put Adam and Eve into this bounteous garden and told them that of everything in the garden, save one, you may eat. Enjoy this nature, be happy, and live well through my love. That belief has been very special to me over the past few years as I started to work on this book. Everyone should think about the food they eat and know that it plays a huge part in who and what you are.

My goal is simply to educate others to prepare my magical cuisine by bringing it within reach of those who love to cook. I am passionate about excellence in the things that I do. I hope that through this book my passion will rub off on my readers and that this style of cooking will live on through new devotees.

My achievements as a chef have certified my skills of triumph over the very spirit of the ingredients used in my style of cooking, which are marked by flavors and tastes that are both genuine and unique. I am looking forward to hearing from you, my friends and fellow food aficionados. Please share with me the things that you most enjoyed about this cuisine. Eat healthy; eat well!

SOUP

In every country, region, or island in the world, soup has been part of their dining experience. It can be served either warm or cold and generally as the first course with bread or other sides. However, there are areas where certain soups are preferred throughout the day. As an example, some prefer to serve a cream soup during the daytime and a broth at evening time. This is usually based on tradition. In many countries, it is served as the main course. The Haitian bouillon soup can be divided into two basic groups. One is a clear soup or consommé. I remember competing with other island chefs, just for bragging rights, as to who could make the best consommé soup. It takes great skill to make such a soup both clear and tasty. The second is a thick soup which is pureed or creamed. The puree thickens with the vegetable or starch, whereas the cream thickens with a roux or a light cream sauce. A hearty soup, such as a fish soup, is what most of the people of the Caribbean grew up on and is still one of the most popular in the Caribbean cuisine.

FISH SOUP

Fish soup is a famous dish in the Caribbean that is loved by locals and visitors alike. It can be prepared in a variety of ways. You can boil the fish in liquid until the flavors are extracted, creating a broth. Fish trimmings are used to prepare this soup base, such as the head, bones, skin, and fins. Sauté the fish and then add water, vegetables, and salt. After these ingredients are boiled, you must allow it to settle. The broth is then strained and retained.

In another variety, the fish head is washed, cleaned, and then cut into pieces. The pieces are sautéed with vegetables, herbs, and spices. Water is added with vegetables, such as banana, yam, plantain, dasheen, and so on. When it is cooked, it is served as a complete meal similar to a stew. Fish head soup is considered a delicacy in Caribbean cooking. The fish head is the most flavorful part of the fish and also contains lots of meat. Fish head soup dates back centuries. It is an absolutely wonderful dish that can be prepared with nuances each time.

This is truly a Caribbean dish with great flavor that is perfect for a main entrée.

1. Wash fish under running water. Remove all blood and scale. Set aside.

2. In a large stockpot on high heat with butter, sauté the onions, carrot, and garlic until soft and translucent for 6 minutes.

3. Add flour and stir to incorporate, pour water, and continue to stir until creamy. Add all remaining ingredients, except fish, tomato, and parsley. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat for 7 minutes.

4. Add tomato and fish. Let cook for an additional 3 minutes.

5. Remove from heat, transfer to a bowl, and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately.

Yield 4 servings

PUMPKIN AND VEGETABLE SOUP

Pumpkin soups have a unique Caribbean history, a celebration of Haitian Independence. On January 1, 1804, Haitians worked together to create an exclusive soup to observe their independence from the French colonialists. Until that time, the French conquerors believed that the blacks under their rule could never work mutually to create anything. Today, the traditional pumpkin soup known as soup joumou is made and served to commemorate their fight for freedom. While under French colonial rule, Haitians were limited to eating a bland bread soup. They were not permitted to eat such an overly elaborate meal of pumpkin, beef stock, and other vegetables. This unique soup was created as a representation of unity in the face of adversity. It was served to everyone at the first independence celebration, and Haitians continue this tradition today. Every year Haitians from everywhere cook soup joumou and serve it to their families and friends. Any meat of your choice can be added as it suites you. Pumpkin soup tastes great.

This lovely soup can be used as a main dish anytime of the day.

1. Prepare pumpkin. Wash the outside of the pumpkin with water and pat dry with paper towels. Set on a cutting board.

2. Using a chef’s knife, cut at a 45-degree angle into the top of the pumpkin approximately 2 inches from the stem. Cut a circle around the stem all the way through the flesh of the pumpkin. Remove the cut piece from the pumpkin and discard.

3. Cut the pumpkin in half using the chef’s knife. Scoop out the seeds and pulp from the flesh of each pumpkin half using a large serving spoon.

4. Cut the pumpkin halves into slices about 2 inches wide at the widest part.

5. Lay a pumpkin slice flesh side down on the cutting board and center the blade of the chef’s knife where the shell meets the flesh.

6. Press the knife downward between the shell and the flesh of the pumpkin strip by strip.

7. Continue the downward cutting motion until all the skin is removed.

8. Prepare yams. Using a sharp knife, cut the top and bottom of the yam and discard. (Sometimes yams can be too long and might need to be cut into pieces.) Keep the yam upright on board. Start from the top, place the center of the knife between the skin and the flesh of the yams, and drive the knife in a downward motion, removing the skin strip by strip until all the skin is removed. Cut each piece about 3 inches thick. Wash but avoid touching your skin. Keep in water (to avoid turning color, add a few drops of lemon juice).

9. Prepare the chayote. Cut the chayote along the longest side. Wait a few minutes; some of the milky white substance will come out and set. Wash the chayote thoroughly in cold running water, washing away all the white substance. Hold half of the chayote in your hand flesh facedown. Using a peeler in the other hand, drive the peeler up and down until all the skin is removed. Core the chayote and slice into about 8 pieces. Set aside.

10. In a medium pot on medium heat with butter, sauté the garlic, pumpkin, celery, thyme, and onion for 2 to 3 minutes.

11. Add chicken stock, carrot, yams, christophine, plantain, and yam. Cover and let cook until tender.

12. Add the remaining ingredients and taste for additional salt; continue to cook for 7 minutes.

13. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.

Yield 4 servings

CREAM OF CHAYOTE WITH CHICKEN SOUP

Chayote is also known as christophine, mirliton, and alligator pear (other names are used based on country or region of origin). It is an edible plant that belongs to the gourd family Cucurbitaceae along with melons, cucumbers, and squash. It is eaten in both raw and cooked forms. When cooked, it tastes similar to summer squash. It is generally cooked al dente to retain the crisp texture. Raw chayote is used in salads but is not exciting because of its fairly bland taste. Whether raw or cooked, chayote is a good source of amino acids and vitamin C. As a caution, when I am preparing chayote to make soup or to use it as a vegetable, I find it’s a bit rough on my skin. It secretes a milky white substance that can prove an irritant to your skin. I always advise people to wear gloves when handling chayote.

This is a great soup that can be used for any occasion and at any time of the year.

1. Prepare the chayote. Cut the chayote along the longest side. Wait a few minutes; some of the milky white substance will come out and set. Wash the chayote thoroughly in cold running water, washing away all the white substance. Hold half of the chayote in your hand, flesh facedown. Using a peeler in the other hand, drive the peeler up and down until all the skin is removed. Core the chayote and slice into about 8 pieces. Set aside.

2. Prepare the leek. Cut the leek to the root. Remove the green part. Split in half. Wash under running water. Remove all dirt and sand. Place on a cutting board and slice fine. Set aside in a bowl with onions, garlic, and thyme.

3. Combine the leek, onions, chicken, thyme, and garlic in a large pot on medium heat with butter. Sauté until tender for about 3 to 4 minutes. Add stock and chayote. Cover and simmer until tender.

4. Pour in a blender and blend. Pour back into the pot on place on low heat. Add all remaining ingredients.

5. Taste for additional seasoning.

6. Ladle soup in a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Yield 2 servings

PUMPKIN WITH CRAB AND DUMPLINGS SOUP

Pumpkin soup is a dish served all around the globe in a variety of ways based on the country of origin. The soup is sometimes made from a puree of pumpkin created after it is peeled and cooked. It is made by combining the meat of a blended pumpkin with broth or stock. It is usually served hot. Pumpkin is a very popular item in the United States, especially on Thanksgiving Day. Pumpkin soup was a staple for the prisoners of war in North Vietnamese prison camps during the Vietnam War. It is also a very popular item in the West Indies and used in a variety of ways. It is stewed, boiled, and baked. It is also used in both soups and desserts.

This is a great recipe which has a Caribbean flavor and can be further enhanced by adding a variety of