Lonely Planet Scotland

By Kay Gillespie

Lonely Planet'sScotlandis our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the country has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Get your culture fix in Edinburgh, take in astounding views from the top of Ben Nevis and sample mouth-watering whisky on Islay; all with your trusted travel companion.

InsideLonely Planet'sScotlandTravel Guide:

Lonely Planet's Top Picks- a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them

Itinerarieshelp you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs and interests
Local insightsgive you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - whether it's history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics

Eating and drinking-get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try

Toolkit- all of the planning tools for solo travellers, LGBTQIA+ travellers, family travellers and accessible travel

Colour mapsand images throughout
Language- essential phrases and language tips

Insider tipsto save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

CoversEdinburgh, Glasgow, Dundee, Angus, Aberdeen, Moray, Loch Lomond, the Hebrides, Inverness, Orkney, Shetland and more!

eBook Features: (Best viewed on tablet devices and smartphones)

Downloadable PDF and offline maps prevent roaming and data charges

Effortlessly navigate and jump between maps and reviews

Add notes to personalise your guidebook experience

Seamlessly flip between pages

Bookmarks and speedy search capabilities get you to key pages in a flash

Embedded links to recommendations' websites

Zoom-in maps and images

Inbuilt dictionary for quick referencing

About Lonely Planet:

Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures Company, is the world's number one travel guidebook brand. Providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973, Lonely Planet reaches hundreds of millions of travellers each year online and in print and helps them unlock amazing experiences. Visit us at lonelyplanet.com and join our community of followers on Facebook (facebook.com/lonelyplanet), Twitter (@lonelyplanet), Instagram (instagram.com/lonelyplanet), and TikTok (@lonelyplanet).

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Jun 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781837581818

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

SCOTLAND

MapHow To Use This eBook

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Scotland Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Edinburgh

Old Town

Holyrood & Arthur's Seat

New Town

West End & Beyond

Stockbridge

Leith

South Edinburgh

Glasgow

Central Glasgow

East End

Merchant City

Southside & the Clyde

West End

Southern Scotland

Upper Tweed Valley

Beyond the Upper Tweed Valley

Dumfries

Beyond Dumfries

Galloway Forest Park

Beyond Galloway Forest Park

Troon

Beyond Troon

Central Scotland

Stirling

Beyond Stirling

Perth

Beyond Perth

St Andrews

Beyond St Andrews

Northeast Scotland

Dundee

Beyond Dundee

Aberdeen & Royal Deeside

Beyond Aberdeen & Deeside

Speyside

Beyond Speyside

Southern Highlands & Islands

Oban

Beyond Oban

Iona

Beyond Iona

Islay

Beyond Islay

Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park

Beyond Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park

Isle of Arran

Beyond Isle of Arran

Inverness & the Central Highlands

Inverness

Beyond Inverness

Cairngorms National Park

Beyond Cairngorms National Park

Glen Coe

Beyond Glen Coe

Ben Nevis

Beyond Ben Nevis

The Road to the Isles

Beyond the Road to the Isles

Northern Highlands & Islands

Portree

Beyond Portree

Ullapool

Beyond Ullapool

Stornoway

Beyond Stornoway

Durness

Beyond Durness

Wick

Beyond Wick

Orkney & Shetland

Kirkwall

Beyond Kirkwall

Lerwick

Beyond Lerwick

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Storybook

A History of Scotland in 15 Places

Meet the Scottish

Island Identity: Bound by the Sea, Tied up in Words

Rewilding the Highlands

Glasgow's School of Rock

This Book

SCOTLAND

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

jpg

Sunset, Iona | Stephen Finn/Shutterstock ©

Scotland means so much to so many people; it's an ancestral home, a spiritual home, and a place that visitors love and connect with on a life-altering level. To me, Scotland is just home: my comfort, my calm and my adventure. I’ve found my ‘happy place’ in countless corners of the country, but there’s nowhere I feel more at peace than by the sea. I have an affinity with the Scottish Islands and the Inner Hebrides are my greatest source of escapism; where fleeting moments bring familiar feelings of pure joy. Give me soft white sand, mountain shadows and windswept hair; the smoky warmth of Islay whisky and the rousing chill of swimming in the sea. For years I imagined a life of indefinite island-hopping and sharing my stories online; a reality I am now grateful for every day. When the islands call, just go. There’s a home and a happy place for you too.

Kay Gillespie

@thechaoticscot

jpg

My favourite experience is watching the sunset from the north of Iona; waves foaming upon white sand and vivid pastel skies above the silhouette of Staffa and the Treshnish Isles.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Scotland

jpg

Flavio Vallenari/Getty Images ©

The best place to feel the pure elemental energy of the islands is at Hermaness in Unst, the most northerly point of the UK. A land where nature and landscape collide in a chattering blur of seabirds and soaring cliffs. Where puffins dance on clifftops as gannets glide overhead – there truly is no greater place on Earth.

jpg

Laurie Goodlad

@shetlandwithlaurie

Laurie is a Shetlander, travel writer, historian and tour guide, passionate about preserving the cultural heritage of Scotland’s rural and island communities. Read about Hermaness.

jpg

DiegoMariottini/Shutterstock ©

The Isle of Skye has the charcoal black and rust red Cuillin Hills, the cloudy blue sea around the Elgol Peninsula, and the evergreen of the Fairy Glen landslip. But my favourite spot glows with another colour entirely — silver-white. This is the half-secret Coral Beach, and to walk along its shore from Claigan is to see Scotland’s most popular island as few travellers do.

jpg

Mike MacEacheran

@MikeMacEacheran

Mike is an award-winning freelance travel journalist. Read more about Skye.

jpg

rphstock/Shutterstock ©

For me, no trip to Scotland is complete without a drive along the Drumbeg Loop. Which is a problem, as its location in the far northwest of Scotland means it isn’t a ‘pop in’ kind of place. However, the heart-stopping scenery along the loop – a non-stop parade of jagged mountain peaks, shimmering blue lochs and Barbados-esque white sand beaches – guarantees that the destination is always worth the journey.

jpg

Joseph Reaney

@JoeMReaney

Joseph is a travel journalist and comedy writer who divides his time between Scotland and Czechia. Read more about the Drumbeg Loop.

jpg

Barry Stuart/Shutterstock ©

Even the name grabs your attention and makes you want to go there – the Rocks of Solitude. One of my favourite walks begins by passing through a blue door in a stone wall to enter a magical woodland. The path leads along the River North Esk as it crosses the Highland Boundary Fault, passing through narrow waterfall-filled gorges to reach a secluded, swirling pool – the perfect escape.

jpg

Neil Wilson

@neil3965

Neil is a travel writer who lives in Perthshire and has covered Scotland for Lonely Planet for more than 20 years. He writes about the Rocks of Solitude.

Country Map

DRAMS & DISTILLERIES

'If you don’t like whisky, you’ve just not found the right one', says anyone with a soft spot for single malt and Scottish clichés. Derived from the Gaelic uisge beatha, meaning ‘water of life’, whisky is Scotland’s national tipple and most famous export. Tasting whisky is a rite of passage: go straight to the source and pucker up for the good stuff. When you find your favourite dram, raise your glass and say sláinte to that!

jpg

coldsnowstorm/Getty Images ©

Whisky Regions

Broken down differently depending on your source, Scotland’s whisky regions include some or all of the following: Highlands, Islands, Lowlands, Speyside, Campbeltown and Islay.

jpg

georgeclerk/Getty Images ©

Distilleries

With over 130 whisky distilleries scattered all over Scotland, it’s easy to incorporate at least one distillery tour into your itinerary.

jpg

Lochranza Distillery, Isle of Arran | Tim Graham/Getty Images ©

Tour Prices

Standard one-hour distillery tours typically cost from £15 to £20: this includes a tasting at the end. Some distilleries offer longer, more exclusive tours.

BEST WHISKY EXPERIENCES

Work your way through Islay’s 1 world-famous whiskies in search of your perfect dram on a distillery-hopping adventure around the island.

Immerse yourself in the interactive Journey of Flavour tour at Johnnie Walker Princes St 2, Edinburgh’s shiny-newest Scotch whisky experience.

Discover a trio of island distilleries from Skye to Raasay and back again: Torabhaig Distillery, Isle of Raasay Distillery and Talisker Distillery 3.

Road-trip a whisky trail around Speyside, visiting half a dozen distilleries and Speyside Cooperage 4 in one day.

Pair your single malt whisky with local handmade chocolates on the Whisky and Arran Chocolate Pairing tour at Lochranza Distillery 5.

CITY SIGHTS

While Scotland is romanticised for its wild Highland scenery, a city fix should be equally high on your list. Modern in all the right places, Scotland takes all the city buzz and bustle – events and entertainment, art and architecture – and blends them with oases of green spaces, ancient castles staged upon extinct volcanoes, and historical streets whispering secrets of the past. From the tourist hot spots to the local hang-outs, Scotland’s cities will enchant and excite.

jpg

ewg3D/Getty Images ©

Public Transport

Scotland’s eight cities are all served by both train and bus, making them easy to reach and an ideal base for day trips without a car.

jpg

bradleyhebdon/Getty Images ©

Lunch Deals

Take advantage of set menu lunch deals at the cities’ best restaurants to experience high-quality cuisine without the usual price tag.

jpg

Edinburgh | f11photo/Shutterstock ©

Festive Season

Visit in December for magical twinkling lights, mulled wine, Christmas markets and festive events, followed by the world-famous Edinburgh Hogmanay celebrations.

BEST CITY EXPERIENCES

Follow the Glasgow Mural Trail 1 to discover incredible works of street art by local artists down unassuming lanes, on gable ends and old buildings.

Watch the sunset over Edinburgh’s magical skyline from Calton Hill or the top of Arthur’s Seat 2 : both remnants of the city’s extinct volcano.

Stretch your legs in Inverness 3 with a leisurely wander along the River Ness; visit Inverness Art Gallery & Museum, Ness Islands and Inverness Cathedral.

Visit Dunfermline 4, Scotland’s newest (officially designated) city, for the final resting place of King Robert the Bruce at Dunfermline Abbey.

Sit back on the Discover Dundee 5 open-top bus tour, listen to the audio commentary guide, and hop on and off at the city’s attractions.

IDYLLIC ISLES

It's surprising to many that Scotland claims a whopping 790 islands, of which less than 90 have human residents. Each archipelago and individual island is like a whole new world: the beauty, serenity and heartening sense of community are universal, but the size, character and accessibility vary wildly. Grace their shores via tiny boats and huge ferries, over iconic and historical bridges, or across natural causeways when the tide decides. These islands are eager to be explored.

jpg

AContadini/Getty Images ©

Island-Hopping

Choose your main island/s based on your interests, how much time you have and where you will be, then research other nearby islands and day trips.

jpg

Guillermo Armero/Getty Images ©

Ferries

Vehicles and passengers should be prebooked on most ferry services; however, some shorter crossings are turn-up-and-go.

jpg

Iona coastline | northlightimages/Getty Images ©

When to Go

Most visitors flock to the islands during summer for beaches, boat trips and watersports. Go in autumn or winter for stargazing, fireside drams and bracing coastal walks.

BEST ISLAND EXPERIENCES

Slow down and explore Iona’s 1 serene coastline, from secluded bays to beaches of pure white sand and turquoise sea.

Cast your eyes upon the night skies on the Isle of Coll 2, a designated Dark Sky Community and dreamworld for stargazers.

Escape to Shetland’s most southerly island, the remote Fair Isle 3, for bird watching, coastal hikes, famous knitwear and solitude.

Embark on a self-guided, island-wide food tour of Arran 4, sampling the island’s outstanding local produce, home baking and seafood.

Travel on the famous flight from Glasgow to Barra 5, touching down on the smooth sands of Traigh Mhòr: the world’s only scheduled beach landing.

CONQUERING CASTLES

Castles have become an unofficial emblem of Scotland, unapologetically stereotypical yet undeniably appealing and evocative. Scottish dreams are made of these: from the showy, ‘look-at-me’ stately homes, which still retain their original opulence, to the brutishly impenetrable fortresses – forever impressive, even in partial ruin. Failure to visit at least one castle would be almost criminal.

jpg

Dunrobin Castle | essevu/Shutterstock ©

Entry Fees

Admission usually costs from £10 to £15. Alternatively, you can just photograph them from outside or visit smaller, ruined castles that are free to roam.

Seasonal Hours

Many attractions close during the quieter months or operate on reduced hours: check online before you visit. Stirling Castle and Edinburgh Castle stay open year-round.

BEST CASTLE EXPERIENCES

Join a guided tour or visit the Castle Exhibition at the imposing Stirling Castle 1 to understand its hugely significant role in Scottish history.

Soak in the grandeur of Culzean Castle 2 and its vast surrounds.

Explore Dunrobin Castle 3, with its lavish interior and magnificent gardens, hosting daily falconry displays.

Discover the impressive ruins of Gylen Castle 4, overlooking the sea near Kerrera Tea Garden.

Trace the Aberdeenshire coast from Stonehaven Harbour to Dunnottar Castle 5, a dramatic ruin on dizzying cliffs.

PUFFINS, DOLPHINS & DEER

Scotland’s land, sea and sky are home-sweet-home to an abundance of wonderful wildlife species, from native birds and mammals to the swathe of nesting seabirds and migrating marine life that visit every year. Observe and photograph them on uninhabited islands, quiet shorelines, by the roadside or from a boat: always in awe of their presence.

jpg

Duncan JM Fraser/Shutterstock ©

Puffin Season

Thousands of seabirds come to Scotland for their summer holidays to breed and nest. The best time to see them is from May to July.

jpg

Jaime Pharr/Shutterstock ©

Wildlife Photography

For quality, close-up shots of Scottish wildlife, invest in a zoom lens (200mm and above): buy secondhand to save money.

Enjoy from Afar

Always keep your distance and do not feed wild animals. Stick to paths to avoid damaging any nests or habitats.

BEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES

Get up close to adorable, comical puffins on a boat trip from Mull or Iona to Staffa 1.

Look out for majestic stags on the Isle of Jura 2; there are over 4000 red deer on the island.

Search for sea eagles soaring overhead and swooping down to grab fish from the water on the Sea Eagle Adventure Trip 3 with Mull Charters.

Explore the coastline in Unst 4 on a guided tour with Shetland Nature for a chance to catch a glimpse of the elusive Eurasian otters.

Go dolphin spotting along the Moray Firth at the Scottish Dolphin Centre in Spey Bay, or at Chanonry Point 5 on the other side.

PEAKS & TRAILS

Scotland’s good looks didn’t happen overnight – they've been millions of years in the making. Instigated by volcanic activity, peaked giants and half-pipe glens were chiselled to scenic perfection by glaciers, and the contours of the coast shaped by the constant force of the sea. Across these landscapes, you’ll find a countrywide network of walking trails, from low level and long distance to mighty mountain heights; 3000ft (914.4m) and above is classified as a Munro and there are 282 to summit.

jpg

lucentius/Getty Images ©

Plan Your Route

Use apps or online resources like WalkHighlands (walkhighlands.co.uk); screenshot or download the route map and description before you set off.

jpg

Empato/Getty Images ©

Hiking Gear

Prepare for all weathers: pack layers, waterproofs, plenty of water, and midge repellent for spring and summer. Hiking boots are essential for hill walking.

jpg

Buachaille Etive Mòr, West Highland Way | Westend61/Getty Images ©

Guides & Transfers

Various companies offer group hikes and private guided hikes. For long-distance walks, packages including accommodation and baggage transfers are available.

BEST HIKING EXPERIENCES

Summit the highest mountain in the UK, the mighty Ben Nevis 1: a long and challenging hike with epic scenery.

Complete Scotland’s best-known long-distance walking route, the 96-mile West Highland Way 2, taking in some of the country’s most beautiful landscapes.

Tick off a trio of iconic island mountains on a guided day hike up the Paps of Jura 3 with a local at Jura Guided.

Stay close to the coast and discover waterfalls, castles and caves along the multiday Arran Coastal Way 4.

Take a clifftop walk from Rackwick Bay on Orkney’s Isle of Hoy to the famously striking sea stack, the Old Man of Hoy 5.

TIME TRAVEL

To instantly blow and boggle the mind, simply try to comprehend the interminable timeline of Scotland’s human history. Delve into 4000-year-old mysteries and layers of history: wander through prehistoric villages and ponder the lives of the people who settled there; step into stone circles and burial cairns, positioned in tune with the sun, moon and stars. Where your imagination or attention span fails, let a local guide fill in the gaps and supply the fascinating facts.

jpg

Arterra/Universal Images Group via Getty Images ©

Passes

If you are planning to visit multiple Historic Scotland sites, buy an Explorer Pass to save money: it is valid for seven consecutive days.

jpg

AndrewJShearer/Getty Images ©

Special Events

Scotland’s historical venues play host to events throughout the year. Check the individual websites for after-hours tours, guided walks, light shows and family fun.

jpg

Callanish Standing Stones | theasis/Getty Images ©

Midsummer

People gather at sunrise and sunset to celebrate the summer solstice at the famous standing stones on the Northern Isles and Outer Hebrides.

BEST PREHISTORIC EXPERIENCES

Explore a close-knit cluster of prehistoric attractions in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney 1, a Unesco World Heritage Site, including Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar.

Discover towering stone slabs, low-lying stone circles and burial cists in open moorland on the Isle of Arran at Machrie Moor Standing Stones 2.

Cycle through 5000 years of history on a 40-mile self-guided bike tour around Lewis, visiting Dun Carloway Iron Age broch and Callanish Standing Stones 3.

Visit the atmospheric chambered cairns, standing stones and burial monuments at Clava Cairns 4, set amid a peaceful woodland near Inverness.

Take a boat trip to the uninhabited island of Mousa and marvel at the magnificent 2000-year-old Mousa Broch 5, the best-preserved of its kind.

HIT THE ROAD

Did someone say, road trip? Forget long, tedious drives from A to B – this is Scotland! Every route is rewarded with fresh sights and a constant shift in the lay of the land: countryside and coastline; motorways, mountains and moorland; steep ascents and single-track roads. Fall in love with the journeys; the final destinations can wait.

jpg

Golden Road, Harris | Westend61/Getty Images ©

Car Hire

Pick up your car at the airport or in one of the cities: it is possible to drop it off in a different location.

Passing Places

It is important to understand the use of passing places on single-track roads: pull into them to avoid oncoming vehicles and to allow overtaking.

BEST ROAD TRIP EXPERIENCES

Drive a loop of Harris 1for mountains, lunar-like landscapes and paradise beaches, from the Golden Road to the breathtaking west coast.

Take your Rhinns of Galloway 2 road trip all the way to Scotland’s most southwesterly extreme – Mull of Galloway Lighthouse and its jaw-droppingly dramatic location.

Follow the Isle of Mull’s less-driven west coast from Tobermory to Fionnphort 3; a slow and scenic drive of tight corners and vast seascapes.

Blaze a 66-mile trail around the remote Kintyre peninsula on the Kintyre 66 4.

COASTAL CHARM

Bejewelled with historical harbours, cute cottages, vivid splashes of colour and well-worn cobbles, Scotland’s seaside settlements are a treat for the eyes – and your camera. Create your own postcard pictures in quaint fishing villages and bustling port towns, where the history, industry and character are influenced by a close and unbreakable bond with the sea.

jpg

Tobermory | Lasse Johansson/Shutterstock ©

Boat Tours

During the summer months, boat trips depart from ports and harbours all over the country for wildlife watching and island day trips.

Seaside Treats

Regardless of the weather, days by the sea are meant for eating fish and chips and ice cream by the water.

BEST SEASIDE EXPERIENCES

Browse the local shops, walk to Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse, and photograph the rainbow-coloured facades in Tobermory 1, Scotland’s prettiest port town.

Soak up the seaside vibes with mountain vistas in Ullapool; feast on local seafood at the Seafood Shack 2.

Fall in love with the chocolate-box conservation village of Culross 4, a 17th-century time capsule that starred as Cranesmuir in the Outlander TV series.

FESTIVALS & MUSIC

The Scots are a nation of people who know how to throw a good party, and there is always something to celebrate: culture, heritage, traditions or just…the weekend! Across the country, the year-round event calendar is speckled with song, dance, sailing, comedy, games and fire: held under the elusive summer sun, through the dark depths of winter and in packed-out pubs. Make new pals with friendly locals and immerse yourself in Scotland-style celebrations.

jpg

Jeff J Mitchell/Getty Images ©

Plan Ahead

As soon as the dates are announced for a popular festival or event, book your tickets and accommodation to avoid missing out.

jpg

Jim Grant/Shutterstock ©

Island Festivals

During summer, the Scottish islands host some of the best folk music festivals in Scotland, and the party usually starts on the ferry!

jpg

Edinburgh Festival Fringe | Robbie Jack-Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images ©

Live Music

Listen to history passed down through Gaelic song, enjoy toe-tapping tunes in a local pub, and dance until you’re dizzy at a traditional ceilidh.

BEST FESTIVAL & MUSIC EXPERIENCES

Experience the world-famous Edinburgh Festival Fringe 1, where on-street stages and city venues come alive with comedy, music, theatre and dance.

Brace yourself for the fiery festivities at Up Helly Aa 2 in Lerwick: Vikings, live music and a replica longship set alight with 1000 torches.

Put on your dancing shoes for a Ceilidh Night 3 at The View in Oban and party the traditional Scottish way.

Enjoy a maritime celebration of sailing, rowing, crafts and music at the Scottish Traditional Boat Festival 4, held around the 17th-century harbour in Portsoy.

Get stuck into Glasgow’s live music scene 5, from buskers on the street and gigs every night of the week to regular big-name concerts.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

jpg

ITINERARIES

Highlights of Scotland

jpg

Allow: 2 weeks

Distance: 900+ miles

This epic road trip is an adventure to all the extremes; from the best city sights and scenic Highland highlights, to blow-your-mind beaches and awe-inspiring islands. Every journey reveals new landscapes, experiences and cultural gems, capturing the very best of what Scotland has to offer, and leaving you longing for more.

jpg

1 EDINBURGH 2 DAYS

Begin in Edinburgh and spend a couple of days exploring the capital: tread the cobbles of the enchanting Old Town, discover historic attractions and traditional pubs, climb an extinct volcano and delve into tales of the city’s dark past on a tour of the ghostly underground vaults.

Pick up your hire car in Edinburgh city centre on the morning you leave for the 3¼-hour drive to Inverness.

2 INVERNESS 2 DAYS

Inverness is a compact city, but one night will feel rushed. Visit Culloden Battlefield and the nearby Bronze Age standing stones and burial cairns. Go ‘Nessie’ hunting on a Loch Ness boat trip, and cycle or walk the River Ness for city sights and pretty islands. By night, it’s Scottish cuisine, whisky and live music.

3 DURNESS 2 DAYS

Journey to the most northerly village in Scotland, Durness, an idyllic base to explore part of the North Coast 500’s top edge: nonstop paradise beaches, dramatic coastline, spectacular drives, and Britain’s highest cliffs at Cape Wrath.

Detour: Hike to the far-flung Sandwood Bay, near Durness; a truly rewarding walk to one of the UK’s most remote and beautiful beaches. 4½ hours

4 ULLAPOOL 1 DAY

Enjoy the mountains and sea and the taste of fresh seafood or fish and chips in Ullapool, fishing village and ferry port for the Outer Hebrides. Relax by the shores of Loch Broom, browse the independent shops, or go for a hike.

Detour: On the way to Ullapool drive the single-track Drumbeg Loop for jaw-dropping scenery and white-sand beaches. 1½ hours

5 LEWIS & HARRIS 3 DAYS

Catch the ferry to Stornoway to begin your Outer Hebrides adventure, from the cultural sights of Lewis in the north to the contrasting landscapes of Harris in the south: ancient standing stones and monuments, traditional blackhouses, looming mountain peaks, pristine beaches and the famous tweed.

Detour: Book a boat trip from Leverburgh (Harris) to the hauntingly isolated and exposed island of St Kilda. full day

6 SKYE 2 DAYS

Journey from Tarbert (Harris) over the sea to Skye to discover the magical sights: striking rock formations, otherworldly landscapes, entrancing waterfalls and a picturesque, colourful harbour. Book a boat trip, kayak the coast, hike the Quiraing and sample the island whisky.

Detour: Hop on the 25-minute ferry crossing from Sconser (Skye) to Raasay for a tour of Isle of Raasay Distillery. 3 hours

7 GLENCOE 2 DAYS

Back on the mainland, drive south on the Road to the Isles, passing west coast beaches and the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct. From Glen Coe, experience some of the most evocative history and scenery in the Highlands, epitomised by the landscape of Glen Coe itself.

Detour: Drive over the Skye Bridge to visit the romantic Eilean Donan Castle before returning to Skye for the ferry from Armadale. 1 hour

jpg

Buachaille Etive Mòr, Glen Coe | andy morehouse/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Island Hopscotch

jpg

Allow: 10 days

Distance: 400+ miles

Cast off and let your worries slip away, on an island-hopping extravaganza around the Inner Hebrides, visiting up to six islands in just one trip. Bike, hike or paddle: sample local seafood, go wildlife watching, breeze around the beaches, and fill your lungs with fresh sea air on the many ferry journeys.

jpg

1 GLASGOW 1 DAY

Glasgow is the starting point for your west coast road trip, but be sure to spend at least one day getting to know the city first. Expect striking street art, museums aplenty, fantastic food, whisky bars, a vibrant music scene and the oldest cathedral in Scotland.

2 INVERARAY 2 HOURS

Go west, stopping in Luss on the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, then take the super-scenic route to the Rest and Be Thankful viewpoint and onwards to Inveraray. Stop here for lunch, views of Loch Fyne and a history fix at the town jail or enchanting castle.

3 OBAN 2 DAYS

Welcome to Oban, ‘Gateway to the Isles’ and ‘Seafood Capital of the UK’. Stroll the seafront, hike to the iconic hilltop monument, explore castles and hit the town for live music and ceilidh dancing. Food has to be fish and chips or seafood by the pier.

Detour: Catch the 55-minute ferry from Oban to Lismore or five-minute ferry from Gallanach to Kerrera. full/half day

4 ISLE OF IONA 2 DAYS

Leave the car at Fionnphort (Mull) and hop across to Iona to slow down and recharge your soul batteries. Explore on foot or by bike: shop for local crafts and soak in the sacred sights, airbrushed beach scenes and complete tranquillity. Take a boat trip from Iona to the Isle of Staffa for Fingal’s Cave, puffins in summertime and dolphin spotting on the journey.

jpg

White Strand of the Monks, Iona | Justine Kibler/Shutterstock ©

5 ISLE OF MULL 3 DAYS

Mull is a road-trip dream come true. Follow the dramatic west coast, chasing waterfalls and mountain views, looking for sea eagles overhead and otters by the shoreline. Colourful buildings, independent shops, cosy pubs and coastal walks await in Tobermory.

Detour: Hop on the tiny passenger ferry from Ulva Ferry (Mull) to the Isle of Ulva for a seafood lunch at the Boathouse. 1 hour

6 ARDNAMURCHAN 1 DAY

From Tobermory, return to the mainland via Ardnamurchan. Wildly rugged and winding roads lead through the crater of an extinct volcano to the most westerly point on the UK mainland, marked by the pinnacle of Ardnamurchan Lighthouse. Don’t miss a stop at breathtaking Sanna Bay.

7 FORT WILLIAM 2 DAYS

Finish your road trip with a couple of days in the Highlands, based around Fort William, ‘Outdoor Capital of the UK’. Ride a famous steam train or a mountain gondola, climb the highest mountain in the UK or walk to the second-largest waterfall in Scotland.

jpg

Cloud77/Getty Images ©

ITINERARIES

Eastern Railway

jpg

Allow: 7 Days

Distance: 210+ miles

Take a self-guided tour of Scotland’s east coast, using only public transport. Sit back and enjoy the views outside, as you discover a new destination each day, on a series of relaxing journeys by train and bus. Experience charming towns and fishing villages, historical sights, contrasting cities and coastal walks.

jpgjpg

Crail | Andrea Pistolesi/Getty Images ©

1 EDINBURGH 2 DAYS

Once you’ve thoroughly explored the city sights of Edinburgh, consider escaping the touristy Old Town and take Lothian bus 37 (55 minutes) to Rosslyn Chapel. Admire the ornate stone carvings and investigate theories of the Knights Templar and the Holy Grail.

Train from Edinburgh Waverley to Leuchars (1 hour), where a bus service travels to St Andrews (10 minutes)

jpg

Misty River/Shutterstock ©

2 ST ANDREWS 1 DAY

Explore St Andrews, famed as the ‘home of golf’, with its world-renowned Old Course and the oldest university in Scotland. Sample the local produce on a food tour, walk along the gorgeous beaches and wander through ruins of an ancient castle and what was once Scotland’s largest cathedral.

Take a day trip to the East Neuk of Fife by Stagecoach Bus (1 hour)

jpg

David Cannon/Getty Images ©

3 EAST NEUK OF FIFE 1 Day

Walk the Fife Coastal Path and discover a string of fishing villages with picturesque harbours along the way. Begin in Elie for the 11-mile route to Crail, passing through St Monans, Pittenweem and Anstruther, stopping for fish and chips, ice cream and/or hot chocolate. For a shorter walk, choose individual sections and hop off the bus earlier.

Bus to St Andrews (1 hour), then to Dundee (25 minutes)

jpg

e55evu/Getty Images ©

4 DUNDEE 1 DAY

From St Andrews, catch the bus to the underdog city of Dundee. Locate the main sights and learn about the city’s history and famous industries on an open-top bus tour; visit the galleries, museums and an iconic ship, and look across the River Tay from the highest point.

Train to Stoneheaven (55 minutes)

jpg

Ferne Arfin/Shutterstock ©

5 STONEHAVEN 1 DAY

In the seaside town of Stone-haven, head down to the harbour, stopping for ice cream along the way. Take a clifftop walk from the harbour to the remarkable ruins of Dunnottar Castle. Return to the town for seafood, pubs and fish and chips.

Return to Dundee then train to Stirling (1 hour)

Detour: Venture 20 minutes by train from Stonehaven to Aberdeen to explore maritime history. 4 hours

jpg

Tomasz Wozniak/Shutterstock ©

6 STIRLING 1 DAY

Before returning to Edinburgh, first take the train to Stirling for the day; luggage storage is available at Radical Storage (radicalstorage.com), five minutes from the station. Head uphill through the Old Town to visit Stirling Castle and if time and energy permit, catch bus 51 or 52 for the hike up to the Wallace Monument.

Train to Edinburgh (50 minutes)

jpg

T.W. van Urk/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Southern Explorer

jpg

Allow: 5 days

Distance: 400+ miles

Take a whirlwind road trip to southern Scotland; a journey in the opposite direction from the majority of tourists. Experience the far-flung, fiercely dramatic southwest coast and the historical Borders region, interspersed with forests, picturesque towns, rolling hills, ruined abbeys and lonely lighthouses.

jpg

1 GLASGOW 1 DAY

After a day or two in Glasgow, set off for the southwest, taking the coastal road through Ayrshire for views across the Firth of Clyde to the volcanic plug of Ailsa Craig; break up the journey with a stop at Culzean Castle, then continue towards Dumfries and Galloway.

jpg

Ion Mes/Shutterstock ©

2 RHINS OF GALLOWAY 1 Day

Discover the Rhins of Galloway peninsula: Portpatrick harbour, glorious gardens, deserted beaches and Scotland’s most southerly point, Mull of Galloway, for sea cliffs, the famous lighthouse and views to Ireland, Cumbria and the Isle of Man.

Detour: Walk the coastal path from Portpatrick to the ruins of Dunskey Castle or to Killantringan Lighthouse. 1 hour, 4 hours

jpg

Richard P Long/Shutterstock ©

3 GALLOWAY FOREST PARK 1 DAY

By day, hit the hiking or biking trails in Galloway Forest Park or explore the area's charming towns: bookshops and cafes in Wigtown and colourful Kirkcudbright on the Solway Coast. By night, it's eyes on the night skies with stargazing in the forest park, a designated Dark Sky Park.

jpg

travellinglight/Alamy Stock Photo ©

4 DUMFRIES 3 hours

Stop in Dumfries to follow in the footsteps of Scotland’s national bard, Robert Burns. Step inside the house where he spent his final years, have lunch in his favourite pub and visit the Robert Burns Centre to learn about his life, before continuing through the stunning Ettrick and Yarrow Valley.

Detour: Explore the moated, uniquely triangular Caerlaverock Castle, just outside Dumfries.  1½ hours

jpg

RDImages/Epics/Getty Images ©

5 MELROSE 2 DAYS

Spend a few days discovering the Borders Abbeys and the delightful Borders towns and villages of Melrose, Dryburgh, Jedburgh and Kelso; learn about their rich heritage and roam the gorgeous landscapes. Visit Abbotsford House (the former home of Sir Walter Scott) and the nearby Floors Castle.

Detour: Head for St Abbs Head National Nature Reserve, Coldingham Bay and Eyemouth. 6 hours

jpg

Sue Leonard Photography/Shutterstock ©

6 UPPER TWEED VALLEY 6 hours

Return to the Central Belt via the Upper Tweed Valley, where a vibrant adventure scene and world-class mountain-biking trails sprawl out around the mighty River Tweed. Finish with a relaxing or enlivening afternoon in nature and one last history-fix at Traquair House, the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, near Peebles.

jpg

SilvanBachmann/Getty Images ©

WHEN TO GO

Answer: You decide. Scotland is a year-round destination, where each

Reviews for Lonely Planet Scotland

[trile1000 · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

Great reference and very useful for the Scotland portion of our Great Britain trip. Love the colors and pull-out map of Edinburgh. Very detailed and quite comprehensive.