The Rough Guide to Italy (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

Practical travel guide to Italy featuring points-of-interest structured lists of all sights and off-the-beaten-track treasures, with detailed colour-coded maps, practical details about what to see and to do in Italy, how to get there and around, pre-departure information, as well as top time-saving tips, like a visual list of things not to miss in Italy, expert author picks and itineraries to help you plan your trip.

The Rough Guide to Italy covers: Rome and Lazio, Piemonte and Valle D'Aosta, Liguria, Lombardy and the Lakes, Trentino Alto Adige, Venice and the Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Le Marche, Abruzzo and Molise, Campania, Puglia, Basilicata and Calabria, Sicily and Sardinia

Inside this travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to Italy, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Sicily to family activities in child-friendly places, like Tuscany or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Rome.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Italy entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Carefully planned routes covering the best of Italy give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for sightseeing, wine tasting and eating out.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Rome, Liguria, Trentino and Venice's best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to Italy, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, to help to find the best places in Italy, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter features fascinating insights into Italy, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Cinque Terre and the spectacular Colosseum.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Emilia Romagna, Umbria, and many more locations in Italy, reduce need to go online.

USER-FRIENDLY LAYOUT
With helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Nov 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781839058974

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Italy

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor pursuits

Shopping

Work and study

Travel essentials

Rome and Lazio

Rome

Northern Lazio

Southern Lazio

Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta

Turin (Torino)

Saluzzo

Alba and Langhe Roero

Asti

Northern Piemonte

Valle d’Aosta’s Bassa Valle

Aosta and around

Gran Paradiso National Park

The northwest: around Mont Blanc

Liguria

Genoa

The Riviera di Ponente

The Riviera di Levante

Lombardy and the Lakes

Milan

Southern Lombardy

Northern Lombardy: lakes and mountains

Trentino-Alto Adige

Trento

Rovereto

The Dolomiti di Brenta

East of Trento

The Catinaccio and Gruppo di Sella

Bolzano (Bozen)

Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)

Northeast of Bolzano

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Merano and around

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio

Venice and the Veneto

Venice (Venezia)

The Veneto

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Trieste

Inland from Trieste: the Carso

The Triestine Riviera

Aquileia

Grado

Gorizia and around

Udine and around

Cividale del Friuli

Emilia-Romagna

Bologna and around

Modena and around

Reggio Emilia

Parma

Around Parma

East along the Via Emilia from Bologna

Ferrara

The Po Delta

Ravenna and around

Rimini

San Marino

San Leo

Tuscany

Florence (Firenze)

Pisa, Lucca and the coast

Siena

San Gimignano

Volterra

Southern Tuscany

Eastern Tuscany

Umbria

Perugia

Lago Trasimeno

Città di Castello

Gubbio

Assisi

Spello and around

Spoleto

The Valnerina

Terni and around

Narni

Todi

Orvieto

Rocca Albornoz and around

Le Marche

Urbino and around

Pesaro and around

Ancona

Inland: the Esino Valley

The Conero Riviera

Loreto

Recanati

Macerata and around

Monti Sibillini National Park

Ascoli Piceno

Abruzzo and Molise

Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso and around

Sulmona and around

Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo

Teramo and around

Pescara and around

The coast south of Pescara

Inland Molise

Campania

Naples

The Bay of Naples

The islands

Inland Campania

The Amalfi Coast

Puglia

The Tavoliere

The Gargano promontory

The Tremiti islands

Trani

Bari

Le Murge

Down the coast from Bari

The FSE line: Grotte di Castellana to Martina Franca

Taranto and around

Brindisi

Ostuni

Salento

Basilicata and Calabria

Melfi

Venosa

Matera and around

Basilicata’s Ionian coast

Parco Nazionale Pollino

Maratea

Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast

Reggio Calabria and around

Cosenza and around

The Sila

Calabria’s Ionian coast

Sicily

Palermo and around

The Tyrrhenian coast

The Aeolian islands

The Ionian coast

The southern coast and the interior

Trapani and the west

Sardinia

Cagliari

Nora and around

Sant’Antioco

Oristano

Tharros

Bosa

Nuoro

Monte Ortobene

The interior and the east coast

Olbia

The Costa Smeralda and around

The Maddalena islands

Santa Teresa Gallura and around

Castelsardo

Sassari

Stintino and around

Alghero

Contexts

History

Italian art

Italian architecture

An A–Z of Italian film

Books

Italian

Small print

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Introduction to Italy

Ask an Italian where they would most like to live, and the odds are that they will say right here – and, indeed, Italy really does have it all: one of the most diverse and beautiful landscapes in Europe; the world’s greatest hoard of art treasures (many on display in spectacular cities and buildings); a relatively benign climate; and, most important of all for many, a delicious and authentic national cuisine. The country is not perfect – its historic cities have often been marred by development, beyond the showpiece sights the infrastructure is visibly straining, and corruption is rife – but as a visitor many of the old clichés still ring true; once you’ve visited, you may never want to travel anywhere else.

Italy might be the world’s most celebrated tourist destination, but it only became a unified state in 1861, and as a result Italians often feel more loyalty to their region than to the nation as a whole – something manifest in its different cuisines, dialects, landscapes and often varying standards of living. However, if there is a single national Italian characteristic, it’s to embrace life to the full – in the hundreds of local festivals taking place across the country on any given day to celebrate a saint or the local harvest; in the importance placed on good food; in the obsession with clothes and image; and in the daily ritual of the collective evening stroll or passeggiata – a sociable affair celebrated by young and old alike in every town and village across the country.

There is also the enormous cultural legacy: Tuscany alone has more classified historical monuments than any country in the world; there are considerable remnants of the Roman Empire all over Italy, most notably in Rome itself; and every region retains its own relics of an artistic tradition generally acknowledged to be among the world’s richest. Yet if all you want to do is chill out, there’s no reason to be put off. There are any number of places to just lie on a beach, from the resorts filled with regimented rows of sunbeds and parasols favoured by the Italians themselves, to secluded and less developed spots. And if you’re looking for an active holiday, there’s no better place: mountains run the country’s length – from the Alps and Dolomites in the north right along the Apennines, which form the spine of the peninsula; skiing and other winter sports are practised avidly; and wildlife of all sorts thrives in the national parks.

Where to go

Rome, Italy’s capital and the one city in the country that owes allegiance neither to the north or south, is a tremendous city quite unlike any other, and in terms of historical sights outstrips everywhere else in the country by some way. It’s the focal point of Lazio, in part a poor and sometimes desolate region whose often rugged landscapes, particularly south of Rome, contrast with the more manicured beauty of the other central areas. Piemonte and Lombardy, in the northwest, make up Italy’s richest and most cosmopolitan region, and the two main centres, Turin and Milan, are its wealthiest cities. In their southern reaches, these regions are flat and scenically dull, especially Lombardy, but in the north the presence of the Alps shapes the character of each: skiing and hiking are prime activities, and the lakes and mountains of Lombardy are time-honoured tourist territory. Liguria, the small coastal province to the south, has long been known as the Italian Riviera and is accordingly crowded with sunseekers for much of the summer. Nonetheless, it’s a beautiful stretch of coast, and its capital, Genoa, is a vibrant, bustling port town with a long seafaring tradition.

Much of the most dramatic mountain scenery lies within the smaller northern regions. In the far northwest, the tiny bilingual Valle d’Aosta is home to some of the country’s most frequented ski resorts, and is bordered by the tallest of the Alps – the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. In the northeast, Trentino-Alto Adige, another bilingual region and one in which the national boundary is especially blurred, marks the beginning of the Dolomites mountain range, where Italy’s largest national park, the Stelvio, lies amid some of the country’s most memorable landscapes.

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Piazza dei Signori, Verona

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Fact file

Napoleon claimed Italy was too long, and who can disagree? The distance from the tip of the country’s toe to its northern border is about 1380km.

Italy became a nation state in 1861, under King Vittorio Emanuele II, and has been a democratic republic since 1946, when the monarchy was abolished by popular referendum.

The parliament consists of two houses, the Senate (315 seats) and the Chamber of Deputies (630 seats); both sit for five-year terms of office. The country has an elected president, but real power lies with the prime minister, who is generally the leader of the party with the biggest majority in the Chamber of Deputies.

Italy’s population is just under 60 million, of whom almost three million live in the capital, Rome. The country is divided geographically and administratively into twenty regions, of which five are autonomous.

Italy has the one of the lowest birth rates in Europe, and twenty percent of the population is over 65.

The average Italian eats 23 kilos of pasta annually, and the nation drinks a staggering fourteen billion cups of coffee every year.

There’s still a significant gender divide in Italy, with women earning an average of 25% less than men.

The Dolomites stretch into the northeastern regions of the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. However, here the main focus of interest is, of course, Venice: a unique city, and every bit as beautiful as its reputation would suggest (although this means you won’t be alone in appreciating it). If the crowds are too much, you could visit an arc of historic towns outside the city – Verona, Padua and Vicenza, all centres of interest in their own right, although rather overshadowed by their illustrious neighbour. To the south, the region of Emilia-Romagna was at the heart of Italy’s postwar industrial boom and enjoys a standard of living on a par with Piemonte and Lombardy, although it’s also a traditional stronghold of the Italian Left. Its coast is popular among Italians, and Rimini is about Italy’s brashest (and trendiest) seaside resort, renowned for its nightlife. You may do better to ignore the beaches altogether, however, and concentrate on the historic centres of Ravenna, Ferrara, Parma and the regional capital of Bologna, one of Italy’s liveliest, most historic but least appreciated cities – and traditionally Italy’s gastronomic and academic capital.

Central Italy represents perhaps the most commonly perceived image of the country, and Tuscany, with its classic rolling countryside and the art-packed towns of Florence, Pisa and Siena, to name only the three best-known, is one of its most visited regions. Neighbouring Umbria is similar in all but its tourist numbers, though it gets busier every year, as visitors flock into towns such as Perugia, Spoleto and Assisi. Further east still, Le Marche has gone the same way, with old stone cottages being turned into foreign-owned holiday homes; the highlights of the region are the ancient towns of Urbino and Ascoli Piceno. South of Le Marche, the hills begin to pucker into mountains in the twin regions of Abruzzo and Molise, one of Italy’s remotest areas, centring on one of the country’s highest peaks – the Gran Sasso d’Italia.

the scoop on italian Ice cream

The taste of real Italian ice cream, eaten in Italy, is unbeatable. Gelato is the country’s favourite dessert, and there’s no better way to end the day, as the locals do, than strolling through the streets with a cone in hand enjoying the cool of the evening. Italian ice cream really is better than any other, and like most Italian food this is down to the use of local whole milk and eggs, and a focus on natural production methods and the provenance of ingredients (pistachios from Bronte in Sicily, lemons from Amalfi, hazelnuts from the Langhe in Piemonte).

Everywhere but the tiniest village has at least one gelateria. If you want to sample the very best, avoid places where the gelato is displayed in fluffy, whipped mounds – the volume is achieved by artificial thickeners – and steer clear of brightly coloured ice cream, a sure sign of chemical additives. There’s usually a veritable cornucopia of flavours (gusti) to choose from. You’ll find the classics – like lemon (limone) and hazelnut (nocciola) – everywhere, and you’ll often see newfangled flavours too, with the current trend for savoury gelato reaching even small-town gelaterie. Anyone for a scoop of Gorgonzola?

The south proper begins with the region of Campania, whose capital, Naples, is a unique, unforgettable city, the spiritual heart of the Italian south. It’s close to some of Italy’s finest ancient sites in Pompeii and Herculaneum, not to mention the country’s most spectacular stretch of coast around Amalfi and the islands in its bay, most famously Capri. Basilicata and Calabria, which make up the instep and toe of Italy’s boot, are harder territory but still rewarding, the emphasis less on art, more on the landscape and quiet, relatively unspoilt coastlines. Puglia, the heel of Italy, has underrated pleasures, too, notably the landscape of its Gargano peninsula, the souk-like qualities of its capital, Bari, and the Baroque glories of Lecce in the far south. As for Sicily, the island is really a place apart, with a wide mixture of attractions ranging from some of the finest preserved Hellenistic treasures in Europe to a couple of Italy’s most appealing beach resorts in Taormina and Cefalù, not to mention some gorgeous upland scenery. Come this far south and you’re closer to Africa than Milan, and it shows in the climate, the architecture and the cooking, with couscous featuring on many menus in the west of the island. Sardinia, too, feels far removed from the Italian mainland, especially in its relatively undiscovered interior, although you may be content just to laze on its fine beaches, which are among Italy’s best.

Italian football

Calcio – football, or soccer – is Italy’s national sport, and enjoys a big following across the country. It’s usually possible to get tickets to see one of the top sides – as long as they’re not playing each other – and it’s one of the best introductions to modern Italian culture you’ll find.

Since World War II, Italian football has been dominated by Inter and AC Milan (of Milan) and Juventus (Turin), who have between them won the scudetto or Serie A (Italy’s premier division) 70 times. It’s a testament to the English origins of the game that AC Milan, as well as another big club, Genoa, continue to use anglicized names, and to sport the cross of St George in their insignia. Unfortunately, the other thing that has been copied from the English is hooliganism, which remains a problem in Italian football, along with a latent degree of racism, and, perhaps most notoriously, corruption – the country has been hit by scandal after scandal, most recently the match-fixing Last Bet controversy, which has seen over a hundred people investigated since 2011, among them high-profile footballers. As well as Juventus, AC Milan and Inter, the two Rome clubs, AS Roma and to a lesser extent SS Lazio, regularly do well, although Lazio’s star has faded in recent years and their fans are perceived as among the worst examples of Italy’s right-wing lunatic fringe. In Tuscany, Fiorentina reckon themselves a big club, while in the south Napoli are beginning to relive their Eighties glory days, when they were led by Diego Maradona, although they still struggle to fill their giant eighty-thousand capacity stadium. We’ve given details of the big city clubs in the Guide, but wherever you are, grab one of Italy’s three sports papers – Gazzetta dello Sport, Corriere dello Sport and Tuttosport – to see what’s on.

When to go

If you’re planning to visit popular areas, especially beach resorts, avoid July and especially August, when the weather can be too hot and the crowds at their most congested. In August, when most Italians are on holiday, you can expect the crush to be especially bad in the resorts, and the scene in the major historic cities – Rome, Florence, Venice – to be slightly artificial, as the only people around are fellow tourists. The nicest time to visit, in terms of the weather and lack of crowds, is from April to June, and in September or October. If you’re planning to swim, however, bear in mind that only the south of the country is likely to be warm enough outside the May to September period. For more information and a temperature chart, check Basics (see page 56).

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our writers have travelled the length and breadth of Italy over the years, visiting both its world-famous sights and its remote, untouristed corners; their Italian highlights are below.

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Levanto, Liguria

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Hit the beach With 7600km of coastline, Italy is a great place to hang out on the beach. We love surfy Levanto in Liguria (see page 162), rugged Torre Guaceto in Puglia (see page 586) and the beautifully wild Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro in Sicily (see page 626).

Unspoilt towns Nowhere in Europe are there so many towns and villages where time seems to have stood still. Our favourites? The palaces and porticoes of Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna (see page 352), the perfectly preserved village of Pienza, Tuscany (see page 431), atmospheric Urbino, Le Marche, one of the cultural capitals of the Renaissance (see page 483), and the Baroque whimsy of Lecce, Puglia (see page 587).

Ancient places Standout sites include Ostia Antica, Lazio (see page 112), Paestum, Campania (see page 563), Agrigento, Sicily (see page 655), Su Nuraxi, Sardinia (see page 672) and the amazing Neolithic Sassi of Matera, Basilicata (see page 599).

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Piazza Trento e Trieste, Ferrara

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Hot, hot, hot? Italy lies at the centre of the most volcanic regions in Europe, something you can experience first-hand by climbing Vesuvius (see page 543), Etna (see page 626) or Stromboli (see page 626), or, more easily, by visiting the Solfatara just outside Naples (see page 541).

Road trips There are any number of great routes, not least the spectacular Amalfi Coast road in Campania (see page 557), the Chiantigiana road in Tuscany (see page 394), the Alghero to Bosa coast road in Sardinia (see page 673) and the Great Dolomites Road, Trentino-Alto Adige (see page 226).

Underground Italy Italy is full of subterranean wonders, like the amazing Toirano caves, Liguria (see page 156), the catacombs of Rome (see page 83), and Palermo (see page 620), and Napoli Sotterranea, a labyrinth of ancient runnels beneath Naples, Campania (see page 531).

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things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Italy has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste, in no particular order, of the country’s highlights: outstanding buildings and ancient sites, spectacular natural wonders, great food and idyllic beaches. Each highlight has a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

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1 Amalfi Coast

See page 557

Everyone should see the stunning Amalfi Coast at least once in their life.

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2 The Uffizi, Florence

See page 376

One of Italy’s most celebrated collections of art, and Florence’s most essential attraction.

Uffizi Galleries

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3 Neapolitan pizza

See page 528

You can eat pizza all over Italy, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its hometown of Naples.

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4 Vatican Museums, Rome

See page 87

The largest and richest collection of art and culture in the world. You’d be mad to miss it.

Natascha Sturny / Rough Guides

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5 Sicily’s Greek ruins

See pages 626, 638 and 655

The ancient theatres at Siracusa and Taormina are magnificent summer stages for Greek drama, while the temple complex at nearby Agrigento is one of the finest such sites outside Greece itself.

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6 Hiking in the Dolomites

See page 230

The spiky landscape of the Dolomites is perfect hiking country, covered in dramatic long-distance trails.

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7 Matera

See page 599

A truly unique city, sliced by a ravine containing thousands of Sassi – cave dwellings that were inhabited until the 1950s.

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8 Basilica di San Francesco, Assisi

See page 478

The burial place of St Francis and one of Italy’s greatest church buildings, with frescoes by Giotto and Simone Martini.

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9 Centro storico, Rome

See page 67

There’s so much to see in Rome that wandering the city’s fantastic old centre can yield a surprise at every turn, whether it’s an ancient statue, a marvellous Baroque fountain or a bustling piazza.

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10 The Last Supper, Milan

See page 181

Leonardo da Vinci’s mural for the wall of Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the world’s most resonant images.

Copyright (c) 2018 Yuri Turkov/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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11 Lecce

See page 587

This exuberant city of Baroque architecture and opulent churches is one of the must-sees of the Italian South.

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12 Piazza San Marco, Venice

See page 259

Crowded or not, this is one of Europe’s grandest urban spaces and home to Italy’s most exotic cathedral.

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13 LAKE COMO

See page 200

If you can escape the hordes, Como in the Italian Lakes region is utterly beguiling, with stunning scenery and plenty of activities.

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14 Giotto’s frescoes, Padua

See page 291

The artist’s frescoes in Padua’s Cappella degli Scrovegni constitute one of the great works of European art.

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15 Agriturismi

See page 49

Farmstays and rural retreats are one of Italy’s lesser-known specialities and can be among the country’s most spectacular and bucolic places to stay.

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16 Sardinia’s beaches

See page 685

There are plenty of places to sun-worship in Italy, but Sardinia’s coastline ranks among the most beautiful.

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17 Duomo, Florence

See page 373

Florence’s cathedral dome is instantly recognizable – and is one of the world’s most significant engineering feats.

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18 Urbino

See page 483

This so-called ideal city and art capital, created by Federico da Montefeltro, the ultimate Renaissance man, is one of the most memorable of all Italian provincial cities.

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19 Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo

See page 515

Italy’s third-largest national park, and probably its wildest, with marvellous walking and wildlife.

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20 Pompeii and Herculaneum

See page 543 and 542

Probably the two best-preserved Roman sites in the country, destroyed and at the same time preserved by the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Italy is a large and complex destination and you can’t hope to savour it all on one visit; indeed, experiencing and appreciating the country properly, in all its aspects, is arguably a lifetime’s work. Nonetheless sooner or later you are going to need to decide on where to go; we’ve put together a few itineraries to help you out. The trips below give a flavour of what the country has to offer and what we can plan and book for you at www.roughguides.com/trips.

FOODIES’ ITALY

Think of Italy and you think of food, and with so many regional variations you can try something different everywhere you go.

1 Alba, Piemonte If you’re here at the right time of year you may be able to sample the town’s extraordinary white truffles; and at any time you can taste the excellent local wine. See page 129

2 Genoa, Liguria The food of Liguria, and in particular Genoa, is among the country’s most distinctive: the home of pesto, focaccia, farinata and great fish and seafood. See page 143

3 Bologna, Emilia-Romagna Regarded as the culinary capital of Italy and by far the best place to take a course in mastering Italian cuisine. See page 335

4 Rome The cucina povera of Rome isn’t the country’s best-known regional cuisine, but it’s one of the tastiest, with gutsy pasta dishes and a focus on offal and the poorer cuts of meat – perfect for the more adventurous foodie. See page 63

5 Naples, Campania Taste pizza in the city where it was invented. See page 527

6 Sicily With Arabic, Spanish and Greek culinary influences, Sicily’s cuisine is unique, and there are plenty of tempting specialities to sample, from caponata to cannoli. See page 616

ITALY OUTDOORS: mountains and water

Italy has a wonderful mix of high mountains, lakes and sea, making it the ideal country for an outdoor holiday.

1 Gran Paradiso, Valle d’Aosta Some of the most beautiful and best-organized high-altitude trekking in the country. See page 137

2 Alta Via, Liguria This long-distance high-level hiking trail takes you the length of Liguria, and offers a very different view of the region than the resorts on the coast. See page 158

3 Riva del Garda, Lombardy There’s no better place in the country for quality windsurfing and sailing. See page 221

4 Vie ferrate, Trentino-Alto Adige High-altitude climbing the Italian way, using the fixed ladders and pegs of the northern Dolomites. See page 235

5 Gran Sasso, Abruzzo The Gran Sasso national park holds the highest peaks of the Apennines, including the 2900m Corno Grande. See page 511

6 Porto Pollo, Sardinia Sardinia’s northern Costa Smeralda is the home of all manner of waterborne activities, not least fantastic opportunities for kitesurfing. See page 681

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ITALY INDOORS: art and culture

No country in the world boasts the same volume of cultural artefacts, and you can stumble across great art displayed in fine historic buildings just about anywhere – or follow our tailored cultural itinerary below.

1 Venice Italy’s greatest maritime state, ossified in stone and oils. See page 257

2 Padua, Veneto The amazingly preserved Giotto frescoes of Padua’s Scrovegni chapel, dating back to the fourteenth century, are one of the absolute highlights of Western European art. See page 289

3 Arezzo, Tuscany Home to a hugely famous fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca, and to other works by the fifteenth-century painter. See page 436

4 Florence Birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, with Ghiberti’s famous bronze door, Brunelleschi’s dome, and, er, the Uffizi too. See page 370

5 Assisi, Umbria Assisi’s basilica is covered top to toe with fourteenth-century frescoes – one of the greatest artworks you can see in a church. See page 457

6 Rome Where to start? One of the great things about Rome is the chance to see some of the world’s greatest paintings in the places they were meant for – best of all are the many works by Caravaggio that remain in the city. See page 63

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Basics

Getting there

There are regular direct flights to Italy from the UK and the US, while airlines from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa fly via Asian or European cities. Price-comparison sites such as http://skyscanner.net and http://edreams.com are invaluable for bargain-hunting, though it can sometimes be cheaper to make bookings direct through an operator’s website. Rail connections with the rest of Europe are also good and link well into the comprehensive national network.

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Shopfront in Verona

andrearoad

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Of the scheduled airlines flying to Italy, British Airways (http://ba.com) has direct flights year-round to Rome Fiumicino, Milan Linate, Milan Malpensa, Palermo, Turin, Bologna, Bergamo, Naples, Pisa, Venice, Brindisi, Florence and Verona. There are summer-only flights to Cagliari, Genoa, Catania and Olbia. Alitalia has direct flights year-round to all the above, plus Trieste, Alghero, Lamezia Terme, Perugia and Pescara. The majority of the routes are from London, and flights from UK provincial airports have been severely cut back following the pandemic, but it is always worth checking to see if there are flights from your local airport. Of the low-cost carriers, easyJet (http://easyjet.com), TUI (http://tui.co.uk), Jet2 (http://jet2.com), flybe (http://flybe.com), Norwegian Air (http://norwegian.com) and Ryanair (http://ryanair.com) fly from London, Dublin and numerous smaller airports to bases throughout Italy and its islands. From Ireland, Aer Lingus has direct flights from Dublin to Milan Malpensa and Linate, Naples, Pisa, Rome Fiumicino, Venice and Verona.

Prices depend on how far in advance you book, the popularity of the destination, and the season: unless you book well in advance, flying between June and September will cost more than in the depths of winter (excluding Christmas and New Year). Note also that it is generally more expensive to fly at weekends. Book far enough in advance with one of the low-cost airlines and you can pick up a return ticket on the cheap, even in summer.

Flights from the US and Canada

Between them, Delta (http://delta.com), Alitalia (http://alitalia.com) and American Airlines (http://aa.com) offer daily flights from New York, Boston, Atlanta, Los Angeles, Miami and Chicago to Rome and Milan; one short layover greatly extends the network. Air Canada (http://aircanada.com) has nonstop flights Montreal to Rome. In addition, many European carriers fly to Italy (via their capitals) from all major US and Canadian cities – for example British Airways (http://ba.com) via London, Lufthansa (http://lufthansa.com) via Frankfurt and KLM (http://klm.com) via Amsterdam.

A better kind of travel

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

There are no nonstop flights to Italy from Australia or New Zealand. From either country you are likely to get most flexibility by travelling with Malaysia Airlines (http://malaysiaairlines.com), Emirates (http://emirates.com), British Airways (http://ba.com.fly) or Qantas (http://qantas.com.au).

Various carriers serve South Africa, usually with a stop in their European or Middle Eastern hub.

Trains

Travelling by train to Italy from the UK can be an enjoyable and environmentally friendly way of getting to the country, thought it almost inevitably costs considerably more than flying, and you can stop off in other parts of Europe on the way. Most trains pass through Paris and head down through France towards Milan.

Following the pandemic, the future of the Franco-Italian Thello sleeper (http://thello.com) is uncertain. If you really want to push the boat out, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (http://belmond.com) runs from London to Venice.

Advance booking on trains is essential (and can often save you a lot of money); there are also discounts for children and rail-pass holders. When booking trains, bear in mind that if you travel via Paris on Eurostar you will have to change stations, so you should give yourself a good hour (more like 1hr 30min if you have to queue for metro tickets) to travel on the metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon. Allow more time for the return journey across Paris, as there is a minimum thirty-minute check-in for Eurostar departures. Note that there are no left-luggage lockers at the Gare de Bercy.

The Man in Seat 61 website (http://seat61.com) offers exhaustive information on travelling by train, with details of routes, times and fares.

Rail passes

Interrail (http://interrail.eu) and Eurail (http://eurail.com) Passes offer unlimited rail travel throughout Italy and other European countries; you can buy them before leaving home for a specific set of dates, but they’re also available at many European mainline stations at the international ticket desks. Italy-only passes are also available (see page 45). If you use a EuroCity (domestic) or Le Frecce high-speed trains, a supplement applies.

Interrail

Interrail Passes are only available to European citizens and official residents. Young people aged 12–27 and senior travellers (60-plus) are entitled to a discounted rate. There are also various promotions throughout the year – check the website for details. Pass holders can use all of the trains run by the national railways in Europe. For high-speed and night trains you will need to reserve your seat or bed in advance, and a fee may apply.

Eurail

A Eurail Pass (http://eurail.com/en) is for non-European residents and comes in a variety of formulas and gives the option of choosing first- or second-class train travel on all trains run by the national railways in Europe. The most popular option allows 10 days travel within two months, but there are also options to travel on 5, 7, 15, 22, or daily within a month. There is no need to choose a start date in advance, and digital tickets are delivered straight to your phone (although paper passes are also available). There are various promotions throughout the year when you can purchase passes at a discounted rate – check the website for details. You will still need reservations for high-speed and night trains; and an extra fee may also apply.

Buses

It’s difficult to see why anyone would want to travel to Italy by bus, and at the time of writing all bus routes from the UK to Italy had been suspended. The main operators were Eurolines and FlixBus.

Package and special interest holidays

As well as the travel agents offering flight-and-accommodation package deals, an increasing number of operators organize specialist holidays to Italy – covering walking, art and archeology, food and wine, and short breaks to coincide with opera festivals or even football matches. If you want to rent a car in Italy, it’s worth checking fly-drive deals with tour operators (and flight agents) before you leave.

Rail contacts

Eurostar http://eurostar.com.

International Rail http://internationalrail.com. Company offering a wide variety of rail options including Eurostar, international sleepers and ferry crossings.

The Man in Seat Sixty-One http://seat61.com. Up-to-date, user-friendly advice on how to use rail systems around the world.

Trainline http://trainline.eu. Train and coach website and app selling tickets on behalf of over 180 carriers across more than 35 countries in Europe.

Bus contacts

Busabout http://busabout.com.

Busbud http://busbud.com

Eurolines http://eurolines.eu.

Agents and operators

Travel agents

North South Travel UK 01245 608 291, http://northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

Trailfinders UK 020 7084 6500, Ireland 01 677 7888; http://trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

Travel CUTS Canada 1800 667 2887; http://travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

USIT Ireland; 01 602 1906, Northern Ireland 028 9032 7111; http://usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists.

Package tours

Central Holidays US; 1800 935 5000, http://centralholidays.com. Offers tours combining Tuscany, Cinque Terre and the Lakes, among other popular holiday spots.

CIT US & Canada 1800 387 0711, http://cittours.ca; Australia 1300 380 992, http://cit.com.au. Huge range of well-organized themed holidays and tours, plus advice for independent travellers on hotels.

Citalia UK 01293 839 105, http://citalia.com. Long-established Italy specialists.

Long Travel UK; 01694 722 193, http://long-travel.co.uk. Well-established company creating tailor-made holidays in various Italian regions including Puglia, Tuscany, Sicily and the Aeolian Islands.

Specialist and cultural tours

Abercrombie & Kent UK 01242 386 500, US 1 800 554 7016; http://abercrombiekent.com. This high-end operator offers art-focused tours led by experts from Christie’s.

ACE Cultural Tours UK 01223 841 055, http://aceculturaltours.co.uk. Specialist, academic-led tours focusing on such subjects as art, architecture and gardens.

Alternative Travel Group UK 01865 315 678, http://atg-oxford.co.uk. Walking and cycling holidays.

Backroads US 1800 462 2848, http://backroads.com. Cycling and hiking holidays, as well as culinary tours.

Context Travel US 1800 691 6036, http://contexttravel.com. Themed walking tours for the intellectually curious in Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Naples and Tuscany, either in small groups of up to six or privately.

Martin Randall Travel UK 020 8742 3355, http://martinrandall.com. Small-group cultural holidays with experts on art, architecture, music, history, gastronomy and wine.

mi.o US http://modernitalian.org. They don’t sell tours, but this online (free) membership forum offers a great way to get objective inspiration and advice on how to plan a trip to Italy, and make contact with guides, experts and tour-planners from all over Italy if you need them.

MT Sobek US 1888 831 7526, http://mtsobek.com. Adventures for keen hikers and rafters, plus cultural explorations, family trips and wellness journeys.

Walkabout Gourmet Adventures Australia 02 9871 5526, http://walkaboutgourmet.com. Gourmet walking holidays from Piedmont to Sicily.

Getting around

Italy is a big country and unless you opt for a one-base holiday you will probably find yourself travelling a fair bit. Both rail and bus services are good value and relatively efficient, while regular ferries service the islands and local buses link more out-of-the-way areas. Internal flights can be worthwhile for some of the longer journeys – and may even work out cheaper than travelling by train. Naturally, you’ll have most flexibility with your own transport.

We’ve detailed train, bus and ferry frequencies in the Arrival and departure sections within the Guide; note that these usually refer to regular working-day schedules (Mon–Sat); services can be much reduced or even nonexistent on Sundays and in August.

By rail

The Italian train system is one of the least expensive in Europe, reasonably comprehensive and pretty efficient. Italian trains are run by Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane (http://fsitaliane.it), under the brand name Trenitalia (http://trenitalia.com), operating a comprehensive network across the country with numerous types of train. Sleeper trains connect the major Italian cities with cities such as Paris, Vienna, Hamburg and Barcelona. Le Frecce, comprising Frecciarossa, Frecciargento and Frecciabianca, is the country’s swish high-speed train network, with trains reaching up to 360km/hr, offering daily connections between the main cities. Book tickets in advance for the best fares. Seat reservations are required for all these services – even if you have a rail pass you’ll need to pay a supplement.

Stamp it

All stations have yellow validating machines in which passengers must stamp their ticket before embarking on their journey. However, if your ticket is booked for a specific train, validation is not necessary. If in doubt, ask. Look out for the machines as you come onto the platform: if you fail to validate your ticket you’ll be given a hefty on-the-spot fine.

Intercity and Eurocity trains are fast and comfortable, connecting main towns, with a number of Eurocity trains crossing the border to connect with European cities. Regionale trains can be very slow, stopping at virtually all stations with a population higher than zero. No reservation is necessary, and there’s no need to buy in advance for these.

NTV (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori) is a private company whose high-speed Italo trains (http://italotreno.it) connect a number of destinations in Italy, from Bolzano and Udine in the north, via Milan, Bologna, Rome and Naples to Reggio Calabria and Bari in the south. There are also a number of small provincial privately run lines, using separate stations but charging similar fares to the FS trains. Where they’re worth using, these are detailed in the Guide.

Timetables and fares

Timings and route information are posted at train stations. Check the Trenitalia website (http://trenitalia.com) for the latest schedules.

Fares are inexpensive, calculated by the kilometre and easy to work out for each journey. Return tickets are valid within two months of the outward journey, but as two one-way tickets cost the same it’s hardly worth bothering. Children aged 4–12 qualify for a fifty percent discount on all journeys, and children under four (not occupying a seat) travel free.

There are huge savings to be had by booking in advance online, especially for Le Frecce high-speed trains.

Rail passes

A rail pass is unlikely to be worthwhile for an Italy-only trip. Prices are low and as you need to have a reservation for the faster trains, the convenience of a pass is outweighed by the extra queues and booking fees.

By bus

Trains don’t go everywhere and sooner or later you’ll probably have to use regional buses (autobus). Nearly all places are connected by some kind of bus service, but in out-of-the-way towns and villages schedules can be sketchy and are drastically reduced – sometimes nonexistent – at weekends, especially on Sundays. Bear in mind also that in rural areas schedules are often designed with the working and/or school day in mind – meaning an early start if you want to catch that day’s one bus out of town, and occasionally a complete absence of services during school holidays.

Timetable reading

On timetables – and parking signs – lavorativo or feriale is the word for the Monday-to-Saturday service, represented by two crossed hammers; festivo means that a train runs only on Sundays and holidays, symbolized by a Christian cross.

Some other common terms on timetables are:

escluso sabato not including Saturdays

si effettua fino al … running until …

si effettua dal … starting from …

giornalmente daily

prenotazione obbligatoria reservation obligatory

estivo summer

invernale winter

There’s no national bus company, though a few regional ones do operate beyond their own immediate area. Bus terminals (autostazione) are often conveniently located next to the train station; wherever possible we’ve detailed their whereabouts in the text. In smaller towns and villages, most buses pull in at the central piazza; timetables are widely available. Buy tickets immediately before you travel from the bus station ticket office, or on the bus itself; on longer hauls you can try to buy them in advance online direct from the bus company, but seat reservations are not normally possible. If you want to get off, ask Posso scendere?; the next stop is la prossima fermata.

City buses are cheap. Tickets are commonly available from newsagents and tobacconists. Once on board, you must validate your ticket in the machine at the front or back of the bus. The whole system is based on trust, though in most cities checks for fare-dodging are regularly made, and hefty spot-fines are levied against offenders.

By car

Travelling by car in Italy is relatively painless, though cities and their ring roads can be hard work. The roads are good, the motorway network very comprehensive, and the notorious Italian drivers rather less erratic than their reputation suggests – in the north of the country at least. The best plan is to avoid driving in cities as much as possible; the congestion, proliferation of complex one-way systems and confusing signage can make it a nightmare.

Bear in mind that traffic can be heavy on main roads (particularly over public holiday weekends and throughout August) and appalling in city centres. Rush hour during the week usually runs from 7.30am to 9am and from 5pm to 9pm, when roads in and around the major cities can be gridlocked.

Although Italians are by no means the world’s worst drivers they don’t win any safety prizes either. The secret is to make it very clear what you’re going to do – and then do it. A particular danger for unaccustomed drivers is the large number of scooters that can appear suddenly from the blind spot or dash across junctions and red lights with alarming recklessness.

Most petrol stations have someone who will fill the tank for you, with some giving the choice of self-service (fai da te). Petrol stations, in particular the small stations in the more remote locations, often have the same working hours as shops, which means they’ll be closed for a couple of hours at midday, will shut up shop at around 7pm and are likely to be closed on Sundays (this does not apply to petrol stations on motorways, which are always open). Outside these times many have a self-service facility for which you pay into a machine between the pumps by bank note or, more rarely, credit card; these are often not well advertised so you might need to go onto the forecourt to check.

Rules of the road

Rules of the road are straightforward: drive on the right; at junctions, where there’s any ambiguity, give precedence to vehicles coming from the right; observe the speed limits – 50km/hr in built-up areas, 110km/hr on dual carriageways (90km/hr when it’s raining) and 130km/hr on autostradas (110km/hr in the rain); for camper vans, these limits are 50km/hr, 80km/hr and 100km/hr respectively – and don’t drink and drive. Drivers need to have their dipped headlights on while using any road outside a built-up area.

Walk/don’t walk

It’s worth bearing in mind that cars do not automatically stop at pedestrian crossings in Italy. Even on crossings with traffic lights you can be subjected to some close calls. Note that when there’s a green light for pedestrians to go, it may be green for one of the lines of traffic too.

The centres of many Italian towns and villages have a Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL; restricted traffic area), where vehicle access is for residents only. These zones are marked by a red-rimmed circular road sign giving the hours and days of the limitation and are vigorously enforced, often by police on the ground as well as by cameras. Note that car-rental companies invariably pass the fine on. That said, if you are staying at a hotel within a ZTL area you can normally drive in to drop off your bags or even park if the hotel has parking, but you must make sure you give your number plate to your hotel so they can register it with the local authorities, thereby avoiding a fine. Double check with your hotel first.

If you’re bringing your own car, as well as current insurance, you need a valid driving licence and an international driving permit if you’re a non-EU licence holder. It’s compulsory to carry your car documents and passport while you’re driving, and you can be fined on the spot if you cannot present them when stopped by the police. It’s also obligatory to carry a warning triangle and a fluorescent jacket in case of breakdown. For more information, consult http://theaa.com.

Note that it is a legal requirement to have snow tyres or chains on board between mid-November and mid-April when travelling on motorways; you will incur a hefty fine if you’re not suitably equipped.

Motorway driving

The majority of motorways (autostrade) are toll roads. Take a ticket as you join the motorway and pay on exit; the amount due is flashed up on a screen in front of you. Paying by cash is the most straightforward option – booths are marked cash/contanti and colour-coded white. Avoid the Telepass lane (colour-coded yellow), for which you have to have a linked bank account. Be alert as you get into lane as traffic zigzags in and out at high speed to get pole position at the shortest-looking queue. Since other roads can be frustratingly slow, tolls are well worth it over long distances, but be prepared for queues at exits at peak times, and rates can mount up on a long journey.

Parking

Parking can be a problem. Don’t be surprised to see cars parked just about anywhere, notably on pavements and seemingly working tram lines and at bus stops – it would be unwise to follow suit. Parking attendants are especially active in tourist areas and if you get fed up with driving around and settle for a space in a zona di rimozione (tow-away zone), don’t expect your car to be there when you get back.

Most towns and villages have pay-and-display areas just outside the centre, but they can get very full in high season. An increasing number of towns operate a colour-coded parking scheme: blue-zone parking spaces (delineated by a blue line) usually have a maximum stay of one or two hours and you will usually either pay at a meter, or buy scratchcards from local tobacconists. Some spaces are free at lunchtimes, after 8pm and on Sundays (check the signs). Meters can usually be fed the night before to allow a lie-in in the morning. Much coveted white-zone spaces (white lines) are free; yellow-zone areas (yellow lines) are for disabled drivers or delivery zones. In smaller towns, to use the designated areas, it’s handy to have a mini clock-like dial which you set and display in the windscreen, to indicate when you parked and that you’re still within the allowed limit. Rental cars generally come equipped with these.

Car parks, usually small, enclosed garages, are universally expensive; it’s not unknown for hotels to state that they have parking and then direct you to the nearest paying garage. Parking at night is easier than during the day, but make sure you’re not parked in a street that turns into a market in the morning or on the one day of the week when it’s cleaned in the small hours, otherwise you’re likely to be towed.

Never leave anything visible in the car when you’re not using it, including the radio. Certain cities have appalling reputations for theft – in Naples, some rental agencies won’t insure a car left anywhere except in a locked garage. A patrolled car park is probably the safest overnight option, especially if you have foreign plates.

Breakdown

In the event of a breakdown, call 116 or the ACI (the national motoring association) on 803 116, who will send someone out – this is expensive if you need a tow, unless you already have cover with a motoring organization in your home country. Alternatively, consult the Yellow Pages (Pagine Gialle) under Autoriparazioni for specialized repair shops.

Car rental

Car rental in Italy can be pricey, and generally the best deals are to be had by arranging things in advance; you can compare rates and book at http://carrentals.co.uk. You need to be over 21 to rent a car in Italy and will need a credit card to act as a deposit when picking up your vehicle. If booking with a small local company, be sure to check whether CDW is included in the price before booking. Sat nav systems are available to rent with cars from many outlets; reserve in advance.

Camper van rental

Camper van or mobile home holidays are becoming increasingly popular in Italy – it’s convenient, facilities in campsites are usually dependable (see page 50), and more and more resorts have created free camper-van parking areas (sosta camper). Blurent (http://blurent.com), and Magicamper (http://magicamper.altervista.org) are among the companies offering new (or newish) vehicles for rent.

By plane

Like most European countries, internal airfares in Italy have been revolutionized in the last decade or so. It pays to shop around and, as always, book as far in advance as you can.

Domestic Routes

Air Dolomiti http://airdolomiti.eu.

Alitalia http://alitalia.com.

Blue Panorama http://blue-panorama.com.

DAT http://dat.dk.

Meridiana http://airitaly.com.

Vueling http://vueling.com/en.

WizzAir http://wizzair.com/en-gb

By ferry and hydrofoil

Italy has a well-developed network of ferries and hydrofoils operated by a number of different private companies. Large car-ferries connect the major islands of Sardinia and Sicily with the mainland ports of Genoa, Livorno, La Spezia, Civitavecchia, Fiumicino and Naples, while the smaller island groupings – the Bay of Naples islands, the Pontine islands, the Aeolian islands – are usually linked to a number of nearby mainland towns. The larger lakes in the north of the country are also well served with regular boats and ferries in season, although these are drastically reduced in winter.

Fares are quite expensive, with hydrofoils costing around twice as much as ferries, and on some of the more popular services – to Sardinia, for example – you should book well in advance in summer, especially if you’re taking a vehicle across. Remember, too, that sailings are cut outside the summer months, and some services stop altogether. You’ll find a broad guide to journey times and frequencies in the Arrival and departure sections within the Guide; for full schedules and prices, check http://directferries.co.uk or the Italian website http://traghetti.com.

By bike and motorbike

Cycling is a very popular sport and mode of transport in much of Italy. Italians in small towns and villages are welcoming to cyclists, and hotels and hostels will take your bike in overnight for safekeeping. On the islands, in the mountains, around the Italian Lakes, in major resorts and larger cities, it’s usually possible to rent a bike, but in rural areas rental facilities are few and far between.

Serious cyclists might consider staying at one of a chain of hotels (Italy Bike Hotels; http://italybikehotels.it) that cater specifically for cycling enthusiasts. Each hotel has a secure room for your bike, a maintenance workshop, overnight laundry facilities, suggested itineraries and group-tour possibilities, a doctor on hand and even dietary consultation. Bikes can be taken on local and slower Regionale trains if you buy a supplemento bici (bike supplement), or for free in a bike bag; on faster Eurostar or equivalent trains cycles must be placed in bike bags.

An alternative is to tour by motorbike, though there are relatively few rental places. Mopeds and scooters are comparatively easy to find: virtually everyone in Italy can ride one and although they’re not really built for long-distance travel, for shooting around towns and islands they’re ideal. Helmets are compulsory.

Accommodation

There is an infinite variety of accommodation in Italy: mountain monasteries, boutique hotels, youth hostels, self-catering villas, family-run B&Bs and rural farmhouses. While rarely particularly cheap, standards are fairly reliable.

In popular resorts and the major cities booking ahead is advisable, particularly during July or August, while for Venice, Rome and Florence it’s pretty much essential to book ahead from Easter until late September and over Christmas and New Year. The phrases in our Language section (see page 718) should help you get over the language barrier.

Hotels

Italy has some of the most memorable hotels in Europe, ranging from grand hotels oozing belle époque glamour to boutique hotels on the cutting edge of contemporary design. As is commonplace throughout Europe, Italian hotels are given an official rating of between one and five stars based on facilities and services, such as the number of rooms with en-suite bathroom or telephone, whether there is a restaurant on site, and whether there is 24-hour service. This means that the star rating is no guide to a hotel’s subtler, more subjective charms, such as the style of decor or the friendliness or helpfulness of staff.

In very busy places at peak times of the year it’s not unusual to have to stay for a minimum of three nights, and many proprietors will add the price of breakfast to your bill whether you want it or not. Make sure to check whether breakfast is included and, if it’s not, you can always grab a brioche and a cappuccino from a bar. Be warned, too, that in major resorts you will often be obliged to take half or full board in high season. Note that people travelling alone may sometimes have to pay for a double room even when they only need a single, though it can also work the other way round – if all their single rooms are taken, a hotelier may well put you in a double room but only charge the single rate.

Bed and breakfasts

The best bed and breakfasts offer a real flavour of Italian home life, though they’re not necessarily cheaper than an inexpensive hotel, and they rarely accept credit cards. Some places going under the name are actually little different from private rooms, with the owners not living on the premises, but you’ll invariably find them clean and well maintained. The most recent trend is for boutique B&Bs, often in stylishly revamped old palazzi. Check out http://bbitalia.it, http://bbplanet.it and http://bed-and-breakfast.it.

accommodation PRICES

An increasing number of hotels are beginning to base room prices on demand, rather than simply on season, particularly those that have booking facilities online. In addition rates vary greatly between the south and north of Italy, as well as between tourist hot spots and more rural areas. Although we have given a price reflective of the cheapest standard high-season double booked a couple of months in advance, be aware that there are increasingly huge fluctuations in price. As a rule, substantial discounts are to be had by booking online well in advance, or by looking for last-minute hotel bargains online on sites such as http://lastminute.com, http://booking.com or http://laterooms.com.

ACCOMODATION PRICE BOX

Price codes for accommodation in this guide as are follows, and generally refer to the cost of one night for a double room in high season, including breakfast:

€ under €100

€€ €100–200

€€€ €200–300

€€€€ €300–400

€€€€€ over €400

Be aware that hotel prices can fluctuate week by week, according to demand, and that low-season prices can be as much as fifty percent lower than peak prices. Last-minute bargains can often be found on such sites as http://lastminute.com and http://booking.com, but don’t assume that the sites always undercut the hotel’s own website.

Hostels

There is a good network of private and HI hostels throughout the country – from family-friendly institutions on the edge of large cities to sociable town-centre backpacker-focused options. You can easily base a tour of the country around them, although for two people travelling together they don’t always represent a massive saving on the cheapest double hotel room. If you’re travelling on your own, on the other hand, hostels are usually more sociable and can work out a lot cheaper; many have facilities such as inexpensive restaurants and self-catering kitchens that enable you to cut costs further.

HI hostels are members of the official International Youth Hostel Federation, and you’ll need to be a member of the organization in order to use them – you can join through your home country’s youth hostelling organization (see below) or often at the hostel on arrival. You need to reserve well ahead in the summer, most conveniently by using http://hostelworld.com.

Agriturismo

The agriturismo scheme, which allows the owners of country estates, vineyards and farms to rent out converted barns and farm buildings to tourists, has boomed in recent years. Usually these comprise a self-contained flat or building, though a few places just rent rooms on a bed-and-breakfast basis. While some rooms are still annexed to working farms or vineyards, many are smart, self-contained rural holiday properties; attractions may include home-grown food, swimming pools and a range of outdoor activities. Many agriturismi have a minimum-stay requirement of one week in busy periods.

Monasteries and convents

You will also come across