Travel Guide Best Road Trips New Zealand

By Peter Dragicevich, Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain and 3 more

Discover the freedom of the open road with Lonely Planet's New Zealand's Best Road Trips. This trusted travel companion features 25 amazing drives, from 3-day escapes to 2-week adventures. Cruise Bay of Islands, meander to vineyard restaurants on Waiheke Island, and spot whales off Kaikoura Coast. Get to New Zealand, rent a car, and hit the road!

Inside Lonely Planet's New Zealand's Best Road Trips:

Itineraries for classic road trips plus other lesser-known drives with expert advice to pick the routes that suit your interests and needs
Full-colour route maps - easy-to-read, detailed directions
Detours - delightful diversions to see Italy's highlights along the way

Link Your Trip - cruise from one driving route to the next

Insider tips - get around like a local, avoid trouble spots and be safe on the road - local driving rules, parking, toll roads
Stretch Your Legs - the best things to do outside the car

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
Lavish colour photography provides inspiration throughout

Covers Marlborough, Bay of Islands, Akaroa, West Coast, Central Plateau, Milford Sound, Waiheke Island, Kaikoura, Mackenzie Country, Waitomo Caves, Canterbury, Rotorua, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Queenstown and more

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's New Zealand's Best Road Trips is perfect for exploring Great Britain via the road and discovering sights that are more accessible by car.

Planning an Italy trip sans a car? Lonely Planet's New Zealand, our most comprehensive guide to Italy, is perfect for exploring both top sights and lesser-known gems.

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Feb 1, 2024
• ISBN: 9781837582778

Book preview

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome

Our Picks

When to go

Get Prepared

DRIVES

THERMAL DISCOVERER

Auckland

Hamilton

Matamata

Rotorua

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest

Lake Tarawera

Hell’s Gate

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal

Orakei Korako

Aratiatia Rapids

Wairakei

Huka Falls

Taupō

Waipunga Falls

Napier

KAIKŌURA COAST

Picton

Blenheim

Kaikōura

Gore Bay

Waipara Valley

Christchurch

EAST COAST EXPRESS

Dunedin

Moeraki

Ōamaru

Timaru

Akaroa

Lyttelton

Christchurch

BY REGION

AUCKLAND & THE NORTH

Northland & Bay of Islands

East & West Coast Explorer

Coromandel Peninsula

Waiheke Island Escape

ROTORUA & THE CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

Taranaki Wanderer

Tongariro National Park Loop

Waves & Caves to Whanganui

WELLINGTON & THE EAST COAST

North Island Southern Loop

Pacific Coast Explorer

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON

Sunshine & Wine

Tasman & Golden Bays

Going West: from Picton to Westport

CANTERBURY & THE WEST COAST

West Coast Road

Alpine Pacific Triangle

Two Passes

Inland Scenic Route

Alps to Ocean

Southern Alps Circuit

QUEENSTOWN & THE SOUTH

Milford Sound Majesty

Central Otago Explorer

Southern Scenic Route

Otago Heritage Trail

BACK MATTER

Arriving

Getting Around

Accommodation

Cars

Health & Safe Travel

Responsible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Behind the Scenes

The Writers

Welcome to New Zealand

New Zealand’s extraordinary natural beauty needs no further promotion. The very fact you’ve picked up this book suggests you’re already familiar with images of its majestic mountains, sparkling lakes, dramatic fjords and dazzling beaches. There’s simply no better way to access those beauty spots and get under the skin of the country than on a road trip.

The scenery changes continuously, swiftly moving from farmland to native bush, to steamy geothermal zones, to lakefront, to mountains, to coast. Even in the flattest parts of this island nation there’s always a mountain on the horizon, and water’s never far away either. Distances aren’t huge, so you’re always near the next town, where you can almost guarantee there’ll be a petrol station, a bed for the night and a decent coffee.

Exploring New Zealand by road is easy. Flick through the 25 routes in this book and start planning.

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Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park

NUR ISMAIL PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Our Picks

BEST MOUNTAIN DRIVES

Mountains provide a backdrop to every New Zealand road trip, whether they are the stand-alone volcanic cones of the central North Island, the intimidating jagged peaks of the Southern Alps or the many other prominent ranges scattered across both islands. Many of NZ’s most memorable drives head up and over alpine passes, sure to elicit gasps at every turn.

ROAD CLOSURES

Some roads tend to close in icy conditions, particularly the Crown Range Rd (between Queenstown and Wānaka) and Milford Sound Hwy.

i Two Passes

Loop through the Southern Alps between Christchurch and Greymouth via Lewis Pass and then Arthur’s Pass.

j Inland Scenic Route

Skirt glacial lakes near the Southern Alps before crossing to Central Otago via Lindis Pass.

l Southern Alps Circuit

Journey along both sides of the Alps, crossing them three times via famously beautiful passes.

SNOW CHAINS

Chains are required on some South Island mountain roads when there’s a threat of black ice or heavy snow.

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Lindis Pass, South Island

WONDERLUSTPICSTRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

m Milford Sound Majesty

Absorb magnificent scenery before you reach Fiordland National Park and an unforgettable final reveal.

n Central Otago Explorer

Circle past popular ski fields and four highly photogenic lakes on this impressive highland loop.

KEA

Look out for kea (loveable mountain parrots) on alpine passes. But beware: they’re enthusiastic thieves with a fondness for windscreen rubber.

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Clutha River, Otago

FILIP FUXA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Our Picks

BEST COASTAL DRIVES

You’re never far from the coast in this island nation, and NZ’s 14,000km of coastline is just as spectacular and varied as its interior. Rugged, atmospheric, black-sand surf beaches are the hallmark of the west coast of both islands. The east coast of the North Island, especially its top half, has the country’s prettiest white-sand swimming beaches.

SAFESWIM

Safeswim (safeswim.org.nz) assesses water quality and lists the hours that lifeguards are on duty at popular beaches around the country.

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West Coast, South Island

CHRIS HOWEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SURF SAFETY

New Zealand’s surf beaches can be treacherous. Where beaches are patrolled by surf lifesavers, always swim between the flags.

06 Coromandel Peninsula

The nation’s summertime playground, home to many of New Zealand’s most beautiful beaches.

c Pacific Coast Explorer

Surf beaches galore, interesting regional cities and a wonderfully remote drive around the East Cape.

e Tasman & Golden Bays

Gorgeous golden beaches line the sun-kissed top of the South Island.

PEAK SEASON

January is the busiest beach month, so book well ahead if travelling to coastal hot spots, especially around New Year.

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Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsula

SHAUN JEFFERS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

g West Coast Road

A wild, elemental drive along bush-lined coastline at the base of the Southern Alps.

o Southern Scenic Route

Sea lions and hardy surfers love this rugged stretch along the bottom of the South Island.

Our Picks

BEST HISTORY DRIVES

Humans only set foot here less than a millennium ago, but New Zealand’s relatively short human history doesn’t lack drama. There are plenty of places where you can engage with the richness of Māori culture and visit sites of historical and spiritual significance. Colonial history is brought to life in buildings dating to the earliest days of European settlement and in engaging museums devoted to local history and pioneering industries.

STEP BACK IN TIME

If you like period dress-ups, visit Ōamaru during its Victorian Heritage Celebrations and Napier for its Art Deco Festival.

01 Thermal Discoverer

Rotorua showcases Māori culture, and every city on this route has an excellent local-history museum.

03 East Coast Express

Ōamaru’s well-preserved Victorian precinct is a suitably Dickensian setting for a spot of time travelling.

04 Northland & the Bay of Islands

The birthplace of the nation, including NZ’s oldest buildings and the most sacred site for Māori.

TE MATATINI

The biggest showcase of Māori performing arts is Te Matatini, a fiercely contested national competition held in odd-numbered years.

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A Maori carving, Rotorua

CHRIS HOWEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

c Pacific Coast Explorer

Around the East Cape, discover Māori artistry expressed in beautifully carved and decorated buildings.

p Otago Heritage Trail

Explore gold-rush settlements and old railway bridges, then return to the Victorian streetscapes of Dunedin.

Our Picks

BEST VOLCANIC DRIVES

There’s a lot going on under New Zealand. The North Island in particular has numerous volcanoes and fascinating geothermal hot spots where steam rises, mud boils and minerals paint the ground in otherworldly colours. As a result there are dozens of places to relax with a warm, mineral-enriched soak at the end of your day’s explorations.

WHAKAARI/WHITE ISLAND

As you tour the Bay of Plenty, keep an eye out for New Zealand’s most active volcanic cone, 48km offshore.

01 Thermal Discoverer

From Auckland (53 known volcanoes and counting), tour the geothermal sights of Rotorua and Taupō.

06 Coromandel Peninsula

Soak in hot springs at Whitianga, Hot Water Beach and Athenree (near Waihi Beach).

08 Taranaki Wanderer

Circle and climb the most classically ‘volcano’ looking of all NZ’s volcanic cones.

LAKE TAUPŌ

Lake Taupō may look harmless, but it’s actually the caldera of one of the world’s most violent supervolcanoes.

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Lake Taupō

S Watson/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

09 Tongariro National Park Loop

Explore steamy Ōrākei Kōrako, soak in hot springs at Taupō, then circle three active volcanoes.

c Pacific Coast Explorer

At Mt Maunganui, climb volcanic Mauao, then soak in the hot springs at its base.

Our Picks

BEST CULINARY DRIVES

New Zealand is well known internationally as an exporter of lamb, dairy products, mānuka honey and fine wine. Hit the road and you’ll find all of that, as well as top-quality seafood (the oysters, scallops, mussels and crayfish are particularly good), game meats and a lively artisanal scene producing everything from fancy gin to truffle-infused olive oil.

PICK YOUR OWN

In summer, many roadside berry farms offer the opportunity to pick your own – a fun, family-friendly activity.

02 Kaikōura Coast

Enjoy barbecued seafood at a beachside shack en route between Marlborough and Canterbury wine regions.

07 Waiheke Island Escape

Auckland’s ‘island of wine’ also offers olive oil, oysters, gelato, and gin flavoured with local botanicals.

c Pacific Coast Explorer

Notable wine regions Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay also produce kiwifruit, berries and apples.

ROADSIDE STALLS

Roadside produce stalls with honesty boxes are a common sight on rural roads, so it pays to carry some cash.

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Crayfish with a glass of wine

JON LYALL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

d Sunshine & Wine

Visit Nelson and Marlborough wine regions, boutique breweries, farmers markets and ‘mussel capital’ Havelock.

n Central Otago Explorer

Try Central Otago’s stone fruits, Burgundy-style wine, and exemplary restaurants in Queenstown, Lake Hayes and Arrowtown.

WINE TASTING

Many NZ wineries offer tastings, usually for a small fee, which is often reimbursed if you purchase a bottle.

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Vineyards, Marlborough

JEFFREY B. BANKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

When to Go

Put simply, there’s no bad time for a New Zealand road trip. Each season has merits of its own.

Aside from the queues escaping Auckland for the beaches between Christmas and New Year, driving in summertime is extremely pleasant. Autumn brings with it the added spectacle of changing leaves, especially in the south. In winter, some high-altitude roads are prone to temporary closures during heavy snowfall and icy conditions, but there’s almost always an alternative route to take. Spring is a lovely time to drive through the reawakening countryside, with little fluffy lambs a common sight.

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Farmland with Aoraki/Mt Cook in the background

DMITRY PICHUGIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I LIVE HERE

I LOVE DRIVING HERE

Patrick Cole, truck driver

I used to be a camera operator, but a solo camping road trip helped inspire me to become a full-time driver. It was late summer, when most people had already returned to work, and I set off zigzagging down the country. The most memorable drive for me was the Canterbury approach to Arthur’s Pass. I’m a fan of winding roads – I think straight roads can be boring. At that time of year the days are still hot, but at Arthur’s Pass the morning fog gave it an eerie beauty. I found myself constantly stopping to admire the views.

Accommodation

The places most affected by seasonal price variations are the beach towns during the Christmas/January school holidays, making this the peak season for family-friendly accommodation. If beaches are on your itinerary, consider booking for February or March instead. Similarly, prices shoot up during the ski season (roughly July to September) in places such as Queenstown, Wānaka and Ohakune. City prices are less variable, but rates will increase when there’s a big event scheduled.

STORMS & SLIPS

Climate change appears to be making NZ more prone to storms. Areas likely to be cut off during bad weather include Northland, the Coromandel Peninsula and the East Coast. If a storm is predicted, take it seriously.

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WOMAD festival

ANNAWOLKENFREIPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FOLLOW THE SUN

The most consistently sunny spots in New Zealand are the Bay of Plenty and Hawke’s Bay (both in the east of the North Island), and Nelson and Marlborough (at the top of the South Island). Waiheke Island has its own dry, sunny microclimate.

THE SUBTROPICAL NORTH

Northland and Auckland both have subtropical climates, resulting in mild, wet winters and sticky summers. Surrounded by water on all sides, Auckland is especially humid. A 25°C day in Auckland can feel much more sweaty than a 32ºC day in much drier Christchurch.

THE BIG SHINDIGS

Waitangi Day New Zealand’s national day on 6 February, with Māori food and culture to the fore. February

WOMAD The World of Music and Dance attracts about 50,000 people to New Plymouth. March

Matariki Māori New Year is celebrated at the rising of the Matariki (or Pleiades) constellation. June/July

Rhythm & Vines Around 23,000 young Kiwis head to Gisborne for this three-day music festival. December

WEIRD & WONDERFUL

Bread & Circus World Buskers Festival All kinds of oddball performers take to the streets of Christchurch. January

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival Chow down on worms and hare’s testicles at Hokitika’s food fest. March

WOW – World of WearableArt Kooky costumes take centre stage in Wellington. September & October

Ōamaru Victorian Heritage Celebrations Hark back to the days when Queen Victoria sat on the throne, hems were low and collars were high. November

Weather Watch

JANUARY

Average daytime max: 23°C.

Days of rainfall: 8

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 24°C.

Days of rainfall: 7

MARCH

Average daytime max: 22°C.

Days of rainfall: 8

APRIL

Average daytime max: 20°C.

Days of rainfall: 11

MAY

Average daytime max: 18°C.

Days of rainfall: 12

JUNE

Average daytime max: 16°C.

Days of rainfall: 15

JULY

Average daytime max: 15°C.

Days of rainfall: 16

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 15°C.

Days of rainfall: 15

SEPTEMBER

Average daytime max: 17°C.

Days of rainfall: 13

OCTOBER

Average daytime max: 18°C.

Days of rainfall: 12

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 20°C.

Days of rainfall: 10

DECEMBER

Average daytime max: 22°C.

Days of rainfall: 10

Get Prepared for New Zealand

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Clothes

Swimsuit: Even if you’re travelling in winter, pack something to wear in the water as there are hot springs and heated pools all around the country.

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DENDONG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Walking shoes: You’ll get lots of mileage out of a comfortable pair of walking shoes in New Zealand. Most bushwalks can be tackled in sports shoes, although they may get muddy.

Hiking boots: If you’re contemplating a more substantial hike – particularly in the mountains, and especially in winter – a sturdy, worn-in pair of boots is a necessity.

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BPLANET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wool, fleece and waterproof layers: Essential if you’re hiking in the mountains. Temperatures can change suddenly, so it’s good to be able to layer up and down as required. Don’t even think about hiking in jeans – as soon as it rains they’ll be cold and heavy.

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ANCH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Jandals (aka flip-flops, thongs, slops): Kiwis are a casual lot, and you’ll fit right in at a backyard barbecue in a pair of jandals in summer. (The NZ name is a contraction of ‘Japanese sandals’.)

A ‘good’ set of clothes: There are very few places where you would be turned away in a tidy T-shirt and jeans, but it’s always good to have a dressy option for a fancy night out.

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NEW AFRICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Words

Many Māori words have made their way into New Zealand English and you’re bound to encounter at least some in your travels. Common greetings include kia ora (hello), mōrena (good morning) and tēnā koe (greetings to you). You’ll also hear words like aroha (love), whanau (family) and kai (food) used interchangeably with their English equivalents: ‘I’m just going out for some kai with the whanau’.

In NZ, the word ‘kiwi’ is only ever used in relation to either the flightless native bird or to mean New Zealander. It’s never used to refer to the green berry with the furry brown skin, which is a ‘kiwifruit’. If you ask for a kiwi smoothie or say you want to buy some kiwis, expect to get a strange look.

The most treasured material for Māori carving is pounamu, which is also known as ‘greenstone’ in NZ English – although you will sometimes see it called ‘jade’ in tourist shops targeting an international market.

Other ‘Kiwi-isms’ include the aforementioned ‘jandal’ (flip-flop), ‘tramp’ (hike), ‘jersey’ (sweater, jumper or pullover) and ‘bach’ (pronounced ‘batch’ as it was originally short for ‘bachelor pad’), which refers to a family holiday home that might be available to rent. In parts of the far south, ‘baches’ are known as ‘cribs’.

Another peculiarity is the tendency to try to soften a negative response with a positive one; you may hear someone say ‘yeah, nah’ when they simply mean ‘no’.

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A traditional Māori challenge

YEVGEN BELICH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WATCH

Hunt for the Wilderpeople

(Taika Waititi; 2016) Comedy adventure featuring Sam Neill going on the run in the NZ bush with his foster child.

What We Do in the Shadows

(Jemaine Clement & Taika Waititi; 2014) Wellington is overrun by bickering vampires and polite werewolves in this mockumentary.

Whale Rider

(Niki Caro; 2002) Māori culture and family life on the East Coast, with a touch of the supernatural.

Lord of the Rings trilogy

(Peter Jackson; 2001–03) NZ landscapes nearly steal the scene in this adaptation of JRR Tolkien’s classic fantasy novels.

The Piano

(Jane Campion; 1993) A piano and its owner arrive on a 19th-century NZ beach.

LISTEN

Leave Love out of This

(Anthonie Tonnon; 2021) Beautifully crafted songs by the sometime operator of Whanganui’s Durie Hill Elevator.

Reb Fountain

(Reb Fountain; 2020) Accomplished set by the smoky-toned Auckland-based singer-songwriter.

Pure Heroine

(Lorde; 2013) Breakthrough debut for an international superstar featuring several songs about Auckland.

Crowded House

(Crowded House; 1986) Debut for Neil Finn’s three piece, with a mention of Te Awamutu in the very first song.

READ

The Luminaries

(Eleanor Catton; 2013) Man Booker Prize winner set on the West Coast.

The Bone People

(Keri Hulme; 1984) Magical and disturbing, this Booker winner is set on the West Coast too.

Rangatira

(Paula Morris; 2011) Historical novel based on a true story about a group of Māori chiefs travelling to London.

Bulibasha: King of the Gypsies

(Witi Ihimaera; 1994) Gripping saga about the rivalry between two Māori sheep-shearing families.

ROAD TRIPS

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Kaikoura Coast, State Highway 1

C LEVERS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Contents

Thermal Discoverer

Kaikōura Coast (pictured)

East Coast Express

Auckland & the North

Rotorua & Central North Island

Wellington & the East Coast

Marlborough & Nelson

Canterbury & the West Coast

Queenstown & the South

01

Thermal Discoverer

BEST FOR OUTDOORS

Mountain biking through the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest.

The central North Island, around Rotorua and Taupō, might easily be considered New Zealand’s gurgling stomach. Here, the idiosyncratic landscape is punctuated by steaming, bubbling geothermal attractions – hot springs, mud pools and thermal terraces colourful enough to embarrass a rainbow – and destinations to the north and south include the fascinating Tolkien world of Hobbiton and the art deco architectural heritage of Napier, itself a reaction to a devastating earthquake in 1931.

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Link Your Trip

9 Tongariro National Park Loop

From Taupō, journey into the volcanic wonderland of the North Island’s largest national park.

12 Pacific Coast Explorer

Napier is an interesting stop on this exploration of New Zealand’s Pacific coastal fringes.

01 Auckland

Start as you mean to go on – further south, Rotorua and Taupō both have extreme activities on tap – by experiencing a more adventurous side of NZ’s biggest city. With Auckland Bridge Climb & Bungy (bungy.co.nz) there’s the option of negotiating the arches of this city landmark before taking a bungy leap of faith towards the waters of the Waitemata Harbour. The Sky Tower (skycityauckland.co.nz), at 328m, is another Auckland icon, and riding the elevator to the observation decks is trumped by the spine-tingling thrills of the SkyWalk (skywalk.co.nz) or the SkyJump (skyjump.co.nz). Alternatively, take a more sedate wander through the city exploring Auckland’s interesting waterfront.

  THE DRIVE

Depart Auckland on the Southern Motorway (SH1) and continue south for 125km to Hamilton. At times the road skirts the wide Waikato River.

02 Hamilton

One of NZ’s most bustling provincial cities, Hamilton combines excellent cafes and restaurants with a compact riverside arts and culture precinct. The interesting Waikato Museum (waikatomuseum.co.nz) has four main areas: an art gallery; interactive science galleries; Tainui galleries housing Māori