Lonely Planet England

By Tasmin Waby, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca and 5 more

Lonely Planet's England is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Experience the singular charm of the Lake District, gaze up at the dreamy spires of Oxford, or kick back in a cozy pub; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of England and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet's England Travel Guide:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

What's New feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas our writers have uncovered

NEW Accommodation feature gathers all the information you need to plan your accommodation

NEW Where to Stay in London map is your at-a-glance guide to accommodation options in each neighbourhood

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 85 maps 

Covers London, Canterbury, Southeast England, Oxford, the Cotswolds, Bath, Bristol, Southwest England, Cambridge, Birmingham, Yorkshire, Manchester, Liverpool, Peak District, The Lake District, Newcastle, Northeast England and more

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's England, our most comprehensive guide to England, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Lonely Planet's Pocket London, Pocket Bath, Bristol & the Southwest, Pocket Oxford & the Cotswolds, and Pocket Lake District, handy-sized guides focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Feb 15, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838696276

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

England

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to England

Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time England

What’s New

Accommodation

Month by Month

Itineraries

The Great Outdoors

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

LONDON

Sights

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

CANTERBURY & SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Kent

Canterbury

Whitstable

Margate

Broadstairs

Ramsgate

Sandwich

Dover

East Sussex

Rye

Hastings

Eastbourne

South Downs National Park

Lewes

Brighton & Hove

West Sussex

Arundel

Chichester

OXFORD & THE COTSWOLDS

Oxford

Around Oxford

Woodstock

The Cotswolds

Cirencester

Bibury

Burford

Northleach

The Slaughters

Stow-on-the-Wold

Chipping Norton

Chipping Campden

Broadway

Moreton-in-Marsh

Winchcombe

Painswick

Western Gloucestershire

Cheltenham

Forest of Dean

Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire

St Albans

Stowe

Woburn

The Thames Valley

Windsor & Eton

Bray

Henley-on-Thames

BRISTOL, BATH & SOMERSET

Bristol

Bath

Somerset

Wells & Around

Glastonbury

Exmoor National Park

Dulverton

Dunster

Porlock & Porlock Weir

Lynton & Lynmouth

HAMPSHIRE, WILTSHIRE & DORSET

Hampshire

Winchester

New Forest

Isle of Wight

Cowes

Ryde to Bembridge

Ventnor & Steephill Cove

West Wight

Dorset

Bournemouth

Poole

Lulworth Cove

Dorchester

Weymouth

Isle of Portland

Chesil Beach

Lyme Regis

Sherborne

Wiltshire

Salisbury

Stonehenge

Longleat

Lacock

Avebury

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

Devon

Exeter

Torquay

Dartmouth

Totnes

Salcombe

Plymouth

Dartmoor National Park

Croyde & Braunton

Ilfracombe

Cornwall

Bude

Boscastle

Tintagel

Port Isaac

Padstow & Rock

Newquay

Perranporth to Porthtowan

St Ives

Zennor & St Just-in-Penwith

Land’s End & Sennen

Mousehole

Penzance

The Lizard

Falmouth

Truro

Fowey

Looe

Bodmin Moor

Isles of Scilly

St Mary’s

Tresco

Bryher

St Martin’s

St Agnes

CAMBRIDGE & EAST ANGLIA

Cambridgeshire

Cambridge

Ely

Essex

Colchester

Dedham Vale

Saffron Walden

Southend-on-Sea

Suffolk

Long Melford

Lavenham

Bury St Edmunds

Aldeburgh

Southwold

Norfolk

Norwich

Cromer

Cley-next-the-Sea

Blakeney

Wells-next-the-Sea

Holkham

Burnham Deepdale & Around

King’s Lynn

BIRMINGHAM & THE MIDLANDS

Birmingham

Warwickshire

Coventry

Kenilworth

Warwick

Stratford-upon-Avon

Staffordshire

Lichfield

Worcestershire

Worcester

Great Malvern

Herefordshire

Hereford

Ledbury

Ross-on-Wye

Shropshire

Shrewsbury

Ironbridge Gorge

Much Wenlock

Church Stretton & Around

Ludlow

Nottinghamshire

Nottingham

Newark-on-Trent

Southwell

Lincolnshire

Lincoln

Stamford

Leicestershire

Leicester

Rutland

Derbyshire

Derby

Ashbourne

Matlock Bath

Chesterfield

Peak District

Bakewell

Eyam

Derwent Reservoirs

Edale

Castleton

Buxton

YORKSHIRE

North Yorkshire

York

Castle Howard

Malton

Harrogate

Scarborough

North York Moors National Park

Helmsley

Pickering

Whitby

Yorkshire Dales National Park

Skipton

Grassington

Malham

Hawes

Richmond

West Yorkshire

Leeds

Bradford

Hebden Bridge

Haworth

South Yorkshire

Sheffield

East Riding of Yorkshire

Hull

Beverley

MANCHESTER, LIVERPOOL & NORTHWEST ENGLAND

Manchester

Chester

Liverpool

Lancashire

Blackpool

Lancaster

Ribble Valley

Isle of Man

Douglas

Northern Isle of Man

Southern Isle of Man

THE LAKE DISTRICT & CUMBRIA

The Lake District

Windermere & Around

Ambleside

Grasmere

Hawkshead

Coniston

Elterwater & Great Langdale

Wasdale

Keswick

Borrowdale

Buttermere

Ullswater & Around

Kendal

Cumbrian Coast

Northern & Eastern Cumbria

Carlisle

Penrith

NEWCASTLE & NORTHEAST ENGLAND

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Tynemouth

Durham

Barnard Castle

Hadrian’s Wall

Northumberland National Park

Northumberland Coast

Alnwick

Craster

Embleton Bay

Bamburgh

Holy Island (Lindisfarne)

Berwick-upon-Tweed

UNDERSTAND

Understand England

History

Food & Drink

English Architecture

The English Landscape

Arts

Sporting England

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Emergency & Important Numbers

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Transport

Getting There & Away

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Local Transport

Train

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to England

I was born in London but grew up in Australia, from where England seemed to glow over a distant horizon. England was my go-to for journalism, comedy, music and films. When I moved back as an adult, I walked, drove, cycled, and rode trains across the length and breadth of the country, lapping up the places I’d dreamed of seeing: historic sites, museums, cities, villages and iconic landscapes. This country has shaped the world we live in, but it is also continually renewed by the world that comes to see it.

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Stow-on-the-Wold, the Cotswolds | NIGEL JARVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Tasmin Waby, Writer

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For more, see Our Writers

England’s Top Experiences

1 HISTORIC ENGLAND

England has been inhabited by successive waves of migrants for many millennia – each shaping the country’s culture and environment in some way. A journey around England will take in the footsteps of Romans, Vikings and monarchs. But this is also a nation of explorers who have travelled afar to bring home new influences that have also shaped its story so far.

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Tower Bridge, London | SAMOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tower of London

Europe’s best-preserved medieval fortress and one of Britain’s best-known attractions, this 1000-year-old landmark has served as a palace, a prison, an arsenal and a mint. Today it’s home to the spectacular Crown Jewels; the legendary Beefeaters, with their distinctive red uniforms; and ravens that are attributed with mythical powers.

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CHRISPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

British Museum

In the varied (and occasionally controversial) collection of the British Museum in London, you’ll see some of the world’s greatest treasures, and learn a little more about how England sees the world today.

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KAMIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Canterbury Cathedral

The fulcrum of the Anglican Church and a place of worship for more than 15 centuries, Canterbury Cathedral’s intricate tower dominates the city’s skyline. At its heart lies a 12th-century crime scene, where Archbishop Thomas Becket was put to the sword after disagreements with the king.

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LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2 CITY LIFE

English cities made famous by films, TV, music and art loom large in the imagination. Each is unique, from distinctive city skylines to the culture of the people who make these thriving metropolises home. Tick off all the must-see sights in London, but also leave time to soak up the distinctive character of England’s other great cities.

Bristol

The industrial history of this former port city has been reclaimed by a counterculture vibe, thriving music and street-art scenes (made famous by the mischievous political muralist, Banksy). Stay a few days and you’ll find a wealth of art collectives, cafes and small festivals that bring out the city’s best.

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M Shed, Bristol | ANDYPARKER72/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Liverpool

The reborn water-front at Albert Dock houses top museums – the Merseyside Maritime Museum and the International Slavery Museum ensure the good and bad sides of Liverpool’s history are not forgotten, while the Tate Liverpool and the Beatles Story celebrate pop culture and the city’s musical sons.

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Tate Liverpool | COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cambridge

One of the two most famous English university cities, a visit to Cambridge is best spent wandering historic colleges, marvelling at the intricate vaulting of King’s College Chapel, then taking a punt (flat-bottomed boat) under the bridges of the picturesque River Cam.

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River Cam and the Backs | CHRIS LAWRENCE TRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3 EPIC COASTLINES

England’s coasts are as varied as its history, and the civilisations that have grown up in each region are shaped by these landscapes. From the wide, watery Broads of East Anglia to the south-facing cliffs of Sussex and the ancient Celtic kingdom of Cornwall, each deserves a proper visit for its unique mystery and beauty.

Cornwall

Cornwall’s dramatic coastline shelters a string of cliffs, coves and peninsulas – with stunning views at every turn. Get exploring, whether it’s to swim, surf or to gobble up delectable seafood at a seaside shack.

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Land’s End, Cornwall | TANIA SCOTT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seven Sisters Cliffs

An epic four-mile rollercoaster walk along sheer white chalk cliffs rollicking along the Sussex coast – overlooking the English Channel – is breathtaking, in every sense.

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Seven Sisters Cliffs | MARTIN VALIGURSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

North Norfolk

Although a seemingly sleepy section of coastline, North Norfolk’s sandy beaches and marshes attract a rich concentration of birdlife, including plovers, curlews and brent geese. It’s also home to stately houses and quaint seaside towns.

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Cromer, Norfolk | RADEK STURGOLEWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4 COUNTRY JAUNTS

Hiring a car and driving through gorgeous English landscapes, visiting quaint villages and epic castles is a highlight no matter what the season. Off the main roads you can meander down narrow lanes of hedgerows and stop to watch the sun set or a bird of prey gliding in the sky above.

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Clapper Bridge, Postbridge, Dartmoor National Park | ALEXEY FEDORENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Northumberland Coast

Charming, castle-crowned villages are dotted around this wild and remote region. In winter you may find yourself the only visitor from out of town, and guaranteed a friendly welcome for it.

Dartmoor National Park

Driving on Dartmoor is like being inside a feature film, with 360-degree views of the moor’s shifting mists and stark, other-worldly nature. Stop at rustic pubs or walk the forested gorges of moss-covered trees.

Cotswolds

These quintessential English villages of rose-clad cottages and honey-coloured stone demand a convertible car and wicker picnic basket. Book to stay in one of the tastefully decorated boutique hotels in the region.

Top Experiences

5 STATELY HOMES

Britain’s best stately homes have proudly hosted royalty, prime ministers, famous actors and poets. Some are examples of architectural brilliance, others hide scandalous stories you’ll only learn about on a guided tour.

Blenheim Palace

Famously Winston Churchill’s birthplace, Blenheim is one of England’s greatest stately homes. After you explore the palace, leave time to wander the magnificent 2000-acre garden.

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Blenheim Palace | FULCANELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Castle Howard

Starring in a host of period dramas, including the 1980s TV version of Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited, this baroque edifice in North Yorkshire is one of the world’s most beautiful buildings.

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Castle Howard | LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Chatsworth House

A treasure trove of heirlooms and works of art, this quintessential stately home sits in 25 sq miles of grounds and ornamental gardens.

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Chatsworth House gates | LIANG MI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6 ENGLAND ON A PLATE

Once an afterthought, eating out is now a highlight of a visit here thanks to a combination of experimental chefs, a resurgence in quality locally sourced ingredients, and the wild popularity of cooking shows – from Jamie Oliver’s breakout career in the naughties to the Great British Bake Off today. The English have embraced food culture with both arms and are holding tight. Your tastebuds will be happy they did!

Afternoon Tea

In England tea is quietly brewed in a pot, preferably silver-plated, and ritualistically poured into fine bone-china cups on saucers. It’s then served with a side of scones and cream, fruit cake or feather-light cucumber sandwiches.

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Scones with jam and cream | SUBSTANCETPRODUCTIONS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sunday Pub Lunch

Ideally eaten in a cosy country pub that has remained unchanged for 100-plus years, the Sunday pub lunch is almost always a roast (beef, pork, or a nut-roast if you prefer) served with gravy, vegetables and Yorkshire pudding, washed down with a tap beer.

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Roast meal with Yorkshire pudding | AMY LAUGHINGHOUSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Modern Gastronomy

Beyond big cities – where you’re spoiled for epicurean delights – England’s best foodie destinations can be found all over the country: from tiny Bray just outside London, to beautiful Cartmel and medieval Ludlow in the north.

Top Experiences

7 ANCIENT HISTORY

England is littered with historic sites to explore, from neolithic stone circles to Anglo-Saxon burial mounds, where you’re cast back to an era characterised by myth and mystery. Roman ruins run the length of the country – villas, baths, mosaic floors and amphitheatres tell the story of a thriving empire, from London to Chester and beyond to Hadrian’s Wall.

Stonehenge

Visitors have been drawn to this myth-laden ring of boulders for more than 5000 years, and we still don’t know quite why it was built. Nearby Avebury Stone Circle is equally beguiling and atmospheric.

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Stonehenge | PICMELODY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Roman Relics

Be it in the ancient baths in Bath, an amphitheatre in Cirencester or marvelling at mosaics in Chichester, you’re never far from England’s Roman past beneath your feet.

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Roman Baths, Bath | ALEX CIMBAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hadrian’s Wall

This 2000-year-old procession of abandoned forts, garrisons and towers marches across the wild landscape of northern England, marking an edge-of-empire barrier against the Celts to the north.

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Housesteads Roman Fort, Hadrian’s Wall | GAIL JOHNSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8 CONTEMPORARY CULTURE

Modern England is a powerhouse of culture and creativity. There’s something about this tightly populated country with its unique blend of colonial diaspora, who now call England home, that continues to incubate fresh ideas and global trends. Make time in your schedule to explore its music venues, street art and art galleries, and seek out its distinctive designers, the latest writers and up-and-coming performers.

Fashion Icons

Yes, recognisable British labels like Burberry and Vivienne Westwood are loved, but England’s fashion icons are everywhere, from vintage up-cycling market stores to up-and-coming independent designers in Brighton’s North Lanes.

Art & Artists

England is popping with contemporary art galleries, from London’s iconic Tate Modern to regional show stoppers like Newcastle’s BALTIC. Its artists and arts scene will never stop inspiring.

Sustainable Futures

The gigantic hemispherical greenhouse of the Eden Project is one of many ambitious self-made projects connecting people with the natural world, exploring ways to build a greener future today.

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Concert at the Eden Project | ARCHITECT:NICHOLAS GRIMSHAW; IMAGE: NICOLE KWIATKOWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Pound sterling (£)

Language

English

Visas

Many nationalities do not require a visa to visit the UK. Check online at www.gov.uk/check-uk-visa.

Money

Contactless payments encouraged; credit cards widely accepted.

Mobile Phones

The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 network, which covers the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand. It’s recommended you get a UK SIM card on arrival unless you have a good data roaming plan.

Time

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT/UTC); British Summer Time (BST/UTC+1) runs from the last Sunday in March until the last Sunday in October.

When to Go

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High Season (Jun–Aug)

A Weather at its best. Accommodation rates high, particularly in August (school holidays).

A Carparks busy, especially in seaside areas, national parks and popular cities, such as Oxford, Bath and York.

Shoulder (Easter–May, Sep & Oct)

A Crowds reduce.

A Weather often good: March to May sun mixes with sudden rain; September and October can feature balmy autumn days.

Low Season (Nov–Easter)

A Wet and cold is the norm. Snow can fall, especially up north.

A Opening hours reduced October to Easter; some places shut for the winter. Major sights (especially in London) open all year.

Useful Websites

Visit England (www.visitengland.com) Official tourism website.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/england) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Traveline (www.traveline.info) Excellent portal site for public transport around England.

British Arts Festivals (www.artsfestivals.co.uk) Lists festivals – art, literature, dance, folk and more.

What’s On Stage (www.whatsonstage.com) Up to date theatre information across England

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than £55

A Dorm beds: £15–30

A Cheap meals in cafes and pubs: £7–11

A Long-distance coach: £15–40 (200 miles)

Midrange: £55–120

A Double room in a midrange hotel or B&B: £65–130 (London £100–200)

A Main course in a midrange restaurant: £10–20

A Long-distance train: £20–80 (200 miles)

Top End: More than £120

A Four-star hotel room: from £130 (London from £200)

A Three-course meal in a good restaurant: around £40

A Car rental per day: from £35

Opening Hours

Opening hours may vary throughout the year, especially in rural areas where many places have shorter hours, or close completely, from October or November to March or April.

Banks 9.30am–4pm or 5pm Monday to Friday; some open 9.30am–1pm Saturday

Pubs & bars noon–11pm Monday to Saturday (some till midnight or 1am Friday and Saturday), 12.30pm–11pm Sunday

Restaurants lunch noon–3pm, dinner 6pm–9pm or 10pm (later in cities)

Shops 9am–5.30pm or 6pm Monday to Saturday, often 11am–5pm Sunday

Arriving in England

Heathrow Airport Heathrow Express train (£25, 15 minutes) is the fastest link to London; Piccadilly line on the London Underground (£6, one hour) is slower but cheaper. Services run from around 5am to midnight. At other times catch the N9 night bus (£1.50, 1¼ hours) or a taxi (£50 to £100).

Gatwick Airport Trains to central London £10 to £20; hourly buses to central London around the clock from £8; taxi £100.

St Pancras International Arrival point for Eurostar trains to/from Europe, with Underground/bus connections across London.

Getting Around

Transport within England can be expensive; local buses serve most remote parts of the country. For timetables, check out www.traveline.info.

Car Useful for travelling at your own pace, or for visiting regions with minimal public transport. Car hire available in every city.

Train Relatively expensive, with extensive coverage and frequent departures throughout most of the country.

Bus Cheaper and slower than trains; useful for more remote places that aren’t serviced by rail.

For much, see Getting Around

First Time England

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Check your passport expiration date (you should have at least six months validity after your return)

A Check current entry requirements, eg vaccinations

A Make bookings (sights, accommodation, travel)

A Check airline baggage restrictions

A Inform your credit-/debit-card company of your travel plans

A Organise the correct level of travel insurance

A Check mobile (cell) phone compatibility, unlock it to use a local SIM

What to Pack

A UK electrical plug adaptor

A Umbrella – because the rumours about the weather are true

A Waterproof jacket – because sometimes the umbrella is not enough

A Comfortable walking shoes

A Warm socks, just in case

Top Tips for Your Trip

A At major London airports, tickets for express trains into central London are usually substantially more than local, slower transport.

A The best way to get local currency is from an ATM, known colloquially in England as a ‘cash point’.

A If staying more than a few days in London get an Oyster Card, fees for using your contactless bankcard can add up.

A Be on guard as pickpockets lurk in the more crowded tourist areas, especially in London.

A Pre-book your must-see major attractions ahead of your visit as tickets can sell out.

A The unpredictable English weather makes a lightweight, waterproof jacket a must-have item.

What to Wear

Sunscreen and a rain jacket (even in summer) are essential items – you’re bound to use both, possibly on the same day. For sightseeing, comfortable shoes will make or break a trip; if you plan to enjoy Britain’s great outdoors, hiking gear is required in higher/wilder areas, but not for casual strolls in the countryside.

Take note that some bars and restaurants have dress codes banning jeans, T-shirts and trainers (sneakers or runners). You’ll almost never feel over-dressed in England, so pack your best threads and dress to impress, if it pleases you.

Sleeping

Accommodation in England ranges from low-cost options like camping (many have pre-prepared glamping options including bedding), hostels and single rooms in pubs and inns, to classic (and sometimes eccentric) B&Bs and guesthouses, recognised hotel chains, and high-end luxury options that deliver all the hospitality you’d expect at different price points. For something more unusual, look into ‘bothies’ in wilder locations (BYO sleeping bag!), or consider hiring a canal boat for a break on a rural waterway.

Money

ATMs (usually called ‘cash points’ in England) are common in cities and even small towns. Withdrawals from some ATMs are subject to a small charge, but most are free (look for ‘Free Cash’). Check how much your home bank charges for withdrawing money overseas and ask about options. Watch out for tampered ATMs; one ruse by scammers is to attach a card-reader or minicamera.

Bargaining

A bit of mild haggling is acceptable at flea markets and antique shops, but everywhere else you’re expected to pay the advertised price.

Tipping

In England you’re not obliged to tip if the service or food was unsatisfactory (even if it’s been auto-matically added to your bill as a ‘service charge’), but few Brits would dare to argue it!

Restaurants 12.5% in restaurants and teahouses with table service (usually added to your bill), 15% at smarter restaurants.

Pubs & bars Not expected if you order drinks (or food) and pay at the bar; usually 10% if you order at the table and your meal is brought to you.

Taxis Usually 10%, or rounded up to the nearest pound, especially in London.

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Pub on London’s Portobello Rd | TUPUNGATO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Etiquette

Manners The English have a reputation for being polite, and good manners are considered important in most situations. When asking directions, ‘Excuse me, can you tell me the way to…’ is better than ‘Where’s…’

Queues In England, queuing (‘standing in line’) is sacrosanct, whether to board a bus, buy tickets at a kiosk or enter the gates of an attraction. Any attempt to ‘jump the queue’ will result in very quiet tut-tutting and hard stares – which is about as angry as most locals get in public.

Escalators If you take an escalator (especially at London Tube stations) or a moving walkway (eg at an airport) be sure to stand on the right, so folks can pass on the left – or expect to be told off.

Eating

Book ahead for restaurants, especially at weekends. High profile restaurants should be booked at least a couple of months in advance.

Restaurants England’s restaurants range from cheap-and-cheerful to Michelin-starred, and cover every cuisine you can imagine.

Cafes Open during daytime (rarely after 6pm), cafes are good for a casual breakfast or lunch, or just a tea or coffee.

Pubs Most of England’s pubs serve reasonably priced meals; many can compete with restaurants on quality.

What’s New

England stepped into a post-EU era slightly less confident than when the Brexit referendum was accepted. The coronavirus pandemic amplified tensions between the north and south and between Wales, Scotland and England, as well as halting inbound tourism. The mood: tentatively optimistic or pessimistic – depending on whom you ask.

Social Distancing

The global pandemic saw changes implemented in 2020 to reduce the risk of virus transmission, and many may remain. Pre-booking tickets – even for free-of-charge events and sights – allows better management of crowding in tourist hotspots. Timed entry and fewer walk-in-only restaurants means less is left to chance and a wise maxim applies more than ever: life belongs to the organised.

Living Greener

England is getting closer to weaning itself off single-use plastics by first banning non-degradable straws, stirrers and cotton buds. Zero-waste grocery stores are popping up all over the country, and big chains are moving to plastic-free aisles where shoppers bring their own containers to fill up on staples. Vegan dining went mainstream, rural stays offer food foraging tours, and minimal-waste cooking is trending at high-end restaurants.

Museums Revisited

The Black Lives Matter movement began as a response to police brutality in the USA but England is also coming to terms with its own history. Colonial statues came down in 2020 – some forcibly, others quietly. Museum curation notes were reviewed and school curricula scrutinised. The Wellcome Collection in London is one of many institutions reshaping its exhibits. A Commission for Diversity in the Public Realm was established by London mayor Sadiq Kahn to consult on the future of landmarks, including murals, street names and other memorials.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN ENGLAND

Tasmin Waby, Lonely Planet writer

England is currently contemplating its place in the world, the legacies of its colonial past and what story it will write into the future. The end of its 47-year long EU membership in 2021 left many questions about its trade and political alliances as yet unanswered.

With air fleets grounded and businesses temporarily closed by Covid-19, the country took a collective moment to slow down and reprioritise. Meanwhile, green initiatives such as better cycling infrastructure were pushed forward by local governments.

The British government also committed to reversing biodiversity loss and many hoped the Covid-19 pandemic would be a cause for reinventing the economy on more sustainable lines, as the country recovers from the devastating impacts. One thing is certain: the only constant is change.

Rewilding England

England signed the UN Leaders’ Pledge for Nature, committing an extra 400,000 hectares of English countryside to be protected for biodiversity by 2030 while individual groups were implementing rewilding projects on private land across the country. Existing National Parks, and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) comprise approximately 26% of land in England.

Slower Ways

The opening of the England Coast Path, a major project to define a walkable route around the full coastline of England, is one of many ways the English have embraced ‘slow travel’ since Covid-19 hit. Social enterprise Urban Good (www.urbangood.org) published maps of London’s best streets, and people are reclaiming pre-existing footpaths between neighbouring villages hoping to create daisy-chain routes for long distance journeys across the country.

Dark Skies Festivals

An interest in astrotourism continued to gather pace in the early 21st century, with campaigns to reduce light pollution so as to better appreciate the sky above us. In England a new breed of winter festival has popped up, focused on all things starry nights. Kicking off in the North York Moors during February – the coldest and darkest month of the year – Dark Skies festivals are also scheduled for Northumberland and the South Downs.

Bike-packing King Alfred’s Way

This new 220-mile off-road cycling route (www.cyclinguk.org/king-alfreds-way) traces millennia of English history, connecting iconic sites including Stonehenge, Avebury Stone Circle, Iron Age hill forts, and Winchester and Salisbury Cathedrals. Named after the King of Wessex, Alfred the Great, the circular trail starts and ends at his statue in Winchester, where he is buried. It includes gravel road, so travellers will need to hire an off-road bike and pre-book accommodation along the way. A dedicated guidebook covers all such details.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/england/articles.

Today in Focus (@todayinfocus podcast) Award-winning podcast from the Guardian.

National Trust (@nationaltrust on Twitter) Preserving beautiful places.

Vivienne Westwood (@viviennewestwood on Instagram) Designer, icon and activist.

The Voice (www.voice-online.co.uk) Britain’s only Black national newspaper.

Daily Mash (www.thedailymash.co.uk) Satirical website providing commentary on current affairs.

FAST FACTS

Food trend: Zero waste

Highest mountain: Scafell Pike, 978m

Average age: 40.3 years

Population: 56.2 million

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DIY Gin

From Plymouth to North Yorkshire, gin distilleries have started to offer visitors ‘distil your own’ experiences to complement tastings and behind-the-scenes tours. Talk about the ultimate travel souvenir: from botanical to citrus to chocolate flavours, you’ll learn how to blend your very own signature gin at a number of boutique distilleries, starting with Plymouth Gin Distillery.

Accommodation

Find more accommodation reviews throughout the On the Road chapters

PRICE RANGES

We quote prices for a double room with private bathroom in high season. But be aware – dynamic pricing means one room will cost more, or less, depending on demand. Hotels in London are more expensive than the rest of the country, so these have different price ranges.

£ less than £65 (London £100)

££ £65–£130 (London £100–£200)

£££ more than £130 (London £200)

Accommodation Types

B&Bs & guesthouses Small, family-run houses generally provide good value. More luxurious versions are similar to boutique hotels.

Bothies & bunkhouses Usually a simple stone or wood building with a communal sleeping area, plus stoves for self-catering. BYO sleeping bag.

Camping From farmer’s fields to proper sites with facilities; an increasing number of places offer fully catered glamping in bell tents.

Hostels There’s a good choice of both big brand and independent hostels, many housed in rustic and/or historic buildings. These are popular with families and groups.

Hotels English hotels range from half-a-dozen rooms above a pub to restored country houses and castles, with commensurate rates.

Houseboats Rent a canal boat and you can explore a section of rural waterway for a quintessential English break.

Pubs & inns Cosy country pubs and coaching inns often offer lodgings from the basic to almost luxurious.

University rooms Inexpensive, functional single bedroom accommodation and self-catering flats available over summer.

Best Places to Stay

Best on a Budget

Low cost doesn’t translate to a lesser experience at many of England’s budget digs. These all deliver on simple comforts, atmosphere and location, but without breaking your bank account.

A NQ1 , Manchester

A Tune Hotel , Liverpool

A Vintage Vardos , North Devon

A Hebden Bridge Hostel , West Yorkshire

A Igloo Hybrid Hostel , Notthinghamshire

Best Eccentric Stays

One thing England does well is eccentricity. These quirky stays mix history with modern flourishes to create comfortable and highly photographable rooms to snuggle down in for the night.

A Rum Doodle , the Lake District

A Covenstead , Glastonbury

A 16a , Winchester

A La Rosa Hotel , Whitby

A 40 Winks , London

Best for Families

Families looking for accommodation with enough room for children, and that entertains them at the same time, will love this list. Choose between a luxury castle or sleeping by the beach in a ramshackle camping ground – you’ll remember these stays fondly.

A Otterburn Castle Country House Hotel , Northumberland National Park

A Lumley Castle , Durham

A Deepdale Backpackers & Camping , Norfolk

A Henry’s Campsite , Cornwall

A Whitby YHA , North Yorkshire

Best for Solo Travellers

Whether you’re travelling in London or the countryside, the place you sleep can make all the difference when it comes to meeting fellow travellers as well as locals. Pubs, inns, hostels and small B&Bs are your best options.

A Wasdale Head Inn , the Lake District

A Gurnard’s Head , Cornwall

A Generator , London

A Kipps , Brighton

A Hull Trinity Backpackers , Yorkshire

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Wasdale Head Inn | DANNY FIELDING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Booking

In the high season (which includes holiday periods like Christmas and Easter), it’s best to book your accommodation a few months ahead to avoid disappointment. Larger booking sites will have availability at the last minute, but you’ll miss out on the best options, and likely pay more for the privilege.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/england/hotels) Find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay – and then book them online.

Bed & Breakfast Nationwide (www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com) B&B listings.

Cottages.com (www.cottages.com) Holiday cottage rentals.

National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays) Holiday rentals in historic National Trust properties.

Stilwell’s (www.stilwell.co.uk) Holiday cottage rentals.

University Rooms (www.universityrooms.co.uk) Summer accommodation in university student halls.

Self-Contained Accommodation

If you want to base yourself in one place and have a little more privacy, renting for a week can be ideal. Choose from small apartments in cities or quaint old houses (called ‘cottages’, whatever the size!) in country areas. Cottages for four people start from £300 in high season. Rates fall in the low season and there’s also often more options to book a half-week or long weekend.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Brighton Festival, May

Glastonbury Festival, June

Glyndebourne, May–August

Notting Hill Carnival, August

Trooping the Colour, June

January

After the festivities of Christmas and New Year’s Eve, the first few weeks of the year can feel like a bit of an anticlimax – never helped by the often bad weather.

z London Parade

The New Year’s Day Parade (www.londonparade.co.uk) in London is one of the biggest events of its kind in the world, featuring marching bands, street performers, classic cars, floats and displays winding their way through the streets.

z Chinese New Year

Late January or early February sees London’s Chinatown snap, crackle and pop with fireworks, a colourful street parade, lion dances and dim sum aplenty.

February

The country may be scenic under snow and sunshine, but is more likely to be grey and gloomy. Festivals and events to brighten the mood are still thin on the ground.

z Jorvik Viking Festival

In chilly mid-February, the ancient Viking capital of York becomes home once again to invaders and horned helmets galore, with the intriguing addition of longship races.

z Dark Skies Festival

Stargazing, deep space virtual reality, ghost walks, night-running, zip-lining in the dark, yoga and mindfulness, and Aurora hunting are among the night-time experiences at this week-long festival (www.darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk) in the North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales.

3 Six Nations Rugby Championship

This highlight of the rugby calendar (www.rbs6nations.com) runs from late January to March, with the England team playing its home matches at London’s Twickenham stadium.

March

Spring starts to show itself, with daffodil blooms brightening up the month. Hotels and inns offer special weekend rates to tempt people out from under their duvets.

3 University Boat Race

An annual institution (since 1856), this race is held in late March/early April down the River Thames in London between the rowing teams from Cambridge and Oxford Universities.

April

The weather is looking up, with warmer and drier days bringing out the spring blossoms. Sights and attractions that closed for the low season open up around the middle of the month or at Easter.

3 Grand National

Half the country has a flutter on the highlight of the three-day horse race meeting at Aintree: a steeplechase with a testing course and high jumps. Held on a Saturday in April.

2 London Marathon

Super-fit athletes, both local and international, cover 26.2 miles in just over two hours. Others dress up in daft costumes and take considerably longer (www.virginmoneylondonmarathon.com).

z Stratford Literary Festival

The top event on the cultural calendar in William Shakespeare’s home town attracts big hitters from the book world for a week of debates, author events, workshops and humour.

May

With sunny spring days, the calendar fills with more events. Two public holidays (the first and last Mondays of May) mean road traffic is very busy over the adjoining long weekends.

z Padstow May Day

Known locally as ’Obby ’Oss Day, the north Cornish town of Padstow celebrates its ancient pagan spring festival on 1 May, featuring two rival ’osses that swirl through the crowds to the town’s maypole.

z Brighton Festival

A lively three-week arts fest takes over the streets of buzzy south-coast resort Brighton during May. Alongside the mainstream performances there’s a festival ‘fringe’ as well.

3 FA Cup Final

The highlight of the football season for over a century. Throughout winter, teams from all of England’s football divisions have been battling it out in a knockout tournament, culminating in this heady spectacle at Wembley Stadium. Held in early May.

z Chelsea Flower Show

The Royal Horticultural Society flower show in late May is the highlight of the gardener’s year. Top garden designers take gold, silver and bronze medals (and TV accolades), while the punters take the plants in the last-day giveaway.

3 Glyndebourne

From late May till the end of August, this open-air festival (www.glyndebourne.com/festival) of world-class opera enlivens the pastoral surroundings of Glyndebourne House in East Sussex.

2 Keswick Mountain Festival

A long weekend in late May in the heart of the Lake District is dedicated to celebrating all things outdoor-related, from outdoor activities and celebrity speakers to live music and sporting events.

June

You can tell it’s almost summer because June sees the music-festival season kick off properly, while sporting events fill the calendar.

3 Derby Week

Horse racing, people watching and clothes spotting are on the agenda at this week-long race meeting (www.epsomderby.co.uk) in Epsom, Surrey, in early June.

z Cotswold Olimpicks

Welly wanging, pole climbing and shin kicking are the key disciplines at this traditional Gloucestershire sports day in early June, held each year since 1612.

3 Isle of Wight Festival

Originally held from 1968 to 1970 during the high point of hippie counterculture, this musical extravaganza was resurrected in 2002. Today it attracts top bands, especially from the indie and rock fraternities. Held in mid-June.

1 Trooping the Colour

Military bands and bear-skinned grenadiers march down London’s Whitehall in this mid-June martial pageant to mark the monarch’s birthday.

3 Royal Ascot

It’s hard to tell which matters more – the fashion or the fillies – at this highlight of the horse-racing year, held in mid-June at Berkshire’s Royal Ascot racetrack. Expect top hats, designer frocks and plenty of frantic betting.

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Royal Ascot | LANA YATSYUK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z Broadstairs Dickens Festival

Charles Dickens, one of England’s best-known writers, is celebrated at this literary festival in the town where he spent his summers and based many of his novels.

3 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships

Correctly titled the All England Club Championship, and the best-known grass-court tennis tournament in the world, Wimbledon attracts all the big names. Held in late June.

z Glastonbury Festival

England’s favourite music festival held (nearly) every year on a dairy farm in Somerset in late June. Invariably muddy and still a rite of passage for every self-respecting British music fan.

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Glastonbury Festival | BENNY HAWES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z Meltdown Festival

In late June, London’s Southbank Centre hands over the curatorial reigns to a legend of contemporary music (David Bowie, Morrissey, Patti Smith) to pull together a full program of concerts, talks and films.

3 Royal Regatta

In late June or early July, boats of every description take to the water for an upper-crust river regatta at Henley-on-Thames.

z Pride

The big event on the LGBT+ calendar is a technicolour street parade through London’s West End, culminating in a concert in Trafalgar Sq. Late June or early July.

3 Aldeburgh Festival

Founded by composer Benjamin Britten in 1948, this exploration of classical music is East Anglia’s biggest festival, taking in new, reinterpreted and rediscovered pieces, and extending into the visual arts.

July

This is it: summer, with weekly festivals and county shows. Schools break up at the end of the month, so there’s a holiday tingle in the air, dulled only by busy Friday-evening roads.

z Camp Bestival

A family-focused music and camping festival with performances, DJs, activities and moonlight cinema for kids of all ages (www.campbestival.net) held at Lulworth Castle, Dorset.

z Great Yorkshire Show

The charming town of Harrogate plays host to one of England’s largest county shows. Expect Yorkshire grit, Yorkshire tykes, Yorkshire puddings, Yorkshire beef…

z Latitude Festival

Popular and eclectic festival held near the lovely Suffolk seaside town of Southwold, with top names from the alternative-music scene complemented by theatre, cabaret and literary events. Held in mid-July.

3 Cowes Week

The country’s biggest yachting spectacular hits the choppy seas around the Isle of Wight in late July.

z Womad

In late July, roots and world music take centre stage at this global festival (www.womad.org), held in Charlton Park near Malmesbury.

August

Schools and colleges are closed, parliament is in recess, the sun is shining and England is in a holiday mood.

z Robin Hood Festival

Over a week in August, the Sherwood Forest National Nature Reserve hosts a celebration of its legendary bandit, with medieval re-enactments, archery lessons and much merriment.

z Notting Hill Carnival

A multicultural, Caribbean-style street carnival in late August in London’s district of Notting Hill. Steel drums, dancers and outrageous costumes.

z Reading Festival

England’s second-oldest music festival. Originally a rock fest, it veers a bit more towards pop these days, but it’s still a good bet for big-name bands. Happens in late August.

z Leeds Festival

Leeds’ major music festival, and the northern sister of the festival in Reading. The two festivals are held on the same late-August weekend, with the same line-up. If artists play Reading on the Friday, they’ll play Leeds on Saturday, and vice versa.

z Manchester Pride

One of England’s biggest celebrations of love and life for the whole queer rainbow happens in late August in Manchester.

3 International Beatleweek

Held in the last week of August, the world’s biggest tribute to the Beatles features six days of music, exhibitions, tours and memorabilia sales in Liverpool.

September

The first week of September feels more like August, but then schools open up again and motorway traffic returns to normal. Good weather is still a chance.

3 International Birdman

In the first weekend in September, competitors dressed as batmen, fairies and flying machines join in an outlandish celebration of self-powered flight (www.bognorbirdman.com) at West Sussex’ Bognor Regis. So far no one’s got near the hallowed 100m goal.

3 World Gurning Championships

Gurning is face-pulling, and this has to be one of the weirdest events of the year (www.egremontcrabfair.com). Elastic-faced contestants come to Egremont in Cumbria in mid-September every year, contorting their features in a bid to pull the most grotesque expressions.

2 Great North Run

Britain’s biggest marathon is in London, but the Great North Run (www.greatrun.org/great-north-run) in Tyneside in September is the biggest half-marathon in the world, with the greatest number of runners of any race over this distance.

October

Leaves turn golden-brown, the weather begins to get colder, and days shorter. Sights and attractions start to shut down for the low season, and accommodation rates drop.

5 Falmouth Oyster Festival

The West Country port of Falmouth hosts this event (www.falmouthoysterfestival.co.uk) to mark the start of the traditional oyster-catching (‘dredging’) season, and to celebrate local food from the sea and farmland of Cornwall.

3 Horse of the Year Show

The country’s major indoor horse show (www.hoys.co.uk), with dressage, showjumping and other equine activities. Held in early October at the NEC arena near Birmingham.

z Cheltenham Literature Festival

Established in 1949, the world’s longest-running books-focused festival showcases the biggest names in literature over 10 days in autumn.

November

The weather’s often cold and damp, suitably sombre for Remembrance Day, while Guy Fawkes Night sparks up some fun.

z Guy Fawkes Night

Also called Bonfire Night and Fireworks Night (www.bonfirenight.net), 5 November sees fireworks filling the country’s skies in commemoration of a failed attempt to blow up parliament in 1605. Effigies of Guy Fawkes, the leader of the Gunpowder Plot, often burn on bonfires.

z Flaming Tar Barrels

Boisterous locals of Ottery St Mary carry flaming tar barrels through packed-out streets on 5 November, while paramedics and health-and-safety officials watch on in horror.

1 Remembrance Day

On 11 November, red poppies are worn and wreaths are laid in towns and cities around the country. The day (www.poppy.org.uk) commemorates military personnel killed and injured in the line of duty, from the world wars to modern conflicts.

3 World’s Biggest Liar Contest

Another whacky event, and it’s Cumbria again. Fibbers from all walks of life go head-to-head in a battle of mid-November mendacity at the Bridge Inn (www.santonbridgeinn.com) in Wasdale.

December

Schools break up around mid-December. Many towns and cities hold Christmas markets, ideal places for browsing Christmas presents with a cup of mulled wine.

z New Year Celebrations

On 31 December, fireworks and street parties happen in town squares across the country, lighting up the nation to welcome in the New Year.

Itineraries

Essential England

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2 WEEKS

Just over a week is long enough to tick off many of England’s highlights. This tour takes in a dozen of the nation’s top sights, from London to the Lakes.

Start with a full day in the nation’s capital, London, simply walking the streets to admire the world-famous sights: Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Sq and more. Then head southwest for one or both of the grand cathedral cities of Winchester and Salisbury. Next stop: ancient history – the iconic megaliths of Stonehenge.

A short hop northwest leads to the beautiful city of Bath, for Roman history and fabulous Georgian architecture. Then cruise across the classic English countryside of the Cotswolds to reach that ancient seat of learning, Oxford. Not far away is Stratford-upon-Avon, for everything Shakespeare.

Next, strike out north for the Lake District, one of the country’s most scenic areas, then across to York for Viking remains and the stunning Minster. End your trip with a visit to Cambridge, England’s other great university city. Then a final day back in London, immersed in galleries, museums, parks, street markets, West End shows or East End cafes – or whatever takes your fancy.

Itineraries

The Full Monty

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4 WEEKS

With a month to spare, you can enjoy a trip taking in all the best that England offers.

Kick off in London, and spend a couple of days seeing the big-ticket attractions, but make time for exploratory saunters as well – along the south bank of the River Thames, or through the markets of the East End. Next, go down to the sea at the artsy coastal resort of Brighton; then west, via Portsmouth for the historic dockyard, to reach the picturesque New Forest. Head inland to the grand cathedral cities of Winchester and Salisbury, and on to England’s best-known ancient site, Stonehenge, and nearby Avebury Stone Circle.

Onwards into deepest Wessex, via Thomas Hardy’s hometown, Dorchester, to reach the wide and wild expanse of Dartmoor National Park. Then it’s time for yet another historic city, Wells, with its beautiful cathedral, en route to the Georgian masterpiece of Bath and the southwest’s big little city, Bristol. Next comes the classic English countryside of the Cotswolds, with a pause at delightful Stow-on-the-Wold, and maybe Broadway or Chipping Campden, before reaching Oxford, England’s oldest university city. Not far away is Shakespeare Central at Stratford-upon-Avon – plan ahead to see a cutting-edge production by the RSC. Continue journeying north via the heather-clad moors and tranquil limestone dales of the Peak District to reach England’s second major city, Manchester, and neighbouring cultural crossroads Liverpool.

Then it’s back to the wilds again with a short hop to the scenic wonders of the Lake District. From the sturdy border town of Carlisle, follow the ancient Roman landmark of Hadrian’s Wall all the way to revitalised city Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Then it’s into the final leg, south via Durham and its world-class cathedral, and then York for its Viking remains and stunning minster, to reach England’s other great seat of learning, Cambridge. From here it’s a hop back to London, to use up the last few days of your grand tour, taking in its many highlights.

Itineraries

The Wild Side

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This is a tour through the best of England’s natural landscape, the inspiration for generations of poets, writers and composers. Put on your hiking boots as we meander through some of the country’s finest national parks and open countryside.

Start at the spectacular Roman remains of Hadrian’s Wall, one of England’s finest reminders of the classical era, where you can explore the ancient forts and stride beside the ramparts centurion-style. Then continue into Cumbria for the high peaks of the Lake District National Park, once the spiritual home of Wordsworth and the Romantic poets, now a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts, with hikes for all abilities, plus cosy inns and country hotels.

Travelling east from the Lakes carries you across the Pennines – the chain of hills known as the backbone of England – to reach the green hills and valleys of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Nearby are the moors around Haworth – inspiration for Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights.

Travel south through the hills and dales of the Peak District National Park – stopping off to explore the great park around Chatsworth House if time allows – then through central England, via Elgar’s beloved Malvern Hills, to reach the classic English countryside of the Cotswolds. Then continue southwards to enjoy the epic emptiness of Salisbury Plain, home to Stonehenge and other archaeological intrigues. Nearby is Avebury, England’s other great stone circle. A few miles more and you’re on Dorset’s spectacular fossil-ridden Jurassic Coast.

Head further west to take in the lush farmland of Devon and the heathery hills and sandy coves of Exmoor National Park, then it’s on to the eerie granite tors of Dartmoor National Park, which offers some of the country’s most bleakly beautiful views. Next stop: Cornwall, for pretty ports, gorse-clad cliffs and sparkling bays. Finish this bucolic excursion at Land’s End, where the English mainland finally runs out of steam and plunges headlong into the restless ocean.

Itineraries

Heart of England

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2 WEEKS

Journey through the country’s heartland, taking in castles, cathedrals and picturesque medieval towns and villages.

Start in London with its famous landmarks. Further afield the gorgeous gardens at Kew, Eton College and Windsor Castle are more must-see sights. Beyond the capital lies old England proper, especially around the market towns of Kent, where Canterbury Cathedral and Leeds Castle are top historic sights. Then loop through Sussex and into Hampshire, where Winchester, the ancient capital, boasts another fine cathedral. Nearby Salisbury jostles for prominence, with its famous cathedral spire dominating the landscape.

Out to the west, Bath is crammed with landmark Georgian architecture, while the picture-perfect Cotswolds conceal a host of pretty towns and villages, such as Northleach, Wantage and Cirencester, as well as stately home Blenheim Palace. On to picturesque Oxford, crammed with college buildings carved from honey-coloured stone, and Stratford-upon-Avon, the home of Shakespeare, leaving just enough time to top up on English history at stunning Warwick Castle.

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Cirencester, the Cotswolds | MO WU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Urban Experiences

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8 DAYS

Outside of London, England’s provincial cities provide a vibrant counterpoint to the country’s tranquil coast and countryside.

Start in Bristol, a thriving regional capital famed for its engineering heritage and lively cultural scene. Then to Birmingham, in the heart of the Midlands, now a byword for successful urban renewal. Continue north to Manchester, famous for its music and football team, where architectural highlights include the Imperial War Museum North. Nearby Liverpool has reinvented itself as a cultural capital with its redeveloped historic waterfront, Albert Dock.

Cross the Pennines to Leeds, the ‘Knightsbridge of the North’, where once-rundown factories and abandoned warehouses are now loft apartments and designer boutiques. But don’t forget the past: go underground at the nearby National Coal Mining Museum. Further north is Newcastle-upon-Tyne and neighbouring Gateshead, former kings of coal, ships and steel, where heavy industries have given way to art and architecture. Conclude your urban tour with a visit to England’s best-known public art, the iconic Angel of the North.

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Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery | TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Edge of England

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2 WEEKS

The southwest of England takes a bit of effort to reach but repays in full with a rich green landscape dotted with hills and moors, surrounded by glittering seas.

Start in the historic university city of Bristol, factoring in the M Shed museum, a walk around the harbour and a visit to Brunel’s groundbreaking steamship, SS Great Britain. Detour to beautiful Bath to wander around the Royal Crescent and Roman Baths. Saunter to Glastonbury – famous for its annual music festival, ruined abbey and many mystical legends. Continue south into Dorset, where highlights include picturesque Shaftesbury.

Head west to Exmoor National Park, then onwards into Devon, where there’s a choice of coasts, as well as Dartmoor National Park, with the highest and wildest hills in southern England. Cross into Cornwall to explore the biodomes of the Eden Project. Nearby, but in another era entirely, Tintagel Castle is the legendary birthplace of King Arthur. Next visit the galleries of St Ives, before concluding at Land’s End, where the English mainland comes to a final full stop.

Itineraries

Southwestern Wander

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2 WEEKS

If you like the outdoors, and prefer flocks of birds to crowds of people, try this backwater route along England’s eastern fringe.

Start in Colchester, with its magnificent castle, then visit sleepy Suffolk, where quaint villages and market towns dot the landscape. Along the coast you’ll discover wildlife reserves, shingle beaches, fishing ports such as Aldeburgh, and the delightfully retro seaside town of Southwold. Things get even quieter in Norfolk, especially around the misty lakes and windmill-lined rivers of the Norfolk Broads. For beach strolls or historic country pubs head for the coastal villages near Wells-next-the-Sea.

North of Norfolk lies the eerie, flat landscape of the Fens, now a haven for otters and birdlife. Then it’s north again into Yorkshire to the heather-clad North York Moors, where humpbacked hills roll all the way to the coast to drop dramatically into the choppy waters of the North Sea. Round things off with a stroll between the castles of Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh on the wild Northumberland Coast, finishing your tour at the historic island priory of Holy Island (Lindisfarne).

Plan Your Trip

The Great Outdoors

What’s the best way to slow down, meet the locals and get off the beaten track? Simple: get out to the English countryside. Beautiful green spaces are surprisingly accessible in England, by train, bus or car. Whether it’s forests, rivers, canals, heaths or moors to visit, you’re spoiled for options in every corner of the country.

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Windermere, the Lake District | GAID KORNSILAPA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Best Hiking & Walking

Best Long-Distance Walks

Coast to Coast, Hadrian’s Wall Path, South West Coast Path

Best Areas for Short Walks

Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, Cotswolds, Dartmoor

Best for Coast Walks

Northumberland, Devon & Cornwall, Norfolk & Suffolk, Dorset

Best Time to Go

Summer (Jun–Aug) The best time for walking: weather usually warm and hopefully dry; plenty of daylight, too.

Late spring (May) and early autumn (Sep) The seasons either side of summer can be great for walking: fewer crowds; days often mild and sunny.

Best Maps for Walking

Ordnance Survey (UK’s national mapping agency) Explorer series 1:25,000 scale.

Harvey Maps (specially designed for walkers) Superwalker series 1:25,000 scale.

Hiking & Walking

England is covered in a vast network of footpaths, many of which are centuries old, dating from the time when walking was the only way to get from farm to village, from village to town, from town to coast, or valley to valley. Any walk you do today will incorporate these historic paths. Even England’s longest walks simply link up these networks of many shorter paths. You’ll also sometimes walk along bridleways, originally for horse transport, and old unsurfaced roads called byways.

Nearly all footpaths in England are ‘rights of way’ – public paths and tracks across private property. Even though most land in England is privately owned, from tiny cultivated areas to vast mountain ranges, a right of way across the land cannot be overruled by the owner. If there is a right of way, you can follow it through fields, woods, pastures, paddocks, even farmhouse yards, as long as you keep to the correct route and do no damage.

Generally speaking, the lower and more cultivated the landscape, the easier the walking, with clear paths and signposts – ideal for beginners. In mountain and moorland areas, if the route is popular there will be a path (although sometimes this is faint), but not many signposts. If the route is rarely trodden, there may be no visible path at all, and absolutely no signposts, so you’ll need to know what you’re doing – take a detailed map and compass for navigation.

Best Walking Areas

Although you can walk pretty much anywhere in England, some areas are better than others. Some are suitable for short walks of a couple of hours, others for longer all-day outings.

Dartmoor

In England’s southwest, Dartmoor National Park boasts the highest hills for miles around, dotted with weathered granite outcrops known as tors. Much of the landscape is devoid of trees and surprisingly wild. Below the hills, valleys cut into the edges of the moor, perfect for picnics and riverside strolls in summer.

Lake District

England’s most popular walking area, the Lake District offers high peaks, endless views, deep valleys and, of course, beautiful lakes. Protected by the Lake District National Park (and often abbreviated to simply the ‘Lakes’ or ‘Lakeland’, but never, ever the ‘Lakes District’), it is loved by walkers, partly because of the landscape, and partly because of the history; thanks to poet Wordsworth and his Romantic chums, this is where walking for pleasure really began.

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Cycling in the Peak District National Park | IRONBELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Peak District

Despite the name,