Lonely Planet Panama

By Regis St Louis

Lonely Planet’s Panama is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore Panama City, surf at Santa Catalina, and dive at Parque Nacional Coiba; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Panama and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Panama Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Panama’s best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas
Color maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 40 maps 

Covers Panama City, Panama Province, Cocle Province, Peninsula de Azuero, Veraguas Province, Chiriqui Province, Bocas del Toro Province, Colon Province, Comarca de Guna Yala, Darien Province

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Panama, our most comprehensive guide to Panama, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less traveled. 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

 

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Oct 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580460

Regis St Louis

Regis St. Louis creció en una pequeña ciudad del Medio Oeste de EEUU, el tipo de lugar que alimenta grandes sueños de viaje, y desarrolló una temprana fascinación por los dialectos extranjeros y las culturas del mundo. Pasó sus años de formación estudiando ruso y un puñado de lenguas romances, que le fueron de mucha utilidad en sus viajes por gran parte del planeta. Regis ha participado en más de 50 títulos de Lonely Planet cubriendo destinos en seis continentes. Sus viajes le han llevado desde las montañas de Kamchatka, pasando por remotas aldeas isleñas en Melanesia, hasta grandes paisajes urbanos. Cuando no está viajando vive en Nueva Orleans.

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Panama

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Panama

Panama’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time Panama

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Panama Outdoors

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Panama City

Sights

Activities & Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Panamá Province

Around Panama City

Panama Canal

Canal Zone

Pacific Islands

Isla Taboga

Archipiélago de las Perlas

Pacific Coast

La Chorrera

Parque Nacional Altos de Campana

Punta Chame

Pacific Coast Beaches

Coclé Province

El Valle

Santa Clara

Farallón & Playa Blanca

Antón

Penonomé

La Pintada

Reserva Privada Távida

Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos

Natá

Aguadulce

Península de Azuero

Chitré

Around Chitré

Interior Azuero

La Villa de Los Santos

Road to Las Tablas

Guararé

La Enea

Las Tablas

Pedasí

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Isla Iguana

Azuero Coastline

Veraguas Province

Santiago

San Francisco

Santa Fé

Santa Catalina

Parque Nacional Coiba

Isla Cébaco

The Sunset Coast

Chiriquí Province

Lowlands

David

Playa Barqueta

Golfo de Chiriquí

Playa Las Lajas

David to Boquete

Highlands

Boquete

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú

Volcán

Santa Clara

Bambito

Cerro Punta

Guadalupe

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Las Nubes)

The Fortuna Road

Bocas del Toro Province

Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro

Isla Colón

Isla Carenero

Isla Solarte

Isla San Cristóbal & Around

Isla Bastimentos

Mainland

Almirante

Changuinola

Humedal de San San Pond Sak

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso)

Las Delicias

Bosque Protector de Palo Seco

Colón Province

Colón

Around Colón

Área Protegida San Lorenzo

Portobelo

Puerto Lindo

Isla Grande

Comarca de Guna Yala

Best Off-the- Beaten-Track Spots

Gardi (Cartí) Islands & Around

Cayos Limones & Chicheme

Río Sidra (Mamartupu & Urgandi) & Western Islands

Cayos Los Grullos, Holandeses & Ordupuquip

Aggwanusadub (Corazón de Jesús), Yandup (Narganá) & Central Islands

Uggubseni (Playón Chico) & Eastern Islands

Assudub (Achutupu) & Uaguinega

The Road to Gardi (Cartí)

Darién Province

The Road to Yaviza

Lago Bayano

Ipetí & Around

Puerto Lara

Metetí

Yaviza

Parque Nacional Darién

El Real

Pijibasal

Rancho Frío

Interior Darién

La Palma

Reserva Natural Punta Patiño

Mogué

Río Sambú

Sambú

Pacific Coast

Jaqué & Around

Playa Muerto

UNDERSTAND

History

The Panamanian Way of Life

Rhythms of a Nation

Art & Craft

Land & Wildlife

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodations

Activities

Children

Climate

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travelers

Work

Transportation

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitchhiking

Local Transportation

Tours

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Covid-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Panama

Is it the wildlife-filled rainforests or the golden beaches, volcano hikes or sunset cocktails by the sea? There are so many ways to fall for Panama. The relatively small size of the Central American nation only adds to its appeal. On a weeklong getaway, you can look for monkeys on highland trails, snorkel through magnificent vibrant coral reefs, visit remote villages on community-run eco-tours and bask on palm-fringed islands off either coastline — capping the trip with dining and nightlife in the historic old quarter of the Panamanian capital. This is a country of limitless possibility.

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Three-toed sloth | PARKOL/GETTY IMAGES ©

By Regis St Louis, Writer

regis-st-louis-2018-BW

png @regisstlouis png regisstlouis

For more about Our Writers

Panama’s Top Experiences

1DRAMATIC LANDSCAPES

Rainforests, verdant mountain peaks and palm-fringed islands offer a glimpse of tropical wilderness, and there are many ways to immerse yourself in Panama’s natural treasures. You can overnight in a cabin on the edge of the jungle or channel your inner Robinson Crusoe on a remote island. There’s even one famous peak where on clear days you can see both the Atlantic and the Pacific.

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COLIN_RIESER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Panama Canal

One of the world’s greatest shortcuts (pictured) slices right through the continental divide, linking the Atlantic and the Pacific. Visitors centers, museums and viewing platforms help you make sense of the canal, though you can also book a partial transit by boat for a closer look.

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MITCHELL CHRISTOPHER/500PX ©

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú

Panama’s sole volcano dominates the landscape of the misty Chiriquí highlands (pictured), and at 3474m, it is also the highest point in the country. Make the predawn climb for a rewarding view of both oceans or head off on legendary trail such as the Sendero Los Quetzales in hopes of seeing orchids, tapirs and resplendent quetzals.

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MARK52/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Isla Bastimentos

Set with mangrove forests, picturesque beaches and a forested interior, the Caribbean Island of Bastimentos (pictured) is one of Panama’s best places for reconnecting with nature.

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DAMSEA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2BEACHES & ISLANDS

Wedged between the Pacific and the Atlantic, Panama is blessed with not one but two gorgeous coastlines. Panama’s curving shores stretch for nearly 3000km, and encompass long expanses of white sand beaches, cliff-backed coves and rainforest-covered islands fronting teal-blue seas. Whether you’re after great surf or simply a peaceful spot to unwind under the swaying palms, Panama has some enchanting options.

Archipiélago de San Blas

Locally known as Guna Yala, this 400-plus island archipelago (pictured) in the Caribbean is an independent indigenous territory steeped in tradition. Overnight on remote palm-fringed islets and get around by speedboat, sailboat or dugout canoe.

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ANDY TROY/500PX ©

Santa Catalina

Equal parts surf village and small town, Santa Catalina has world-class waves (pictured) that roll in year-round but peak in February and March. The town is also the launching pad for excursions and diving trips.

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FOTOS593/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro

‘It’s all good,’ say the laid-back locals of this Caribbean island chain (pictured). Pedal to the beach on a cruiser bike, hum to improvised calypso and laze over dinner in a thatched hut on the waterfront. Surfers hit the breaks but there’s also snorkeling with varied sea life or volunteering opportunities to help nesting sea turtles.

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KRISTINA VACKOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3FRAGMENTS FROM THE PAST

Once an important Spanish settlement in the New World, Panama is home to one of Central America’s most captivating colonial centers. The cobblestone streets of Casco Viejo are dotted with beautifully restored buildings, some of which date back to the 17th century, while the nearby site of Panama Viejo takes you even further back in time. The province of Colón also has some fascinating colonial sites, best reached by the vintage Panama Canal Railway.

Península de Azuero

Spanish culture has deep roots here, evident in the charm of tiled colonials, country hospitality, religious festivals and elaborate polleras (embroidered lace dresses).

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Girl wearing a pollera in Chitré | MAREK POPLAWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Casco Viejo

Peel back the centuries while exploring the grand plazas and 300-year-old churches of a Unesco-listed district (pictured) reminiscent of Old Havana.

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SHAHAIRA/GETTY IMAGES©

Fuerte San Jerónimo

On Panama’s Atlantic coast, you can gaze out over the canon-lined ramparts of this iconic fort (pictured), built in stages from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

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MAREK POPLAWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

Panama’s diverse geography sets the stage for a wide range of adventures. You can go speeding through rainforest canopies on ziplines, hike through misty cloud forests en route to lofty summits or paddle your way over churning rapids on whitewater rafting excursions in the highlands. The coastline offers equally enchanting ways to spend a sun-drenched day, from snorkeling over coral reefs to ocean kayaking around uninhabited islands.

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ROBIN RUNCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Boquete

An adventure hub and mountain retreat, Boquete draws travelers of all stripes. Birdwatchers come for a glimpse of the resplendent quetzal, while adventurers come to climb a mountain, ride a zipline or raft white water.

Nivida Bat Cave

Journey to this massive Caribbean cavern rife with nectar bats. After a boat ride through mangroves and a forest-lined walk, you can go for a swim in a subterranean lake.

Sendero Los Quetzales

This magnificent hike in rainforest-covered highlands (pictured) takes you over rushing rivers and up to viewpoints overlooking the verdant expanse.

Top Experiences

5WILDLIFE WATCHING

Scarlet macaws, toucans, sloths and squirrel monkeys are just a few of Panama’s local stars, and with over 220 mammal and 978 bird species, few other countries have such diversity packed into such a compact space. The calls, cries and rumbles of the rainforest leave a deep impression. Serious birders might head to the highlands to spot a quetzal or brave the Darién for a glimpse of the legendary harpy eagle.

Parque Nacional Coiba

Spy flocks of scarlet macaws (pictured), enormous schools of fish, migrating humpback whales with calves, and manta rays in this pristine island park that’s often compared to the Galápagos.

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ONDREJ PROSICKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Parque Nacional Soberanía

One of the country’s most accessible tropical rainforests, Soberanía is home to over 500 bird species, along with sloths, howler monkeys and white-faced capuchins (pictured).

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SARAFALLSTROM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Reserva Natural Punta Patiño

Make the journey to this reserve in the Darién for the chance to see a harpy eagle (pictured), the world’s most powerful bird of prey.

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DAVID TIPLING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

6PANAMANIAN CUISINE

Though it’s little known outside the country, Panamanian cooking showcases a mix of tropical flavors and abundant seafood, with plenty of comfort fare thanks to its fertile farm valleys. Along the Caribbean coast, you’ll find shrimp, lobster and corvina (a type of sea bass) cooked up with West Indian influence, while Panama City brings tastes from every corner of the country and beyond. Markets and fondas (family-run eateries) are good spots to try local delicacies.

Cerro Brujo

In a backyard setting in Volcán, this unexpected gourmet restaurant serves up organic, locally sourced cuisine with a selection of dishes that changes by day.

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Chefs from Cerro Brujo taking delivery from a farmer | HEMIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Pipa’s Beach Restaurant

Overlooking the crashing waves near Farallón, Pipa’s serves up some of the best seafood for miles around. You’ll find Asian-inspired delicacies and and creative cocktails.

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KERIG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lo Que Hay

Headed by the award-winning Panamanian chef José Carles, Lo Que Hay gives the star treatment to Panama’s street food with creative touches and mouth-watering desserts. It’s located on the edge of Casco Viejo.

Top Experiences

7OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Go where the wild things are. Soak in the spray of towering waterfalls in the highlands. Visit one of Panama’s seven indigenous groups through community tourism. Live out your castaway fantasies on one of hundreds of islands in the Comarca de Guna Yala or idle on a wilderness beach in Península de Azuero. Howl back at the creatures sharing the canopy. Panama is as wild as you want it to be.

Sante Fé

Dancing butterflies, swimming holes and giant waterfalls (pictured) grace this humble mountain town. You can also hike along rainforest trails amid the region’s famous birdlife atop Cerro Tuto.

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WILLIAM FLENNIKEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Isla Gobernadora

Home to locals and artists, this seldom-visited island (pictured) in the Golfo de Montijo immerses you in nature with white-sand beaches, lush forest and a welcome lack of crowds.

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WILDFILES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Soposo Rainforest Adventures

Step off the gringo trail to sleep in stilted huts and explore remote Naso villages. You can arrange camping trips, wildlife-watching treks and other adventures.

Top Experiences

8NIGHTLIFE

When the sun goes down, Central America’s most vibrant metropolis lights up. In Panama City, you can join music lovers over a night at a salsa club, sip cocktails on a rooftop bar or taste your way through the small-batch lineup at a craft brewery. Beyond the nation’s capital, you’ll find buzzing seaside bars in Bocas del Toro, surfer hangouts in Santa Catalina and a laid back bar- and cafe scene in Boquete.

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E_ROJAS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Casco Viejo

Panama City’s oldest neighborhood (pictured) remains as vital as ever. Dart across the cobblestones between underground bars, brewpubs, wine bars and live-music venues.

Tántalo Bar

Head up to this rooftop bar for a memorable sunset while sipping well-made cocktails. Later on, DJs and the occasional band bring in the party crowd.

Bocas del Toro

There are many ways to cap a sun-drenched day in the islands. A good place to start is at the Aqua Lounge’s deckside swings or over a craft beer at Bocas Brewery.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

US dollar (balboa; $)

Language

Spanish, English

Visas

Visas are generally not required for stays of up to 90 days.

Money

ATMs are readily available except in Darién Province, on Islas Contadora and Tobago and in the Archipiélago de San Blas. Credit cards are accepted at restaurants and hotels but may be problematic elsewhere.

Cell Phones

Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked phones. Choose your carrier carefully, as only certain operators have coverage in the San Blás islands and Darién Province.

Time

Eastern Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus five hours, or minus six hours early April to late Oct)

When to Go

03-climate-pan9

High-Season Peak (public holidays)

A Includes November festivals, Christmas and New Year, plus Easter.

A Hotel rates may be up to double that of normal rates.

A Resorts, festival towns and beaches are crowded with Panamanian vacationers.

Shoulder Season (mid-Dec–mid-Apr)

A Corresponds with the Pacific-side dry season.

A Little rain in Panama City and elsewhere south of the continental divide.

Low Season (mid-Apr–early Dec)

A Corresponds with rainy season in most of the country.

A Rain is sporadic: check regional climate guides, as many destinations can still be enjoyed.

A Lodging rates and resorts are better priced.

Useful Websites

Visit Panama (www.visitpanama.com) The English-language official national tourism website.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/panama) The popular Thorn Tree forum, travel news and links to other useful sites.

Casco Viejo (www.cascoviejo.org) Panama City information.

Degusta Panama (www.degustapanama.com) Website and app with locals’ restaurant picks.

Panama Today (www.panamatoday.com) English-language news site useful for culture and local politics.

Lanic (http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/ca/panama) Academic links from the University of Texas Latin American Information Center.

Important Numbers

Panama has no regional dialing codes.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$70

A Dorm bed: US$18

A Dine on comida corriente (set meals; US$7), visit markets and street stalls

A Plan sightseeing via bus, DIY visits to beaches and waterfall hikes

Midrange: US$70–150

A Double room at a midrange hotel: US$60–130

A Some fine dining, activities (snorkel rental or surf lessons) and regional flights

A Car rental: per day US$50

Top end: More than US$150

A Double room at a high-end hotel, resort or lodge: from US$130

A Meal at a fine-dining restaurant: US$50

A Guided trips with bilingual naturalist guides

A Internal flights and 4WD rental

Opening Hours

Opening hours vary throughout the year. The following are high-season hours.

Banks 8am–3pm Monday to Friday, 9am–noon Saturday

Bars & clubs Bars from 9pm; clubs 11pm–3am or 4am

Government offices 8am–4pm Monday to Friday

Malls & shops 10am–9pm or 10pm

Offices 8am–noon and 1:30–5pm Monday to Friday

Restaurants 7–10am, noon–3pm and 6–10pm (later in Panama City); often closed Sunday

Supermarkets 8am–9pm; some open 24 hours

Arriving in Panama

Tocumen International Airport Most international flights arrive at this airport in Panama City. Hire taxis (from around US$30) at the transport desk near baggage claim. It’s a 40-minute ride to downtown. In daylight hours local buses (US$1.25) depart every 15 minutes for Albrook Bus Terminal, near Albrook regional airport (one hour), and other destinations.

Panamá Pacífico International Airport Located 12km southwest of Panama City. Viva Air Colombia airline began using this small airport, the former US Howard Air Force Base, in 2014. A taxi will cost about US$6.

Aeropuerto Enrique Malek (David) This airport handles flights to and from San José (Costa Rica). It’s about 5km from town; take a taxi (US$5).

Getting Around

As most Panamanians use public transportation, it’s reasonably priced and connections are frequent.

Bus Most cities have a terminal with frequent regional departures and connections to Panama City and often to Costa Rica.

Car Rentals are not cheap, but roads are generally in decent condition. Some areas, including Panama City and many rural parts of the country, are very poorly signposted.

Train Mostly a novelty for tourists, a rail service runs between Panama City and Colón.

Air Domestic flights depart Panama City’s Albrook Airport to certain destinations within the country.

For much more on Getting Around

First Time Panama

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Check passport validity

A Check visa situation and government travel advisories

A Organize travel insurance

A Check luggage restrictions

A Check your immunization history

A Contact your credit-card provider to see if there’s car-rental insurance coverage

A Put in a travel notice with credit or debit card companies

What to Pack

A Passport

A Phrasebook or language app

A Swimsuit

A Camera and battery charger

A Flip-flops

A Sun protection

A Poncho or rain jacket

A Binoculars

A Strong insect repellent (30% to 50% DEET)

A Refillable water bottle

A Driver’s license, if you plan to rent a car

A Field guide

A Flashlight or headlamp

A Offline map app

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Don’t flag a taxi in front of a high-end hotel if you don’t want to be charged tourist rates off the bat; taxis aren’t metered, so walk a block – it pays!

A Outside the cities, many perfectly good lodgings don’t have a handle on email and websites. Don’t get frustrated if no one sees your reservation – the hotel email might have been created by a precocious nephew who never checks it. If you have even basic Spanish, call ahead.

A Panamanians are used to foreigners dissing local idiosyncrasies – like drivers not using signals, or crowds that can’t form lines. But, instead, ask why it is the way it is and you’ll have a lively conversation.

What to Wear

Locals rarely wear shorts if not at the beach. Bring lightweight pants or skirts and short-sleeved shirts or tops. Dining and nightlife can be formal in the capital: bring proper dress shoes or sandals and a skirt or dress for women, pants and a dress shirt for men. Pack a light sweater for over-air-conditioned restaurants and bus rides. A fleece and lightweight shell are necessary for the highlands. For hiking, long sleeves and (quick-drying) pants help keep the bugs away.

Sleeping

Book accommodations two to six months ahead for Semana Santa (‘Holy Week’; the week preceding Easter), the November festivals and the week between Christmas and New Year. Most lodgings require reservations in high season.

Hotels In abundance in the midrange and high-end categories.

B&Bs A midrange phenomenon most common in the capital as well as Boquete and Bocas del Toro.

Hostels Cheap and spreading in Panama, ranging from quiet budget digs to party central.

Lodges From rustic to high end, found mostly in the highlands.

Etiquette

Asking for help Say discúlpame to get someone’s attention; perdón to say ‘excuse me.’

Personal space Don’t be surprised if locals have fewer boundaries about personal space than what’s customary in North America and Europe.

Visiting indigenous communities Ask permission to take photos, particularly of children, and dress modestly. Some bargaining may be appropriate for buying crafts but not for lodging and food. The best gifts for children are those that are useful (pens, paper, notebooks, games or books), not sweets.

Surfing Novice surfers should be aware of ‘dropping in’ on more experienced surfers and of swimmers in their path.

Money

Panama uses the US dollar as its currency. The official name for it is the balboa, but it’s exactly the same bill. People use the terms dólar and balboa interchangeably.

Panamanian coins are of the same value, size and metal as US ones, though both are used interchangeably. Coins include one, five, 10, 25 and 50 centavos – 100 centavos equal one balboa (dollar). Most businesses won’t break US$50 and US$100 bills.

Bargaining

It’s OK but not common to bargain at markets and street stalls, but first ask around for an idea of the price of different items, particularly handmade goods, and the factors that contribute to quality. Rather than intensive negotiations, ask for a descuento (discount).

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Guna molas for sale | IVAN_SABO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tipping

Restaurants Tipping should be 10%. Check if it’s included in the bill.

Taxis Tipping is optional, but you can round up a dollar or two, especially at night.

Guides It is customary to tip US$7 to US$10 per person for day tours; tip on the high end for naturalist guides.

Language

Knowing some basic Spanish phrases is not only courteous but often essential, particularly when navigating through rural areas, interacting with park rangers and shopping at local markets. That said, English speakers are easier to find here than in any other part of Latin America. Not only did the US occupation leave its stamp, but many Panamanians have lived abroad or have family in the USA. Some restaurants feature English menus, and it’s certainly the standard for guides. If you visit Guna Yala, learning a few words of Guna beforehand is a great way to warm relations but is hardly essential.

What’s New

Panama set aggressive goals under a UN climate agreement in 2020, and is placing conservation of its forests and oceans a top priority. Looking to Costa Rica as a model, Panama sees sustainable tourism as one of the best ways to revitalize its economy after the devastating impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Sustainable Tourism

In 2020 Panama announced plans to develop a new sustainable tourism circuit that celebrates the unique cultural heritage of its Indigenous peoples. Dubbed Panama Indígena, or Indigenous Panama, the circuit will help showcase Panama’s pre-Columbian cultures as well as its living Indigenous peoples – Bribrí, Naso, Ngöbe-Buglé, Guna, Wounaan and Emberá – and it will emphasize sustainability along with elements like dance, music, handicrafts, traditional medicine, gastronomy, ecological hiking and site museums.

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Craft-making in an Emberá community | SEISHORASMENOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Transport Upgrades in Panama City

The only metro system in Central America keeps getting better. Inaugurated in 2014, El Metro completed its second phase in 2019. Line 2 covers another a 21km route and serves 16 stations between San Miguelito and Nuevo Tocumen, with a transfer to Line 1 at San Miguelito. Still in the works are extensions to the western suburbs (including a subterranean tunnel beneath the Panama Canal) and a link to Tocumen International Airport. In 2021, Panama also broke ground on a 34km monorail, due for completion in 2025 at a cost of US$2.8 billion. The infrastructure investments are all part of a national master plan to improve transportation in Panama City.

Rejuvenating Colón

Back in 2014 the Panamanian government committed over $1 billion of investment to Colón, a city that has struggled with poverty for decades. The years of work are now bearing fruit, with the restoration of residential buildings, modernization of its decrepit market (while still preserving its 84-year-old facade) and more than 80,000 square meters of green space. One focal point of the multiyear project is the Altos de los Lagos, a planned community built on a former US canal zone military base that meets UN sustainable development goals.

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Colón | SOLARISYS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN PANAMA

As elsewhere in the world, Panama’s tourism sector — which accounts for 16% of the country’s GDP — was hard hit by the COVID-19 pandemic, and visitor numbers fell by more than 70% in 2020. Rather than simply wait for things to return to normal, Panama’s government unveiled an ambitious new plan in 2020, earmarking US$300 million toward developing sustainable tourism over the next five years.

Unlike in years past, the focus isn’t on cruise ships or mega hotels, but rather on nature and communities, and the new initiative aims to involve Panama’s indigenous people in the effort. To do that, the government formed an alliance with various nature and sustainable tourism non-profits and is working with indigenous communities to help with training and creating opportunities to sustainably share their rich natural and cultural heritage with visitors. The idea is to grow the tourism market while also improving the lives of local communities.

Hotel La Compañia

Even during the pandemic, Panama continued to break ground on new tourist developments. In Casco Viejo, several colonial buildings will be transformed into the luxury Hotel La Compañia, which opens in 2022. The site occupies a former Jesuit mission, founded in the 17th century, and features three wings with French colonial, Spanish colonial, and early 1900s American (Canal period) design. La Compañia aims to evoke the past in its rooms as well as its restaurants and bars, with showstoppers like El Santuario, reminiscent of Spanish-colonial stone church, and American Bazaar, a painstaking recreation of a 1905 local department store.

Tocumen International Airport Expansion

The finishing touches are being put on the nearly $1 billion dollar expansion of Panama’s main airport. After years of delays, the airport was set to increase capacity from just under six million passengers to 15 million passengers by late 2022. Increased capacity has brought new connections to the airport, including flights from Los Angeles, Denver and Orlando. Copa Airlines, Panama’s flagship carrier, continues to promote Tocumen as the gateway to Latin America.

Amador Convention Center

Located on the Amador Causeway, this ultramodern event center marked its grand inauguration in late 2021. The center draws international fairs and exhibitions, and positions itself as the best in Central America with a capacity of 23,000 visitors. The cutting-edge building boasts a fine view of the Panama Canal and the city’s skyline, and is expected to generate over US$700 million in annual revenue.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/Panama/articles

The Panama News (www.thepanamanews.com) English-language coverage of news and culture.

PTY Life (www.pty.life) Expat blog of the latest travel hotspots in Panama.

Panama (www.instagram.com/panama) Inspirational photos from across the country.

Degusta (www.degustapanama.com) Website and app with diner-based reviews and photos.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Gourmet street food

Number of recorded bird species 986

Percentage of country that is protected 25%

Population 4.3 million

Viceroy Bocas

The award-winning Viceroy Hotels brand will open a new resort in the Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro. Spread across 185 hectares of coastline, the luxury resort will boast 5km of white sand beaches, plus 42 private over-the-water villas and 186 guest rooms. There will be plenty of activities on site: you can go surfing, paddleboarding, kayaking and snorkeling, and the resort can set you up with guided forest hikes through the nearby San San Pond Sak wetlands and other excursions. The Viceroy also has various pools, a spa, a fitness center, meditation areas and plenty of dining and drinking options.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Panama Jazz Festival, January

Carnaval, February–March

Festival de Diablos y Congos, February–March

Festival of Nogagope, October

January

With dry season and tourist season at their peaks, this is a big month for travel in Panama. It’s prime time for kitesurfing and swimming, with Pacific temperatures at their warmest and the wind blowing.

3 Panama Jazz Festival

The weeklong jazz festival (www.panamajazzfestival.com) is one of the biggest musical events in Panama, drawing top-caliber international musicians from jazz, blues, salsa and other genres. Held throughout the city, the open-air events are usually free.

z Fiesta del Mar

At the end of the month on tiny Isla Taboga, a boat ride away from Panama City, this new tradition revives island culture with a weekend festival (www.fiestadelmarpanama.com) of calypso music, dancing and food events.

March

It’s prime time for surfing on both Pacific and Caribbean swells. High season is winding down. Events related to the religious calendar may take place in February or March.

z Carnaval

On the four days preceding Ash Wednesday, general merriment prevails in Panama City and the Península de Azuero. This anything-goes, multi-event period features street parades, water fights, costumes and live music till the wee hours.

z Festival de Diablos y Congos

Held every other year two weeks after Carnaval, this Congo festival celebrates rebellious slave ancestors with spirited public dancing featuring beautiful masks and costumes. Participants assume the role of escaped slaves and take captives on the street.

z Semana Santa

During Holy Week (the week before Easter), the country hosts many special events, including a re-enactment of the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ. On Good Friday, religious processions are held in towns across the country.

May

With sporadic, refreshing rain showers, the weather is generally pleasant throughout the country. May begins a five- to six-month nesting season for both loggerhead and green sea turtles on the Caribbean coast.

z Fiesta de Corpus Christi

Forty days after Easter, this religious holiday features colorful celebrations in Villa de Los Santos. Masked and costumed dancers representing angels, devils, imps and other mythological figures perform dances, acrobatics and dramas. In May or June.

July

Though it’s the middle of rainy season, the weather is relatively dry on the Caribbean side. It’s also off-peak for visitors, and hotels offer better rates.

z Nuestra Señora del Carmen

Celebrating the patron saint of Isla Taboga, this event on July 16 starts with a procession parading the Virgin statue, followed by fire-breathing, games and dance.

z Virgen del Carmen

Every July 16, the Veraguas coast celebrates the Festival of Virgen del Carmen. Decorated boats tour the islands and gulf around Santa Catalina. Singing and celebrations invoke long life and the protection of the fishing boats.

z Fiesta de Santa Librada

Celebrating the patron saint of Las Tablas and incorporating the Festival de la Pollera, this July 19 event stretches over four days, with huge street celebrations and solemn religious services and processions in Península de Azuero.

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Día de Independencia celebrations | GUALBERTO BECERRA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

August

Breeding humpback whales can be observed in the Archipiélago de Las Perlas. Mid-month Panama City celebrates its founding in 1519 with a stream of events. Rainy season continues.

z Festival del Manito Ocueño

Among the country’s best folkloric events, this three-day bash features traditional music and dancing, and culminates in a country wedding. Held the third week of August in the rural village of Ocú.

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Masked dancers, Fiesta de Corpus Christi | BARNA TANKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

September

The rain usually lets up a little, particularly around Panama City. Still low season, it’s a good time to travel around the country, with no need for reservations.

z Feria de la Mejorana

In late September, Panama’s largest folkloric festival draws musicians and traditional dancers from all over the country to tiny Guararé on the Península de Azuero. Party with oxcart parades and seco cocktails.

October

October 12 is Día de la Raza (Colombus Day); a dubious legacy nonetheless celebrated by every high-school brass band letting loose. Throughout Panama, some very different yet excellent festivals are well worth attending.

z Festival of Nogagope

Guna converge on Isla Tigre for three days of tireless traditional dancing. It’s visually engaging and fully authentic. Held from October 10 to 12, it’s followed by a four-day fair with art shows and canoe races.

z Festival of the Black Christ

On October 21, thousands honor the Black Christ in Portobelo. Many make the pilgrimage on foot from the capital to honor this maker of miracles. After a nighttime procession there’s dancing and drinking till late.

z Toro Guapo

One of the best street parties in the country, the ‘Handsome Bull’ festival takes place in the Coclé town of Antón for three days during the second week of October.

November

Don’t come to Panama for business between November and December, as the whole country takes off to celebrate multiple independence-related holidays in November, and then there’s the Christmas holiday. Panama City empties out and beaches are full.

z Día de Independencia

On November 28 Panama celebrates its independence from Spain with parties and revelry throughout the country. Most locals head to the beach and enjoy a drink or 10. Book any travel well ahead.

Plan Your Trip

Itineraries

Essential Panama

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1 WEEK

For a taste of tropical Panama, start with the hyper-charged capital. Explore the city and see colonial ruins and landmarks such as the famous Panama Canal while getting a dose of rainforest adventure. Top it off with a chilled Caribbean getaway.

Imbibe the rush of Panama City. In Panamá Viejo, admire Spain’s first Pacific settlement, laid waste in a massive pirate raid. Pedal along the coastal beltway Cinta Costera to historic Casco Viejo, with hip plaza restaurants, rooftop bars, galleries and 18th-century cathedrals.

Take a day trip to Miraflores Locks to watch mammoth ships make their way through the canal. Visit nearby rainforest in the wildlife-rich Parque Nacional Soberanía, a favorite of birdwatchers. Or kayak on Lago Gatún alongside howler monkeys and sunbathing crocodiles.

From Panama City, fly to Bocas del Toro Town for four days of Caribbean relaxation and snorkeling among colorful coral reefs. Explore Isla Colón by cruiser bike and go on a pub crawl in quirky Bocas Town.

Boat out to the idyllic thatched resorts at Isla Bastimentos, take a chocolate tour on the Bocas del Toro mainland or visit indigenous groups on other islands through a community-tourism initiative.

Fly back to the capital for a last call in the city’s sleek bars and clubs.

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Panamá Viejo | DIEGO GRANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Cacao pods, Bocas del Toro Province | ANDAMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Pacific Coast & Highlands

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2 WEEKS

Whether you’re traveling on buses or with your own wheels, hit the Interamericana for a route that alternates between scenic beaches and highland cloud forests.

Spend your first few days exploring Panama City. Then head west along the Interamericana, where you can stop for a leisurely seafood lunch and explore the string of beaches along the Pacific coast. Overnight at Mamallena Ecolodge in the cool, sculpted foothills. The next stop is El Valle, a mountain retreat surrounded by lush cloud forests and green peaks. Return to the Interamericana, visiting Coclé’s roadside attractions, then detour for Santa Fé, a tiny highland town amid sparkling rivers and gorgeous waterfalls. On your way out, browse the gorgeous Iglesia de San Francisco de la Montaña outside Santa Fé.

For surf time, backtrack to the Interamericana and detour to Santa Catalina. Soak up the laid-back vibe at thatched restaurants and join the local surfing kids nailing the waves on the town beach. Another very good reason to stop here is to connect to Parque Nacional Coiba, a far-flung, pristine island in a vast marine park. Snorkeling, diving and hiking are all top notch; although there’s minimal infrastructure, it’s worth staying a few days.

Head via David to the popular highland retreat of Boquete in Chiriquí. Go hiking or rafting or take a canopy tour and fill up on mountain-grown coffee. Birdwatchers can stalk the resplendent quetzal. Choose from one of the fine-dining options and sleep soundly in clean mountain air.

If you have your own wheels, take the paved road to Volcán, a very scenic shortcut. Those without wheels can bus via David to Cerro Punta. Retreat to a charming rainforest cabin before hitting the trail to hike the Sendero Los Quetzales, a stunning trail through wildlife-rich cloud forest. If traveling by bus, you can loop back to Boquete on this hike. If adventure still calls, from Cerro Punta you can access the trails of Parque Internacional La Amistad. Take a guide – the Panamanian side of this international park is virtually undeveloped and largely unexplored.

To save time, you can fly back to Panama City from David.

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Hawksbill turtle, Parque Nacional Coiba | ANDAMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Ceviche | SCARLETRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Bicoastal Explorer

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12 DAYS

If you’re itching to get off the beaten path, this seafarer route will bring you to the less touristed Península de Azuero on the Pacific coast, and on to the Afro-Caribbean heartland and the furthest reaches of Guna Yala (and possibly even Colombia).

Start in the capital of Panama City. From there, take a ride in the luxury train along the historical Panama Railroad through the Canal Zone to Colón to admire the Unesco World Heritage Site of Fuerte San Lorenzo. While in the area, check out the Panama Canal expansion at the nearby Agua Clara Visitors Center. Using Portobelo as your base, explore 16th-century Spanish forts, boat out to deserted island beaches, scuba dive or attend a festival.

Return to Panama City to travel to the Península de Azuero by bus. From time to time traditional festivals take over the streets of these tiny colonial towns. If your visit coincides, join the revelers! Otherwise, check out workshops where regional artisans craft Panama hats, lace dresses and colorful diablo (devil) masks. Make your base Pedasí for leisurely trips to the beach and a friendly village atmosphere. Move on to the more remote Playa Venao to enjoy a pretty half-moon bay, meet other travelers and ride some waves without the crowds. If turtles are hatching, it’s worth making the pilgrimage to Isla Cañas.

When you’re ready, return to the capital and take a 4WD or flight to Guna Yala, a string of hundreds of pristine islands ruled by Guna. Thatched huts on dozens of islands run the gamut, from bare bones to creature comforts, with meals and excursions always included. Snorkel and swim to your heart’s content, or charter a sailboat for the grand tour. Highlights include snorkeling the reefs and wrecks of the Cayos Holandeses and meeting locals on the tiny community islands. If you are heading on to South America – and bent on adventure – consider a three- to four-day sailing or boat trip to Colombia.

Otherwise, end your trip by returning to Panama City, where you can check out the world-class BioMuseo and have a night out in Casco Viejo.

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BioMuseo (architect Frank Gehry), Panama City | GOGRI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Fortifi cations near Portobelo | INSPIRED BY MAPS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Plan Your Trip

Panama Outdoors

Beyond Panama’s cosmopolitan capital, there’s big appeal outdoors. Start with wildlife that ranges from curious primates to breaching whales and darting butterflies. Visit jungle waterways via dugout canoe, snorkel the reefs, trek through misty cloud forest or surf Pacific tubes. Refuel with fresh coffee from the highlands, and then repeat.

Best of Panama Outdoors

Best Surf Beach

Laid-back vibes, access to Parque Nacional Coiba and world-class waves: it’s all at Santa Catalina.

Best Hike

Sendero Los Quetzales is a beautiful 8km route, running between Cerro Punta and Boquete in Chiriquí Province.

Best Sportfishing

If you want to break a sportfishing world record, your chances are high at Bahía Piña.

Best Dive Site

Parque Nacional Coiba has extraordinary marine wildlife; you might spot hammerheads or a whale shark.

Best Accessible Wildlife-Watching

More than 500 bird species have been sighted along Pipeline Rd in Parque Nacional Soberanía – hit the trail and start counting!

Best White-Water Rafting

Tackle the white water of Río Chiriquí May through December.

Boat Trips

River Trips

Partial transits through the Miraflores Locks are the best way to appreciate the Panama Canal, and one of the highlights of any trip to Panama. Another great option is to wildlife-watch from a kayak on Lago Gatún. In the Darién, tours cruise up Río Mogué to an Emberá village. In the Wekso sector of the Parque Internacional La Amistad, travelers can explore indigenous villages while heading upriver on motorized dugouts.

Ocean Trips

The 226km-long Archipiélago de San Blas is a thrill for ocean explorers. Run as an autonomous region by the Guna people, it features hundreds of coconut-fringed islands and islets surrounded by turquoise waters. Independent travelers can travel by small boat between the islands, or charter sailboats through the area and even on to Colombia.

Hiking

Panama offers everything from dry tropical rainforests and highland cloud forests to humid jungles and blustery mountain peaks.

Starting near the capital on the shores of the canal, Parque Nacional Soberanía contains a section of the historic Sendero Las Cruces. Closer to Panama City, Parque Natural Metropolitano boasts a number of short but rewarding hikes in plush rainforest that skirts the capital.

Popular highland retreats include Boquete; El Valle, nestled into the extinct volcano now known as Valle de Antón; and Santa Fé, surrounded by rivers, waterfalls and cloud forests. All feature hikes in a pristine mountain setting.

Chiriquí is home to two of Panama’s most famous hikes: Volcán Barú and Sendero Los Quetzales in Parque Nacional Volcán Barú. While Los Quetzales is more scenic in poor weather, ascents up Barú, which is Panama’s highest peak, can offer views of both oceans on a clear day.

Recommended remote destinations include the Las Nubes sector of the Parque Internacional La Amistad. With trails only accessible with a guide, it is as rugged and uncharted as Central America gets.

Diving & Snorkeling

Panama’s underwater world spans two great oceans, and abounds with colorful coral gardens, towering rock shelves, sunken wrecks and a rich diversity of marine life. Fans of multicolored reef fish and bathtub-warm water should head for the Caribbean, while more advanced divers in search of enormous pelagic animals and remote dive sites should head to the Pacific. Three major spots in Panama that have a deserved reputation for fine scuba diving are the Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro, the Caribbean town of Portobelo and the Pacific-coast Isla de Coiba.

The Caribbean islands of Bocas del Toro have a thriving dive community. During the rainy season (mid-April to mid-December) underwater visibility is extremely poor – nearly 40 rivers deposit silt into the seas around the islands, which turns the water a murky green.

Near historic Portobelo, 16 major dive sites feature underwater attractions including a 110ft cargo ship, a C-45 twin-engine plane, soft-coral-laden walls, offshore reefs and rock gardens.

The best diving in Panama is around Isla de Coiba, the centerpiece of a national marine park accessed via Santa Catalina. Divers here scout for enormous sharks including schools of hammerheads, blacktips and whitetips as well as the