Lonely Planet British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies

By John Lee

Lonely Planet’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore Tofino, ski at Whistler, and marvel at Lake Louise; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of BC & the Canadian Rockies and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after

2020’s COVID-19 outbreak
NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies’s best experiences and where to have them
NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Color maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 35 maps 

Covers Alberta, Edmonton, Calgary, British Columbia, Vancouver, Whistler, Yukon Territory, Whitehorse

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies, our most comprehensive guide to British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less traveled. 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Pocket Vancouver, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s Canada for a comprehensive look at all the country has to offer.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Dec 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580965

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies

British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies’ Top Experiences

Need to Know

Month by Month

Itineraries

National & Regional Parks

Outdoor Activities

Regions at a Glance

ON THE ROAD

Alberta

Edmonton

Calgary

Banff & Jasper National Parks

Kananaskis Country

Canmore

Icefields Parkway

Banff Town

Lake Louise

Jasper Town & Around

Southern Alberta

Drumheller

Dinosaur Provincial Park

Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump

Lethbridge

Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park

Waterton Lakes National Park

Crowsnest Pass

Northern Alberta

Peace River & Around

Mackenzie Highway

Lake District

British Columbia

Vancouver

Lower Mainland

Richmond & Steveston

New Westminster

Bowen Island

Sea To Sky Highway

Squamish & Around

Whistler

Sunshine Coast

Gibsons

Roberts Creek

Sechelt

Powell River

Vancouver Island

Victoria

Southern Vancouver Island

Cowichan Valley

Nanaimo

Parksville & Qualicum

Port Alberni

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

Tofino

Ucluelet

Denman & Hornby Islands

Comox Valley

Campbell River

Strathcona Provincial Park

North Vancouver Island

Southern Gulf Islands

Salt Spring Island

North & South Pender Islands

Galiano Island

Saturna Island

Mayne Island

Fraser & Thompson Valleys

EC Manning Provincial Park

Fraser River Canyon

Lytton

Kamloops

Sun Peaks

Okanagan Valley

Osoyoos

Oliver

Vaseux Lake

Penticton

Penticton to Kelowna

Kelowna

Vernon

North of Vernon

The Kootenays & The Rockies

Revelstoke

Revelstoke to Golden

Golden

Yoho National Park

Kootenay National Park

Radium Hot Springs

Radium Hot Springs to Fernie

Fernie

Kimberley

Cranbrook

Cranbrook to Rossland

Rossland

Nelson

Nelson to Revelstoke

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast

Williams Lake to Prince George

Barkerville & Around

Bowron Lake

Wells Gray Provincial Park

Chilcotin & Highway 20

Bella Coola Valley

Northern British Columbia

Prince Rupert

Haida Gwaii

Prince Rupert to Prince George

Prince George

Prince George to Alberta

Stewart-Cassiar Highway

Alaska Highway

Yukon Territory

Whitehorse

Alaska Highway

British Columbia to Whitehorse

Whitehorse to Alaska

Haines Highway

Klondike Highway

Carcross

Carmacks

Stewart Crossing

Dawson City

Dempster Highway

Arctic Parks

UNDERSTAND

History

Wild Creatures

The Arts Scene

Indigenous Cultures

West Coast Cuisine

Drinking in BC & Beyond

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodations

Children

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Responsible Travel

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Women Travelers

Work

Transportation

Getting There & Away

Entering the Region

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Local Transportation

Train

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies

Grand peaks, boundless forests and a seemingly endless coastline studded with dramatic beaches made falling for this region easy when I moved here. Add in the chance to see bears, bald eagles and even a wolf or two in the wild, and I knew I would never want to leave. But it’s not just the dazzling nature that makes me love it here. From big city scenes to quirky small communities and from farm-to-table dining to adventurous local beer, I never run out of reasons to call this area my adopted forever home.

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Tod Mountain, British Columbia | HARRY BEUGELINK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By John Lee, Writer

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png @johnleewriter

For more about our writers.

British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies’ Top Experiences

1SPECTACULAR NATURE

The grand outdoors is the defining feature of Canada’s most dramatically scenic region. From the looming snow-capped peaks of the Rockies to the massive white-sand beaches of Vancouver Island, locals and visitors never run out of reasons to slip on their hiking gear. The reward? A deep feeling of reconnecting with nature, along with plenty of reasons to sigh deeply at some once-in-a-lifetime vistas.

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RUSS HEINL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Gaze at a Glacial Lake

The Rockies are jam-packed with camera-worthy panoramas. But Lake Louise (pictured) – a turquoise jewel framed by sawtooth crags – is a Banff National Park must-see. Explore less-traveled trails and you’ll soon be communing with this magical spot as if you’re the only person here.

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GREG MCLEMORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hit the Beaches

Vancouver Island’s wild western shoreline is home to some of the most achingly beautiful natural bays in North America. Base yourself in Tofino (pictured) and spend long, languid days exploring these huge, gently-curving local beaches (pictured).

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ANDREW FERGUSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hop the Islands

Book some slow-travel BC Ferries jaunts and you’ll be blinking in the breeze at ocean panoramas studded with little landmasses topped with trees. The ferries stop at several Southern Gulf Islands – including Mayne, Galiano and Salt Spring (pictured) – and each offers tranquil woodland walks and hilltop shoreline views.

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ROXANA GONZALEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2OUTDOOR ACTION

There are countless memorable ways to interact with this rugged region’s mighty alfresco setting. From tree-hugging wilderness hikes to breathtaking ocean kayaking to some of North America’s most celebrated skiing and snowboarding, working up a sweat alongside the steely-calved locals couldn’t be easier. The biggest challenge? Finding a way to fit it all in to your itinerary.

Tackle the Trails

The Rockies hooks hikers who love epic encounters with forests, alpine meadows and towering peaks under cathedral-like blue skies. Banff (pictured) is an ideal hub, with options for every skill and fitness level.

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GALYNA ANDRUSHKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Paddle Time

BC’s shoreline hosts surfing, scuba diving, whale watching and more. But ocean kayaking is the most idyllic way to commune with the aquatic outdoors.

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Broken Group Islands, BC | RON WATTS/DESIGN PICS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hit the Slopes

Whistler (pictured) is a winter-season must for ski and snowboard fans. Its twin mountaintops (linked by a dramatic gondola ride) offer dozens of spectacular runs, while its gabled village is a wind-down hot spot after all that muscle-stretching action.

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SXMSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3AMAZING HISTORY

This region was founded on colorful stories and characters. And for visitors there are countless ways to bring this rich heritage to life, from charming small-town museums to carefully-preserved historic sites that feel like they’re filled with the friendly ghosts of yesteryear. The trick to tapping into this evocative past? Slow down and look for guided walking tours.

Wander the Old West

Step back into the region’s pioneer-era past at Barkerville (pictured), complete with preserved storefronts, hotels and homes. Costumed characters walk the streets, adding to the time-travel feel.

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JR REYES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dive into Dawson

Encounter the gritty Gold Rush in Dawson, a quirky frontier town built for back-in-the-day prospectors. Boardwalk streets and painted storefronts abound, while local bars feel like vintage saloons.

Discover a Fishy Past

Richmond’s Gulf of Georgia Cannery is BC’s best industrial museum. Learn about this humungous former salmon processing plant, complete with tales of ‘slimers’ and cannery cats.

Top Experiences

4INDIGENOUS CULTURES

Indigenous locals have called this area home for thousands of years, and there are many ways to explore this storied past and resurgent contemporary culture. From brilliantly curated museums to in-depth heritage centers to revelatory guided tours, these experiences will deepen and contextualize your visit.

Explore the History

The dramatically named Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump (pictured) is a Unesco-listed center that evocatively profiles the intriguing history and latter-day culture of the local Blackfoot people.

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RUSS HEINL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Visit a Museum

Vancouver’s celebrated Museum of Anthropology (pictured) reverentially showcases indigenous culture, complete with beautiful artifacts, detailed carvings and in-depth displays.

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XUANLU WANG/SHUTTERSTOCK © ARCHITECT: ARTHUR ERICKSON

Discover Haida Gwaii

A ferry or plane from the mainland brings you to the mystical Haida Gwaii archipelago. Museums, tours and soul-stirring visits to former village sites await (pictured).

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE COLLECTION/ALAMY ©

Top Experiences

5WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

Nature isn’t just about grand scenery here; there are also countless opportunities to gaze at critters in the wild that you rarely spot so easily elsewhere. From bald eagles to grizzly bears and from orcas to hummingbirds, this region is a treasure trove of chances to encounter the teeth and claws of the natural world.

Drive-thru Safari

The super-scenic Icefields Parkway (pictured) route between Banff and Jasper is flanked by snow-capped mountains. But it’s also a view-tastic chance to see everything from black bears to bighorn sheep.

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SOPOTNICKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top-notch Birding

Near Vancouver, Iona Beach Regional Park is on the Pacific Flyway migratory bird route. Which means you’ll see an ever-revolving cavalcade of visiting avians, alongside local eagles, hawks, hummingbirds and more.

Brilliant Bears

Hop on a tour boat in northern BC to spot dozens of wild bears (often including cubs with their mothers) nosing along the forested shoreline of Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary (pictured).

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WESTEND61 PREMIUM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6DRINKING & DINING DELIGHTS

Farm-to-table dishes and regionally-produced libations have become local staples in recent years. For visitors, this means an ever-expanding menu of homegrown flavors to seek out, from fresh seafood to regional wines and much more.

Drink the Okanagan

The vine-striped hills of BC’s biggest wine regionare studded with inviting producers. You’ll find massive destination wineries plus off-the-beaten-path gems around every corner of Okanagan (pictured).

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MADDISON123/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Eat Vancouver

The region’s biggest city serves-up arguably Canada’s most exciting food scene. Expect everything from sushi joints to vegan fine-dining and from food trucks to award-winning seafood restaurants.

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Coal Harbour, Vancouver, BC | JOSHUA DAVENPORT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hit the Night Market

The huge May-to-October Richmond Night Market includes dozens of steam-shrouded food stands. Dive into authentic Asian street food plus eclectic fusion dishes such as Japanese tacos.

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Richmond Night Market, BC | SEN YANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

7DISTINCTIVE SMALL TOWNS

Exploring this region beyond the well-known towns and cities often means discovering smaller communities studded with charm, character and perhaps a little eccentricity. From historic hamlets to hip coastal towns, hop in the car, hit the road and add some fresh new perspectives to your visit.

Come to Cumberland

The painted storefronts of this former coalmining town have been transformed in recent years by new residents. Bars, restaurants and artisan stores await – plus a fascinating little museum.

Discover Powell River

The Sunshine Coast’s highlight community is Powell River. Founded around a paper mill, its vintage Historic District now houses independent stores, restaurants and a celebrated brewery.

Pick Prince Rupert

Terminus of both the train from Jasper and the ferry from Port Hard, coastal Prince Rupert (pictured) has a village feel – especially in its Cow Bay area, a stretch of colorful shops and cafes.

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OLGARADZIKH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8ART ATTACK

If top-notch galleries and art museums are on your to-do list, you’re in luck: some of Canada’s most revered cultural institutions call this area home, and they are the perfect places to access local art scenes and to encounter visiting blockbuster exhibitions.

Edmonton Hot Spot

With its dramatic swirl-topped building, Edmonton’s Art Gallery of Alberta (pictured) is an exciting venue to view historical and contemporary works, especially from Canada.

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JEFF WHYTE/SHUTTERSTOCK © ARCHITECT: RANDALL STOUT

Vancouver Showcase

Aiming to move to a yet-to-be-built new site in future years, the current Vancouver Art Gallery (pictured) hosts exciting in-house exhibitions (don’t miss the top-floor Emily Carr paintings) alongside brilliant visiting shows.

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DEYMOSHR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Whistler Wonder

Transforming the world-famous ski resort’s cultural scene, the striking Audain Art Museum (pictured) showcases top regional artists, including many celebrated indigenous creatives.

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CAROLYNE PARENT/SHUTTERSTOCK © ARCHITECTS: PATKAU ARCHITECTS

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Canadian dollar ($)

Language

English

Visas

Not required for visitors from the US, the Commonwealth and most of Western Europe for stays up to 180 days. Required by citizens of 130 other countries.

Money

ATMs widely available. Credit cards accepted in most hotels and restaurants.

Cell Phones

Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked European and Australian GSM cell phones. Other phones must be set to roaming.

Time

Pacific Time in most of BC and the Yukon (GMT/UTC minus eight hours); Mountain Time in Alberta (GMT/UTC minus seven hours)

When to Go

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High Season (Jun-Aug)

A Sunshine and warm weather prevail throughout the region.

A Accommodations prices reach a peak, sometimes 50% above low season.

A Festivals and farmers markets abound in communities large and small.

Shoulder (Apr & May, Sep & Oct)

A Temperatures are cool but comfortable; rain is typical.

A Crowds and accommodations prices reduced.

A Hours for attractions outside cities are often reduced.

Low Season (Nov–Mar)

A Snow and cold (below freezing) temperatures, especially in the north.

A The year’s best hotel rates, except in ski resorts.

A Outside resorts and cities, visitor attractions may be closed.

Useful Websites

Hello BC (www.hellobc.com) The province’s official Destination BC visitor website profiles regions and attractions and has an accommodations booking service.

Tourism Alberta (www.travelalberta.com) Official visitor site for the province, with downloadable resources and accommodations listings.

Tourism Yukon (www.travelyukon.com) Official Yukon visitor site, packed with inspiring images and suggested experiences to help with planning a trip.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/canada/british-columbia) Destination information, hotel reviews and more.

Important Numbers

Dial all 10 digits when making local calls. Add 1 to the front of the number if the call is long-distance, even if it’s within the same region (eg calling Whistler from Vancouver).

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than $100

A Dorm bed: $30–45

A Campsite: $25–40

A Food court or street-food-vendor lunch: $8–10

A Transit day pass: $5–10

Midrange: $100–300

A En suite standard hotel room: $150–200

A Meal in midrange local restaurant (excluding drinks): $15–25

A Admission to top local attraction: $15–30

A Two drinks in local pub: $15–20

Top End: More than $300

A Boutique hotel or posh B&B: $250

A Three-course meal in good restaurant (excluding drinks): $75

A Car hire: up to $75 per day

A Ski day pass: $60–100

Opening Hours

The following standard opening hours apply throughout the region. Note that many attractions have reduced hours in the low season.

Banks 9am or 10am–5pm Monday to Friday; some open 9am to noon Saturday

Bars 11am–midnight or later; some only open from 5pm

Post offices 9am–5pm Monday to Friday; some open on Saturday

Restaurants breakfast 7am–11am, lunch 11:30am–2pm, dinner 5pm–9:30pm (8pm in rural areas)

Shops 10am–5pm or 6pm Monday to Saturday, noon–5pm Sunday; some (especially in malls) open to 8pm or 9pm Thursday and/or Friday

Supermarkets 9am–8pm; some open 24 hours

Arriving in BC & the Rockies

Vancouver International Airport SkyTrain’s Canada Line runs to the city center ($8 to $10.75) every few minutes from 5:10am to 12:57am. Travel time around 25 minutes. Taxis to city-center hotels cost $35 to $45 (30 minutes).

Calgary International Airport Allied Airport Shuttles runs shuttle buses every 30 minutes from 8am to midnight ($15). Downtown-bound taxis cost around $40 (30 minutes).

Edmonton International Airport Sky Shuttle airport buses run to city hotels ($18), taking about 45 minutes to reach downtown. Taxis from the airport cost about $50.

Getting Around

Western Canada is vast with many transportation options, but car travel is the most popular way to move beyond the cities.

Car Good intercity highways encourage road trips. Vehicles are essential in far-flung areas.

Bus Good public transit in big cities; less comprehensive intercity services provided by private operators across the region.

Train Efficient commuter rail transit in Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton; limited VIA Rail and luxurious Rocky Mountaineer services in other regions.

Ferries Short- and long-haul routes serviced by BC Ferries along the western coastline.

For much more on getting around.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Bard on the Beach, June to September

Vancouver International Jazz Festival, June

Edmonton International Fringe Theatre Festival, August

Calgary Stampede, July

Yukon Quest, February

January

It’s peak ski season, with winter-wonderland views and temperatures below freezing in Alberta, the Yukon and much of BC; the south coast is warmer, with rain likely.

6 Winter Okanagan Wine Festival

BC’s gable-roofed Sun Peaks Resort warms up with the winter Okanagan Wine Festival (www.thewinefestivals.com), where ice wine is the major draw. Saturday night’s progressive tasting crawl is essential.

z Ice Magic Festival

Banff National Park’s spectacular Lake Louise shoreline is the snow-swathed backdrop for this annual ice-carving event (www.banfflakelouise.com/area-events). Dress warmly and take lots of photos.

February

Spring may be in the air in southern BC, but winter dominates much of the region. Dressing for rain on the coast is advised, with thick coats (and hip flasks) suggested elsewhere.

2 Yukon Quest

This legendary 1600km dog-sled race zips from Whitehorse to Fairbanks, Alaska, through darkness and minus 50°C temperatures. It’s a hardy celebration of the tough north.

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Yukon Quest | ALEXCJAMES88/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z Chinese New Year

This giant Vancouver celebration takes place in January or February, depending on the calendar each year, and it always includes plenty of color, great food and a large parade.

6 Vancouver International Wine Festival

Vancouver’s oldest and finest wine party makes grape fans out of everyone in late February with its jam-packed, slightly tipsy galas and tasting events.

March

The ski season is winding up, though there are still plenty of great slopes to barrel down. Southern coastal cities and Vancouver Island are rainy.

April

Spring is budding across the region, but it’s also a good time to bag deals on accommodations and snow gear in all the shoulder-season ski resorts.

z World Ski & Snowboard Festival

One of the biggest festivals in Whistler, this hugely popular nine-day celebration includes daredevil demonstrations, outdoor concerts and a smile-triggering party atmosphere.

May

Blossoms (and farmers markets) open up across the region, while bears are stirring from hibernation. Expect warmish sun in the south, and rain and late-season snow elsewhere.

6 Vancouver Craft Beer Week

Celebrating the region’s well-established microbrewing scene, Vancouver’s top booze event showcases BC’s best beer makers with tastings, parties and dinners. Arrive parched and drink deep.

June

Even in colder BC and Alberta areas the sun will be out, making this the time to consider donning your hiking boots and embracing the great outdoors.

3 Bard on the Beach

This joyously West Coast approach to Shakespeare features up to four plays staged in a lovely tented complex on Vancouver’s mountain-framed waterfront. Runs to September, but book ahead.

3 Vancouver International Jazz Festival

Mammoth music celebration on stages around the city, including a generous helping of free outdoor shows. Book in advance for top-drawer acts.

July

It’s summer and the living is easy for visitors who enjoy warming their skin under sunny skies. It’s also

crowded, which means Banff and Jasper are super busy.

z Canada Day Celebrations

Canada’s version of July 4 in the US is the country’s flag-waving annual birthday party held on July 1. Expect celebrations across the region, with the biggest at downtown Vancouver’s Canada Pl.

3 Calgary Stampede

North America’s biggest rodeo event is a rocking cavalcade of cowboy culture where everyone finds their inner wearer of Stetson cowboy hats.

August

Crowds (and hotel prices) are at their summer peak. Interior BC can be hot and humid, while the rest of the region is generally pleasantly warm and sunny.

3 Edmonton International Fringe Theatre Festival

Canada’s oldest and largest fringe fest lures thousands to Edmonton’s Old Strathcona neighborhood for a multiday buffet of short but eclectic comic and dramatic performances.

z Discovery Days

The pioneer-era streets of Dawson City are home to the Yukon’s most popular annual event, a colorful weekend party of parades, games, races, and movie shows recalling the region’s gold-rush heyday.

z Pride Week

Canada’s biggest and boldest pride event, this Vancouver party includes a massive mardi gras–style parade that draws thousands. Galas, fashion shows and saucy shenanigans keep things lively.

2 Crankworx

It’s definitely summer in Whistler when the ski slopes become a bike park and this massive annual celebration of mountain-bike antics kicks off.

z Vancouver Mural Festival

Taking over the backstreets of Mount Pleasant and beyond every August, this eye-popping street-art celebration has quickly become a city favorite.

September

A great month to visit: the crowds have departed, there are still stretches of sunny weather, and the colors are turning to fall’s golden hues.

3 Rifflandia

Victoria’s coolest music festival lures local and visiting hipsters with dozens of live-music happenings at venues throughout the city.

3 Vancouver International Film Festival

Starting at the end of September, this is the city’s favorite movie-watching event. Book ahead for indie, international and documentary flicks.

October

Fall foliage is in full blaze but temperatures are cooling, while rain is returning to coastal communities.

6 Fall Okanagan Wine Festival

The Okanagan’s annual wine fest (www.thewinefestivals.com) sees numerous events including a Thanksgiving brunch and a ‘wine awards’ spread throughout the region’s autumnal-hued rolling hills.

November

The ski season kicks off for some resorts while southern cities are unpacking their waterproofs.

5 Cornucopia

November in Whistler means this indulgent multiday showcase of great food and wine. It’s also a chance to dress up and schmooze at decadent parties.

December

The region is in festive mood. Temperatures are dropping and the snow is back in many areas.

z Santa Claus Parade

The best reason to stand outside in the Vancouver cold, this huge parade (https://vancouversantaclausparade.com) includes floats, marching bands and an appearance by jolly old Santa himself.

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Santa Claus Parade, Vancouver, BC | SERGEI BACHLAKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Epic Rockies Roll

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10 DAYS

The Rockies are top of the list for most visitors to Canada. You can cover all the jaw-dropping highlights on this grand tour.

Start in gateway city Edmonton, spending a couple of days shopping, perusing museums and puttering around the Old Strathcona neighborhood. Then hit Hwy 16 westward for your first big drive: a half-day weave to Jasper. Check in for three nights, grab a beer at the Jasper Brewing Co and plan your wildlife-watching around the region’s lakes and mountains. Next it’s time to move on southwards via the Icefields Parkway, Canada’s most scenic drive. It’s shadowed by looming crags and studded with inquisitive bighorn sheep that peer at you from the clifftops. Stop en route at the Columbia Icefield and take a hike or truck tour on the Athabasca Glacier. After lunch at the nearby Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre, continue southwards to Lake Louise – take photos and wander the shoreline, saving time for a visit to the equally dazzling Moraine Lake a short drive away. Back in the car, you’ll soon be in Banff. Treat yourself to a fancy hotel sleepover and spend the rest of your visit hiking flower-covered alpine trails and marveling at the epic World Heritage–listed landscapes.

Itineraries

BC’s Grand Circle Tour

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2 WEEKS

There’s much more to BC than its cities; take your time and head off the beaten path on this trip-of-a-lifetime circle odyssey.

Start your journey of discovery in Vancouver. Catch the BC Ferries vessel from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay for the short ride to Nanaimo, where you can sync into ‘island time’ and start to enjoy Vancouver Island’s laid-back culture – it’s distinctly more independent and small-town than the mainland. After spending the night in Nanaimo, head north on Hwy 19, taking an eastward detour to waterfront Telegraph Cove. Take a whale- or bear-watching tour here and check in for a night in one of Telegraph Cove Resort’s restored cottages (book ahead in summer).

Continue north on Hwy 16 the next morning and check into Port Hardy for the night – if it’s still daylight, consider an oceanfront hike. You’ll have an early start to catch the Discovery Coast Connector Ferry the next morning (summer only), but it’s well worth it for a languid all-day odyssey of coastline gazing with the ever-present promise of spotting eagles, whales, seals and more from the sun-dappled deck.

Arriving in tiny Bella Coola, which sits at the end of a long fjord, find yourself a rustic retreat for a few nights in the Bella Coola Valley. Spend your days exploring trails alongside huge old cedars and make the hike to pounding Odegaard Falls. Go for a river float and lose count of the grizzlies wandering the shores. When you leave, tackle the Hill, a thrill ride for drivers, and head east through the lonely Chilcotin area. Stop at the alpine waters of the little lakes along the way, or just take any little tributary road and lose civilization – what little there is – altogether. At Williams Lake say yee-ha to cowboy country.

Turn south on the Cariboo Hwy (Hwy 97), otherwise known as the Gold Rush Trail. The road follows the route of the first pioneers and gold seekers who settled in BC’s unforgiving interior. From Lytton, head out white-water rafting on the Fraser and Thompson Rivers. After these chilly waters, warm up with a soak in Harrison Hot Springs. From here it’s an easy drive on Hwy 1 back to Vancouver.

Itineraries

Southern Vancouver Island Jaunt

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1 WEEK

The BC capital is the perfect gateway for exploring the charms of Vancouver Island on a winding weave that links several inviting communities.

Start with two nights in capital city Victoria, giving yourself plenty of time to explore before departing northwards on day three via Hwy 1. Take your time weaving through the Malahat Mountain region, but allow time for a long lunch in the idyllic waterfront community of Cowichan Bay. It’ll be hard to tear yourself away, but continue north to Chemainus, a former logging town now adorned with dozens of murals. It’s not far to your sleepover in Nanaimo, the island’s second city, where there are some decent restaurants and a popular museum. Next morning you’ll be off to check out the friendly oceanfront communities of Parksville and Qualicum Beach – ideal for fans of beachcombing – before veering inland on Hwy 4 towards the dramatic west coast. Port Alberni is a handy lunch stop, but you’ll likely be eager to thread through the winding mountain roads to Tofino. Spend several nights here soaking up BC’s wild Pacific Ocean coastline.

Itineraries

Sunshine Coast Hop

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4 DAYS

It’s hard to get lost on this easy escape from Vancouver; the area’s only highway links all the main communities in a linear fashion. Drive on and enjoy a laid-back, island-like ambience.

Head north from Vancouver on Hwy 99 through Stanley Park and make for West Van’s Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. Take the Sunshine Coast vessel to Langdale and roll off onto Hwy 101, the region’s main artery. After a few minutes you’ll be in artist-studded Gibsons, an ideal lunch stop – try Persephone Brewing. Check into a local B&B, then take an early evening kayak tour on the glassy ocean. Rejoining Hwy 101 the next morning, continue on to Sechelt and consider a shoreline forest hike in Porpoise Bay Provincial Park. If you’re lucky you’ll also catch the summertime Farmers & Artisans Market, a great way to meet the locals. Stay in a waterfront B&B here, then hit the road early the next morning. You’ll have a short ferry hop before arriving in Powell River. The area’s top town, it combines old-school heritage and a funky young population. Stick around for a day or two of hiking and mountain biking, and be sure to toast your trip at Townsite Brewing.

Itineraries

Due North

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6 DAYS

Southern BC lures the lion’s share of visitors, but the north will always be calling your name. Dive in with this scenic weave.

From downtown Vancouver, drive through Stanley Park on Hwy 1 then join Hwy 99 northwards to Whistler. Spend the afternoon hiking or biking the summer trails and check into one of the resort’s grand hotels. Next morning continue north via Pemberton; keep your eyes peeled for towering Mt Currie. You’re now in the heart of cowboy country, but it’s probably too late to swap your car for a horse. After a five-hour drive, stop for two nights in a Williams Lake motel. Time your visit for the rodeo and you’ll have a blast, or book a local white-water rafting tour. Next hit Hwy 97 towards Prince George – the heart of northern BC’s logging country is about three hours away but stop off – via Hwy 26 – at Barkerville, an evocative recreation of an old pioneer town. After a Prince George layover, start early on the four-hour Yellowhead Hwy drive to Smithers, an artsy little town with cool sleepover options. Your final four-hour drive the next day delivers you eastward to Prince Rupert, northern BC’s loveliest town.

Itineraries

Yukon Bound

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2 WEEKS

The best way to experience the north is to hop in a car and immerse yourself in some rugged Yukon-flavored wilderness.

Spend two days exploring Prince Rupert – the Museum of Northern BC and North Pacific Cannery are must sees – before rolling onto an Alaska Marine Highway ferry to Haines, AK. It’s a two-day odyssey for which cruise ships charge a comparative arm and leg. Back on dry land, spend a night in Haines, AK. From here you’ll be (almost) on the doorstep of one of the world’s largest protected wildernesses. Around 250km away via the BC town of Haines Junction, Kluane National Park & Reserve is a vast World Heritage–listed realm of glaciers and mountains. Weave through the park and cross briefly again into Alaska to access the Top of the World Hwy. Continue on your merry way to Dawson City, Yukon’s coolest old-school town. Stick around for two nights to enjoy the historic ambience, then head south on the Klondike Hwy for 538km to Whitehorse, the territory’s capital. There are enough museums and galleries here to keep you occupied for another Yukon night.

Plan Your Trip

National & Regional Parks

Canada-bound visitors often imagine towering sawtooth peaks, huge mirrored lakes and wildlife-packed forests, but what they’re really imagining is British Columbia, the Rockies and the Yukon, home of the country’s most awe-inspiring landscapes. From Unesco World Heritage sites to little-known expanses of wilderness, here’s how to explore this region’s awesome natural wonders.

Best Parks for...

Hiking

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, Banff, Jasper and Waterton Lakes National Parks

Skiing

Banff National Park, Strathcona, Mt Seymour and Cypress Provincial Parks

Rock Climbing

Kootenay National Park, Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park

Wildlife-Watching

Jasper, Banff, Wood Buffalo and Yoho National Parks

Kayaking

Gwaii Haanas and Gulf Islands National Park Reserves, Bowron Lake Provincial Park

World Heritage Sites

Banff, Jasper and Yoho National Parks, Dinosaur Provincial Park

National Historic Sites

Banff Park Museum, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, Gulf of Georgia Cannery

Where to Go

National Parks

These carefully protected parks of national and internationally recognized importance are the region’s must-see attractions. They typically have excellent visitor centers and do all they can to maintain a successful balance between wilderness preservation and enabling tourist access.

Banff was designated Canada’s first national park in 1885 and it remains its most popular, drawing in more than five million annual visitors. But its grand size means you can still escape into the backcountry and be wowed by its sheer-faced, glacier-cut peaks. It’s often compared to its smaller sibling Jasper to the north. While Banff offers close proximity to dramatic mountains lapped by ethereally blue lakes, Jasper is the region’s center for watching incredible wildlife in its natural setting. And by wildlife, we mean the epic kind: bears, wolves, moose et al. That’s not to say there isn’t great mountain scenery in Jasper or wildlife aplenty in Banff, of course, but knowing this difference may help you choose between the two, if you have to.

High alpine adventure awaits around Rogers Pass in BC’s Glacier National Park, while the highlights of craggy and uncrowded Yoho National Park include spectacular glacier-fed lakes such as O’Hara and Emerald.

In BC’s Kootenays region a multitude of microclimates are crammed into the comparatively tiny Kootenay National Park, which straddles the border between BC and Alberta. Gateway town Radium Hot Springs is an ideal spot for a soak. Alternatively consider Mt Revelstoke National Park, where you can hike wildlife-studded trails to the summit for views over the Selkirks.

Alberta is home to three other visually thrilling national parks: sublimely tranquil Waterton Lakes, with its off-the-beaten-path location and network of alpine day hikes; giant Wood Buffalo, where the world’s last free-roaming herd of wood bison hang out; and Elk Island, a comparatively small park close to Edmonton that bristles with elk and plains bison.

The Yukon has two remote national parks: Vuntut and Ivvavik.

These are also national park reserves in BC and the Yukon. These are areas that have been earmarked as national parks, pending the settlement of indigenous land claims. They are managed in much the same way as national parks, with entry fees, visitor centers, and various environmental rules and regulations.

For more information on the region’s national parks and national park reserves, visit the Parks Canada website (www.pc.gc.ca). Pick up a copy also of Lonely Planet’s Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks guide.

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Banff National Park, Alberta | JEFF R CLOW / GETTY IMAGES ©

Provincial & Territorial Parks

Alberta has more than 500 provincial parks and protected areas (see www.albertaparks.ca for listings), while BC is home to almost double that number (visit www.bcparks.ca for information). Among the highlights are Alberta’s fossil-rich Dinosaur Provincial Park, and Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park with its fascinating 3000-year-old aboriginal artworks.

The Yukon Territory’s large parks (described in detail at www.env.gov.yk.ca) are called ‘territorial parks.’ These include the rugged, bird-studded Herschel Island Territorial Park, also known as Qikiqtaruk to the native people who still hold it sacred, and Tombstone Territorial Park, a wild and windswept area of broad tundra-cloaked valleys and jaw-dropping hiking trails.

Alongside the region’s provincial and territorial parks systems, there are hundreds of city parks and some of them are among Western Canada’s must-see highlights. These include Calgary’s Prince’s Island Park, and Vancouver’s spectacular waterfront Stanley Park, one of North America’s finest urban green spaces.

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Yoho National Park, BC | CAIAIMAGE / JARUSHA BROWN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

When (& How) to Go

Summer is the most popular time to visit Western Canada’s parks, but that can mean rubbing shoulders with waves of tour groups at hot spots such as Banff, Jasper and Lake Louise. There are three ways to deal with this and ensure the magic of your visit. When you arrive at the aforementioned must-see spots, head off the beaten path and onto a less-trafficked trail. Secondly, add some less-visited national-park gems to your visit – Yoho and Glacier, for example, are great Rockies parks with far fewer visitors. Thirdly, consider visiting outside the peak summer period. Locals prefer late spring and early fall, at which times there are no crowds, the colors are more vibrant and the wildlife-watching – from post-hibernation bears to rutting elk and bighorn sheep – is often spectacular.

PARK TOUR OPERATORS

Fees

National parks charge for entry, and you’ll need to display your pass in your car. In large parks such as Banff and Jasper, passes are purchased at toll-booth-style barriers; in parks such as Vancouver Island’s Pacific Rim National Park Reserve they’re purchased at ticket machines or visitor centers. Daily fees go up to $9.80/free/19.60 per adult/child/family. If you’re planning on visiting several parks over a number of days or weeks, the Parks Canada Discovery Pass is recommended. It costs $67.70/free/136.40 per adult/child/family and covers unlimited entry for 12 months to national parks and historic sites. The family passes include entry for groups of up to seven people (two adults only).

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Kluane National Park & Reserve, Yukon Territory | ROBERT POSTMA / DESIGN PICS / GETTY IMAGES ©

BC’s and Alberta’s provincial parks do not charge admission fees for day use. In addition, parking fees – which were first levied in 2002 – have been scrapped at most BC parks. Camping fees range from $5 to $25 per night.

The Yukon Parks system does not charge for entry to its parks.

GREAT NATIONAL PARK HIKES

Bears & Bugs

Wildlife attacks on humans in Canada’s parks are rare, but you need to be aware that you are going to be encroaching on areas that some scarily large critters call home. While animals such as elk and deer may seem perfectly at ease with the cameras pointing their way in busy parks such as Banff and Jasper, Parks Canada works very hard to keep animals and humans from becoming too used to each other.

During spring and summer, black flies and mosquitoes blight the interior and northern reaches of BC, Alberta and the Yukon. The cumulative effect of scores of irritated, swollen bites can wreck your park trip. Bringing insect repellent is a necessity, as is camping in a tent with a zippered screen. In clearings, along shorelines or anywhere there’s a breeze you should be safe from most bugs.

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Black bear, Jasper National Park, Alberta | RICHARD WEAR / GETTY IMAGES ©

Driving Tips

Weather and driving conditions can change rapidly in the parks and wilderness areas of Western Canada. If you’re driving in winter, expect snow. In addition, when you see an animal by the side of the road, the etiquette is to slow down and alert other drivers by using your hazard lights.

TOP FIVE PROVINCIAL PARKS

Try to weave in a visit to some of these parks. You won’t regret it…and you’ll have major bragging rights when you get back home.

A Bowron Lake Provincial Park

A Dinosaur Provincial Park

A Garibaldi Provincial Park

A Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park

A Strathcona Provincial Park

Plan Your Trip

Outdoor Activities

There’s no deficiency of world-class hiking, mountain biking, skiing, kayaking, rafting and climbing in this region, and the experience will likely be one you’ll brag about for years. Alternatively, rub shoulders with the friendly locals and watch someone else do all the work by taking in some popular spectator sports.

Top Short Hikes

Lake Louise, Banff

Stroll around the shore or hit the 1.6km uphill trail to the Big Beehive lookout for a grand panorama.

Stanley Park, Vancouver

A delightful tree-lined 8.8km seawall trail with ocean and mountain vistas.

Wild Pacific Trail, Ucluelet

Rain or shine, gale or breeze, this has to be Vancouver Island’s best short coastal hike.

The Stawamus Chief Trail, Squamish

A short, steep 1.3km grunt up steps and smooth rock (with assisting cables) to the top of the legendary chief, with options to head higher.

Hiking

Hiking in this region ranges from a leisurely wander around Vancouver’s salt-sprayed Stanley Park seawall to tramping across glaciers at the Columbia Icefield between Banff and Jasper. Whatever your fitness, a walk through nature is a must here.

On Vancouver Island, the spectacular Pacific Rim National Park Reserve offers some of nature’s most dramatic vistas, with swaying old-growth rainforest fringing white-sand beaches. The park’s signature West Coast Trail is a challenge, but it’s one you’ll never forget: rock-face ladders, stream crossings and wandering wildlife, plus the occasional passing whale, make it a rite of passage for serious hikers. It links to the lesser-known Juan de Fuca Marine Trail if you want to keep going. Atop Vancouver Island the remote North Coast Trail is equally dramatic but far less crowded – it’s ideal if you like hiking without having other people around. You’ll have a similar crowd-free ramble on the mainland’s hidden gem, the Sunshine Coast Trail.

In contrast, the Okanagan’s Kettle Valley Rail Trail meanders over towering wooden trestle bridges in Myra Canyon. It offers hikers the perfect chance to explore this beautiful valley without having to worry about traffic or steep hills. It’s also a popular bike route.

In the Rockies you’ll find a hikers’ paradise that will blow away even non-walkers. There are plenty of easy short walks at popular attractions such as the impossibly azure Lake Louise – turn your back on the tour-bus crowds and you’ll suddenly feel at one with the vastness of nature. Banff is the hot spot for Rockies hikers and its best routes include Healy Pass near the BC border and the aptly named Paradise Valley near Lake Louise. Also consider migrating to the lesser-known (by the international crowd) Kananaskis Country, or the ample spaces of Jasper crowned by the multiday, above-the-tree-line Skyline Trail.

Those curious about doing a three- to four-day hike through a national historic site that spans two countries should check out the steep and difficult Chilkoot Trail, half in Alaska and half in the extreme northwest corner of BC. It’s still lined with the detritus of those who desperately tried to seek their fortune during the gold rush. Further north in the Yukon, Kluane National Park and Reserve and Tombstone Territorial Park offer world-class challenges, as well as spectacles such as thousands of migrating caribou.

Cycling & Mountain Biking

Mountain biking is as huge as the mountains in BC and the Rockies. This is the birthplace of ‘freeride,’ which combines downhill and dirt jumping.

Home to some of BC’s best technical trails, Rossland and its West Kootenay surroundings is a pedal-tastic hot spot. On the opposite side of the province, the village of Cumberland on Vancouver Island has a vast network of varied trails managed and maintained by a local non-profit (see www.cumberland.ca/mountain-biking). You’ll find a similar setup – and a burgeoning local scene – on Vancouver’s North Shore. See www.nsmba.ca for more information on this area. The Sunshine Coast’s Powell River is also worth checking out; see www.bikepowellriver.ca. Visit www.mountainbikingbc.ca for an introduction to the wider region.

Whistler has the province’s best-organized mountain-bike park, with jumps, beams and bridges winding through 200km of maintained downhill trails. In summer the resort hosts the giant Crankworx festival (www.crankworx.com), a pedal-packed nirvana of contests, demos and live music.

Back in the urban sprawl, Victoria is one of Canada’s best cycling cities, closely trailed by Vancouver, which has been carving out new citywide routes for cyclists in recent years. The city has also just introduced a public bike-share scheme.

In the Rockies region, Canmore and Banff are biking hot spots, with the latter offering a good combination of road and off-road options and plenty of wildlife-spotting opportunities. The two towns are linked by the paved (and well-used) Legacy trail and the quieter off-road Goat Creek trail.

If you’re in the Yukon, there are more than 800km of trails extending from Whitehorse.

PEDAL-TASTIC NELSON

Free-riding pedalheads have plenty of favorite spots in British Columbia and the Rockies, but many also enjoy the bikey ambience of just hanging out in a cool community. In the heart of the Kootenay Rockies region, Nelson – which many locals will tell you is the coolest small town in BC – fits the bill perfectly. The historic downtown area is lined with funky hangouts (an after-ride Nelson Brewing beer is recommended), while the surrounding area is striped with great trails, from the epic downhill of Mountain Station to the winding Svoboda Road Trails in West Arm Provincial Park.

Skiing & Snowboarding

If you’re staying in Vancouver, you can be on the slopes within 30 minutes’ drive, while Whistler, one of North America’s largest and best-equipped ski resorts, is just another hour away.

Many would argue that there’s even better skiing to be found in BC’s east, where vast swaths of mountains – especially in the Kootenays – are annually covered by 10m or more of snow. This region now promotes the ‘Powder Hwy,’ a marketing moniker for a series of roads linking the major ski