Pocket Rough Guide London (Travel Guide eBook)
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Pocket Rough Guide London (Travel Guide eBook) - Rough Guides
CONTENTS
Introduction to London
Where to…
Things not to miss
Itineraries
Places
Whitehall and Westminster
St James’s
Mayfair and Marylebone
Soho and Covent Garden
Bloomsbury
The City
The East End
The Tower and Docklands
South Bank and around
Bankside and Borough
Kensington and Chelsea
Regent’s Park and Camden
Hampstead and Highgate
Greenwich
Kew and Richmond
Hampton Court
Accommodation
Essentials
Arrival
Getting around
Directory A–Z
Festivals and events
Chronology
Maps and Small Print
LONDON
London is a very big city: stretching for more than thirty miles from east to west, it has a population of just over 8.5 million. Ethnically and linguistically, it’s Europe’s most diverse metropolis, offering cultural and culinary delights from right across the globe. The city dominates the national horizon, too. This is where most of the country’s news and money are made, it’s where central government resides and, as far as its inhabitants are concerned, provincial life begins beyond the circuit of the city’s orbital motorway.
View from the Sky Garden
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On the Regent’s Canal, Little Venice
iStock
For the visitor, it’s a thrilling destination. The biggest problem for newcomers is that the city can seem bewilderingly amorphous, with no single predominant focus of interest. Londoners tend to cope with all this by compartmentalizing their city, identifying strongly with the neighbourhoods in which they work or live, just making occasional forays into the West End, London’s shopping and entertainment heartland. As a visitor, the key to enjoying London, then, is not to try and do everything in a single visit – concentrate on one or two areas and you’ll get a lot more out of the place.
The capital’s traditional sights – Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of London – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year. Things change fast, though, and the regular emergence of new attractions ensures that there’s plenty to do even for those who’ve visited before. London’s world-class museums and galleries – of which there are dozens – are generally forward-looking places, often re-designing and re-imagining their spaces (see box below), while the tourist and transport infrastructure is generally pretty good, if crowded.
What’s new
London’s museums are masters of reinvention, with even the most established ones rolling out new exhibitions, refits and redesigns. Both an entertaining ride and fascinating insight into the workings of the city, the Mail Rail is one of London’s most appealing new attractions. Older subterranean intrigue can be found at the re-created Roman Mithraeum, while the new extension at the V&A, remodelled galleries at the Science Museum and refurbished Hayward Gallery all provide reasons for return visits.
Monuments from the capital’s glorious past are everywhere, from medieval banqueting halls and the great churches of Christopher Wren to the eclectic Victorian architecture of the triumphalist British Empire. There’s also much enjoyment to be had from the city’s quiet Georgian squares, the narrow alleyways of the City of London, the riverside walks and the assorted quirks of what is still identifiably a collection of villages. And urban London is offset by surprisingly large expanses of greenery: Hyde Park, Green Park and St James’s Park are all within a few minutes’ walk of the West End, while, further afield, you can enjoy the more expansive parklands of Hampstead Heath and Richmond Park.
When to visit
Despite the temperateness of the English climate, it’s impossible to say with any degree of certainty that the weather will be pleasant in any given month. While always unpredictable, English summer days tend to range from a comfortable 22°C up to 30°C, while the winters (average daily temperature 6–10°C) don’t get very cold – though they’re often wet. However, whenever you come, be prepared for all eventualities: it has been known to snow at Easter and rain all day on August bank holiday weekend. As far as crowds go, tourists stream into London pretty much all year round, with peak season from Easter to October and in the run-up to Christmas, when you’ll need to book your accommodation well in advance.
You could spend days just shopping in London, too, mixing with the upper classes in the tiara triangle
around Harrods, or sampling the offbeat weekend markets of Portobello Road, Camden and Spitalfields. The music, clubbing and LGBTQ scenes are second to none, and mainstream arts are no less exciting, with regular opportunities to catch first-rate theatre companies, dance troupes, exhibitions and opera. The city’s pubs have always had heaps of atmosphere, but food is a major attraction too, with over sixty Michelin-starred restaurants and the widest choice of cuisines on the planet.
Rope Walk, Maltby Street Market in Bermondsey
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< Back to Introduction
Where to…
Eat
With thousands of cafés, pubs and restaurants, you’re never far from a good place to fill your stomach. For the widest choice, make for Soho, nearby Covent Garden or East London, where you’ll find everything from Italian coffee houses to Japanese noodle stands. The city’s food scene is global, exciting and ever-changing. Some districts retain distinct specialities, whether Portuguese in Ladbroke Grove or Bangladeshi in Tower Hamlets. London’s also a great place for snacking, with a vibrant street-food culture: Borough Market, Maltby Street, Camden Market, Spitalfields and Shoreditch are all good hunting grounds.
OUR FAVOURITES: The Ivy Café, Dishoom, Duck and Waffle
Drink
Found on just about every street corner, the pub remains one of the nation’s most enduring social institutions and its popularity in London shows no sign of waning. The City has probably the best choice of long-established drinking holes – though with the average pint costing over £5, it’s worth knowing that you can pay much less at Sam Smith’s pubs. Soho and the East End attract a clubbier crowd, so you’ll find a wide choice of bars and clubs alongside good-old-fashioned pubs. For a riverside drink, head for the South Bank or Docklands, and for a lazy Sunday afternoon mosey on up to Hampstead or down to Greenwich.
OUR FAVOURITES: The Black Friar, George Inn, Cutty Sark
Shop
From the folie de grandeur of Harrods to the street markets of Camden and Spitalfields, London is a shopper’s playground. In the West End, Oxford Street is Europe’s busiest shopping street, followed closely by Regent Street – here you’ll find pretty much every mainstream shop you could wish for. Covent Garden is an appealing focus for fashion and designer wear. St James’s equips the English gentleman, Bond Street deals with the ladies, but for haute couture – and Harrods – head for Knightsbridge and Sloane Street. For something more offbeat, or vintage, head out to Camden Market or Spitalfields and Brick Lane.
OUR FAVOURITES: Hamley’s, Beyond Retro, Harrods
Go out
As well as two top-class opera houses, London has many theatres, most of which are centrally located in the West End districts of Soho and Covent Garden, and boasts more comedy venues than any other city in the world. Although you’ll find clubs and live music venues all across the capital, East London is the centre of the city’s clubland. London is also the LGBTQ capital of Europe, with Soho, the East End and Vauxhall the go-to areas.
OUR FAVOURITES: Ronnie Scott’s, XOYO, Royal Albert Hall
< Back to Introduction
15 THINGS NOT TO MISS
It’s not possible to see everything that London has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of London’s highlights, from the city’s famous museums to its coolest markets.
Dreamstime.com
EAST LONDON’S MARKETS Start at Columbia Road on a Sunday morning to enjoy the famous flower market, then dig out some vintage finds around Spitalfields and Brick Lane.
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SOUTH BANK Stroll along the riverbank’s Thames Path from the London Eye to the Tate Modern and beyond.
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GREENWICH Explore below deck at the Cutty Sark, soak up naval history at the National Maritime Museum and climb up to the Royal Observatory in Greenwich Park to enjoy the view over the river.
iStock
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT See the mother of all parliaments
at work from the public gallery; visit for Question Time; or take a tour.
Natascha Sturny
LONDON PUBS Choose from one of London’s classic drinking holes: Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese near Holborn, and Borough’s Royal Oak, are charmingly unchanging; the Euston Tap or Mother Kelly’s Tap Room offer large craft brew selections.
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HAMPTON COURT PALACE This sprawling red-brick Tudor edifice is without a doubt the finest of London’s royal palaces.
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SOUTH KENSINGTON’S MUSEUMS Three extraordinary museums – the Natural History Museum, Victoria and Albert and Science Museum – stand together, so whatever your interests, you’ll find an exhibition to spark your imagination.
Getty Images
TATE MODERN A wonderful hotchpotch of global contemporary art, from video works to gargantuan installations, and sublime views from its extension roof terrace.
Alamy
LONDON’S THEATRES If you crave the glitz and glamour of a West End musical, try your luck at the TCKTS booth on Leicester Square for discount tickets. For new writing, visit the Royal Court, the National Theatre (particularly the Dorfman space), the Donmar or Old Vic.
iStock
TOWER OF LONDON England’s most perfectly preserved medieval fortress and safe-deposit box for the Crown Jewels.
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BOROUGH MARKET London’s upmarket larder, this historic market has an irresistible selection of British and international gourmet goods to sample, plus street food stalls, and some fine neighbourhood restaurants and pubs.
Alamy
HAMPSTEAD HEATH North London’s green lung and the city’s most enjoyable public outdoor space.
Getty Images
NATIONAL GALLERY A comprehensive overview of Western painting, from Renaissance classics to fin-de-siècle Parisian works.
Mark Thomas
BRITISH MUSEUM The oldest and greatest public museum on the planet, with objects from every corner of the globe.
iStock
THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD Quite simply the most impressive view in London.
ITINERARIES
Day One in London
Day Two in London
Riverside London
The City
Day One in London
St James’s Park
Natascha Sturny
Trafalgar Square
Mark Thomas
British Museum
Mark Thomas
Parliament Square. Gaze at two of the capital’s most remarkable buildings: the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey.
Westminster Abbey. Take time to explore the galleries and graves at this masterpiece of ecclesiastical architecture.
Churchill War Rooms. Discover the subterranean rooms used by Churchill and his War Cabinet during World War II.
St James’s Park. One of London’s smartest royal parks, with views across to Buckingham Palace, exotic ducks and even pelicans.
Lunch. Picnic in St James’s Park or head to Covent Garden’s Seven Dials for lunch, grab a slice of gourmet pizza at Homeslice or opt for vegan fast food at by CHLOE.
Trafalgar Square. London’s finest set-piece square, overlooked by the National Gallery and famous for its fountains, fourth plinth and Nelson’s Column.
British Museum. One of the world’s most amazing (and largest) museums, with everything from Egyptian mummies to Constructivist ceramics from the Russian Revolution.
Dinner. Wander up to King’s Cross’s Granary Square and enjoy cocktails and delicious Indian dishes at Dishoom or inventive fresh flavours at Caravan.
Day Two in London
Albert Memorial
Mark Thomas
Kensington Palace
Natascha Sturny
Portobello Road Market
Natascha Sturny
Harrods. The queen of department stores, Harrods is a sight in itself, especially the Art Nouveau food hall.
Hyde Park. Stroll along the Serpentine, go for a dip (if you’re feeling brave) and check out the Diana Memorial Fountain.
Serpentine Gallery. Sample some contemporary art for free and then have tea at the architecturally cutting-edge summer pavilion.
Albert Memorial. Stop by this incredible, over-the-top neo-Gothic memorial to Queen Victoria’s husband.
Lunch. Housed in the museum’s original refreshment rooms, the V&A Café is a visual treat, and serves everything from sandwiches to grilled fish and meat.
V&A. South Kensington is home to a trio of fabulous museums, but the V&A’s collection of applied arts is head and shoulders above the others.
Kensington Palace. Princess Diana’s former residence houses a display of her glamorous frocks, as well as some finely frescoed rooms.
Portobello Road Market. Browse the antique shops or (if Saturday) the busy flea market.
Dinner. Treat yourself to outstanding modern cuisine at The Ledbury or go for a drink and meal at The Cow.
< Back to Itineraries
Riverside London
London Eye
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South Bank
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The Globe Theatre
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London grew up around the Thames, and a stroll (or a boat ride) along its banks is one of the city’s real treats.
London Eye. London’s graceful millennial observation wheel has become one of the iconic symbols of the city despite its relative youth.
South Bank. The views along the river from the South Bank’s car-free promenade are some of London’s best.
Tate Modern. Feast your eyes on contemporary art from across the globe at the world’s largest modern art gallery. Don’t miss the sweeping vistas from the viewing platform.
Millennium Bridge. London’s only pedestrian-only river crossing offers great views of St Paul’s Cathedral and the City.
Lunch. Fill up at the food stalls in Borough Market (daily except Sun).
The Shard. Scale London’s most famous skyscraper and see the city spread out below you – and the hills and docks far beyond the edge of the city.
The Globe Theatre. Loop back along the waterfront, and join the groundlings
for an afternoon performance at Shakespeare’s Globe.
Dinner. Enjoy Middle Eastern flavours at Bala Baya or a Spanish feast at Pizarro, then settle in at one of Borough’s fine historic pubs, like the George Inn.
< Back to Itineraries
The City
St Paul’s Cathedral
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The Gherkin
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Old Spitalfields Market
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From the Romans to rogue traders, the City has more history than the rest of London combined.
Sir John Soane’s Museum. The idiosyncratic home of the architect of the Bank of England is crammed with paintings and sculpture.
Temple Church. Fascinating medieval round church, famed for its effigy tombs and appearance in The Da Vinci Code.
St Paul’s Cathedral. Climb up to the top of the dome of Wren’s masterpiece for a fabulous view across the river.
Lunch. Tuck into fresh, seasonal food at The Café Below, in the atmospheric crypt of St Mary-le-Bow, or pub grub at the wonderful Art Nouveau Black Friar.
Museum of London. From Roman mosaics to Wellington’s boots, this museum encompasses the whole of London’s history.
The London Mithraeum. You can see the head of Mithras – dug up at this site – at the Museum of London, then make your way to the location of the original Roman temple in the heart of the city.
City skyscrapers. Stand outside Richard Rogers’ Lloyds Building for a panoramic view of the