Lonely Planet Brazil

By Regis St Louis

Lonely Planet’s Brazil is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Marvel at Iguacu Falls, take a jungle trip, and frolick in the waves at Ipanema Beach; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Brazil and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Brazil Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Brazil’s best experiences and where to have them

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Planning tools for family travelers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Color maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 115 maps 

Covers Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais & Espírito Santo, Sao Paulo State, Parana, Santa Catarina, Rio Grande do Sul, Brasilia & Goias, Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do Sul, Bahia, Sergipe & Alagoas, Pernambuco, Paraiba & Rio Grande do Norte, Ceara, Piaui & Maranhao, The Amazon

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Brazil, our most comprehensive guide to Brazil, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less traveled. 

 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Pocket Rio de Janeiro, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Oct 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580453

Regis St Louis

Regis St. Louis creció en una pequeña ciudad del Medio Oeste de EEUU, el tipo de lugar que alimenta grandes sueños de viaje, y desarrolló una temprana fascinación por los dialectos extranjeros y las culturas del mundo. Pasó sus años de formación estudiando ruso y un puñado de lenguas romances, que le fueron de mucha utilidad en sus viajes por gran parte del planeta. Regis ha participado en más de 50 títulos de Lonely Planet cubriendo destinos en seis continentes. Sus viajes le han llevado desde las montañas de Kamchatka, pasando por remotas aldeas isleñas en Melanesia, hasta grandes paisajes urbanos. Cuando no está viajando vive en Nueva Orleans.

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Brazil

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Brazil

Brazil’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time Brazil

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Carnaval

Outdoors

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Rio de Janeiro

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Rio de Janeiro State

Costa Verde

Ilha Grande & Vila do Abraão

Paraty

Itatiaia Region

Parque Nacional do Itatiaia

Visconde de Mauá

Penedo

North of Rio de Janeiro

Petrópolis

Teresópolis

Nova Friburgo

East of Rio de Janeiro

Saquarema

Arraial do Cabo

Cabo Frio

Búzios

Minas Gerais & Espírito Santo

Minas Gerais

Belo Horizonte

Ouro Preto

Mariana

Lavras Novas

Congonhas

São João del Rei

Tiradentes

Caxambu

Aiuruoca & the Vale do Matutu

Diamantina

Serro & Around

Parque Nacional da Serra Do Cipó

Tabuleiro

Parque Natural do Caraça

Parque Nacional de Caparaó

Espírito Santo

Vitória

Itaúnas

Guarapari & Around

Domingos Martins

Pedra Azul

São Paulo State

São Paulo City

Paulista Coast

Ubatuba

São Sebastião

Ilhabela

Iguape & Around

Paraná

Curitiba

Morretes

Paranaguá

Ilha do Mel

Iguaçu Falls & Around

Foz do Iguaçu

Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil)

Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina)

Santa Catarina

Ilha de Santa Catarina

Florianópolis

North Island

East Coast

South Island

The Mainland

Joinville

Blumenau

North of Florianópolis

South of Florianópolis

Rio Grande do Sul

Porto Alegre

Serra Gaúcha

Bento Gonçalves

Vale dos Vinhedos

Pinto Bandeira

Gramado

Cambará do Sul

Litoral Gaúcho

Torres

Rio Grande

Brasília & Goiás

Brasília

Goiás

Goiânia

Cidade de Goiás

Pirenópolis

Parque Nacional da Chapada Dos Veadeiros

Alto Paraíso de Goiás

São Jorge

Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do Sul

Mato Grosso

Cuiabá

Chapada dos Guimarães

Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimarães

Bom Jardim

Poconé

Alta Floresta

The Pantanal

Northern Pantanal

Southern Pantanal

Mato Grosso do Sul

Campo Grande

Corumbá

Bonito & Around

Ponta Porã

Bahia

Salvador

Recôncavo

Cachoeira & São Felix

North of Salvador

Praia do Forte

Mangue Seco

South of Salvador

Morro de São Paulo

Boipeba

Valença

Barra Grande

Itacaré

Ilhéus

Porto Seguro

Arraial d’Ajuda

Trancoso

Caraíva

Caravelas

West of Salvador

Lençóis

Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina

Sergipe & Alagoas

Sergipe

Aracaju

Alagoas

Maceió

Praia do Francês

Penedo

Maragogi

Pernambuco, Paraíba & Rio Grande do Norte

Pernambuco

Recife

Olinda

Fernando de Noronha

Paraíba

João Pessoa

Rio Grande do Norte

Natal

Praia da Pipa

São Miguel do Gostoso

Ceará, Piauí & Maranhão

Ceará

Fortaleza

Canoa Quebrada

Icaraí de Amontada

Jericoacoara

Maranhão

São Luís

Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses

The Amazon

Pará

Belém

Algodoal

Ilha de Marajó

Santarém

Floresta Nacional do Tapajós

Alter do Chão

Tocantins

Palmas

Taquarussú

Amazonas

Manaus

Rio Negro Basin

Tefé

Mamirauá Reserve

The Triple Frontier

Roraima

Boa Vista

Rondônia

Porto Velho

Guajará-Mirim

Acre

Rio Branco

Xapuri

Brasiléia

Amazon Wildlife

UNDERSTAND

History

Brazil’s People & Lifestyles

Brazilian Rhythms

Football Frenzy

Cinema & Literature

Architecture

Landscapes & Wildlife

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodations

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Shopping

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Transportation

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

River

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitchhiking

Local Transportation

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Brazil

The music, the beaches, the wildlife and, most importantly, the people: it’s hard not to fall for Brazil. Rio de Janeiro is one of my favorite cities – I never tire of watching the sunset from Arpoador, chasing the samba scene in Lapa or wandering the streets of Santa Teresa. But Rio is just the beginning, and in Brazil there really is no end. I have fond memories spotting wildlife, making friends in small towns and finding incredible musicians in unlikely places. There’s really no other country that offers so much.

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Dancers, Salvador | PETER ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES ©

By Regis St Louis, Writer

regis-st-louis-2019-BW

png @regisstlouis png regisstlouis

For more about Our Writers

Brazil’s Top Experiences

1CAPTIVATING LANDSCAPES

Blessed with verdant rainforests, thundering waterfalls, craggy mountains and tropical islands, it’s easy to see why Brazilians say ‘Deus e Brasileiro’ (God is Brazilian). Few countries can boast such a variety of natural treasures, with dramatic scenery in every state — from the dunes and lagoons of Maranhão to the deep canyons of Rio Grande do Sul (pictured).

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THIAGOSANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina

A pristine outdoor wonderland of rushing waterfalls, crystal-blue pools, rugged hiking trails and natural waterslides, Chapada Diamantina is a deliciously unspoiled national park well off the beaten path.

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Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina | MARCIO PASCALE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Iguaçu Falls

The thunderous roar of 275 falls crashing across Brazil’s border with Argentina floors even the most jaded traveler. Loud, angry, unstoppable and impossibly gorgeous, Iguaçu will leave you stunned and slack-jawed at the absolute power of Mother Nature.

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Iguaçu Falls | NIDO HUEBL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pão de Açúcar

From a lofty perch in Rio, the landscape is pure undulating green hills and golden beaches lapped by blue sea, with rows of skyscrapers sprouting along the shore. The ride up is good fun: all-glass aerial trams whisk you up to the top. The adventurous can rock-climb their way to the summit.

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Pão de Açúcar | JUAN CARLOS RUIZ/500PX ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

2BEACHES & ISLANDS

Stretching along some 8000km of coastline, you’ll find idyllic tropical getaways, vibrant big-city praias (beaches) and rainforest-fringed sands. It’s well worth planning a trip around Brazil’s enchanting islands, from the paradise-like shores of Fernando de Noronha to the mountain-backed beaches of Ilha Grande. You’ll also find some surprises, including palm-fringed white-sand beaches, tucked into the rainforest many miles from the ocean.

Fernando de Noronha

This archipelago has everything a tropical getaway should: jaw-dropping scenery and seascapes, fine beaches, the best diving and snorkeling in the country, good surfing, memorable hikes and plentiful visible wildlife.

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Baía dos Porcos | MAURICIO M FAVERO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Santa Catarina

Whether you hang out in Florianópolis or head south to Guarda do Embaú (one of Brazil’s best surfing spots) or Praia do Rosa (the state’s most sophisticated beach resort), a powerful punch of wow will greet you the first time you dig your toes into the state’s unspoiled sands.

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Surfing, Santa Catarina | FLAVIO CONCEIÇÃO FOTOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Alter do Chão

This Amazonian destination is best known for its picturesque setting: an island made entirely of fine white sand lapped by tea-colored water. But it is also a gateway to a national forest, with massive samaúma trees and a chance to stay with local rubber-tapper families.

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Alter do Chão | PARALAXIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

3BIG ADVENTURES

Brazil offers big adventures for travelers with budgets large and small. There’s horseback riding and wildlife-watching in the Pantanal, kayaking flooded forests and treetop climbs in the Amazon, ascending rocky cliffs to panoramic views over canyons in the interior, soaring over coastlines on tandem hang-gliding flights, surfing stellar breaks off palm-fringed beaches and snorkeling crystal-clear rivers or coral reefs – all are part of the great Brazilian experience.

Ilha Grande

Spend days hiking through lush Atlantic rainforest, snorkeling amid aquamarine seas and cooling off in refreshing waterfalls. With no motor vehicles to spoil the party, this is one clean, green island – a true nature-lover’s paradise.

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Ilha Grande | VITORMARIGO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lençóis Maranhenses

A stunning landscape of high dunes (and crystal-clear, freshwater lagoons from March to September), the Lençóis Maranhenses can be visited by 4WD tour, by boat down the jungle-lined Rio Preguiças or, for the adventurous, on a three- or four-day trek right across the Lençóis.

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Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses | IGNACIO PALACIOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bonito

Book yourself on a smorgasbord of aquatic adventures in the jaw-dropping surrounds of the Serra da Bodoquena. Whether you’re snorkeling through limpid waters or rappelling (abseiling) to the center of the earth at the Abismo Anhumas, Bonito is packed with extraordinary experiences.

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A cave with a lake, Bonito | RICARDO NISHIOKA MORI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

4CITY LIFE

Brazil’s urban destinations set the stage for exploring the nation’s astonishing diversity. You can wander through Asian markets in São Paulo, get a taste of gaucho culture in the southern city of Torres and flash-forward to the future in architecturally avant-garde Brasília. The city experience is about many things: from munching on street food to taking in cutting-edge exhibitions at a neighborhood gallery and watching the sunset from a rooftop bar.

Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro

Hilltop ’hood Santa Teresa has a bohemian spirit that offers a dramatic counterpoint to Rio’s famous seaside. You’ll find old-school bars, art-loving B&Bs and lush backyards where marmosets roam, with magical views over downtown Rio and the bay.

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Santa Teresa | PHOTO BY LEONARDO MARTINS/GETTY IMAGES ©

São Paulo

São Paulo is home to a pool of 20 million potential foodies, cocktail connoisseurs and clubbers and nearly 30,000 restaurants, bars and clubs to satiate them. It’s a gluttonous avalanche of bolinhos (appetizers), booze and beats that outruns the sunrise on most nights. Saúde!

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Alfresco dining, São Paulo | TPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Salvador

The world capital of Afro-Brazil, Salvador is famous for capoeira, Candomblé, Olodum, colonial Portuguese architecture, African street food and one of the oldest lighthouses in the Americas.

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Pelourinho, Salvador | LAZYLLAMA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

5WILDLIFE WATCHING

South America’s largest nation is home to a staggering array of plant and animal species, with memorable wildlife-watching in the rainforests, wetlands and along the coast. Even in cities like Rio and Salvador, you might spy marmosets, agoutis or brightly plumed tropical birds, while for a more immersive experience you can plot an itinerary into the Amazon or the Pantanal, and spend your days ticking off extraordinary wildlife sightings.

Mamirauá Reserve

In a remote corner of northern Brazil, this pristine reserve is one of the best places to spot Amazonian wildlife and experience the allure of the mother of all rainforests.

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Hoatzin | ALEX SABERI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Estação Biológica de Caratinga

Head to this remote forested reserve in Minas Gerais for the chance to see some of the largest primates in the Americas.

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Howler Monkey | GTW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Pantanal

Few places can match the wildlife-watching experience provided by the Pantanal, a wondrous wetland. From capybaras to storks, the animal life abounds and is easy to see in the open surroundings.

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Jaguar | PHOTOCECHCZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

6COLONIAL TOWNS

You can delve into the past on a stroll through Brazil’s historic centers, half a dozen of which are Unesco World Heritage sites. Pastel-hued buildings line the cobblestone streets, while the gilded interiors and evocative carvings of 300-year-old churches attest to the fine craftsmanship of early artists. Yet far from being frozen-in-time relics from the past, these picturesque settlements remain vibrant centers of contemporary culture.

Paraty

No place in Brazil offers such an enticing blend of colonial architecture and natural beauty as Paraty. Gorgeous beaches and a stunning mountain backdrop jostle for attention with the multihued, cobble-stoned charms of the 18th-century town center.

Olinda

Photogenic Olinda has tranquil winding lanes, colonial churches and artists’ galleries, plus a soundtrack of frevo and maracatu (Afro-Brazilian music with a slow, heavy beat).

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Olinda | MARCIO JOSE BASTOS SILVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ouro Preto

With more ups and downs than a roller coaster, the 18th-century streets of Ouro Preto veer precipitously between one baroque masterpiece and the next.

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Ouro Preto | UWE BERGWITZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

7MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE

Wherever there’s music, that carefree lust for life tends to appear – whether dancing with cariocas at Rio’s atmospheric samba clubs or following powerful drumbeats through the streets of Salvador. There’s the dancehall forró of the Northeast, twirling carimbó of the Amazon, scratch-skilled DJs of São Paulo and an endless variety of regional sounds that extends from the twangy country music of the sunbaked sertanejo to the hard-edged reggae of Maranhão.

Belo Horizonte

Take in the lively arts scene and buzzing nightlife of the Minas Gerais capital. Lacking the pretension of some other cities, Belo is famous for its welcoming botecos (neighborhood bars).

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Drumming in Belo Horizonte | FRED PINHEIRO / EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lapa

Gateway to Rio’s most animated nightlife, Lapa is home to packed, bar-lined streets where the rhythms of samba spill out of 19th-century facades.

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Lapa, Rio de Janeiro | GONZALO AZUMENDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Búzios

Bask on the beach by day and hit the clubs by night at this stylish resort town, located a few hours (by bus or car) east of Rio.

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Búzios, Rio de Janeiro | DONATAS DABRAVOLSKAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Brazil’s Top Experiences

8BRAZILIAN CUISINE

Finding the iconic national dish is a challenge in a country with such diverse regional flavors. You’ll find African influences in the northeast, European recipes in the southeast and magnificent river fish in the Amazon and Pantanal regions. Brazil embraces its unique ingredients and tropical fruits rarely found elsewhere, such as jabuticaba, a grape relative; or cupuaçu, a fruit from the Amazon basin. Local markets are gateways to the culinary largesse.

Vale dos Vinhedos

This scenic valley in the south is the heart of Brazil’s wine-growing region (thanks to 19th-century Italian immigrants), and has some outstanding farm-to-table restaurants as well.

Belém

Sample lip-numbing tacacá (a soup) and many delicious Amazonian fish, such as the prized tucanaré (peacock bass). Start the culinary exploration in the vibrant food hall of Estação das Docas.

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A dinner spread, Belém | CANNON PHOTOGRAPHY LLC/ALAMY ©

SENAC

Take a cooking class or simply come for the buffet, which spreads out all the great Bahian dishes, including mouth-watering varieties of moqueca (a seafood stew made with coconut milk).

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Real (R$)

Language

Portuguese

Visas

Required for some nationalities, including holders of passports from the US, Canada and Australia.

Money

ATMS are widespread in Brazil. Credit cards are accepted at most restaurants, shops and hotels.

Cell Phones

Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked European and Australian phones, and in US phones on the GSM network.

Time

Brazil has four time zones. Rio and São Paulo are on Brasília time (GMT/UTC minus three hours).

When to Go

03-climate-bra12

High Season (Dec–Mar)

A Brazil’s high season coincides with the northern-hemisphere winter.

A A hot, festive time – expect higher prices and minimum stays (typically four nights) during Carnaval.

A It’s particularly busy in Rio and popular beach destinations.

Shoulder (Apr & Oct)

A The weather is warm and dry along the coast, though it can be chilly in the south.

A Prices and crowds are average, though Easter week draws crowds and high prices.

Low Season (May–Sep)

A Aside from July, which is a school-holiday month, you’ll find lower prices and mild temperatures in the south.

A July to September are good months to visit the Amazon or Pantanal.

Useful Websites

Embratur (www.visitbrasil.com) Official site of Brazil’s Ministry of Tourism.

Insider’s Guide to Rio (www.ipanema.com) Tips and planning info, with special sections on Carnaval and gay Rio.

Rio Times (www.riotimesonline.com) English-language news and resources on Brazil.

What About São Paulo (http://whataboutsaopaulo.com) Blog exploring the highs and lows of life in Brazil’s biggest city.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/brazil) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than R$200

A Dorm bed: R$40–80

A Sandwich and drink in a juice bar: R$18–25

A Long-distance buses: around R$15–18 per hour of travel

Midrange: R$200–400

A Standard double room in a hotel: R$160–300

A Dinner for two in a midrange restaurant: R$80–160

A Jungle trip: R$150–350 per day

A Admission to nightclubs and live-music venues: R$20–50

A One-way flight from Rio to Salvador/Iguaçu/Manaus: from R$470/500/550

Top end: More than R$400

A Boutique hotel: from R$500

A Upscale jungle lodges outside Manaus: R$600–1200 per night

A Dinner for two at top restaurants: R$200–500

Opening Hours

Banks 9am–3pm Monday–Friday

Bars 6pm–2am

Cafes 8am–10pm

Nightclubs 10pm–4am Thursday–Saturday

Post offices 9am–5pm Monday–Friday; some open Saturday morning

Restaurants Noon–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm

Shops 9am–6pm Monday–Friday and 9am–1pm Saturday

Arriving in Brazil

Galeão International Airport (Rio de Janeiro) Premium Ônibus 2018 (R$16, one to two hours, every 30 minutes) buses to Flamengo, Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and other neighborhoods. Radio taxis (set fare R$130, 45 to 90 minutes) to Copacabana and Ipanema. Metered yellow-and-blue comum taxis cost between R$82 and R$100. Ride-sharing services cost around R$60. Shuttle service costs R$25.

GRU Airport (São Paulo) The Airport Bus Service (www.airportbusservice.com.br; R$50) is the most efficient way to/from GRU Airport. Guarucoop (www.guarucoop.com.br) is the only taxi service allowed to operate at the airport (R$150 to Jardins or Vila Madalena, R$157 to Vila Mariana). Ride-share services cost about half as much. By train, the brand new CPTM Linha 13 (Jade) connects GRU Airport with Engenheiro Goulart station on Linha 12 (Safira) in northeast São Paulo.

Getting Around

Plane Useful for crossing Brazil’s immense distances; can save days of travel; prices are generally high, but airfare promotions are frequent.

Bus Extensive services from comun (conventional) to leito (overnight sleepers) throughout the country, except for the Amazon. For timetables and bus operators, check out Busca Ônibus (www.buscaonibus.com.br).

Boat Slow, uncomfortable, but brag-worthy transport between towns in the Amazon, with trips measured in days rather than hours. You’ll need a hammock, snacks, drinking water and a high tolerance for boredom.

For much more on Getting Around

First Time Brazil

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Make sure you have your Brazilian visa if you need one.

A Inform your debit-/credit-card company of your travel plans.

A Make arrangements to be able to use your mobile phone upon arrival.

A Download essential smartphone apps (see our Top Tips section below for more on this)

What to Pack

A Good walking shoes

A A sarong (handy for the beach and as an extra towel)

A Lightweight rain jacket (for those unexpected tropical downpours)

A Brazilian electrical adaptor

A Portable water filter (to cut down on waste from plastic water bottles)

A Language phrasebook

A Insect repellent

A Sunscreen, hat and sunglasses

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Brazil is a massive country, and it’s impossible to see it all. Pick one or two regions, rather than losing a lot of time transiting between far-flung parts of the country just ticking off highlights.

A If you haven’t already, download WhatsApp and set up your profile. Tour operators, guides, restaurants, guesthouses and everyone else uses it. It’s also the best way to stay in touch with Brazilians you meet.

A Using a ride-sharing app (like Uber, 99Taxis or Easy Taxi) to get around major towns and cities is generally faster and cheaper than using a traditional taxi.

A Brazil has many facets; decide what kind of trip you want while making your plans: wildlife-watching vs big-city nightlife, remote beaches and island-hopping vs cultural experiences etc. Customize your itinerary based on your own interests.

What to Wear

The dress code is very casual in Brazil, but it’s a good idea to bring along something a bit more dressy for a night out. Given the heat and humidity, lightweight, natural, breathable fabrics are best.

On the beach, women generally wear tiny bikinis, and men wear tight swim trunks. Everyone flaunts it all.

Sleeping

Brazil has a wide range of lodging, covering all budgets. Reserve well in advance when booking during high season (December to March).

Hotels From simple accommodations in cookie-cutter high-rises to boutique options with ocean views in luxury buildings.

Pousadas Guesthouses running the gamut from basic to plush, with many family-run options.

Hostels Dorms and a few private rooms with communal good cheer at locations across the country.

Jungle lodges Found in the Amazon; prices are midrange to high and luxuries are few, but the wildlife-watching can be astonishing.

Safe Travel

Crime is a concern in Brazil, but if you take basic precautions, you’ll minimize your risk of becoming a target.

A Dress down and leave expensive jewelry, watches and sunglasses at home.

A Carry only the money you’ll need for the day.

A After dark, don’t ever walk along empty streets, in deserted parks or on urban beaches.

A Use ATMs inside buildings. Before doing so, be very aware of your surroundings.

Bargaining

A little bargaining for hotel rooms should become second nature. Before you agree to take a room, ask for a better price: ‘Tem desconto?’ (Is there a discount?) and ‘Pode fazer um melhor preço?’ (Can you give a better price?). There’s sometimes a discount for paying à vista (cash).

You should also bargain when shopping in markets. In unmetered taxis, be sure to agree on the price before departing.

Tipping

Hotels Tipping is optional for housekeepers, but appreciated.

Parking Usually R$2 or more; assistants do not receive wages and are dependent on tips.

Taxis Not expected but most people round up to the nearest real.

Tours It’s customary to tip guides at the end of a tour, and certainly appreciated if you can give a little to the assistant or boat operator(s).

Restaurants A 10% service charge is usually included.

Phrases to Learn Before You Go

English is not widely spoken in Brazil. You’ll have the best luck communicating in popular tourist destinations like Rio de Janeiro. It helps to master a few basic Portuguese phrases. You’ll have a head start if you’ve studied Spanish, as Portuguese and Spanish share many words and grammatical structures. The pronunciation, however, is completely different, and very few Brazilians speak Spanish. Note too, that European and Brazilian Portuguese have different spelling, pronunciation and to some extent, different vocabulary.

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Etiquette

Brazilians are pretty informal, but there are a few key rules of etiquette.

Greetings When greeting or bidding goodbye to women, an air kiss is exchanged on each cheek (start to her left). Men shake hands with one another.

Dining Use a napkin or a toothpick when eating finger food. Brazilians tend to eat pizza with a knife and fork.

Touchy subjects Brazilians are exasperated by their country’s corruption, but can be defensive if foreigners criticize their government or talk about poverty or religion.

What’s New

Brazilians are eager to put the COVID-19 pandemic behind them and focus on brighter days ahead, including a celebration for the bicentennial of Brazil’s independence in September 2022. Big challenges remain, though, as the nation grapples with income inequality, poverty and climate change — a deep concern for 93% of the country according to a recent survey.

A New Savior

Under construction since 2019, the towering statue of Cristo Protetor de Encantado (Christ the Protector of Encantado) in Rio Grande do Sul will be taller than Rio’s open-armed savior when completed in 2022. The new Cristo will stand 43m high and visitors will be able to take an elevator 34m skyward into the heart of the statue, where a glass-walled observatory will give views over the forested peaks and city of Jaraguá do Sul below.

Ashes of the Amazon

In 2021, artist Thiago Mundano painted a massive mural on a building in São Paulo using materials made from the ashes of burned rainforests. O Brigadista do Floresta (The Forest Firefighter) is made from 200kg of ashes the artist collected from ravaged areas in the Amazon, the Atlantic coast, the cerrado and the Pantanal. As the burning of the Amazon increases (increasing by 16% per year), the painting serves as a strong warning about the deadly consequences of inaction on climate change.

Black History Month

Although November 20 has been officially recognized since the 1960s, Dia da Consciência Negra (Black History Day) has become increasingly important in recent years, as the nation honors the many contributions made by Brazilian people of color – along with the many hardships and injustices they’ve endured. And today the entire month of November is dedicated to the celebration of Black Brazilian history.

Museum Makeover

Closed since 2013, the Museu do Ipiranga in São Paulo will reopen in 2022 if all goes according to plan. Set near the site where Emperor Pedro I proclaimed Brazilian independence from Portugal, the museum first opened in 1895 and houses an impressive historical collection of artifacts, paintings and historical documents. The modernization will double the exhibition space while also polishing up the palatial exterior of the 1884 building.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN BRAZIL

Regis St Louis, Lonely Planet writer

Brazil suffered heavily during the COVID-19 pandemic, with over 600,000 dying from the virus – the second highest death toll worldwide. Many Brazilians blame President Bolsonaro for the excessive loss of life, and in October, 2021, the Brazilian senate recommended he be charged with crimes against humanity for his botched handling of the pandemic. All eyes are on 2022, when Brazilians will vote for the next president and, with a 24% approval rating, Bolsonaro seems unlikely to win a second term.

Surprisingly, Brazil’s economy bounced back in 2021, with GDP growing over 5% during the year, fueled in part by booming trade. The poorest of Brazil’s people, however, had little cause to celebrate – as unemployment doubled and food inflation rose more than 40% since the beginning of the pandemic. This has thrown millions of Brazilians into extreme poverty.

Reemergence of Wildlife

In recent years, there’s been some good news when it comes to rare birds in Brazil. Five avian species endemic to Brazil have been rescued from extinction, including the Spix’s macaw, famously depicted in the animated film Rio. In 2020, some 52 Spix’s macaws, bred in captivity, were brought to Brazil and will be reintroduced into a reserve in Bahia in 2022.

World Heritage Recognition

In 2021, the Sítio Roberto Burle Marx in Rio became the latest Brazilian entry added to the list of Unesco World Heritage Sites. The honor recognizes the four decades of work that Brazil’s greatest landscape architect devoted to creating an extraordinary garden that embodies a living work of art. Begun in 1949, the 35-hectare site contains some 3500 species of tropical and subtropical plants in distinct zones that include a mangrove swamp, restinga (a type of coastal broadleaf forest) and Atlantic Forest. It’s the first modern tropical garden ever to receive Unesco designation.

LGBTIQ+ Rights

Despite the anti-gay pronouncements of president Bolsonaro, Brazil continues to make strides in the realm of LGBTIQ+ rights. Same-sex marriage has been legal since 2013 and adoption by same-sex couples since 2010. In 2019, the Supreme Court ruled that discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation is a crime and made it illegal to deny LGBTIQ+ people access to education or jobs, to refuse service in stores, or to bar them from public buildings.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/Brazil/articles.

Rio Times (www.riotimesonline.com) English-language news about Brazil and Latin America.

Visit Brasil (www.instagram.com/visitbrasil) Inspiring photos capture Brazil’s diverse natural beauty.

Brazilian Report (www.brazilian.report) Podcast in English that delves into politics, economics and social issues.

Chef Leticia (www.chefleticia.com/blog-3-column) Recipes and cultural insight from a well-known Brazilian chef, teacher and cookbook author.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Plant-based foods

Number of beaches More than 2000

Percentage of population with African ancestry 51%

Population 215 million

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Visa Changes

If you haven’t been to Brazil in a few years, you might be surprised to discover visa-free travel for a handful of nationalities. In one of the notable achievements of the Brazilian tourism industry in the last 20 years, travelers from the US, Canada, Australia and Japan no longer need a visa to visit the country for stays of up to 90 days. As before, UK, New Zealand and EU citizens still do not need a visa to visit.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Carnaval, February or March

Semana Santa, April or May

Bumba Meu Boi, June

Oktoberfest, October

Reveillon, December

January

Following the excitement of New Year’s Eve, Brazil starts off the year in high gear, with steamy beach days and the buzz of pre-Carnaval revelry.

z Lavagem do Bonfim

In Salvador, on the second Thursday in January, this equal-parts Catholic and Candomblé fest features a ritual washing of the church steps followed by all-night music and dancing.

February

High season is in full swing, with people-packed beaches, sold-out hotel rooms and the unbridled revelry of Carnaval. It’s a festive and pricey time to travel, and advance planning is essential.

z Carnaval

In February or early March, for the five days preceding Ash Wednesday, the famous bacchanalian event takes place nationwide. It’s liveliest in Rio, Salvador, Olinda and Corumbá, with parades, costumes and round-the-clock merrymaking.

April

After Carnaval, prices dip, the intense heat subsides and the crowds dissipate, particularly in the north and northeast (when heavy rains continue through June). In Minas Gerais, however, Holy Week festivals keep things lively.

0 Semana Santa

In Ouro Preto, Holy Week (the week before Easter) is a colorful event of processions and streets ‘painted’ with flowers. São João del Rei’s Holy Week features parades accompanied by fabulous traditional orchestras. Other well-known Holy Weeks happen in Congonhas and Cidade de Goiás.

May

May is a quiet time for tourism with cooler temperatures beginning to arrive (particularly in the south) and heavy rains still falling in the Amazon.

z Festival Internacional de Balonismo

Torres springs to life for five days in early May or late April when it hosts a colorful hot-air balloon festival. Concerts, extreme sports, films and a country-style fair are among the attractions.

z Virada Cultural

One of the best times to visit São Paulo is during this 24-hour cultural fest. It takes place all across town and features concerts, film screenings, art exhibitions and other events.

z Festa do Divino Espírito Santo

This old-fashioned folk festival in Pirenópolis comprises medieval tournaments, dances and festivities.

June

In the south, winter arrives (with cold weather the norm through August). Tourism-related activities remain curtailed (also through winter) in the north, south and northeast, though it’s a good time to visit the Pantanal.

z São Paulo Pride

It’s official, São Paulo throws the largest gay pride parade on earth in early June, attracting more than three million people to this massive parade.

z Bumba Meu Boi

Maranhão’s magnificent mythic bull festival has African, Indian and Portuguese roots and features singing, dancing, poetry and countless ox costumes. Held from 13 to 30 June.

z Boi-Bumbá

In Parintins in the Amazon, this popular traditional folk festival on the last weekend of June recounts the death and resurrection of an ox, with music and dancing.

z Festas Juninas

Spanning the month of June, the feast days of various saints mark some of the most important folkloric festivals in Brazil. Expect concerts, food stands, fireworks and bonfires. Bahia is one of the best places to be.

July

After months of rain, the dry season arrives in the Amazon, making it a good time to visit. The weather is mild (cold in the far south), but Brazilians travel during July, which is a school-holiday month.

z Festitália

Italians have made many cultural contributions to the south, including this vibrant Blumenau fest featuring a week of wine, pasta and music in mid-July.

z Festival Literária Internacional de Parati

This important literary festival in mid-July brings together celebrated authors from around the world. It also includes film screenings, exhibitions and musical performances.

3 Festival Nacional de Forró

Music lovers wanting to get off the beaten track should make their way up to the pretty beach town of Itaúnas, which hosts 10 days of concerts and dancing (to forró music of course).

August

The tail end of winter is a quiet time in Brazil, with fewer tourists (and limited services) in the south and north. Temperatures are pleasant in the tropics and cold in the south.

z Festival de Gramado

European-style town Gramado hosts an important film festival each year, running for nine days in August. This long-running fest (around since 1973) is a showcase for Brazilian and other Latin American films.

z Folclore Nordestino

Olinda’s highly recommended fest celebrates music and folklore from across the Northeast in late August.

October

The tourist masses and high-season prices haven’t yet arrived, though the weather is beginning to warm and cities are already livening up for the following year’s Carnaval.

z Círio de Nazaré

Belém’s enormous annual event on the second Sunday in October brings one million to the streets to take part in the procession of one of Brazil’s most important icons.

6 Oktoberfest

This beer-drinking extravaganza in Blumenau is the best place to connect to southern Brazil’s German roots. Held mid-October.

0 Bienal de São Paulo

This major art event occurs in even-numbered years (next in 2022 and 2024) between October and December and showcases the work of over 120 artists from around the globe.

z Rio International Film Festival

Rio’s international film festival – Latin America’s biggest – features more than 200 films from all over the world, shown at some 35 theaters over several weeks in October or Novmber.

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Bumba Meu Boi, Maranhão | KSENIA RAGOZINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

November

This late spring month can be a great time to visit, as the crowds are generally small and you can often score good off-season deals (flights, accommodations).

z Maceió Fest

Maceió’s biggest bash of the year is much like Carnaval, with street parades, outlandish costumes, bars that are open 24 hours and a general joie de vivre among the populace, only it’s held in the third week of November.

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Reveillon, Rio de Janeiro | ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

December

Summer marks the beginning of Brazil’s most festive season (through February), with hot temperatures and ideal beach days. The crowds are growing and prices are rising (but typically rise even more in January and February).

z Carnatal

The country’s biggest ‘off-season Carnaval’ is this Salvador-style festival held in Natal in the first week of December. It features raucous street parties and pumping trios elétricos (bands playing atop mobile speaker-trucks).

z Reveillon

Some two million revelers, dressed in white, pack the sands of Copacabana Beach in Rio on 31 December, where music concerts and fireworks ring in the New Year.

Itineraries

Rio & the Southeast

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2 WEEKS

Gorgeous beaches, rainforest-covered islands and historic towns are just some of the things you’ll experience on this loop around the Southeast.

Spend a few days discovering Rio and its beaches, restaurants and incredible music scene before heading to Paraty, a beautifully preserved town with rainforest hikes and stunning beaches nearby. Next, stop in Ubatuba with its jungle-clad mountains and spectacular coastal scenery. Ilhabela is a car-free island of beaches, forests and waterfalls. Stop in São Paulo for high culture, including the nation’s best museums and restaurants.

Head next to exquisite Tiradentes and Ouro Preto, with some of Brazil’s finest colonial architecture. Afterwards, take in a bit of friendly Mineira hospitality, good restaurants and buzzing nightlife in Belo Horizonte. Make a day trip to the outstanding collection of art galleries and gardens at the Instituto de Arte Contemporânea Inhotim, 50km southwest of Belo Horizonte.

Visit the hiker’s paradise of Parque Nacional de Caparaó; further east, relish the dramatic beauty of Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul. Further south you’ll find the stunning beaches and high-end dining and nightlife of Búzios, which makes a great final stop before heading back to Rio.

Itineraries

Eastern Highlights

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1 WEEK

Even on a short trip, you can take in some spectacular scenery and get a taste of Brazil’s staggering diversity. With a few key flights you can maximize your time here.

Start off in the Cidade Maravilhosa, aka Rio de Janeiro. Spend two days taking in grand views from the forested mountaintops overlooking the city (atop Pão de Açúcar and Cristo Redentor), leaving time for relaxing on Ipanema Beach, biking along Copacabana Beach and strolling through the historic center. When evening arrives, head out for dining and drinking in Lebon (Rua Dias Ferreira is a great place to start) and be sure to check a samba club or two in nightlife-packed Lapa.

On days three and four, fly up to Salvador for a heady dose of Afro-Brazilian culture. Check out the brightly painted colonial buildings of the Pelourinho, take in a dazzling dance performance of the Balé Folclórico da Bahia and feast on seafood at Pelô Bistrô. Browse for handicrafts at the Mercado Modelo in Cidade Baixa, and try to catch a sunset out at Barra (the stylish eatery and bar Pereira is a good choice).

On your fifth day, make a day trip out to Morro de São Paulo for a slice of tropical, car-free paradise. Be sure to check out the island’s 17th-century ruins, and pay a visit to a few beaches (go to Segunda Praia for dining and seaside drinks; while less visited Quarta Praia makes for an alluring retreat).

Beat the sunrise for an early-morning flight down to Foz do Iguaçu (via São Paulo). Spend the first day exploring the Brazilian side of the majestic waterfalls. Take the walkways that make up the Trilha das Cataratas (Waterfall Trail) and marvel at the view of the Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat). On your last day, cross to the Argentine side for a walk through rainforest along elevated walkways. Keep an eye out for shimmering butterflies, dazzling hummingbirds, eye-catching toucans and other bird species, as well as the odd monkey. In the afternoon, take a boat trip near the thundering falls. That night toast your adventures with drinks along lively Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng in Foz do Iguaçu.

Itineraries

Best of Brazil

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3 WEEKS

On this epic trip you’ll experience the rhythm-infused towns of the Northeast, the jungles of the Amazon and the biodiversity of the Pantanal, with beaches, tropical islands and historic towns thrown into the mix.

From São Paulo, head east towards Rio, stopping at glorious beaches such as Ubatuba, Trindade and Paraty-Mirim. Leave a couple of days for hiking the rainforest paths and basking on the beaches of Ilha Grande. Continue northeast to Rio de Janeiro, for a hearty dose of nightlife, beach culture and panoramic views.

From there head north, via bus or plane, to Salvador, the country’s Afro-Brazilian gem that’s known for its colorful colonial center, drumming in the streets and lively (and numerous) festivals. Further up the coast visit historic and arts-loving Olinda, then catch a flight from neighboring Recife to the spectacular archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, where you find pretty beaches, snorkeling, diving and a paradise-like setting.

Back on the mainland, travel north, stopping in the backpackers’ paradise of Jericoacoara en route to the surreal dunes in the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses, a stark contrast to the historic beauty of Alcântara. To the west lies Belém, a culturally rich city near the lush island of Ilha de Marajó. Catch a boat up the Amazon to Santarém and on to Alter do Chão for a trip into the jungle. Then continue to the burgeoning city of Manaus.

From Manaus, fly to Brasília to take in its stunning architecture, then visit Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Veadeiros for waterfalls, canyons and dips in natural swimming pools. Next head to Cuiabá, gateway to the breathtaking canyons of Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimarães. Spend a few days horseback riding and boating in the Pantanal, one of Brazil’s best destinations for wildlife watching. Head south via Campo Grande to Bonito for crystal-clear rivers, lush forests and caves. Continue south to the awe-inspiring Iguaçu Falls. Before completing the circle, explore the secluded beaches and charming Germanic towns around Florianópolis.

Itineraries

Bahia & the Northeast

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6 WEEKS

Those looking for the soul of Brazil would do well to focus on the Northeast. A confluence of music, history and culture amid spectacular natural scenery makes for an unforgettable journey.

Catch a flight to Porto Seguro, then quickly make your way to the pretty towns of Arraial d’Ajuda and Trancoso, both blessed with great guesthouses and restaurants, festive nightlife and access to walks on a seemingly endless cliff-backed beach. Continue north to Itacaré, a lively town with great surf and cove beaches reached via trails through hilly rainforest. Then head on to rhythm-filled Salvador, Bahia’s most vibrant and colorful city. From there, catch a boat to Morro de São Paulo, an island with enchanting beaches and a laid-back vibe. Don’t miss boat rides around the island, taking in mangroves, reefs, oysters and the quiet village of Boipeba.

Detour west to the tranquil diamond-mining town of Lençóis, which has pretty outdoor cafes, cobblestone streets, and caves, rivers and waterfalls nearby. From here, head into the Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina for crisp mountain streams, panoramic views and an endless network of trails. Back on the coast, go north to Maceió, a vibrant, youthful city with gorgeous beaches nearby. Keep going north to reach Olinda, home to some of Brazil’s best-preserved colonial buildings and a Unesco World Heritage site. From Olinda’s buzzing neighbor Recife, fly out to Fernando de Noronha, an exquisite archipelago of rich marine life and splendid beaches.

Returning to the mainland, visit beautiful Praia da Pipa, then hit the spectacular coastline stretching from Natal to Jericoacoara, including the enticing coastal spots of São Miguel do Gostoso and Galinhos. In the sandy-street village of Jericoacoara, try your hand at sandboarding, kitesurfing and beachfront capoeira, and watch memorable sunsets. West of Jericoacoara, Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses is a striking landscape of dunes, lagoons and beaches. Continue west to the reggae-charged São Luís, home to 18th-century buildings, seafood restaurants and buzzing nightlife. It’s worth planning a trip around one of the town’s many folkloric festivals. The last stop is Alcântara, a little-visited colonial town with remarkable architecture.

Itineraries

Waterways of the Amazon

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4 WEEKS

Few places ignite the imagination like the Amazon. The largest forest on the planet has an incredible array of plant and animal life. Surprising to many visitors, these wetlands also contain vibrant cities, architectural treasures and beautiful river beaches.

Begin in Belém, a culturally rich city at the mouth of the great river. Explore the revitalized riverfront docks, visit the waterfront market, sample Amazonian dishes and catch a performance at the lavish Teatro da Paz. From here, explore the forest-covered island of Ilha de Marajó, which has bird-filled forests, friendly locals and itinerant water buffalo roaming the streets. Back in Belém, dip south to Palmas, another ultraplanned city like Brasília and the jumping-off point for 4x4 tours of rugged Parque Estadual do Jalapão.

Get a hammock and prepare yourself for a few hardy days of boat travel up the Amazon River. Set off from Belém and stop in Monte Alegre to see ancient rock paintings in the sandstone hills beyond towns. Upstream is Santarém, a pleasant city with many nearby attractions. Also reachable is the virgin rainforest of the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós, where you can lodge in simple pousadas and hike through pristine forest in search of massive samaúma trees. It’s also worth stopping in Alter do Chão for its picturesque lagoon with white-sand beaches.

Continue upriver to Manaus, Amazonia’s largest city. Visit the city’s opera house, market, indigenous museums and nature parks, and the Encontro das Águas. From here, head to the Rio Urubu, base yourself in ecofriendly lodges and take in great wildlife-watching opportunities. Afterwards, go west of Manaus to the small town of Novo Airão, the jumping-off point to the Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi, a remote and pristine rainforest reserve where you can see a stunning array of plant and animal life.

Outside of Tefé, visit the Mamirauá Reserve, a vast rainforest reserve where you can see dolphins, sloths, macaws, various monkey species (including the rare uakari) and other wildlife. From there, continue by river to Tabatinga, a fascinating place where you can visit three different countries in an afternoon (Brazil, Colombia and Peru). End your trip by crossing into Leticia in Colombia and staying in a jungle lodge along the Rio Javari.

Itineraries

Southward Bound

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3 WEEKS

This trip through Brazil’s southernmost states takes in forested islands, scenic beaches, mountainous national parks, historic missions and Bavarian-style towns with largely European roots.

Start in Foz do Iguaçu to gaze at the most impressive waterfalls on the planet. Take short day trips to Argentina and Paraguay to get a taste of lush rainforests before heading east (by overnight bus or quick flight) to Curitiba, a city with an intriguing environmentally friendly design, plus pretty botanic gardens and an Oscar Niemeyer museum. Next, take the scenic train ride to the sleepy waterfront town of Morretes. From there you can visit the Parque Estadual Pico do Marumbi, a lush reserve that offers some memorable walks amid the highlands. Continue on to Paranaguá, the departure point to car-free Ilha do Mel. The forest-covered island has lovely beaches and low-key guesthouses, and is skirted by some pretty trails.

Next head to beer-loving Blumenau and nearby Vale Europeu, where Pomerode boasts Teutonic architecture, blond-haired residents and a local brew more Bavarian than Brazilian. Head back east to the coast and continue south to Ilha de Santa Catarina, a forest-covered gem of sand dunes, sparkling beaches, pretty lagoons and sleepy fishing villages. Keep going south to Guarda do Embaú, a bohemian seaside town with excellent surf. A short jaunt south is Praia do Rosa, which has pretty beaches and whale-watching.

On into Rio Grande do Sul, explore the dramatic canyon and waterfalls of Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra. It’s worth heading further inland to Gramado, a charming mountain resort where gourmet chocolates, fondue and excellent infrastructure might make you feel like you’ve stepped into a Swiss portal. Continue west to Bento Gonçalves, gateway to the award-winning vineyards of the Vale dos Vinhedos, set amid the rolling hills of the Serra Gaucho.

Head south to Porto Alegre for transport links to Santo Ângelo, which leads on to the Jesuit missions. From there you can visit São Miguel das Missões, São João Batista and numerous other holy sites. At trip’s end, return to Porto Alegre for an onward flight.

Plan Your Trip

Carnaval

One of the world’s largest parties, Carnaval – in all its colorful, hedonistic bacchanalia – is celebrated with verve in practically every town and city in Brazil. Millions of visitors come for the spectacular costume parades, rhythm-filled street parties, and merriment of every shape and form.

Carnaval through the Year

If you can’t make it to Brazil during Carnaval, you can still join the party by hitting one of the so-called out-of-season Carnavals.

Carnatal

Natal’s huge out-of-season Carnatal is the country’s biggest, drawing upwards of one million revelers each year. The celebration kicks off in the first week of December, with extensive street parties and Salvador-style trios elétricos (electrically amplified bands playing atop trucks). The big event happens outside the Arena das Dunas.

Fortal

Half a million revelers celebrate Carnaval street-party style at Fortaleza’s big bash in the last weekend of July. Going strong for over 25 years, Fortal brings some of Brazil’s top musicians to town to play forró, sertanejo and other regional sounds. The main action happens in the open-air Cidade Fortal, located some 9km southeast of the city center.

History

Carnaval, like Mardi Gras, originated from various pagan spring festivals. During the Middle Ages, these tended to be wild parties until tamed, in Europe, by both the Reformation and the Counter-Reformation. But not even the heavy hand of the Inquisition could squelch Carnaval in the Portuguese colony, where it came to acquire indigenous costumes and African rhythms.

Some speculate that the word carnaval derives from the Latin carne vale, meaning ‘goodbye meat,’ owing to the 40 days of abstinence (from meat and other worldly pleasures) that Lent entails. To compensate for the deprivation ahead, sins are racked up in advance with wild parties in honor of King Momo, the king of Carnaval.

Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro

If you haven’t heard by now, Rio throws an exceptional party, with music and dancing filling the streets for days on end. The culmination of the big fest is the brilliantly colorful parade through the Sambódromo, with giant mechanized floats, pounding drummers and whirling dancers – but there’s lots of action in Rio’s many neighborhoods for those seeking more than just the stadium experience.

Out-of-towners add to the mayhem, joining cariocas (residents of Rio) in the street parties and costumed balls erupting throughout town. There are free live concerts throughout the city (near the Arcos do Lapa, on Largo do Machado and on Praça Floriano, among other places), while those seeking a bit of decadence can head to the various balls about town. Whatever you do, prepare yourself for sleepless nights, an ample dose of caipirinhas (cane-liquor cocktails) and samba, and mingling with joyful crowds spilling out of the city.

To get more information on events during Carnaval, check Veja magazine’s Veja Rio insert (sold on Sunday at newsstands) or visit Riotur, the tourist organization in charge of Carnaval.

CARNAVAL DATES

The following are the Carnaval dates (Friday to Shrove Tuesday) in coming years:

2022 February 25 to March 1

2023 February 17 to 21

2024 February 9 to 13

2025 February 28 to March 4

Carnaval on the Streets

Joining the bandas and blocos (street parties) is one of the best ways to have the Carioca experience. These marching parades consist of a procession of brass bands (in the case of bandas) or drummers and vocalists (in the case of blocos) followed by anyone who wants to dance through the streets. Currently there are more than 400 street parties, filling every neighborhood in town with the sound of pounding drums and old-fashioned Carnaval songs – not to mention thousands of merrymakers. For many cariocas, this is the highlight of Carnaval. You can don a costume (or not), learn a few songs and join in; all you have to do is show up. For Zona Sul fests, don’t forget to bring your swimsuit for a dip in the ocean afterwards.

For complete listings, check the latest issues of Veja Rio when you arrive during Carnaval season.

AfroReggae (Av Atlântica, Copacabana; icon-hoursgif h9am Carnaval Sun) A massive and hugely popular bloco (street party) with a heavy rhythm section that celebrates along the beachfront Av Atlântica near Rainha Elizabeth in Copacabana.

Banda de Ipanema (www.facebook.com/bandadeipanema; Praça General Osório, Ipanema; icon-hoursgif h4pm 2nd Sat before Carnaval, Carnaval Sat & Carnaval Tue) This long-standing banda (procession) attracts a wild crowd, complete with drag queens and others in costume. Don’t miss it.

Banda Simpatia é Quase Amor (www.facebook.com/pg/bloco.simpataquaseamor; Praça General Osório, Ipanema; icon-hoursgif h4pm Sat before Carnaval & Carnaval Sun) A favorite Ipanema banda, with a 50-piece percussion band.

Barbas (www.facebook.com/blocodobarbasoficial; cnr Assis Bueno & Arnaldo Quintela, Botafogo; icon-hoursgif h3:30pm Carnaval Sat) One of the oldest bandas of the Zona Sul parades through the streets with a 60-piece percussion band.

Carmelitas (cnr Dias de Barros & Ladeira de Santa Teresa, Santa Teresa; icon-hoursgif h1pm Carnaval Fri & 8am Carnaval Tue) A crazy mixed crowd (some dressed as Carmelite nuns) parades through Santa Teresa’s streets.

Céu na Terra (www.facebook.com/ceunaterracarnaval; Curvelo, Santa Teresa; icon-hoursgif h8am Carnaval Sat) Follows the tracks where the bonde (streetcar line) once ran on a memorable celebration through Santa Teresa en route to Largo das Neves.

Cordão do Bola Preta (www.facebook.com/pg/cordaodabolapreta; Primeiro de Março, Centro; icon-hoursgif h9am Carnaval Sat) The oldest and biggest banda still in action. Costumes are always welcome, especially those with black-and-white spots. Held near Rua Rosário.

Dois Pra Lá, Dois Pra Cá (www.facebook.com/BlocoCarnavalescoDoisPraLaDoisPraCa; Carlinhos de Jesus Dance School, Rua da Passagem 145, Botafogo; icon-hoursgif h10am Carnaval Sat) This fairly long march begins at the Carlinhos de Jesus Dance School and ends at the Copacabana Palace.

Monobloco (www.facebook.com/monoblocooficial; Av Rio Branco, Centro; icon-hoursgif h7am 1st Sun after Carnaval) Rise and shine! This huge bloco attracts upwards of 500,000 revelers who, nursing hangovers (or perhaps still inebriated), gather near Av Vargas in Centro for a final farewell to Carnaval.

Que Merda É Essa? (Garcia d’Ávila, Ipanema; icon-hoursgif h1pm Carnaval Sun) This playful gathering (which means ‘What the shit is this?’) is a big draw in Ipanema. Beginning near Nascimento da Silva, it eventually makes its way along the beach.

Suvaco de Cristo (Rua Jardim Botânico, Jardim Botânico; icon-hoursgif h9am Sun before Carnaval) Very popular bloco (whose name means ‘Christ’s armpit,’ in reference to the open-armed Redeemer looming overhead). It also meets on Carnaval Saturday but doesn’t announce the time (to avoid overcrowding), so ask around. Held near the corner of Faro.

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Samba school parade, Rio de Janeiro | MIRALEX/GETTY IMAGES ©

Samba School Parades

The highlight of any Carnaval experience is attending (or participating in) a parade at the Sambódromo. There before a crowd of some 90,000 (with millions more watching on TV), each of the 12 samba schools has its 80 minutes to dance and sing through the open Oscar Niemeyer– designed stadium. The pageantry is not simply eye candy for the masses. Schools are competing for top honors in the parade, with winners announced (and a winner’s parade held) on the Saturday following Carnaval.

Here’s what to expect: each school enters the Sambódromo with amped energy levels, and dancers take things up a notch as they dance through the stadium. Announcers introduce the school, then the lone voice of the puxador (interpreter) starts the samba. Thousands more voices join him (each school has 3000 to 5000 members), and then the drummers kick in, 200 to 400 per school, driving the parade. Next come the main wings of the school, the big allegorical floats, the children’s wing, the celebrities and the bell-shaped baianas (women dressed as Bahian aunts) twirling in elegant hoopskirts.

Costumes are fabulously lavish, with 1.5m feathered headdresses; long, flowing capes that sparkle with sequins; and rhinestone-studded G-strings.

The whole procession is also an elaborate competition. A handpicked set of judges chooses the best school on the basis of many components, including percussion, the samba do enredo (theme song), harmony between percussion, song and dance, choreography, costumes, story line, floats and decorations. The dance championship is hotly contested, with the winner becoming not just the pride of Rio but all of Brazil.

The Sambódromo parades start with the mirins (young samba-school members) on the evening of Carnaval Friday, and continue on through Saturday night when the Group A samba schools strut their stuff. Sunday and Monday are the big nights, when the Grupo Especial – the 12 best samba schools in Rio – parade: six on Sunday night, and six more on Monday night. The following Saturday, the six top schools do it again in the Parade of Champions, which generally has more affordable tickets than on the big nights. Each event starts at 9pm and runs until 4am.

Most visitors stay for three or four schools, and come to see their favorite in action (every self-respecting Carioca has a school they support, just as they have a favorite football team). If you’re really gung-ho, wear your school’s colors and learn the theme song (the words are found on each of the school’s websites) so you can sing along when it marches through the Sambódromo.

Don’t take a bus to or from the Sambódromo. It’s safer to take a taxi or the metro (Praça Onze or Central stations), which runs around the clock during Carnaval until 11pm Tuesday. It’s also a great opportunity to check out the paraders commuting in costume.

Tickets

Getting tickets at legitimate prices can be tough. Liesa (http://liesa.globo.com), the official samba-school league, begins selling tickets in December or January, most of which get immediately snatched up by travel agencies then later resold at higher prices. Check with Riotur about where you can get them, as the official outlet can vary from year to year. At face value, tickets run from R$160 to R$500, though you’ll probably have to pay about twice that (or more) if you buy

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