Lonely Planet Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand

By Greg Bloom

Lonely Planet's Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Visit Chiang Mai, the cultural capital of northern Thailand, discover a secret beach on Cambodia's Koh Rong, or loosen up in Ho Chi Minh City; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet's Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand Travel Guide:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

What's New feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas our writers have uncovered

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 70 maps 

Covers Hanoi, Halong Bay, Ho Chi Minh City, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Vientiane, Luan Prabang, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle and more

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand, our most comprehensive guide to Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet Vietnam, Lonely Planet Cambodia, Lonely Planet Laos or Lonely Planet Thailand for a comprehensive look at all these countries have to offer.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Apr 22, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838692803

Greg Bloom

Greg Bloom es escritor autónomo, operador turístico y planificador de viajes con sede en Siem Reap, Camboya, y Manila, Filipinas. Comenzó su carrera como escritor a finales de los años noventa en Ucrania, trabajando como periodista y, posteriormente, como jefe de redacción del Kyiv Post, un semanario en inglés. Ha colaborado en 35 guías de Lonely Planet, principalmente de países asiáticos y de Europa del Este. En la actualidad, además de escribir, organiza viajes de aventuras en Camboya y Palawan (Filipinas) a través de su agencia, Bearcat Travel

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Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand

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Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to the Mekong Region

Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand Map

The Mekong Region’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Outdoor Adventures

Family Travel

Countries at a Glance

On The Road

VIETNAM

Hanoi

Ninh Binh

Cuc Phuong National Park

Northern Vietnam

Halong Bay

Halong City

Cat Ba Island

Haiphong

Ba Be National Park

Mai Chau

Lao Cai

Bac Ha

Sapa

Dien Bien Phu

Central Vietnam

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

Hue

Danang

Hoi An

Cham Islands

Southeast Coast

Quy Nhon

Bai Xep

Nha Trang

Mui Ne

Southwest Highlands

Dalat

Cat Tien National Park

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Cu Chi

Mekong Delta

Bac Lieu

My Tho

Ben Tre

Vinh Long

Can Tho

Chau Doc

Ha Tien

Rach Gia

Phu Quoc Island

Con Dao Islands

Understand Vietnam

Survival Guide

CAMBODIA

Phnom Penh

Koh Dach

Tonlé Bati

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre

Phnom Chisor

Udong

Kirirom National Park

Siem Reap

Floating Village of Chong Kneas

Kompong Pluk

Kompong Khleang

Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary

Temples of Angkor

Angkor Wat

Angkor Thom

Northwestern Cambodia

Banteay Chhmar

Battambang

Preah Vihear Province

Kompong Thom

Eastern Cambodia

Kompong Cham

Kratie

Stung Treng

Mondulkiri Province

Ratanakiri Province

South Coast

Koh Kong City

Koh Kong Conservation Corridor

Sihanoukville

The Southern Islands

Kampot Province

Kep

Understand Cambodia

Survival Guide

LAOS

Vientiane & Around

Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area (NPA)

Vang Vieng

Luang Prabang & Around

Northern Laos

Xieng Khuang & Hua Phan Provinces

Muang Ngoi District

Northwestern Laos

Phongsali Province

Middle Mekong

Central Laos

Bolikhamsai & Khammuan Provinces

Savannakhet Province

Southern Laos

Pakse Region

Bolaven Plateau Region

Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands)

Understand Laos

Survival Guide

NORTHERN THAILAND

Bangkok

Thailand’s Eastern Seaboard

Ko Samet

Trat

Ko Chang

Northeastern Thailand

Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)

Khao Yai National Park

Phanom Rung Historical Park

Ubon Ratchathani

Mukdahan

Nakhon Phanom

Nong Khai

Chiang Khan

Northern Provinces

Chiang Mai

Chiang Dao

Tha Ton

Pai

Sukhothai

Chiang Rai

Golden Triangle

Chiang Khong

Nan

Doi Phu Kha National Park

Mae Hong Son

Understand Thailand

Survival Guide

UNDERSTAND

Understand the Mekong Region

History

People & Culture

Border Crossings

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Electricity

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Responsible Travel

Safe Travel

Smoking

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Entering the Region

Air

Land

Sea

GETTING AROUND

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Train

Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to The Mekong Region

My affair with the Mekong region began in 1997. An overnight bus from Bangkok and the next morning I’m in Vientiane. It’s traffic- and tourist-free, and it’s surely the most relaxed place on earth. The next month is a somnolent journey north along misty mountain roads and rivers coloured caramel by the monsoon. A decade later I returned, this time to live in Cambodia, where the icons of Mekong life – exuberant temples, radiant green rice fields, glistening water buffalo – became part of my daily life, and continue to draw me back to this day.

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Preah Khan, Temples of Angkor, Cambodia | NIDO HUEBL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Greg Bloom, Writer

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For more, see our writers

The Mekong Region’s Top 9

1Heaven on Earth

A deeply spiritual land of monks, altar offerings and incense, the Mekong region is blessed with an astonishing legacy of ancient religious architecture: the ruins of Angkor, the graceful temples of Luang Prabang and the royal grandeur of Sukhothai. And those are just the big hitters. Explore further to uncover stunning Cham ruins like My Son and the pagodas and tombs of Hue in Vietnam.

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Banteay Srei, Temples of Angkor, Cambodia | LEV LEVIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Temples of Angkor (Cambodia)

Perhaps the greatest cultural monument in the world, this extraordinary temple complex includes incomparable Angkor Wat; wonderfully weird Bayon; and Ta Prohm, where nature runs amok.

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Bayon, Temples of Angkor, Cambodia | ARTIE PHOTOGRAPHY (ARTIE NG)/GETTY IMAGES ©

Luang Prabang (Laos)

Hemmed in by the Mekong River and Nam Khan (Khan River), this timeless city of temples is a traveller’s dream: rich in royal history, saffron-clad monks, stunning river views, world-class French cuisine and the best boutique accommodation in Southeast Asia.

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Buddhist monks collecting alms, Luang Prabang, Laos | BEIBAOKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sukhothai Historical Park (Thailand)

This majestic former capital (pictured above) is best explored by bicycle, as you wind your way around crumbling temples, graceful Buddha statues and fish-filled ponds. Worthwhile museums and some of the country’s best-value accommodation round off the experience.

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PIKOSO.KZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2LESS IS MORE

The Mekong region has its share of megacities that are certainly dynamic and exciting to experience, but many travellers revel in the slower pace of life found in smaller cultural hubs such as Hoi An, Chiang Mai and Battambang. All these rewarding destinations boast fantastic dining scenes, cooking schools and independent stores focusing on local crafts.

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Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation, Hoi An, Vietnam | MIKECPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hoi An (Vietnam)

Immerse yourself in history in the beautiful, ancient port of Hoi An, which contains a warren-like Old Town replete with temples and pagodas, cafes and restaurants. Then hit glorious An Bang Beach, wander along the riverside and bike the back roads.

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Thu Bon River, Hoi An, Vietnam | AOYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Battambang (Cambodia)

Unfurling along the banks of the Sangker River, Battambang is one of the best-preserved colonial-era towns in Cambodia. Streets lined with graceful old shophouses host art galleries and social enterprises ranging from fair-trade cafes to tour agencies peddling bike excursions. In a word? Charming.

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Colonial-era architecture, Battambang, Cambodia | BTWIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Chiang Mai (Thailand)

The cultural capital of Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is beloved by culture geeks, temple-spotters, families and foodies. Loaded with monuments from the once-independent Lanna kingdom, the old city’s evocative winding side roads are a delight to explore, as is the city’s market.

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Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai, Thailand | HORIZONMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3BEACH BLISS

If you’re in search of a tropical beach where the crowds are thin, coconuts are plentiful and the water aquamarine, you’ve come to the right place. Vietnam’s coastline has near-endless options, Cambodia and Thailand’s islands offer coral reefs and scuba dreams, while even land-locked Laos has some fine hammock-swinging spots. Yes, you’re never far from a beach haven in the Mekong region.

Ko Kut (Thailand)

Ko Kut (pictured above) has beautiful stretches of sand, fine snorkelling and hidden waterfalls. Best of all, the island retains a supremely unhurried pace of life that visitors soon find themselves imitating.

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DITTY_ABOUT_SUMMER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Si Phan Don (Laos)

These idyllic tropical islands, bounded by the waters of the Mekong, are known for sun worshipping, kayaking, and boat trips to see the Irrawaddy dolphin.

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Kayaking the Mekong near Don Det, Laos | MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Cambodia’s Southern Islands

A secret no more, the islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem fulfil lost paradise fantasies while ensuring enough buzz to keep the party people happy.

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Koh Rong, Cambodia | ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4EATS & TREATS

There’s no surer way to spice up your life than with a culinary odyssey through the Mekong region. Delve a little into the region’s history and it’s easy to appreciate the influence of India in Cambodian amok and the presence of China in soy-sauce-soaked noodles and hotpots of Northern Vietnam. Cooking schools offer the chance to learn a new skill, while street food treats are ubiquitous and delicious.

Street Food

Virtually every town and city will have a zone where street vendors serve up sizzling regional dishes. Hanoi is a mecca, famous for specialities like bun cha (barbecued pork).

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Bun cha, Vietnam | ASIA IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seafood

Head to Kep in Cambodia for special dishes like succulent fresh crab with Kampot pepper at the iconic Crab Market.

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Stir-fried crab, Cambodia | SOPHIE LENOIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Fine Dining

For memorable home cooking with Gallic flare, book ahead for Laos’ top restaurants. HCMC, Phnom Penh and Bangkok are other key foodie destinations.

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Quail dish at L’Elephant, Luang Prabang, Laos | MATTHEW WAKEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

5BIG NATURE

The Mekong region offers nature on a very grand scale indeed, particularly in Northern Vietnam and Eastern Laos, home to limestone peaks, colossal caves and thousands of craggy karst islands. Elsewhere, Thailand’s best scenery is in its far north, where you’ll find superb road trip potential; the landscape a cascade of forested mountains and plunging river valleys, lonely hill tribe villages and breathtaking vistas.

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park (Vietnam)

Perhaps the world’s most exciting caving destination, Phong Nha-Ke Bang has cathedral-like chambers to explore, including Hang Toi (Dark Cave) and the other-worldly beauty of Paradise Cave.

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Paradise Cave, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, Vietnam | CPM PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Halong Bay (Vietnam)

Halong Bay’s stunning combination of karst limestone peaks and sheltered, shimmering seas (pictured left) is one of Vietnam’s top draws, and with more than 2000 islands, there’s plenty of superb scenery to go around.

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LENA SERDITOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Vieng Xai Caves (Laos)

This is history writ large in stone. Vieng Xai was home to the Pathet Lao leadership, who burrowed into these natural caves for protection. A superb audio tour brings the experience alive.

Top Experiences

6WILD AT HEART

National parks offer the best opportunity for wildlife encounters. Flora and fauna is incredibly exotic and varied, with species new to science being discovered every year. Highlights include kayaking trips to see the freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin on stretches of the Mekong, pre-dawn hikes to see gibbons, birdwatching in wetlands (including Cambodia’s Prek Toal) and visiting elephant sanctuaries.

Gibbon Experience (Laos)

Realise your inner Tarzan as you whiz above the forest floor attached to a zipline (pictured above). These cables span valleys in the Bokeo Nature Reserve (habitat of the black-crested gibbon).

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SUN_SHINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cat Tien National Park (Vietnam)

Set on a bend in the Dong Nai River, there is something vaguely Apocalypse Now about Cat Tien (pictured right). Popular activities include cycling, trekking and wildlife spotting.

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QUANG NGUYEN VINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Khao Yai National Park (Thailand)

Wildlife-spotting is excellent in this vast Unesco-listed reserve, home to elephants, monkeys, gibbons, amazing birdlife (including hornbills), pythons, bears, a million bats and even a few wily tigers.

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Great hornbill, Khao Yai National Park, Thailand | SAINAM51/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

7ADVENTURE SPORTS

The Mekong region has outstanding outdoor appeal. There’s outstanding kite-surfing, a myriad of great kayaking options plus decent scuba diving and snorkelling around the Cambodian and Thai islands. Inland, there’s amazing rock climbing in Vietnam’s Cat Bat Island and Lan Ha Bay and near-endless hiking and biking routes – hotspots include the highlands of Northern Vietnam and Laos.

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PATRIK DIETRICH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nam Ha National Protected Area (Laos)

Ecotreks in this wonderland in northern Laos, where clouded leopards still roam, are deeply rewarding and controlled to minimise pressure on local hill tribes. Other activities include rafting, mountain biking and birding.

Vang Vieng (Laos)

The riverine jewel in Laos’ karst country, Vang Vieng offers well-organised zip-lining, trekking, caving and climbing – and not forgetting the main draw: river trips by kayak or longtail boat.

Mui Ne (Vietnam)

A kitesurfing capital (pictured above), with world-class wind and more than 20km of palm-fringed beachfront that stretches invitingly along the shores of the South China Sea. Sailing, windsurfing and hot-air ballooning are also possible.

Top Experiences

8BIG CITY BUZZ

Prime your senses, loosen your collar and enter the dragon: the region’s megacities are as dynamic and exciting as anywhere on planet earth. Grand thoroughfares are graced with historical sites, fine museums, fascinating galleries, chic boutiques and imposing colonial-era edifices. Yet explore more and you’ll encounter tradition and street life just a step or two away; in areas such as Hanoi’s Old Quarter, lanes are thick with street kitchens and craft industries.

Bangkok (Thailand)

The original City of Angels more than lives up to its hype. Traffic jams and humidity aside, Bangkok is now tidier and easier to navigate than ever.

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Chatuchak Weekend Market, Bangkok, Thailand | VASSAMON ANANSUKKASEM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hanoi & HCMC (Vietnam)

Vietnam’s two metropolises both have a visceral energy: Ho Chi Minh City is raucous and thrilling while Hanoi (pictured above left) is a little more reserved.

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LE QUANG PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Phnom Penh (Cambodia)

Cambodia’s capital (pictured above) is a chaotic yet charming city that has thrown off the shadows of the past to embrace a brighter future.

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DALE WARREN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

9HILL TRIBE CULTURE

The mountainous north of the region is deeply diverse and home to over a hundred ethnic groups. Laos and Vietnam are famous for community-based treks, many of which include a stay in a minority village. Luang Namtha (in Laos) and Bac Ha (in Vietnam) are popular bases. Northern Thailand has a very multicultural feel too and here, Burmese, Chinese and Shan influences are evident.

Chiang Rai Province (Thailand)

The days of the Golden Triangle opium trade are over, but intrigue still lingers at Chiang Rai in the form of trekking and self-guided exploration. Visit an Akha village or stay at the Yunnanese-Chinese hamlet of Mae Salong.

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Doi Mae Salong, Thailand | TOPTEN22PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bac Ha (Vietnam)

From the sleepy village of Bac Ha you can hike to Tay, Flower Hmong and Dzao homestays on treks and explore bucolic rural lanes on two wheels to minority markets.

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Flower Hmong woman, Bac Ha Vietnam | GIL.K/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mondulkiri & Ratanakiri (Cambodia)

The rolling hills of the nation’s wild northeast offer trekking amid threatened forests and ethnic-minority villages where animism and ancestor worship are still practised. Elephant sanctuaries are another draw.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Cambodia Riel (r)

Laos Kip (K)

Thailand Baht (B)

Vietnam Dong (d)

Languages

Cambodia Khmer

Laos Lao

Thailand Thai

Vietnam Vietnamese

Visas

Cambodia US$30 (on arrival)

Laos US$30 to US$42 (on arrival)

Thailand Waivers (on arrival)

Vietnam US$20 (in advance; some countries exempt)

Money

ATMs are widely available in Thailand and Vietnam, and in most Cambodian and Lao provincial capitals. Credit cards are accepted at most midrange and top-end hotels throughout.

Mobile Phones

Roaming is possible in all countries, but it’s expensive. Local SIM cards and unlocked mobile phones are available.

Time

Indochina Time (GMT/UTC plus seven hours)

When to Go

03-climate-vcl6

High Season (Dec–Mar)

A Cool and dry in the southern Mekong region.

A Cold in Hanoi and the mountains of Laos and Vietnam.

A Watch out for Chinese New Year in January/February, when everyone is on the move.

Shoulder (Apr, May, Oct & Nov)

A April to May is sweltering hot in the lowlands.

A October and November offer good trekking, lush landscapes and a pleasant climate.

A Songkram (April) is a blast, albeit Laos, Thailand and Cambodia shut down for business.

Low Season (Jun–Sep)

A Wet season means emerald-green landscapes and respite from the searing sun.

A Big hotel discounts at beaches and in touristy spots such as Siem Reap.

A Thailand remains busy as Western visitors flock there for summer holidays.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Travelfish (www.travelfish.org) Opinionated articles and reviews about the region.

Mekong Tourism (www.mekongtourism.org) Updated links to latest regional travel news and trends.

Golden Triangle Rider (www.gt-rider.com) The motorbiking website for the Mekong region.

Important Numbers

Always remember to drop the initial 0 from the mobile prefix or regional (city) code when dialling into Cambodia, Laos, Thailand or Vietnam from another country.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$50

A Dorm bed: US$2–3

A Cheap guesthouse room: US$10–15

A Local meals and street eats: US$1–2

A Local buses and trains: US$2–3 per 100km

Midrange: US$50–150

A Air-con hotel room: US$15–50

A Decent local restaurant meal: US$5–10

A Short taxi ride: US$2–3

A Local tour guide per day: US$20

Top End: Over US$150

A Boutique hotel or resort: US$50–500

A Gastronomic meal with drinks: US$25–75

A 4WD rental per day: US$60–120

A Upmarket adventure tour: US$100–200

Getting Around

Trains, planes, automobiles and boats are equally viable options in the Mekong region.

Bus The reliable warhorse of the region; will likely be your main form of transport.

Plane Plenty of interregional and domestic routes between major cities. Domestic routes in Cambodia and Laos are more limited.

Train Alternative to buses in Thailand and Vietnam; relaunched in 2016 after decades of dormancy in Cambodia; just about ready for prime time in Laos.

Boat Losing popularity as roads improve.

Car Private vehicle hire affordable for those who prefer private transport. Self-drive rentals becoming more popular.

Motorbike Great for localised travel; rentals cheap and widely available.

Local transport Cheap tuk-tuks and motorcycle taxis are ideal for short hops.

Etiquette

Individual countries have their own rules and taboos, but the following apply for pretty much the entire Mekong region:

Arguments Do not lose your temper. This will lead to a loss of face. Smile through conflict instead.

Chopsticks Don’t leave a pair of chopsticks sitting vertically in a rice bowl – they can look like the incense sticks that are burned for the dead.

Feet Avoid pointing your feet at people or sacred objects (eg Buddhas); if you can’t control your feet, tuck ’em behind you, like a mermaid.

Food Don’t turn down food placed in your bowl by your host.

Heads Considered sacred: don’t touch anyone on their head.

Monks They are not supposed to touch or be touched by women.

Nude sunbathing Considered totally inappropriate.

Shoes Remove them when entering a temple or home.

Temples Don’t bare too much skin; remove any hat or head covering before entering.

For much more, see getting around

What’s New

Change is happening at a breakneck pace in the Mekong region. Countering global trends, all countries (except Thailand) boasted growth figures in pandemic-hit 2020, and regional hubs like Phnom Penh, Hanoi, Vientiane and Chang Mai are emerging as truly cosmopolitan cities.

Aerial Adventures

Bird’s-eye views are all the rage these days. Perched atop Thailand’s tallest building, SkyWalk at King Power Mahanakhon offers a nerve-jangling 360-degree view of Bangkok. Mekong Fly on Don Khon, Laos, traverses the raging torrent of the Tat Somphamit waterfall. Soaring high above the An Thoi Islands off Phu Quoc, Vietnam, the Hon Thom Cable Car is the world’s longest over-sea cable car. Nong Khiaw Jungle Fly in Laos throws down ziplines, ‘Tarzan swings’, canopy walks and abseiling as part of its adventure package. In Vietnam, Ba Na Hill Station’s Golden Bridge offers astonishing panoramas (though working around the crowds of Instagrammers isn’t easy).

Righting Animal Wrongs

Some rare good news for animals – both wild and domestic. The latest census of Irawaddy dolphins along the Mekong River in Cambodia found the population has risen for the first time in years.

Officials in Hanoi have urged city dwellers to not eat dog meat in a bid to make the city free of the canine meat trade.

ChangChill has become the only elephant reserve in Northern Thailand to be designated elephant-friendly by World Animal Protection.

Can Tho Takes Off

Long the unofficial capital of the Mekong Delta on account of its sophisticated hotels and restaurants and nearby floating markets, Can Tho is now well and truly on the map thanks to a network of domestic flights that connect it to the blissful beaches of Phu Quoc and Con Dao, as well as Dalat, Danang, Haiphong and Hanoi. International budget airlines offer direct connections to Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN VIETNAM, CAMBODIA, LAOS & NORTHERN THAILAND

Greg Bloom, Lonely Planet Writer

Long a conduit for trade, the Mekong River has increasingly become a source of tension. Laos’ campaign to build up to nine dams has downriver folk in Cambodia and Vietnam genuinely worried about its potential effects on fish stocks and the supply of water.

The elephant in the room continues to be China, which has been pouring billions of dollars in investments and loans into Cambodia and Laos through its ‘Belt and Road’ initiative, while legitimising one-party elites. The geopolitical entanglements and long-term costs are a cause of concern.

Meanwhile, traditionally neutral Thailand has remained that way. The Thais have enough to worry about on the home front, with a military junta overseeing politics and angry protests calling for reform of the monarchy.

Certain sectors, including manufacturing and agriculture, faired well during 2020, though tourism in the Mekong region was hit particularly hard as international visitor arrivals plummeted.

Rail Buffs Rejoice

Train service continues its slow proliferation throughout the Mekong region. The major intra-regional railway linking Kunming in China to Vientiane, begun in late 2016, is scheduled for completion in 2021. Cambodia’s long-mothballed rail system saw the reopening of its pre–WWII northern line in 2018 after the southern line opened in 2016. Hanoi’s first metro line is set to commence service in late 2021 or 2022. Progress on HCMC’s metro remains slow, but trains should start rolling in 2022 or 2023. Bangkok’s new Bang Sue Grand Station will open in 2021 as the nation’s new rail hub.

Luang Prabang Branches Out

Several interesting activities have sprouted up outside Laos’ boutique capital. Try your hand at milking a buffalo on a tour of Laos Buffalo Dairy. Verdant Nahm Dong Park features waterfalls, swimming holes, ziplines, a treetop walk and trekking. Rural e-mountain-biking excursions with E-bike Adventures can be combined with kayaking on the Nam Khan River.

Sihanoukville on the Slide, Southern Islands on the Rise

Well-documented in the international press, former party mecca Sihanoukville, Cambodia, is a development disaster with chaotic construction, terrible traffic and numerous casinos. Luckily the surrounding islands are taking up the slack thanks to beautiful beaches and a great range of accommodation.

Waste Not …

Grassroots projects aim to lead the climate-change-vulnerable Mekong region toward greener pastures. Refill Not Landfill (https://refilltheworld.com) works with hotels, restaurants and shops across the region to provide refillable water bottles and drinking-water refill stations. Trash Heroes (https://trashhero.org) is a growing initiative that sees volunteers picking up rubbish around the beaches of Thailand and Cambodia.

Bangkok Biennale

Running from October to February in alternate years, the Bangkok Biennale (www.bkkartbiennale.com) is a new mega-festival that started in 2018–19, showcasing the works of some of Asia’s biggest and trendiest artists at public spaces across the metropolis. The next edition is scheduled for 2022–23.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam/articles, www.lonelyplanet.com/cambodia/articles, www.lonelyplanet.com/laos/articles and www.lonelyplanet.com/thailand/articles.

Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.com) Bastion of independent, English-language reporting in the region; covers Thailand and beyond.

RFA (Radio Free Asia; www.rfa.org/english/news/laos) Unbiased, censorship-free news on the region from Asia-based journalists.

The Bureau (https://thebureauasia.com) Fine restaurant and bar reviews, plus a good podcast.

Vietcetera (https://vietcetera.com/en) Great cultural, travel and cuisine content. Based in HCMC.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Contemporary street food

Highest peak Mt Fansipan, Vietnam (3143m)

Tigers remaining in the wild 180

Population 196 million

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Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Tet/Chinese New Year, January/February

Khmer/Lao/Thai New Year, April

Rocket Festival, May

Pchum Ben, September/October

Loi Krathong, November

January

This is peak tourist season as Europeans and North Americans escape the cold winter. For serious revellers, January also sees the rare occurrence of two new-year celebrations in a month.

z Tet

The Big One! Vietnamese Lunar New Year is Christmas, new year and birthdays all rolled into one. Travel is difficult at this time, as transport is booked up and many businesses close. Falls in late January or early February.

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Preparations for Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year) | VIETNAM STOCK IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z Chinese New Year

Always occurring in January or February, at the same time as Vietnamese New Year (Tet), these festivities are headline news in major cities such as Phnom Penh and Bangkok. Expect businesses to close for a few days and dragon dances to kick off all over town.

February

Still peak season for the region, and the coastline is busy with sun-seekers. Inland, the first round of rice harvesting is over, but in parts of Vietnam and Thailand they are already onto round two.

0 Makha Bucha

One of three holy days marking important moments of Buddha’s life, Makha Bucha falls on the full moon of the third lunar month and commemorates Buddha preaching to 1250 enlightened monks who came to hear him ‘without prior summons’. Celebrations are most fervent in Laos and in Thailand, where it is a public holiday.

z Flower Festival

Chiang Mai displays its floral beauty during this three-day event. The festival highlight is the flower-decorated floats that parade through town.

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Chiang Mai Flower Festival | ADDKM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

April

The hottest time of year, so book an air-con room. New year is ushered in all over the region. The accompanying water fights in Laos and Thailand are a guaranteed way to keep cool.

z Songkran

Songkran, the Thai New Year, is a no-holds-barred countrywide water fight that has to be seen to be believed. Bangkok and Chiang Mai are some of the most raucous battle-grounds. Like Lao and Khmer New Year, it always falls in mid-April.

z Bun Pi Mai

Lao New Year is one of the most effusive, fun-splashed events in the calendar as houses and Buddha statuary are cleaned, and the country has a weeklong national water fight with water pistols and buckets of H₂O. Protect your camera and join in the fun.

z Chaul Chnam

Khmer New Year is a more subdued event than in neighbouring Laos and Thailand, but water fights still kick off in much of the countryside. It’s mainly a family holiday, when city dwellers return to the place of their ancestry to meet distant relatives.

z Liberation Day

Saigon fell to the north on 30 April 1975 and was renamed Ho Chi Minh City. It’s celebrated by the Communist Party; expect the reaction to be more subdued in the south.

3 Hue Festival (Biennial)

Vietnam’s biggest cultural event (www.huefestival.com) is held every two years, including 2022 and 2024. Most of the art, theatre, music, circus and dance performances, including many international acts, are held inside Hue’s Citadel.

May

The hottest time of year in many parts of the region; escape to northern Vietnam for springlike weather. This is low season, when visitor numbers drop and prices follow.

z Chat Preah Nengkal

Led by the royal family, the Royal Ploughing Ceremony is a ritual agricultural festival held to mark the traditional beginning of the rice-growing season. It takes place in early May in Phnom Penh. If the royal oxen eat, the harvest will be bountiful; should they refuse, it may spell drought. Also celebrated at the Royal Palace in Bangkok.

0 Visakha Bucha

The holy day of Visakha Bucha (Phong Sinh in Vietnam) falls on the 15th day of the waxing moon in the sixth lunar month and commemorates Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and parinibbana (passing away). Activities centre on the temple.

3 Rocket Festival

The Rocket Festival is a pre-Buddhist rain cere-mony celebrated alongside Visakha Bucha. Villagers craft bamboo rockets (bang fai) and fire them into the sky to provoke rainfall to bring a bountiful rice harvest. Mainly celebrated in northeastern Thailand and Laos, where it can get wild with music, dance and processions. Dates vary from village to village.

June

The wet season begins in much of the Mekong region. Expect a daily downpour, but much of the time it should be dry. River levels begin to rise again.

z Phi Ta Khon

The Buddhist holy day of Bun Phra Wet is given a Carnival makeover in Dan Sai village in northeastern Thailand. Revellers disguise themselves in garish ‘spirit’ costumes and parade through the village streets wielding wooden phalluses and downing rice whisky. Dates vary between June and July.

July

The wet season is in full swing in much of the Mekong region and rivers begin to swell. Many Europeans head to the region to coincide with long summer holidays back home, creating a mini-high season in the midst of the low season.

z Danang International Fireworks Festival

The riverside of Danang (Vietnam) explodes with sound, light and colour during this spectacular event, which features competing pyrotechnic teams from around the world and is spread over five weekends in June and early July.

0 Asahna Bucha

The full moon of the eighth lunar month commemorates Buddha’s first sermon, in which he described the religion’s four noble truths. It is considered one of Buddhism’s holiest days.

0 Khao Phansaa

The day after Asahna Bucha, Buddhist monks retreat into monasteries in Cambodia, Laos and Thailand – the traditional time for young men to enter monasteries or when monks begin a retreat for study and meditation. Worshippers offer candles and donations to the temples and attend ordinations.

September

The height of the wet season: if places like Bangkok or Phnom Penh are going to flood this is when it usually happens. Occasional typhoons sweep in across Vietnam, wreaking havoc.

3 Vietnam National Day

Big parades and events are held across Vietnam on 2 September. Celebrated with a rally and fireworks at Ba Dinh Sq, Hanoi (in front of Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum), and there are also boat races on Hoan Kiem Lake.

0 Pchum Ben

A sort of Cambodian All Souls’ Day – respects are paid to the dead through offerings made at wat to resident monks. Often falls in October. Trung Nguyen is a similar festival celebrated in Vietnam, usually in the preceding month.

z Vegetarian Festival

Thailand takes a holiday from meat for nine days in adherence with Chinese beliefs of mind and body purification. Generally held late September/early October.

October

The rains are easing off and farmers prepare for the harvest season. A series of festivals fall around this time and the temples are packed as monks emerge from their retreat.

z Bon Om Tuk

Cambodia’s raucous Water Festival celebrates Jayavarman VII’s victory over the Chams in 1177 and the reversal of the Tonlé Sap river. It’s celebrated mainly in Phnom Penh, where tens of thousands watch boat races and colourful fluvial processions.

0 Ork Phansaa

The end of the Buddhist Lent (three lunar months after Khao Phansaa) is marked by the gà·tĭn ceremony, in which new robes are given to monks by merit-makers. The peculiar phenomenon known as the ‘naga fireballs’ coincides with Ork Phansaa.

November

The cool, dry season begins and is an ideal time to visit for lush landscapes. In the far north of the region, temperatures begin to drop.

z Loi Krathong

Join Thais in launching floating candles during the festival of Loi Krathong, usually held in early November. If you happen to be in Chiang Mai, the banana-leaf boats are replaced by yêe þeng (floating paper lanterns).

z Bun Pha That Luang

That Luang Festival is tied to the November full moon. Based in Vientiane and lasting a week, this celebration involves music, a lot of drinking, processions to That Luang, fireworks and a cast of many thousands who flock to the Laos capital.

0 Ramadan

Observed in southern Thailand and the Cham areas of Cambodia and Vietnam during October, November or December, the Muslim fasting month requires that Muslims abstain from food, drink, cigarettes and sex between sunrise and sunset.

December

Peak tourism season is back and the weather is fine, so the chances of a white Christmas are very slim unless you happen to be climbing Vietnam’s highest peak, Fansipan.

0 Christmas

Most of the region has adopted Christmas in some shape or form, and while not a national holiday, it is celebrated throughout Vietnam particularly, by the sizeable Catholic population. It’s a special time to be in places like Phat Diem and HCMC, where thousands attend midnight Mass.

z Lao National Day

This 2 December holiday celebrates the 1975 victory over the monarchy with parades and speeches. Lao national and communist hammer-and-sickle flags are flown all over the country. Celebration is mandatory.

2 Angkor Wat International Half Marathon

Held the first weekend in December amid the incredible backdrop of the temples of Angkor, with 3km and 10km events complementing the 21km main event, which draws big crowds to cheer on participants from all over the world.

Plan Your Trip

Itineraries

Greatest Hits

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3 WEEKS

Traverse the fertile belly of the region, taking in the Mekong’s main metropolises, idyllic islands and its most iconic sight, Angkor Wat.

Like so many Southeast Asian journeys, yours begins in Bangkok. Acclimatise with the sights, sounds, smells and divine culinary flavours of the City of Angels before boarding a bus to Trat, the jump-off point to the underrated islands off Thailand’s eastern seaboard. Jungle-covered Ko Chang is loved for its tropical ambience and thriving party scene, while quiet Ko Kut excels in seaside seclusion and Ko Mak boasts a chill island vibe.

Cross the border into Cambodia at Koh Kong, where jungle adventures await in the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor, then head to the Southern Islands off Sihanoukville for more fun in the sun, or to Kampot for good food and indolent river vibes. Cheap flights link Sihanoukville with Siem Reap, the gateway to the incredible Temples of Angkor. See the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building; the Bayon, with its enigmatic faces; and jungle-clad Ta Prohm. Set aside a day to visit a remote temple like Prasat Preah Vihear, a mountain temple perched precariously atop a cliff on the Thai border.

Fly or take a bus to Ho Chi Minh City to spend a day or two hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of Asia’s best cuisine. Then it’s a plane or train up to Danang to access the cultured charmer and culinary hot spot that is Hoi An. Enjoy Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring its temples and Old Town, and visit the nearby beach of An Bang. Then it’s on to the old imperial capital of Hue for two to three nights to explore the citadel, pagodas and tombs.

Next it’s a long journey by train to Hanoi to check out the capital’s evocative Old Quarter, munch some street food and view the city’s elegant architecture and cultural sights. From Hanoi book a tour to incomparable Halong Bay, which boasts more than 2000 limestone islands, before returning to Hanoi for your flight home.

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Ko Kut, Thailand | JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Itineraries

Highland Adventure

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4 WEEKS

This itinerary takes you from northern Thailand to Halong Bay, Vietnam, via the rugged and thrilling northern route. Traversing the Mekong’s highest mountains, you’ll get up close and personal with colourful hill tribes and have a range of outdoor adventures at your disposal.

Start in Chiang Mai, where adventure activities abound: mountain biking, kayaking, abseiling, trekking and ziplining. Next head north to Chiang Dao, where plenty of mountains await, and on to the charming riverside village of Tha Ton before zigzagging up to Doi Mae Salong, a mountain town inhabited by ethnic Chinese. Slide into Chiang Rai for a hill-people homestay and culturally sensitive treks.

Cross into Laos at Huay Xai and check out the Gibbon Experience before continuing east to Luang Namtha for trekking, cycling, or rafting in and around the Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA). Veer southeast to Nong Khiaw on the banks of the Nam Ou, with striking limestone crags looming all around. Board the adventurous boat trip to Muang Khua in Phongsali Province with a stop in sublime Muang Ngoi Neua. If you have time, spend some days exploring the authentic hill-tribe settlements of Phongsali before crossing into Vietnam at historic Dien Bien Phu.

There’s plenty of incredible scenery and some of the country’s most dramatic mountain passes around Dien Bien Phu. Once you’ve had your fill, head up to Sapa, an old French hill station and popular gateway to the region’s minority communities. Spend at least a few days in and around Bac Ha, home to the colourful Flower Hmong folk and great walking country. Head south to Hanoi to check out the capital’s evocative Old Quarter, munch some street food and view the city’s elegant architecture and cultural sights.

Still seeking adventure? Set off for Halong Bay, or detour to Cat Ba Island, the jumping-off point for Lan Ha Bay, the ‘new’ Halong Bay without the tourists. Boating, kayaking and Robinson Crusoe–style camping are possible here, and there are some beautiful hidden coves. Experienced craggers will find challenging routes on the Cat Ba’s spectacular limestone outcrops, and there’s instruction available for novice climbers as well.

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Sapa, Vietnam | MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

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Akha woman, Luang Namtha, Laos | ANDREA PISTOLESI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

Mekong River Meander

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6 WEEKS

This trip follows the mother river downstream from northern Laos all the way to its terminus in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. En route you’ll encounter a wide range of landscapes, cultures and adventures as you slice through all four countries of the Mekong region.

Leave behind the bustle of Bangkok and make a beeline for Chiang Rai near the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand converge. Crossing the Mekong into Laos at Huay Xai is like stepping back in time. Slowboat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang, overnighting in Pak Beng. Soak up the magic before leaving the river for kayaking and rock-climbing mecca Vang Vieng.

Continue to Vientiane and reunite with the mighty waterway. Laos’ capital is a sleepy place with some great cafes, restaurants and bars – which you won’t be encountering for a while after here. Board a bus and follow the river southeast, stopping in Tha Khaek, Savannakhet and Pakse, old river trading centres that encapsulate the spirit of the Mekong. Visit the imposing Khmer sanctuary of Wat Phu Champasak, in the shadow of Lingaparvata Mountain; explore the waterfalls and villages of the Bolaven Plateau; or enjoy some hammock and tubing time in Si Phan Don (10,000 Islands).

Cross into Cambodia. If you missed the Irrawaddy dolphins near Don Khon in Si Phan Don, you can see them further south in the laid-back Mekong riverside town of Kratie. From Kratie, consider peeling off to visit the mountains of Mondulkiri Province, home to elephants, hill tribes and pristine nature.

Weeks in rural provinces will have you happy to see Phnom Penh, where the Mekong merges with another vital regional waterway, the Tonlé Sap. Take a sunset boat cruise or participate in an aerobics session on the riverfront promenade. When you’re recharged, board a fast boat downstream to Chau Doc, Vietnam, gateway to the Mekong Delta. Check out Can Tho, the delta’s commercial heart, or delve deeper into the delta with a homestay around Vinh Long. Hotfoot it to Ho Chi Minh City for a night out, or make for the tropical retreat of Phu Quoc Island, a well-earned reward for following the mother river.

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Mekong Delta, Vietnam | CUONGVND/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Wat Phu Champasak, Laos | PENG_CH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip

Outdoor Adventures

Dense jungles, brooding mountains, endless waterways, towering cliffs and hairpin bends: the potential for adrenaline-fuelled adventures is limitless in the Mekong region. Just travelling here is one long adventure, but these experiences will take it to another level.

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Divers, Nha Trang, Vietnam | NATALIA TRETIAKOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Best Outdoors

Trekking

Cat Tien National Park Accessible park that is chock-full of wildlife.

Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA) Responsible treks in old-growth forest.

Chiang Rai Fascinating hill-tribe terrain.

Koh Kong Conservation Corridor Experience raw nature in the Cardamoms.

Cycling

Mekong Delta Ride the back roads through Vietnam’s rice bowl.

Sukhothai Pedal into Thai history.

Nong Khiaw Adventure cycling trips led by responsible operators.

Angkor Free-wheel past ancient wonders.

Diving & Snorkelling

Con Dao Islands Remote underwater adventures.

Nha Trang Vietnam’s most popular diving.

Koh Rong Sanloem In range of most of Cambodia’s best dive sites.

Ko Rang Thai marine park that’s the best in the western gulf.

Trekking

Trekking is a huge draw in all four countries. Hike one to several days to minority hill-tribe villages, walk a half-day through the jungle to pristine waterfalls, or launch an assault on Fansipan (3143m), the region’s highest mountain. The scenery – think plunging highland valleys, tiers of rice paddies and pulsating rainforests – is often remarkable.

Prices for organised treks usually include all food, guides, transport, accommodation and park fees, and start at around per day per person US$25 for larger groups. For more specialised long treks into remote areas, prices can run into several hundred US dollars. It may be necessary to arrange special permits for some treks, especially if you plan to spend the night in remote mountain villages in parts of Laos and Vietnam.

Cambodia

Trekking in northeast Cambodia has traditionally been centred in the provinces of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri thanks to their wild natural scenery, abundant waterfalls and ethnic minority populations. Remote Virachey National Park in Ratanakiri offers the possibility of multiday trips. The tremendous Cardamom Mountains near Koh Kong are teeming with wildlife.

Laos

Trekking through the mountains and forests of Laos is almost a mandatory part of any visit to the country. Luang Namtha has developed an award-winning ecotourism project for visits to local ethnic-minority villages in Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA). In southern Laos, Se Pian NPA, close to Pakse, is a great option for multiday treks combined with traditional canoe rides or birdwatching. Tha Khaek is a base for trekking and climbing trips into Phu Hin Bun NPA, with stunning karst formations and caves.

Thailand

The northern Thai cities of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are very popular for treks, often in combination with white-water rafting and elephant experiences. Pai has also emerged as an alternative hub for treks, many of which are run by ethical operators with sustainable trips to help disadvantaged minority peoples, but there are also a lot of cowboys out there. Doi Phu Kha National Park presents endless opportunities for day and longer treks in the northern province of Nan, passing waterfalls, caves and ethnic minority villages along the way.

Vietnam

Vietnam’s traditional trekking mecca is Sapa, with its remarkable tableau of mountains, rice paddies and tribal villages, but it has become crowded. Bac Ha, at a lower elevation, is less rainy and the trails not as heavily tramped. Some outstanding treks and numerous trails have been developed amid the limestone scenery of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Adventure-tour operators in Hoi An offer some intriguing treks in the tribal areas west of town.

Safety Guidelines for Trekkers

A Don’t stray from established paths, as there are landmines and unexploded ordnance (UXO) in parts of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam.

A Guides are worth hiring; they’re inexpensive, speak the language and understand indigenous culture.

A Dogs can be aggressive; a stout stick may come in handy.

A Carry a mosquito net if trekking in malarial zones of the region.

A Consider quality socks and repellent to reduce the likelihood of leeches.

A Carry water-purification tablets if you have a weak constitution.

A Invest in some snack bars or energy snacks to avoid getting ‘riced out’ on longer treks.

Cycling

For hard-core cyclists, the mountains of northern Vietnam and northern Laos are the ultimate destination. The trails of Doi Suthep-Pui National Park in northern Thailand offer adrenaline-charged descents, with mountain-bike gear and guides available for hire in Chiang Mai (463). In Cambodia, mountain-bike rental and guided tours are available out of Chi Phat in the Southern Cardamom Mountains, or out of Kampot. Dalat in Vietnam’s southwest highlands is another good base for mountain-bike tours.

For those who like a more gentle workout, meandering along Mekong villages is memorable, particularly around Luang Prabang and Vientiane in Laos, the Mekong Delta in Vietnam, and Koh Dach and Kratie in Cambodia. Hoi An’s Old Town is closed to motorised traffic during the daytime these days, allowing cyclists to take over. Biking around Angkor is a great way to get around. And Thailand’s northeast can be rewarding thanks to good roads and light traffic.

Throughout the region, basic bicycles can be rented for US$1 to US$3 per day and good-quality mountain bikes for US$10 to US$25. When it comes to cycling tours, Bangkok-based Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com) is the acknowledged expert for the Mekong region and Asia beyond, but there are good local operators in each country.

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Bou Sraa Waterfall, Cambodia | MATHIASMOELLER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Motorbiking

For those with a thirst for adventure, motorbike trips into remote areas of the region are unforgettable. All four countries offer prime off-road territory for motorcyclists: ‘the Loop’ in central Laos; the highlands of north Vietnam and northern Thailand; and forgotten temple trails in Cambodia.

And it hardly stops there. The old Ho Chi Minh Trail, a symbol of war’s futility to some, is a holy grail of sorts to trail bikers: a network of rugged dirt paths that criss-cross the border of Laos and Vietnam. Cambodia’s mazelike Cardamom Mountains are legendary – just don’t get lost or you may end up spending a cold night in the jungle (a fate met by at least one Lonely Planet writer). Want something a bit easier (ie paved) but still plenty adventurous? The Southern Swing around Laos’ Bolaven Plateau is one of many options.

Specialist motorcycle-touring companies can organise multiday trips into remote areas using the roads less travelled. Costs for these trips start from US$50 per day, going up to US$150 or more for the premium tours, depending on accommodation. Most tours are confined to a single country. Hanoi-based Explore Indochina (www.exploreindochina.com) is one company that does cross-border trips into Laos and sometimes Cambodia.

Based in Vientiane, the Midnight Mapper (www.laosgpsmap.com) is a GPS service that hires out satellite navigation machines with your route especially pre-programmed. Golden Triangle Rider (www.gt-rider.com) is an excellent source for exploring the more remote bits of the Mekong region, including the Golden Triangle area and the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

Motorbikes are widely available for rent here throughout the region; hiring usually requires a licence here in Thailand but you rarely need to show one in Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.

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Vang Vieng, Laos | FBXX/GETTY IMAGES ©

Boat Trips

With the Mekong cutting a swath through the heart of the country, it is hardly surprising to find that boat trips are a major drawcard here. There are also opportunities to explore small jungled tributaries leading to remote minority villages.

Kayaking & Rafting

Though white-water rafting and kayaking is in its infancy in the Mekong region and the rivers are fairly tame most of the year, things can get a little more vigorous in the wet season. White water can be found in Vietnam on the Langbian River near Dalat, with class II, III or IV rapids. Companies based in Nha Trang also offer trips.

In northern Thailand, the rivers around Chiang Mai have white water from July to March (class II to class V). There is a short season (September to December) for white-water rafting in Nan, with trips passing through scenic forests and remote villages.

Note that rivers are prone to flash-flooding after heavy monsoon rain and can be dangerous at this time. When choosing a white-water operator take a careful look at their safety equipment and procedures.

Mellower river-rafting and kayaking trips are a hit throughout the region. In Thailand you can try a two- to three-day rafting trip out of Pai. In Laos you’ll find similar trips offered around Luang Namtha in the north. In the south, paddling around Si Phan Don is a must. The Song River in Vang Vieng is a hotspot for kayaking and tubing, while the extraordinary Tham Kong Lor cave in Khammuan Province is navigable by kayak.

In Vietnam you can explore the rivers and cave systems around Phong Nha by kayak, and the Hoi An region also has delightful rivers for kayaking. In Cambodia, use Stung Treng as a base to paddle from the dolphin pools on the Lao border downstream through bird-infested flooded forests, where the Mekong River is at its most brilliant. Mellow river paddling trips are also offered in the Cambodian towns of Kratie, Battambang and Kampot.

Sea kayaking is a popular diversion in coastal areas. In Vietnam, many standard Halong Bay tours include kayaking through the karsts, or you can choose a kayaking specialist and paddle around majestic limestone pinnacles, before overnighting at a remote bay. Nearby in less touristed Lan Ha Bay you can kayak to hidden coves and sandy beaches. Sea-kayaking opportunities abound on Cambodia’s Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem and Koh Ta Kiev, and over the border on Ko Chang, Thailand.

Diving & Snorkelling

Compared with destinations like Indonesia and the Philippines, diving and snorkelling opportunities in the Mekong region are limited. Southern Thailand has great diving for those heading south from Bangkok. Vietnam, and to a lesser extent Cambodia, have growing dive industries.

The Con Dao Islands offer unquestionably the best diving and snorkelling in Vietnam, with bountiful marine life, fine reefs and even a wreck dive, though it’s much more costly than the rest of Vietnam. The most popular place to dive in Vietnam is Nha Trang, which has plenty of reputable dive operators – as well as several dodgy dive shops, some of which have fake PADI credentials, so stick to reputable, recommended dive schools with qualified instructors and well-maintained equipment. Phu Quoc Island has some beautiful coral gardens full of marine life, although visibility can be a challenge. Dive trips out of Hoi An head to the lovely Cham Islands, where the focus is on macro life.

In Cambodia, the best diving is in the Southern Islands, particularly around Koh Rong Sanloem and the Koh Sdach Archipelago. Long day trips head further offshore to remote Koh Tang and Koh Prins. Just over the border in Thailand, uninhabited Ko Rang has the best diving in the vicinity of Ko Chang.

Costs

Typical costs are as follows:

Discover Scuba US$70–90

Two fun dives US$85–95 (US$160 in Con Dao Islands)

PADI Open Water US$400–500

Snorkelling day trip US$20–40

Kitesurfing & Windsurfing

In Vietnam, Mui Ne is the undisputed top spot for Asian wind chasers. You can kitesurf in Mui Ne year-round (rare for Southeast Asia), although it’s best in the dry season (November to April); Nha Trang and Vung Tau (just outside HCMC) are other possibilities.

If you’ve never kitesurfed before, go for a taster lesson (one/two hours US$60/100) before you enrol in a lengthy course – a three-day (nine-hour) course costs around US$500.

Surfing

Unfortunately, that wave scene in Apocalypse Now was shot in the Philippines. The Mekong region is hardly known for surfing, but if you need your fix you can find some swell at certain times of the year – finding a board can be decidedly more problematic, however.

With a 3000km coastline, Vietnam is the obvious top candidate. Your best bet is Danang, where there’s a small scene and some surf shops with boards for hire. Board hire costs US$5 to US$20 per day, while a two-hour surfing lesson will set you back about US$25. Mui Ne and Vung Tau also have occasional waves and board rental available. The peak season is December to March, when the waves are small but steady. July to November is fickle, but occasional typhoons passing offshore can produce clean peaks over 2m (though watch out for pollution after heavy rains).

Rock Climbing & Canyoning

When it comes to organised climbing, Chiang Mai in Thailand has the most on offer, but the region is liberally peppered with karsts and climbing options are plentiful. Don’t compromise on safety; only book canyoning trips through reputable, well-established companies.

In Vietnam, the acknowledged specialists are Langur’s Adventures, a highly professional outfit based on Cat Ba that offers rope climbing on karst hills, deep-water soloing and climbing/kayaking combo excursions. In Dalat there are a couple of good adventure-tour operators offering climbing and canyoning, which mixes rappelling, scrambling, hiking and swimming. Over the border in southern Cambodia, Climbodia runs courses and guided climbs in karst-laden hills around Kampot.

In Laos, Vang Vieng has some of the best climbing in Southeast Asia, with 200 routes – many of them bolted – up the limestone cliffs (most are rated between 4a and 8b). Adam’s Rock Climbing School has excellent instructors and safe equipment. Tha Khaek is home to the Green Climbers Home, a climbing school in range of some 250 routes from beginner to expert level.

Climbing costs start from about US$25 to US$30 and rise for more specialised climbs in the Halong Bay area or for instruction.

WHEN TO GO

For most activities, the dry season (November to May in most of the region) is the best time to visit. Trekking during the wet season can be particularly difficult, and leeches are all but guaranteed. On the other hand, swollen rivers make for great kayaking and scenic boat trips during this time. Cycling is doable year-round, but can be challenging in September and early October when the rains really pick up.

Wildlife-Watching

While wildlife-spotting may not be quite as straightforward as in the Serengeti, it is still possible to have some world-class encounters in the Mekong region.

Gibbons are the big draw. You’ll need to arrive at a gibbon colony super early – before dawn in most cases – to have a chance of seeing them, so sleep on-site the night before if it’s an option. Good spots for seeing gibbons include Cat Tien National Park in Vietnam, with its Wild Gibbon Trek; and Cambodian Gibbon Ecotours and the Jahoo Gibbon Camp, both in eastern Cambodia. Also in Cambodia, the Cardamom Tented Camp makes a wonderful base for spotting gibbons and scores of other wildlife. Back in Vietnam, Cat Ba Island is home to one of the world’s most endangered primates, the Cat Ba langur, as well as rare waterfowl.

At Thailand’s remote Khao Yai National Park, the massive jungle is home to one of the world’s largest monsoon forests. Wildlife here includes more than 200 elephants and countless birds. Laos has plenty of wildlife, including the region’s largest population of wild elephants, but spotting them is difficult to impossible.

Birdwatching is also popular throughout the region. Cambodia is the best place in the world to spot six critically endangered species: the giant ibis, white-shouldered ibis, Bengal florican and three species of vulture. The Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary is a premier wetland birdwatching spot. The award-winning Sam Veasna Center runs trips to all the best sites. Off land, the freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin is one of the rarest mammals on earth, with fewer than 100 inhabiting stretches of the Mekong. Kayak with a small pod on the Laos–Cambodia border, or further south near Kratie in eastern Cambodia.

Lastly, interacting in a natural environment with retired domesticated elephants here is possible here, with a few dozen sanctuaries set up for this purpose across the region.

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Bar-bellied pitta bird, Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam | PANURUANGJAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ziplining

Ziplining has, well, taken off in the Mekong region. Laos was the pioneer and is still the undisputed king. The Gibbon Experience in Laos pioneered the use of ziplines to explore the jungle canopy. Visitors hang from a zipline and glide through the forest where the gibbons roam, then overnight