The Rough Guide to Australia (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

This practical travel guide to Australia features detailed factual travel tips and points-of-interest structured lists of all iconic must-see sights as well as some off-the-beaten-track treasures. Our itinerary suggestions and expert author picks of things to see and do will make it a perfect companion both, ahead of your trip and on the ground. This Australia guide book is packed full of details on how to get there and around, pre-departure information and top time-saving tips, including a visual list of things not to miss. Our colour-coded maps make Australia easier to navigate while you're there. This guide book to Australia has been fully updated post-COVID-19.

The Rough Guide to AUSTRALIA covers: Sydney and around; New South Wales and the ACT; Coastal Queensland; Outback Queensland; Northern Territory; Western Australia; South Australia; Melbourne and around; Victoria; Tasmania

Inside this Australia travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences for every kind of trip to Australia, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Uluru to family activities in child-friendly places, like Atherton Tablelands or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Sydney Harbour.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Australia entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Carefully planned routes covering the best of Australia give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter of this Australia travel guide includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for exploring the giant dunes and freshwater lakes or surfing.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Melbourne, Bondi Beach, Victoria and Tasmania's best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to Australia, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, this Australia guide book will help you find the best places, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter features fascinating insights into Australia, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Mitchell Falls and the spectacular Manly Beach.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Sydney, Queensland and many more locations in Australia, reduce the need to go online.

USER-FRIENDLY LAYOUT
With helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Mar 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781839059117

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Australia

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Health

Food and drink

Festivals and sporting events

Sports and outdoor activities

Travelling with children

Working in Australia

LGBTQ+ travellers

Travel essentials

Sydney and around

Circular Quay

The Rocks

Central Business District (CBD)

Haymarket

The Domain

Darling Harbour and around

The inner east

The inner west

The Harbour

Ocean beaches

Botany Bay

Around Sydney

New South Wales and the ACT

Canberra

Namadgi National Park

The south coast

The Snowy Mountains

The north coast

Lord Howe Island

Norfolk Island

The central west

The Hume Highway and the Riverina

The New England Plateau

The northwest

Back O’Bourke: the Outback

Coastal Queensland

Brisbane

Moreton Bay Islands

The Gold Coast

The Gold Coast Hinterland

The Sunshine Coast

The Fraser Coast

The Southern Reef

Rockhampton

The Capricorn Coast

Mackay and around

Airlie Beach and around

The Whitsunday Islands

Bowen

Ayr and around

Townsville

Magnetic Island

North of Townsville

Cairns

The Reef off Cairns

Cairns’ Northern Beaches

The Atherton Tablelands

Port Douglas

The Daintree

The Cape York Peninsula and Torres Strait Islands

Outback Queensland

Brisbane to Cooper Creek and Birdsville

Rockhampton to Winton

Townsville to the Territory

The Gulf of Carpentaria

Northern Territory

Darwin and around

Kakadu National Park

Arnhem Land

Along the Stuart Highway

Katherine and around

The Victoria Highway to Western Australia

South to Alice Springs

Alice Springs and around

The MacDonnell Ranges

South to Kings Canyon and Uluru

Uluru and around

Western Australia

Perth

Around Perth

The Southwest

Albany and around

Esperance and around

The Eastern Goldfields

The Eyre Highway to South Australia

The Batavia Coast

The Coral Coast

The Central Midlands – inland to the Pilbara

The Kimberley

South Australia

Adelaide

Around Adelaide

Kangaroo Island

The Southeast

The Riverland

The mid-north

Port Augusta

The west

The Stuart Highway: Woomera and beyond

The Flinders Ranges and northeast

The far north: Marree and beyond

Melbourne and around

Central Melbourne

North of the centre

South of the centre

West of the centre

East of the centre

Mornington Peninsula

French Island

Phillip Island

Yarra Valley and the Dandenongs

Geelong and the Bellarine Peninsula

Victoria

The Great Ocean Road

Central Victoria: the Goldfields

Western Victoria

The Murray region

Gippsland

The northeast

Tasmania

Hobart

Around Hobart

The far south

The Tasman Peninsula

The Midland Highway

The east coast

Launceston and around

Deloraine and around

The northwest coast

Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park

The west

Southwest National Park

Contexts

History

Australia’s First Nations peoples

Flora and fauna

Australian film

Books

Australian English

Small print

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Introduction to Australia

More than most other countries, Australia seizes the imagination. For many visitors, its name is synonymous with endless summers where the living is easy. This is where the adventures are as vast as the horizons, and the jokes flow as freely as the beer – a country of can-do spirit and laidback friendliness. No wonder Australians call theirs the Lucky Country.

Every aspect of Australian life and culture, whether its matey attitudes or its truly great outdoors, is a product of the country’s scale and population – or lack of it. Australia rivals the USA in size, but is home to only 24 million people, giving it one of the lowest population densities on earth. The energy of its contemporary culture is in contrast to a landscape that is ancient and often looks it: much of central and western Australia – the bulk of the country – is overwhelmingly arid and flat. In contrast, its cities, most founded as recently as the mid-nineteenth century, burst with a vibrant, youthful energy.

Outback Queensland, the vast area stretching west of the touristed coast, swerves off the well-trodden trail and slides into the country’s epic interior. On the far side of the Great Dividing Range, empty plains sculpted by cinnamon-red earth, deserted gorges and bizarre geological features comprise a unique ecology that is home to the oldest surviving human culture.

This harsh interior has forced Australia to become a coastal country. Most of the population lives within 20km of the ocean, the majority occupying a suburban, southeastern arc that sweeps from southern Queensland to Adelaide. Urban Australians celebrate the values of material self-improvement through hard work and hard play, with an easy-going vitality that visitors, especially Europeans, often find refreshingly hedonistic. A sunny climate also contributes to this exuberance, with an outdoor life in which a thriving beach culture and the congenial backyard barbie are central.

Although visitors might eventually find this low-key, suburban lifestyle rather prosaic, there are opportunities – particularly in the Northern Territory – to experience the culture of First Nations through visiting ancient art sites, taking tours and, less easily, making personal contact. Many First Nations peoples – especially in central Australia – have managed to maintain a traditional lifestyle (albeit with modern amenities), speaking their own languages and living by their own laws. Conversely, many First Nations peoples in cities and country towns experience racism, poverty and lack of meaningful employment opportunities. There’s still a long way to go before Black and white people in Australia can exist on genuinely equal terms.

Fact file

With an area of just over 7.5 million square kilometres, Australia is the sixth-largest country in the world.

Australia’s population is estimated at just over 26 million, of whom some 85 percent live in urban areas. About 57 percent are of European ancestry, 34 percent Oceanian, three percent First Nations, and around 17 percent of Asian origin.

Much of Australia is arid and flat. One-third is desert and another third steppe or semi-desert. Only six percent of the country rises above 600m in elevation, and its tallest peak, Mount Kosciuszko, is just 2228m high.

Australia’s main exports are minerals, metals, fossil fuels, cotton, wool, wine and beef, and its most important trading partners are China, Japan, the EU, South Korea and the USA.

At 5614km the dingo fence is the longest of its kind in the world, stretching from Jimbour to the cliffs of the Nullarbor Plain. It’s around twice the length of the Great Wall of China.

Australia ranks proudly first in the Human Development Index, which measures a country’s progress by its life expectancy, education and standard of living.

Around 20 percent of Australians are descended from convicts.

Where to go

For visitors, deciding where to go can mean juggling distance, money and time. You could spend months driving around the Outback, exploring the national parks, or hanging out at beaches; or you could take an all-in, two-week Sydney, Reef and Rock package, encompassing Australia’s outstanding trinity of must-sees.

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Mitchell Falls

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Both options provide thoroughly Australian experiences, but either will leave you with a feeling of having merely scraped the surface of this vast country. The two big natural attractions are the 2000km-long Great Barrier Reef off the Queensland coast, with its complex of islands and underwater splendour, and the brooding monolith of Uluru (Ayers Rock), in the Northern Territory’s Red Centre. You should certainly try to see them, although exploration of other parts of the country will bring you into contact with more subtle, but equally rewarding, sights and opportunities.

The cities are surprisingly cosmopolitan: waves of postwar immigration from southern Europe and, more recently, Southeast Asia, have done much to erode Australia’s Anglocentrism. Each Australian state has a capital stamped with its own personality, and nowhere is this more apparent than in New South Wales, where glamorous Sydney has the iconic landmarks of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. Elsewhere, the sophisticated café society of Melbourne (Victoria) contrasts with the lively social scene in Brisbane (Queensland). Adelaide, in South Australia, is smaller and has an old-fashioned charm, while Perth, in Western Australia, camouflages its isolation with a leisure-oriented urbanity. In Hobart, the capital of Tasmania, you’ll encounter a relaxed small city with a distinct maritime feel. The purpose-built administrative centre of Canberra, in the Australian Capital Territory, often fails to grip visitors, but Darwin’s continuing regeneration enlivens an exploration of the distinctive Territory.

Aboriginal art

Aboriginal art has entered galleries around the world since the first canvas dot paintings of the central deserts emerged in the 1970s. Though seemingly abstract, early canvases are said to replicate ceremonial sand paintings – temporary maps fleetingly revealed to depict sacred knowledge. In the tropics, figurative bark and cave paintings are less enigmatic but much older, though until recently they were ceremonially repainted. The unusual X-ray style found in the Top End details the internal structure of animals.

Away from the suburbs, with their vast shopping malls and quarter-acre residential blocks, is the transitional bush, and beyond that the wilderness of the Outback – the quintessential Australian environment. Protected from the arid interior, the east coast has the pick of the country’s greenery and scenery, from the north’s tropical rainforests and the Great Barrier Reef to the surf-lined beaches further south. The east coast is backed by the Great Dividing Range, which steadily decreases in elevation as it extends from Mount Kosciuszko (2228m) in New South Wales north into tropical Queensland. Though often overlooked, Tasmania is worth the trip across the Bass Strait: you’ll be rewarded with vast tracts of temperate wilderness and a wealth of scenery, from jagged alpine mountains to almost English bucolic villages.

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Hiking route, Tasmania

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When to go

Australia’s climate has become less predictable in recent times, with phenomena such as the cyclic El Niño effect probably part of a long-term pattern. As well as record-breaking heatwaves, there have been widespread seasonal floods and numerous huge bushfires in recent years. With freak weather increasingly becoming a misnomer, some climate scientists suggest that storm clouds are gathering over the Lucky Country.

Visitors from the northern hemisphere should remember that, as early colonials observed, in Australia nature is horribly reversed: when it’s winter or summer in the northern hemisphere, the opposite season prevails down under, a principle that becomes harder to apply to the transitional seasons of spring and autumn. To confuse things further, the four seasons only really exist in the southern half of the country, outside of the tropics. Here, you’ll find reliably warm summers at the coast with regular, but brief, heatwaves nudging beyond 40°C. Head inland, and the temperatures rise further. Winters, on the other hand, can be miserable, particularly in Victoria, where the short days add to the gloom – many visitors are surprised that the state, along with New South Wales, ACT and Tasmania, has a ski season. Tasmania is cooler year-round: while weather in the highlands is unpredictable at all times, summer is a reliable time to explore the island’s outdoor attractions.

A rich heritage

Australia glories in twenty Unesco World Heritage Sites. A smattering of these protected treasures are cultural, such as the prison sites at Port Arthur in Tasmania (see page 635), the complex Budj Bim aquaculture system developed by the Gunditjmara people in southern Australia, and the gorgeous arcs of Sydney Opera House (see page 85). But in this spectacular and richly varied country, the majority of the Unesco marvels are natural ones. There’s the imperilled Great Barrier Reef (see page 267), which shelters endangered dugong and large green turtles; the emerald-green volcanic craters of the Gondwana rainforests (see page 672); the dreamy Blue Mountains (see page 137); Lord Howe Island group and its bird colonies (see page 192); the beehive-shaped sandstone cones of the Purnululu National Park (see page 457); and much, much more. Up in the Northern Territory, Kakadu National Park (see page 367) is listed both for cultural and natural significance: among its tidal flats, lowlands and plateaux is a wealth of rare and endemic species and dazzling First Nations rock art.

In the coastal tropics, weather basically falls into two seasons. The best time to visit is during the hot and cloudless Dry (from April to November), with moderate coastal humidity maintaining a pleasant temperature day and night and cooler nights inland. In contrast, the Wet – particularly the Build Up in November or December before the rains commence – can be very uncomfortable, with stifling, near-total humidity. As storm clouds gather, rising temperatures, humidity and tension can provoke irrational behaviour in the psychologically unacclimatized – something known as going troppo. Nevertheless, the mid-Wet’s daily downpours and enervating mugginess can be quite intoxicating, compelling a hyper-relaxed inactivity for which these regions are known; furthermore, the countryside – if you can reach it – looks its best at this time.

Australia’s interior is an arid semi-desert with very little rain, high summer temperatures and occasionally freezing winter nights. Unless you’re properly equipped to cope with these extremes, you’d be better off coming here during the transitional seasons between April and June or October and November.

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Sydney Opera House

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In general, the best time to visit the south is during the Australian summer, from December to March, though long summer holidays from Christmas through January mean that prices are higher and beaches more crowded at this time. In the tropical north, the best months are from May to October, while in the centre they are from October to November and from March to May. If you want to tour extensively, keep to the southern coasts in summer and head north for the winter.

Average temperatures and rainfall

Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

Adelaide

Temp. (ºC) 28 27 25 22 18 16 14 15 17 21 22 25

Rainfall (mm) 20 20 25 45 65 70 65 60 55 40 25 20

Alice Springs

Temp. (ºC) 36 35 32 27 22 21 19 21 25 30 32 35

Rainfall (mm) 35 40 25 20 25 25 20 20 10 25 30 35

Brisbane

Temp. (ºC) 27 27 26 25 23 21 23 22 24 25 26 27

Rainfall (mm) 160 160 150 80 70 60 55 50 50 75 100 140

Cairns

Temp. (ºC) 31 31 30 29 28 25 25 27 27 28 30 31

Rainfall (mm) 400 440 450 180 100 50 30 25 35 35 90 160

Canberra

Temp. (ºC) 27 25 23 20 15 13 12 13 15 18 22 25

Rainfall (mm) 55 50 50 45 50 30 30 50 50 70 65 65

Darwin

Temp. (ºC) 31 30 31 32 31 30 30 31 32 32 33 32

Rainfall (mm) 400 430 435 75 50 10 5 10 15 70 110 310

Hobart

Temp. (ºC) 21 21 20 17 14 12 11 12 15 18 19 20

Rainfall (mm) 50 45 50 55 50 45 50 50 55 55 50 50

Melbourne

Temp. (ºC) 26 26 24 21 16 15 14 15 17 19 21 20

Rainfall (mm) 45 50 55 60 55 50 50 50 55 65 55 55

Perth

Temp. (ºC) 30 30 28 25 22 20 19 19 20 22 25 28

Rainfall (mm) 10 15 25 50 125 185 175 145 80 75 25 20

Sydney

Temp. (ºC) 25 25 24 23 20 17 16 17 19 22 23 24

Rainfall (mm) 100 105 125 130 125 130 110 75 60 75 70 75

All temperatures are in Celsius: to convert to Fahrenheit multiply by 9, divide by 5 and add 32.

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our authors have crossed the length and breadth of Australia in search of the most impressive landscapes, sumptuous food and memorable sights. Here’s a list of their personal highlights.

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West MacDonnell Ranges National Park

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Enjoying Art Deco Katoomba This tiny Blue Mountains town is lined with Art Deco buildings, modest in scale yet glamorous in their effect. See page 138

Heading to the Outback playground The wild Western MacDonnell Ranges unfurl from Alice Springs, reaching a scenic high point at Ormiston Gorge. Trekking the Larapinta Trail allows you to take in the whole glorious chain. See page 393

Catching sight of a cassowary These rare and idiosyncratic birds can be spotted at the Sanctuary on Mission beach. See page 289

Exploring Port Arthur A vivid sense of the hardship and horror of convict life is conjured at this World Heritage Site. See page 635

Listening to live music Melbourne is renowned for its vibrant live music scene, whether folk, indie or alternative. See page 546

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A Southern Cassowary

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Sampling Adelaide’s Italian culinary heritage Head to the city’s 140-year-old Central Market, where you’ll find everything from handmade gelati to Neapolitan pizza. See page 469

Soaking up Mad Max scenery Dust storms, subterranean homes, high plateaus: isolated Coober Pedy has it all. See page 503

Donning a hard hat Get a sense of what mining life was like with a tour of Day Dream Mine near Broken Hill, where a seam of silver is still visible running through the rock. See page 225

Swimming with whale sharks Put on a snorkel and go for a dip with the world’s largest fish, which appears for a few months each year off the coast of Exmouth. See page 442

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25

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Australia has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights: beautiful beaches, outstanding national parks, spectacular wildlife and lively festivals. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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1 Blue Mountains (NSW)

See page 137

World Heritage-listed, the Blue Mountains are a wonderland of ancient forests, deep valleys and lookouts from sheer cliffs, all just an hour or so from Sydney.

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2 Bushtucker

See page 63

Never mind wattle seeds and witchetty grubs, in Australia you can slap rooburgers on the barbie and eat emu steaks in a restaurant.

Copyright (c) 2019 Benny Marty/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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3 Wilpena Pound (SA)

See page 508

There are some fantastic hikes in the Flinders Ranges National Park, but few top the spectacular scenery at the elevated basin of Wilpena Pound.

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4 Sport at the MCG (Vic)

See page 524

Taking in a game of cricket or Aussie Rules football at the venerable Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) is a must for any sports fan.

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5 Fraser Island (Qld)

See page 261

The giant dunes and freshwater lakes of the world’s largest sand island form the backdrop to popular 4WD safaris.

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6 Sydney harbour (NSW)

See pages 102

Scale the bridge, take a harbour ferry to Manly or just marvel at the Opera House sails at the most iconic location in Sydney, a shorthand for Australia itself.

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7 Surfing

See page 70

Whether point, reef or beach breaks, there are world-famous waves on most coasts, and warm water to boot.

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8 Riding the rails

See page 54

For the ultimate in romantic travel, take a ride on one of Australia’s famous long-distance trains, the Ghan or the Indian Pacific.

Copyright (c) 2018 Dorothy Chiron/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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9 The Kimberley (WA)

See page 449

Regarded as Australia’s last frontier, the Kimberley is a sparsely populated, untamed wilderness that contains some stunning landscapes.

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10 Tall Timber Country (WA)

See page 424

These primeval karri forests are one of WA’s greatest natural sights. Get a bird’s-eye view from the Tree Top Walk.

Shutterstock

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11 The Overland Track (Tas)

See page 660

The 80km route from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair is Australia’s greatest extended bushwalk: five or more days of exhilarating exhaustion and stupendous scenery.

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12 Uluru (NT)

See page 396

Visit at dawn or dusk and you’ll understand why Uluru, formerly known as Ayers Rock, is a sacred site for the Anangu.

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13 Great Ocean Road (Vic)

See page 566

On two wheels or four, the 280km route along the surf-battered cliffs bordering the Great Ocean Road is perfect road-trip material.

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14 Mardi Gras (NSW)

See page 124

Sydney’s irreverent Oxford Street parade, from dykes on bikes to the Melbourne marching boys, ends the summer season.

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15 Crocodiles (NT)

See page 371

Head up north to see the Territory’s population of fearsome crocs.

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16 Sailing in the Whitsundays (Qld)

See page 276

There’s fantastic sailing and diving – and whale watching in season – in the white-sand Whitsunday Islands.

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17 South Australia’s wineries (SA)

See pages 482, 479, 486, 498 and 494

The Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Coonawarra vineyards are all wonderful places to unwind.

iStock

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18 Atherton Tablelands (Qld)

See page 299

With its rainforest, crater lakes and abundant wildlife, the Atherton Tablelands are ripe for exploration.

Copyright (c) 2017 Darren Tierney/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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19 Coober Pedy (SA)

See page 503

This bone-dry, baking-hot opal-mining town is the embodiment of the Outback spirit.

iStock

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20 Eating out in Melbourne (Vic)

See page 541

Nowhere in Australia does food culture better: edgy urban cafés, stylish bohemian bistros and glamorous fine-food restaurants.

iStock

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21 First Nations tours (NT)

See page 358

Seek a small-group, Aboriginal-run tour in the Territories to gain an understanding of 70,000 years of Australian culture.

Copyright (c) 2020 Benny Marty/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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22 The Franklin River (Tas)

See page 666

The Franklin River not only provides one of the wildest whitewater roller-coasters on earth, it is the only means of access to an astounding rainforest wilderness.

Copyright (c) 2014 ian woolcock/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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23 Bondi Beach (NSW)

See page 105

Sand, surf and café culture: Sydney’s famous beach has something for everyone.

iStock

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24 Kakadu National Park (NT)

See page 367

Abundant wildlife and ancient rock art in Australia’s largest national park, a World Heritage-listed wilderness that featured in Crocodile Dundee.

Shutterstock

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25 Kangaroo Island (SA)

See page 488

Fantastic coastal scenery and a huge variety of wildlife on a pristine island.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Given Australia’s vast scale, it makes more sense to focus on one, two or perhaps three regions, depending on your time frame. The following itineraries showcase both classic attractions and less well-known gems, from the elegant attractions of the coastal cities to the mesmerizing desert interior. The trips below give a flavour of what the country has to offer and what we can plan and book for you at http://roughguides.com/trips.

Top to bottom

An adventurous itinerary for which you need a minimum of two weeks. From Darwin, make a foray into the Kakadu National Park. Then take the Outback Ghan train via Alice Springs to visit Uluru, winding up in Adelaide.

1 Darwin An ocean city with a revitalized waterfront area. Fast-growing and multicultural, it’s a great place for food: the sunset markets provide Malay laksa, peanut satays and even bushtucker. See page 356

2 Kakadu National Park Traditionally owned by the Bininj and the Mungguy peoples, this spectacular region features weird and wonderful wildlife, including freshwater crocodiles, jabiru birds and dingoes. The ancient rock art, including images in the X-ray style, is outstanding. See page 367

3 The Ghan Cutting into the Red Centre, the legendary Ghan train takes its name from the nineteenth-century camel drivers who explored the Australian interior. Red earth and inky blue skies provide a fantastic panorama. See page 389

4 Alice Springs The modern desert town of Alice Springs makes an attractive stop-off, where you can browse art galleries and find some welcome good-quality cafés and restaurants. It’s a great place to shop for First Nations art. See page 385

5 Uluru Perhaps Australia’s defining sight, this mighty monolith is also a keystone in the country’s cultural history. Once seen by visitors as simply a challenging lump of rock to climb, it is now recognized for its deep significance to the local Anangu population. See page 396

6 Adelaide Elegant Adelaide is the end of this particular line, with attractions including bountiful botanic gardens, bluestone mansions and a host of museums and cultural centres. See page 466

Western Australia

This two-week trip takes you along the Indian Ocean coast, from tropical Broome in the north to cosmopolitan Perth in the south. Treats en route include sparkling beaches, river gorges and dolphin-spotting opportunities.

1 Broome Broome is a bustling little place, first made wealthy by an 1880s pearl rush; remnants of the industry still pervade the town, and you can visit one of the world’s oldest cinemas. See page 449

2 Dampier If you fancy a bit of bushcamping, make a stop at the northern beaches here. You’ll find some lovely white-sand stretches and isolated creeks. See page 454

3 Ningaloo Reef Take to the waters to snorkel and dive among the corals, and five hundred species of fish. See page 444

4 Monkey Mia You’re pretty much guaranteed to see dolphins here, which is the main draw, but there’s also a lovely beach, and plenty of resorts and attractions to explore in the enclosing Shark Bay. See page 440

5 Kalbarri The river and coastal gorges at Kalbarri comprise a spectacular national park which features wonderful hiking trails. See page 437

6 Nambung National Park As you wend your way south, don’t miss the extraordinary limestone pinnacles of this park: the Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre fills you in on the geological detail. See page 433

7 Perth Sunny Perth is an ideal stopover after the great outdoors. Check out the fine collection of galleries, see rare flora at the Botanic Garden, and catch up on some nightlife. See page 406

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The Great Ocean Road

This is a classic drive, taking in dramatic rock formations, submerged shipwrecks and some lively and attractive beach resorts. Allow a week to explore the road at leisure, including a couple of days immersed in the café culture and arts scene of Melbourne.

1 Melbourne Australia’s European city, with large Greek and Italian communities, stand-out restaurants, arts festivals and ornate Victorian architecture. There’s a varied selection of live music venues and some excellent galleries. See page 514

2 Lorne Picturesque seaside Lorne is an ideal holiday resort, combining a laidback surfie vibe with some fine restaurants, delis and boutiques. Plunge into the chilly waters, then warm up on a hiking trail among the ferns and eucalypts. See page 570

3 Great Otway National Park A triangle of national park designated an Important Bird Area for its populations of bristlebirds, fieldwrens and pink robins. The lush hills and gullies are hugely scenic, and don’t miss the historic Cape Otway Lighthouse. See page 572

4 Twelve Apostles These ocean-set limestone pillars are an icon of the Great Ocean Road, rising up to 65m. Watch out for the fairy penguins crowding onto the shore at dusk. See page 573

5 Port Fairy A lovely place to end your trip, this early whaling settlement has some of the oldest houses you’ll see in Australia, as well as enticing beaches. The sight of umpteen muttonbirds roosting here is unforgettable. See page 575

EAST COAST Beaches

Australia is fringed by some of the most glorious beaches you’ll ever see. Many of these are in surprisingly built-up areas – you’ll find pristine sand practically in the heart of Sydney, for example. Elsewhere, coral, tropical fish and shipwrecks provide wonderful coastal adventures. Most of East Coast Australia’s best beaches can be reached by public transport, or hire a car or campervan and allow yourself three or four weeks to explore.

1 Whitehaven Beach This Whitsunday Island beach is comprised of 5km of pure white sand, making it a lure for pleasure boats. Camp at the southern end, snorkel and enjoy the glorious sunsets. See page 279

2 Fraser Island Take your pick of seashore spots at Seventy-Five Mile Beach. Eli Creek is one of the most attractive options, or head for the Maheno shipwreck which peeks out of the sand. The Champagne Pools are natural indentations that make for a safe and serene swim. See page 261

3 Noosa At the swisher end of the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Noosa is a high-end resort with an unspoilt beach and a national park, where you might see koalas on your coastal walk. See page 256

4 Byron Bay Backed by rainforest, Byron Bay features 30km of sandy strands. Keep your eyes peeled for passing dolphins and humpback whales, and enjoy the increasingly hip restaurant scene and nightlife once the sun has set. See page 186

5 Crescent Head A New South Wales beach, and the site of an important native title claim. A stunning arc of blond sand, the beach is safe for swimming and has some excellent surf spots. See page 179

6 Bondi Beach This 1.5km-long stretch of sand is the ultimate in Australian beach glamour, with buffed lifesavers, surfer dudes, big waves, sea pools, passing rollerbladers and a great café scene. See page 105

Image ID:MAP001Itineraries2

Natural wonders

The country is blessed with spectacular and varied landscapes, from eucalyptus-cloaked hills to epic desert and the great monolith of Uluru. To tick off the highlights in a single trip, set aside two or three weeks for a 4WD safari or a string of domestic flights. Hiking is the best way to explore the flora, fauna and rock art.

1 Undara Lava Tubes Vast subterranean pipes formed by an ancient volcano, which shelter microbats and brown tree snakes, known as night tigers, which hang from the trees. See page 348

2 The Kimberley Western Australian frontier land, with a crocodile coast, wide rivers and deep isolated gorges. A unique sight here is the bulbous boab tree, whose nuts are carved by Aboriginal artists. See page 449

3 Uluru Epic and elemental, this massive rock is one of the country’s great natural sights. Anangu-led tours introduce you to some fascinating wildlife, including more than seventy reptile species. See page 396

4 Mungo National Park Take a camping trip in a desert wilderness where Australia’s megafauna once roamed: you’ll see crowds of emus and kangaroos. The dome of stars in the night sky in this remote region is a sight in itself. See page 226

5 Kangaroo Island Cast adrift from South Australia, the country’s third-largest island is remarkably unspoilt. As well as having a spectacular coastline, sand dunes and cave networks to explore, the island simply teems with wildlife. See page 488

6 Cradle Mountain Tasmanian wilderness cut through by iconic hiking trails. Look out for wombats, echidnas and platypus. In the same region is Lake St Clair, Australia’s deepest lake. See page 659

7 Blue Mountains Endlessly receding mountain ranges, tinged blue by gum oil in the atmosphere. The region is home to the Wollemi pine, or dinosaur tree, which dates back sixty million years and until recently was thought only to exist in fossil form. See page 137

8 Lord Howe Island A tiny island ringed by coral, with unique flora, rare flightless birds, umpteen sea birds and dazzling tropical fish. Snorkellers might catch sight of imposing but unthreatening Galapagos sharks. See page 192

Foodie tour

Immigrants to Australia from Mediterranean Europe and the Far East have brought some wonderful food traditions to the country, and the sunny climate means bountiful produce. The food-obsessed coastal cities in particular offer a top-notch range of eating opportunities. You could visit them all in a three-week trip.

1 Sydney You’ll find no end of top-notch restaurants in Sydney, the most famous being Japanese/French Tetsuya’s, which offers a five- or eight-course degustation. See page 78

2 Orange At F.O.O.D. Week in April, you can learn about local cuisine, browse markets, meet producers, listen to talks, and take part in the justly popular FORAGE walk, a gentle stroll with chances to gather and devour regional produce. See page 199

3 High Country Gourmet Regions Some of Victoria’s finest food, wine and beer can be found in the High Country of the Victorian Alps and along the Murray River. The vineyards, fields, orchards and olive groves result in some wonderful produce, including handmade butter and artisan cheeses. See page 607

4 Melbourne From funky upcycled coffee shops to high-end rooftop restaurants and bountiful farmers’ markets, Melbourne is a city that takes food seriously. Just listen to your waiter effuse about the specials, and you’ll see what we mean. See page 514

5 Tasmania The temperate Tasmanian climate results in excellent fruit and veg, cool-climate wine and high-quality beef, cheeses, beers and honey. The island’s oysters are also renowned. See page 612

6 Adelaide With strong Greek and Italian influences, Adelaide has a lively eating and drinking scene, focused on the Central Market, home to scores of great stalls, cafés and restaurants. See page 466

7 Barossa Valley You’ll find terrific wine across the country, but the Barossa region near Adelaide is the largest and best-established region. Visit between March and May for the harvest; the Barossa Vintage Festival is celebrated from Easter Monday in odd-numbered years. See page 480

8 The Kimberley Catch your own mangrove jack or barramundi on a wilderness cruise and have it cooked up on board. You might also get a bite from a golden snapper, blue bone groper or red emperor. See page 449

]>

Basics

Getting there

There are daily flights to various Australian cities from across Europe, North America and Southeast Asia. Fares depend on the season, the highest being the two weeks either side of Christmas and the lowest during the shoulder seasons, which run from late February to June and from October to November. Because of the distance involved from most popular departure points, flying at weekends does not alter the price.

In addition to flight comparison sites like Skyscanner (http://skyscanner.net), specialist flight agents can also help find cheap deals, and may offer special student and youth fares as well as organize travel insurance, rail passes, car rental and tours. If Australia is a stop on a longer journey, consider a round-the-world (RTW) ticket (see page 53); Australia is a fixture in RTW tickets offered by most travel agents. With the exception of New Zealanders, all tourists are required to arrive with a visa (see page 53); you are not currently required to show a return or onward ticket, though it’s worth double checking, as this has been the case in the past. If you plan to fly around Australia, a Qantas Explorer pass (see http://qantas.com for details) can pay dividends, though due to price slashing by budget domestic flights, this is not necessarily the case – do the sums first.

Image ID:101-1

Driving the Nullarbor Plain

Copyright (c) 2017 totajla/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Reintroduced in 2022, the direct service from London to Perth with Qantas (http://qantas.com) has cut the minimum flight time from the UK to Australia down to 17 hours. The journey to Sydney and other eastern cities takes a minimum of 21 hours including stops to refuel, often in Dubai, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur. Sydney and Melbourne are served by the greatest number of airlines, the former usually being slightly cheaper; flights to Darwin and Perth are generally a little bit cheaper.

Most flights depart from London’s Heathrow and Gatwick airports, although it’s also possible to fly from regional UK airports, checking your luggage through if you fly with a single airline alliance for your entire journey.

The cheapest return ticket costs around £600 during the shoulder seasons of late February to June, and October to November. At the most expensive time to fly, around Christmas, there are few tickets under £1000 return: you need to book at least six months in advance to secure a cheap flight. Prices also blip upwards from mid-July to mid-August, coinciding with the European holiday period.

An alternative to the long direct flight is a multi-stopover ticket, typically travelling via Asia though often via the US or Middle East, which can cost the same or just a little more than an ordinary return (and also breaks up the journey).

There are currently no direct flights to Australia from Ireland, so most journeys involve a change in a European air hub – London, Paris or Frankfurt – in order to transfer to a long-haul airline. Return fares in the low season are usually around the €800 mark, €1500 plus in high season.

RTW tickets

Round-the-world (RTW) tickets often incorporate Australia within a package of global flights. The permutations are tantalizing: typically, stopovers allow overland travel in Asia, the Pacific and North America, but you can pretty much devise your own fantasy itinerary (for example, including destinations in South America and the Pacific). A good travel agency will be able to piece together sector fares from various airlines; to give you an idea of prices, a simple London–Bangkok–Sydney–Dubai–London deal can cost as little as £800; more complicated routings will be more like £1200–1700.

Flights from the US and Canada

It is possible to fly nonstop from Los Angeles to Sydney in around fourteen hours. Qantas, United (http://united.com) and Air Canada (http://aircanada.com) all operate direct to the east coast of Australia. National Asian airlines usually stop in their capital city (Singapore, Tokyo, Hong Kong, etc); their fares on the Pacific route from the west coast of North America to the east coast of Australia are generally a bit higher than their American and Australian competitors.

Many of the major airlines offer stopover deals in Pacific Rim destinations such as Tokyo, Honolulu or Kuala Lumpur, or at South Pacific locations such as Fiji. Either there will be a flat surcharge on your return fare, or they may offer a higher-priced ticket allowing you to make as many stops as you like, within certain parameters, over a fixed period of time.

As an idea of prices, standard scheduled return fares for the low/high seasons cost from around US$800/1100. The price of an open-jaw ticket (ie flying into one city and returning from another) will often be the average of the return fares to the two cities, though you may end up paying much more.

RTW or Circle Pacific tickets

If you don’t mind setting an itinerary in advance, the best deal will most likely be a round-the-world (RTW) ticket from North America that has stop-offs in Australia and New Zealand, typically via Southeast Asia or Europe but also South America. As you would expect, prices vary hugely, depending on the travel agent. However, a sample RTW itinerary of Los Angeles–London–Dubai–Bangkok–Sydney–Auckland–Los Angeles costs around US$1500 – only 50 percent more than a regular return flight, and you get far more bang for your buck. Circle Pacific tickets are similar but restricted to the Pacific region, which includes North America and Asia. Check out the websites of agents (see page 53) for deals.

Flights from New Zealand

New Zealand–Australia routes are busy and competition is fierce, resulting in an ever-changing range of economical deals. Your best bet is to check the latest prices with flight websites that pool all airlines’ prices; alternatively, consult a specialist travel agent (see page 53). Budget airlines have cut fares, with the likes of Virgin Australia (http://virginaustralia.com) often offering good deals. Ultimately, the price you pay will depend on how much flexibility you want; many of the cheapest deals are hedged with restrictions (typically, a maximum stay of thirty days and a fourteen-day advance-purchase requirement). Air New Zealand (http://airnewzealand.co.nz) and Virgin Australia fly from Auckland, Christchurch, Queenstown and Wellington. Flight times between Auckland and Sydney are about three and a half hours.

Flights from South Africa

Flying from South Africa, the journey time is around ten hours from Johannesburg to Perth, or around fourteen hours to Sydney. The main carriers for this route are Qantas and South African Airways (http://flysaa.com); expect to pay around ZAR20,000 for a return to Sydney in peak season.

Getting there from Southeast Asia

For many European backpackers, the journey to Australia via Southeast Asia is a rite of passage, thanks to the boundless opportunities for adventures at (generally) wallet-friendly prices. Travelling overland through Southeast Asia should not make too much of a difference to the price of your plane ticket, since many Asian airlines stop in their regional hub en route to Australia: Thai Airways in Bangkok (http://thaiairways.com), Singapore Airlines in Singapore (http://singaporeair.com), and Malaysia Airways in Kuala Lumpur (http://malaysiaairlines.com). If you want to continue overland between, for example, Bangkok and Bali, from where it is a short flight over to Darwin in Australia’s Northern Territory, consider buying a round-the-world ticket (see page 53) with an overland component.

Agents and tour operators

If time is short and you’re reasonably sure of your plans, it is worth prebooking your accommodation and tours; see below for a list of global operators and Australian tour specialists.

Agents and operators

AAT Kings http://aatkings.com. A long-established Australian agency that operates right across the country and is particularly popular with older travellers.

Abercrombie and Kent http://abercrombiekent.com. This high-end agent excels in tailored, small-group tours and interesting experiences themed by family fun, adventure, highlights or icons. It also has several fixed-itinerary tours.

North South Travel http://northsouthtravel.co.uk. Small, competitive agency with discounted airfares. Profits support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

Redtag http://redtag.ca. Canadian travel firm, good for flight bookings, all-inclusive stays and last-minute deals.

Swain Destinations http://swaindestinations.com. A wide range of customizable tours covering all of Australia, as well as themed itineraries spanning food, wine and wildlife.

Tasmanian Odyssey http://tasmanianodyssey.com. Well-chosen accommodation and tour experiences curated by the only specialist Tassie agency in the UK.

Trailfinders http://trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed, helpful and most efficient agents for independent travellers to Australia (and beyond).

USIT http://usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists can also help to arrange working holidays in Australia.

World Expeditions http://worldexpeditions.com. This Australian-owned adventure company runs small-group active wilderness holidays; as well as cycling, canoeing, rafting, 4WD excursions, walking and camping trips.

Visas and entry requirements

All visitors to Australia, except for New Zealanders, require a visa – either electronic or paper – to enter the country. Almost all applications are now made and paid for online.

The easiest way to find out which visa suits you is to visit the Department of Home Affairs’ website (http://immi.homeaffairs.gov.au/visas), which has links to visa application pages based on a few multiple-choice questions.

For those intending to stay for less than three months, nationals of most European countries (including the UK and Ireland) can apply for a free eVisitor visa, and nationals of the US, Canada, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, Hong Kong, South Korea and some Middle Eastern countries can apply for an ETA. These computerized visas replace a stamp in your passport and are valid for multiple entries into Australia over periods of three months, six months or one year. Apply prior to travelling, either direct via the website or through travel agents and airlines for a small administration fee when you book your flight. While processing is usually fast – from five minutes to a day – officially visas can take up to six days to process. Get an application in early unless you particularly enjoy a spot of pre-trip panic.

Citizens of other countries, including South Africa, should apply for a tourist visa, valid for three, six or twelve months, which costs from A$140 via the website, in person or by post to the relevant embassy or consulate. There is no longer a guarantee of multiple entries for visa holders, so check on receipt.

Twelve-month working holiday visas are available to citizens aged 18–30 of many European countries (including the UK), Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan and Korea, and citizens of Ireland and Canada aged 18–35. The stress is on casual employment – no single job is meant to last more than six months – and visas must be sought several months in advance of arrival. Working visas cost $495, plus an administration fee if not applied for online; some travel agents can arrange them for you. A Work and Holiday Visa (subclass 462) offers the same deal for nationals of the US, Turkey, Thailand, Malaysia, Chile and China (among others).

Note that Australia has strict quarantine laws on importing fruit, vegetables, fresh and packaged food, seed, vegetative and some animal products into the country, and when travelling interstate. For the same reasons, it is suspicious of walking boots and camping equipment used in many parts of the developing world. Counterfeit or pirated goods may be seized and there are also strict laws prohibiting drugs, steroids, firearms, protected wildlife, and heritage-listed products. Sniffer dogs and X-ray scanners for luggage are commonplace – if you are in doubt about an item, declare it as you enter rather than risk a fine. You are allowed $900 worth of goods, including gifts and souvenirs, while visitors aged 18 or over are given a duty-free allowance of 2.25 litres of alcohol and 25 cigarettes or 25g of tobacco. To find out more about specific prohibited goods before you travel, visit the Australian Immigration and Border Protection website (http://homeaffairs.gov.au).

Getting around

Given the country’s vast size, internal travel is a major factor of any visit to Australia. In general, public transport plies only the major highways to capital cities, the bigger towns between them, and to popular tourist destinations; to get off the beaten track you’ll have to consider renting – or even buying – a vehicle.

If you’re planning to cross states overland, it is important to factor in ample travel time. It’s easy to underestimate distances and conditions – you may well be letting yourself in for a three-day bus journey, or planning to drive 500km on bad roads. Bear in mind, too, what the weather will be doing; you don’t necessarily want to head into central Australia in a battered car during summer, or into the northern tropics in the wet season.

By plane

Flying is the most common means of interstate travel in Australia, and budget operators like Jetstar (http://jetstar.com) and Virgin Australia (http://virginaustralia.com) compete with the national operator, Qantas (http://qantas.com.au). As a rough idea of prices, a typical one-way flight from Sydney to Melbourne costs from around $90 and from Perth to Darwin $275. These three airlines cover the majority of interstate flights. Regional routes are served by smaller airlines such as Regional Express, also called Rex (http://rex.com.au), which focuses on New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania, and state-based companies such as Air North (http://airnorth.com.au) in the Northern Territory.

If flying with Qantas, you could save money with an Explorer Pass, which covers up to six discounted domestic (and selected New Zealand) flights; you’ll need to purchase it when you book as part of a package with your international flight. As ever, prices fluctuate by the season – and, in the US and Canada, according to your departure point. If you know your travel plans and can face the extra effort, it is worth double-checking that the pass will actually save money; some travellers discover that budget airline bargains can work out cheaper than the discounted flights included in a pass.

Sightseeing flights are available throughout Australia – the best and most spectacular are included in the relevant sections of the Guide and local tourist boards can also advise. They cover everything from biplane spins above cities to excursions to the Great Barrier Reef and flights over well-known landscapes. A flight from Alice Springs to Uluru in a small plane, for example, enables you to visit the Rock in a day, but also observe the impressive central Australian landforms from the air. In addition, helicopter and hot-air balloon rides are also offered.

By train

Each state (bar Tasmania, which has no proper passenger services) operates its own rail network. The east coast and southeast has a reasonably comprehensive service: interstate railways link the entire east coast from Cairns to Sydney, and on to Melbourne and Adelaide. There are suburban networks around some of the major cities, but only around Sydney does this amount to much, with decent services to most of New South Wales. There are also a couple of inland tracks in Queensland – to Mount Isa, Longreach and Charleville, plus the rustic Cairns–Forsayth run and isolated Croydon–Normanton stretch.

Trains are usually more comfortable than buses and can be a little faster for only a little extra expense – Brisbane to Cairns takes 25 hours by train, and 29 hours by coach. Some also get seriously booked up: Queensland trains, for example, require a month’s advance booking during holiday season. Generally, it’s cheaper – and, of course, faster – to fly, though far less atmospheric and not as environmentally friendly as land-based alternatives.

For rail buffs, Australia also has two great (or perhaps just long) journeys: the Indian Pacific from Perth to Sydney, travelling for three nights and 4352km across the Nullarbor Plain (gold sleeper single/twin from $2239/2499 per person; platinum sleeper from $3799); and the Ghan, which takes three days to go from Adelaide to Darwin via Alice Springs (gold sleeper single/twin from $2349/2629 per person; platinum sleeper from $3979). Both services are operated by Journey Beyond Rail (http://journeybeyondrail.com.au) and are geared towards the luxury travel experience, rather than the act of getting from A to B – at least, ever since its red service economy carriages were discontinued in 2015. The options are now gold (read: very pricey private compartments) and platinum (very, very pricey en-suite rooms). It also runs the 828km-long Overland interstate service between Melbourne and Adelaide (11hr).

Journey Beyond Rail offers a motorail service (only bookable by phone on 1800 703 357) on two of its routes: Adelaide–Perth and Adelaide–Darwin. Standard fares are for accompanied vehicles up to 5.5m long; if your vehicle is longer or you’re not travelling with it, surcharges apply.

By bus

Thanks to the spread of budget flights, bus travel is no longer necessarily the cheapest way to get around, and is certainly the most tiresome. It also often means arriving or departing in the middle of the night. Nor are services always daily, as you might think, especially in Western Australia and the Northern Territory, but even in smaller, more manageable Tasmania. Where buses are useful is access: the network reaches much further than the train network and visits small towns between cities; occasional bargain fares crop up on popular routes like Sydney–Byron Bay.

The buses are about as comfortable as they can be; long-distance services often feature reclining seats, air conditioning, toilets and DVDs. Try to plan for a stopover every twenty hours – if you endure a sixty-hour marathon trip, you’ll need a day or more to get over it. Discounts (ten percent, or fifteen percent if you buy your ticket before entering Australia) are available on many fares if you have a YHA, ISIC or recognized backpacker card such as VIP (see page 60), or if you are a pensioner.

The major interstate bus company on the mainland is Greyhound Australia (http://greyhound.com.au), which covers the entire country. Along the east coast, Premier Motor Service (http://premierms.com.au) calls in everywhere along the highway between Melbourne and Cairns, while in Western Australia, Integrity Coach Lines (http://integritycoachlines.com.au) goes from Perth to Broome, looping inland, too. Firefly Express (http://fireflyexpress.com.au) runs from Sydney to Adelaide via Canberra and Melbourne, and usually has the cheapest fares for these routes. Tasmania is covered by Tassielink (http://tassielink.com.au) and Tasmanian Redline (http://tasredline.com.au).

A one-way fare from Sydney costs about $130 to Adelaide (23hr), $110 to Brisbane (16hr), and $70 to Melbourne (12hr). Longer trips to, say, Darwin or Alice Springs will be several hundred, so are not worth considering unless you are passionately anti-flying. Return fares are only marginally cheaper than two singles.

Where bus travel scores over air (aside from its environmental impact) is its plethora of passes, though bear in mind that you won’t save money over shorter routes, and that passes are non-refundable. Greyhound offers a range of passes lasting between three days and twelve months on which you can break your journey as often as you like and travel in any direction. Whimit Passes are the most flexible, giving you unlimited travel for anything between seven days ($249) and a year ($1499). Greyhound also has dedicated holiday packages that combine travel and activities.

By car

If you stick to the east coast, public transport will cover most of your needs. But to explore Australia fully, you’ll really need your own vehicle. Only then will the national parks, remote beaches and isolated Outback towns that make the country so unique be within reach. If your trip is of four months or more, then buying a vehicle may be the cheapest way to go. For shorter trips, renting is the best bet – if not for the whole time then at least for short periods between bus rides, thereby allowing you to explore an area in depth.

Most foreign licences are valid for a year in Australia. An International Driving Permit (which is available from national motoring organizations) may be useful if you come from a non-English-speaking country. Fuel prices increase a bit in Darwin, and significantly along the Outback highways and in remote stations. The general rules of the road are similar to those in the UK and US; additionally, you’ll have to drive on the left (as in the UK), and wear seat belts at all times. The speed limit in all built-up areas is 50kph or less. Outside built-up areas, maximums are either 90kph or 110kph on longer stretches. Whatever else you do in a vehicle, respect the distances in Australia. Never drive tired and be tempted to push on through; similarly, get out of the car every few hours. Drinking alcohol is also forbidden: random breath tests are common even in rural areas, especially during the Christmas season and on Friday and Saturday nights. One rule that might catch you out in towns is that roadside parking must be in the same direction as the traffic; in other words, don’t cross oncoming traffic to park on the right. Americans should note that it’s illegal to make a turn at a red light.

Driving interstate

When driving across state borders bear in mind that your car may be subject to a customs search by officers on the lookout for fruit and fresh produce, which often cannot be carried from one state to another, to minimize the spread of plant pests and viruses. You’ll see large bins at the side of the road as you approach a state border line for this purpose: dump any perishables here before crossing; otherwise, you risk receiving a large fine if pulled over and caught with them.

The main hazards are boredom and fatigue, and animal collisions – a serious problem everywhere (and not just in the Outback), particularly at dawn, dusk and night-time. Driving in the Outback is by far the most dangerous tourist pursuit in Australia, and every year several people get killed in single-vehicle rollovers or head-on collisions, particularly Europeans on short see-it-all holidays in cumbersome 4WDs or motorhomes. Beware of 50m-long road trains: these colossal trucks can’t stop quickly or pull off the road safely, so if there’s the slightest doubt, get out of their way. Only overtake a road train if you can see well ahead and are certain your vehicle can manage it; on dirt roads be doubly cautious, or just pull over and let the road train pass.

Shortest driving distances in kilometres

Adelaide Alice Springs Brisbane Broken Hill Broome Cairns Canberra Darwin Melbourne Perth Sydney Townsville Uluru

Adelaide x 1533 1959 508 3274 2854 1164 3025 731 2690 1371 2532 1582

Alice Springs 1533 x 2700 1638 1745 2163 2561 1489 2255 2475 2768 1773 440

Brisbane 1959 2700 x 1458 4250 1700 1212 3426 1690 4260 929 1361 3149

Broken Hill 508 1638 1458 x 3383 2344 929 3135 835 2802 1160 2022 1690

Broome 3274 1745 4250 3383 x 3411 4305 1868 3999 2176 4741 3319 2185

Cairns 2854 2163 1700 2344 3411 x 2545 2596 2812 4638 2414 348 2603

Canberra 1164 2561 1212 929 4305 2545 x 3947 666 3724 286 2161 2612

Darwin 3025 1489 3426 3135 1868 2596 3947 x 3752 3983 3926 2509 1937

Melbourne 731 2255 1690 835 3999 2812 666 3752 x 3419 875 2480 2310

Perth 2690 2475 4260 2802 2176 4638 3724 3983 3419 x 3932 4823 2035

Sydney 1371 2768 929 1160 4741 2414 286 3926 875 3932 x 2070 2820

Townsville 2532