Lonely Planet China

By Stuart Butler

Lonely Planet’s China is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore Beijing’s Forbidden City, climb the Great Wall, and discover sacred Lhasa; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of China and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s China Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of China’s best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 195 maps 

Covers Beijing, Tianjin & Hebei,Liaoning, Jilin, Shandong, Jiangsu, Shanghai, Zhejiang, Fujian, Shanxi, Anhui, Henan, Hubei, Jiangxi, Hunan, Hong Kong, Macau, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, Sichuan, Chongqing, Xinjiang, Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, Qinghai, Tibet

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s China, our most comprehensive guide to China, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Pocket Beijing, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: May 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838690052

Stuart Butler

Stuart Butler, who has lived for most of his life at the western end of the French Pyrenees, is a journalist, guidebook author and award-winning photographer. His areas of speciality are the Pyrenees, Himalya and East Africa. He has written over a hundred guidebooks for Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Bradt, as well as a number of specialist hiking and wildlife watching guides on the Himalaya, France and Spain. He writes frequently about conservation, the environment and hiking for the BBC, Geographical magazine, New York Times, Sierra magazine and the i newspaper. He's also the tourism manager of the Nashulai Maasai Conservancy ( nashulai.com ), a community wildlife reserve in Kenya. He also works with the Himalayan trekking and tour company, Third Rock Adventures ( thirdrockadventures.com ) and manages Nashulai Journeys ( nashulaijourneys.com ), a specialist eco-tourism company with a focus on hiking holidays. Stuart is married with two children, who also enjoy hiking in the Pyrenees. His website is stuartbutlerjournalist.com and walkingwiththemaasai.com .

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

China

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to China

Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time China

Month by Month

Itineraries

Family Travel

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

BEIJING

History

Sights

Tours & Activities

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

THE GREAT WALL

Mutianyu

Badaling

Jiankou

Huanghua Cheng

Gubeikou

Jinshanling

Simatai

TIANJIN & HEBEI

Tianjin

Hebei

Shijiazhuang

Zhengding

Yujiacun

Chengde

Shanhaiguan

Jimingyi

LIAONING

Dalian

Lushun

Dandong

Shenyang

Xingcheng

JILIN

Changbai Shan Nature Reserve

Yanji

Ji’an

Changchun

HEILONGJIANG

Harbin

Mudanjiang

Wudalian Chi

Mohe

SHANDONG

Ji’nan

Zhujiayu

Tai’an

Tai Shan

Qufu

Zoucheng

Qingdao

Lao Shan

Weifang

Yantai

Penglai

JIANGSU

Nanjing

Suzhou

Mudu

Tongli

Zhouzhuang

Luzhi

SHANGHAI

History

Sights

Activities & Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

ZHEJIANG

Hangzhou

Wuzhen

Nanxun

Moganshan

Shaoxing

Jinhua

Putuoshan

Ningbo

FUJIAN

Xiamen

Gulang Yu

Fujian Tulou

Quanzhou

Chongwu

Fuzhou

Wuyi Shan

SHANXI

Datong

Yungang Caves

Daixian

Yong’an Temple

Hanging Monastery

Wutai Shan

Taiyuan

Pingyao

Qikou

Jincheng

Guoyu

SHAANXI

Xi’an

Hua Shan

Hancheng

Yan’an

Yulin

ANHUI

Tunxi

Shexian

Hongcun

Xidi

Pingshan

Huangshan

Jiuhua Shan

Hefei

HENAN

Zhengzhou

Nanjiecun

Song Shan & Dengfeng

Luoyang

Guoliang

Kaifeng

Zhuxian Zhen

HUBEI

Wuhan

Jingzhou

Wudang Shan

Yichang

Shennongjia

Enshi

JIANGXI

Nanchang

Lushan

Jingdezhen

Wuyuan

Sanqing Shan

Longnan

HUNAN

Changsha

Shaoshan

Heng Shan

Zhangjiajie

Dehang

Fenghuang

Hongjiang Old Town

Furong Zhen

HONG KONG

History

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

MACAU

History

Language

Sights

Activities & Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

GUANGDONG

Guangzhou

Foshan

Kaiping

Yangjiang

Zhaoqing

Bāguà Villages

Dinghu Shan Reserve

Qingyuan

Nanling National Forest Park

Shenzhen

Dapeng Fortress

Zhuhai

Chaozhou

Dàoyùnlóu

Shantou

Meizhou

Dabu

Chayang Old Town

Baihou Old Town

HAINAN

Haikou

Around Haikou

Central Highlands

Baoting

East Coast

Bo’ao

Shimei Bay & Ri Yue Bay

Xinglong

Sanya

GUANGXI

Guilin

Jiangtouzhou Ancient Town

Ziyuan

Longji Rice Terraces

Sanjiang

Yangshuo

Xingping

Huangyao

Nanning

Beihai

Pingxiang

Detian Waterfall

Tongling Grand Canyon

Leye

GUIZHOU

Guiyang

Qingyan

Kaili

Langde

Xijiang

Zhaoxing

Basha

Longli

Zhenyuan

Anshun

Xingyi

Chishui

YUNNAN

Central Yunnan

Kunming

Heijing

Jianshui

Yuanyang Rice Terraces

Erhai Lake

Nuodeng

Shaxi

Northwest Yunnan

Lijiang

Baisha

Shuhe Old Town

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Lugu Lake

Shangri-la

Deqin & Kawa Karpo

Nujiang Valley

Liuku

Fugong

Bingzhongluo

Tengchong County

Tengchong

Heshun

Dehong Prefecture

Ruili

Xishuangbanna Region

Jinghong

Menglun

Damenglong

SICHUAN

Central Sichuan

Chengdu

Around Chengdu

Dujiangyan

Emei Shan

Le Shan

Ya’an

Southern Sichuan

Zigong

Yibin

Bamboo Sea

Western Sichuan

Kangding

Northern Garze Prefecture

Southern Garze Prefecture

Northern Sichuan

Four Sisters Mountain

Huanglong National Park

Langzhong

Songpan

Wolong Giant Panda Garden

CHONGQING

Chongqing City

Dazu Buddhist Caves

Laitan

Zhongshan

Wulong

Songji

XINJIANG

Central Xinjiang

Ürümqi

Tian Chi Lake

Turpan

Hami

Kuqa

Southwest Xinjiang

Kashgar

Karakoram Highway

Southern Silk Road

Hotan

Cherchen

Northern Xinjiang

Bu’erjin

Kanas Lake Nature Reserve

Yining

GANSU

Lanzhou

Southern Gansu

Xiahe

Hezuo

Langmusi

Hexi Corridor

Wuwei

Zhangye

Jiayuguan

Dunhuang

Eastern Gansu

Tianshui

Around Tianshui

NINGXIA

Yinchuan

Helan Shan

Zhongwei

Guyuan

Tongxin

INNER MONGOLIA

Hohhot

Erlian

Shangdu

Haila’er

Enhe

Shi Wei

Bayanhot

QINGHAI

Xining

Huzhu Beishan Forest Park

Tongren

Guide

Yushu

Nangchen

Golmud

TIBET

Lhasa

Around Lhasa

Drepung Monastery

Ganden Monastery

Sera Monastery

Ü

Samye

Tsang

Gyantse

Shigatse

Lhatse

Sakya

Everest Region

Tingri

Ngari

Darchen & Mt Kailash

Lake Manasarovar

UNDERSTAND

Understand China

History

People of China

Religion & Philosophy

Arts & Architecture

China’s Landscapes

Martial Arts of China

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBTI+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Air

Land

River

Rail

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Local Transport

Train

China by Train

China’s Train Network

High-Speed Trains

Regular Trains

Tickets

Seats

Ticket Offices & Buying Online

Health

Before You Go

In China

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to China

A passion for Chinese martial arts saw me enrolling in a four-year degree in Chinese at university in London back in the 1990s. They were fun days, when travelling to China was testing but exciting in equal measure. Hotspots such as Pingyao were unheard of, and Shanghai’s Pudong was a cocktail-free flatland. I could say it’s the fantastic food, the awesome landscapes, the thrill of train travel, the delightful people or pitching up in a small town I’ve never been to before, and I wouldn’t be lying. But it’s the Chinese language I still love most of all.

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Tianzifang, Shanghai | RALPH ROZEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Damian Harper, Writer

damian-harper-2011-coljpg

instajpg instagram @damian.harper

For more about our writers.

China’s Top 12

1THE GREAT WALL

If there’s one sight that exclusively belongs to China, it’s the Great Wall. It may be most famously seen snaking into the hills outside Beijing, but get your hiking boots on and set your sights further afield to discover a trail of vestiges across the whole north of China, from the hardy Manchurian northeast to the Silk Road deserts of the northwest, and many points in between.

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The Great Wall at Badaling | APHOTOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Jiankou Great Wall

Beijing’s most authentic section of Great Wall ruin is a sublime portrait of disintegrating brickwork and dilapidated watchtowers, overgrown with saplings and thrust into a splendid mountain panorama.

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Jiankou Great Wall | ANDRIUS ALEKSANDRAVICIUS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Jiayuguan Fort

With a stunning backdrop of snow-capped mountains, this mighty fortress stands firmly against the relentless desert winds of Gansu province, traditionally guarding the western entrance to China. Nearby relics of the Great Wall run to wind-scoured beacon platforms and Ming dynasty vestiges, slowly returning to the soil.

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Jiayuguan Fort | VIEW STOCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Tiger Mountain Great Wall

Climbing up a steep embankment by the Yalu River outside Dandong in Liaoning province, this length of superbly named Ming dynasty Great Wall is a top choice to flee the crowds, while putting you right on the border with North Korea.

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Tiger Moutain Great Wall | STEFAN BRUDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2THE BIG OUTDOORS

You haven’t really experienced China until you’ve had your socks well and truly blown off by one of its scenic marvels. This is a big, big country and the sheer landscape diversity can make it hard to know where to begin. So pick according to taste: there’s everything from glistening rice terraces to emerald karst peaks, high-altitude glaciers or sand dunes taller than the Empire State Building.

Yangshuo

You’ve almost certainly seen Yangshuo’s surreally beautiful karst peaks in dazzling magazine spreads – now see them with your own eyes. It’s hard to exaggerate the beauty of these mossy-green limestone peaks: ride a bamboo raft along the river and grasp why this stunning landscape has inspired poets and painters for centuries.

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Karst peaks and the Li River around Guilin, Yangshuo | APHOTOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Yuanyang Rice Terraces

Possessing an almost surreal allure and hewn from hills that range spectacularly off into the far beyond, these rice terraces are off-the-scale beautiful. Any time of the year will do, but winter sees the terraces flooded with water, catching the morning or late afternoon sun and turning the wow factor up high.

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Yuanyang rice terraces | WEERAPORN PUTTIWONGRAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Silk Road

The desertscapes and vanished Buddhist civilisations of northwest China lie along the Silk Road, where the land steadily merges with Central Asia. You may not be setting off on camel-back from Xi’an, but some of China’s most unmissable sights await, however you travel.

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Dunhuang, Gansu | EASTFOOTAGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3DUMPLINGS, DUCK AND DIM SUM

With its unexpected flavours, ever-tempting aromas and endless surprises, China is a culinary adventure every time and in every sense. To help get you get your bearings: point your chopsticks west for zing, zest and spice, north for hearty, salty and more savoury tastes, east for fresh and ever-so lightly-seasoned seafood and due south for dim sum. Hey, they didn’t film Endless Summer II here for nothing, dude.

Xiaolongbao

Shanghai’s moreish bite-size snacks are quite simply once-bitten, forever smitten. They pack a serious amount of juicy flavour into small dimensions and serve as a meal in themselves, but be on the alert to jets of super-heated meat juice spurting all over the tablecloth.

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Xiaolongbao | TAB62/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Chongqing Hotpot

Chongqing old-timers sit around town devouring this sweltering infusion in all weathers. For the novice, hotpot is a volcanic wake-up call that requires gradual adjusting to. But once you have acquired the taste – and the cast-iron palate – there’s no going back.

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Chongqin hotpot | YANG YIDONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Peking Duck

You can Peking Duck up and down the land, but experts insist the best duck needs to be served within waddling distance of Beijing’s Forbidden City, roasted in a brick oven with fruitwood and prepared with every attention to detail and maximisation of flavour.

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Peking Duck | BLUEORANGE STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4RIVER & HARBOUR CRUISES

Getting waterborne gets you out of the fast lane to see China’s panoramas unfurl in slow motion. It’s a time to relax, ease into low gear and remind yourself of the slower sensations of travel, where getting from A to B is not as important as being somewhere right in between. Cruises range from the dazzlingly urban to jaw-dropping geological wonders.

Cruising up Victoria Harbour

It may be a brief voyage, but the cruise across Victoria Harbour permits unrivalled views of the steel and neon brilliance of Hong Kong’s skyscrapers, set to a backdrop of hills. The Star Ferry has been transporting passengers from the Kowloon peninsula to Hong Kong island since the 19th century; for little more than a pittance, it’s possibly the world’s best value cruise.

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Star Ferry crossing Victoria Harbour | SORBIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Yangzi River Cruise

Starting off as snowmelt way off in the Qinghai-Tibet plateau, the mighty Yangzi River – China’s longest – goes through several name changes before it pours through the Three Gorges in between Chongqing and Yichang, themselves carved through the millennia by the river’s inexorable flow. The gorges are a truly unique experience that should never be rushed.

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Three Gorges, Yangzi River | VIEW STOCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Li River

Welcome to the hypnotising karst scenery of northeast Guangxi province, on a leisurely four-hour journey from Guilin to the beauty of the landscape around Yangshuo.

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Cruise boat on the Li River | DELPIXEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5SACRED CHINA

From the esoteric mysteries of Tibetan Buddhism to the palpable magic of Taoist mountains and the harmonies of Confucian temples – not to forget the countless churches, mosques and shrines – China’s sacred realm is where the supernatural and natural worlds converge. It’s a domain of faith and mystery, where the stresses of modern life are replaced with worship and prayer.

Puning Temple, Chengde

Size up the colossal wooden effigy of the Goddess of Mercy in the Mahayana Hall, who dispenses limitless compassion upon the silent flow of worshippers at her outsize feet.

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Puning Temple | CHU YONG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Wudang Shan

A mountain infused with the spirits and legends of the Taoist martial arts, the birthplace of Taichi invites unhurried explorations of its mist-wreathed peaks, temples and vistas.

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Wudang Shan | KATOOSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Labrang Monastery

Tap into the ineffable spiritual mystique of southern Gansu’s primary place of pilgrimage for legions of Tibetans. Join them walking the kora or hike off into the hills and grasslands.

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Labrang Monastery | SILVIA CAMPI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6IMPERIAL GRANDEUR

China’s turbulent history is indivisible from the ascendency and inevitable decline of ancient dynasties – Mongolian, Manchurian and Han Chinese – which left an imposing trail of antiquity across the nation, from the breath-taking majesty of China’s imperial palaces to the monumental architecture of its surviving city walls which rise up around some of the land’s most notable former dynastic capitals

Forbidden City

Home to two dynasties of emperors and their concubines, China’s most imposing imperial residence sits at the heart of Beijing, a place of expansive courtyards, solemn halls and imposing magnificence.

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Forbidden City | ZHANGSHUANG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Summer Palace

An unbridled display of traditional Chinese aesthetics with all those crucial and charming ingredients: hills, bridges, pavilions and temples, with spectacular sunsets that turn the waters of Kunming Lake copper, gold and bronze.

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Summer Palace | EXPATPOSTCARDS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Xi’an City Walls

Most people are here for the Terracotta Warriors, but Xi’an’s formidable Ming walls better define the city, making for a superb half-day out, either on foot, or on bicycle.

Top Experiences

7TRADITIONAL VILLAGE RHYTHMS

China isn’t just gleaming skyscrapers and heaving flyovers, most of the land is a calm expanse of rural life. The tempo in China’s ancient villages is as unhurried as the change of the seasons, which set the pace for a more relaxing take on the land. Traditional China can be found here too: in the architecture, the clothing, the dialects and of course, the food.

Xinye

Take yourself off to this gorgeous Zhejiang village to meditate on the rhythms of rural life. It’s a charming place designed with an eye for traditional Chinese harmony, balance and aesthetics.

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Xinye | TIAN YU MáO/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Pingyao

China’s best-preserved walled town – by a long shot – has to be seen, especially come evening, when the red lanterns are hung out on the streets and alleys.

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Pingyao | SILVIA CAMPI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Fujian Tulou

Each one a village in itself, the walled, fortress-like roundhouses of Fujian are an astonishing and imposing sight. Spend the night in one, to fully immerse yourself in their charms.

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Fujian Tulou | ATOSAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8EXPLORE THE FARTHER REACHES

Head in the direction of the borderlands and a colourful patchwork of diverse cultures begins to appear, with distinctive languages, architecture, clothing, cuisine and customs. Pair this with the context of rural landscapes and local handicrafts and you’ve little reason to want to leave.

Shi Wei

Winter might be staggeringly cold at this village in Inner Mongolia (where the local Russians all grow up speaking Mandarin), but arrive in mid-summer for early sunup and horse-riding by the Russian border.

Tibet Borderlands

Central Tibet is hard to access, but the historic Tibetan provinces of Kham and Amdo are not, so consider exploring these regions (southwest Gansu, Qinghai, west Sichuan and north Yunnan provinces) instead, for Tibetan culture and heritage.

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Xiahe, Gansu | SILVIA CAMPI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lijiang

Perhaps China’s most famous community and rightly so, famed for its distinctive Naxi culture and outstanding scenery. If you needed it, it’s yet another reason to come to Yunnan province.

Top Experiences

9URBAN EXTRAVAGANZA

Though Shanghai is most synonymous with cashed-up consumers thronging chic malls, fashionistas sipping drinks in snazzy cocktail bars and gastronomes joining the queue at the latest culinary sensation, this is a land that has urbanised at a dizzying rate across the board. Cityscapes are never far away in China and many are quite simply show-stopping.

Beijing

China’s capital and centre of political power is a riveting blend of ancient city and modern metropolis, with the delightful hutong and the imperial grandeur of the Forbidden City at its heart.

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Beijing | DUKAI PHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Shanghai

Find out about the city that everyone – from architects to foodies, cocktail connoisseurs, urban travellers and interior designers – is talking about.

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Shanghai | IAKOV KALININ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hangzhou

One of China’s most beautiful and relaxing urban settings, with the romantic West Lake – a serene vignette of willow-lined shores, pagodas, boats and scenic hills – pulling out all the stops.

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Hangzhou | ZHU DIFENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

10 HIKING INTO THE HILLS

Despite urban encroachment, it’s never hard to hike away from it all. This is, after all, one of the world’s largest nations with a huge topographical diversity that means there’s always a hiking trail nearby, winding off into the valleys, climbing into the mountains or disappearing into forests of rippling bamboo.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Yunnan province’s best-known hike outside Lijiang is not for the faint-hearted, but it’s an exciting, once-in-a-lifetime journey into some of the most dramatic landscapes that China has to offer, alongside a major tributary of the Yangzi River.

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Tiger Leaping Gorge | MARTINHO SMART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ganden Kora

This stunning kora offers beautiful valley views, accompanied by unforgettable impressions of pilgrims and monks prostrating themselves and offering prayers at shrines along this sacred path in Tibet.

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Ganden Kora | STEFAN AUTH/GETTY IMAGES ©

Langmusi

Tempting hikes radiate out in almost every direction from this charming monastic town straddling the Gansu-Sichuan border in the adventurous west of China.

Top Experiences

11 GROTTOES & CAVE SCULPTURE

China’s Buddhist cave sculpture is a rich vein of cultural heritage that you cannot afford to miss. The artistry, technical skill, profound sacredness and sheer antiquity of each network of caves is jaw dropping, so give yourself enough time to do them justice.

Mogao Grottoes, Dunhuang

Dunhuang has a crop of fine sights – including colossal sand dunes and transfixing desertscapes – but the Mogao Caves are what all the fuss is about. The crème de la crème of China’s astonishing Buddhist cave heritage, the statues here are ineffably sublime, entirely beautiful and worth the long trip to Dunhuang.

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Mogao Grottoes | LOONGER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Yungang Caves

The Yungang Caves house some of China’s most astonishing statues, displaying pronounced artistic influences from as far away as Greece and Persia.

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Yungang Caves | MEIQIANBAO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Longmen Grottoes

A breath-taking display of Buddhist cave sculpture hewn from the limestone cliffs by the Yi River outside Luoyang in Henan province, dating from the late 5th century.

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Longmen Grottoes | BULE SKY STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

12 CLIMATIC EXTREMES

China has more than enough to satisfy thrill-seekers, crowd-avoiders or just the plain inquisitive. Whether you want to find yourself as far from the sea as is terrestrially possible or look up at the world’s tallest mountain, China is a place of superlatives and extremes.

Everest Base Camp

Rise early for dramatic images onto the north face of the world’s highest mountain in the morning sun. The nearby Rongphu Monastery is the highest in the world, making for dramatic images with the vast peak rising up in the background.

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Everest Base Camp | SPACES IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Turpan

China’s hottest spot and the world’s second lowest depression, where the thermostat has topped 48 degrees centigrade. Step from the air-conditioned chill of your taxi and feel the heat hit you like an express train.

Beihongcun

China’s northernmost village is found in Heilongjiang province, where temperatures sink to unimaginable lows. The flipside is long summer days with only two hours of night, and the chance to see the northern lights.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Yuán (元; ¥)

Language

Mandarin, Cantonese

Visas

While visas are needed for most visits to mainland China, visa-free transits of up to 144 hours are available in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong, Chengdu, Xi’an and other places.

Money

ATMs are plentiful in big cities and towns. Credit cards less widely used; always carry cash.

Mobile Phones

A mobile phone should be the first choice for calls, but ensure your mobile is unlocked for use in China if taking your own. SIM cards can be bought at the arrivals area at major airports.

Time

China Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours)

When to Go

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High Season (May–Aug)

A Prepare for downpours and crowds at traveller hotspots.

A Accommodation prices peak during the first week of the May holiday period.

Shoulder (mid-Feb–Apr, Sep & Oct)

A Expect warmer days in spring and cooler days in autumn.

A In the north this is the optimal season, with fresh weather and clear skies.

A Accommodation prices peak in early-October holidays.

Low Season (Nov–mid-Feb)

A Domestic tourism is at a low ebb, but things are busy and expensive for Chinese New Year.

A Weather is bitterly cold in the north and at altitude, and only warm in the far south.

Useful Websites

China blocks Facebook, Whats-App, Instagram, Gmail and many other sites. Access them via roaming, or by subscribing to a VPN service.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/china) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

WeChat Messaging and social media app used by virtually all Chinese.

Sup China (https://supchina.com) Chinese news stories; home of the Chinese current affairs Sinica Podcast.

Microsoft Translator Excellent voice-activated translation app.

Pleco Chinese Dictionary Versatile dictionary app.

Air Pollution (http://aqicn.org/city/shanghai/) Real-time Air Quality Index (AQI) for Shanghai and cities across China.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than ¥200

A Dorm bed: ¥40–60

A Food markets, street food: ¥40

A Bike hire: ¥20

A Free museums

Midrange: ¥200–1000

A Double room in a midrange hotel: ¥200–600

A Lunch and dinner in a local restaurant: ¥80–100

A Drinks in a bar: ¥60

A Taxis: ¥60

Top end: More than ¥1000

A Double room in a top-end hotel: ¥600 and up

A Lunch and dinner in an excellent local or hotel restaurant: ¥300

A Shopping at top-end stores: ¥300

A Two Chinese opera tickets: ¥300

Opening Hours

China officially has a five-day working week; Saturday and Sunday are holidays.

Banks, offices and government departments 9am–5pm (or 6pm) Monday to Friday; may close for two hours in the afternoon. Many open Saturday, some Sunday.

Post offices Generally open daily (9am–5pm).

Restaurants Around 10.30am–11pm; some shut at 2pm and reopen at 5pm or 6pm.

Bars Open late afternoon, shut midnight or later.

Shops, department stores and shopping malls Daily 10am–10pm.

Arriving in China

Beijing Capital International Airport Airport Express (30 minutes) trains to city every 10 minutes. Taxis (45 minutes) cost ¥90 to ¥140.

Beijing Daxing International Airport The ‘New Airport Line’ (20 minutes) meets the Beijing subway (50 minutes into town). Taxis to the centre cost ¥200.

Pudong International Airport (Shanghai) Maglev trains (eight minutes) run every 20 minutes. Metro Line 2 (45 minutes) reaches Hongqiao Airport. Taxis (one hour) to central Shanghai cost ¥180.

Hong Kong International Airport Airport Express trains run every 10 minutes. Taxis to Kowloon/Central cost HK$270/370.

Getting Around

Despite being a vast country, it’s straightforward to navigate around China by rail and bus.

Air Affordable and excellent for long distances; large range of routes but delays are common.

Train Very reasonably priced (except high-speed rail, which is still excellent value for money) and very efficient.

Bus Cheaper and slower than trains, but crucial for remote destinations.

Car China is too large with too many restrictions to make this a viable option.

For much more on getting around.

First Time China

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Check the validity of your passport

A Make any necessary bookings (for accommodation and travel)

A Secure visa and additional permits well in advance

A Organise travel insurance

A Work out your itinerary

A Inform your credit-/debit-card company and bank about the countries you’ll be visiting

A Check to see if you can use your mobile phone

A Install a VPN on your phone and laptop

What to Pack

A Passport

A Credit card

A Phrasebook

A Money belt

A Electrical adaptor

A Medical kit

A Insect repellent

A Mobile-phone charger

A Sunscreen

A Sunhat and shades

A Waterproof clothing

A Torch

A Earplugs

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Be patient and understand that many things you may take for granted – orderly queues, international levels of English ability, personal space, etc – may not exist.

A Although they are not that user friendly, taking local buses instead of taxis could mean you’re the only foreigner on board and a local could well strike up a conversation with you.

A Sightseeing on foot is an excellent way to get under the skin of Chinese cities and towns.

A Carrying a stash of toilet paper is crucial; be prepared to deal with squat toilets.

A Carry hand sanitiser as not all toilets in rural areas have taps for washing your hands.

A You will need your passport with you when you buy train and bus tickets and also for admission to certain museums and sights.

A Treat China as an adventure and learning curve, rather than purely as a holiday.

A Dining in street markets is a great way to eat out of your comfort zone and discover the full, flavoursome variety of Chinese cooking.

What to Wear

You can pretty much wear casual clothes throughout your entire journey in China, unless dining in a smart restaurant in Shanghai, Beijing or Hong Kong, when you may need to dress less casually. In general, trousers (pants) and shirts or T-shirts for guys, and dresses, skirts or trousers for women will serve you well nationwide. Shorts and short sleeves are generally fine in summer, but don long trousers and long sleeves in the evenings to keep mosquitoes at bay. A sunhat can be invaluable, as can sunglasses. A thin waterproof coat and sturdy shoes are a good idea for all-weather hiking and sightseeing. Winter is a different ball game up north and especially at altitude: you’ll need several layers, thick shirts, jerseys, warm coats, jackets, gloves, socks and a hat.

Money

Cards Credit and debit cards, particularly Visa and MasterCard, are increasingly accepted in tourist towns and big cities, but always carry enough cash to tide you over for a couple of days.

ATMs 24-hour ATMs are available at Bank of China and ICBC branches.

Changing money You can change money at hotels, large branches of Bank of China, and international airports.

Mobile payment apps Chinese widely use the mobile payment apps WeChat Pay and Alipay, but their use is not straightforward for foreign travellers.

For more information, see here.

Bargaining

Haggling is standard procedure in markets, and to a lesser extent in local shops where prices are not clearly marked. There’s no harm in coming in really low, especially in the tourist markets of Beijing and Shanghai, but remain polite at all times.

Tipping

Hotels Porters may expect a tip.

Restaurants Tipping is not expected, but a service charge might be levied at more expensive places.

Taxis Drivers do not expect tips.

Language

It is entirely possible to travel around China without hearing any English at all. Tourist-industry employees are more likely to speak English. In the big cities such as Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong, English is more widely spoken and understood, but generally only among educated Chinese or those who have frequent dealings with foreigners. In smaller towns and the countryside, English is often of little or no use.

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Etiquette

China is a pretty relaxed country regarding etiquette, but be aware of a few things:

Greetings and goodbyes Shake hands, but never kiss someone’s cheek. Say ‘nǐhǎo’ for hello and ‘zàijiàn’ for goodbye.

Asking for help To ask for directions start with ‘Qǐng wèn…’ (‘Can I ask…’); say ‘Duìbuqǐ’ (‘Sorry’) to apologise.

Religion Dress sensitively when visiting Buddhist (especially in Tibet) and Taoist temples, churches and mosques.

Eating and drinking Help fill your neighbour’s plate at the dinner table. Toast the host and others at the table. Wait till toasting starts before drinking from your glass. Offer your cigarettes around if you smoke. Always offer to buy drinks in a bar, but never fight over the drink/food tab if someone else wants to pay (offer at least once).

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Le Shan Grand Buddha, Sichuan | LMSPENCER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, Hunan | APHOTOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Harbin Ice & Snow Festival, January to February

Monlam Great Prayer Festival, February or March

Spring Festival, January, February or March

Luoyang Peony Festival, April

Naadam, July

January

North China is in a deep freeze but the south is less bitter; preparations for the Lunar New Year get under way well in advance, arriving any time between late January and March.

z Spring Festival

The Lunar New Year is family focused, with dining on dumplings and gift-giving of hóngbāo (red envelopes stuffed with money). Most families feast together on New Year’s Eve, then China goes on a big week-long holiday. Expect fireworks, parades, temple fairs and lots of colour.

1 Harbin Ice & Snow Festival

Heilongjiang’s good-looking capital Harbin is aglow with rainbow lights refracted through fanciful buildings and statues carved from blocks of ice. It’s peak season and outrageously cold.

1 Yuanyang Rice Terraces

The watery winter is the optimum season for the rice terraces’ spectacular combination of liquid and light. Don’t forget your camera, or your sense of wonder.

February

North China remains shockingly icy and dry, but things are slowly warming up in Hong Kong and Macau. The Lunar New Year could well be under way, but sort out any tickets well in advance.

z Monlam Great Prayer Festival

Held during two weeks from the third day of the Tibetan New Year and celebrated with spectacular processions (except in Lhasa or the Tibet Autonomous Region). Huge silk thangka (sacred art) are unveiled and, on the last day, a statue of the Maitreya Buddha is conveyed around.

z Lantern Festival

Held 15 days after the spring festival, this was traditionally a time when Chinese hung out highly decorated lanterns. Pingyao in Shanxi is an atmospheric place to soak it up (sometimes held as late as March).

March

China comes to life after a long winter, though it remains glacial at high altitudes. The mercury climbs in Hong Kong and abrasive dust storms billow into Beijing, scouring everything in their path. It’s still low season.

1 Fields of Yellow

Delve into south Chinese countryside to be bowled over by a landscape saturated in bright-yellow rapeseed. In some parts of China, such as lovely Wuyuan in Jiangxi province, it’s a real tourist draw. In colder provinces like Qinghai, you can catch them in summer.

April

Most of China is warm and it’s a good time to be on the road. The Chinese take several days off for the Qingming festival, a traditional date for honouring their ancestors and now an official holiday.

z A Good Soaking

Flush away the dirt, demons and sorrows of the old year and bring in the fresh at the Dai New Year, with its water-splashing festival in Xishuangbanna. Taking an umbrella is pointless.

1 Luoyang Peony Festival

Wangcheng Park in Luoyang bursts into full-coloured bloom with its peony festival: pop a flower garland on your head and join in the floral fun.

z Third Moon Fair

This Bai ethnic minority festival is another excellent reason to pitch up in the lovely north Yunnan town of Dali. It’s a week of horse racing, singing and merrymaking from the 15th day of the third lunar month (usually April) to the 21st.

3 Formula 1 Chinese Grand Prix

Petrolheads and aficionados of speed, burnt rubber and hairpin bends flock to Shanghai for some serious motor racing at the track near Anting. Get your hotel room booked early – it’s one of the most glamorous events on the Shanghai calendar (www.formula1.com).

May

Mountain regions, such as Sichuan’s Jiuzhaigou National Park, are in full bloom. For the first four days of May, China is on holiday (Labour Day). Buddha’s Birthday falls on the 8th day of the fourth lunar month, usually in May.

z Buddha’s Birthday in Xiahe

A fascinating time to enjoy the Tibetan charms of Gansu province’s Xiahe, when Buddhist monks make charitable handouts to beggars and the streets throng with pilgrims.

3 Circling the Mountain Festival

On Paoma Shan, Kangding’s famous festival celebrates the birthday of Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha, with a magnificent display of horse racing, wrestling and a street fair.

2 Great Wall Marathon

Experience the true meaning of pain at this 20-year-old event. Not for the infirm or unfit. See www.great-wall-marathon.com for more details.

June

Most of China is hot and getting hotter. Once-frozen areas, such as Jilin’s Heaven Lake, are accessible – and nature springs instantly to life. The great China peak tourist season is cranking up.

1 Festival of Aurora Borealis

The Northern Lights are sometimes visible during the Festival of Aurora Borealis in Mohe, the ultra-far north of China, not far from the Russian border. Even if you don’t get to see the (elusive) multicoloured glow, the June midnight sun is a memorable experience.

3 Dragon Boat Festival

Head to Zhenyuan or the nearest large river and catch all the water-borne drama of dragon boat racers in this celebration of one of China’s most famous poets. The Chinese traditionally eat zòngzi (triangular glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in reed leaves) on the day of the festival.

3 Dhama Festival

This three-day festival in Gyantse in Tibet kicks off on 20 June for horse racing, wrestling, archery, yak races and more.

3 Shangri-la Horse Racing Festival

In mid- to late June, the Yunnan town of Shangri-la (Zhongdian) lets go of the reins with this celebration of horse racing, coupled with singing, dancing and merriment on the southeastern fringes of Tibet.

3 Tagong Horse Festival

Celebrated on varying dates each year based on the Tibetan calendar, this festival on a hilltop overlooking Tagong’s two monasteries and surrounding mountain peaks is a breathtaking display of Tibetan horsemanship.

July

Typhoons can wreak havoc with travel down south, lashing the Guangdong and Fujian coastlines. Plenty of rain sweeps across China: the ‘plum rains’ give Shanghai a big soaking, and the grasslands of Inner Mongolia and Qinghai turn green.

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Harbin Ice & Snow Festival | DUKAI PHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Dragon Boat racing, Zhenyan | KEREN SU/GETTY IMAGES ©

z Torch Festival, Dali

Held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month (usually July), this festival is held throughout Yunnan by the Bai and Yi minorities. Making for great photos, flaming torches are paraded at night through streets and fields, and go up outside shops around town.

3 Naadam

Mongolian wrestling, horse racing, archery and more during the week-long Naadam festival on the grasslands of Inner Mongolia, when the grass is at its summer greenest.

6 Dalian International Beer Festival

Xinghai Sq in the Liaoning port city is steeped in the aroma of hops and ale, and strewn with beer tents in this 12-day celebration of more than 400 international and Chinese beers from a plethora of breweries.

August

The temperature gauge of Yangzi’s ‘three ovens’ – Chongqing, Wuhan and Nanjing – gets set to blow. Rainstorms hit Beijing, which is at peak heat, as is Shanghai. So head uphill to Lushan, Moganshan, Huangshan or Guoliangcun.

3 Litang Horse Festival

Occasionally cancelled in recent years (restrictions on travel may suddenly appear) or shrunk from one week to one day, this festival in West Sichuan is a breathtaking display of Tibetan horsemanship, archery and more.

6 Qingdao International Beer Festival

Slake that chronic summer thirst with a round of beers and devour a plate of mussels in Shandong’s best-looking port town, a former German concession and home of the famous Tsingtao beer label.

September

Come to Beijing and stay put – September is part of the fleetingly lovely tiāngāo qìshuǎng (‘the sky is high and the air is fresh’) autumnal season, which is an event in itself. It’s also a pleasant time to visit the rest of north China.

2 International Mount Tai Climbing Festival

Held annually since 1987, this festival at the sacred Taoist mountain of Tai Shan in Shandong draws hundreds of trail runners, mountain bikers, climbers and worshippers of all ages and abilities.

5 Mid-Autumn Festival

Also called the moon festival, it’s celebrated by devouring daintily prepared moon cakes stuffed with bean paste, egg yolk, walnuts and more. With a full moon, it’s a romantic occasion for lovers and a special time for families. Held on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month.

1 International Qiantang River Tide Observing Festival

The most popular time to witness the surging river tides sweeping at up to 40km/h along the Qiantang River in Yanguan is during the mid-autumn festival, though you can catch the wall of water during the beginning and middle of every lunar month.

z Confucius’ Birthday

Head to the Confucius Temple in Qufu for the 28 September birthday celebrations of axiom-quipping philosopher, sage and patriarch Confucius.

October

The first week of October can be hellish if you’re on the road: the National Day holiday kicks off, so everywhere is swamped. Go mid-month instead, when everywhere is deserted. Weather across China is appealing: it’s cooling down and leaves are turning golden, bronze and red.

5 Hairy Crabs in Shanghai

Now’s the time to sample delicious hairy crabs in Shanghai; they are at their best – male and female crabs eaten together with shots of lukewarm Shaoxing rice wine – between October and December.

z Miao New Year

Load up with rice wine and get on down to Guizhou for the ethnic festivities in the very heart of the minority-rich southwest.

z Kurban Bairam (Gǔěrbāng Jié)

Catch the four-day festivities of the Muslim festival of sacrifice in communities across China; the festival is at its liveliest and most colourful in Kashgar.

November

Most of China is getting pretty cold as tourist numbers drop and holidaymakers begin to flock south for sun and the last pockets of warmth.

0 Surfing Hainan

The peak surfing season kicks off in Ri Yue Bay (Sun and Moon Bay) in Hainan, where the island’s best surf rolls in. Hordes of Chinese flee the cold mainland for these warmer climes.

December

The lakes freeze over, Beijingers get their skates on, and shopping malls put up the Christmas tinsel. Don’t expect a white one, though. Snow is a non-event in Beijing’s dry winters.

0 Christmas Day

It’s far from an official Chinese festival, but Christmas (圣诞节, Shèngdàn Jié) is an increasingly big deal on the commercial calendar. Shopping zones in larger cities come alive with decorations, and international hotels put on festive events.

z New Year’s Eve

Chinese New Year being a family affair, the Western New Year (元旦, Yuándàn) is an excuse for young Chinese to have fun with friends. Expect lots of parties at venues in Shanghai and Beijing.

Itineraries

Northern Tour

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4 WEEKS

China’s richest seam of historic antiquity runs through the rugged, dry north of the country. This route embraces all the north’s signature sights, all the way from Beijing and the Great Wall via the Terracotta Warriors to the Silk Road of the distant northwest.

Beijing is fundamental to this tour and the north, so give yourself five days to explore the Forbidden City, size up the Great Wall, the Summer Palace and delve along the city’s hutong (narrow alleyways). The splendour of the Yungang Caves outside the city of Datong should put you in a Buddhist mood, heightened by a few nights on monastic Wutai Shan. Make a three-day stopover in the ancient walled town of Pingyao, followed by the historic city of Kaifeng in Henan, once the traditional home of China’s small community of Chinese Jews. Move on to Luoyang and the Buddhist spectacle of the Longmen Caves and the Shaolin Temple, also within reach. Four days’ sightseeing in Xi’an brings you face to face with the Army of Terracotta Warriors and allows time for the Taoist mysteries of Hua Shan. Xi’an traditionally marked the start of the Silk Road, which you can follow through Gansu province all the way to the oasis town of Dunhuang, and beyond.

Itineraries

Yangzi River Tour

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4 WEEKS

This epic tour follows the astonishingly long Yangzi River, from the verdant foothills of the Himalayas to the bustling boom town of Shanghai.

After exploring north Yunnan’s ancient Naxi town of Lijiang, pick up the trail of the Jinsha River (Gold Sand River, which spills down from Tibet and swells into the Yangzi River) on a breathtaking multi-day hike along Tiger Leaping Gorge. Rest your worn-out legs before discovering the scattered villages and old towns around Lijiang, including Shaxi and Shuhe on the old Tea Horse Road, and being blown away by the magnificent views of Yulong Xueshan. Also consider (warmer months only) a trip from Lijiang northeast towards west Sichuan and the gorgeous Lugu Lake on the provincial border, where you can spend several days unwinding by the lakeside. During the winter months this entire area is snowbound, so you may have to fly on from Lijiang. Daily minibuses do the long run from Lugu Lake to Xichang in Sichuan, from where you can reach Yibin and then Chongqing. Alternatively, return to Lijiang to fly to Chongqing, home of the spicy and searing Chongqing hotpot and gateway to the Three Gorges. Detour by bus to the stunning landscapes and natural beauty of Chishui on the Guizhou border to relax, unwind and explore the region before returning by bus to urban Chongqing. You’ll need around three days in Chongqing for the sights in town and for a journey to the Buddhist Caves and religious carvings at Dazu. Then hop on a cruise vessel (or even a bus followed by a cruise) to Yichang in Hubei through the magnificent Three Gorges. Journey from Yichang to the Yangzi River city of Wuhan via the walled town of Jingzhou, where it’s worth spending the night. After two days in Wuhan, jump on a bus to Lushan in Jiangxi province, from where you can head into the Yangzi River province of Anhui to clamber into the the mists of Huangshan. Beyond lies the former capital city of Nanjing and its imposing city wall and Yangzi River setting, while a meander further east eventually deposits you in Shanghai via a delightful string of canal towns – Suzhou, Tongli, Luzhi and Zhujiajiao. Explore Shanghai and consider launching yourself into the East–Southwest Rural Tour.

Itineraries

Silk Road Tour

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5 WEEKS

This breathtaking journey takes you from the must-see Terracotta Warriors, via the Buddhist heritage of Gansu, to the vast desert distances of Xinjiang and far-flung Kashgar.

From the southernmost extents of the Silk Road at Xi’an, discover one of imperial China’s most iconic remains at the Army of Terracotta Warriors and, for a major workout, climb the precipitous Taoist mountain of Hua Shan – just don’t look down. Back in Xi’an, explore the Muslim Quarter to feast on local Hui specialities – one of the culinary high points of China travel – and climb atop the imposing city walls. Hop aboard the train to Lanzhou but get off in southeast Gansu at Tianshui for the remarkable Buddhist grottoes at verdant Maiji Shan. From Lanzhou you have the option to disengage temporarily from the Silk Road to ramble along the fringes of the Tibetan world in the Buddhist monastic settlements of Xiahe and Langmusi. The Hexi Corridor draws you on to the ancient Great Wall outpost of Jiayuguan, via the Silk Road stopover town of Wuwei and the Great Buddha Temple with its oversized effigy of a reclining Sakyamuni in Zhangye. Stand on the wind-blasted ramparts of Jiayuguan Fort, the last major stronghold of imperial China, and tramp alongside westerly remnants of the Great Wall. The delightful oasis outpost of Dunhuang is one of China’s tidiest and most pleasant towns, with the mighty sand dunes of the Singing Sands Mountains pushing up from the south, a scattered array of sights in the surrounding desert and some excellent food. The town is also the hopping-off point for China’s splendid hoard of Buddhist art, the spellbinding Mogao Grottoes. From Dunhuang you can access the mighty northwestern Uyghur province of Xinjiang via the melon town of Hami before continuing to Turpan and Ürümqi. Consider also spending the night in a yurt or camping on the shores of mountainous Tian Chi Lake. Thread your way by rail through a string of Silk Road towns to the Central Asian outpost of Kashgar, or reach the distant Uyghur town via the Marco Polo–journeyed southern Silk Road along the cusp of the Taklamakan Desert. In Kashgar, hatch exciting plans to conquer the Karakoram Hwy or, in the other direction, work out how to get back into China proper.

Itineraries

Coastal China

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4 WEEKS

This coastal tour journeys through China’s largest collection of concession-era heritage as well as big-ticket port towns, all set to a sublime maritime backdrop.

From Beijing, zip to Tianjin en route to the Ming dynasty garrison town of Shanhaiguan on the edge of Manchuria. Beyond the ancient port town of Xingcheng and around the coast lies urbane Dalian and trips to the North Korean border at Dandong, or the ferry crossing to Yantai en route to a two-day sojourn around breezy Qingdao. Cashing in on dashing Shanghai is crucial – allow five to six days to tick off surrounding sights, including a trip to the cultured former southern Song dynasty capital of Hangzhou. Work your way south around the coast to Xiamen to capture some of the magic of Gulang Yu, using the port town as a base to explore the roundhouses around Yongding. Conclude the tour feasting on dim sum and getting in step with the rhythms of Hong Kong before surrendering to the Portuguese lilt of Macau, or go further along the coast to the sleepy port town of Beihai in Guangxi and bounce over the sea in a boat to the volcanic outpost of Weizhou Island.

Itineraries

Big Ticket Tour

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2 WEEKS

Tick off the top sights on this diverse tour that covers everything from antiquities to some of China’s most awesome landscapes, capped with the modern and bustling allure of Hong Kong.

Give yourself four days for Beijing’s mandatory highlights before zipping by high-speed G-class train to Xi’an to inspect the Terracotta Warriors, walk around the city’s formidable Ming dynasty walls and climb the granite peaks of Taoist Hua Shan. Then climb aboard the 10-hour overnight high-speed D-class sleeper to pulsating Shanghai. After three days of sightseeing, museum-going, shopping and sizing up the skyscrapers of Pudong, detour for a day to the former southern Song dynasty capital of Hangzhou, before flying from either Hangzhou or Shanghai to Guilin for some of China’s most serene and timeless panoramas amid the breathtaking karst landscapes of Yangshuo. For a fitting and natural conclusion to your voyage, fly straight from Guilin to Hong Kong, or head by high-speed train first to Guangzhou and then by high-speed train to the former British territory. Squeeze in a day exploring Macau to add a Portuguese complexion to your voyage.

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Traffic in Hong Kong | ADRIENNE PITTS/LONELY PLANET ©

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Riding the Karakoram Highway | MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

East–Southwest Rural Tour

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2 WEEKS

Flee the big cities and get rural on this tour that takes you through some of China’s best-looking villages and water towns, as well as choice scenic areas and sublime panoramas.

From Shanghai, head to Zhujiajiao for its canalside charms, followed by the pretty water towns and villages of Jiangsu and north Zhejiang, including Tongli, Luzhi and Wuzhen. From either Suzhou or Hangzhou, bus it to Tunxi in Anhui province to spend several days exploring the delightful ancient Huizhou villages of Hongcun, Xidi in Yixian and Shexian and to scale gorgeous Huangshan. Hop on a bus again to cross the border to Jiangxi province for two or three days’ fabulous hiking from village to village in the gorgeous rural landscape around Wuyuan. Take the bus to Nanchang and then a high-speed train to Changsha, the Hunan provincial capital, from where you can fly or take the train to the stunning karst panoramas of Zhangjiajie. Jump on a bus to the funky river town of Fenghuang, from where it’s a hop, skip, and a bus-then-train jump via Huaihua into Guizhou and the scenic riverside town of Zhenyuan. Kaili and the rest of the province lies beyond.

Itineraries

Southwest China

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3 WEEKS

Embark on this tour of China’s southwest for vibrant ethnic colour, overwhelmingly beautiful landscapes, an enticing array of ancient towns and villages, the fizz of Hong Kong and a profusion of hiking opportunities around the southwest borders.

Four days’ wining and dining in Hong Kong and Macau should whet your appetite, before you head inland to Guilin and three days’ immersion in the dreamy karst landscape of Yangshuo. Join a local tour from Yangshuo to delightful Huangyao before backtracking to Guilin and journeying north to the Longji Rice Terraces and the Wind and Rain bridges and ethnic hues of Sanjiang. Creep over the border to explore the villages of eastern Guizhou, including Longli, Basha and Zhaoxing, before continuing to Guiyang and on by train to the capital of Yunnan province, Kunming. Spend a few days in Kunming before penetrating north Yunnan to explore Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-la. Consider exploring the border area with Sichuan at the remote Lugu Lake, from where you can head into Sichuan. In the other direction, the fertile Xishuangbanna region lies in the deep south of the province.

Itineraries

Qinghai: Xining to Nangchen

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10 DAYS

An epic journey through Qinghai, China’s largest province and a region deeply coloured with Tibetan culture. This colossal, rough-and-ready adventure draws you through stunning landscapes.

Spend three days exploring Xining, the capital of Qinghai, visiting the Tibetan Culture and Medicine Museum and the Dongguan and Nanguan mosques at the heart of town. Take a bus to the charming, historic town of Guide on the crystal-clear waters of the Yellow River – spend time wandering around the ancient city wall and photographing the town’s extraordinary and towering river-powered prayer wheel. Return by bus to Xining and buy a bus ticket to Yushu, high up at almost 3700m. The bus will actually climb higher than 4000m on its 12- to 16-hour journey, so pack a fleece and only do this trip in summer (it’s too cold even in spring). Prepare for bus breakdowns and high altitude. Spend at least a couple of days in the lovely Tibetan town of Yushu (Jyekundo) before jumping on a bus through some delightful scenery to Nangchen (Sharda), where monasteries and dramatic scenery await. Return to Yushu and fly back to Xining.

Itineraries

Contours of Historic Tibet

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3 WEEKS

An arduous undertaking at the best of times, Tibet is a land periodically inaccessible to international travellers. This tour immerses you deeply in culturally Tibetan areas of China that are far more accessible.

Only undertake this tour in the warmer summer months; other times can be dangerous. From Lanzhou in Gansu province, head southwest to spend a few days hiking around Langmusi and then take a bus to spend at least a night or two in Xiahe. Pass some awesome scenery by bus or taxi into Qinghai province via the town of Tongren. After exploring Tongren’s monasteries, continue by bus to Xining, then either fly or take the overnight sleeper to Chengdu in Sichuan. Head by bus to Kangding, or fly to Kangding via Chengdu. From Kangding you can journey by bus west to the stupendous scenery around Litang, with some breathtaking hiking opportunities, or travel south by minivan to Xiangcheng and on to Shangri-la and the gorgeous Tibetan region of north Yunnan. From Shangri-la take a bus to high-altitude Deqin, enveloped in stunning mountain panoramas.

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Itineraries

Northeast Tour

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10 DAYS

Hop aboard this tour through the less-visited northeast for raw scenic beauty, borderland towns and intriguing traces of imperial Manchurian heritage.

Start in Beijing then hop on a train to stylish Dalian, exploring the historic walled coastal towns of Shanhaiguan and Xingcheng en route. You’ll need several days for Dalian’s sights, including the historic port town of Lushun and an adorable coastline. Border watchers will be keen to get to Dandong, on the frontier with North Korea. Take a boat tour along the Yalu River, dine on North Korean food and visit Tiger Mountain Great Wall. Consider a rail and bus trip to Heaven Lake in Changbai Shan (the largest nature reserve in China) via Tonghua. Straddling the North Korea border, the volcanic lake is a stunning sight (only accessible mid-June to September). Alternatively, take the train to Shenyang and visit its Qing dynasty Imperial Palace and tombs. Hop on a bus or a train to Harbin to wonder at the city’s Russian and Jewish ancestry. If you’ve really picked up momentum, carry on to China’s ‘North Pole Village’ to try to catch the aurora borealis in Mohe or to bask in summer’s midnight sun.

Itineraries

Beijing to the Russian Border

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1 WEEK

For a taste of Inner Mongolia’s ranging grasslands, esoteric temples, imperial ruins and Russian borderland regions, head on this tour from China’s capital.

After exhausting the sightseeing and wining and dining in Beijing, jump aboard a train to Hohhot in Inner Mongolia where a late-July arrival should coincide with the Naadam festivities at Gegentala to the north, when the grasslands are turning green. Explore Hohhot’s lamaseries and temples and make a trip to the grasslands outside town for a taste of the epic Inner Mongolian prairie. Journey by bus from Hohhot to Zhenglanqi and Shangdu – vanished site of Kublai Khan’s celebrated palace at Xanadu – and then on to Haila’er in the far north of Inner Mongolia, towards the border. The grasslands outside Haila’er are a real highlight, so consider spending the night under the stars in a yurt on the prairie. From Haila’er travel by bus to the Russia-style town of Labudalin and then on to tranquil Enhe to devour some of the local yogurt topped with blueberries. Continue on to spend the night in the village of Shi Wei, overlooking the river, plonked right on the Russian border. Winter is a no-no.

Plan Your Trip

Family Travel

Taking your kids to China can be challenging, eye-opening, fun and memorable. Sure you’ll need to plan a bit, and at times be a super-patient parent, but you could also find yourself and your family on the journey of a lifetime.

Keeping Costs Down

Trains

Request a child’s ticket for kids between 1.2m and 1.5m tall (ticket prices for children are according to height rather than age). These are half the price of adult tickets for seats, and about 25% off for sleeper berths. Children under 1.2m travel for free but don’t get their own seat or berth.

Tourist Sites

Kids can often get in for half price, or free if under 1.2 metres tall. It’s always worth asking at the ticket office.

Dining

Choose