The Rough Guide to Argentina (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

World-renowned 'tell it like it is' guidebook

Discover Argentina with this comprehensive, entertaining, 'tell it like it is' Rough Guide, packed with comprehensive practical information and our experts' honest and independent recommendations.

Whether you plan to ride horses on an estancia, dance tango in Buenos Aires, hike across Glaciar Perito Moreno or visit the elephant seals at Península Valdés, The Rough Guide to Argentina will help you discover the best places to explore, sleep, eat, drink and shop along the way.

Features of The Rough Guide to Argentina:
- Detailed regional coverage: provides in-depth practical information for each step of all kinds of trip, from intrepid off-the-beaten-track adventures, to chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas. Regions covered include: Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires Province, Córdoba and the Central Sierras, The Litoral and the Gran Chaco, The Northwest, Mendoza and El Cuyo, The Lake District, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego.
- Honest independent reviews: written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, and recommendations you can truly trust, our writers will help you get the most from your trip to Argentina.
- Meticulous mapping: always full-colour, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys. Find your way around Buenos Aires, Patagonia and many more locations without needing to get online.
- Fabulous full-colour photography: features a richness of inspirational colour photography, including the captivating scenery of Patagonia, the Central Sierras, the Lake District and the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
- Things not to miss: Rough Guides' rundown of Buenos Aires, Mendoza, the Lake District and Patagonia's best sights and top experiences.
- Itineraries: carefully planned routes will help you organise your trip, and inspire and inform your on-the-road experiences.?
- Basics section: packed with essential pre-departure information including getting there, getting around, accommodation, food and drink, health, the media, festivals, sports and outdoor activities, culture and etiquette, shopping and more.?
Background information: comprehensive Contexts chapter provides fascinating insights into Argentina, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary
- Covers: Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires Province, Córdoba and the Central Sierras, The Litoral and the Gran Chaco, The Northwest, Mendoza and El Cuyo, The Lake District, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego

About Rough Guides: Rough Guides have been inspiring travellers for over 35 years, with over 30 million copies sold globally. Synonymous with practical travel tips, quality writing and a trustworthy 'tell it like it is' ethos, the Rough Guides list includes more than 260 travel guides to 120+ destinations, gift-books and phrasebooks.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Sep 1, 2019
• ISBN: 9781789196306

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

INTRODUCTION

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

Things not to miss

Tailor-made trips

BASICS

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports

Outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Travel essentials

THE GUIDE

1Buenos Aires

2Buenos Aires Province

3Córdoba and the Central Sierras

4The Litoral and the Gran Chaco

5The Northwest

6Mendoza and El Cuyo

7The Lake District

8Patagonia

9Tierra del Fuego

CONTEXTS

History

Environment and wildlife

Music

Books

Language

Argentine idiom and slang

A glossary of Argentine terms and acronyms

SMALL PRINT

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Introduction to

Argentina

Studded with outstanding natural wonders and endowed with one of the world’s most stylish capital cities, Argentina is a vast and varied land. Tapering from the Tropic of Capricorn towards the tip of Antarctica, it encompasses a staggering diversity of terrains, from the lush wetlands of the Litoral to the bone-dry Andean plateau of the northwest to the end-of-the-world archipelago of Tierra del Fuego. Its most emblematic landscapes are the verdant flatlands of the Pampas and the dramatic steppe of Patagonia, whose very name evokes windswept plains inhabited by hardy pioneers.

At first glance, Argentina may seem less exotic than the rest of South America, and its inhabitants will readily, and rightly, tell you how powerful an influence Europe has been on their nation. It has been quipped that Argentina is the most American of all European countries and the most European of all American countries, but it actually has a very special character all of its own, distilled into the national ideal of Argentinidad, characterized by proud, defiant passion. While there is a lot of truth in the clichés – Argentine society really is dominated by football, politics and living life in the fast lane (literally, when it comes to driving) – not everyone dances the tango or is obsessed with Evita or gallops around on a horse. Wherever you go, though, you’re bound to be wowed by Argentines’ zeal for so many aspects of their own culture and curiosity about the outside world.

One of Argentina’s top attractions is the sprawling metropolis of Buenos Aires, the most fascinating of all South American capitals. It’s a riveting place just to wander about, people-watching, shopping or simply soaking up the distinct atmosphere. Its many barrios (neighbourhoods) are remarkably varied – some are atmospherically historic, others strikingly modern – but all of them ooze character. The other main cities worth visiting are colonial Salta in the northwest, beguiling Rosario – birthplace of Che Guevara and Lionel Messi – and Ushuaia, which, in addition to being the world’s most southerly city, enjoys a fabulous waterfront setting on the Beagle Channel.

FACT FILE

Argentina is the world’s eighth-largest country by area, though with a population of around 45 million – a third of whom live in Greater Buenos Aires – it is one of the least densely populated countries on the planet.

Some 97 percent of Argentines are of European origin, largely of Spanish or Italian descent. Most are nominally Catholic, but under a fifth are practising. Although access to abortion is still heavily restricted, Argentina has some of Latin America’s most progressive laws on matters like same-sex marriage and dying with dignity.

Best known for its beef, Argentina is also a leading producer of wine, wheat, fruits and vegetables. In recent years much of the country’s land has been turned over to soya production, while shale oil and gas fields in Patagonia offer huge economic opportunities – but deeply troubling environmental consequences.

Argentines have twice been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize: Carlos de Saavedra Lamas, in 1936, for his peace efforts in South America, and Adolfo Pérez Esquivel, in 1980, for his defence of human rights in the 1970s.

The remains of the largest-known dinosaur – the Patagotitan mayorum, which weighed a whopping 69 tonnes – were discovered by chance by a farm worker in Patagonia in 2008.

Argentina has a vibrant film industry and has twice carried off an Oscar for best foreign language film: La historia oficial (The Official Story) in 1985 and El secreto de sus ojos (The Secret in Their Eyes) in 2010; both movies deal with the Dirty War and its aftermath.

But the country’s real trump cards outside the capital are the sheer size of the land and the diverse wildlife inhabiting it. In theory, by hopping on a plane or two you could spot howler monkeys and toucans in northern jungles in the morning, then watch the antics of penguins tobogganing into the icy South Atlantic in the afternoon. Argentina hosts hundreds of bird species – including the Andean condor and three varieties of flamingo – plus pumas, armadillos, llamas, foxes and tapirs roaming the country’s forests and mountainsides and the dizzying heights of the altiplano, or puna. Lush tea plantations and parched salt flats, palm groves and vast ice fields, plus the world’s mightiest set of waterfalls, are just a few of the scenes that will catch you unawares if you were expecting Argentina to be one big cattle ranch. Dozens of these biosystems are protected by an extensive network of parks and reserves.

For getting around and seeing these marvels, you can generally rely on a well-developed infrastructure inherited from decades of domestic tourism. Thanks in part to an increasing number of boutique hotels, the range and quality of accommodation has improved no end in the last 15 years or so. Among the best lodgings are the beautiful ranches known as estancias – or fincas in the north – that generally function as luxury resorts. In most places, you’ll be able to rely on the services of top-notch tour operators, who will not only show you the sights but also fix you up with a staggering range of outdoor adventures: horseriding, trekking, white-water rafting, kayaking, skiing, climbing and hang-gliding, along with more relaxing pursuits such as wine tasting or birdwatching. Argentina offers such variety that it’s impossible to take it all in on one trip – you‘ll find yourself longing to return to explore the bits you didn’t get to see the first time around.

Where to go

Argentina has many attractions that could claim the title of natural wonders of the world: the prodigious waterfalls of Iguazú; the spectacular Glaciar Perito Moreno; unforgettable whale-watching off Península Valdés; the handsome lakes and mountains around Bariloche – indeed, Patagonia in general. Yet many of the country’s most rewarding destinations are also its least known, such as the Esteros del Iberá, a huge reserve of lily-carpeted lagoons offering close-up encounters with cormorants and caymans; or Antofagasta de la Sierra, a remote village set amid frozen lakes mottled pink with flamingos; or Laguna Diamante, a high-altitude mirror of sapphire water reflecting a wondrous volcano. In any case, climate and distance will rule out any attempt to see every corner; it’s more sensible and rewarding to concentrate on one or two sections of the country.

Unless you’re visiting Argentina as part of a wider South American tour, Buenos Aires is likely to be your point of entry, as it has the country’s main international airport, Ezeiza. It is exciting, vibrant city, with an intriguing blend of European architecture and a vernacular flair that includes houses painted in the colours of legendary football team Boca Juniors. Meanwhile, Buenos Aires’ museums and galleries are eclectic enough to suit all interests – classic and modern Latin American art, colonial silverware, dinosaurs and ethnography are just a few of the subjects on offer – and you can round off a day’s sightseeing with a tango show, a dinner at one of the dozens of fabulous restaurants, or a hedonistic night out.

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VALLEY OF THE MOON

CRIOLLO CULTURE

Most closely translated as creole, criollo refers to a way of life born in the Americas, but with Old World roots. In Argentina, it is a byword for that which is absolutely Argentine – the culture of the countryside and the gaucho. Key aspects of this include the food – asado barbecues, of course, but also maize-based stews like locro; clothing – such as baggy riding trousers called bombachas and the espadrille-like alpargatas; horses – be they for rounding up cattle or playing polo; and a decidedly anti-authoritarian streak in the national character. Even the wealthiest city-dweller is usually keen to prove that he or she is fundamentally a criollo, never happier than when sipping a mate by the fire.

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Due north lies the Litoral, an expanse of subtropical watery landscapes that shares borders with Uruguay, Brazil and Paraguay. Here are the photogenic Iguazú waterfalls and several Jesuit missions, whose once-noble ruins are crumbling into the jungle – with the exception of well-groomed San Ignacio Miní. Immediately west of the Litoral extends the Chaco, one of Argentina’s most infrequently visited regions, reserved for those with an ardent interest in wildlife, so be prepared for fierce summer heat and limited infrastructure. A highlight in the country’s landlocked northwest is the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a fabulous gorge lined with rainbow-hued rocks; it winds up to the oxygen-starved altiplano, where llamas and their wild relatives munch wiry grass. Nearby, in the Valles Calchaquíes, a chain of stunningly scenic valleys, high-altitude vineyards produce the delightfully flowery torrontés wine.

Sprawling across Argentina’s broad midriff to the west and immediately south of Buenos Aires are the Pampas, arguably the country’s most archetypal landscape. Formed by horizon-to-horizon plains interspersed with the odd low sierra, this subtly beautiful scenery is punctuated by small towns, the occasional ranch and countless clumps of pampas grass (cortaderas). Part arid, part wetland, the Pampas are grazed by millions of cattle and planted with soya and wheat fields of incomprehensible size. They are also where you’ll glimpse traditional gaucho culture, most famously in the charming pueblo of San Antonio de Areco. Here, too, are some of the classiest estancias, offering a combination of hedonistic luxury and horseback adventures. On the Atlantic Coast a string of fun beach resorts includes long-standing favourite Mar del Plata.

As you head further west, the Central Sierras loom: the mild climate, clear brooks and sylvan idylls of these ancient highlands have attracted holiday-makers since the late nineteenth century, and within reach of Córdoba, the country’s colonial-era second city, are some of the oldest resorts on the continent. Keep going west and you’ll get to the Cuyo, with the highest Andean peaks as a snowcapped backdrop; here you can discover one of Argentina’s most enjoyable cities, the regional capital of Mendoza, also the country’s wine capital. From here, the scenic Alta Montaña route climbs steeply to the Chilean border, passing Cerro Aconcagua, now well established as a fantasy challenge for mountaineers worldwide. Just south, Las Leñas is a ski-and-snowboard resort where celebrities show off their winter wear, while the nearby black-and-red lava wastes of La Payunia, one of the country’s hidden jewels, are all but overlooked. Likewise, San Juan and La Rioja provinces are relatively uncharted territories, but their marvellous hill-and-dale landscapes reward exploration, along with their underrated wineries. The star attractions are a brace of parks: Parque Nacional Talampaya, with its giant red cliffs, and the nearby Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, usually known as the Valle de la Luna on account of its intriguing moonscapes.

Argentina cherishes the lion’s share of the wild, sparsely populated expanses of Patagonia (the rest belongs to Chile) and possesses by the most populous half of the remote archipelago of Tierra del Fuego. These are lands of seemingly endless arid steppe hemmed in for the most part by the southern leg of the Andes, a row of majestic volcanoes and craggy peaks interspersed by deep glacial lakes. An almost unbroken series of national parks running along these Patagonian and Fuegian cordilleras makes for some of the best trekking anywhere on the planet. You should certainly include the savage granite peaks of the Fitz Roy massif in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in your itinerary but consider also the less frequently visited araucaria (monkey puzzle) forests of Parque Nacional Lanín or the peerless trail network of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. On the Atlantic side of Patagonia, Península Valdés is a must-see for its world-class marine fauna, including southern right whales, elephant seals and orcas. If you have a historical bent, you may like to trace the region’s associations with Darwin and his captain Fitz Roy in the choppy Beagle Channel off Ushuaia, or track down the legacy of Butch Cassidy, who lived near Cholila, or of the Welsh settlers whose influence can still be felt in communities like Gaiman, Trelew and – further inland – Trevelin.

TANGO, ARGENTINA’S BLUES

Tango is not only a dance, or even an art form, it is a powerful symbol, closely associated with Argentina around the world. Essentially and intrinsically linked to Buenos Aires and its multicultural history, it nonetheless has ardent fans all around the country. Rosario and, to a lesser extent, Córdoba, the country’s two biggest cities after the capital, have a strong tango culture, complete with milongas (tango dance venues or events) and shops to buy the right garb and footwear. And don’t be surprised to find villagers in some remote hamlet, hundreds of kilometres from Buenos Aires, listening to a scratchy recording of Carlos Gardel – the 1930s heart-throb still regarded as the finest tango singer. Some experts argue that tango’s success can be put down to its perfect representation of the Argentine psyche: a unique blend of nostalgia, resignation and heartbroken passion.

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When to go

Given the size of Argentina, you’re unlikely to flit from region to region, and, if you can, you should try and visit each area at the optimal time of year. Roughly falling from September to November, the Argentine spring is perfect just about everywhere, although in the far south icy gales may blow. Summer (Dec–Feb) is the only time to climb the highest Andean peaks, such as Aconcagua, and also the most reliable time of year to head for Tierra del Fuego, though it can snow there any time of year. Buenos Aires is liable to be very hot and sticky in December and January, and you should certainly avoid the lowland parts of the north at this time of year, as temperatures can be scorching and roads flooded by heavy storms. Autumn (March and April) is a great time to visit Mendoza and San Juan provinces for the wine harvests, and Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego to witness the eye-catching red and orange hues of the beech groves. The winter months of June, July and August are obviously the time to head for the Andean ski resorts, but blizzards can cut off towns in Patagonia, and many places close from Easter through to October, so it’s not a good time to tour the southerly region. Temperatures in the north of the country should be pleasant at this time of year, though Buenos Aires can come across as somewhat bleak in July and August, despite a plethora of indoor attractions.

A final point to bear in mind: the national holiday seasons are roughly January, Easter and July, when transport and accommodation can get booked up and rates are hiked, sometimes almost doubling.

Author picks

Rough Guides authors covered every corner of Argentina for this new edition, from the gale-swept shores of the Beagle Channel to the spray-drenched viewing platforms at the Iguazú Falls. These are their personal picks.

Road trips Argentina’s roads pass through an astonishing variety of landscapes. Most famously, Ruta 40 skirts the Andes to zip through Patagonia and beyond. We also like the two-day Cafayate–Cachi circuit and the polychrome Quebrada de Humahuaca.

Meet the ancestors Visit the Welsh tearooms of Gaiman and Trevelin, wander through colourful Genoese Boca, sup locally brewed beer in Germanic Villa General Belgrano and Bariloche, and get a taste of indigenous Calchaquí and Kolla cultures in the northwest.

Breathtaking views Picking Argentina’s finest view is an impossible task, but our favourites include Glaciar Perito Moreno and Monte Fitz Roy in Patagonia, Cerro Catedral in the Lake District, and, of course, the Iguazú Falls in the Northeast.

Wildlife encounters Argentina is a wildlife haven, with southern right whales off Península Valdés, Magellanic penguins at Punta Tombo and vicuñas in the northwest.

Favourite wines Visit the Mendoza region – home to numerous world-class vineyards specializing in Argentina’s signature grape, malbec – or tour the torrontés and tannat producers of Cafayate.

Romantic estancias La Bamba may have been the setting for a film about a tragic love story but that shouldn’t put off honeymooners. Los Potreros near Córdoba offers superlative horseriding, while Harberton offers an insight into Tierra del Fuego’s turbulent history.

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MAGELLAN PENGUINS AT PUNTA TOMBO

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CYCLING ON RUTA 40

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things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything Argentina has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights: vibrant cities, dramatic landscapes, spectacular wildlife and more. Each one has a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide.

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1 RUTA DE LOS SIETE LAGOS

Seven Patagonian lakes – their sparkling waters emerald, ultramarine, cobalt, turquoise, cerulean, sapphire and indigo – linked by a rugged mountain road: a magical route best explored in a 4WD.

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2 CARNIVAL IN THE LITORAL

Like their neighbours in Uruguay and Brazil, the people of the northeast do know how to party, not least in Gualeguaychú in the lead-up to Lent.

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3 TALAMPAYA

The undisputed highlight of La Rioja Province is a World Heritage Site dominated by giant cliffs of deep pink sandstone – once home to dinosaurs, now the protected habitat of condors, guanacos and foxes.

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4 GLACIAR PERITO MORENO

A visit to one of the world’s few advancing glaciers is a treat for the eyes and the ears; count the impossibly varied shades of blue as you listen to a chorus of cracks, thuds and whines.

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5 BIRDLIFE AT THE ESTEROS DEL IBERÁ

The shimmering lagoons of these vital wetlands attract myriad birds, from tiny hummingbirds to majestic herons.

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6 CUEVA DE LAS MANOS PINTADAS

A prehistoric mural, an early finger-printing exercise or ancient graffiti? Whatever it is, this delicate tableau of many hands is one of the continent’s most enchanting archeological sites.

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7 WINTER SPORTS

Head to Las Leñas for the jet-set après-ski, Cerro Catedral for traditional pistes and Tierra del Fuego for the world’s most southerly resorts – winter sports in Argentina combine great snow with a lot of showing off.

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8 LA RECOLETA CEMETERY

The prestigious resting place of Argentina’s great and good – even Evita sneaked in – this cemetery is one of the world’s most exclusive patches of real estate.

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9 SAN TELMO, BUENOS AIRES

Take a stroll down the cobbled streets of this bohemian barrio full of tango bars and antique shops, talented street performers and decaying grandeur.

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10 CLIMBING ACONCAGUA

Despite frigid temperatures and extreme altitude – 6959m – the highest peak outside the Himalayas can be climbed with the right preparation and a knowledgeable guide, making for a world-class mountaineering experience.

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11 THE PAMPAS

Rugged gauchos, nodding pampas grass and herds of cattle are the famous inhabitants of Argentina’s most archetypal landscape.

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12 VOLCÁN LANÍN

Despite the unappealing meaning of its native name – he who choked himself to death – this perfect symmetrical cone of a volcano is both a beauty to behold and a treat to climb.

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13 TIGRE AND THE PARANÁ DELTA

Take a boat or paddle a kayak around the swampy islets and muddy creeks of Tigre – a subtropical town on the capital’s doorstep that acts as a gateway to the continent’s second-largest river system.

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14 DINOSAUR FOSSILS IN NEUQUÉN

The world’s biggest dinosaurs once roamed Neuquén Province – and nothing will convey their immensity more than standing underneath their skeletons or seeing their giant footprints in the rock.

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15 SALTA

Perhaps the most beautiful city in Argentina, Salta La Linda (Salta the Fair) boasts well-preserved colonial architecture, a backdrop of soaring peaks and some wonderful places to sleep and eat.

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16 QUEBRADA DE HUMAHUACA

Whitewashed settlements nestled against polychrome mountains, dazzling salt flats, lush valleys and cactus forests, windswept steppe and deep gorges – some of the planet’s most incredible scenery.

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17 USHUAIA

Once Argentina’s most feared penal colony, now the world’s southernmost city, Ushuaia sits proudly on the Beagle Channel, backed by serrated peaks and within striking distance of Tierra del Fuego National Park.

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18 FOOTBALL

It is no exaggeration to say that nothing else holds quite the same grip on Argentine society as football – and attending a match is an exhilarating experience.

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19 WINES OF MENDOZA

What better to accompany a juicy grilled bife de chorizo than one of the province’s award-winning malbecs or syrahs?

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20 ASADOS

The local answer to the barbecue, and inseparable from Argentinidad (the national identity), these meat-roasting rituals are prepared with the utmost pride and devoured in carnivorous bliss.

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21 ESTANCIAS

Try your hand at cattle-herding or sheep-shearing at a working estancia – one of the great Argentine institutions – and get an authentic taste of the gaucho way of life.

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22 TREKKING IN THE ANDES

South America’s great mountain range offers world-class trekking, not least in the Fitz Roy sector of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, with El Chaltén an appealing base.

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23 IGUAZÚ FALLS

Known simply as the Cataratas, the world’s most awe-inspiring set of waterfalls is set among dense jungle, home to brightly coloured birds and butterflies.

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24 WHALE-WATCHING OFF PENÍNSULA VALDÉS

Península Valdés is a natural wonder and home to a staggering array of wildlife – but for many the southern right whales who congregate offshore steal the show.

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25 TANGO

For a quintessentially Argentine night out, watch a tango show in Buenos Aires or even better learn a few steps yourself at one of the many classes on offer in the capital.

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Tailor-made trips

The following itineraries will take you to every corner of the country, via both well-known sights and less visited ones, from the crashing Patagonia glaciers to off-the-beaten-track villages. You’re unlikely to complete the list, but it will give you a flavour of what Argentina has to offer and what we can plan and book for you at www.roughguides.com/trips.

WONDERS OF NATURE

Much of Argentina’s wow nature highlights are in Patagonia, but there are unmissable sights further north, too, if you can spare a month or so.

Península Valdés Watch whales, seals and sea lions basking in the rich, cool waters off this peninsula in northern Patagonia.

Punta Tombo The biggest colony of Magellanic penguins in South America is a delightful sight, and the trip there will likely take you past guanacos, armadillos and more.

Ushuaia Situated on the Beagle Channel, teeming with birds, sea lions and king crabs, Ushuaia provides a base for exploring nearby Tierra del Fuego national park.

Glaciar Perito Moreno Justifiably one of Argentina’s most visited sights. Watch enormous chunks of blue ice calve off the city-sized glacier or don crampons to walk on top of it.

Fitz Roy The northern section of Los Glaciares national park provides some of the country’s best trekking, among jagged peaks and turquoise lakes.

Quebrada de Humahuaca Up in the dry northwest, the multicoloured hues of the pinnacles and strata of Humahuaca make it the pick of the region’s sights.

Iguazú The enormous Iguazú waterfalls on the Argentina-Brazil border, set in subtropical rainforest, make a steamy, stunning contrast to the icy southern sights.

Esteros del Iberá An enchanting, little-visited ecosystem in Corrientes Province whose marshes are filled with an array of wildlife.

The Paraná Delta A surprisingly verdant riverine community, just outside Buenos Aires, makes for a gentle but impressive end to a tour of Argentina’s natural highlights.

RUTA 40

Like Route 66 in the US, Argentina’s Ruta 40 – the country’s longest highway, running from Patagonia to Bolivia – has earned legendary status, inspiring songs, books and of course road trips. Count on six weeks if you want to take in all 5224km of la Cuarenta.

You can book these trips with Rough Guides, or we can help you create your own. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Cabo Vírgenes La Cuarenta’s beginning, by the Strait of Magellan, marked by a lighthouse, heralds the start of a zigzagging route through windswept Patagonian steppe.

Cueva de los Manos Pintadas Just off the Ruta 40, in the Patagonia wilderness, this World Heritage Site is one of South America’s finest examples of ancient rock art.

Bariloche This picturesque city is the gateway to the Nahuel Huapi park and Argentina’s Lake District, home to pristine alpine-like scenery, dramatic mountain lakes and ancient trees.

La Payunia A remote land of rosy lava, ebony gorges, deep karstic caves and flamingo-flecked lagoons in Mendoza Province.

Laguna Diamante Often inaccessible, this lagoon rewards the adventurous. Enjoy a picnic on the banks of a crystalline brook as you admire the silhouette of Volcán Maipo.

Cuesta de Miranda The road in La Rioja Province winds through polychrome mountains that contrast with the verdant vegetation along the riverbanks below.

Belén Stop off at this Catamarca highland village for a top-notch poncho – methods of weaving have been maintained since pre-Hispanic times.

Salinas Grandes Ringed by mountains, this area of snow-white salt flats is a good place to spot llamas and vicuñas.

WINE AND DINE

Wherever you travel in Argentina, you can find excellent-quality food and drink. Beef plays a part, of course, but there’s more to the country’s culinary offering. Allow two to three weeks.

Buenos Aires The country’s capital has, unsurprisingly, the most cosmopolitan selection of restaurants – including its famous puertas cerradas – with inventive cooking at reasonable prices easy to track down.

The Pampas Stay on an estancia to enjoy the best barbecued beef you’ll taste anywhere, right in the fertile heartland where it comes from.

Mendoza Spend your days – and nights if you wish – at a bodega, tasting fine malbec wines with the snow-streaked Andes as a backdrop.

Salta A good place to try the distinctive northwestern cuisine, including the classic empanada, a pasty filled with meat or vegetables, or locro stew.

Rosario Vibrant and stylish Rosario overlooks the Río Paraná and is an excellent place to dine on the local river fish, such as dorado, boga and surubí.

Ushuaia The capital of Argentine Tierra del Fuego is the best place to sample centolla (king crab), plucked fresh from the Beagle Channel.

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DRIVING TOWARDS FITZ ROY, EL CHALTÉN, PATAGONIA

Basics

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports

Outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Travel essentials

Getting there

Though some visitors reach Argentina overland from a neighbouring country and a tiny handful arrive by boat, the overwhelming majority of travellers first set foot on Argentine soil at Buenos Aires’ international airport, Ezeiza.

In general, airfares to Argentina tend to be quite high, but they do vary widely depending on the routing and the season. The highest fares are between December and February, around Easter and in July and August, Argentines’ winter holiday season. You’ll get the best prices during the low season: March to June and September to November. Note also that flying at weekends often hikes return fares; price ranges quoted in this section assume midweek travel.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Several airlines offer regular scheduled flights from the UK iberia.com) via Madrid skimps on the creature comforts but is often cheap. Adult fares from London to Buenos Aires usually start at around £650 in the low season, rising to well over £1000 in the high season.

There are no direct flights from Ireland to Argentina. If you’re trying to keep costs down, consider flying to London with an economy airline and making a connection there. For less hassle, though, and only a fraction more money, you’re better off flying direct to New York or Miami and catching an onward flight from there.

In addition to fares, it’s worth paying attention to the routes used by different airlines. The shortest and most convenient routes from London, often via São Paulo or Madrid, entail a total travelling time of around sixteen hours. Apart from minimizing the length of the flight, another reason to check the routes is that many airlines allow you to take stopovers on the way – sometimes for free, sometimes for a surcharge of around ten percent. Potential stopovers include Bogotá, Rio and São Paulo in South America; Boston, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Miami, Newark, Los Angeles and Washington DC in the US; and Frankfurt, Madrid, Milan, Paris and Rome in Europe.

Flights from the US and Canada

aerolineas.com.ar), offer daily non-stop flights from the US to Buenos Aires. Typical fares start at around US$1200 from New York, Chicago or Washington in low season, rising to US$1700 in the high season. Flying times to Buenos Aires are around eleven hours from New York and Chicago, and nine from Miami.

There’s less choice if you’re flying from Canadaaircanada.com) offering the only flight into the country – from Toronto via Santiago de Chile (with connections from other major Canadian cities). You’ll be able to put together a considerably more flexible itinerary if you look for connecting flights with a US carrier. Direct flights from Toronto take around thirteen hours and prices start at Can$1200 in low season; from Vancouver the journey time is at least eighteen hours, at a similar fare.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

qantas.com), has a stopover in Santiago and Auckland. In Australia, flights to Argentina leave from Sydney, plus a couple a week that depart from Melbourne. There are no direct flights from New Zealand, so you will need to go either via Sydney or with LATAM via Santiago. Flights from South Africa flysaa.com) leaves from Johannesburg, for example.

ROUND-THE-WORLD TICKETS

If Argentina is only one stop on a longer journey, you might want to consider buying a round-the-world (RTW) ticket. Some travel agents can sell you an off-the-shelf RTW ticket that will have you touching down in about half a dozen cities (Buenos Aires is on many itineraries). Alternatively, you can have a travel agent assemble an RTW ticket for you; in this case the ticket can be tailored to your needs but is usually more expensive.

A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

Airfares depend on both the season and duration of stay. Fares from Australia normally start around Aus$2000 in low season. The lowest return fares from Cape Town or Johannesburg cost around ZAR8500.

DISCOUNT AGENTS

Adventure World adventureworld.com.au. Agents for a vast array of international adventure travel companies that operate trips to South America.

Bridge the World bridgetheworld.com. Specializing in RTW tickets, with good deals aimed at backpackers.

North South Travel northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

STA Travel statravel.com. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s.

Trailfinders trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

Travel Cuts travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

USIT usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialist tour operator.

ADVENTURE TOUR SPECIALISTS

Adventures Abroad adventures-abroad.com. Adventure specialist offering mainly cultural tours to Argentina, combined with Chile or Brazil.

Contours contourstravel.com.au. Specialists in tailored city stopover packages and tours, including self-drive tours through the Lake District and Mendoza wine tours.

Dragoman dragoman.com. Extended overland journeys; shorter camping and hotel-based safaris, too.

Exodus Travels exodustravels.com. Adventure-tour operator taking small groups for specialist programmes, including walking, biking, overland, adventure and cultural trips. Among its tours is a two-week Fitz Roy and Torres del Paine (Chile) trip.

TOURS

explore.co.uk. Small-group tours, treks, expeditions and safaris. Offers two-week tours of Patagonia.

Journey Latin America journeylatinamerica.co.uk. Specialist in flights, packages and tailor-made trips to Latin America, including a sixteen-day self-drive trip to Salta.

MacDermott’s Argentina macdermottsargentina.com. Bespoke horseback adventures around the country, specializing in Andes crossings and treks in Salta and Mendoza; also offers honeymoon adventures.

Tucan Travel tucantravel.com. Group holidays in Argentina, plus a range of overland expeditions in the rest of South America.

Wilderness Travel wildernesstravel.com. Specialist in hiking, cultural and wildlife adventures in Patagonia.

Wildlife Worldwide wildlifeworldwide.com. Tailor-made trips for wildlife and wilderness enthusiasts. Twelve-day trip in the northeast, including Iguazú and Esteros del Iberá.

World Expeditions worldexpeditions.com.au. Australian-owned adventure company whose trips include an Aconcagua ascent for hardcore adventurers and special tours for travellers over 55.

< Back to Basics

Getting around

Distances are immense in Argentina, and you are likely to spend a considerable portion of your budget on travel. Ground transport (mostly bus) is best for giving a true impression of the scale of the country and for appreciating the landscape. However, you may want to cover some big distances, particularly to and around Patagonia, in which case travelling by domestic flights can often save a day or more. The inter-city bus network is extensive but services in remote areas can be poor and infrequent; in these places, it is worth considering car rental. Train services are run-down and limited and not generally a viable method of getting around.

By bus

By far the most common and straightforward method of transport in Argentina is the bus (colectivo or bus for local journeys,micro for long-distance journeys). There are hundreds of private companies, most of which concentrate on one particular region, although some, such as Vía TAC and El Rápido, run nationwide.

Many buses are modern, plush Brazilian-built models designed for long-distance travel. Break-downs do happen, but in general your biggest worry will be what movie the driver has chosen to entertain you with (usually subtitled Hollywood action flicks, played with the sound either turned off or at thunderous volume). On longer journeys, snacks and hot meals are served (included in the ticket price), although these vary considerably in quality and tend towards sweet-toothed tastes. Cama, ejecutivo and suite are the luxury services, with wide, fully reclinable seats; semi-cama services offer a little less comfort, with narrower seats that only extend part of the way back. These former services usually cost between twenty and forty percent more than the semi-cama (regular) services, and are well worth the extra, particularly over long distances. On minor routes, you’ll have less choice of buses, though most are decent with plenty of legroom. Many services turn the air conditioning up beyond most people’s levels of endurance; take a jumper on board.

Buying tickets (boletos or pasajes) is normally a simple on-the-spot matter, but you must plan in advance if travelling in the high season (mid-Dec to Feb) or around long weekends, especially if you’re taking a long-distance bus from Buenos Aires or any other major city to a particularly popular holiday destination. In these cases you should buy your ticket a week beforehand; note that prices rise during peak times. Some destinations have both direct (directo or rápido) and slower services that stop at all intermediary points, and though most services call into the bus terminal (terminal de ómnibus), this is not always the case: some drop you on the road outside the centre. Similarly, when heading to Buenos Aires, check that the bus’ final destination is Retiro, the central bus terminal, otherwise you might end up in a suburban terminal such as Liniers.

There’s usually some kind of left-luggage office (guardaequipaje) at terminals, or, if you have a few hours to kill between connections, the company with whom you have your onward ticket will usually store your pack free of charge, enabling you to look around town unencumbered.

By air

Argentina’s most important domestic airport is Buenos Aires’ Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, which has flights to all the country’s provincial capitals and major tourist centres. Low cost flights depart from El Palomar, a former military airport 18km west of the city. People who want to get an overview of Argentina’s tremendous variety in a limited time may rely heavily on domestic flights to combat the vast distances involved – what takes twenty or more hours by bus might take only one or two by plane. As a rule, you’ll find prices are the same whether you buy your ticket direct from the airline office or from the plentiful travel agencies in most towns and cities. Availability can be a problem on tourist routes such as those around Patagonia or during the holidays, and if these feature in your itinerary you are advised to book as far in advance as possible. Some deals booked in advance are good value, although non-residents usually pay a considerably higher tariff than Argentines. Domestic departure taxes are always included in the price of the ticket.

Aerolíneas Argentinas aerolineas.com.ar) is the national flag carrier, with the biggest destination network. The company has faced many problems over the past decade or so and its once excellent reputation has been tarnished, but in many places it will be your only option. Its main rival in Argentina these days is Chilean-Brazilian flag carrier LATAM amaszonas.com) flies to Montevideo in Uruguay and on to Paraguay and Bolivia.

The military also provides civilian services – the Air Force’s LADE lade.com.ar) is one of the cheapest methods of travel in the country and flies to isolated, often unexpected places, mostly destinations in Patagonia. However, routings can be convoluted, and you might find a flight stops four or five times between its original departure point and final destination. Timetables change frequently (up to once a month) and services can be cancelled at the last moment if the Air Force needs the plane. That said, it’s worth asking at LADE offices as you travel round just in case they’ve something useful.

norwegian.com) which flies to Mendoza, Córdoba and Bariloche from Buenos Aires.

DRIVING ON DIRT ROADS

Driving on gravel is much like driving on snow – fine in a straight line but difficult on bends or when braking. To keep safe, stick to the Highway Code and follow this advice:

On unpaved sections, follow the most recently used tracks and never exceed 70km/hr (you’ll often creep along at 40km/hr).

Slow down and move as far right as possible when approaching an oncoming vehicle to avoid windscreen or headlight damage.

Overtake with caution – dust and stones thrown up will obscure visibility.

Go downhill in a low gear – the rear will skid if you go too fast.

Slow down in strong winds, especially crosswinds – in a high-clearance 4WD the wind may get underneath – and be careful opening doors, as they can be wrenched from their hinges.

Give help if you see someone has broken down: offering to give them a lift or taking a message to the next town could be vital.

Refuel whenever you see a pump – the next may be hundreds of kilometres away.

Take plenty of provisions with you (especially drinking water), plus warm clothing in case you are stranded overnight.

Always allow more time than you need to get from A to B, as the distances are huge.

One factor to bear in mind is the possible disruption caused by volcanic eruptions in the Andes. Huge clouds of ash billowed out of a Chilean volcano throughout much of 2011, showering grit and dust onto the Lake District and causing havoc farther afield. Bariloche airport was closed for several months while other airports around the country, including Ezeiza and Aeroparque in the capital, were repeatedly shut down as a precaution, sometimes for a few days at a time. Airports were also affected in 2013 and 2015 by Copahue and Villarrica volcanoes respectively.

By car

You are unlikely to want or need a car for your whole stay in Argentina, but you’ll find one pretty indispensable if you want to explore some of the more isolated areas of Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, the Northwest, Mendoza or San Juan. If possible, it makes sense to get a group together, not just to keep costs down but also to share the driving, which can be arduous and potentially dangerous, especially on unsurfaced roads. Approximately thirty percent of roads are paved in Argentina, but some of the less important of these routes are littered with potholes. Unsurfaced roads can be extremely muddy after rain, and may be impassable, even to 4WDs, after prolonged wet spells. A 4WD is not usually necessary, but can be useful on minor roads in mountainous areas, when you’re likely to encounter snow, or on Ruta 40 in Patagonia. Outside major cities, most accidents (often the most serious ones) occur on unsurfaced gravel roads (ripio).

Altitude can also be a problem in the high Andes – you may need to adjust the fuel intake. One thing worth noting: flashing your lights when driving is a warning to other vehicles not to do something, as opposed to the British system, where it is used to signal concession of right of way. You can be fined for not wearing seatbelts (both in the front and back), although many Argentines display a cavalier disregard of this law.

Car rental

To rent a car, you need to be over 21 (25 with some agencies) and hold a driver’s licence – an international one is not usually necessary. Bring a credit card and your passport for the deposit. Before you drive off, check that you’ve been given insurance, tax and ownership papers, check carefully for dents and paintwork damage and get hold of a 24hr emergency telephone number. Also, pay close attention to the small print, most notably what you’re liable for in the event of an accident: the list of people with grievances after renting a car and spending considerably more than they intended is a long one. Your insurance will not normally cover you for flipping the car, or smashed windscreens or headlights.

Car-rental costs are high in Argentina, though rates between different agencies can vary considerably. Small, local firms often give very good deals – up to half the price of the global rental names – and it doesn’t necessarily hold that the local branch of an international agency will be up to the standards you expect. The main cities offer the most economical prices, while costs are highest in Patagonia; unlimited mileage deals are usually your best option, as per-kilometre charges can otherwise exceed your daily rental cost many times over. Unfortunately, there are relatively few places in Argentina where you can rent a vehicle and drop it in another specified town without being clobbered with a high relocation fee. Book as early as possible if you’re travelling in high season to popular holiday destinations, as demand usually outstrips supply. It’s fairly straightforward to take a vehicle into Chile but it is essential to have the correct paperwork from the rental firm. Many provide this free of charge, particularly those in towns near the border.

If you plan to do a lot of driving, consider a membership with the Automóvil Club Argentino (ACA), which has a useful emergency breakdown www.aca.org.ar), or at any of the ACA service stations.

Taxis

There are two main types of taxi in Argentina: regular urban taxis that you can flag down in the street; and remises, or minicab radio taxis, that you must book by phone or at their central booking booth. Urban taxis are fitted with meters – make sure they use them – and each municipality has its own rates. Remises operate with rates fixed according to the destination and are less expensive than taxis for out-of-town and long-distance trips. Often, it makes more sense to hire a remís for a day than to rent your own car: it can be more economical, you save yourself the hassle of driving and you’ll normally get the sights pointed out for you along the way.

In some places, such as in the northwest, shared taxis (taxis colectivos) also run on fixed routes between towns: they wait at a given collection point, each passenger pays a set fee and the colectivos leave when full (some carry destination signs on their windscreen, others don’t, so always ask). They often drop you at a place of your choice at the other end, making them a faster and more convenient alternative to buses, often for only marginally more money. Taxis colectivos also drive up and down fixed routes within certain cities: flag one down and pay your share (usually posted on the windscreen). The app-based taxi service Uber operates in Buenos Aires though it has experienced its fair share of legal problems, meaning service can be up and down. Due to occasional police crackdowns on the service, drivers will usually expect you to sit in the front seat, though of course passengers aren’t obliged to if they don’t want to. Cabify, a Spanish-owned ride-sharing app, also operates in Buenos Aires.

By boat

Boat services in Argentina fall into two broad categories: those that serve as a functional form of transport, and (with some overlap) those that you take to enjoy tourist sights. The two ferry services you are most likely to use are the comfortable ones from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay and Montevideo (also served by the speedier hydrofoil) and the much more spartan Chilean ones that transport foot passengers and vehicles across the Strait of Magellan into Tierra del Fuego at Punta Delgada and Porvenir. There are also several practical river crossings throughout the Litoral region, for example connecting Concordia with Salto in Uruguay, or linking Goya in Corrientes with Reconquista in Santa Fe, as well as numerous crossings from Misiones to neighbouring Paraguay and Brazil. Tigre, just northwest of the capital, tends towards the pleasure-trips end of the market, and offers boat trips around the Delta and to Isla Martín García; there is, however, one small ferry that crosses the river to Carmelo in Uruguay.

ADDRESSES

Addresses are nearly always written with the street name followed by the street number – thus, San Martín 2443; with avenues (avenidas), the abbreviation "Av or Avda appears before the name – thus, Av San Martín 2443. The relatively rare abbreviation c/ for calle (street) is used only to avoid confusion in a city that has streets named after other cities – thus c/Tucumán 564, Salta or c/Salta 1097, Tucumán – or where streets are numbered rather than named – c/24, for example. If the name is followed by s/n" (sin número), it means the building is numberless, frequently the case in small villages and for larger buildings such as hotels or town halls. Sometimes streets whose names have been officially changed continue to be referred to by their former names, even in written addresses. In most cities, blocks (cuadras or manzanas) go up in 100s, making it relatively easy to work out on a map where a hotel at no. 977 or a restaurant at no. 2233 is located.

In Patagonia, most boat trips are designed purely for their scenic value, including ones that give access to the polar scenery of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and the alpine Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi.

By rail

Argentina’s train network, developed through British investment in the late nineteenth century and nationalized by the Perón administration in 1948, collapsed in 1993 when government subsidies were withdrawn. The railways are now in a pitiful state, with very little in the way of long-distance services – there’s a handful in Buenos Aires Province, cheaper than the bus but considerably less savoury. The government has announced a plethora of measures and licences intended to reinvigorate the system and to introduce new, modern services, most notably a controversial US$4 billion bullet train connecting Buenos Aires, Rosario and Córdoba, the licence for which has been awarded but which remains on hold indefinitely at the time of writing. Currently, Buenos Aires to Rosario takes a hardly speedy six and a half hours.

You’re far less likely to want to use Argentine trains as a method of getting from place to place, however, than you are to try one of the country’s tourist trains, where the aim is simply to travel for the fun of it. There are two principal lines: La Trochita, the Old Patagonian Express from Esquel; and the Tren a las Nubes, one of the highest railways in the world, climbing through the mountains from Salta towards the Chilean border.

Cycling

Most towns with a tourist infrastructure have at least one place that rents out bicycles for half- or full-day visits to sights at very reasonable prices. These excursions can be great fun, but remember to bring spare inner tubes and a pump, especially if you’re cycling off surfaced roads, and check that the brakes and seat height are properly adjusted. Dedicated bike paths have appeared; Buenos Aires now has a substantial 250km, and also a free bike hire scheme. Don’t expect much consideration from other vehicles on the road, though. There are almost no places that rent out motorbikes.

Argentina is also a popular destination for more serious cyclists, and expeditions along routes such as the arduous, partly unsurfaced RN-40 attract mountain-biking devotees who often value physical endurance above the need to see sights (most points of interest off RN-40 lie a good way west along branch roads, which deters most people from visiting more than one or two). Trips such as these need to be planned thoroughly, and should only be attempted by experienced expedition cyclists with top-quality equipment and plenty of spares.

Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking always involves an element of risk, but it can also be one of the most rewarding ways to travel, especially if you can speak at least elementary conversational Spanish. It is getting trickier to hitchhike in Argentina: some truck drivers are prohibited by company rules from picking you up, others are reluctant as it often invalidates car insurance or you become the liability of the driver. In general, it is not advisable for women travelling on their own to hitchhike in Argentina, and it isn’t normal to head out of large urban areas by hitchhiking: you’re far better off catching a local bus out to an outlying service station or road checkpoint and trying from there. In the south of the country, hitching is still generally very safe. In places such as Patagonia, where roads are few and traffic sparse, you’ll often find yourself part of a queue, especially in summer. If you do try to hitchhike, always travel with sufficient reserves of water, food, clothes and shelter; you can get stranded for days in some of the more isolated spots.

< Back to Basics

Accommodation

Accommodation in Argentina runs the gamut from campsites and youth hostels to fabulously luxurious estancias (ranches) and opulent hotels offering every conceivable amenity. Between these two extremes you’ll find a whole variety of establishments, including charming old colonial houses with balconies and dark and seedy hotels that lack so much as a window. Informal room rental is also common in towns with seasonal influxes of tourists but too few hotels to cope, while Airbnb has taken off in recent years, especially in Buenos Aires.

Prices vary considerably depending on where you are in the country. The standard given throughout this Guide reflects double room rates in high season, but not over bank holidays or the festival season. Areas receiving large numbers of foreign visitors, particularly Buenos Aires and Patagonia, have seen prices rise sharply in recent years; less-visited areas offer less variety but also much better bargains. Even in the capital, however, you can expect to pay slightly less for comparable accommodation than you would in most European countries or North America. Single travellers on a budget and seeking more privacy than is available at a youth hostel will find things harder, although the number of places offering per-person prices appears to be on the rise, especially at resorts and estancias where meals or activities are included. Discounts can sometimes be negotiated, particularly if you are staying for a longer period. Bear in mind that the 21 percent IVA tax is often not included in quoted prices, while places aimed at foreigners may quote in US$ rather than pesos; you can claim this tax back at your departure point. If paying with cash dollars, you may be able to strike a deal on the exchange rate in more remote areas, though it’s best to check when reserving.

Hotels

Most towns in Argentina will have at least one hotel, though in many places these are unimaginative, rather drab