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TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast


TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

ratings:
Length:
88 minutes
Released:
Mar 2, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients’ and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning. This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much I’ve been missing in my climbing training all these years. There’s SO MUCH more I could’ve been doing this whole time to make improvements where hangboarding or other strength training just can’t help. We go over in depth how Alex first analyzes her clients’ technique, skills, overall usage of their bodies, and tactics. She describes how she quantifies everything to make it less nebulous and more objective, and then creates drills to see objective improvements going forward. We then talk about 7 experiences Alex has had while climbing outside that have led her to change her tactics, improve her skills, and be able to practice all of it further in the gym and outdoors. I really hope you listen to this because whether you’re a 5.8 or a 5.14 climber, you will likely learn something and maybe even be inspired like I am to start incorporating this stuff into your own routines.   Episode Details How training actually held her back from climbing well in the beginning Her repeating climbs until they feel “good” has helped her How Alex assesses skills and technique in clients Key things to focus on with your feet, hips, arms, and hands Why practicing basics is so important How much of your climbing should be spent trying hard vs. gaining mastery How climbing in Font drastically improved her footwork and overall climbing ability How resting less can help you send hard routes How she gets herself to climb faster while still having good technique How being injured has actually expanded her skill set How to cultivate using momentum instead of raw strength/power   Show Links Do Alex’s Workshop on Skill Building Work with Alex as your coach Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.            
Released:
Mar 2, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.