Lonely Planet Hawaii the Big Island

By Luci Yamamoto

Lonely Planet's Hawaii, the Big Island is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Experience island culture, stargaze on Mauna Kea and snorkel in Kealakekua Bay; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Hawaii, the Big Island and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet's Hawaii, the Big Island:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

Color maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, surfing, wildlife, cuisine, arts & crafts, lei, politics

Covers Kailua-Kona, the Kona Coast, Kohala, Waimea, Mauna Kea, Saddle Road, Hamakua Coast, Hilo, Puna, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and more

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Hawaii, the Big Island, our most comprehensive guide to Hawaii, the Big Island, is perfect for discovering both popular and off-the-beaten-path experiences. 

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more. 

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Feb 15, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838692445

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Hawaiʻi, the Big Island

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Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Hawaiʻi, the Big Island

Hawaiʻi, the Big Island’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

What’s New

Accommodations

Getting Around

Month by Month

Itineraries

Eat & Drink Like a Local

On Land

Hiking & Biking

On Water

Snorkeling & Diving

Surfing

Green Hawaiʻi

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

KAILUA-KONA & THE KONA COAST

Hiking & Cycling the Kona Coast

Kailua-Kona

Around Kailua-Kona

Keauhou Resort Area

Holualoa

South Kona Coast

Honalo

Kainaliu

Kealakekua

Captain Cook

Kealakekua Bay

Honaunau

Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

Hoʻokena

Miloliʻi

North Kona Coast

Honokohau Harbor

Keahole Point

Kekaha Kai State Park & Kaʻupulehu

KOHALA & WAIMEA

Hiking & Cycling Around Kohala & Waimea

Road Trip: Kohala Mountain Road

South Kohala

Waikoloa Beach Resort Area

Waikoloa Village

Mauna Lani Resort Area

Puako

Mauna Kea Resort Area

Kawaihae & Around

North Kohala

Akoni Pule Highway

Hawi

Kapaʻau

Pololu Valley

Kohala Mountain Road

Waimea (Kamuela)

MAUNA KEA & SADDLE ROAD

Hiking Around Mauna Kea

Road Trip: Mauna Kea Access Road

Mauna Kea

Saddle Road

HAMAKUA COAST

Hiking & Cycling the Hamakua Coast

Road Trip: Hamakua Highlights

Honokaʻa

Waipiʻo Valley

Laupahoehoe

Hakalau & Around

Honomu

Pepe‘ekeo to Papaikou

HILO

Walking & Cycling Around Hilo

City Walk: Historic Downtown Hilo

PUNA

Keaʻau

Pahoa

Red Road

Kalapana Area

Kapoho Area

Lazy Days in Puna

HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Hiking in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Road Trip: Chain of Craters Road

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Volcano

KAʻU

Hiking Around Kaʻu

Pahala

Punaluʻu

Naʻalehu

South Point (Ka Lae)

Driving Tour: South Point Road

Ocean View & Around

Kahuku Unit

UNDERSTAND

History

People of the Big Island

Hawaiian Arts & Crafts

Lei

Landscapes & Wildlife

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Climate

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Health

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTQ Travelers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Visas

Work

Transportation

Getting There & Away

Arriving on the Big Island

Air

Sea

Getting Around

Car & Motorcycle

Bicycle

Bus

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Hawaiʻi, the Big Island

Growing up in Hilo, I took my island home for granted. Didn’t everyone wake to birdsong, and fall asleep under a pitch-dark sky with the rat-a-tat of rain pounding on their metal rooftop? Wasn’t everyone surrounded by an endless blue horizon and overloaded with too many homegrown bananas? Only when I explored Hawai’i as a writer did I finally appreciate the island’s uniqueness. The power of nature is palpable here – and the unpretentious local character is like no other. I love Hawai’i for its small-town heart.

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Hiking the Kilauea Iki Trail | MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Luci Yamamoto, Writer

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For more about our writers

Hawaiʻi, the Big Island’s Top Experiences

1VOLCANIC WONDERS

Less than a million years old, Hawai’i is a geological baby. Here you’ll find the Hawaiian Islands’ tallest, largest and only active volcanic mountains. When measured from the ocean floor, Mauna Kea is the world’s tallest mountain, but Mauna Loa (pictured above) is more massive. Kilauea was the world’s most active volcano from 1983 to 2018.

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MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

The Big Island’s premier attraction offers miles of hiking trails that traverse a timeline of flows. The terrain is fascinating and varied, from stark, rocky deserts to thriving rainforests full of native trees and birds.

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Kilauea Iki Trail | MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kazumura Cave

The visible lava terrain is only half the story. Underground, there’s an elaborate system of lava tubes, caves, and caverns. In the world’s longest and deepest lava tube, Kazumura Cave, near Volcano, experience utter darkness and silence.

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SHAUN BUSUTTIL/LONELY PLANET ©

Mauna Kea Stargazing

Breathless and breathtaking is the rarefied air of majestic Mauna Kea. Once the sun goes down, the stars come out. Mauna Kea, a highly sacred place to Native Hawaiians, is among the world’s best astronomical sites. Amateur stargazers, prepare to be impressed.

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Mauna Kea’s Summit Area | CHRIS FINCH PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2OCEAN ADVENTURES

What’s an island vacation without a good splash in the great Pacific? The Big Island boasts glassy waters and unusual underwater architecture thanks to geologically young, less-eroded lava rock. Ideal activities include snorkeling and diving. The plunge-worthy waters along Kona and South Kohala are most inviting.

Snorkeling in Kealakekua Bay

The hype is real: Kealakekua Bay is a giant, real-life aquarium of abundant tropical fish, honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and spinner dolphins. Respect the rules, such as limits on kayaks, to preserve this pristine bay.

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Snorkeling in Kealakekua Bay | JAMES R.D. SCOTT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Scuba diving in Kona

With healthy coral and teeming marine life, Kona waters offer phenomenal diving. Intrepid divers can brave a Black Water night tour that showcases glowing, bioluminescent pelagic creatures in their inky element.

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Scuba diver off the Kona Coast | OCEAN IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Whale-watching

If you’re a confirmed landlubber wishing for a ‘dry’ ocean experience, you’re in luck. During winter months, especially January to March, go sailing with friendly Captain Dan McSweeney. You’re sure to see humpback whales on their annual 6000-mile round-trip between Alaska and the Hawaiian Islands.

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Humpback whale | DIEGOJENNYFER22/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3BEACH HOPPING

Hawai’i’s beaches come in all shapes and sizes. For Hollywood-worthy white sand, target the coastline from South Kohala to South Kona. Venture beyond to find iconic Big Island beaches, marked by black sand, lava rock and rugged beauty. For convenience and safety, choose from many drive-up beaches. Less-crowded oases require 4WD and sweat.

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area

Go early to find a spot on this half-mile stretch of powdery white sand. Sunshine is almost guaranteed. Rent an A-frame cabin for the ultimate ‘oceanfront room.’

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Hapua BeachState Recreation Area | KRIS S/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kekaha Kai State Park

If you believe that effort heightens reward, you’ll love the Kekaha Kai beaches, with only one accessible by paved road. The three other gems require 4WD and trekking over rough lava rock.

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Kekaha Kai State Park | SYLVIO MICHEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Richardson’s Ocean Park

Sure, a vast stretch of white sand is impressive, but Hilo’s Richardson’s – low-key, family-friendly, multi-sport – will broaden your definition of an awesome beach.

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Richardson’s Ocean Park | CHRIS ALLAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4ANCIENT HAWAI’I

Ancient history looms large on Hawai’i, a place of powerful mana (spiritual essence). The first Polynesians landed at Ka Lae, ‘South Point,’ which is still windswept, raw and undeveloped. Kamehameha the Great, who unified the Hawaiian Islands, was born in Kohala and died in Kailua-Kona. Hula and oli (chant) are deep-rooted here, and Miloli’i in South Kona is likely the last remaining Hawaiian fishing village.

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

This ancient sanctuary, called ‘City of Refuge’ by longtime locals, once saved the lives of those who broke kapu (taboo). Stroll the former royal grounds and imagine old Hawai’i.

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Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park | MARK PITT IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Puako Petroglyph Preserve

With no written language, ancient Hawaiians relied on oral history, but they also created petroglyphs: pictures carved in lava rock. Find this large collection along an easy trail.

Lyman Museum & Mission House

Ground yourself in Hawai’i’s history at this diverse museum. Learn about the island’s geology, flora and fauna, ancient Hawaiian culture and plantation era.

Top Experiences

5LOCAVORE FARM TOURS

When Hawai’i’s last sugar companies closed in the mid-’90s, local agriculture underwent a paradigm shift – to small farms and diversified crops. It didn’t happen overnight. King Sugar was predominant in commercial agriculture, but independent farmers have succeeded in wide-ranging crops, from everyday produce to boutique items. In recent decades, spurred by the locavore movement and the tourist industry, some farmers have started offering tours of their working plantations.

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Cacao pods | SIRISAK_BAOKAEW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hawaiian Crown Chocolate Farm

Informative and affordable, this tour highlights the ‘tree to bar’ journey of cacao. After viewing a thriving plantation just outside Hilo, enjoy scrumptious samples of the end result.

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Fresh coffee beans | KARENMASSIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Mountain Thunder Coffee Plantation

Kona coffee garners premium prices because it’s unique. Discover why on a tour of this plantation. Bonus: you’ll roast your own half pound of beans to take home.

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Mountain Thunder Coffee Plantation | ORANGE GROVE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6LOCAL STREET FOOD

Eating is a veritable hobby across the Hawaiian Islands. Thanks to the multi-ethnic population, flavors are eclectic and often pack a punch. Don’t miss local street food, from Japanese-style bento boxes and piping-hot Portuguese malasadas to bowls of raw ahi poke. Eat now, diet later.

Loco Moco at Cafe 100

Is the whole greater than the sum of its parts? Yes for loco moco. Cafe 100, a popular drive-in in Hilo, offers wide-ranging mains to accompany rice and fried egg.

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Loco moco, Cafe 100 | GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET ©

Hawaiian Food at Super J’s

Don’t leave the island without trying Native Hawaiian foods, especially laulau (pork or chicken and salted butterfish, wrapped in taro and ti leaves and steamed) and poi (mashed taro) at family-run Super J’s in South Kona.

Shave Ice at Anuenue

This little counter in Kawaihae takes shave ice up a notch with innovative gourmet flavors.

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Shave ice | STANLEY WAI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

7SCENIC SHORT HIKES

Hiking opportunities abound on the Big Island. Fit trekkers can challenge themselves with steep cliffsides or jagged lava deserts, but many short hikes offer spectacular views and pleasant breaks from driving around the island. There’s no excuse not to exit the car, stretch the legs and breathe that island air. Arrive in early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday crowds.

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Pololu Valley | MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Waipi’o Valley

Green takes on new meaning in this stunning valley. Don’t stop at the lookout – descend the steep road to the valley floor (healthy knees required). A rugged black-sand beach awaits.

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Pololu Valley | DANNE_L/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pololu Valley

At the island’s northernmost tip, Pololu Valley offers tranquil remoteness. Only a zigzagging footpath (with countless splendid photo-ops) leads to the beach at the bottom.

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Black-sand beach at Waipiʻo Valley | MILAN VAN WEELDEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8ON THE ROAD

Thanks to its sheer size, Hawai’i has lots of legroom. Enjoy the delicious freedom of the open road. From east to west, the island has multiple personalities. Ten of the world’s dozen climate zones exist here, ensuring sensory variety as you circumnavigate the island. Take them all in. Don’t rush. Remember, the journey can be the main attraction.

Kohala Mountain Road

Unforgettable. From north to south, descending this two-lane road offers one stunning view after another: plush grassy fields, distant shores and Hawai’i’s other three volcanic mountains.

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Kohala Mountain Road, with Mauna Kea in the background | NORINORI303/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Saddle Road

Experience awe and humbleness as you navigate between formidable sister mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The scene is not eye-catching or Instagram-worthy, but it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before.

Pepe’ekeo 4-Mile Scenic Drive

Skip the highway and take the byway – through sultry tropical jungle, picturesque one-lane bridges, mini waterfalls and two fantastic roadside eateries.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

US dollar ($)

Language

English, Hawaiian, Pidgin

Visas

Generally not required for Canadians or for citizens of Visa Waiver Program countries for stays of 90 days or less with Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) pre-approval.

Money

Credit cards are accepted by most businesses and often required for reservations. ATMs are widely available.

Cell Phones

International travelers need a multiband GSM phone to make calls in the USA. Using a prepaid rechargeable SIM card is usually cheaper than using your home network. Coverage is good in major towns, but spotty or nonexistent in rural areas.

Time

Hawaii-Aleutian Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus 10 hours)

When to Go

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High Season (Dec–Mar & Jun–Aug)

A Accommodations up 50% to 100%.

A Especially busy around Christmas, New Year and Easter (Hilo’s Merrie Monarch Festival).

A Winter is rainy on the windward side.

A Summer is hot and relatively dry.

Shoulder (Apr–May & Nov)

A Moderate number of visitors, with decent prices on airfares and accommodations.

A Expect increased crowds and business closures around Thanksgiving Day.

A November kicks off the rainy season.

Low Season (Sep–Oct)

A Warm temperatures continue into fall.

A Crowds and prices drop after summer vacation and Labor Day.

A Kona is booked solid during the Ironman World Championship.

Useful Websites

Island of Hawai’i Visitors Bureau (www.gohawaii.com/islands/hawaii-big-island) The ‘official’ site, with essential info and inspiring Instagram photos.

Hawai’i Magazine (www.hawaiimagazine.com/section/hawaii-island) Good insider reporting on local personalities, trends, restaurants and more.

Konaweb (www.konaweb.com) Handy all-island news, events calendar and forums.

Love Big Island (www.lovebigisland.com) Online travel guide with readable, in-the-know travel tips on towns, activities, beaches, eats and more.

Big Island Guide (www.bigislandguide.com) Great photos for trip planning accompany basic info on sights, accommodations, restaurants etc.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/hawaii/hawaii-the-big-island) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than $150

A Hostel dorm bed: $30–40

A Hostel private room with shared bath: $80

A Plate lunch or poke bowl: $8–10

A Bus fare (one way): $2

A Stargazing on Mauna Kea: free

Midrange: $150–250

A Midrange hotel or B&B room: $125–175

A Rental car (excluding insurance and gas): from $35/175 per day/week

A Dinner at informal sit-down restaurant: $20–30

A Snorkeling tour: $100–150

Top End: More than $250

A Luxury resort or B&B room: $250 or more

A Three-course meal and cocktail: $75–100

A Guided outdoor adventure tour: $80–200

A Helicopter tour: $200–500

Opening Hours

Banks 8:30am–4pm Monday–Friday, some to 6pm Friday; 9am–noon or 1pm Saturday.

Bars and clubs Noon–midnight daily, some to 2am Friday and Saturday. Bars might close early if business is slow.

Businesses (general) and government offices 8:30am–4:30pm Monday–Friday, some post offices also 9am–noon Saturday.

Restaurants Breakfast 6–10am, lunch 11:30am–2pm, dinner 5–9:30pm. Hours vary by establishment, so check in advance.

Shops 9am–5pm Monday–Saturday, some also noon to 5pm Sunday; major shopping areas and malls keep extended hours.

Arriving on Hawai‘i, the Big Island

Car-rental booths for major agencies line the road outside the arrivals area at both airports. Taxis are curbside. Shuttle-bus services typically cost as much as taxis.

Hilo International Airport The approximate taxi fare from the airport to downtown is $20.

Kona International Airport From the airport to Kailua-Kona a taxi costs $30 and to Waikoloa the cost is $55. Speedi Shuttle will get you to destinations up and down the Kona Coast; it costs $34/100 for a shared/private shuttle to Kailua-Kona and $55/170 to the Waikoloa resort area. Book in advance.

For information on getting around

What’s New

The biggest, youngest Hawaiian Island is ever in flux. Mercurial lava action has forever changed island geography and residential life, while controversial Mauna Kea stewardship has taken center stage. What is pono – good, moral, right – for the island? Locals are seeking ways to safeguard their island, from sustainable farming to affordable housing.

Mercurial Pele

Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes, is impossible to pin down. In 2018 she burst in spectacular fury in Puna, destroying 700 homes and forever changing prime coastline – and then ceased all lava flows. An active eruption is exciting to see, but its aftermath is also memorable. Spend an afternoon visiting Puna’s newly forming black-sand beaches: the ‘baby’ beach developing at Isaac Hale Beach Park and New Kaimu Beach (c 1990). And then party with locals at Uncle Robert’s Wednesday Night Market.

Halemaʻumaʻu’s Crater Lake

Have we witnessed the birth of a crater lake? In July 2019, a year after Halemaʻumaʻu’s lava lake drained and collapsed, a wee green patch appeared on the crater floor. Within weeks, it proved indeed to be a ‘baby’ lake, a first in recorded history for Kilauea volcano.

Bikeshare in Kona & Hilo

For short trips in town, hop onto a bright-blue shared bike. Peoples Advocacy for Trails Hawaii (PATH) started a bikeshare program in Kailua-Kona in 2016 and three years later expanded to Hilo. For details on prices and locations, see https://hawaiiislandbikeshare.org.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE BIG ISLAND

Luci Yamamoto, Lonely Planet writer

On the surface, life on the island is stable. But underlying this normalcy are divergent views on land use and island stewardship. The conflict over the Thirty Metre Telescope (TMT) on Mauna Kea (173) exemplifies the opposing priorities among Native Hawaiians, business leaders, the government and environmental activists. How can compromise be found?

Conflicts over land use point to the overarching question of identity. Since statehood in 1959, plantation culture has driven the island’s identity. But the plantation generation is elderly and won’t be around in a couple of decades. Also, the relatively affordable Big Island is experiencing steady growth. What will shape island identity then? Will local culture – food, traditions, pidgin English – thrive when the population includes fewer kamaʻaina (a person born and raised or a longtime resident in Hawaii)?

Most residents agree that the island should be less dependent on imports, especially food. Yet larger-scale farming – necessary for food security – is hamstrung by long-standing governmental alliances and regulations, or by environmental complaints. Smaller-scale farming is ideal for organic produce and goat cheese, but won’t get locals out of Walmart and Safeway.

More Microbreweries

The craft beer movement is alive and kicking islandwide. In Kailua-Kona, Ola Brew Co, which opened in December 2017, offers beers and hard ciders – and a lively space serving island-style pub grub. In Waimea, Big Island Brewhaus & Taqueria is your ticket for flavorful brews plus filling Mexican fare. Longtime favorites Kona Brewing Company and Hilo Brewing Company continue to produce – sample a variety at Hilo’s Temple Craft Beer & Wine Bar, a hip addition to the sparse downtown scene. Avid beer fans, mark your calendar for the Kona Brewers Festival in March.

Bean to Bar Chocolate

Although cacao has been grown on Hawaiʻi for decades, only recently has it been grown commercially and made into chocolate. In Hilo, Hawaiian Crown Plantation & Chocolate Factory is tiny and unassuming, but teems with excellent dark chocolate, cacao nibs and brewing cocoa. Tours of its nearby farm make for an affordable, informative hour. In Papaikou, just north of Hilo, Hamakua Chocolate offers more elaborate tours that include chocolate-making workshops in a gorgeous plantation setting.

Mauna Lani Renovated

In January 2020, the iconic Mauna Lani resort in South Kohala reopened after a 14-month, $200-million renovation. Founded in 1983, the resort, which sits on ancient fishponds and petroglyphs, is known for its commitment to preserve Hawaiian culture and natural resources. In addition to updated rooms, the resort now offers three swimming pools and more shops and restaurants. (Don’t worry, fans, the resort’s much-loved CanoeHouse is still dishing up fantastic oceanfront dinners.)

Last Dairy Standing

Until the early 1980s, 150 dairies statewide produced most milk consumed in the Hawaiian Islands. Today Cloverleaf Dairy in Hawi, North Kohala, is the only cattle dairy statewide. Virtually all milk sold across the archipelago is imported from the mainland. To support local milk, buy a jug at KTA Super Stores (look for the Mountain Apple house label).

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news: www.lonelyplanet.com/hawaii

Big Island Hikes (www.bigislandhikes.com) Dozens of hikes are reviewed, with firsthand accounts and helpful tips.

Big Island Music News (www.bigislandmusic.net) Up-to-date source on concerts, plus interviews with top local musicians.

Amateur Traveler (https://amateurtraveler.com/travel-to-the-big-island) Circle the island with this travel podcaster and a local guide.

NigaHiga on YouTube (www.youtube.com/user/nigahiga) The comedy of Hilo native Ryan Higa, a YouTube sensation, reveals local attitudes and millennial sensibilities.

Insta @hawaiivolcanoesnps Shots of hiking trails, lava flows, wildlife and more to pique your curiosity.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Ube (purple yam) foodstuff

Average Annual Wage $42,650

Number of active volcanoes on Hawai’i 3

Pop 201,000

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Poke Today

If you’ve tried only mainland poke, prepare to be impressed. Real Hawaiian poke is unmistakable, featuring strong flavors, local ingredients, generous portions and couldn’t-be-fresher fish. Don’t miss Hilo newcomer Poke Market, a hole-in-the-wall serving scrumptious poke bowls with healthy sides, such as mashed purple sweet potato and fresh greens.

Accommodations

Find more accommodation reviews throughout the On the Road chapters

PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with private bathroom in high season. Unless otherwise stated, taxes aren’t included.

$ less than $150

$$ $150 to $250

$$$ more than $250

Accommodation Types

Hotels & resorts For full-time staff, daily housekeeping and dining on site, stay at a hotel. If seeking a luxurious stay with prime beach access, choose a high-end resort along the leeward ‘Gold Coast.’

Condos & vacation rental houses For independent travelers seeking apartment-style amenities, condos are ideal, especially for longer stays. Most include separate bedroom(s), full kitchen and washer/dryer, but they are privately owned and vary widely in quality. Vacation rental houses offer more space; avoid those without county permits.

B&Bs & inns Ranging from simple rooms to fancy suites, these small-scale, owner-occupied accommodations are generally reliable; a multi-night stay is often required. Owners prefer direct bookings, so avoid using mega search engines.

Hostels Budget travelers can find decent hostels around the island. Dorm beds offer the most savings, while private rooms are often not much cheaper than staying at a budget hotel.

Camping & cabins There are enough good campgrounds to circumnavigate the island with a tent. Low-cost campsites and budget cabins at national, state and county parks; bring your own camping gear.

Best Places to Stay

Best on a Budget

Prefer not to blow your budget on an oceanfront suite? No worries, you can find economical digs islandwide at hostels, standard hotels and indie B&Bs. To catch a great deal, plan ahead and travel during low season. If camping is an option, you can save a bundle, but you’ll need a permit.

A A-Frame Cabins, Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area , near Puako

A Keolamauloa , Honoka’a

A Alii Kane Cottages , Volcano

A Manago Hotel , Captain Cook

A Arnott’s Lodge , Hilo

A Pineapple Park , Captain Cook

Best for Families

Around the Big Island, families will find kid-friendly options mainly at hotels and resorts – or at condos for homey amenities. If you’re here for sun and sand, stay in South Kohala or in Kona. For convenient shopping and eating, locate yourself close to a sizable town.

A Volcano House , Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

A Lotus Garden Hilo

A Waikoloa Beach Marriott , Waikoloa

A Waimea Gardens , Waimea

A Dolphin Bay Hotel , Hilo

A Four Seasons Resort Hualalai , Kaʻupulehu

Best for Solo Travelers

Solo travelers can find rooms for one person at hotels, B&Bs and inns often at a discount. If seeking social interaction, bunk at a hostel or choose a B&B that includes breakfast with other guests. For sheer solitude, find a safe campsite and commune with nature.

A Kama‘aina Inn , Hilo

A Akiko’s Buddhist B&B , Hakalau

A Pakalana Inn , Hilo

A Kirpal Meditation & Ecological Center , Red Road, Puna

A Camp Hoʻokena , Hoʻokena

A My Hawaii Hostel , Kailua-Kona

Best B&Bs

B&B options run the gamut from luxurious suites to simple rooms in a family home. The ‘breakfast’ part usually means a hot meal served during set hours, but might mean a picnic basket of fixings (fruit, baked goods, coffee etc). It’s best to stay at B&Bs with county permits; inquire before booking.

A Kalaekilohana , South Point (Ka Lae)

A Aloha Junction , Volcano

A Kane Plantation , Honaunau

A Waipi’o Wayside B&B , Honoka’a

A Hilo Bay Hale , Hilo

A Kaʻawa Loa Plantation & Guesthouse , Captain Cook

Booking

Accommodation rates are based on availability, which ebbs and flows by season. Expect to pay top dollar from mid-December to mid-April, which is high season. Book well in advance during the Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo and the Ironman Triathlon in Kona.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/hotels) Find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay – and then book them online.

Hawaiian Beach Rentals (www.hawaiianbeachrentals.com) Vacation rentals islandwide at all price points, from magnificent villas to family-friendly condos. Rates from $120 to several grand per night.

Kona Coast Vacations (www.konacoastvacations.com) For rentals along the Kona Coast, this locally owned agency has over 200 listings. Rates from $100 to $1000.

Two Papayas (www.2papayas.com) Comprehensive list of rental homes in Puako, a residential beach community. Family-owned agency offers a personal touch.

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Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Ka’upulehu | THOMAS BARRAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Camping Permits

To camp at national, state and local parks, you must book permits in advance with the Hawaii Department of Land & Natural Resources. Nonresident fees are $18 per campsite for up to six people ($3 for each additional person), $50 per A-frame shelter and $80 to $90 per cabin.

Getting Around

For more information, see Transportation

How to Get Around

Let’s face it. Hawai’i is a car-dependent place. Without your own set of wheels, you’ll be limited in seeing much of the Big Island. Towns are spread out and far flung. Unless you limit yourself to town limits, you’ll be hoofing it for miles, probably in beating sun or pouring rain.

Almost always, a standard car is fine. The once-notorious Saddle Road is now paved and safe enough for all cars. Off-road driving is prohibited by most car rental companies even for 4WD vehicles.

The county bus is inexpensive and reliable, but service is limited. It’s useful mainly for cross-island travel; for example, residents might ride the bus to commute to work on the opposite side of the island. Service routes and frequency are minimal, so getting around by bus would be extremely time-consuming.

While cycling along the Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy is an iconic image, it’s done primarily for sport rather than for daily transport. Getting around by bicycle verges on possible, but only for very fit, enthusiastic cyclists. Weather conditions are challenging, and roads have no shoulders for bikes.

TOP DRIVING TIPS

A You can find basic maps in the free tourist brochures (such as This Week Big Island ) at the airport and other visitor hubs. Sturdier maps with more particulars (for example, on topography, geology or marine life) are also available.

A Map apps are handy for finding places. If you use voice navigation, note that routes given can be meandering and inefficient – with woefully mispronounced Hawaiian street names.

A Instead of compass directions, locals typically give directions based on mauka (toward the mountains) and makai (toward the ocean). You might also hear place-based directions, such as ‘Hamakua side’ (toward Hamakua).

A Give a shaka (thank-you wave) if someone lets you merge.

Car Rental

Renting a car on the Big Island is no different from doing so anywhere in the USA. Most agencies require you to be at least 25 years old, to possess a valid driver’s license and to have a major credit card.

If you lack one of these requirements, the major car rental companies will probably turn you away. But an independent agency might circumvent the usual protocols as follows:

A They might rent to drivers between the ages of 21 and 24, typically for an underage surcharge of about $25 per day.

A Without a credit card, they might accept prepayment by cash, debit card or traveler’s check, with an additional refundable deposit of about $500 per week and proof of return airfare.

Note that cars are prohibited in certain areas: You can’t drive a standard vehicle down the steep road to Waipiʻo Valley, for example. Only one company, Harper Car & Truck Rentals, will permit their 4WD vehicles on the Mauna Kea Access Rd to the summit.

No Car?

Bus

If determined and patient, you can circumnavigate the Big Island on the Hele-On Bus. On the ground, you can walk or rent a bike for local transportation. But service is limited, especially on Sunday and holidays. Most buses originate from the Moʻoheau Bus Terminal in downtown Hilo.

A one-way adult fare is $2 and includes a free two-hour transfer. Children under four years old ride free with a fare-paying passenger. Always check the website for current routes, schedules and fares.

Bicycle

Avid cyclists sometimes bring their bikes to train here, but not for actual transportation around the island. Contending with the elements, distances and the unsafe road conditions would leave no time or energy to do anything else.

That said, bicycling within towns is a feasible green option, especially if based in Hilo or Kailua-Kona for a week or more. Reliable bike rental and repair shops include Bike Works in Kailua-Kona and Mid-Pacific Wheels in Hilo.

DRIVING FAST FACTS

A Drive on the right.

A On highways, the speed limit is 55mph at most.

A The statewide blood alcohol concentration limit is 0.08%.

A Use child safety seats for kids aged three and under – and booster seats for kids four to seven.

A It is illegal to talk or text on a cell phone while driving.

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Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Merrie Monarch Festival, March or April

Kona Coffee Cultural Festival, November

Ironman Triathlon World Championship, October

KWXX Ho’olaulea, September

Waimea Ukulele & Slack Key Guitar Institute Concert, November

January

Although typically the rainiest and coolest month, January is tourist high season, when snowbirds migrate to escape winter elsewhere. Expect business closures around the New Year.

February

Peak tourist season continues, with weekends around Valentines’ Day (February 14) and Presidents Day (third Monday) likely booked out at popular accommodations.

z Waimea Cherry Blossom Heritage Festival

Pink sakura (cherry blossoms) bring Japan to Hawaiʻi. Enjoy taiko drumming, mochi (sticky rice cake) pounding and picturesque sakura on the first Saturday in February.

March

Weather improves and tourist traffic remains high, especially when students go on ‘spring break’ at the end of the month.

6 Kona Brewers Festival

This beer fest on the second Saturday of March keeps getting bigger and better. Sip dozens of handcrafted beers from Hawaii and mainland brewers.

April

Tourist high season winds down – and showers decrease. But Hilo’s busiest week starts at Easter, when the Merrie Monarch Festival opens.

z Merrie Monarch Festival

Hilo’s most important event is a weeklong celebration of Hawaiian arts and culture, starting on Easter Sunday. This Olympics of hula competitions draws premier halau (schools) from across Hawaii.

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Merrie Monarch Festival | EMILY RIDDELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

3 Laupahoehoe Music Festival

In late April, this all-day event at Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park features authentic Hawaiian music and hula, plus handicrafts and lots to eat.

May

Crowds thin and prices typically drop between spring break and summer vacation. Temperatures are mild and sunny. Hotels sell out for the Memorial Day holiday weekend in late May.

z May Day Lei Day Festival

This statewide cultural festival kicks off on May 1 (Lei Day) at Kalakaua Park in downtown Hilo (see masterful lei on display) and continues with live music and hula at Hilo’s handsome Palace Theater.

June

Beat the summer rush by arriving in early June, when visitors can expect warm, dry weather and good deals on hotels and flights.

z North Kohala Kamehameha Day Celebration

On June 11, a state holiday, join the crowds at King Kamehameha’s birthplace in North Kohala for a flowery parade, arts-and-crafts fair, live music and food booths. More events take place on Mokuola (Coconut Island) in Hilo.

z Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park Cultural Festival

This one-day festival, held in summer between June and August, draws crowds to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park to celebrate Hawaiian culture with lei- and basket-making demonstrations, hula dancing and even nose-flute jam sessions.

July

Temperatures soar and showers are less frequent. School summer vacations and the Independence Day holiday make July a peak travel month. Book early and expect steeper prices.

z Fourth of July Rodeo

Held on the historic Parker Ranch, this annual event packs in paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) and their fans for team roping, horse racing and other yee-haw fun.

August

Families on vacation keep things busy. Expect hot, sunny weather, especially on the Kona side. Statehood Day is a holiday observed on the third Friday of the month.

2 Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament

Kailua-Kona is the epicenter of big-game fishing, and this is the granddaddy of tournaments, held in late July or early August. Watch the weighing of the catch at Kailua Pier.

September

After a hectic Labor Day weekend in early September, crowds dwindle as families and students bid farewell to summer. Weather remains hot and relatively dry.

2 Queen Lili’uokalani Canoe Race

Traditional outrigger canoeing is a favorite local sport, and fall is the season for long-distance events. Labor Day weekend kicks off a series of races, including this one, along the Kona Coast.

5 A Taste of the Hawaiian Range

This popular foodie gala in Waikoloa is your ticket to sample gourmet bites of local meats and produce prepared by notable island chefs. Held in late September or early October.

3 KWXX Ho’olaulea

Downtown Hilo throws a huge block party on the last Saturday of September. Free live music by popular local artists.

October

October is booked solid with Ironman visitors along the Kona Coast. But elsewhere around the island, tourist traffic is moderate. Weather is mild, although rainfall picks up on the windward side.

2 Ironman Triathlon World Championship

This legendary triathlon is the ultimate endurance contest, combining a 2.4-mile ocean swim, 112-mile bike race and 26.2-mile marathon in Kailua-Kona on the second Saturday of October.

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Ironman Triathlon World Championship | ALAN C. HEISON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Hawaii International Film Festival

Although the hot spot for the state’s film festival (www.hiff.org) is Honolulu, highlights among the 200-plus Asian-, Polynesian- and Hawaii-produced films are shown at theaters around the Big Island.

November

Prices are reasonable during the first half of November, but Thanksgiving on the fourth Thursday of the month is a busy and pricey time to visit. Rainfall can be heavy.

5 Kona Coffee Cultural Festival

Celebrate Kona’s signature brew during the harvest season with 10 days of coffee tastings, farm tours, cultural events and a cupping competition in early November.

3 Moku O Keawe

This three-day dance festival in early November brings together hula troupes from Hawaii, Japan and the US mainland for competitions, workshops and a crafts-and-clothing market, all in Waikoloa.

3 Waimea Ukulele & Slack Key Guitar Institute Concert

Aspiring musicians can study with Hawaii’s foremost musicians in mid-November during three days of workshops, while everyone can enjoy their legendary concerts and kanikapila (jam sessions).

December

Peak tourist season kicks off in mid-December, and the rainy season continues. The Christmas to New Year holiday period is always booming. Book well in advance and expect to pay top dollar.

Itineraries

Gold Coast

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4 DAYS

If you’re craving sun, sand and surf, the Gold Coast is your place. Enjoy a variety of beaches, from drive-up favorites to remote, 4WD-only spots. In between, explore ancient Hawaiian sites and the world-renowned Kona Coffee Belt.

After landing in Kailua-Kona, beat jet lag at easy-access Kahaluʻu Beach Park, where you might see honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles). Later, explore Puʻuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, an ancient ‘Place of Refuge,’ and admire your first island sunset. The next day, cruise or kayak to snorkel in Kealakekua Bay, unparalleled for fascinating marine life. Cool off in upcountry Holualoa, once a coffee village, now a thriving arts community.

For R&R on day three, bask in the rays at Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area or splurge on golf or spa treatment at a South Kohala resort. Wind down at Brown’s Beach House, where impeccable cuisine and oceanfront ambience take dinner to another level. On your last day, adventurers can rent a 4WD to explore a lineup of sandy beauties at Kekaha Kai State Park. Feeling laid-back? Snag a hotel parking spot and relax at picturesque Mauna Kea Beach.

Itineraries

Kona to Hilo Loop

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10 DAYS

Can’t decide between West and East Hawai’i? Do both. To go cross-island, navigate the coastal Hamakua Coast one way and, for contrast, return via Saddle Road.

Start in sunny Kailua-Kona with a day or two enjoying ocean sports, such as bodyboarding at Magic Sands Beach or snorkeling at Kahaluʻu Beach. Between dips, ground yourself in island history at Huliheʻe Palace, where Hawaiian royalty vacationed.

Then meander up the South Kohala Coast, stopping for a short rocky walk to the Puako Petroglyph Preserve and to Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area for an archetypal beach day. By evening, relax at an oceanfront resort bar – or simply witness the glorious sunset.

Next, go rustic in Waimea, a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town, and Hawi, amid rolling hills blanketed with green pastures. Eating options abound in these towns. Make your way into Pololu Valley, where each little switchback presents another magnificent view.

Now head to Honokaʻa, a historic town now known for niche crops, a strong local community and irresistible malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) at Tex Drive-In. Work off those doughnuts by descending (and later ascending) the steep road into Waipiʻo Valley. Along the Hamakua Coast, envision ‘plantation days’ at the Laupahoehoe Train Museum, a mini gallery archiving the island’s once-stupendous railroads.

Settle now in Hilo, the untouristy capital seat, with a charming historic downtown. Splash with the tots at Onekahakaha Beach Park or look for honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) at Richardson’s Ocean Park. Raining? Duck in and out of shops and museums downtown. From Hilo, take a day trip or two to Puna, cruising through sultry tropical jungles. Don’t miss Uncle Robert’s Wednesday Night Market for a truly local experience.

End your visit with Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, a veritable jackpot for hikers and nature lovers. Don’t miss the impressive collection at Volcano Art Center and the farmers market on Sunday. Finally return to Kona via Saddle Road.

Itineraries

Circle Island Tour

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2 WEEKS

To get your arms around Hawai’i, you need at least two weeks. Only with enough time can you absorb the island’s sheer diversity of terrain, climate and culture.

Unwind for a couple of nights in South Kona, with its easygoing village pace and lush scenery. While here, explore the breathtaking marine life in Kealakekua Bay and go retro by feasting on pork chops or fried ‘opelu (pan-sized mackerel scad) at Manago Restaurant.

Go south into Ka’u, where you can go spelunking with expert guides in the Kula Kai Caverns. Stop at Ka Lae, the southernmost point in the USA, and brave whipping winds and rugged terrain

Reviews for Lonely Planet Hawaii the Big Island

[nicole_a_davis · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

This was a very easy to use and very handy book to travel with. The color-coded chapters made it easy to find the section you needed. Each chapter on a region gave a good overview and a variety of activities and restaurants and hotels, making it appealing for many sorts of travelers. A few of the maps had place mis-located but those were minor mistakes. Their reviews and recommendations for the best places to see, eat and stay were usually right on.