Lonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini

By James Bainbridge

Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini is your passport to the most up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Lounge on a Cape Town beach, spot wildlife in Kruger National Park; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini Travel Guide:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of South Africa's best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 102 maps 

Covers Cape Town, Western Cape, Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Free State, Johannesburg & Gauteng, Mpumalanga, Kruger National Park, Limpopo, North West Province, Northern Cape, Lesotho, Eswatini

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini, our most comprehensive guide to South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s Cape Town & the Garden Route for a comprehensive look at all the region has to offer.

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Oct 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580385

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South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini

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Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini

South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Activities

Travel with Children

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Cape Town

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Western Cape

Stellenbosch

Franschhoek

Paarl

Hermanus

Gansbaai

Swellendam

Mossel Bay

Wilderness

Knysna

Plettenberg Bay & Around

Oudtshoorn

Eastern Cape

Storms River

Jeffrey’s Bay

Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth)

Addo Elephant National Park

Grahamstown

Port Alfred

Hogsback

Chintsa

Port St Johns

Graaff-Reinet

KwaZulu-Natal

Durban

Ulundi

Ithala Game Reserve

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park

iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Pietermaritzburg

Drakensberg & uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park

Ladysmith

Dundee

Free State

Bloemfontein

Parys & Vredefort Dome Area

Harrismith

Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Clarens

Fouriesburg

Ladybrand

Philippolis

Johannesburg & Gauteng

Johannesburg

Soweto

Pretoria

Around Pretoria

Mpumalanga

Dullstroom

Sabie

Pilgrim’s Rest

Graskop

Blyde River Canyon

Hazyview

Nelspruit (Mbombela)

Komatipoort

Barberton

Kruger National Park

Kruger National Park

Sabi Sand Game Reserve

Manyeleti Game Reserve

Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Limpopo

Polokwane

Mokopane

The Waterberg

Louis Trichardt

Mapungubwe National Park

Venda

Letaba Valley

Tzaneen

Phalaborwa

Hoedspruit

North West Province

Rustenburg

Sun City

Pilanesberg National Park

Madikwe Game Reserve

Magaliesberg Range

Northern Cape

Kimberley

Mokala National Park

Kuruman

Upington

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Augrabies Falls National Park

Springbok

Port Nolloth

Calvinia

Lesotho

Maseru

Morija

Teyateyaneng

Leribe

Ts’ehlanyane National Park

Mokhotlong

Sani Top

Katse Dam

Malealea

Quthing

eSwatini

Mbabane

Ezulwini Valley

Lobamba

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Manzini

Malolotja Nature Reserve

Hlane Royal National Park

Mbuluzi Game Reserve

Mkhaya Game Reserve

UNDERSTAND

History

Environment

Wildlife & Habitat

Music

Food & Drink

People & Culture

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Safe Travel

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Region

Air

Land

Sea

Tours

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Tours

Train

Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Covid-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini

I fell in love with South Africa the first time I laid eyes on it, and the love affair has only deepened in the years since. In the early years, I’d fly in and drive straight out in search of wildlife, drawn by incredible Kruger, Madikwe, Kgalagadi and more. But over time I came to appreciate the charms of world-class wine country, dramatic Drakensberg and the rugged coastline, to say nothing of the intimate appeal of Lesotho and eSwatini. And against these backdrops of extraordinary beauty, it’s the people who really make this a special destination.

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Valley of Desolation | DOMINIQUE DE LA CROIX / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Anthony Ham, Writer

anthony-ham-2016jpg

png @AnthonyHamWrite png @anthonyham2002

For more about Our Writers

South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini’s Top Experiences

1KRUGER’S INCREDIBLE WILDLIFE

Kruger is one of Africa’s great wilderness experiences and one of the best places to see animals in the world: a trip here sears itself in your mind. Its accessibility, quantity and variety of wildlife, and staggering size make Kruger unique. A vast network of trails means mean endless opportunities to enjoy the wild environment.

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African elephants | CHRIS KRUGER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kruger’s Heartland

Rivers and rhinos, savannahs and big cats: Kruger’s southern and central regions are extraordinary for both scenery and wildlife. These are the most accessible areas of the park, and excellent camps draws plenty of safari enthusiasts.

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Leopard | STU PORTER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Private Reserves

The world-famous private reserves immediately west of the park promise brilliant wildlife without the crowds. The reserves offer a more exclusive experience, especially in Sabi Sand, Kapama, Klaserie and Timbavati, and safari vehicles here can go off road and travel around at night.

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White rhinos | WITR / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Remote North

In Kruger’s lightly trammelled north, expect big herds of elephants and buffaloes, as well as tsessebes, elands, roans and sables. Leopards, lions and rhinos can also appear, and the birding is prolific. The elephant’s favourite tree, the mopane, is everywhere as are baobabs and beautiful wild figs.

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Lioness and cub | THOMAS RETTERATH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2URBAN EXPLORING

Few cities on earth have the cachet of Cape Town. But then again, there aren’t many cities that can boast a natural location as spectacular as this. Overlooked by flat-topped Table Mountain, with its cable car, walking trails and abseiling, Cape Town is, quite simply, one of the world’s most beautiful cities. But Cape Town is just the start, with other cities across the country getting serious about urban renewal.

Cool Cape Town

Visit beaches and wine estates, wander the waterfront, explore Robben Island and meet easy-going locals. Expect also world-class restaurants, hip food markets and design-savvy arcades in Woodstock and the Silo District.

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Table Mountain Cableway | CHIARA SALVADORI / GETTY IMAGES ©

Reborn Jo’burg

Despite its reputation, the City of Gold is a vibey and inspiring place thanks to the regeneration of its inner city. The dynamic cultural enclaves of Braamfontein, Newtown, 44 Stanley and Maboneng boast galleries, bars, restaurants, and boutiques.

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Neighbourgoods Market | DAVID BUZZARD / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Surprising Durban

One of South Africa’s most cosmopolitan cities, Durban knows how to have fun. The beachfront is one of the country’s most successful urban uplift projects, while its markets and large Indian population help to give the city an appealing character.

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Durban’s beachfront | TIMOTHY HODGKINSON / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3MOUNTAIN HIGHS

Majestic, stunning and mysterious, the mountains and foothills of the World Heritage–listed uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park are among the country’s most awe-inspiring landscapes. They may be southern Africa’s most beautiful mountains, but South Africa also has the extraordinary Blyde River Canyon and the utterly unforgettable Cederberg. They’re the perfect destinations for photographers, hikers and adventurous travellers, or even for those who just crave a beautiful view.

Blyde River Canyon

This canyon, the third largest in the world and possibly the greenest, is one of South Africa’s great sights. Even the coachloads of domestic and foreign visitors to the canyon, where the Blyde River snakes down from the Drakensberg Escarpment to the lowveld, cannot spoil the majesty of sights such as Bourke’s Luck Potholes.

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Blyde River Canyon | DAVID BURSTEIN / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Cederberg

By day the clear blue skies provide an arresting contrast to Cederberg’s craggy orange peaks; by night the Milky Way shines so brightly you can almost read by its light. Tackle its Wolfberg Arch, Maltese Cross, Wolfberg Cracks, or Wupperthal trails, visiting remote and forgotten mission villages along the way.

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Wolfberg Arch, Cederberg | MORGAN TRIMBLE / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Drakensberg

Drakensberg means ‘Dragon Mountains’ in Afrikaans, while the Zulu named the range Quathlamba (‘Battlement of Spears’); both convey the area’s sublime backdrop of incredible peaks. People have lived here for thousands of years, evidenced by the many San rock-art sites.

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Amphitheatre cliffs, Drakensburg | HERMAN DU PLESSIS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

4COASTAL RAMBLES

The South African coast wraps around the continent’s south like a protective shield, as if sheltering the region from the wild southern oceans that have carved this remarkable shore. Dramatic headlands, surf beaches, precious wetlands and so much more combine to provide the backdrop to so many of the country’s attractions. Some of South Africa’s more scenic driving and hiking routes also shadow the coast, as one superb view after another unfurls.

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Indian Ocean beach, iSimangaliso Wetland Park | BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Wild Coast

With its rugged cliffs plunging into the sea, remote sandy beaches, rural Xhosa villages and history of shipwrecks and stranded sailors, the aptly named Wild Coast is ideally explored on foot. From the Great Kei River to Port St Johns, pathways hug the shoreline. Watch for southern right whales and dolphins in the turquoise sea.

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Xhosa rondavels, Wild Coast | GIRLSEEINGWORLD / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

iSimangaliso

iSimangaliso Wetland Park, which means ‘miracle’ or ‘wonder’ in Zulu, has a fitting name. This Unesco World Heritage site stretches 220km from the Mozambique border to Maphelane, and the 3280-sq-km park offers beaches, offshore reefs, coastal forests, lakes, wetlands and woodlands.

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Aerial view, iSimangaliso Wetland Park | BENNY MARTY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Let’s Go Surfing

South Africa is a world-class surfing destination, with wild seas and more sheltered coves ensuring something for all abilities. Muizenberg (Cape Town), Jeffrey’s Bay and Durban are some of the best places to get started.

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Surfer, Jeffrey’s Bay | LMSPENCER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5WONDERFUL WINES

South Africa’s wines are growing in reputation, and make for some of the more memorable experiences in South Africa. Most of the winemaking areas are destinations in their own right, combining viniculture excellence with some of the country’s prettier regions. Wherever you are, tours help you get from cellar door to the next wine-tasting experience.

The Winelands

Whitewashed Cape Dutch architecture dots this photogenic landscape of rolling hills and serried vines. The Winelands is the quintessential Cape, where world-class wines are the icing on the viticultural cake. Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl, the area’s holy trinity of wine-tasting towns, host some of the southern hemisphere’s oldest, largest and prettiest wine estates.

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Aerial view, Stellenbosch vineyards | FINN STOCK / GSHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tulbagh

South Africa’s winemakers have mastered the art of sparkling wines. Pretty Tulbagh is where some of the best sparkling wines are made.

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Mountain vineyards, Tulbagh | HANNES VOS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hermanus

The in the Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven and Earth) valley close to Hermanus is one of South Africa’s least-known (but best) wine-producing areas, known for its boutique wineries.

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Vigneron, Hermanus | SUNSHINE SEEDS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6WILDERNESS & WILDLIFE

South Africa’s north is home to some of the region’s most storied wilderness areas, from the soul-stirring deserts of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and remote and rarely visited Mapungubwe National Park to exclusive Madikwe Game Reserve. Apart from the astonishing wildlife, you’ll get to explore landscapes of rare beauty and, best of all, you’ll feel a world away from the clamour of everyday life.

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Klipspringer antelope, Mapungubwe National Park | UTOPIA_88 / GETTY IMAGES ©

Kgalagadi

Kgalagadi covers almost 40,000 sq km of raw Kalahari landscape in the Northern Cape and Botswana, an area roamed by some 2000 predators; it’s especially good to see big cats.

Mapungubwe

This World Heritage-listed conservation area is dominated by a glorious landscape: arid, ancient terrain that’s twisted and knotted, with rocky bluffs offering majestic views, and intersected by mighty rivers.

Madikwe

One of the country’s most exclusive reserves on such a large scale, Madikwe occupies 760 sq km of bushveld, savannah grassland and riverine forest.

Top Experiences

7DRAW NEAR TO HISTORY

History looms large over every aspect of South African life, from the fossils that tell of the dawn of humankind to the apartheid-era struggles of Soweto or Robben Island. This is one place where history often comes up in conversation, but there are museums and historical sites where you can learn more about the country’s fascinating historical story.

Cradle of Humankind

It all began in Africa – the Cradle of Humankind is home to hominids who sit with the fossils of their ancestors deep underground.

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Highveld sunrise, Cradle of Humankind | ANDY NIXON / GETTY IMAGES ©

Soulful Soweto

History shadows everything in Soweto, where the country’s apartheid and post-apartheid stories come together. Visit the Hector Pieterson Museum and the Mandela House Museum.

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Mandela House Museum |JANICE PAMA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Robben Island

This World Heritage site sits 12km out to sea and is preserved as a memorial to those (including Nelson Mandela) who spent many years incarcerated here. Visiting is a poignant experience.

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Prison watchtower, Robben Island | ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

8QUIET TOWNS & REGIONS

One of the joys of exploring South Africa is the chance discovery of a charming little town or beguiling region that only locals really know about. Some of these, such as the Venda Region, Clarens, and Namakwa combine all that’s good about the country, including vivid cultural landscapes, stirring wild vistas, and towns where relaxing is almost impossible not to do.

Venda Region

A lush region steeped in mystique and traditional customs, this is the Africa of mist-clad hills, dusty red tracks and mud huts. Its lakes and forests carry enormous spiritual significance.

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Venda mud huts | HEIN VON HORSTEN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Clarens

With galleries, antiques, classy restaurants, a microbrewery and adventure activities in the surrounding countryside, laid-back Clarens is perhaps the best place in the Free State’s Eastern Highlands to simply wind down.

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Shopping area, Clarens | GROBLER DU PREEZ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Namakwa

Namakwa is one of South Africa’s forgotten corners, its big Atlantic views stretching up the west coast towards Namibia. In spring there’s the added bonus of the wildflower bloom, which turns Namakwa’s rocky expanses into a technicolour carpet.

Top Experiences

9WILDLIFE IN THE HEARTLAND

South Africa’s portfolio of parks and reserves runs deep, and the best-known parks like Kruger and Kgalagadi are just a beginning. Hluhluwe-iMfolozi in northern KwaZulu-Natal, Pilanesberg, and Addo in particular are world-class places to see charismatic wildlife and enjoy the stunning landscapes that nurture them. Each is very much tied to the local cultural landscape, and they’re fine focal points for digging deeper into the heart of the country.

Pilanesberg National Park

At this underrated park, the Big Five and day-tripping Jo’burgers roam an extinct volcanic crater. You can escape the other cars and score an up-close sighting along the gravel roads through the bush or stake out a dam.

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Giraffe, Pilanesberg National Park | BAYAZED / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park

Stunningly beautiful Hluhluwe-iMfolozi teems with wildlife and features landscapes from open savannah to mountains draped with wildflowers.

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Vervet, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park | ANDY NIXON / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Addo Elephant National Park

A real conservation success story, more than 600 elephants roam through Addo’s low bushes, tall grass and distant hills.

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African elephants, Addo Elephant National Park | WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

10 CREATURES OF THE SEA

South Africa’s fantastic collection of birdlife and land mammals may get all the safari attention, but the marine wildlife arrayed around the country’s shores is equally special. Swim with great whites, commune with whales (possibly even blue whales), and then downsize to cute-as-a-button African penguins. Worth combining with land-based safari or memorable for its own sake, these are some of the continent’s more unusual wildlife experiences.

Great Whites

There are many reasons to travel the Garden Route – glorious panoramas, surfing Victoria Bay or hiking Knysna’s forests. But nothing beats getting up close with great white sharks in a cage in Mossel Bay’s waters.

Watching Whales

South Africa is one of the world’s best spots to see whales, both from land and fromout on the sea. The best land-based sites lie along the southern and eastern coastlines, with Hermanus the unofficial whale-watching capital.

African Penguins

Just when you thought that Cape Town couldn’t have any more to offer, there are the African penguins (or ‘jackass penguin’) of Table Mountain National Park. Boulders is the pick of the places to see these cutest of little critters.

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African penguins, Boulders Penguin Colony | STEF VAN VUUREN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

11 CHARMING LESOTHO

Lesotho may fly under the radar when it comes to name recognition, but it’s a terrific destination that deserves as much time as you can give it. Stunning mountainous terrain is Lesotho’s default topography, and the high country provides a backdrop for immense cultural riches as expressed in crafts, rich musical traditions, and a story that stretches back to the dawn of humankind and beyond to the dinosaurs.

Sani Top

From the west it’s an endurance drive through Lesotho’s awesome Central Highlands. From KwaZulu-Natal, it’s a vertiginous drive up the Sani Pass (2874m).

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Sani Mountain Lodge, Sani Top | GROBLER DU PREEZ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Natural Lesotho

Horse-ride or hike through indigenous forest in Ts’ehlanyane National Park, or brave the world’s highest commercial abseil.

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Basuto pony in front of Maletsunyane Falls, Semonkong | FABIAN PLOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ancient History

See ancient San rock art at sites across the Drakenburg region. Even older are the dinosaur footprints of Leribe (Hlotse) in Lesotho.

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San rock painting, Drakensburg | ECOPRINT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

12 EXPLORING ESWATINI

Much like Lesotho, eSwatini (formerly Swaziland) has attractions far out of proportion to its size. Wildlife highlights are many – so many, in fact, that you have to remind yourself that this is one of the smallest countries in Africa. Activities like white-water rafting and hiking are both outstanding here. And there are awe-inducing views from so many places, including close to the capital.

Rhinos & Lions

eSwatini has two world-class reserves: Hlane Royal National Park is known for its lions and white rhinos, while Mkhaya Game Reserve in one of southern Africa’s best places to see black rhinos.

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White rhino, Hlane Royal National Park | PETER JOHN WATSON / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Shoot the Rapids

If white-water rafting is your thing, you won’t want to miss the Great Usutu River (Lusutfu River) with its creeks, gorges and open water. It’s a wonderful way to spend a day.

Capital Views

Northeast of Mbabane, Sibebe Rock is the world’s second-largest monolith and it offers sweeping views from the summit: you’ll feel like you can see most of eSwatini from here. Just don’t look down...

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Sibebe Rock | SOPOTNICKI / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currencies

South African rand (R), Lesotho loti (plural maloti, M), Swazi lilangeni (plural emalangeni, E)

Languages

Zulu, Xhosa, Afrikaans, English, Northern Sotho, Tswana, Southern Sotho (Lesotho), Tsonga, Swati (eSwatini), Venda, Ndebele

Visas

Not required for most Western nationals to visit South Africa for up to 90 days, Lesotho for 14 and eSwatini for 30.

Money

ATMs widespread and cards widely accepted in South Africa. ATMs common in Lesotho and eSwatini, but cards rarely accepted outside the capitals.

Mobile Phones

Most foreign phones can be used on roaming. Local SIM cards can be used in most unlocked foreign phones.

Time

South Africa Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus two hours)

When to Go

03-climate-sls12

High Season (Nov–Mar)

A Peak times are around Christmas and Easter.

A Coastal and national-park accommodation books up months ahead.

A In popular spots, accommodation prices can rise by 50%.

Shoulder (Apr–May & Sep–Oct)

A Sunny autumn (Apr–May) and spring (Sep–Oct) weather.

A Optimum wildlife-watching conditions from autumn through winter.

A Whale watching best around spring.

Low Season (Jun–Aug)

A Winter brings snow to the mountains.

A Rainy season in Cape Town and the Western Cape.

A A good time to visit arid areas such as the Karoo.

Useful Websites

Brand South Africa (www.brandsouthafrica.com) News and information.

South African National Parks (www.sanparks.org) Information, bookings and forums.

Visit Lesotho (www.visitlesotho.travel) Tourist information.

eSwatini Tourism (www.thekingdomofeswatini.com/) News, info, listings and blog.

BBC (www.bbc.com/africa) News and features.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/south-africa) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than R1000

A Hostel dorm bed: from R160

A Budget main dish (cheaper areas): less than R75

A Two-week hop-on, hop-off Baz Bus pass: R4100

A Free entry to some museums

Midrange: R1000–2500

A Double room: R700–4000

A Midrange main dish: R75–200

A Jo’burg–Cape Town tourist-class train: R690

A Single-room supplements common, usually 30–40%

Top End: More than R2500

A Double room (more expensive areas): over R4000

A Top-end main dish (more expensive areas): over R200

A Pretoria–Cape Town Blue Train: R20,280

A Cape Town–Jo’burg flight: from R1000

A Wildlife drive: from R350

Opening Hours

Banks 9am–3.30pm Monday to Friday, 9am–11am Saturday

Bars noon–midnight

Businesses & shopping 8.30am–5pm Monday to Friday, 8.30am–1pm Saturday; some supermarkets open weekday evenings, and all day Saturday and Sunday; major shopping centres until 9pm daily

Cafes 8am–5pm

Government offices 8am–3pm Monday to Friday

Post offices 8.30am–4pm Monday to Friday, 8.30am–11am Saturday

Restaurants 11.30am–3pm & 6.30pm–10pm (last orders); many open 3pm–6.30pm

Arriving in South Africa

OR Tambo International Airport (Johannesburg) The Gautrain serves central Jo’burg (R162, 28 minutes) and Pretoria (R174, 34 minutes) every 12 to 30 minutes. Shuttles and taxis take about one hour to Jo’burg (about R500) and Pretoria. There are car-hire companies at the airport.

Cape Town International Airport Shuttle (from R220), taxi (around R250) and MyCiTi bus (R100, every 30 minutes) to central Cape Town take about 30 minutes. There are car-hire companies at the airport.

Getting Around

Car A great option, with affordable rental rates, a good road network and the car-based local lifestyle; the drawback is dangerous drivers.

Baz Bus The backpacker shuttle is a convenient and social option between Cape Town, Durban and Jo’burg/Pretoria. Mzansi Experience offers a similar service.

Train Tourist class is an underused secret (with sleeper coaches and dining car), linking Jo’burg to Cape Town, Durban and the coast.

Air An affordable way to cover long distances.

Bus Lines including Greyhound, Intercape and Translux cover South Africa in comfortable vehicles at reasonable rates.

Shared taxi OK for short journeys but less practical over long distances, as there are safety and security issues.

For much more on Getting Around

First Time South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Make sure your passport is valid for at least 30 days (six months for eSwatini) after your visit.

A Organise vaccinations, and malaria prophylatics if visiting northeast South Africa and eSwatini.

A For popular areas, book accommodation well in advance.

A Inform your credit-card company you’re visiting the region.

A Arrange travel insurance.

What to Pack

A Yellow-fever certificate if you’ve recently visited a yellow-fever zone.

A Extra documents for children to clear South African immigration.

A Visa, if required.

A Practical shoes, for safaris and hiking.

A Warm evening wear, even in summer.

A Credit and/or debit card and backup.

A Sunscreen.

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Don’t try to cover the whole region; focus instead on one or two areas, such as Cape Town and Kruger.

A This is a car-driving culture, given the security issues associated with walking and taking shared taxis, so consider renting a vehicle for part of your trip.

A South Africa has a network of domestic flights, plus public-transport options including tourist-class trains and backpacker buses.

A Don’t be paranoid about crime: do as the locals do, take precautions and remain watchful and attuned to your surroundings, and you should have a fantastic time.

A Most travellers will be at most risk on the dangerous roads: drive cautiously and don’t cover too much ground.

A Avoid the peak Christmas and Easter seasons, when accommodation fills up, prices are highest and roads are the most dangerous.

What to Wear

Take a practical wardrobe of shorts and T-shirts, athletic shoes or hiking boots for going on safari, plus warmer layers for the evenings; it can be cold in the bush, and you’ll want to hide your arms and legs from mosquitoes. The same mix of clothing will be useful in mountainous Lesotho, along with jeans or other pants you’ll be comfortable in while riding a horse. Women may want to avoid wearing shorts in Lesotho, as its culture is fairly conservative. You don’t need to worry about fashion in these casual countries, but do pack your favourite outfits for Jo’burg and Cape Town’s smart restaurants and nightspots.

Sleeping

You can often book a few days in advance, or not at all, but if you’re travelling at Christmas or Easter, plan several months ahead. Always book national-park accommodation in advance.

Lodges Can be uber-luxe or fairly rustic, and boast some of the best locations.

Guesthouses Often owner-run, offering comfortable rooms, hearty breakfasts and local info.

Self-catering cottages Usually spacious and excellent value.

Backpacker hostels Often have a bar, swimming pool and campsites; ideal for budget or solo travellers.

Hotels Everything from boutique hotels to vast and luxurious chains.

Money

ATMs are common throughout the region, and cards are widely accepted across South Africa and in the capitals of Lesotho and eSwatini. Inform your bank of your travel plans to avoid declined credit-card transactions. For more information.

Bargaining

Haggling is common in African craft markets; in most other instances you’re expected to pay the stated price.

Tipping

Wages are low here, and tipping is expected.

Restaurants & cafes Tip 10% to 15% of the total in restaurants; 10% in cafes.

Hotels A standard tip of R10 to R20 is welcomed.

Car guards Offer R2, or R5 for longer periods.

Petrol stations Anything from R5 – more if the attendant washes the windscreen and checks the tyres etc.

Taxis Tips not expected but rounding up the fare will be appreciated.

Language

South Africa has 11 official languages and some of these, such as Afrikaans, Xhosa and Zulu, predominate in parts of the country. However, you will get around easily with English in all three countries – it’s the unofficial language of business, especially in the tourist industry, and the sole language of many locals.

Etiquette

Informality South Africa is largely informal; behaviour and expectations familiar from Western countries prevail in tourist venues.

Cultural diversity In this multicultural region, etiquette varies wildly between ethnic and demographic groups, so check with your guide or a local if unsure.

Religion Christianity is taken more seriously and followed more widely than in secular Western countries; jokes about religion may offend.

Grace Saying grace before meals, while possibly holding hands, is common in Afrikaner households.

Greetings Shake hands with men and women when meeting for the first time. Women greet friends and acquaintances with a light hug. In Lesotho and eSwatini, the handshake is a three-part process, best observed before you give it a try.

Hello Be sure to say hello to everyone in Lesotho; if you don’t, be prepared for people to be offended.

Conversation It’s possible to discuss most subjects, including race, as long as you maintain a positive and tactful tone.

Drink driving This is widespread and locals have a relaxed attitude to it, but definitely don’t do it yourself.

Time In rural areas, being punctual is not a thing; people may arrive an hour or two late.

Photos Ask before taking photos of people, particularly if they are in traditional dress or at a cultural event.

Eating

South Africa’s culinary diversity reflects its multicultural society, ranging from African staples in the townships to seafood and steaks in globally acclaimed restaurants, and eating is an excellent way to the heart of the Rainbow Nation. The dining scene is more limited in Lesotho and eSwatini, but you’ll find good restaurants and cafes in their capital cities and rural lodges.

What’s New

Like so much of the world, South Africa, Lesotho and eSwatini are coming back out into the light after the nightmare of the pandemic. As they do so, the region’s people have a new spring in their step, ready to welcome back visitors from around the world and get back to exploring their own country.

Museums

Cape Town’s Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, the world’s largest showcase of contemporary African art, occupies a boldly repurposed 1920s grain silo at the V&A Waterfront. Mthatha’s Nelson Mandela Museum is dedicated to the great man’s life.

Township Tourism

New attractions range from the Emjindini tour under development in Barberton, which will be Mpumalanga’s first township tour, to Cape Town’s 18 Gangster Museum, Isivivana Centre, restaurants and cafes.

Mzsansi Experience

Plying the east coast between Cape Town and Jo’burg, this hop-on, hop-off backpacker bus offers an alternative to the long-running Baz Bus.

Philippolis

This up-and-coming Free State town has attractions including Tiger Canyons, where wild tigers breed and thrive.

South African Hall of Fame

Pay homage to South Africa’s great and good in this impressive exhibition space at Sun City. Sportspeople dominate, but musicians and other luminaries from the arts also receive their due.

Hiking & Driving Routes

The Crayfish (slackpacking) Trail explores an oft-ignored stretch of the West Coast, between the Western Cape fishing villages of Elands Bay and Doring Bay. The Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail travels 3.5 billion years into the past on Rte 40 to the Swazi border.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO & ESWATINI

Anthony Ham, Lonely Planet Writer

South Africa may be battered and bruised, but the country is daring to hope that the dark days of the pandemic may finally be behind it. People are emerging – from lockdowns, from the country’s self-imposed isolation, and from a period in which the world suddenly became so much smaller for so many South Africans – and there is a new appreciation, even excitement, among locals about what their country has to offer. Yes, the same national problems remain – stubbornly high crime rates, concerns about the political elite’s disconnection from the plight of ordinary South Africans, and ongoing economic stagnation. But anything’s got to be better than 2020 and 2021, and everyone’s hoping better days lie just around the corner.

Mackeurtan Avenue

This strip in Durban North is generating a lot of buzz as a bar and restaurant hub, with some calling it the new Florida Road.

Urban Regenerations

George has seen a culinary awakening, with some excellent restaurants and a decent coffee scene. Likewise, Polokwane is slowly transforming from a stolid bastion of Afrikaans tradition, with great coffee, craft beer and a rising tide of good places to eat and stay.

Cultural Centres

There’s a cultural centre atop Graskop Gorge Lift, the glass lift descending into the Mpumalanga town’s dramatic ravine, and Workshop Ko Kasi adds appeal to Kuruman, offering a craft shop, a traditional African spa and more in a building constructed from recycled materials. Numerous community tourism projects are afoot in Prince Albert, joining the art deco theatre.

KwaZulu-Natal South Coast

Popular with surfers and divers, the stretch of coast south of Durban is promoting its many boutique hotels, unique natural sights and good restaurants to international travellers.

Taxis

Uber has taken off in Cape Town, Jo’burg, Pretoria, Durban and Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth), and there’s a useful online database of minibus shared-taxi routes, fares and other information.

Swaziland’s New(ish) Name

The country’s king announced in 2018 that Swaziland would become known as the Kingdom of eSwatini.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/south-africa.

Brand South Africa (www.brandsouthafrica.com) News and information.

South African National Parks (www.sanparks.org) Information, bookings and forums.

SafariBookings (www.safaribookings.com/blog) The best site for planning and booking your safari.

Fair Trade Tourism (www.fairtrade.travel) Accommodation, tours and travel map.

Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom (2013) Condensed but enjoyable biopic, covering Madiba’s journey to presidency.

FAST FACTS

Food Trend Eating out again!

National Parks South Africa has 19 national parks, covering 3% of the country

No. of rhinos/elephants 23,000/24,000

Population 59.31 million

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For more recommendations and reviews, see www.lonelyplanet.com/south-africa-lesotho-eswatini-swaziland.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Wildlife watching, July

Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concerts, November

Whale watching, September

Oyster Festival, July

Jo’burg festivals, September

January

South Africans descend on tourist areas, including the coast and major parks, during summer school holidays (early December to mid-January). Book accommodation and transport well in advance. High season for accommodation is November to March.

z Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (Kaapse Klopse)

The Mother City’s colourful new-year celebration begins with a carnival on 2 January and continues for a month. With satin- and sequin-clad minstrel troupes, ribald song-and-dance routines, floats and general revelry, it’s the Cape’s Mardi Gras.

February

Summer continues, with smiles on the beaches, half-price cable cars up Table Mountain for sunset, and dramatic lightning storms in Jo’burg. Elephants munch marula trees, and baby antelope, zebras and giraffes cavort in the parks.

March

Summer rolls towards autumn, although days remain sunny, the lowveld steamy and the landscapes green. Good for walking and beach bumming in the Western Cape. Cultural and music festivals happen in Cape Town and Jo’burg.

2 Cape Town Cycle Tour

This 109km spin around the Cape Peninsula is the world’s largest timed cycling event. More than 30,000 contestants, from serious racers to costumed Capetonians, tackle Table Mountain and Chapman’s Peak Dr. There’s a mountain-biking challenge in the Winelands around the same time.

April

There’s a two-week school holiday around Easter, generally regarded as the beginning of autumn. Temperatures drop, and wildlife watching in the bushveld starts to look more attractive than beach bumming. Rutting season runs until May.

z AfrikaBurn

Africa’s entry in the global calendar of festivals inspired by the USA’s Burning Man is a subcultural blowout and a survivalist challenge. Art installations and themed camps turn a corner of the Tankwa Karoo into a surreal paradise.

July

Winter brings rain to the Cape and clouds to Table Mountain. Northern areas experience fresh, sunny days and clear night skies. Low season is June to September, apart from the mid-June to mid-July school holidays.

1 Wildlife Watching

Cooler, drier winter weather is perfect for wildlife watching. Thirsty animals congregate at waterholes and foliage is sparser, making spotting easier. The lower temperatures make toasty northern areas such as the bushveld and Kalahari more enjoyable.

2 Lesotho Ski Season

That’s right, skiing in Southern Africa. Lesotho’s peaks and passes receive snow in winter – particularly around Oxbow, where the season runs from June to August at the modern and well-equipped Afriski resort.

5 Oyster Festival

Knysna’s 10-day oyster orgy is one of a few seafood-oriented events on the South African coastline. Fixtures include oyster-eating and -shucking competitions, wine tastings, a mountain-bike race and the Knysna Marathon.

3 National Arts Festival

Feel Africa’s creative pulse at the continent’s largest arts festival, held over 10 days in early July in studenty Grahamstown. Performers from every conceivable discipline descend on the refined spot, and Fingo Village township holds an associated festival.

2 Open JBay

The winter months bring big waves to the Eastern Cape, and Jeffrey’s Bay holds its international Open JBay surf competition. Part of the 10-day Winter Fest in mid-July, the contest on the town’s famous Supertubes break attracts thousands of spectators; accommodation fills and prices rise.

September

Winter starts giving way to spring. Cherry trees bloom in the Free State Eastern Highlands in September and October, which are also the last dry months for wildlife viewing. School holidays run from late September to early October.

1 Namakwa Wildflowers

In late August and early September, nature plays a springtime trick and covers this barren area with wildflowers. Namakwa’s parched terrain sprouts meadows of flowers in rainbow hues. The spectacle also happens elsewhere in the Northern and Western Capes.

1 Whale Watching

Watch southern right whales calve in Walker Bay throughout the second half of the year; the best time to spot them is the period around Hermanus Whale Festival in September/October. During this time, Hermanus is the world’s best land-based whale-watching destination.

z Jo’burg Festivals

Jozi’s two-month festival season starts with Arts Alive, the Soweto Festival Expo, featuring music, poetry, food stalls and a lifestyle expo, and Joy of Jazz. There’s more in October, including the monthly First Thursday and First Sunday in the Valley Jozi!

October

A great month to visit, offering mostly sunny weather without the worst of the summer crowds and prices. There is a 10-day South African school holiday at the beginning of the month.

z South African National Gold Panning Championships

This contest involves hopeful panners from local schoolchildren to semiprofessionals and takes place in a line of watery troughs by the Blyde River.

z Soweto Festivals

Following Jo’burg’s September festival fun, the city’s largest township hosts the Soweto Beer Festival, featuring some 40 different types of beers, including local and traditional African brews, and Soweto Fashion Week.

November

Spring drifts into summer: wildflowers in the Drakensberg, beach potential before the worst humidity hits KwaZulu-Natal, and all of the above in Cape Town and the Western Cape. Rain in the lowveld. High season begins.

3 Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concerts

Summer music festivals take place in stunning settings nationwide. In the Western Cape alone, the choice includes the Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concerts in Cape Town’s botanical gardens (November to April), the West Coast’s indie Endless Daze (www.endlessdazefest.com) and numerous trance parties.

Itineraries

Kruger to Cape

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2 WEEKS

This trip combines wildlife watching with the Cape’s scenery and culture.

Head directly east from Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport to Kruger National Park, where more than 20,000 growly members of the Big Five (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino) roam the bushveld. Staying in a bush camp or luxurious private reserve and going on self-drive safaris, guided drives and walks will keep you and your binoculars busy. From Kruger, head back to the bright lights of Jo’burg. Spend a night in the inner-city Maboneng precinct’s art hotel or hostels, experiencing Afro-globalisation and meeting local hipsters in the galleries and bars.

Next, pick up a flight to Cape Town; alternatively, take a scenic overnight train ride in tourist class on Shosholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo service (or the Blue Train or Rovos Rail from Pretoria). Relax and enjoy one of the world’s most beautiful cities, spending your days exploring the likes of Table Mountain and Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, and your nights dining in world-class restaurants and drinking in the ‘Tavern of the Seven Seas’. The Mother City is surrounded by beaches and vineyards; have lunch in winemaking Stellenbosch and wander the refined Cape Dutch student town’s lanes.

Itineraries

Cape Cruise

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2½ WEEKS

Beautiful scenery, excellent infrastructure and numerous attractions make this the South Africa of the glossy brochures. The route can be covered on public transport, but is perfect for a road trip in your own car.

After a few days in Cape Town, fitting in historical and cultural sights such as the Bo-Kaap neighbourhood, Zeitz MOCAA Museum and Irma Stern Museum alongside the scenic Cape Peninsula, head out to the Winelands. Spend a night or two wine tasting in the vineyard-clad valleys of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. From Stellenbosch take Rte 44 for one of the world’s most beautiful coastal drives, to Hermanus, where you can watch southern right whales (June to December). Overnight or stop for lunch in the 19th-century village of Stanford, before making your way to Cape Agulhas, Africa’s southernmost point.

Next, head along the Cogmanskloof Pass in the Langeberg range to countrified Montagu. With its whitewashed cottages and rustic accommodation, the quaint town is a great base for rock climbing and the Robertson Wine Valley. Continue along Rte 62 through the Little Karoo, between rolling mountains dotted with farms and charming little towns such as port-making Calitzdorp.

Cross the Swartberg range on the Meiringspoort Pass, from Oudtshoorn to the Great Karoo and Prince Albert. This pretty 18th-century village is green and fertile, with irrigation channels in the streets. The nearby N1 highway leads back to Cape Town; alternatively, backtrack south, possibly via the untarred Swartberg Pass, to Wilderness’ beaches and lagoons. East along the Garden Route, old-growth forests rise into the mountains above Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, both offering water sports and activities.

Finally, descend a windy road to the beach village of Nature’s Valley, where happy hikers finishing the five-day Otter Trail hang their boots in a tree outside the pub. Shorter hikes also lead into the surrounding Garden Route National Park (Tsitsikamma Section).

Itineraries

Safari Special

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2 WEEKS

South Africa is one of the continent’s best safari destinations – in a fortnight it’s possible to cover several parks and reserves, plus a few extra stops such as the dramatic Blyde River Canyon.

From Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport, head east to the country’s safari showpiece, Kruger National Park. The wildlife here and in the adjoining private wildlife reserves will hold you captivated. Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, near Kruger’s southern and central sections, offers views of the river as it snakes from the Drakensberg Escarpment to the lowveld. Stay overnight in nearby Graskop, a good base for outdoor activities and a visit to Pilgrim’s Rest, a 19th-century gold-rush village.

If time is tight, hit the N4 west for wildlife watching on sealed roads in Pilanesberg National Park, within four hours’ drive of OR Tambo International Airport. Stay in the Big Five park or the adjoining Sun City casino complex. A little further, Madikwe Game Reserve is an exclusive destination with accommodation in five-star lodges (and one ecolodge).

If you have a full two weeks, head south from the Kruger area to eSwatini’s Malolotja Nature Reserve, where hiking trails cross grasslands and forests, and along the Ezulwini and Malkerns valleys – stop to admire the woodlands and pick up local craftwork. eSwatini’s highlight is the wildlife-rich Mkhaya Game Reserve, known for its unsurpassed black and white rhino populations. Explore the bushveld thickets and open veld on a guided walking safari.

Leaving eSwatini, hit the N2 to uMkhuze Game Reserve, where animals lap at waterholes in pans surrounded by fever trees. Nearby are the waterways and diverse ecosystems of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, where hiking the wilderness trails is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. From there, continue south along the Indian Ocean to Durban’s well-connected airport and beaches, restaurants and bars.

Itineraries

Grand Circuit

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4 WEEKS

This epic itinerary covers the bottom half of South Africa, including Wild Coast beaches, the Karoo semidesert and mountainous Lesotho.

From Cape Town head along Rte 62 and over the Swartberg Pass to Prince Albert. Venture further into the Great Karoo’s open spaces to reach the refined oasis of Graaff-Reinet, nicknamed the ‘jewel of the Karoo’ for its 220-plus national monuments and history stretching back to 1786. Also in this corner of the Karoo are Camdeboo National Park, with Cape buffaloes and the Valley of Desolation’s views over the plains, and arty Nieu Bethesda, home of the sculpture-adorned Owl House. Stop at Mountain Zebra National Park for cheetah tracking and more Karoo panoramas, or continue straight to Addo Elephant National Park, where great white sharks and southern right whales complete the ‘Big Seven’.

Moving east, the Amathole Mountains are worth an inland detour for the eco-backpackers in Elundini and Hogsback. Staying in a rondavel hut by a Wild Coast beach is likely to be a trip highlight when mixed with cultural experiences and community-run activities. Heading north to the jagged green sweep of the iconic Drakensberg, take South Africa’s highest pass, the Sani Pass (2876m), to Lesotho, where Africa’s highest pub awaits.

Hiking and pony trekking in altitudinous Lesotho, you will meet Basotho people clad in conical hats and patterned woollen blankets. Spend at least a few days crossing the mountain kingdom, stopping at beautiful lodges in the likes of Ts’ehlanyane National Park and Malealea. Pass your last Lesothan night among sandstone cliffs in Roma, a 19th-century mission station and now the country’s seat of learning.

Over the international border, zip through the Free State’s shimmering golden fields to the Northern Cape and its capital, Kimberley. The city that witnessed the world’s greatest diamond rush is a great place to get a feel for South African history. From here, Shosholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo Express will whisk you back to Cape Town (or up to Jo’burg).

Itineraries

Eastern Wander

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3 WEEKS

This eastern jaunt mixes awesome mountain scenery with Xhosa and Zulu culture, and rural calm with urban vibes, giving a good look at the classic South Africa.

After touching down at OR Tambo International Airport, linger a few days in dynamic Jo’burg, seeing how urban regeneration is transforming the inner city and creating hip enclaves of restaurants and bars. Go on a city walking tour or head out to South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto.

Moving on from Jozi, cross the Free State and leave the N3 at Harrismith, to take scenic Rte 712 past Sterkfontein Dam to Clarens. The arty town, with its galleries and microbrewery, has surroundings worthy of an impressionist landscape. Next, stay in a chalet in the nearby Golden Gate Highlands National Park, with its hiking trails between sandstone outcrops in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains bordering Lesotho.

Just outside the park, the day-long Sentinel Hiking Trail climbs the iconic Amphitheatre to the top of the Drakensberg Escarpment. Next, spend a couple of days enjoying the spectacular Drakensberg day walks, such as Tugela Gorge, in Royal Natal National Park. Declimatise from the Draks on the twee Midlands Meander, with its guesthouses and ceramic studios, before hitting Durban, a city of beaches and Indian cuisine that is slowly being revitalised.

Near the Eastern Cape border, Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve is an oft-overlooked reserve with cliffs and forests above the Umzilkulwana River. From here, detour off the N2 and along the coast through Pondoland to Port St Johns – a laid-back introduction to the Wild Coast’s pristine beaches and friendly Xhosa locals. Pastel rondavel huts dot the green hills overlooking the region’s gravel roads, which lead to some stunning community-run hostels around Coffee Bay.

At the southern end of the Wild Coast, spend a final night by the Indian Ocean in Chintsa, and pick up a plane, train or bus from nearby East London to Jo’burg or Cape Town.

Itineraries

The Wild Northwest

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2½ WEEKS

Some of South Africa’s gnarliest terrain is found in the vast Northern Cape province, which this itinerary tours in conjunction with the Western Cape’s wilder corners.

From Cape Town, head north to the mountainous Cederberg Wilderness Area, with its sandstone formations, lodges and campgrounds. Continue to the Hantam Karoo outpost of Calvinia, before hitting the N7 through the Namakwa region, its rocky expanses carpeted with wildflowers in spring. Almost at the end of the region’s straight roads is remote Port Nolloth. If you have a 4WD, continue to the surreal mountain desert of |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.

Head east to Augrabies Falls National Park for hiking, rafting and canoeing, followed by a sunset cruise in Upington. Continue north through the Kalahari to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, an excellent place to spot big cats, and see more of the thirsty semidesert at Witsand Nature Reserve. Return to Cape Town via the Great Karoo, with stops including Karoo National Park and historic Matjiesfontein.

Itineraries

Alternative Cape

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1 WEEK

With its mountains, culture and wine, the Western Cape is a justly popular holiday destination. This itinerary suggests a few spots to escape the crowds alongside some old favourites.

From Cape Town, head north to the West Coast National Park, which offers a glimpse of the spring wildflower bloom alongside Langebaan Lagoon. Overnight here or in Paternoster, with its whitewashed cottages and glorious beaches.

Turning inland, mountain ranges surround the wineries of Tulbagh. Further into the Winelands, Franschhoek distils the area’s refined charm, with its Huguenot heritage, vineyards and restaurants. Cross the Franschhoek Pass to the village of Greyton, for thatched cottages, restaurants, mountain views and Genadendal Mission Station. The Boesmanskloof Trail leads hikers to the New Age village of McGregor.

Return to Cape Town via Hermanus, the world’s best land-based whale-watching destination (June to December), and along Rte 44, passing Cape Hangklip and Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve.

Plan Your Trip

Activities

Thanks to the region’s diverse terrain and pleasant climate, it’s possible to experience almost any outdoor activity here, from abseiling to zip lining. Good facilities and instruction mean that most activities are accessible to all visitors, whatever their experience level.

Best Activities & Adventures

Whether you want to cross vast wildernesses, search for predators in the bushveld or just lounge on the beach, South Africa has it covered.

Garden Route

The holiday strip offers surfing, canoeing, diving, kloofing (canyoning), horse riding, hiking and more.

Bloukrans Bridge Bungee

The world’s third-highest bungee jump is one of many thrills in the Tsitsikamma forests.

Multiday hikes

Carry your equipment or take the easy ‘slackpacking’ option and have your bags transported.

Kalahari

The semidesert makes use of the Orange River for rafting, canoeing and wine tasting.

Canopy tours

Stroll Kirstenbosch’s ‘Boomslang’ walkway, and zip line in the Drakensberg, the Mpumalanga lowveld and beyond.

Lion’s Head paragliding

Take a tandem flight from Cape Town’s sphinx-like mountain down to the beach.

Abseiling

Shimmy 112m down Table Mountain.

Birdwatching

With its enormous diversity of habitats, South Africa is a paradise for birdwatchers. There are birdwatching clubs nationwide, and most parks and reserves can provide birding lists, with information available from SANParks. Many parks, reserves and accommodation places also have field guides, but it’s still worth bringing your own.

Birding Africa (www.birdingafrica.com) Day trips from Cape Town and tours further afield, covering birds and flowers.

BirdLife South Africa (www.birdlife.org.za) Useful information and links. Promotes avitourism (birding ecotourism) routes.

Bird-Watch Cape (www.birdwatch.co.za) Small, Cape Town–based outfit for twitchers, with tours including a nationwide 17-day package.

Cape Birding Route (www.capebirdingroute.org) Information relating to western South Africa, from Cape Point to the Kalahari.

Indicator Birding (www.birding.co.za) Information, articles and tours. Based in Gauteng.

Limpopo Birding Routes (www.limpopobirding.com) Lists guides and four routes, including one taking in the Soutpansberg mountains and Limpopo River Valley.

Southern African Birding (www.sabirding.co.za) Multimedia guides and information.

Zululand Birding Route (www.zululandbirdingroute.co.za) Avitourism project in an area of northern KwaZulu-Natal featuring over 600 bird species.

Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting

South Africa has few major rivers, but those it has flow year-round and offer rewarding rafting and canoeing. Rafting is highly rain dependent, with the best months in most areas from December/January to April.

Felix Unite ( icon-phonegif %087 354 0578; www.felixunite.com) Runs trips on the Breede and Orange (Gariep) Rivers.

Induna Adventures (www.indunaadventures.com) White-water rafting and tubing (‘geckoing’) on the Sabie River.

Intrapid (www.raftsa.co.za) Rafting trips on rivers including the Orange, Doring and Palmiet.

Kaskazi Kayaks (www.kayak.co.za) Sea-kayaking trips in Cape Town.

PaddleYak (www.seakayak.co.za) Sea-kayak online shop, news and tours.

Swazi Trails Offers trips on eSwatini’s Great Usutu River (Lusutfu River) and around the country.

Diving

Take the plunge off the southern end of Africa into the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. Strong currents and often windy conditions mean advanced divers can find challenges all along the coast. Sodwana Bay on KwaZulu-Natal’s Elephant Coast is a good choice for beginners, while Aliwal Shoal and Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) are also popular.

When to Go Conditions vary widely. The best time to dive the KwaZulu-Natal shoreline is from May to September, when visibility tends to be highest. In the west, along the Atlantic seaboard, the water is cold year-round, but is at its most diveable, with many days of high visibility, between November and January/February.

Costs Prices are generally lower in South Africa than elsewhere in the region. Expect to pay from R5000 for a four-day PADI open-water certification course, and from R350 for a dive.

Equipment Coastal towns where diving is possible have dive outfitters. With the exception of Sodwana Bay during the warmer months (when a 3mm wetsuit will suffice), you’ll need at least a 5mm wetsuit for many sites, and a dry suit for some sites to the south and west.

Fishing

Sea fishing is popular, with a wide range of species in the warm and cold currents that flow past the east and west coasts, respectively.

River fishing, especially for introduced trout, is popular in parks and reserves, with some particularly good highland streams in the Drakensberg (for example, in the Rhodes area). Dullstroom is the capital of highveld fly fishing and Lesotho is an insider’s tip among trout anglers.

SAFE DIVING

In popular diving areas such as Sodwana Bay, there is a range of diving companies – including some slipshod operations. When choosing an operator, make quality – rather than cost – your priority. Factors to consider include an operator’s experience and qualifications, knowledge and seriousness of staff, whether it’s a fly-by-night operation or well-established with a good reputation locally, and the type and condition of equipment and frequency of maintenance. Assess whether the overall attitude is professional, and ask about safety considerations – radios, oxygen, emergency evacuation procedures, boat reliability and back-up engines, first-aid kits, safety flares and life jackets. On longer dives, do you get an energising meal, or just tea and biscuits?

Using operators offering courses certified by the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (www.padi.com) gives you the flexibility to go elsewhere in the world and have your certification recognised at other PADI dive centres.

Licences are available for a few rand at park offices, and some shops and accommodation rent out equipment.

Bass Fishing South Africa (www.bassfishing.co.za) Forum and details of fishing sites.

Cape Piscatorial Society (www.piscator.co.za) Licences for sites around Cape Town and the Winelands.

Sealine (www.sealine.co.za) Angling and boating community.

Southern African Trout & Flyfishing Directory (www.flyfisher.co.za) Inspiration for a fly-fishing safari.

Wild Trout Association (www.wildtrout.co.za) Rhodes-based repository of fishing lore.

Hiking

South Africa is a wonderful destination for hiking – as are Lesotho and eSwatini – with an excellent system of well-marked trails varied enough to suit every ability.

Accommodation Some trails offer accommodation, from camping and simple huts with electricity and running water, to hotels on slackpacking trails in the Eastern Cape and elsewhere. Book well in advance.

Guided walks Various parks, including Kruger, offer hikes ranging from two- to three-hour bush walks to overnight or multiday wilderness trails. Accompanied by armed rangers, you won’t cover much distance, but they offer the chance to experience the wild with nothing between you and nature. Numerous tour operators also offer guided hikes in areas such as the Wild Coast and Drakensberg – excellent ways to get off the beaten track and experience African village life.

Off-trail hiking Some designated wilderness areas offer this. Routes are suggested, but it’s basically up to you to survive on your own.

Regulations Many trails have limits as to how many hikers can be on them at any one time, so book ahead. Most longer routes and wilderness areas require hikers to be in a group of at least three or four, although solo hikers may be able to join a group.

Safety Not a major issue on most trails, but longer trails have seen muggings and burglaries of accommodation, while robberies and attacks can occur on the contour paths on Table Mountain, neighbouring Lion’s Head, Signal Hill and

especially Devil’s Peak. Check with the local hiking club or park office. On longer and quieter trails, hike in a group and limit the valuables you carry. In Cape Town, do not walk alone, and avoid early mornings, evenings and other quiet times. The Table Mountain plateau is usually safe.

When to go Hiking is possible year-round, although you’ll need to be prepared in summer for extremes of heat and wet. The best time in the northern half of the country is March to October. For Cape Town and the Western Cape, spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May) offer cool, dry weather.

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Pony trekking in Lesotho | NADINE SWART/GETTY IMAGES ©

Resources

Recommended books:

Best Walks of the Drakensberg by David