Lonely Planet Hong Kong

By Lorna Parkes

Lonely Planet’s Hong Kong is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Cruise on the legendary Star Ferry with its views of Hong Kong’s iconic skyline, ride the hair-raising Peak Tram to the top of Victoria Peak, and browse the hundreds of stalls at the Temple Street Night Market; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Hong Kong and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Hong Kong Travel Guide:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

Top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Hong Kong’s best experiences and where to have them

What's new feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 40 maps 

Covers Central District, The Peak & Northwest Hong Kong Island, Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island, Aberdeen & South Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, New Territories, Outlying Islands, Shenzhen and Macau

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Hong Kong, our most comprehensive guide to Hong Kong, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Pocket Hong Kong, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s China for a comprehensive look at all the country has to offer.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: May 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838696573

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Hong Kong

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page Samplerbutton

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Hong Kong

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

What’s New

Need to Know

First Time Hong Kong

Perfect Days

Month by Month

With Kids

Like a Local

For Free

Guided Tours

Dining Out

Bar Open

Showtime

Treasure Hunt

Active Hong Kong

Explore Hong Kong

Neighbourhoods at a Glance

Central District

Top Experience: Cruise the Harbour on A star ferry

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Neighbourhood Walk: Exploring Hong Kong’s Heart

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

The Peak & Northwest Hong Kong Island

Top Experience: Take in the views from Victoria Peak

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Neighbourhood Walk: Hong Kong’s Wholesale District

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island

Top Experience: Take A Breather at Hong Kong Park

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Neighbourhood Walk: Old Wan Chai’s Forgotten Streets

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Aberdeen & South Hong Kong Island

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Kowloon

Top Experience: Gain Insights at The Museum of History

Sights

Eating

Neighbourhood Walk: Kowloon’s Teeming Market Streets

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Day Trips from Hong Kong

Macau

Sleeping

Understand Hong Kong

History

The Arts Scene

The Motion Picture Industry

The City Skyline

Religion & Belief

Survival Guide

Transport

Getting There & Away

Hong Kong

Macau

Getting Around

Hong Kong

Macau

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Emergency & Useful Numbers

Health

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Responsible Travel

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Language

Behind the Scenes

Hong Kong Maps

1 Central

2 Lan Kwai Fong & Soho

3 Sheung Wan & Sai Ying Pun

4 Admiralty

5 Wan Chai

6 Causeway Bay

7 Aberdeen

8 Stanley

9 Tsim Sha Tsui

10 Hung Hom

11 Yau Ma Tei

12 Mong Kok

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open following the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Hong Kong

Ah, Hong Kong. Where to start? Probably in a cha chaan tang (teahouse) with a milk tea as I plan my day in the most exciting, iconic city in Asia. Tram or MTR? Air-con mall or street market? Roast goose or that new tonkatsu place? Let’s go with both. Hike the Peak? Too hot. A ferry to the islands, then. Decisions... Hong Kong has always felt to me like a city where anything is possible – a historical blip of fun-filled excess that shouldn’t exist but does, and somehow the world is better for it. I hope against hope that it holds on to that magic.

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Habour tour on a traditional Chinese junk COMEZORA/GETTY IMAGES ©

By Thomas O’Malley, Writer

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For more about our writers

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

1Skyline Gazing

A dazzling interplay of soaring skyscrapers and subtropical island scenery, Hong Kong makes a compelling case for world’s most beautiful skyline. Words and pictures can’t do it justice; the only way to take in Hong Kong’s remarkable cityscape is by being there, whether you’re chugging across the harbour by ferry, watching the city lights ablaze from the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront or gazing down over the whole wonderful sprawl from Victoria Peak.

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Hong Kong’s skyline | DANIEL FUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Star Ferry

A floating piece of Hong Kong heritage since 1880, the legendary Star Ferry connects Kowloon and Hong Kong Island by water and doubles up as a dirt-cheap skyline-viewing cruise. Consider it the ultimate orientation.

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The Star Ferry | DANIEL FUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Victoria Peak

Best reached by the creaking, white-knuckle Peak Tram, the jade summit of Victoria Peak offers jaw-dropping harbour vistas and lovely, leafy trails that wind through verdant forest. Wander just far enough and you’ll have the views all to yourself.

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The Peak Tram | LEUNGCHOPAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Symphony of Lights

The view across the harbour from the Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade in Kowloon is spectacular enough by day, but after dark crowds gather to see lasers, LEDs and searchlights dance across the obelisk facades of more than 40 skyscrapers.

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Hong Kong Island viewed from Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade | LEE YIU TUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

2WORLD-CLASS EATS

One of Asia’s top foodie destinations, Hong Kong boasts an incomparable culinary repertoire. Take your pick from homespun Canto joints roasting lacquer-skinned goose over rice, Michelin-starred dim sum dives, hip European, Thai and Japanese hangouts, modern Chinese with a trendy twist, and showy celebrity haunts with jaw-dropping harbour views. No matter your tastes or budget, you’re in for a mind-altering gastronomic treat.

Dim Sum Grazing

A parade of delicate treats both savoury and sweet, dim sum, or yum cha, is all about variety. In Hong Kong that variety extends to the restaurants themselves, from old-school cart purveyors to rarefied banquets where the bamboo steamers come with Michelin stars.

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Dim sum in steamer baskets | D3SIGN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Culinary Innovation

Matcha ice cream bao, anyone? In dynamic Hong Kong, the food scene never stands still. So grab your egg tart cookies, Korean whipped coffee, cheese-topped bubble tea or modern Chinese with a retro wink while you can, before newer trends come knocking.

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Egg waffle matcha sundae | MARISARO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dai Pai Dong

These hawker-style, open-air stalls dish up delicious, dirt cheap eats, from wok-tossed noodles to fish balls in soup. Visit soon, though; the government are no longer issuing licences, so once the current crop closes, they’ll be gone forever.

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Mong Kok dai pai dong (food stalls) | FRANCESCO BONINO/SHUTTERSTOCK©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

3STREET LIFE

It’s the thrilling hustle and bustle at street level that makes Hong Kong so special. You can be elbowing your way through markets one minute then gliding through Gucci-filled plazas the next. Hong Kong’s historic trams are a great way to discover the neighbourhoods of north Hong Kong Island, while the world’s longest outdoor elevator will whisk you up and down Central’s hilly levels.

Explore by Tram

The most fun way to get around Hong Kong Island is on the upper deck of its iconic trams. Nicknamed ‘ding dings’ by locals, these teetering streetcars have been rattling along since 1904.

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Tram, Causeway Bay | FILMLANDSCAPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Discover Old Hong Kong

Yau Ma Tei is old Hong Kong at its most captivating, home to neon relics, knife sellers, throwback tea houses and mahjong parlours. Shanghai Street, once Kowloon’s main drag, is the place to start your explorations.

Temple Street Night Market

Hundreds of stalls sell a vast array of booty nightly at Hong Kong’s liveliest market. Once you’ve haggled for a bargain, you can graze on street food, have your fortune read or duck into a ’60s-era singalong parlour.

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Mido Café, Yau Ma Tei | BAITEREK MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Temple Street Night Market | TUNGCHEUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

4GREEN ESCAPES

What many visitors don’t realise is that almost three quarters of Hong Kong is made up of mountains and sprawling country parks criss-crossed with wilderness trails; escaping the city for the great outdoors is as easy as hopping on to the MTR. Even within the urban core you’ll find peaceful pockets of lush, protected nature home to rare birds, carp-filled pools and colourful traditions.

Hike the Hong Kong Trail

Starting from the Peak, this 50km route snakes across the entire length of Hong Kong Island, past sumptuous viewpoints, serene reservoirs, cobalt bays and even WWII battlefields.

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Pavilion, Nan Lian Garden | GUOZHONGHUA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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View from the Dragon’s Back, Hong Kong Trail | PATRICKHEAGNEY/GETTYIMAGES ©

Hong Kong Wetland Park

Surreally nestled under an arc of apartment towers, this 61-hectare haven of biodiversity provides tranquil habitats for a range of waterfowl and other wildlife amid the mangroves and fish-filled ponds.

Park Life

Whether its dragon dances whirling amid the banyan trees of Kowloon Park or office suits stealing a noon nap beside the basking turtles of Hong Kong Park, the city’s green spaces are a great way to vibe with a more laidback Hong Kong.

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Hong Kong Wetland Park | CHERDCHANOK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Hong Kong Park | BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

5TRADITIONAL CULTURE

Amid the glitzy tumult of high-rise Hong Kong it’s still possible to find tantalising nooks of tradition. You’ll see incense-shrouded Tin Hau temples dedicated to Mazu, a Chinese sea goddess, in most neighbourhoods, and with a bit of planning you can visit mountain monasteries, take in a traditional Cantonese opera, have your fortune told, try a bowl of snake soup, and even cruise the harbour in a Chinese junk.

Man Mo Temple

Permanently wreathed in sandalwood smoke, one of Hong Kong’s oldest and most famous temples is dedicated to Man (god of literature) and Mo (god of war).

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Interior, Man Mo Templel | JOSE L VILCHEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Yuen Long’s Walled Villages

Scattered around the New Territories are the remains of pre-colonial villages where early Hong Kongers built walls to protect themselves from pirates.

Tai O Stilt Houses

Visit the stilt houses in Hong Kong’s southwestern corner for a glimpse of the city’s fishing culture.

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Walled village. Yuen Long | MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Stilt houses, Tai O | OSTILL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

6UNDERSTANDING THE COLONIAL PAST

Hong Kong harks back to a century and a half of British colonial rule via its trams and churches, British street names, milk tea and toast, and the fact that cars drive on the left. Architecture fans and history buffs can explore lovingly restored East-West heritage projects like Tai Kwun, Hong Kong’s former central police station, or wander the wicker pews of St John’s Cathedral with its low-hanging ceiling fans.

Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula

A popular splurge is to take tea and scones at the Peninsula, opened in 1928 and still one of Asia’s most glam hotels.

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Tearoom, Peninsula Hong Kong | GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET ©

Happy Valley Racecourse

The first horse races were held here in 1846, and the Wednesday-evening races remain a riot of beer-fuelled fun.

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Scoreboard, Happy Valley | GAVIN HELLIER/AGEFOTOSTOCK ©

Ruins of St Paul, Macau

A legacy of the 17th century Jesuits, only the towering facade and stairway remain of Macau’s most iconic building.

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Facade, Church of St Paul | ALEX CIMBAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

7ISLAND HOPPING

Scattered across the azure waters around Hong Kong are some 250 islands, several of which can be easily reached by ferry. Lantau is home to Mickey Mouse and the peerless Big Buddha, there’s hippie Lamma and hipster Cheung Chau, and that’s just for starters. Deserted beaches, unspoilt nature and inland hiking await the explorer, while water sports fans can try kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and windsurfing.

The Big Buddha

A popular day trip is to visit the bustling Po Lin monastery complex on Lantau, where you can gaze in awe at a gigantic bronze seated Buddha statue, said to be the world’s biggest.

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Big Buddha, Lantaul | VINCENT ST. THOMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Laidback Lamma

Hong Kong’s ‘hippie island’ is a place to unwind, with lush forests and chilled-out villages connected by pedestrian paths. It’s also the closest of the outlying islands, its beaches and seafood restaurants just 30 minutes away by ferry from Central.

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Sok Kwu Wan village, Lamma | SANGA PARK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cheung Chau Bun Festival

Every spring on Cheung Chau, a festival honours the Taoist god Pak Tai. ‘Floating children’ are paraded on long poles, while the faithful scramble up the 20m high ‘bun tower’ to snatch the highest bun. One of Hong Kong’s truly unique cultural experiences.

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

8SHOPPING HEAVEN

From Mong Kok’s sprawling speciality markets to the marble-clad malls of Central and Wan Chai, there’s no shortage of places to empty your bank account in Hong Kong, a city where shopping is virtually a national sport. Increasingly, global brands share the racks with independent local designers, and zero sales tax on your purchases means you can usually bag a bargain.

G.O.D.

Goods of Desire, a home-grown lifestyle brand, is perfect for that quirky Hong Kong-themed souvenir.

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G.O.D. outlet, Hong Kong International Airport | SORBIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PMQ

An arts and lifestyle hub inside a modernist housing complex, PMQ is home to dozens of independent shops and galleries.

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PMQ window display | JOEYCHEUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Horizon Plaza

This converted factory complex turned mall on the island of Ap Lei Chau has over 28 floors of fashion outlet stores and homewares.

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Exterior, Horizon Plaza | SOUTH CHINA MORNING POST/GETTYIMAGES ©

Hong Kong’s Top Experiences

9PARTY CENTRAL

Hong Kong’s ‘work hard, play hard’ mantra means that when the sun goes down, the fun cranks up. And while all roads lead to pulsing party district Lan Kwai Fong, there really is something for everyone, from sedate craft beer hangouts to rooftop bars with heavenly skyline views. For East-meets-West mixology, Central boasts some of the world’s best cocktail bars, while Soho is the destination of choice for discerning clubbers.

Lan Kwai Fong

Central’s party district is at its craziest on nights like Halloween or when the Hong Kong Sevens come to town.

Quinary

Regularly voted one of Asia’s best bars, Quinary’s innovations include their signature Earl Grey Caviar Martini.

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Bartender, Quinary | LORNA PARKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Happy Hours

Drinking in Hong Kong isn’t cheap, so cheers to the many bars with excellent happy hours, including free-flow deals.

What’s New

What with protests, the pandemic and the new security law, Hong Kong has endured an extraordinary tumult recently. And yet life goes on. Glitzy developments are reshaping the skyline, and new hotels, restaurants and bar openings have defied the downturn as Hong Kongers eagerly await an end to restrictions.

State of the Art

M+, poised to open at the time of research, is Hong Kong’s new 65,000-sq-metre museum of visual culture designed by Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron. More than 10 years in the making, it’s hoping to compete with the likes of the Tate Modern in London and MoMA in New York, though it will first have to navigate the new controls on freedom of expression imposed by Beijing.

Avenue of the Stars

After years of renovations, Kowloon’s spectacular East Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront promenade reopened in 2019, the whole area rebranded as Victoria Dockside. Hong Kong’s first Rosewood Hotel joins the K11 Musea, a swanky lifestyle and shopping destination home to, among others, the first ever Fortnum & Mason outside the UK.

Trending Tastes

In 2020 the humble cookie became the hottest dessert trend, with inventive flavours like Portuguese egg tart proving a delicious distraction for pandemic-hit Hong Kong. Delivery and dine-at-home innovations, also a by-product of the restrictions, even saw top Hong Kong chefs available for home hire, while bars perfected hygienic, ready-to-drink bottle cocktails.

Asia’s Best Bar

Coa, a Mexican-inspired craft cocktail bar, won top spot at the Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards in 2021. Specialising in the agave-based spirits mezcal and tequila, the industrial-chic nightspot in Sheung Wan has over 200 varieties on offer and a 41-page agave menu to go with its smoky signature cocktails.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN HONG KONG

Thomas O’Malley, Lonely Planet writer

A mood of wariness pervades Hong Kong in 2021, as the full extent and implications of the new security law are yet to be fully realised. At the time of writing, the closure of pro-democracy newspaper Apple Daily and Hong Kong’s first trial without jury under the new law felt like worrying portents of what the future might hold, and this was not helped by a more visible police presence throughout the city.

More welcome news for locals was the easing of quarantine restrictions for citizens returning to Hong Kong from certain countries, although vaccine take-up remained sluggish, due in part to a lack of trust in the government.

Beach Life

Hong Kong has upped its tally of beaches with the opening of Lung Mei Beach, a new stretch of sand created in Tai Po, but it was not without controversy. Environmentalists and activists were against the development, which saw rare marine wildlife cleared out from the coastal habitat and relocated to a nearby bay.

Hong Kong Frozen

Hot on the heels of Hong Kong Disneyland’s Marvel superheroes themed zone, construction is underway on a new Frozen-themed land: Arendelle: The World of Frozen. Although slated to open in 2022, the ongoing pandemic may well delay the arrival of Elsa, Olaf and co.

New Territories Cycleway

Cyclists welcomed the opening of a new 60km cycleway in 2020. The NT Cycle Track Network joins up existing stretches of track to cut an unbroken, scenic swath through the New Territories between Tuen Mun and Ma On Shan.

Cup Noodles Museum

Japanese ramen brand Nissin has opened a branch of its Cup Noodles Museum (https://www.cupnoodles-museum.com.hk/)in Tsim Sha Tsui. Interactive attractions include the chance to create your own version of the famous snack by designing the packaging and selecting the freeze-dried nibbles to go in it.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

Time Out Hong Kong (www.timeout.com/hong-kong) For all the latest on eating, nightlife, art and events.

Sassy Hong Kong (www.sassyhongkong.com) Long-running lifestyle portal strong on shopping, spas and wellness.

Tatler Hong Kong (hk.asiatatler.com) Monthly magazine covering fine dining, fashion and travel for Hong Kong’s jet set.

RTHK Radio 3 (www.rthk.hk) English-language station popular with Hong Kong expats.

Discover Hong Kong (www.discoverhongkong.com) Official website of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, regularly updated.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Salted egg yolk

Skyscrapers (buildings over 150m) 482

Islands (over 500m²) 263

Population 7.5 million

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For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/hong-kong.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Hong Kong dollar (HK$)

Languages

Cantonese, English

Visas

Visas are not required for Brits (up to 180 days); or Australians, Canadians, EU citizens, Israelis, Japanese, New Zealanders and US citizens (up to 90 days).

Money

ATMs are widely available; international debit/credit cards are accepted in most places except budget Cantonese restaurants.

Mobile Phones

Any GSM-compatible phone can be used here. If you have an unlocked handset, buying a local SIM card with 4G mobile data and free local calls is convenient and easy.

Time

Hong Kong Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours)

Tourist Information

Hong Kong Tourism Board (www.discoverhongkong.com) visitor centres have helpful and welcoming staff, and reams of information – most of it free. There are two branches in town, as well as visitor centres in the airport.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than HK$800

A Guesthouse or dorm bed: HK$180–450

A Meals at a cha chaan tang (teahouse) or dai pai dong (food stall): HK$60–150

A Museums (free); night markets (free); horse races (HK$10)

A Bus, tram, ferry ticket: HK$2.60–15

Midrange: HK$800–2500

A Double room in a hostel or budget hotel: HK$450–1100

A Chinese dinner with three dishes: HK$300

A Drinks and live music: HK$500

Top End: More than HK$2500

A Double room in a boutique or four-star hotel: HK$2200

A Dinner at a top Chinese restaurant: from HK$800

A Cantonese opera ticket: HK$200

Advance Planning

Two months before Check dates of Chinese festivals; book accommodation, tickets for major shows, and a table at a top restaurant.

One month before Check listings and book tickets for fringe festivals; book nature tours and a table at a popular restaurant.

Two weeks before Book harbour cruises and your Tai Kwun pass; sign up for email alerts from events organisers.

One week before Check the weather forecast.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/china/hong-kong) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Discover Hong Kong (www.discoverhongkong.com) The Hong Kong government’s user-friendly website for travel information.

Urbtix (www.urbtix.hk) Tickets to movies, shows and exhibitions.

Time Out Hong Kong (www.timeout.com.hk) What to eat, drink and do in Hong Kong and Macau.

Hong Kong Observatory (www.hko.gov.hk) Weather information including forecasts.

WHEN TO GO

October to early December is the best time to visit. June to August is hot and rainy. Beware of typhoons in September.

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Arriving in Hong Kong

Hong Kong International Airport Airport Express MTR train to city centre from 5.54am to 12.48am, HK$110 (with Octopus) or HK$115; ‘A’ buses to various parts of Hong Kong from 6am to 12.30am, HK$19 to HK$45; taxi to Central/Kowloon around HK$370/270.

Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau MTR train to city centre from 5.55am to midnight (Lo Wu), from 6.38am to 10.55pm (Lok Ma Chau), HK$44 to HK$53.

Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal MTR train (Sheung Wan) to Central/Kowloon from 6.05am to 12.56am, HK$5 to HK$10; taxi HK$24 to HK$100.

China Ferry Terminal Star Ferry to Central from 6.30am to 11.30pm, HK$2.20 to HK$3.70; taxi HK$34 to HK$44.

For much more on arrival

Getting Around

MTR The ultramodern Mass Transit Railway is the quickest way to get to most urban destinations. Most lines run from 6am to just after midnight.

Bus Extensive and as efficient as the traffic allows, but can be bewildering for short-term travellers.

Ferry Fast and economical, and throw in spectacular harbour views at no extra cost.

Tram Runs east to west along Hong Kong Island; convenient and great fun if you’re not in a hurry.

Taxi Cheap compared with Europe and North America. Most taxis are red; green ones operate in certain parts of the New Territories; blue ones on Lantau Island. All run on meter.

Minibus Vans with a green or red roof that cover areas not reachable by bus; green are the easiest for travellers to use.

For much more on getting around

Sleeping

Hong Kong hotels have small rooms. That said, service is usually very good and there’s plenty on offer, from dorm beds to presidential suites. Most hotels on Hong Kong Island are between Sheung Wan and Causeway Bay; in Kowloon, they are located around Nathan Rd, where you’ll also find budget places.

Useful Websites

Hong Kong Hotels Association (香港酒店業協會; HKHA; map, D2; icon-phonegif %852 2769 8822, 852 2383 8380; www.hkha.org; Hong Kong International Airport; icon-hoursgif h7am-midnight) For booking midrange and high-end hotels that are members of the association.

Discover Hong Kong (www.discoverhongkong.com) The tourist board has a large database of hotels, including those accredited by the Quality Tourism Services scheme, searchable by location and facilities.

For much more on sleeping

First Time Hong Kong

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Make sure your passport is valid for at least one month past your intended stay

A Inform your debit-/credit-card company you’re going away

A Arrange for appropriate travel insurance

A Check if your mobile-phone service provider has a roaming agreement with a Hong Kong operator

What to Pack

A Good walking shoes for the city and the countryside

A Light rain gear – Hong Kong has a subtropical climate with monsoons in summer

A Smart-casual staples to move from day to night

A Mosquito repellent, sunscreen and sunglasses in summer

A Travel electric adaptor for Hong Kong

A A small day pack

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Hong Kong’s efficient Mass Transit Railway (MTR) system and buses can take you to most sights; rural areas are mostly easily accessible from the city centre by public transport.

A If you have more than two days, visit the countryside or outlying islands for a completely different impression of Hong Kong.

A Hong Kong has some of the world’s best Chinese food; indulge in at least one excellent Chinese meal.

A To get a feel for local culture, explore the main areas of the city by foot.

A Take the Star Ferry and the trams at least once. They are living heritage and are well connected to some of the main sights.

What to Wear

Hong Kong has its share of fashion-obsessed people, but in general, Hong Kongers are casual. That said, many upmarket restaurants and bars (especially in Central) enforce dress codes so check ahead; no shorts for men and no flip-flops is common.

Summer is hot and humid. Dress lightly but bring a jacket for air-conditioned facilities.

When hiking in summer, pack your swimsuit and goggles for an impromptu dip.

Be Forewarned

Hong Kong is generally a safe city to travel around, even alone at night, but always use common sense.

After dark Stick to well-lit streets if walking; note the MTR is perfectly safe to use at night.

Shopping scams Retailers of genuine antiques should be able to provide certification proving authenticity; as a general rule, assume trinkets in markets are reproductions.

Theft Hong Kong has its share of pickpockets. Carry as little cash and as few valuables as possible, and if you put a bag down, keep an eye on it. If robbed, obtain a loss report for insurance purposes at the nearest police station. See ‘e-Report Room’ at www.police.gov.hk.

Key Transport

Central–Mid-Levels Escalator A long, covered escalator that links up areas built on slopes in Central, Soho and the Mid-Levels.

Cross-harbour taxi A taxi going from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon Peninsula or vice versa; passengers must pay a cross-harbour toll.

MTR Nine lines serving Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the New Territories; the Airport Express; a light-rail network in northwestern New Territories; and intercity trains to Guǎngdōng, Běijīng, and Shànghǎi.

Octopus card A rechargeable ‘smart card’ that can be used on most forms of public transport.

Taxes

There is no value-added tax (VAT) or sales tax in Hong Kong, except on alcohol and tobacco. Shops levy a HK$0.50 charge for plastic-bag usage.

Tipping

Bars and cafes Not expected unless table service is provided, in which case 10% will often be automatically added to your bill.

Hotels A HK$10 or HK$20 note for the porter at luxury hotels; gratuity for cleaning staff at your discretion.

Restaurants Most eateries, except very cheap places, impose a 10% to 15% service charge. At budget joints, just rounding off to the nearest HK$10 is fine.

Taxis Tips are never expected, but many people leave the small change.

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City streetscape | ADRIENNE PITTS/LONELY PLANET ©

Etiquette

Though informal in their day-to-day dealings, Hong Kong people do observe certain rules of etiquette.

Bargaining Haggling over the price of goods is not expected in shops. Do bargain when buying from street vendors (but not in food markets).

Dining At budget places, people think nothing of sticking their chopsticks into a communal dish. More high-end restaurants provide separate serving spoons with each dish; if they’re provided, use them. Don’t be afraid to ask for a fork if you can’t manage chopsticks.

Greetings Just wave and say ‘Hi’ and ‘Bye’ when meeting for the first time and when saying goodbye.

Queues Hong Kongers line up for everything. Attempts to ‘jump the queue’ are frowned upon.

Language

Many people in Hong Kong speak some level of English, especially those working in the service industries (shops, restaurants, bars). Don’t be afraid to ask for directions in English. Most restaurants have English menus. Fewer taxi drivers speak English than you might expect.

If you know Mandarin, you can try using it in Hong Kong. Most people understand the dialect; some speak it reasonably well.

For more on language and a useful glossary.

Perfect Days

Day One

Central District

icon-icon-morning MArmed with your prebooked pass, start early at Tai Kwun heritage and arts complex. Then head west down Hollywood Rd checking out antiques shops and PMQ’s local designers. Stop at Man Mo Temple for a taste of history and explore the hip community on Tai Ping Shan Street.

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Lunch Queue for heavenly beef brisket noodles at Kau Kee.

The Peak & Northwest Hong Kong Island

icon-icon-afternoon RWork your way back to Central via Sheung Wan’s Dried Seafood Street, to catch the legendary Peak Tram up to Victoria Peak. Stunning views of the city will greet you; perhaps tackle one of the trails. Descend and take a scenic ride on the vintage tram to Kennedy Town for beers at Little Creatures and a peek at this old-school neighbourhood.

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Dinner Get acquainted with Asian fusion at Little Bao.

Central District

icon-icon-evening NDedicate the evening to bar-hopping around Soho. Don’t miss Asian-accented cocktails in Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour and Quinary, perhaps also catching live jazz at Peel Fresco. In the wee hours of the morning, head back west to Kennedy Town for 4am dim sum at Sun Hing.

Perfect Days

Day Two

Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island

icon-icon-morning MEmbrace (manufactured) nature at lovely Hong Kong Park, not forgetting to check out the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, then head over to the Blue House cluster; if it’s Saturday, join a free guided tour of these restored wooden tenement buildings.

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Lunch Kam’s Roast Goose for arguably the best roasted meat in town.

Kowloon

icon-icon-afternoon RTake the Star Ferry to Kowloon. Enjoy the views along Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade and savour your stroll to the Hong Kong Museum of History. Take afternoon tea in style at the Peninsula hotel. After that, if you have the stamina, bus it north to Yau Ma Tei, where you can check out Tin Hau Temple, the Jade Market and traditional shops along Shanghai Street.

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Dinner Temple Street Night Market for cheap food under the stars.

Kowloon

icon-icon-evening NHave your fortune told and catch some Cantonese opera at Temple Street Night Market. Then it’s not too far a hoof to Horizonte Lounge at the Madera Hotel, where awesome urban skyline views await.

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Dried seafood shop display, Sheung Wan | PHIL WEYMOUTH/LONELY PLANET ©

Day Three

Aberdeen & South Hong Kong Island

icon-icon-morning MTake the bus to Aberdeen for a walk along Aberdeen Promenade, from where you can hop on a sampan to go shopping (for bargain designer furniture and clothing) at Horizon Plaza on the island of Ap Lei Chau. Coffee and cakes are available at several of the furniture shops here. If it’s a Saturday, book onto a boozy tour of Hong Kong’s own brewery, Young Master.

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Lunch Yee Hope Seafood Restaurant for ultrafresh fish.

New Territories

icon-icon-afternoon RMake your way from Aberdeen to Sai Kung Peninsula after lunch. Check out Sai Kung Town or hop on a ferry at the waterfront to a nearby beach for a late afternoon dip.

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Dinner Loaf On for excellent seafood.

Kowloon

icon-icon-evening NAfter a busy day, head to Kowloon Taproom for local craft beers and good people-watching. If after a few beers you’re in need of late-night munchies, crispy fried Korean chicken at Chicken HOF & Soju will be music to your ears.

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Lung Wah Tea House | GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET ©

Day Four

Macau

icon-icon-morning MHop on an early boat to Macau. When you arrive, take a bus or a cab to the legendary Lung Wah Tea House. Have dim sum for breakfast. Buy some tea leaves from them before you go and explore the bustling Red Market next door. Have a leisurely stroll to the cultural parts of Northern Macau Peninsula to work off your breakfast. Check out the designer shops and the cobbled streets of the atmospheric St Lazarus Church District, and buy a few souvenirs.

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Lunch Clube Militar de Macau for old-school Portuguese dining.

Macau

icon-icon-afternoon RExplore the sights around the Largo do Senado. Walk along Rua Central through much of the Unesco-listed Historic Centre of Macau, including the ruins of the Church of St Paul. Nibble on Portuguese egg tarts and almond cookies as you do so. Then head to lovely Taipa Village for a look.

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Dinner António dishes up sumptuous Portuguese classics.

Macau

icon-icon-evening NCheck out the Studio City casino complex. Try your hand at the tables or just have a drink at the bar. Then head back to Macau Peninsula to catch the ferry back to Hong Kong.

Month By Month

TOP EVENTS

Chinese New Year, January/February

Birthday of Tin Hau, April/May

Cheung Chau Bun Festival, April/May

Dragon Boat Festival, May/June

Hungry Ghost Festival, August

February

The marquee of clammy clouds may seal up the city in perfect hibernation mode, but nothing can dampen the spirits around Chinese New Year, the most important festival on the cultural calendar.

z Chinese New Year

Vast flower markets herald the beginning of this best-loved Chinese festival. Wear red and be blessed at Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple. Then find a spot by Victoria Harbour (or failing that, a TV) and be awed by fireworks.

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Durian moon cake, Mid-Autumn Festival | NEWROADBOY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z Spring Lantern Festival

Lovers are the focus as colourful lanterns glowing under the first full moon of the lunar year mark the end of New Year celebrations, and a day known as Chinese Valentine’s Day.

3 Hong Kong Arts Festival

Lasting five to eight weeks, Hong Kong’s premier cultural event scintillates with a feast of music and performing arts, ranging from classical to contemporary, by hundreds of local and international talents.

2 Hong Kong Marathon

Around 70,000 athletes compete in this top Asian marathon). The annual event also includes a half-marathon, a 10km race and a wheelchair race.

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Dragon Boat Festival, Stanley | OSTILL IS FRANCK CAMHI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

March

Rain and warm weather return, triggering the whirr of dehumidifiers in every home and office – as flowers and umbrellas bloom across the city.

3 Hong Kong International Film Festival

One of Asia’s top film festivals, the four-decade-old HKIFF screens the latest art-house and award-winning movies from Asia and around the world. Timing straddles Easter each year.

1 Hong Kong Flower Show

For approximately 10 days, Victoria Park turns into a colourful sea of fragrant floral displays) as horticulturalists from over 20 countries experiment with their green fingers.

7 Art Basel

Hong Kong becomes the epicentre of the international art world for three days as the world’s top art fair takes the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre by storm.

April

3 Hong Kong Sevens

Hong Kong’s most famous sporting event – and probably its most original. The Rugby Sevens was invented here in 1975 and the eternally popular tournament promises fierce competition, as well as a reliable glut of carnivalesque partying from the fans.

z Birthday of Tin Hau

A festival dedicated to the patroness of fisherfolk and one of the harbour city’s most popular deities. Key celebrations include a colourful float parade in Yuen Long and traditional rites at the ‘Big Temple’ in Joss House Bay. It falls on the 23rd day of the third lunar month.

May

The city steams up, especially in the urban areas, as the long summer months begin. The first heavy showers of the year cleanse the air as religious celebrations heat up the mood.

z Cheung Chau Bun Festival

This unique, weeklong festival on Cheung Chau climaxes on Buddha’s birthday when children ‘float’ through the island’s narrow lanes dressed up as mythological characters and modern-day politicians, while the more daring townsfolk scramble up bun-studded towers at midnight.

z Buddha’s Birthday

Devotees stream to Buddhist monasteries and temples all over the territory on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month to pray to the revered founder of Buddhism and bathe his likenesses with scented water.

7 Affordable Art Fair

This three-day event in May attracts more than 115 local and international galleries, selling pieces from HK$1000 to HK$100,000: a bargain compared with prices in many of Hong Kong’s galleries the rest of the year.

3 Le French May

Misleadingly named, this celebration of all things Gallic often starts in April and ends in June – so much the better, as it returns with a rich arts program of consistently high quality, plus the obligatory fine food and wine.

June

The heavens are truly open, the mercury spikes and strong air-con switches on citywide to soothe the nerves of locals and visitors alike.

3 Dragon Boat Festival

Thousands of the world’s strongest dragon-boaters meet in Hong Kong over three days of intense racing and partying at Victoria Harbour, while smaller but equally heart-stopping races happen in waterways all over the city.

August

Seven million souls palpitate and perspire in the sweltering heat. Torrential downpours are common but there is always a sun-toasted beach near you in this sprawling archipelago of 260-plus islands.

z Hungry Ghost Festival

Restless spirits take leave from hell to roam the earth during the seventh moon. Hell money, food and earthly luxuries made of papier mâché are burned to propitiate the visitors. Fascinating folk traditions come alive across the city. It falls on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month.

September

Summer lingers but the humidity factor starts to recede. Stay close to the ocean coastlines for free respite as school kids swap their buckets and spades for mighty dunes of homework.

z Mid-Autumn Festival

Pick up a lantern and participate in a moonlit picnic on the 15th night of the eighth lunar month. This family occasion commemorates a 14th-century anti-Mongol uprising with much cheerful munching of the once-subversive moon cakes.

November

At long last Hong Kong mellows. Temperatures sensibly cool down to around 22°C (72°F) and rainfall ceases significantly, much to the delight of ramblers and other countryside merrymakers.

3 Clockenflap

Hong Kong’s largest outdoor music festival incorporates international, regional and local live music of a mostly indie variety, as well as art installations and pop-ups. Acts that have played the festival include New Order, the Libertines, A$AP and Massive Attack.

2 Oxfam Trailwalker

What began as a fundraiser by local Ghurkha soldiers in 1981 is today a celebrated endurance test) that challenges hikers in teams of four to complete the 100km MacLehose Trail in 48 hours.

z Hong Kong International Literary Festival

Held over 10 days in autumn, the festival features established and emerging writers from around the world. Past authors have included luminaries Margaret Atwood and Louis de Bernières.

December

Arguably the best time of the year to visit the city. Sunny days and clear-blue skies reign. The delightful weather is perfect for all outdoor activities, though brace for the Christmas shopping crowds.

1 Hong Kong Winterfest

Rejoice as neon Yuletide murals appear on the Tsim Sha Tsui harbourfront. Ferry across to Statue Sq to see illuminated Christmas trees and fake snow. Join teenage revellers around Times Sq to ring in Christmas day.

3 Hong Kong International Races

Billed as the Turf World Championships, master horsemen and equine stars from across the planet descend