Lonely Planet Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland Road Trips

By Neil Wilson and Clifton Wilkinson

Lonely Planet: The world's number one travel guide publisher

Whether exploring your own backyard or somewhere new, discover the freedom of the open road with Lonely Planet's Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland's Best Trips. Featuring amazing road trips, plus up-to-date advice on the destinations you'll visit along the way, you can explore the Ring of Kerry, the castles of Killarney and West Cork villages - all with your trusted travel companion. Jump in the car, turn up the tunes, and hit the road!

Inside Lonely Planet's Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland's Best Trips:

• Lavish colour and gorgeous photography throughout
• Itineraries and planning advice to pick the right tailored routes for your needs and interests
• Get around easily - easy-to-read, full-colour route maps and detailed directions
• Insider tips to get around like a local, avoid trouble spots and be safe on the road - local driving rules, parking, toll roads
• Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, prices
• Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sight-seeing, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
• Useful features - including Stretch Your Legs, Detours, Link Your Trip
• Covers Cork, Kerry, Killarney and more

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland's Best Trips is perfect for exploring southwest Ireland by road.

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company and the world's number one travel guidebook brand, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, video, 14 languages, nine international magazines, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more.

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' - New York Times

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves, it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' - Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Mar 1, 2020
• ISBN: 9781838690229

Neil Wilson

Twenty years in London advertising as a senior board executive. Circumnavigated the world. "Retired" to write full time. Married, living in SW Florida & London. Travel (a lot!)

Book preview

cover.jpgfull page image for How to Use This eBookfull page image for Languagebutton

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland

Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland Map

Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland Highlights

Cork City Guide

Need to Know

ROAD TRIPS

1 Southwest Blitz 4 Days

2 Ring of Kerry 4 Days

3 Dingle Peninsula 3–4 Days

4 Shannon River Route 4 Days

DESTINATIONS

COUNTY CORK

Cork City

City Centre & Around

Western Road & Around

Around Cork City

Blarney Castle

Fota Island

Cobh

Midleton & Around

Youghal

Stretch Your Legs Cork City

COUNTY KERRY

Killarney

Around Killarney

Killarney National Park

Gap of Dunloe

Ring of Kerry

Killorglin

Caherdaniel

Kenmare

Dingle Peninsula

Dingle Town

Northern Kerry

Tralee

COUNTY LIMERICK

Limerick City

Adare & Around

Lough Gur

Kilmallock & Around

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

Ireland Driving Guide

Driving Licence & Documents

Insurance

Hiring a Car

Bringing Your Own Vehicle

Maps

Roads Conditions

Road Rules

Parking

Fuel

Safety

Border Crossings

Radio

Ireland Travel Guide

Getting There & Away

Air

Sea

Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Electricity

Food

LGBTQI+ Travellers

Health

Internet Access

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

WELCOME TO CORK, KERRY & SOUTHWEST IRELAND

The Southwest contains some of Ireland’s most iconic scenery: crenulated coastlines, green fields crisscrossed by tumbledown stone walls, and mist-shrouded mountain peaks and bogs.

    This idyllic area claims some of the country’s top peninsula drives – the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula – as well as a shoal of charming fishing towns and villages that have helped establish the southwest as a gourmet heartland, fanning out from the country’s spirited second-largest city, Cork.

    The region’s exquisite beauty makes it one of Ireland’s most popular tourist destinations, but there’s always an isolated cove or untrodden trail to discover along its roads.

GettyRF_866652506-jpg

Dingle Peninsula

Driving the Wild Atlantic Way

MAYDAYS/GETTY IMAGES ©

full page image for Country Map

CORK, KERRY & SOUTHWEST IRELAND HIGHLIGHTS

Dingle Peninsula

This rocky, striated land has a history as compelling as its beauty, prehistoric monuments, scenic spots and fabulous pubs. See it on Trip 3

shutterstockRF_468985766-jpg

TYLER W. STIPP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cork

An appealing waterfront location, some of the best food you’ll find, lively craic and a liberal, youthful and cosmopolitan dynamic make Cork hard to resist. See it on Trip 1

shutterstockRF_488315419-jpg

MADRUGADA VERDE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ring of Kerry

Yes, it’s popular. And yes, it’s always choked with bus traffic, especially in summer. But there are 1000 reasons why the Ring of Kerry is the tourist charm bracelet it is. See it on Trip 2

GettyRF_146249493-jpg

JORG GREUEL/GETTY IMAGES ©

CITY GUIDE

shutterstockRF_269273822-jpg

English Market

Cork’s produce market

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CORK CITY

The Republic of Ireland’s second city is second only to Dublin in size; in every other respect it considers itself equal to Dublin (or even better). Great restaurants, top-class galleries and a vibrant pub scene lend credence to its claim, while the people are as friendly and welcoming as you’ll find anywhere.

Getting Around

Cork’s compact centre and easy-to-follow one-way system makes driving a relatively hassle-free experience.

Parking

Streetside parking requires scratch-card parking discs (€2 per hour), obtained from the tourist office and some newsagencies. There are several signposted car parks around the central area, with charges of €2 per hour and €12 overnight.

Where to Eat

The narrow pedestrianised streets north of St Patrick’s St are packed with cafes and restaurants, and the place hops day and night. The English Market is the place for great produce and outstanding daytime eats.

Where to Stay

Base yourself in town, as close to St Patrick’s St and the South Mall as possible. Once you’ve exhausted the warren of streets between these two locations, venture west across the Lee and wander up to Shandon, where Corkonians regularly take refuge from the city below.

TOP EXPERIENCES

A Look Upon Cork

Wander up through Shandon and explore the galleries, antique shops and cafes of the city’s prettiest neighbourhood, perched on a hill on the northern side of town.

A Eyeball the Best of Irish Art

The Crawford Municipal Art Gallery is small, but it’s packed with great art by such top Irish names as Jack B Yeats, Nathaniel Hone, Sir John Lavery and Mainie Jellett.

A Indulge Your Taste Buds

Cork’s foodie scene is made famous by its collection of terrific restaurants, but don’t forget the splendid Victorian English Market.

A Have a Night on the Town

Atmospheric old pubs, buzzing music venues and a well-respected theatre scene make for a memorable night.

Useful Websites

Cork City Tourism (www.cometocork.com) Sights, accommodation bookings, discounts.

People’s Republic of Cork (www.peoplesrepublicofcork.com) Indie guide to what’s on in Cork.

WhazOn? (www.whazon.com) Comprehensive entertainment listings.

Trips Through Cork City Trip 1

Destination Coverage: here

NEED TO KNOW

CURRENCY

Euro (€)

LANGUAGES

English, Irish

VISAS

Not required by most citizens of Europe, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Canada.

FUEL

Petrol (gas) stations are everywhere, but are limited on motorways. Expect to pay €1.35 per litre of unleaded (€1.25 for diesel).

RENTAL CARS

Avis (www.avis.ie)

Europcar (www.europcar.ie)

Hertz (www.hertz.ie)

Thrifty (www.thrifty.ie)

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Country code ( iconphonegif 353)

Emergencies ( iconphonegif 999)

Roadside Assistance ( iconphonegif 1800 667 788)

When to Go

Climate

04-climate-tr-csi1-jpg

High Season (Jun–mid-Sep)

A Weather at its best.

A Accommodation rates at their highest (especially in August).

A Tourist peak in Dublin, Kerry and southern and western coasts.

Shoulder (Easter–May, mid-Sep–Oct)

A Weather often good: sun and rain in May, often-warm ‘Indian summers’ in September.

A Summer crowds and accommodation rates drop off.

Low Season (Nov–Easter)

A Reduced opening hours from October to Easter; some destinations close.

A Cold and wet weather throughout the country; fog can reduce visibility.

A Big city attractions operate as normal.

Your Daily Budget

Budget: Less than €60

A Dorm bed: €12–20

A Cheap meal in cafe or pub: €6–12

A Pint: €4.50–5 (more in cities)

Midrange: €60–150

A Double room in hotel or B&B: €80–180 (more in Dublin)

A Main course in midrange restaurant: €12–25

A Car rental (per day): €25-45

Top End: More than€€150

A Four-star hotel stay: from €150

A Three-course meal in good restaurant: around €50

A Top round of golf from €90

Eating

Restaurants From cheap cafes to Michelin-starred feasts, covering every imaginable cuisine.

Cafes Cafes are good for all-day breakfasts, sandwiches and basic dishes.

Pubs Pub grub ranges from toasted sandwiches to carefully crafted dishes.

Hotels All hotel restaurants take nonguests. A popular option in the countryside.

Eating price indicators represent the cost of a main dish:

Eating costs

€ less than €12

€€ €12–25

€€€ more than €25

Sleeping

Hotels From chain hotels with comfortable digs to Norman castles with rainfall shower rooms and wi-fi.

B&Bs From a bedroom in a private home to a luxurious Georgian townhouse.

Hostels Every major town and city has a selection of hostels, with clean dorms and wi-fi. Some have laundry and kitchen.

Sleeping price indicators represent the cost of a double room in high season:

Sleeping costs

€ less than €80

€€ €80–180

€€€ more than €180

Arriving in Ireland

Dublin Airport

Rental cars Rental agencies have offices at the airport.

Taxis Taxis to the city take 30 to 45 minutes and cost €25 to €30.

Buses Private coaches run every 10 to 15 minutes to the city centre (€6).

Cork Airport

Rental cars There are car-hire desks for all the main companies.

Taxis A taxi to/from town costs €22 to €26.

Bus Every half hour between 6am and 10pm to the train station and bus station (€2.80).

Dun Laoghaire Ferry Port

Train DART (suburban rail) takes about 25 minutes to the centre of Dublin.

Bus Public bus takes around 45 minutes to the centre of Dublin.

Mobile Phones

All European and Australasian phones work in Ireland, as do North American phones not locked to a local network. Check with your provider. Prepaid SIM cards cost from €10.

Internet Access

Wi-fi and 3G/4G networks are making internet cafes largely redundant. Most accommodation places have free wi-fi, or a daily charge (up to €10).

Money

ATMs are widely available. Credit and debit cards can be used in most places, but check first.

Tipping

Not obligatory, but 10% to 15% in restaurants; €1 per bag for hotel porters.

Useful Websites

Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainment.ie) Countrywide listings.

Failte Ireland (www.discoverireland.ie) Official tourist-board website for the Republic.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland, www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland/northern-ireland) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

For more, see Road Trip Essentials.

Road Trips

05-road-trips-loc-tr-csi1-jpg

1 Southwest Blitz, 4 Days

Blitz the best of southwest Ireland’s coast, countryside and cosmopolitan city life.

2 Ring of Kerry, 4 Days

Weave past jaw-dropping scenery as you circumnavigate the Iveragh Peninsula.

3 Dingle Peninsula, 3–4 Days

Dingle’s ancient landscape is ringed by quaint fishing villages and spectacular beaches.

4 Shannon River Route, 4 Days

Meander alongside Ireland’s mightiest river and get out on the water too.

shutterstockRF_394557733-jpg

Dingle Peninsula

Connor Pass

ROLF G WACKENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Southwest Blitz

Killarney

Killorglin

Cahersiveen

Caherdaniel

Kenmare

Bantry

Cork City

Fota Wildlife Park

Cobh

Midleton

Youghal

Dungarvan

SOUTHWEST BLITZ

map-trip-1

Catch the very best of Ireland’s southwest along this classic route as it curls from Killarney around the Ring of Kerry coast and across County Cork’s lush countryside to charming Dungarvan.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

06-southwest-blitz-high-tr-csi1-jpg

4 DAYS

369KM / 229 MILES

GREAT FOR…

icon-wine icon-book icon-tree

BEST TIME TO GO

Late spring and early autumn for the best weather and manageable crowds.

iconphotogif ESSENTIAL PHOTO

The view from Beenarourke across rocky coastline and scattered islands.

iconcheckgif BEST FOR FAMILIES

Ride the train or stroll around animal-filled Fota Wildlife Park.

GettyImages-997463758-jpg

Beenarourke

A high point along the Ring of Kerry

THOMAS H. MITCHELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Southwest Blitz

This drive around the country’s stunning southwest conjures up iconic impressions of Ireland: soaring stone castles, dizzying sea cliffs, wide, sandy beaches, crystal-clear lakes, dense woodlands and boat-filled harbours. Villages you’ll encounter en route spill over with brightly painted buildings, vibrant markets and cosy pubs with toe-tapping live music, perfectly poured pints and fantastic craic.

06-southwest-blitz-tr-csi1-jpg

Top of Chapter

1 Killarney

Killarney’s biggest attraction, in every sense, is Killarney National Park, with magnificent Muckross Estate at its heart. If you’re not doing the classic Ring of Kerry route that brings you through the park, you should definitely consider a detour here. Right in town, there are pedestrian entrances to the park opposite St Mary’s Cathedral (www.killarneyparish.com; Cathedral Pl; iconhoursgif 8am-6.30pm), a superb example of neo-Gothic revival architecture, built between 1842 and 1855.

Also worth a visit in the town centre is the 1860s Franciscan Friary (www.franciscans.ie; Fair Hill; iconhoursgif 8am-8pm), with an ornate Flemish-style altarpiece, some impressive tilework and, most notably, stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke. The Dublin artist’s organic style was influenced by art nouveau, art deco and symbolism.

Plunkett and College Sts are lined with pubs; behind leaded-glass doors, tiny traditional O’Connor’s (www.oconnorstraditionalpub.ie; 7 High St; iconhoursgif noon-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 12.30am Fri & Sat; iconwifigif ) is one of Killarney’s most popular haunts, with live music every night.

The Drive » It’s 22km west to Killorglin on the N72. To visit the too-gorgeous-for-words Gap of Dunloe, after 5km turn south onto Gap Rd and follow it for 3km to Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where many drivers park in order to walk up to the Gap. You can also hire ponies and jaunting cars here (bring cash).

Top of Chapter

2 Killorglin

Unless you’re here during mid-August’s ancient Puck Fair, the main reason to pause at the pretty riverside town of Killorglin (Cill Orglan) is its excellent selection of eateries. These become rather more scarce on the Ring of Kerry coast road until you get to Kenmare, so considering picking up picnic fare here, too.

At smokery KRD Fisheries ( iconphonegif 066-976 1106; www.krdfisheries.com; Tralee Rd; iconhoursgif 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat, to 11am Sun) you can buy salmon direct from the premises. Nearby, Jack Healy bakes amazing breads and also makes pâté and beautiful sandwiches at Jack’s Bakery.

The Drive » It’s 40km from Killorglin to Cahersiveen. En route, you’ll pass the