Lonely Planet New Zealand's North Island 6

By Brett Atkinson

Lonely Planet’s New Zealand’s North Island is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Experience Pacific Island culture, black-water raft or explore trendy Wellington; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of the North Island and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s New Zealand’s North Island Travel Guide:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

What's New feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas our writers have uncovered

NEW Accommodation feature gathers all the information you need to plan your accommodation

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 75 maps 

Covers Auckland, Bay of Islands & Northland, Coromandel Peninsula & the Waikato, Taranaki & Whanganui, Taupo & the Ruapehu Region, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty, the East Coast, Wellington

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s New Zealand’s North Island, our most comprehensive guide to New Zealand’s North Island, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s New Zealand for a comprehensive look at all the country has to offer.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Dec 1, 2021
• ISBN: 9781838692575

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

New Zealand’s North Island (Te Ika-a-Māui)

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to the North Island

North Island’s Top 15

Need to Know

First Time

What’s New

Accommodation

Getting Around

If You Like

Month by Month

Itineraries

Hiking

Outdoor Activities

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

AUCKLAND REGION

Auckland

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Hauraki Gulf Islands

Rangitoto & Motutapu Islands

Waiheke Island

Rotoroa Island

Tiritiri Matangi Island

Kawau Island

Great Barrier Island

West Auckland

Titirangi

Karekare

Piha

Te Henga (Bethells Beach)

Kumeū Region

Muriwai Beach

Helensville

North Auckland

Shakespear Regional Park

Orewa

Puhoi

Mahurangi & Scandrett Regional Parks

Warkworth

Matakana

Leigh

BAY OF ISLANDS & NORTHLAND

Whangārei District

Mangawhai

Waipu, Langs Beach & Uretiti

Whangārei

Whangārei Heads

Tutukaka Coast & the Poor Knights Islands

Bay of Islands

Russell

Kawakawa

Paihia

Kerikeri

The Far North

Matauri & Tauranga Bays

Whangaroa Harbour

Mangonui & Doubtless Bay

Karikari Peninsula

Cape Reinga & Ninety Mile Beach

Kaitāia

Ahipara

Hokianga

Kohukohu

Rawene

Opononi & Omapere

Kauri Coast

Waipoua Forest

Trounson Kauri Park

Baylys Beach

Dargaville

Matakohe

WAIKATO & THE COROMANDEL PENINSULA

Waikato

Hamilton

Raglan

South of Raglan

Te Awamutu

Cambridge

Matamata

Te Aroha

King Country

Kāwhia

Ōtorohanga

Waitomo Caves

South from Waitomo to Taranaki

Te Kuiti

Pio Pio, Awakino & Mōkau

Taumarunui

Owhango

Coromandel Peninsula

Miranda

Thames

Coastal Route from Thames to Coromandel Town

Coromandel Town

Far North Coromandel

Coromandel Town to Whitianga

Whitianga

Coroglen & Whenuakite

Hahei

Hot Water Beach

Tairua & Pauanui

Whangamatā

Waihi & Waihi Beach

Paeroa

TARANAKI & WHANGANUI

New Plymouth

Around New Plymouth

Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park) & Around

Surf Highway 45

Whanganui

Whanganui National Park

Palmerston North

Around Palmerston North

TAUPō & THE RUAPEHU REGION

Lake Taupō Region

Taupō

Tūrangi

Ruapehu Region

Tongariro National Park

Whakapapa Village

National Park Village

Ōhakune

Waiouru

ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY

Rotorua

Sights

Activities

Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Rotorua Lakes

Bay of Plenty

Tauranga

Mt Maunganui

Papamoa

Katikati

Whakatāne

Ōhope

Ōpōtiki

THE EAST COAST

East Cape

Pacific Coast Highway

Gisborne

South of Gisborne

Te Urewera

Hawke’s Bay

Wairoa & Around

Napier

Hastings & Havelock North

Cape Kidnappers

Central Hawke’s Bay

Kaweka & Ruahine Ranges

WELLINGTON REGION

Wellington

Sights

Activities

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Kāpiti Coast

Paekākāriki

Paraparaumu

Waikanae

The Wairarapa

Martinborough

Greytown

Masterton & Around

Understand

Understand New Zealand

History

Environment

Māori Culture

The Arts

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Climate

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTQI+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Entering the Country

Air

Sea

GETTING AROUND

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Train

Language

Glossary

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

The economic and social impacts of COVID-19 (coronavirus) will continue to be felt long after the virus has been contained. Many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide will have experienced restrictions leading to loss of customers, income and employees; some will unfortunately have closed their doors permanently. For updates and travel advice, see articles at lonelyplanet.com, in addition to government travel advisories.

Welcome to the North Island

With multicultural cities and immersion in Māori culture, plus islands, beaches, kauri forests and glowworm caves, you’re going to want to migrate once you’ve spent some time on the North Island.

Geological Thrills

Welcome to one of the planet’s youngest countries in geological terms. Ascend the volcanic cones surrounding Auckland for superb city views, before heading south to Rotorua for hot mud spa treatments and helicopter journeys to the jagged mountain summit of Mt Tarawera. Journey due south to Lake Taupo, the legacy of one of the planet’s biggest-ever volcanic eruptions, and now gateway to Tongariro National Park. Ski or snowboard on Mt Ruapehu’s precipitous slopes, or negotiate a steady path past Mt Ngauruhoe’s brooding cone on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Māori Culture

The influence of New Zealand’s indigenous culture is more keenly felt in Te Ika-a-Māui (the North Island), where Māori make up a much higher percentage of the population than in the south. Across the North Island you’re more likely to hear the Māori language being spoken, see main street marae (meeting houses), join in a hāngi (Māori earth-cooked feast), or catch a performance with traditional Māori songs, dancing and a blood-curdling haka (war dance). The North Island’s East Cape, Northland and Rotorua are all cultural hotspots.

Outdoor Experiences

The South Island usually steals the attention, but the North Island also features a sublime combination of forests, mountains and beaches – where the North has a clear lead, particularly in subtropical Northland and the Bay of Islands, the Coromandel Peninsula, plus the west coast, with its surf beaches. Tackle one of the Great Walks – one even offers a river journey by canoe – or spend a few hours wandering through the accessible wilderness of the Coromandel. Day trips from Auckland include kayaking to dormant volcanoes or canyoning and abseiling down forested waterfalls.

Food, Wine & Beer

The country’s food was once a bland echo of a British Sunday lunch, but these days NZ chefs dip into New World culinary oceans for inspiration, especially the Pacific with its abundant seafood and diverse cuisines. Don’t go home without trying Māori faves: paua (abalone), kina (sea urchin) and kumara (sweet potato). Thirsty? NZ’s cool-climate wineries have been collecting trophies for decades, and its vineyard restaurants are seriously good. A booming craft-beer scene also deserves scrutiny, and with a firmly entrenched coffee culture, you’re never far from a perfect brew.

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Tongariro National Park | MARIDAV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love the North Island

By Brett Atkinson, Writer

Born in Rotorua and now a proud resident of Auckland, I’ve been exploring the North Island with friends and family for most of my life. Favourite places include the bush, beaches and hidden coves of the Coromandel Peninsula, the wine and food scenes of Hawke’s Bay, and the rugged and remote volcanic landscapes of Tongariro National Park. For craft beer, coffee and culture, the national capital of Wellington is always appealing, and Auckland’s growing ethnic diversity and cosmopolitan vibe make me proud to live in NZ’s most exciting city.

For more, see our writers

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The North Island’s Top 15

Coromandel Peninsula

A beautiful finger of land that combines sweeping beaches, quirky coastal landscapes and rugged bush-clad mountains, the Coromandel Peninsula is the perfect escape from the energy of Auckland. The area’s hippie and alternative-lifestyle roots linger, with organic farms and various spiritual retreats. Well-marked and sometimes challenging trails criss-cross the peninsula’s mountainous spine. Other options for adventure include sea kayaking around Cathedral Cove (pictured), followed by a natural spa pool at nearby Hot Water Beach.

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SHAUN JEFFERS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tongariro National Park

At the centre of the North Island, Tongariro National Park presents an awe-inspiring landscape of alpine desert punctuated by three smouldering volcanoes. Often rated as one of the world’s best single-day wilderness walks, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing skirts the base of two mountains and provides views of craters, coloured lakes and the vast Central Plateau. The DOC has limited visitor numbers per day, so book early. And, there are numerous other options to explore this alien scene.

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Mt Ngauruhoe and Red Crater | ANNA GORIN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Hawke’s Bay Wine Country

Wine has been crafted in the Hawke’s Bay region since 1851, with dozens of vineyards now joining famous longstanding local wineries such as Mission Estate and Church Road. The emphasis is on excellent Bordeaux-style reds and chardonnay, and many wineries also include excellent vineyard restaurants as well as estate tours. Farmers markets, craft breweries and other gourmet and artisan producers make this region a magnet for foodie travellers, and smart lodge and B&B accommodation caters to them while taking advantage of gorgeous rural and coastal locations.

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JSVIDEOS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Wellington

One of the coolest little capitals in the world, windy Wellington is also synonymous with cinema, thanks to local boy Peter Jackson. Residents are also proud of its vibrant arts-and-music scene and special-events schedule (from Fringe to WOW); plus dining choices that range from innovative food trucks to high-end gastronomy. But for visitors to the capital, the proximity to mountain biking and walking trails, not to mention a glistening harbour front, scores just as highly. Don’t miss it.

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ELENA YAKUSHEVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Hauraki Gulf

A yachtie’s paradise, the island-studded Hauraki Gulf is Auckland’s aquatic playground, sheltering its harbour and east-coast bays, and providing ample excuse for the City of Sails’ pleasure fleet to breeze into action. Despite the busy maritime traffic, the gulf has its own resident pods of whales and dolphins. Rangitoto Island is an icon of the city: its near-perfect volcanic cone provides the backdrop for many a tourist snapshot. With beautiful beaches, acclaimed wineries and upmarket eateries, Waiheke is Auckland’s most popular island escape.

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MARK MEREDITH / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Urban Auckland

Held in the embrace of two harbours and built on the remnants of long-extinct volcanoes, Auckland isn’t your average metropolis. It’s regularly rated one of the world’s most liveable cities, and with some recent regeneration projects, its star is in the ascendant. Auckland is also blessed with good beaches, flanked by wine regions, and it has a large enough population to support a thriving dining, drinking and live-music scene. Cultural festivals are celebrated with gusto in this ethnically diverse city, which has the world’s largest Pacific Islander population.

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Sky Tower. Architect: Craig Craig Moller Ltd | PHIL HABER PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Waitomo Caves

Waitomo is a must-see – an astonishing maze of subterranean caves, canyons and rivers perforating the northern King Country limestone. Black-water rafting is the big lure here (similar to white-water rafting, but through a dark cave), plus glowworm grottoes, underground abseiling, and more stalactites and stalagmites than you’ll ever see in one place again. Above ground, Waitomo township is a quaint village, but don’t linger in the sunlight – it’s party time downstairs.

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OLIVER STREWE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Geothermal Rotorua

The first thing you’ll notice about Rotorua is the sulphuric smell – but volcanic by-products have been one of the main draws since tourism began here in the 1880s: gushing geysers, bubbling mud, boiling pools of mineral-rich water… The other key draw: the many cultural experiences, curated and run by local Māori where you can learn about Aotearoa from its First Nations. Expect everything here from hāngi and hot springs to mountain biking and luging in this tourism playground.

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Champagne Pool, Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland | IAN WOOLCOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Bay of Islands

Turquoise waters lapping in pretty bays, dolphins frolicking at the bows of boats, pods of orcas gliding gracefully by – the chances are these are the kinds of images that drew you to New Zealand in the first place, and these are exactly the kinds of experiences that the Bay of Islands delivers in spades. There are myriad options to tempt you out on the water to explore the 150-odd islands that dot this beautiful bay. Landlubbers will relish the rich maritime history as successions of visitors arrived on these shores.

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BY WILDESTANIMAL / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Māori Culture

New Zealand’s Māori culture is both accessible and engaging: join in a haka (war dance); chow down at a traditional hāngi (Māori feast cooked in the ground); carve a pendant from bone or pounamu (jade); learn some te reo Māori; or check out an authentic cultural performance with song, dance, legends, arts and crafts. Big-city and regional museums around NZ are crammed with Māori artefacts and historical items, but this is truly a living culture: vibrant, potent and contemporary.

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FRANS LEMMENS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

East Cape

Get right off the beaten track in NZ’s easternmost region, a twisting and turning coastal procession of isolated bays and coves, many punctuated during summer with the crimson blooms of the pōhutukawa tree. Nowhere else in NZ is everyday Māori culture and society quite so evident, with quiet villages and marae (Māori meeting places) tucked into sleepy bays. Several East Cape tour operations are run by members of the local Ngāti Porou iwi, providing the opportunity for educational interaction with travellers.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL SCHWAB / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Art Deco Napier

Art Deco lovers add Napier to your NZ must-do list. Courtesy of a 1931 earthquake that pretty much levelled the place, the town was rebuilt from scratch in one style. Its handsome streets are dotted with splendidly preserved examples of the style with unique Kiwi motifs, now housing cool new restaurants, hotels, shops and galleries. Even better, book your trip for their February festival, featuring music, food, wine, vintage cars and costumes.

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ELLEN RYAN / LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

Whanganui National Park

After frantic jetboating or river rafting in other parts of the North Island, slow right down with a canoe or kayak trip down the history-making Whanganui River in the gloriously isolated Whanganui National Park. Snaking 329km from its source on Mt Tongariro to the Tasman Sea, it’s the country’s longest navigable river, tracking carefully through brooding native bush scattered with the remains of historical villages and trading stops. If you’re more keen on a driving holiday, the spidery Whanganui River Rd is equally spectacular.

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OLIVER STREWE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Pacific Island Culture

Welcome to ‘The Big Taro’, where around 195,000 residents of Polynesian descent make Auckland the capital of the South Pacific. The influence of Pacific Islanders from Samoa, the Cook Islands, Tonga, Niue, Fiji, Tokelau and Tuvalu is evident throughout the Auckland region. On the sports field, the city’s professional teams showcase the best of Polynesian power, especially the NZ Warriors rugby league team. Immerse yourself in Pacific Island culture at the weekly Otara Market, or time your visit for March’s annual Pasifika Festival.

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MICHAL TESAR / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Rugby

Rugby union is NZ’s national game and governing preoccupation. If your timing’s good, you might catch the revered national team (and three-time world champions, most recently in 2015), the All Blacks, in action. The ‘ABs’ are resident gods: drop any of their names into a conversation and you’ll win friends for life. Visit the New Zealand Rugby Museum in Palmerston North, watch some kids running around a suburban field on a Saturday morning, or yell along with the locals in a small-town pub as the big men collide on the big screen.

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JUAN MABROMATA / GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

New Zealand dollar ($)

Languages

English, Māori, NZ Sign Language

Visas

Visitors need an NZeTA (NZ$12 online). Also, tourists are expected to pay an International Visitor Conservation and Tourism Levy (IVL; $35).

Money

Bank cards are used for most purchases, and are accepted in most hotels and restaurants. ATMs are widely available in cities and larger towns.

Mobile Phones

It’s simple to buy a local SIM card and prepaid account at outlets in airports and large towns (provided your mobile is unlocked).

Time

New Zealand time (GMT/UTC plus 12 hours)

When to Go

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High Season (Dec–Feb)

A Summer: busy beaches, outdoor explorations, festivals and sporting events. December can be wet.

A Auckland empties between Christmas and New Year.

A High season in the ski towns is winter (June to August).

Shoulder (Mar–Apr)

A Prime travelling time: fine weather, short queues, kids in school and warm(ish) ocean.

A Long evenings sipping Kiwi wines and craft beers.

A Spring (September to November) is shoulder season too.

Low Season (May–Aug)

A Head for the slopes of Mt Ruapehu for some brilliant southern-hemisphere skiing.

A No crowds, good accommodation deals and a seat in any restaurant.

A Be warned: beach towns can be in hibernation

Useful Websites

The Spinoff (www.thespinoff.co.nz) Latest culture, arts and politics.

100% Pure New Zealand (www.newzealand.com) Comprehensive government tourism site.

Department of Conservation (www.doc.govt.nz) DOC parks, trail and camping info.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Te Ara (www.teara.govt.nz) Online encyclopedia of NZ.

Important Numbers

Regular numbers have a two-digit area code followed by a seven-digit number. When dialling within a region, the area code is required.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than $150

A Dorm beds or campsites: $25−45 per night

A Main course in a budget eatery: less than $20

A InterCity: 15 hours or five trips from $132

Midrange: $150–250

A Double room in a midrange hotel/motel: $130–200

A Main course in a midrange restaurant: $20-35

A Car rental: from $45 per day

Top end: More than $250

A Double room in an upmarket hotel: from $200-300

A Three-course meal in a classy restaurant: $80+

A Domestic flights from $100

Opening Hours

Opening hours vary seasonally depending on where you are. Most places close on Christmas Day and Good Friday.

Banks 9am–4.30pm Monday to Friday, some also 9am–noon Saturday

Cafes 7am or 8am–3pm or 4pm

Post offices 8.30am–5pm Monday to Friday; larger branches also 9.30am–1pm Saturday

Pubs and bars Noon–late (‘late’ varies by region, and by day)

Restaurants Noon–2.30pm and 6pm–9pm

Shops and businesses 9am–5.30pm Monday to Friday and 9am–noon or 5pm Saturday

Supermarkets 7am–9pm

Arriving in New Zealand’s North Island

Auckland Airport Airbus Express buses run into the city every 10 to 30 minutes, 24 hours. Door-to-door shuttle buses run 24 hours (from $35). A taxi into the city costs $80 to $90 (45 minutes).

Wellington Airport Airport Flyer buses ($9) run into the city every 10 to 20 minutes from around 7am to 9pm. Door-to-door shuttle buses run 24 hours. A taxi into the city costs around $30 (20 minutes).

Safe Travel

New Zealand is no more dangerous than other developed countries, but take normal safety precautions, especially after dark on city streets and in remote areas.

A Kiwi roads are often made hazardous by map-distracted tourists, wide-cornering campervans and traffic-ignorant sheep.

A Avoid leaving valuables in vehicles: theft is a problem, even in remote areas.

A New Zealand’s climate is unpredictable: hypothermia is a risk in high-altitude areas.

A At the beach, beware of rips and undertows, which can drag swimmers out to sea.

For more practical information, see Directory

First Time North Island

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Ensure your passport is valid for at least three months past your intended return date from New Zealand

A Book rental cars, campervans and train tickets well in advance, particularly for travel during summer

A Got travel insurance? Does it cover activities like bungy jumping?

A Read up on NZ’s Māori culture; learn some phrases

What to Pack

A Sturdy walking shoes – visiting NZ without doing at least some hiking (tramping) is a crime!

A Small day pack

A NZ electrical adaptor

A Sunglasses for bright southern days

A Woolly hat for unexpectedly chilly evenings

A Reusable water bottle

A Earplugs for hostel dorms

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Allow more driving time than you think you need. Outside cities, roads are narrow, winding and slow with mountains and campervans to navigate. Don’t try to see the whole country in two weeks.

A Booked activities/tours can be cancelled at the last minute due to weather. Build extra time into your itinerary in case your tour is bumped to the following day.

A Don’t expect wi-fi to be free (or fast) outside cities. Where they do provide wi-fi, hotels and cafes may sometimes offer vouchers for a limited amount of data.

What to Wear

Given the locals’ propensity for the outdoorsy life, dress norms in NZ are generally fairly practical and versatile. Dress up for a night out on the town in major cities (don’t expect to get into a classy bar wearing shorts and flip-flops – or ‘jandals’ as the locals call them), but elsewhere the key to comfort is to layer up.

The weather here can change in a blink, particularly around Fiordland and the West Coast of the South Island: you’ll be best equipped to adapt if you can quickly add or remove clothes to keep pace with the temperature.

Sleeping

The North Island is blessed with great accommodation at every budget level, including excellent holiday parks (fancy campsites with tent pitches, self-contained cabins, games rooms and often a swimming pool) and some exceptional hostels. As you’d expect, things are pricier in the big cities of Auckland and Wellington. Motels are the top sleeping choice for most Kiwi families, so you’ll find them liberally scattered around all of the main holiday destinations. Hotel accommodation is mainly limited to the bigger cities, with the best range in Auckland and Wellington.

What to Take

Add the following to your usual travel packing list: soft carry bags for grocery shopping (plastic bags are shunned in NZ already); a small day pack; a refillable water bottle; a bottle opener if you’re buying wines to picnic with; a small umbrella for sudden downpours in the tropical north; plus walking boots for spontaneous day walks. Even if you’re not planning an epic hike you’re likely to do day walks to break up the driving, sightseeing and fine dining.

Bargaining

Haggling and bargaining aren’t traditionally part of commercial culture in NZ. The only circumstances where you might have some luck are farmers markets at the end of the day or large private purchases (buying a local’s car for a knock-down price). Otherwise, the price is the price.

Tipping

Tipping is completely optional in NZ.

Guides Your kayaking guide or tour-group leader would happily accept tips, and $10 is kind.

Restaurants The total on your bill is all you need to pay. If you like, reward good service with 5% to 10%.

Taxis If you round up your fare, don’t be surprised if the driver hands back your change.

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Tongariro Alpine Crossing | NAZAR_AB / GETTY IMAGES ©

Etiquette

New Zealanders are a laid-back, modest bunch as a whole – exercising the usual good manners will help endear you to the locals.

Greetings Shake hands when meeting someone for the first time, and look people in the eye. Always say hello and shout a ‘thanks’ when getting on and off a bus.

Māori customs Adhere to strict Māori protocols if visiting marae (meeting-house complexes). Otherwise, respectful behaviour goes a long way, as always.

Invitations If you’re invited to dinner or a barbecue at someone’s house, bring some wine, beer, food or a bunch of flowers.

Language

English, te reo Māori and New Zealand Sign Language are NZ’s official languages. These days Māori words cross over into daily parlance: you’ll hear kia ora (hello) everywhere. Māori place names are now spelled correctly with macrons on most town signs. Online, www.maoridictionary.co.nz has a handy translator. The app Kupu (kupu.co.nz) teaches Māori nouns for everyday objects, and popular language app Duolingo plans to include a te reo Māori course for beginners in 2020. See Language for more information.

What’s New

Jacindamania continues to sweep the world, as the PM’s compassionate response to the Christchurch mosque attacks and White Island eruption in 2019 has fuelled her global popularity. From its green consciousness to the decolonising of statues in Gisborne, NZ is as progressive today as it was when it first gave women the vote over a century ago.

Adventure Activities

The sheer range of adventure activities in NZ keeps expanding, with a slew of exciting options. Stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) is trending all over the North Island, including cave SUPing in Rotorua. At Lake Taupō, the bungy jumping is from a clifftop platform; near Whangārei, Paihia and Rotorua, you can get in the saddle at MTB (mountain-bike) parks; and the Great Walks of New Zealand are now prebookable online.

Hundertwasser Park

The Austrian-born artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser moved to the Bay of Islands in 1975 and designed the world-famous Hundertwasser Toilets in Kawakawa, which officially opened in 1999, two months before his passing. Twenty years later, construction began on Hundertwasser Park: a community arts, culture and environment centre, and homage to the artist.

Zip-Lining at Driving Creek Railway

An 18-minute journey on this narrow-gauge mountain railway on the Coromandel takes you to a forest-covered hill and on to an exciting series of eight zip lines stretching for 705m amid the forest canopy. Short walks between the zip-line sections include commentary on Driving Creek’s native forest conservation (including kauri regeneration) programmes.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN NEW ZEALAND’S NORTH ISLAND

Tasmin Waby, Lonely Planet writer

New Zealand is going green with gusto. Everyone brings their own bags to the store (that’s a given in the North Island); solar panels are commonplace and sunshine is aplenty here; e-campervans can be rented, and electric recharge stations are popping up everywhere.

Buzz concept ‘overtourism’ is nothing new in NZ, where tourists sometimes outnumber locals and visitor hotspots (made all the more famous by cinema screens and social media) can suffer from their popular appeal.

To ensure the environment is kept clean, locals are kept on board with tourism, and wildlife is properly protected. The NZ government has been on the front foot with tourism dispersal to less busy (and therefore more Kiwi) spots strongly encouraged.

Dispersal is the hot topic on a local front too, with the JAFAs (just another f-ing Aucklander) moving to regional centres where fibre broadband and better road connections are making commuting or remote working more manageable. The result? House prices are rising but wages are not (and we all know where that conversation leads…). Watch this space.

Stargazing on Great Barrier Island

Following its 2017 recognition as a Dark Sky Sanctuary, Great Barrier Island, 88km northeast of Auckland, now offers the opportunity for after-dark stargazing tours. Walking experiences combine local history (exploring a former whaling station), as well as dramatic scenery and dark-sky viewing.

Cook’s Statue

In Gisborne, to mark the 250th anniversary of Cook’s landing (1769–2019), the statue of ‘The Crook Cook’ by the port was given a facelift to incorporate the Māori perspective on his epochal arrival, upon which nine local men were murdered. The $5.3-million upgrade saw the addition of 112 huge steel tukutuku (weaving) panels symbolising the meeting of – and differences between – two cultures.

Kiwi Camp

New sites for ‘freedom campers’ are being developed by a group called Kiwi Camp (www.kiwicamp.nz), which provides basic pay-as-you-use facilities via an app and digital key fob. The company drops in a stand-alone container with showers, toilets and cooking hobs. Other benefits are proper rubbish and recycling facilities and parking. And with little staff or overheads, costs are low so travellers on a budget can afford to stay while ensuring their visit to New Zealand doesn’t negatively impact the natural environment, which has been one of the key concerns with freedom campers in NZ to date.

He Ara Kotahi

Meaning ‘a pathway that brings people together’, this 7.1km track in Palmerston North links farmland, forests, Māori pā (fortified hilltop villages) and the city itself. Open to pedestrians, dogs and cyclists, its centrepiece is the bridge over the Manawatu River.

Tours

New Zealand’s already ample suite of tours just keeps expanding with new operators and new ideas. Of particular note if you’re exploring the North Island: Waka Tours in Whitianga, integrating the history and culture of the local Ngāti Hei people; and the new zip-line tours at the Driving Creek Conservation Park and Waitomo Caves.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand/articles.

Undertheradar (www.undertheradar.co.nz) Music news, gigs and ticket sales.

The Spinoff (www.thespinoff.co.nz) Culture and news.

All Blacks (www.allblacks.com) Follow the nation’s unifying obsession.

Noted (www.noted.co.nz) The Listener, Metro and North & South magazines, plus Radio NZ.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Plant-based eating

Language Apps and emotikis in te reo Māori

Number of venomous snakes Zero

Population 4.69 million

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Off-Grid Brewery

Aotea Brewing on Great Barrier Island is NZ’s first solar-powered off-grid craft brewery. Beers, including their Solar American Pale Ale, are brewed entirely off the grid in the compact on-site microbrewery. Takeaways are available in sustainable and recyclable bottles at Aotea’s rustic taproom, at The Rocks bottle shop in Claris and several other ‘refill stations’ around NZ.

For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand

Accommodation

Find more accommodation reviews throughout the On the Road chapters

Accommodation Types

Motels and pubs Most towns have low-rise, midrange motels. Even small towns usually have a pub with rooms.

B&Bs Bed and breakfast accommodation in New Zealand pops up in the middle of cities, in rural hamlets and on stretches of isolated coastline, with rooms offered in everything from suburban bungalows to stately manors.

Holiday parks Ideal if you’re camping or touring in a campervan. Choose from unpowered tent sites, simple cabins and en-suite units.

Hostels Backpacker hostels include beery, party-prone joints and family-friendly ‘flashpackers’.

Pods Small private spaces from airport hotels to glass pods in the forest.

Hotels From small-town pubs to slick global-chain operations – with commensurate prices.

Lodges Luxurious in every sense, from the architecture to the locations, NZ has a stunning array of splash-out-worthy retreats.

PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom during high season. Price ranges generally increase by 20% to 25% in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. Here you can still find budget accommodation at up to $120 per double, but midrange stretches from $120 to $200, with top-end rooms more than $200.

$ less than $120

$$ $120–$200

$$$ more than $200

Best Places to Stay

Best for Families

Families are well catered for across NZ’s North Island mainly at motels and holiday parks, where kids are welcomed with open arms and there’s plenty of space, playgrounds and usually other children to befriend. The rare upmarket accommodation will be unsuitable for little ones, but will make it clear on their website or when attempting to book.

A Hot Water Beach Top 10 Holiday Park , Hot Water Beach

A Aroha Island , Kerikeri

A Fossil Bay Lodge , Waiheke Island

A Russell Top 10 , Russell

Best on a Budget

Beyond holiday parks and DOC campsites, which are your best bet for budget accommodation, there is a handful of hostels across the North Island that deliver the best budget experiences, so even if you’re not watching your bank account they’re worth a stay if you don’t mind a night or two without all the luxe trappings.

A Ducks & Drakes , New Plymouth

A Piha Beachstay – Jandal Palace , Piha

A Tree House , Kohukohu

A Wainui , Russell

Best for Solo Travellers

New Zealand is a great place to travel solo: no one will bat an eyelid if you check in on your own, and staff are usually friendly and up for a chat if you need it. The only problem is the cost of accommodation on your own, which is why these excellent hostels are a must visit on your travel itinerary.

A Stranded in Paradise , Pacific Coast Hwy

A Haka Lodge , Auckland

A Karikari Lodge , Karikari Peninsula

A Endless Summer , Ahipara

Best Luxury Options

New Zealand does uberluxury well with exclusive lodges and private resorts for travellers who catch helicopters like the rest of us get taxis. For more accessible luxury options, check out these excellent boutique hotel options across the North Island.

A Ohtel , Wellington

A King & Queen Hotel Suites , New Plymouth

A XSPOT , Great Barrier Island

Booking

Local visitor information centres are generally excellent for accommodation in the area; many can also make bookings on your behalf.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/hotels) Find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay – and then book them online.

Bach Care (www.bachcare.co.nz) Rental listings for apartments of all sizes, including many beachfront options.

Book a Bach (www.bookabach.co.nz) Apartment and holiday-house bookings.

Holiday Houses (www.holidayhouses.co.nz) Holiday-house rentals NZ-wide.

New Zealand Bed & Breakfast (www.bnb.co.nz) Great for all sorts of B&Bs.

Stay Native (https://explore.staynative.co.nz) Lists indigenous-run sustainable activities and hosts.

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A bach | SIMONBRADFIELD / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Kiwi Bach

The basic Kiwi holiday home is called a ‘bach’ (short for ‘bachelor’, as they were historically used by single men as hunting and fishing hideouts); in Otago and Southland they’re known as ‘cribs’. These are simple self-contained cottages that can be rented in rural and coastal areas, often in isolated locations, and sometimes include surf, fishing or other outdoor gear hire in the cost. Prices are typically $150 to $250 per night, which isn’t bad for a whole house or self-contained bungalow. For more upmarket holiday houses, expect to pay anything from $250 to $500 per double.

Getting Around

For more information, see Transport

Travelling by Car

Nothing beats the freedom that travelling around the North Island by car provides. You’ll be able to access beautifully remote beaches and forest tracks that are impractical to reach otherwise. The roads are mostly excellent and the going is easy. That said, a surprising number of tourists come unstuck while driving in New Zealand.

The major problems seem to be: drivers temporarily forgetting which side of the road they should be driving on (the left); fatigued drivers hiring cars after long flights and embarking on lengthy road journeys; and inexperienced drivers on winding country roads, particularly in mountainous terrain (more of a problem on the South Island than on the North). If you’re spotted driving erratically it’s not unknown for locals to confiscate your keys and call the police; generally the police will contact the hire company who will cancel your contract, potentially leaving you stranded. So, while driving in NZ isn’t especially difficult, if you’re inexperienced or your experience is limited to cities only, consider alternatives.

New Zealanders may come across as friendly and polite, but many seem to save their rage for the roads. Driving in the bigger cities, in particular, can be stressful as Kiwi motorists are notoriously unaccommodating if you find you need to change lanes. Parking in the city centres is also expensive, and the roads get seriously jammed around rush hours in places like Auckland, Tauranga and Wellington.

If you’re flying into Auckland or Wellington, especially on a long flight, we’d highly recommend that you give yourself a day or two to recover, and to see the sights (by public transport, taxi or Uber), before hiring a car.

RESOURCES

Automobile Association (www.aa.co.nz/travel) Emergency breakdown services, distance calculators, maps and accommodation guides. Has reciprocal arrangements with similar overseas organisations.

NZ Transport Agency (www.nzta.govt.nz) Real-time traffic reports, journey planner, and information on walking, cycling and public transport. It also handles online payment for the toll roads heading north of Auckland and around Tauranga.

Ngā Haerenga: The New Zealand Cycle Trail (www.nzcycletrail.com) Cycling information including suggested itineraries, track details, outlines of 22 ‘Great Rides’, and cycling events.

Car Hire

It’s easy to rent a car from any of the main centres, with the major international agencies having offices both at the airports and in the city centres. In most cases it’s cheaper to hire from a local agency, where the cars may be a little older or slightly battered.

Driving Conditions

All major routes are sealed and well maintained, but in more remote, off-the-beaten-track areas you may strike some unsealed roads.

Famously, Northland has some beaches that are gazetted as roads, notably Ninety Mile Beach and Ripiro Ocean Beach. However, driving on the sands isn’t as easy as it looks, and vehicles regularly get stuck. Most rental insurance agreements won’t cover you if you do, so these routes are best avoided unless you’re travelling in a heavy-duty 4WD (a sedan equipped with a 4WD function won’t cut it).

No Car?

Bus

Buses connect major towns; beyond that you’ll be relying on tours. Various tour companies offer guided coach trips to the main destinations. The larger cities have extensive local bus networks, but sometimes no service on Sundays.

Air

Aside from Auckland, the main air-travel hub, there are airports in the Bay of Islands (Kerikeri), Gisborne, Great Barrier Island, Hamilton, Kāpiti Coast, Napier, New Plymouth, Palmerston North, Rotorua, Taupō, Tauranga, Wellington, Whakatāne, Whanganui and Whangārei. It’s often possible to pick up a cheap domestic fare with some advance planning.

Train

The North Island’s main trunk line from Auckland to Wellington is more of a scenic journey than an effective transport mode. Trains also connect Wellington to Palmerston North, the Kāpiti Coast and the Wairarapa.

Bicycle

While plenty of people do it, New Zealand isn’t the easiest country for cycling. Even on the North Island, the terrain is hilly and motor vehicles can be unforgiving and unaccommodating.

DRIVING FAST FACTS

A Drive on the left.

A All vehicle occupants must wear a seat belt.

A Minimum age for a full licence is 18 years.

A Carry your licence at all times.

A Maximum speed 100km/h on motorways, 50km/h in built-up areas.

A Blood alcohol limit 50mg per 100ml (0.05%).

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If You Like...

Māori Culture

Auckland A handful of excellent Māori tour operators showcase Auckland’s indigenous culture and history.

Rotorua Engaging opportunities to learn first-hand with many operators, watch a performance and enjoy a hāngi (Māori earth-cooked feast).

Footprints Waipoua Explore the staggeringly beautiful Waipoua Kauri Forest on Northland’s west coast with a Māori guide.

Taiamai Tours Heritage Journeys Help paddle a waka (canoe) along the sleepy Waitangi River to Haruru Falls.

East Cape Beautifully carved meeting houses can be spotted all the way along the coastal highway.

Te Papa The national museum in Wellington has wonderful Māori displays and its own marae (meeting house).

Foodie Experiences

Auckland Top-notch restaurants and ethnic culinary enclaves make Auckland a global eating capital.

Sky Waka Several dining options, all with first-class ingredients and stunning views from Mt Ruapehu.

Wellington Fine-dining options plus coffee-serious cafes line this compact capital’s city streets.

Hawke’s Bay Combine dining in outstanding vineyard restaurants with exploring farmers markets and roadside stalls.

Māori Rotorua Tuck into a feast cooked in a hāngi on a Māori cultural tour.

Tūrangi trout Feast on your own catch in the trout-fishing capital of the world.

Wine Regions

Martinborough A small-but-sweet wine region a day trip from Wellington; easy cycling and easy-drinking pinot noir.

Hawke’s Bay One of New Zealand’s oldest and most established wine areas is still one of its best.

Waiheke Island Auckland’s favourite weekend playground has a hot, dry microclimate: perfect for Bordeaux-style reds and rosés.

Matakana Matakana combines an expanding boutique vineyard scene, brilliant beaches and a great weekly farmers market.

Gisborne Chardonnay reigns supreme in the sunny farmland surrounding NZ’s most easterly city.

West Auckland Sample the produce of the trailblazing Croatian families who kick-started NZ’s wine industry.

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Waiheke Island | ROBIN BUSH / GETTY IMAGES ©

Beaches

Karekare A classic black-sand West Auckland beach with wild surf.

Hahei The archetypal Coromandel beach, with fascinating Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach on its doorstep.

Gisborne The East Coast city is spoiled for choice with Waikanae, Midway and surfy Wainui.

Manu Bay New Zealand’s most famous surf break (seen Endless Summer?) peels ashore south of Raglan.

Mangawhai Choose your mood: a terrific surf beach or the quiet waters of the estuary.

Ōhope A long stretch of lovely sand and some hidden bays by the headland.

Whakaipo Bay A pretty spot to test your mettle in the frigid waters of Lake Taupō.

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Bungy jumping, Taupō | CHAMELEONSEYE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cities

Auckland The City of Sails is infused with vibrant Pacific Islander culture and a world-class foodie scene.

Wellington Cultural and creative capital, snugly surrounded by hillsides dotted with Victorian architecture.

Hamilton New Zealand’s fourth-biggest city’s bar scene, restaurants, museum and Waikato River all deserve a look.

New Plymouth Beyond New Plymouth’s laid-back provincial charm is a winning selection of cosmopolitan museums and cafes.

Napier Art-deco and Spanish Mission architecture, complemented by new restaurants and a modern museum on the waterfront.

Whangārei This subtropical city surrounded by epic walking tracks is an enclave for artists, sun lovers and escapees from Auckland.

Extreme Activities

SkyWalk, Sky Tower The adrenaline-pumping extreme scene permeates downtown Auckland.

Waitomo black-water rafting Rampage along an underground river in a wetsuit and a helmet with a torch attached.

Stand-up paddle boarding Glide Rotorua’s Lake Okareka and into some glowworm caves.

Sandboarding Blast your way down the massive dunes of Ninety Mile Beach.

Taupo Bungy Plummet towards the crystalline waters of the Waikato at one of NZ’s prettiest bungy sites.

Festivals

Pasifika Festival Every March, Auckland’s Western Springs is transformed into a slice of the tropical South Pacific.

WOMAD World music permeates New Plymouth’s Bowl of Brooklands, one of NZ’s best outdoor concert venues.

Whangamata Beach Hop This Coromandel surf town comes alive with music and classic car culture in March/April.

New Zealand Festival Biennial festival of the arts, held in Wellington in February/March in even-numbered years.

Highland Games Waipu’s Scottish community attacks any New Year’s Day hangovers with bagpipes and caber tossing.

Auckland Folk Festival Family-friendly affair with traditional, Celtic, Americana and folk music, and camping.

Galleries

Auckland Art Gallery European works and a strong New Zealand collection, housed in an attractively renovated building.

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery New Plymouth’s contemporary gallery has a striking metallic extension showcasing the work of Len Lye.

City Gallery A wonderful Wellington showcase for contemporary art, often hosting major international exhibitions.

Whangārei Art Museum An interesting permanent collection, serving the surprisingly artsy community of Northland’s main centre.

Tauranga Art Gallery Historic and contemporary art housed in a converted bank building.

Wallace Arts Centre There’s free entry to this gorgeous mansion containing a cutting-edge private art collection.

History

Waitangi Treaty Grounds Site of the first signing of the treaty between Māori chiefs and the British Crown.

Te Papa Wellington’s vibrant treasure-trove museum, where history speaks, sparkles and shakes.

Whanganui River Road Drive alongside the slow-curling river past Māori towns and the remnants of failed farms.

Russell New Zealand’s rambunctious first capital is now a pretty harbourside village with historic sites aplenty.

One Tree Hill The terraces of historic Māori fortifications are clearly visible on Auckland’s volcanic cones.

Buried Village Explore the remains of Te Wairoa, a village destroyed by the 1886 Mt Tarawera eruption.

Markets

Otara Flea Market Multicultural Auckland’s best Saturday-morning market brims with buskers, crafts, fashion and food.

Harbourside Market Wellington’s obligatory produce pit stop with lots of artisan gourmet treats and a superb location.

La Cigale This French-influenced Auckland farmers market features an international array of stallholders.

Gisborne Farmers Market Local producers sell everything from macadamia nuts to fresh fish.

Museums

Auckland Museum A neoclassical Greek temple-style building houses a superb collection of Māori and Pacific Islander artefacts.

Te Papa The country’s biggest museum showcases the history, culture and geography of NZ.

Kauri Museum Find out what the region looked like before logging came to town.

Puke Ariki New Plymouth’s snazzy waterfront museum is sprinkled with Māori, colonial and wildlife exhibits.

Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi Inside the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, this modern museum tells the story of the nation of NZ’s founding document.

Waipu Museum Interactive displays and holograms are all about this small town’s Scottish heritage.

Waikato Museum An excellent regional museum that’s especially strong on Māori history.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

WOMAD, March

World of WearableArt, September/October

Pasifika Festival, March

New Zealand Festival, February/March

NZ Tattoo & Art Festival, November

January

New Zealand peels its eyes open after New Year’s Eve, gathers its wits and gets set for another year. Great weather, cricket season in full swing and happy holidays for the locals.

3 Auckland Folk Festival

Kumeū Showgrounds in West Auckland hosts this annual long-weekend festival of traditional, Celtic, Americana and folk music.

z Festival of Lights

New Plymouth’s Pukekura Park is regularly plastered with adjectives like ‘jewel’ and ‘gem’, but the gardens really sparkle during the seven-week Festival of Lights. Pathways glow and trees shine with thousands of lights, and there’s live music and family-friendly performances.

February

The sun is shining, kids are back at school and the ‘sauv blanc’ is chillin’ in the fridge: this is prime summer party time across NZ. Book your festival tickets (and beds) in advance.

z Waitangi Day

On 6 February 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between Māori and the British Crown. The day remains a public holiday across NZ, and in Waitangi itself (in the Bay of Islands) there are guided tours, concerts, market stalls and family entertainment.

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Waitangi Day celebrations | URBAN NAPFLIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z New Zealand Festival

This month-long spectacular happens in Wellington in February to March every even-numbered year, and is sure to spark your imagination. NZ’s cultural capital exudes artistic enthusiasm with theatre, dance, music and visual arts, and there are international acts aplenty.

3 Fringe

New Zealand Fringe is where the unusual, emerging and controversial acts come to play. We’re talking cabaret, comedy, spoken word...and pavement chalking.

3 New Zealand International Sevens

It’s not rugby season, but late January sees the world’s seven-a-side rugby teams crack heads in Hamilton as part of the NZ Rugby Sevens World Series: everyone from stalwarts Australia, NZ and South Africa to newcomers like Kenya and Canada.

z Art-Deco Weekend

In the third week of February, Napier, levelled by an earthquake in 1931 and rebuilt in high art-deco style, celebrates its architectural heritage with this high-steppin’ fiesta, featuring music, food, wine, vintage cars and costumes over a long weekend in February.

March

March brings a hint of autumn, with harvest time in the vineyards and orchards, and long, dusky evenings with plenty of festivals plumping out the calendar. Locals unwind following peak visitor season.

z Te Matatini National Kapa Haka Festival

This spine-tingling haka competition (www.tematatini.co.nz) happens in early March/late February in odd-numbered years: with much gesticulation, eye-bulging and tongue extension. But it’s not just the haka: expect traditional Māori song, dance, storytelling and other performing arts. Host cities vary.

z WOMAD

Local and international music, arts and dance performances fill New Plymouth’s Bowl of Brooklands to overflowing at WOMAD. An evolution of the original world-music festival dreamed up by rock and art aficionados including Peter Gabriel, who launched the inaugural UK concert in 1982. Perfect for families.

z Pasifika Festival

With around 140,000 Māori and notable communities of Tongans, Samoans, Cook Islanders, Niueans and Fijians, Auckland has the largest Pacific Islander community in the world. These vibrant island cultures come together at this annual fiesta in Western Springs Park.

April

April is when canny travellers hit NZ: the ocean is still swimmable and the weather still mild, with nary a queue in sight (except Easter, when locals holiday everywhere).

z National Jazz Festival

Every Easter, Tauranga hosts the longest-running jazz fest (www.jazz.org.nz) in the southern hemisphere. There’s a New Orleans–style village, big band, and Māori jazz plus plenty of fine NZ food and wine to accompany the finger-snappin’ za-bah-de-dah sonics.

May

The nostalgia of autumn runs deep: party nights are long gone and another chilly Kiwi winter beckons. Thank goodness for the Comedy Festival! Farmers markets overflow with good-value organic produce.

3 New Zealand International Comedy Festival

Three-week laugh-fest in May, with venues across Auckland, Wellington and various regional centres. International gag-merchants line up next to home-grown talent.

June

It’s the beginning of the ski season, so time to head to Mt Ruapehu. For everyone else, head north: the Bay of Plenty is always sunny, and is it just us or is Northland underrated?

z Matariki

Māori New Year is heralded by the rise of Matariki (aka the Pleiades star cluster) in May and the sighting of the new moon in June. Remembrance, education, music, film, community days and tree planting take place, mainly around Auckland, Wellington and Northland.

July

Wellington’s good citizens clutch collars, shiver and hang out in bookshops and cafes. The All Blacks kick off the international rugby season, so find a pub and get cheering. Yes, even you Aussies.

3 NZ International Film Festival

A touring film festival (www.nzff.co.nz) of local and international gems that hits Wellington, Auckland, Dunedin and Christchurch, and then a host of regional towns brimming with film buffs. Check the website for places and dates.

2 Russell Birdman

Birdman rallies are so ’80s, but that’s part of the attraction, no? This one in Russell (www.russellbirdman.co.nz) features a cast of costumed contenders propelling themselves off a jetty in pursuit of weightlessness. Discos, cake-decoration and spaghetti-eating contests for kids round out a satisfying, family-friendly community event.

August

Land a good deal on accommodation pretty much anywhere except around Mt Ruapehu’s ski scene. Winter is almost spent, but there’s still not much happening outside. Music, great pubs and art are your saviours.

z Jazz & Blues Festival

You might think that the Bay of Islands is all about sunning yourself on a yacht while dolphins splash you with saltwater. But in winter, this jazzy three-day festival (www.jazz-blues.co.nz) provides a toe-tapping alternative, showcasing over 45 acts from around NZ.

6 Beervana

Attain beery nirvana at this annual craft-beef guzzle fest in Wellington (it’s freezing outside – what else is there to do?). But seriously, the NZ craft-beer scene is booming – here’s your chance to sample the best of it. Not loving beer is heresy, but yes, it also has cider and wine.

September

Spring has sprung! The amazing and surprising World of WearableArt Award Show is always a hit. And when is Canterbury going to claw back its reputation at the annual ITM rugby cup final?

z World of WearableArt

A bizarre (in the best possible way) two-week Wellington event featuring amazing hand-crafted garments. Entries from the show are displayed at the World of WearableArt & Classic Cars Museum in Nelson after the event (Cadillacs and corset-ry?). Sometimes spills over into October.

October

This postrugby and precricket season leaves sports fans twiddling their thumbs. Time to head east to Gisborne? October is shoulder season, with reasonable accommodation rates, minimal crowds and no competition for the best campsites.

6 First Light Wine & Food Festival

Around Labour Weekend – in the second half of the month – Gisborne’s proud winemakers pair with local foodies and artisan producers to showcase the region’s tasty goodies. There’s lots of great music too.

November

Across Northland, the Coromandel Peninsula, the Bay of Plenty and the East Coast, NZ’s iconic pohutukawa trees start to bloom, the weather picks up and the tourists arrive. Lock in your trail bookings early, hikers.

z NZ Tattoo & Art Festival

Australasia’s biggest tattoo culture festival (www.nztattooart.com) attracts artists and fans to New Plymouth every November. Enquire ahead if you’re hoping to get inked by one of the many internationally regarded tattooists in attendance.

6 Toast Martinborough

Bound for a day of boozy indulgence, wine-swilling Wellingtonians head over Rimutaka Hill and roll into upmarket Martinborough. The Wairarapa region produces some seriously good pinot noir, and it’s perhaps every wine lover’s duty to sample some.

2 Lake Taupō Cycle Challenge

Feeling fit? Try cycling 160km around Lake Taupō in NZ’s largest cycling event. Held on the last Saturday in November for more than 40 years, the Lake Taupō Cycle Challenge (www.cyclechallenge.com) is fun to watch too.

December

Summertime! The crack of leather on willow resounds across the nation’s cricket pitches, and office workers surge towards the finish line. Everyone gears up for Christmas, and shopping centres and city bars are packed out.

z Rhythm & Vines

Wine, music and song (all the good things) in sunny Gisborne over New Year’s Eve. DJs, hip-hop acts, bands and singer-songwriters compete for your attention at Rhythm & Vines (www.rhythmandvines.co.nz). Or maybe you’d rather see the year out under the stars on the beach.

Itineraries

A Grand Circuit

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2 WEEKS

Tracing a broad circuit around most of the North Island, this is an ideal route for travellers with time on their hands. Kick off by exploring bustling Auckland before heading to the Coromandel Peninsula, via Thames and Coromandel Town, to the legendary Hahei. Spend a day kayaking, visiting Cathedral Cove and digging a natural spa pool at nearby Hot Water Beach.

Continue south to Rotorua, the most dramatic of NZ’s geothermal hotspots. Stop for the night at laid-back Whakatāne before taking the winding coastal road right around isolated East Cape to beachy Gisborne. At Napier, pause to admire the art-deco architecture and acclaimed Hawke’s Bay wineries. More wine awaits in Martinborough, which is a short hop from the nation’s vibrant capital, Wellington.

After two nights, head north and then branch out west towards Whanganui and New Plymouth, a charming regional city with a brilliant art gallery, in the shadow of majestic Mt Taranaki. As you near the end of your North Island odyssey returning to Auckland, take comfort that you’ve saved some highlights till last: the glowworm-lit magnificence of the Waitomo Caves and the chilled-out little surf town of Raglan.

Itineraries

Auckland & the North

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10 DAYS

If you’re travelling in summer and fancy an unhurried seaside holiday, this itinerary is for you.

First spend three days in Auckland, exploring its volcanoes, beaches, bars and eate-ries, and taking day trips to Waiheke Island, Great Barrier Island and the west-coast beaches near Piha. Next hit the highway and head north to Mangawhai or sleepy Tutukaka for surf beaches and underwater exploration around the Poor Knights Islands, where you can dive the wreck of the Greenpeace-owned Rainbow Warrior.

Now continue on to the postcard-perfect Bay of Islands for a dose of Māori and colonial history at Waitangi Treaty Grounds and the Kerikeri Mission Station, plus the timeless charm of pretty coves, tiny towns and coastal scenery. Stay for at least two nights in the region and spend at least one day cruising between the islands on the myriad boat tours available.

Heading further north drop by Doubtless Bay for another lazy beach day and to feast on fish and chips on the wharf at historic Mangonui, along with the tour buses that stop here on a day trip to the tip of the North Island. The following morning, take a long, leisurely drive up to Cape Reinga at the very tip of the country – the most sacred site in traditional Māori spirituality. If time allows, detour to the giant sand dunes at Te Paki and then stick around to watch the sun set over the ocean before returning to your accommodation at night. This is remote country, so make sure you stock up on food and fuel before departing for the tip.

Venture south, skirting the windswept expanses of Ninety Mile Beach, before hitting the hippie surfer enclave at Ahipara. Continue south via the Hokianga Harbour and stop for the night at Opononi overlooking the wild west coastline. Allow yourself time to pay homage to the majestic kauri trees of the Waipoua Forest before commencing the long, scenic drive back to Auckland via the excellent museums and food producers around Dargaville.

Itineraries

Central Highlights

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1 WEEK

This itinerary offers a short, sharp blast down the middle of the island, taking in NZ’s two main cities and other highlights along the way.

After a couple of days in energetic and cosmopolitan Auckland, soaking up the vibrant food and bar scene and viewing national treasures at the Auckland Museum, start the slow drive south, dropping in to briefly explore Hamilton and its classic cars, genteel Cambridge, and Hobbiton at Matamata en route to adventure capital Rotorua.

At this destination the classic combo of bubbling thermal activity and vibrant Māori culture awaits, and you can ease any travel aches with a lengthy soak in a hot spring or unleash any pent-up energy zip lining, mountain biking or stand-up paddle boarding to name a few options here.

Next continue south to Taupō for jetboating thrills or the more relaxed appeal of trout fishing in its well-stocked lake. If you’re feeling brave, bungy jump above the Waikato River.

Follow the coves of Lake Taupō’s picturesque eastern shore to Tongariro National Park, where there’s good winter skiing, and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, judged one of the world’s best one-day walks. If walking doesn’t appeal, you can dine at New Zealand’s highest restaurant at Knoll Ridge Chalet.

History enthusiasts will love the National Army Museum at Waiouru, or stop at the beach in Paekākāriki for a 10km coastal walk with epic views, before pushing on to Wellington. The nation’s cute little capital has more than enough museums, galleries, bars and cafes to amuse you for a couple of days, and a good bar and live-music scene to blast away the cobwebs at night.

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Plan Your Trip

Hiking in the North Island

Hiking (aka trekking, bushwalking, or ‘tramping’ as Kiwis call it) is the perfect