Steven's Blog: Mar '22

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast

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Steven's Blog: Mar '22

FromThe Nugget Climbing Podcast

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Length:

13 minutes

Released:

Apr 23, 2022

Format:

Podcast episode

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"Recaps" are now available for Patrons!In this Recap episode, Steven shares a recap of his final weeks in Hueco, and his first two weeks trying a 14a in Utah.Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more Recap episodes! Plus, it helps out the show! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCheck out the "Announcing Reflections and Recaps" episode to learn more!

Released:

Apr 23, 2022

Format:

Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 1M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

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EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon: William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meaningful stories and doing work that matters, Will’s daily routines, rules for life, photo advice, and three things he is grateful for. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
87 min listen
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber: Tyson Schoene has been the head coach of the Vertical World Climbing Team in Seattle, WA for nearly 20 years, and has shaped some of the best climbers in the world including Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, and Quinn Mason. We talked about Tyson’s path to coaching, how he and his team build world-class athletes, the value of competition, climbing team as a family, and drills all of us can practice. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
143 min listen
EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad): Lizzy VanPatten is a rock climber and the founder of She Moves Mountains, a guiding company with the mission of helping women realize their strength through rock climbing. We talked about Lizzy’s brief music career, building a business, breaking into 5.12 trad, assessing fear, and her gratitude practice. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
93 min listen
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career: Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses the treadwall, replicas, and the fingerboard, his two-part climbing career, favorite articles he’s written, and the crossover between philosophy and climbing. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
100 min listen
EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken: Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pakistan, lessons from mentors, favorite post-expedition foods, and how to build an anchor in f***ed up snow. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
94 min listen
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health: Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
118 min listen
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System: This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbing smarter, what Mikey is grateful for, and a refreshing perspective about COVID. You can find part 1 of our conversation in episode 18. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
45 min listen
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love: Tara Kerzhner is an award-winning photographer, cinematographer, and accomplished rock climber. We talked about being creative while stuck at home, the importance of shooting what you love, balancing her work with art and climbing, becoming a more powerful climber, and telling stories through film. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
75 min listen
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration: Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for fuel, how he trains for big solos and linkups, some of his most memorable climbs, long johns vs. lycra, and the magic of inspiration. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
105 min listen
EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do: Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me using ART. We talked about the root cause and how overly tight muscles can become an injury, how Mark thinks about overuse injuries and his tips to avoid them, and two stretches every climber should do. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
98 min listen
EP 08: Kristin Yurdin — Building a Restaurant, Redpointing 5.14a at age 42, and Advice for Shorter Climbers: Kristin Yurdin is a restaurant owner and chef who has balanced a successful career with hard climbing and genuine enjoyment of life. She and her husband Ian opened The Terrebonne Depot, a very successful restaurant near Smith Rock. We talked about her transition from podiatric surgeon to restaurant owner, about her climbing progression and training, and about redpointing her first 5.14a at 42-years-old. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
75 min listen
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief: Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ‘City Park’ during her residency, some of her biggest challenges, differences between men and women, dating your climbing partner, and the importance of self-belief. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
118 min listen
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid: Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders. We talked about some of Mikey’s most meaningful first ascents, experiences on Liberty Bell, balancing risk and reward, becoming a jack of all trades, and building his pyramid. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
114 min listen
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training: Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent freak accident and broken finger, the injury process, trad climbing tips, pushing through fear vs. listening to fear, and a case for more climbing/less training. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
58 min listen
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely: Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned from 10+ years of coaching, his training philosophy, onsighting tips, go-to climbing shoes, surfing, and the best breakfast he’s ever had. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
99 min listen
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project: Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current training methods, how he mixes in climbing with training, tactics for quick redpointing, a new direction for his climbing, and The Fins project. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
118 min listen
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers: Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked about the film Pretty Strong, her training and how she balances the many disciplines of climbing, and nutrition recommendations for climbers. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
95 min listen
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy: Drew Ruana is a 20-year-old boulderer, sport climber, and competition climber who is quickly becoming one of the best rock climbers in the world. We talked about climbing ‘Sleepwalker’ (his first V16), the significance of skin and conditions and tactics for optimizing them, his current training philosophy, transitioning from competitions to outdoor climbing, and his career and climbing goals. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
94 min listen
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream: Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
101 min listen
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser): This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t do, about the biggest difference between Adam Ondra and everyone else, about Ethan’s projects in Northern California, and about my recent projects in Ten Sleep. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 51:13. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
19 min listen
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love: Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experience with chronic grief, the gift of heartbreak, discovering a new depth of love, projecting highballs, and the coolest rock climbing move he has ever done. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
122 min listen
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong: Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmup routine, starting a climbing gym near the Red River Gorge, coaching in China, self-talk for confidence, and her most recent 5.14a. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
110 min listen
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets: Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconceptions about deadlifting, maintenance strength training, Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol, why climbing is important, and keeping things in perspective. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
81 min listen
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life: Chad Andrews is the maker of the Clipping Chains blog—a resource to help climbers navigate personal finance and move towards financial independence. We talked about reaching retirement at age 35, simple steps to reduce your cost of living, why financial strength equals freedom, the joy of building a craft, and pursuing your best life. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
113 min listen
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index: Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice onsighting skills in the climbing gym, establishing the first 5.14 at Index, WA, and the importance of following the psych. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
84 min listen
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser): This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Brittany Goris. We talked about her season in Vedauwoo and some of the top offwidth climbing techniques she learned, about onsighting her first 5.13 trad route in Indian Creek, about how she approaches gear selection and placement for hard splitter projects and onsight attempts, and about her growing finger sizes. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:50. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
9 min listen
EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower: Roger Volkmann is a retired Orthopedic Surgeon and a lifelong climber. Roger suffered a severe stroke in 2010 at age 55 and was not expected to walk again. Through sheer grit and determination, he managed not only to walk again but to climb. We talked about his stroke, his five principles of life, climbing in the Midwest as a kid, and his three attempts to summit Devils Tower after the stroke. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
93 min listen
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity: Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin for different rock types, how to grow a business while keeping things simple, and the connection between greatness and insanity. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
115 min listen
Merry Christmas!: In this episode, Steven thanks listeners for an amazing year and for supporting the podcast. He also shares some Christmas karaoke that he recorded in his van... Feedback Form: thenuggetclimbing.com/feedback Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
5 min listen
EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet: Natasha Barnes is a former professional climber, a national powerlifting champion, and a licensed chiropractor who specializes in strength training and rehabilitation for rock climbers. We talked about gaining weight to climb harder, calorie balance, common misconceptions about strength training, on and off seasons, tissue capacity, and rehabbing finger injuries. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
119 min listen

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EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in our first episode: EP 207: Paul Houghoughi by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
136 min listen
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture: Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
16 min listen
EP 221: Keenan Takahashi — ‘The Gold Standard’, Learning From Limit Moves, and the Origin Story of ANTIGRAV: Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I’ve wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
156 min listen
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating: Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
128 min listen
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy: Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
152 min listen
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11: Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! You can learn more about Mat at matwrightcoaching.com by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
91 min listen
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist): Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
120 min listen
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training: This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training. *Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:54:13. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Martin's Original Episode: EP 109: Martin Keller by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
63 min listen
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out: Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
160 min listen
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans: Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
137 min listen
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach): Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
120 min listen
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects: Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
109 min listen
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films: Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
96 min listen
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
128 min listen
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance: Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
98 min listen
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy: Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
118 min listen
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering: Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
99 min listen
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!: Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more! Will’s Original Episode: EP 166: Will Bosi by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
42 min listen
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio): Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
105 min listen
EP 206: Replicating ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns: Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
128 min listen
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Bringing Climbing to Jamaica: Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more! Kai's Original Episode: EP 55: Kai Lightner by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
59 min listen
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta: Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
197 min listen
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith: Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
165 min listen
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’: Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
99 min listen
Follow-Up: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training: Jon Cardwell is back for a Follow-Up! We talked about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more! Jon's Original Episode: EP 50: Jon Cardwell by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
69 min listen
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts: Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
164 min listen
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids: James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews. by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
206 min listen
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends: Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
114 min listen
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing: Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode! by The Nugget Climbing Podcast
182 min listen

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