Lonely Planet Thailand

By David Eimer

Lonely Planet's Thailand is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Cook authentic dishes in Chiang Mai; rock-climb Railay's limestone karsts (or watch from the sugar-white beaches); or stay in tree-top bungalows in Kanchanaburi; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Thailand and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet's Thailand:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Covers Bangkok, Central Thailand, Ko Chang, Chiang Mai Province, Northern Thailand, Hua Hin, Southern Gulf, Ko Samui, Lower Gulf, Phuket, Andaman Coast and more

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Thailand, our most comprehensive guide to Thailand, is perfect for discovering both popular and off-the-beaten-path experiences. 

 

Need a city guide? Check out Lonely Planet's Bangkok for an in-depth look at all the city has to offer. Going for a short break or weekend? Pocket Bangkok is a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights. Looking for just a few of the destinations included in this book? Check out Lonely Planet's Thailand's Islands & Beaches.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Apr 22, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838690090

David Eimer

David Eimer is the author of the critically acclaimed The Emperor Far Away: Travels at the Edge of China. A former China correspondent for the Sunday Telegraph, Eimer was the Southeast Asia correspondent for the Daily Telegraph between 2012 and 2014. He is currently based in Bangkok.

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Thailand

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Thailand

Thailand’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time Thailand

What’s New

Accommodation

Month by Month

Itineraries

Activities

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Choose Your Beach

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

BANGKOK & AROUND

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Ko Kret

Amphawa

Nakhon Pathom

CENTRAL THAILAND

Ayuthaya Province

Ayuthaya

Around Ayuthaya

Lopburi Province

Lopburi

Kanchanaburi Province

Kanchanaburi

Around Kanchanaburi

Nam Tok

E-Thong

Around E-Thong

Sangkhlaburi

NORTHERN THAILAND

Chiang Rai Province

Chiang Rai

Ban Ruam Mit

Doi Mae Salong (Santikhiri)

Mae Sai

Chiang Saen

Sop Ruak

Chiang Khong

Phayao

Nan Province

Nan

Phrae Province

Lamphun

Lampang Province

Sukhothai Province

Sukhothai

Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park

Phitsanulok Province

Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park

Kamphaeng Phet

Tak Province

Mae Sot

Um Phang

Mae Hong Son Province

Pai

Soppong

Mae La-Na

Mae Hong Son

Mae Aw (Ban Rak Thai)

Khun Yuam

Mae Sariang

CHIANG MAI PROVINCE

Chiang Mai

Northern Chiang Mai Province

Mae Rim

Chiang Dao

Southern Chiang Mai Province

San Kamphaeng & Bo Sang

Hang Dong

Doi Inthanon National Park

Mae Kampong

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

Loei Province

Chiang Khan

Pak Chom

Dan Sai

Phu Kradueng National Park

Nong Khai Province

Nong Khai

Sangkhom

Udon Thani Province

Udon Thani

Ban Na Kha

Ban Chiang

Bueng Kan Province

Bueng Kan

Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary

Nakhon Phanom Province

Nakhon Phanom

That Phanom

Mukdahan Province

Mukdahan

Phu Pha Thoep National Park

Nakhon Ratchasima Province

Nakhon Ratchasima

Ban Prasat

Muang Sema Historical Site

Phimai

Khao Yai National Park

Buriram Province

Nang Rong

Phanom Rung Historical Park

Ubon Ratchathani Province

Ubon Ratchathani

Ban Pa-Ao

Khong Jiam

Kaeng Tana National Park

Pha Taem National Park

Khon Kaen Province

Khon Kaen

Chonnabot

Phu Wiang National Park

Nam Nao National Park

KO CHANG & THE EASTERN SEABOARD

Bang Saen

Si Racha

Ko Si Chang

Pattaya

Rayong & Ban Phe

Ko Samet

Chanthaburi

Trat

Ko Chang

Ko Kut

Ko Mak

Ko Wai

HUA HIN & THE UPPER GULF

Phetchaburi

Cha-am

Hua Hin

Pranburi & Around

Prachuap Khiri Khan

Ban Krut & Bang Saphan Yai

Chumphon

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF

Gulf Islands

Ko Samui

Ko Pha-Ngan

Ko Tao

Ang Thong Marine National Park

Surat Thani Province

Surat Thani

Nakhon Si Thammarat Province

Ao Khanom

Nakhon Si Thammarat

Songkhla Province

Songkhla & Singha Nakhon

Hat Yai

Deep South

Yala

Pattani

Sungai Kolok

PHUKET & THE ANDAMAN COAST

Ranong Province

Ranong Town

Ko Chang

Ko Phayam

Phang-Nga Province

Khuraburi

Surin Islands Marine National Park

Khao Sok National Park

Ko Phra Thong & Ko Ra

Khao Lak & Around

Similan Islands Marine National Park

Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park

Phang-Nga

Ko Yao Islands

Phuket

Phuket Town

Laem Phanwa

Rawai

Hat Patong

Hat Kata

Hat Karon

Hat Kamala

Hat Surin

Ao Bang Thao & Cherngtalay

Northeastern Phuket

Northern Beaches

Krabi Province

Krabi Town

Railay

Ao Nang

Hat Noppharat Thara

Ko Phi-Phi

Ko Lanta

Ko Jum & Ko Si Boya

Trang Province

Trang

Trang Beaches & Islands

Satun Province

Satun

Pak Bara

Ko Tarutao Marine National Park

Ko Bulon Leh

UNDERSTAND

Understand Thailand

History

People & Culture

Arts & Architecture

Environment & Wildlife

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Responsible Travel

Cultural Etiquette

Social Conventions & Gestures

Responsible Tourism

Overtourism

Elephant Encounters

Trekking in Ethnic-Minority Areas

Volunteering

Environmental & Animal Welfare Work

Humanitarian & Educational Work

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Climate

Emergency & Important Numbers

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Safe Travel

Shopping

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering Thailand

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Boat

Bus & Minivan

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Train

Health

Before You Go

Health Insurance

Recommended Vaccinations

Medical Checklist

In Thailand

Availability & Cost of Health Care

Infectious Diseases

Environmental Hazards

Travelling with Children

Traveller’s Diarrhoea

Women’s Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Thailand

Thailand inspires insatiable obsessions with travel. There’s something for every stripe of explorer in the dynamic capital or across remote mountaintops and seascapes. Adventures here are intense but visceral and euphoric; whether temple-hopping around ancient ruins, embarking on sweaty jungle treks, squeezing through night markets or into Bangkok’s underground parties. Intertwined are ample opportunities for true relaxation or retrospection: white-sand beaches, pulverising massages and Buddhist rituals. And you can eat well here! Thailand’s street food and restaurants are renowned for satisfaction, flavour and prices for every pocketbook – plus service with a smile.

GettyImages-1077668176-jpg

Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park | BENTO FOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

By Barbara Woolsey, Writer

barbara-woolsey-2019-RGBjpg

twitterpng @barbarawoolsey instapng @barbara.woolsey

For more, see our writers.

Thailand’s Top 9

1 ONCE IN A LIFETIME

Thailand offers aspirational travel at its finest. The country and its diverse destinations combine history, culture and scenery in a truly awe-inspiring way. Sprawling landscapes, with the ruins of ancient kingdoms, vibrant tropical greenery and charming remote villages, set the stage for life-changing, immersive experiences. These are the kind of memories you’ll hang onto forever.

shutterstock_1030166395-jpg

Phang-Nga | AVIGATOR FORTUNER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Follow the Mekong River

Northeastern Thailand’s glorious arc of the Mekong River offers an smorgasbord of culture and beauty. Chase the meandering river aboard a rickety bus, long-tail boat or even a bicycle. Those who follow this little-visited trail are rewarded with true tales to tell.

shutterstock_1383068111-jpg

Amphawa Floating Market, Mekong River | NATHAPON TRIRATANACHAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sukhothai

Step back some 800 years in time at one of Thailand’s most impressive and formative historical parks. Exploring the ruins of this former capital by bicycle is a leisurely way to wind through the crumbling temples, graceful Buddha statues and fish-filled ponds.

shutterstockRF_167709701-jpg

Sukhothai Historical Park | NUCHSTOCKPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Trekking in Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is arguably Thailand’s most beautiful province. Formerly the Thai extension of the notorious Golden Triangle region, and once home to opium fields aplenty, Chiang Rai now draws visitors for wholesome fresh-air fun. Hiking and treks to minority villages is a wonderful experience, plus it’s a convenient gateway to Myanmar and Laos.

shutterstockRF_244370140-jpg

Doi Mae Salong, Chang Rai Province | PEERAPONG W.AUSSAWA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2 NATURE’S TREASURES

Thailand is home to 127 national parks, including 22 marine parks. The options for outdoor adventures from peak to coast are endless: wildlife spotting, rafting, ziplining and canoeing, always accompanied by the backdrop of lush tropical jungle interiors. Hiking past silvery waterfalls and clambering into caves build stamina and a sense of wonder. Accommodation ranges from pitching a tent to tree-top bungalows, traditional homestays and lavish resorts.

Khao Yai National Park

Khao Yai is home to elephants, monkeys, gibbons, hornbills, pythons, bears, a million bats and even a few wily tigers. Your odds of a wildlife sighting are excellent at this reserve just a few hours from Bangkok. The orchids, birds and waterfalls round out the adventure.

shutterstock_506953195-jpg

Nam Tok Haew Suwat waterfall | 24NOVEMBERS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Khao Sok National Park

This ancient rainforest is filled with long hiking routes up dramatic limestone formations that pay off with breath-taking views. Birds and bats call this forest home, as does the rare Rafflesia kerrii, one of the world’s largest and stinkiest flowers.

shutterstock_140847859-jpg

Kayaking, Chiaw Lan Lake | JKI14/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mae Hong Son Province

This province has more in common with Myanmar than anywhere else in Thailand. With its remote location, soaring mountains and unique culture, Mae Hong Son seems like a different country. Tramp through one of four national parks, explore on your motorcycle or do a self-guided trek.

shutterstock_1866550252-jpg

Pai Canyon | CHANCHAI DUANGDOOSAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3 BEACH BLISS

Southern Thailand has the celebrity beaches, but the eastern seaboard also has a couple of coastal spots worth checking out. Both regions encompass a mix of beach-party action and remote beaches with a more tranquil, low-key vibe – duplicity that’s hard to beat. As if lounging on velvety sands isn’t enough, top-class spas, beachside massages and yoga and meditation retreats add an extra layer of de-stressing.

Railay

At the tip of the Krabi peninsula are some of Thailand’s most famous beachy features: the soaring limestone karsts of Railay, anchored in the ocean. Visitors arrive by long-tail boat to lounge, swim, dive or rock-climb. Some get good enough to climb rope-free then fall harmlessly into the cobalt sea.

GettyRF_480767007_(1)-jpg

Hat Tham Phra Nang | TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ko Lanta

A beach bum’s best friend, Ko Lanta sports a mellow island vibe and a parade of peachy sand. Social butterflies alight on the northern beaches for the party scene. Solitude-seekers migrate southwards to low-key beach huts and a sleepy village ambience.

GettyImages-1203340388-jpg

RAZVAN CIUCA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ko Chang

This island offers top-notch resorts and spas, several escape-from-it-all guesthouses where the only facility is a hammock, and jaw-droppingly good sunsets. A long line of enticing beaches ranges from backpacker focused to family-friendly.

shutterstock_1199951932-jpg

RONEMMONS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4 SIZZLING STREET FOOD

The intense, multidimensional flavours of Thai food are reason to fall in love. Eating well is super delicious, remarkably convenient and well-priced. Dishes (and doses of chilli heat) range according to the region; every auntie has her own curry recipe that is rich and pungent. Savour the luscious tropical fruits in vendors’ glass cases, sliced and diced for just a few baht, plus all the grilled seafood delights.

Discovering Isan Food

The northeast’s triumvirate of dishes – gài yâhng (grilled chicken), sôm·đam (spicy green papaya salad) and kôw nĕe·o (sticky rice) – are among Thailand’s spiciest and most delicious.

shutterstock_1761752057-jpg

YAOWALAK RAHUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Feeding Frenzy in Chinatown

Yaowarat Road, Bangkok’s modern Chinatown, is perfect for a foodie crawl: visit the Thanon Phadungdao Seafood Stalls and Jek Pui, famous for its Thai-Chinese curries.

shutterstockRF_478425634-jpg

IPHOTO-THAILAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Gourmet Street Food

Jay Fai cooks Bangkok’s tastiest crab omelettes – she even has a Michelin star. Look for the crowds outside her little kitchen, and the chef herself wearing ski goggles and red lipstick.

shutterstockRF_1435448753-jpg

DEVIN TOLLESON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5 TEMPLE-HOPPING

Exploring glittering Buddhist temples, golden shrines and ancient Khmer sanctuaries is an important part of discovering Thailand’s past, but also its present and future. Buddhist traditions are interwoven into everyday life, from daily almsgiving to politics. At temples, you’ll see Thais building karma with offerings of gold leaf and candles plus earnest prayer – and while these places of worship are architecturally stunning, it’s these moments that make the experience.

Chiang Mai

The cultural capital of the north, Chiang Mai is jam-packed with temples from the once independent Lanna kingdom. These and the area’s winding side roads are best explored by bicycle.

shutterstock_1452455051-jpg

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep | BAMGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ayuthaya

Ayuthaya, the second capital of Siam from the 14th to the 18th century, now holds a certain mystique. Cycle around the brick-and-stucco temple ruins forming part of a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Phanom Rung Historical Park

Perched high atop an extinct volcano, Thailand’s most impressive Khmer ruin is something special. While not as awesome as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, it’s unique enough to consider visiting both.

Top Experiences

6 DREAM DIVES

Thailand is among the world’s top dive sites with warm and clear seas. Opportunities abound to see manta rays, whale sharks and other large pelagic fish. Above the waterline, the islands are an attraction in their own right, with jungle-filled interiors, limestone cliffs and crags, and smooth white beaches surrounded by coral reefs. Here you can truly get off the beaten track.

Surin & Similan Islands National Marine Parks

Surin and Similan have dramatic rocky gorges, hard and soft coral reefs and plenty of marine life.

shutterstock_362584154-jpg

METHA1819/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ko Lipe

Dive sites with healthy coral, a deep pinnacle and good visibility in the early rainy season. Ko Lipe takes work to reach but a burgeoning band of devotees agree it’s worth it.

shutterstock_1815262520-jpg

RAINAN DENBEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ko Tao

With abundant dive schools, shallow waters and year-round conditions, Ko Tao remains the country’s dive-training headquarters.

shutterstock_1170531175-jpg

D.LERTCHAIRIT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

7 PARTY HEARTY

If you’re looking to drink, dance and be merry, you’ve come to the right place. Thailand’s party circuit is well-varied; from fancy nightclubs and sky bars in Bangkok and resort towns to down-home backpacker bars and sand-covered dancefloors. Live music is especially big here – look out for acoustic guitar seshes, reggae gigs and DJ extravaganzas. Sips range from serious cocktails to buckets of Red Bull and vodka liable for almighty hangovers.

Ko Pha-Ngan

Famous for its techno-fuelled Full Moon Parties, Ko Pha-Ngan has graduated from a sleepy bohemian island to Asia’s Ibiza.

shutterstock_1720767889-jpg

Hat Rin | LESHIY985/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pai

Pai’s party scene combines an old-school hippie vibe and beautiful mountain scenery. Backpackers love the reggae shows at open-air bars and VW vans.

Bangkok’s Rooftop Bars

The City of Angels lives up to its name thanks to rooftop bars overlooking the street chaos with calm. It tends to stay chill up here but can escalate quickly with a pool or good DJ involved.

shutterstock_1141157900-jpg

Park Society bar | I VIEWFINDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8 MARKET MADNESS

Shopping sprees at Thai markets are thrilling. The experience can be exhilarating and atmospheric; from the buzzy crowds to buskers and sheer purchase power: street food, drinks, clothing, antiques and all kinds of curio for fabulous prices. You mostly can’t try garments on, but some finds are worth the risk. Besides, haggling itself is an art form and an adrenaline rush!

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Among the world’s largest open-air markets, Chatuchak (also referred to as ‘Jatujak’ or ‘JJ’) in Bangkok is a labyrinth of eclectic whatnots. Buy now – you may not find the stand again!

shutterstock_762915646-jpg

NUTZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cicada

One of Thailand’s most unique, non-traditional markets, Cicada on Hua Hin’s outskirts is full of young artisans selling handmade wares. Live entertainment and a good food court up the ante.

shutterstock_1009322167-jpg

ARTAPARTMENT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Khon Kaen Walking Street Market

Khon Kaen’s weekend bazaar isn’t touristy at all. Hundreds of vendors take over, buskers abound and Chinese-style lanterns create a charming ambience.

shutterstock_1133803613-jpg

AKEKALAK.PHATCHAITONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

9 FAR OUT FESTIVALS

You can’t go too far in Thailand without finding a festival that involves eating, partying or parading. The biggest, most widely-celebrated festivals are Buddhist holidays like the five-day Thai New Year, but Thailand is also known for excellent jazz and electronic music blowouts. On the quirkier side, rural towns hold fruit festivals – in Chiang Rai, the lychee is revered, while Chanthaburi celebrates the world’s stinkiest fruit, the durian.

Songkran

Thailand’s New Year festival in April is about using water to cleanse and show respect in temples. Once that’s done, water fights erupt on the streets!

Loi Krathong

Every November, Thais pray for forgiveness by setting lanterns afloat on waterways. The tradition is especially beloved by families and young Thai lovebirds.

shutterstockRF_229434979-jpg

Loi Krathong festival, Chiang Mai | TAKE PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Vegetarian Festivals

Vegetarian festivals are marked across Thailand in October; Phuket’s is famous. Locals of Chinese ancestry celebrate the start of a meat-free diet for 10 days of spiritual cleansing.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Thai baht (B)

Language

Thai

Visas

For visitors from 64 countries, visas are not required for stays of up to 30 days.

Money

Most places in Thailand only accept cash. Foreign credit cards are accepted by some travel agents, and in some upmarket hotels, restaurants, shopping malls and stores.

Mobile Phones

The easiest option for making calls in Thailand is to buy a local SIM card. Make sure that your mobile phone is unlocked before travelling.

Time

GMT plus seven hours

When to Go

03-climate-tha18

High Season (Nov–Mar)

A A cool and dry season follows the monsoons, meaning the landscape is lush and temperatures are comfortable.

A Christmas and the western New Year holidays bring crowds and inflated rates.

Shoulder Season (Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct)

A April to June is generally very hot and dry, with an average Bangkok temperature of 30°C. Sea breezes cool coastal areas.

A In September and October, the gulf coast islands are your best bet for avoiding rain.

Low Season (Jul–Oct)

A Monsoon season ranges from afternoon showers to major flooding. Rain is usually in short, intense bursts.

A Some islands shut down; boat service is limited during stormy weather. Be flexible with travel plans.

Useful Websites

Thaivisa (www.thaivisa.com) Expat site for news and discussions.

Richard Barrow (www.richardbarrow.com) Prolific blogger and tweeter focusing on Thai travel.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; www.tourismthailand.org) National tourism department covering info and special events.

Thai Language (www.thailanguage.com) Online dictionary and Thai tutorials.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/thailand) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than 1000B

A Basic guesthouse room: 500–1000B

A Market/street stall meal: 40–100B

A Small bottle of beer: 100B

A Public transport around town: 20–50B

Midrange: 1000–4000B

A Flashpacker guesthouse or midrange hotel room: 1000–4000B

A Western lunches and seafood dinner: 150–350B

A Organised tour or activity: 1000–1500B

A Motorbike hire: 150–250B

Top end: More than 4000B

A Boutique hotel room: 4000B

A Meal at fine-dining restaurant: 350–1000B

A Private tours: 2000B

A Car hire: from 900B per day

Opening Hours

Banks and government offices close for national holidays. Some bars and clubs close during elections and certain religious holidays when alcohol sales are banned. Shopping centres have banks that open late.

Banks 8.30am–4.30pm Monday to Friday; ATMs 24hr

Bars 6pm–midnight or 1am

Clubs 8pm–2am

Government offices 8.30am–4.30pm Monday to Friday; some close for lunch

Restaurants 8am–10pm

Shops 10am–7pm

Arriving in Thailand

Suvarnabhumi International Airport (Bangkok) The Airport Rail Link (45B, 30 minutes) runs to Phaya Thai station, buses run to Th Khao San (60B, 1 hour) and metered taxis (250B to 400B, 1 hour) run 24 hours.

Don Mueang International Airport (Bangkok) Four bus lines run into Bangkok, including one to Th Khao San (50B, 1 hour), metered taxis (250B to 400B, 1 hour) run 24 hours, and a free shuttle bus (1 hour) runs to Suvarnabhumi.

Chiang Mai International Airport Taxis (150B, 15 minutes) to the city centre run 24 hours.

Phuket International Airport Buses (100B, 1 hour) run to Phuket Town, metered taxis (500B to 700B, 30 minutes to 1 hour) and minivans (200B to 300B, up to 2 hours) run to the beaches and Phuket Town.

Safe Travel

Thailand is generally a safe country to visit, but it’s smart to exercise caution, especially when it comes to dealing with strangers (both Thais and foreigners) and travelling alone.

Assault of travellers is relatively rare in Thailand, but it does happen.

Possession of drugs can result in a year or more of prison time. Drug smuggling carries considerably higher penalties, including execution.

Disregard all offers of free shopping or sightseeing help from strangers. These are scams that invariably take a commission from your purchases.

For much more, see getting around

First Time Thailand

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months.

A Apply for a tourist visa from a Thai consulate for visits longer than 30 days.

A Organise travel insurance, diver’s insurance and international driving permit (IDP).

A Visit your doctor for a check-up and medical clearance if intending to dive.

A Inform your bank and credit-card company of your travel plans.

What to Pack

A Driving licence and international driving permit (IDP)

A Thai phrasebook

A GSM mobile phone and charger

A Hat and sunglasses

A Sandals

A Earplugs

A Rain-gear and dry bag if travelling in the rainy season

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Eat at markets or street stalls for true Thai flavour.

A Hop aboard local transport – it’s cheap and a great way to hang out with the locals.

A Hire a bicycle to tour towns and neighbourhoods.

A Memorise a few Thai phrases and always smile.

A Dodge the first-timer scams: one-day gem sales in Bangkok, insanely low (or high) transport prices, pushy tailors etc.

A Learn how to bargain without being a jerk.

A Avoid touching Thai people on the head.

A Don’t point with your feet.

A Dress conservatively (don’t expose your shoulders or too much leg) and remove your shoes when visiting Buddhist temples.

A Steer clear of politics and don’t make disparaging remarks about any member of Thailand’s royal family; it’s illegal.

What to Wear

In general, light, loose-fitting clothes will prove the most comfortable in the tropical heat. It’s worth bringing one jacket that can double as a raincoat and keep you warm in higher elevations. When you visit temples, wear clothes that cover to your elbows and knees. Bring something smart if you plan on fine dining or clubbing in Bangkok or Phuket.

Sleeping

Finding a place to stay in Thailand is easy. For peace of mind, book a room for your first few nights; after that, you can wing it unless you’re heading to popular destinations.

Guesthouses Family-run options are the best. Rooms run from basic (bed and fan) to plush (private bathroom and air-con).

Hotels From boutique to business, hotels offer mostly modern rooms and sometimes a swimming pool.

Hostels Just as the standard of guesthouses has improved, hostels have become more modern and stylish.

Money

Most places in Thailand only accept cash. Foreign credit cards are accepted by some travel agents and in some upmarket hotels, restaurants, shopping malls and stores.

For more information, see here.

Bargaining

Thais respect a good haggler. Always let the vendor make the first offer, then ask ‘Can you lower the price?’. This usually results in a discount. Now it’s your turn to make a counter-offer. Always start low, but don’t bargain unless you’re serious about buying. If you’re buying several of an item, you have much more leverage to request and receive a lower price. It helps immeasurably to keep the negotiations relaxed and friendly.

Tipping

Tipping is not generally expected in Thailand, though it is appreciated. The exception is loose change from a large restaurant bill – if a meal costs 488B and you pay with a 500B note, some Thais will leave the change. It’s a way of saying ‘I’m not so money grubbing as to grab every last baht’. At many hotel restaurants and more upmarket eateries, a 10% service charge will be added to your bill.

Language

Tourist towns are well stocked with English speakers, though bus drivers, market vendors and taxi drivers are less fluent, so it helps to know how to order food and count in Thai.

Thailand has its own script. Street signs are transliterated into English, but there is no standard system so spellings vary widely. Not all letters are pronounced as they appear (‘Ph’ is an aspirated ‘p’ not an ‘f’).

Etiquette

Thais are generally very understanding and hospitable, but there are some important taboos and social conventions.

Monarchy It is a criminal offence to disrespect the royal family; treat objects depicting the king (like money) with respect.

Temples Wear clothing that covers to your knees and elbows. Remove all footwear before entering. Sit with your feet tucked behind you, so they are not facing the Buddha image. Women should never touch a monk or a monk’s belongings; step out of the way on footpaths and don’t sit next to them on public transport.

Modesty At the beach, avoid public nudity or topless sunbathing. Cover-up going to and from the beach.

Body language Avoid touching anyone on the head and be careful where you point your feet; they’re the lowest part of the body literally and metaphorically.

Saving face The best way to win over Thais is to smile – visible anger or arguing is seen as embarrassing.

Eating

Thailand’s eateries span the entire spectrum. Booking is only necessary at a handful of the country’s most acclaimed restaurants.

Street stalls The most ubiquitous source of prepared food in Thailand, street stalls can be found just about anywhere, at any time of day or night.

Shophouse restaurants A step up, in terms of comfort and price, from the street stalls, these semi-outdoor eateries serve some of the best food in the country.

Restaurants Thailand’s restaurant scene is vast and varied, in terms of cuisine, amenities and price..

What’s New

Here’s the lowdown on what’s new and happening in Thailand. Visitors now have the chance to experience an elephant-friendly reserve, as well as Thailand’s first beachfront shopping mall, while new trains and buses will make getting around the country even easier

Ethical Elephant Experience

ChangChill is the only elephant reserve in Northern Thailand to be designated elephant-friendly by World Animal Protection. Guests spend their time watching the elephants from an observation deck, learning about their behaviour, gathering food for them and chatting with mahouts.

Beachfront Shopping Mall

Thailand’s first beachfront shopping mall has opened in Hua Hin and is proving a hit with both locals and visitors. Seenspace features a trendy layout of concrete walls and open-air areas, all home to restaurants, shops, a beach club and a boutique hotel.

Beach Cleanups

Trash Heroes (https://trashhero.org) is a growing initiative around Thailand’s beaches, with volunteers picking up rubbish across Phuket, Ko Samui, Ko Chang and most other major beaches and islands.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THAILAND

Barbara Woolsey and David Eimer, Lonely Planet Writers

Throughout 2020 and into 2021, Bangkok was the site of frequent political protests largely organised and led by students. The so-called pro-democracy movement has seen thousands of Thais taking to the capital’s streets and social media, many symbolically holding up the three-finger salute from The Hunger Games film as a show of unity.

The protesters are calling for a new constitution and monarchy reform. In 2019 a much-delayed election saw prime minister Prayut Chan-o-cha, the former junta leader, confirmed as the head of a coalition government, while King Maha Vajiralongkorn, also known as Rama X, was crowned in a three-day ceremony in Bangkok.

The protests have mostly been peaceful, but reveal a country that remains politically polarised with people in the north and northeast of Thailand remaining loyal to the party of the exiled former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, while Prayut’s supporters can be found among the traditional elite, the urban middle classes and voters in the south of the country.

A massive gap between the rich and poor – in 2018 Thailand was officially ranked as the world’s most unequal country – is the principal reason for that political divide. There is also an increasing awareness of the environmental challenges facing Thailand, with rising levels of air pollution in the big cities and the impact of tourism on beaches and coastlines a particular concern.

Visa Exemption Program Expanded

Thailand’s Visa Exemption Rule has expanded to cover 64 countries. If you hold a passport from one of those countries you can now stay for up to 30 days, whether you arrive by air, land or sea.

Singha Nakhon

It’s not new but it’s worth making tracks for tracks for Singha Nakhon. It’s a history buff’s dream, with ancient walls, forgotten tombs and decaying, jungle-covered military forts scattered across the shores of Songkhla Lake.

Bangkok SkyWalk

Perched atop Thailand’s tallest building, SkyWalk at King Power Mahanakhon offers an unparalleled and nerve-jangling 360-degree view of the Bangkok cityscape. The glass-floored balcony hangs 78 floors above the earth.

Better Train Travel

The State Railway of Thailand is slated to open Southeast Asia’s largest railway station in 2021. The shiny new Bang Sue Grand Station in northern Bangkok is expected to cure some of the capital’s traffic congestion and make cross-country travel even easier with new trains. With 26 platforms across four storeys, Bang Sue will accommodate up to 600,000 passengers daily – retiring its century-old predecessor, the grand dame station Hua Lamphong, into a museum.

Phuket Smart Bus

The Phuket Smart Bus travels from Phuket’s airport down the west coast to Rawai, making stops at the beaches. A three-day unlimited pass is available for 500B.

Paddleboarding in Kanchanaburi

It is now possible to travel Mae Nam Kwae Yai and other rivers in Kanchanaburi by standup paddleboard, a new way to see some of the most stunning scenery in Thailand.

Bangkok Duty Free

There’s no need to wait until your flight home to do your duty-free shopping – just head to King Power Mahanakhon, four floors of excise-free goodies. You can even claim VAT refunds here.

LISTEN, WATCH AND FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/thailand/travel-tips-and-articles.

twitter.com/thailandfanclub Official Twitter account for Tourism Authority of Thailand (@ThailandFanClub).

twitter.com/bangkokpostnews Official Twitter account for the English-language Bangkok Post newspaper (@BangkokPostNews).

instagram@thailandluxe Stunning images from across Thailand.

The Bangkok Podcast (www.bangkokpodcast.com) Podcast in English covering all that is weird and wonderful about Thailand’s capital.

FAST FACTS

Food Trend High-end regional Thai restaurants

Number of islands in Thailand 1430

Number of languages spoken in Thailand 74

Pop 69.3 million

Thailand-infographic-redjpg

Accommodation

Find more accommodation reviews throughout the On the Road chapters (from)

Accommodation Types

A Guesthouses Family-run options are the best. In smaller destinations some guesthouses can be old-school and basic, with shared bathrooms and ancient fans, but private en-suite facilities, air-con and a TV are now the norm in most places.

A Hotels Thailand has a wide choice of hotels, most offering modern rooms. Budget and mid-range chain hotels are available across the country, while boutique places congregate in Bangkok and Chiang Mai especially. International-class four- and five-star hotels can be found in the big cities and the high-end beach destinations.

A Hostels European-style hostels are often the best budget option in big cities and on expensive islands. Many of the newer ones share a common design theme of smooth concrete walls and floors and a vague industrial-chic look. Communal activities are normally on offer.

A Homestays A less-commercial budget option, mostly found in rural areas, where you stay in a family home with food included in the price.

A National Parks Accommodation Most national parks have bungalows and/or campsites to stay in. Bungalows are often basic – no wi-fi. Tents and camping gear can often be hired.

Price Ranges

Big Cities & Beach Resorts

The following price ranges refer to a double room with private bathroom and are the high-season walk-in rates.

$ less than 1000B

$$ 1000–4000B

$$$ more than 4000B

Elsewhere

The following price ranges refer to a double room with private bathroom and are the high-season walk-in rates.

$ less than 600B

$$ 600–1500B

$$$ more than 1500B

Best Places to Stay

Best on a Budget

Thailand has a huge range of budget accommodation, from hostels to guesthouses via old-school hotels. Hostels can be found everywhere, but are especially prevalent in the most popular city destinations. Budget guesthouses are spread across the country, too. You’re most likely to find bargain-rate hotels in towns off the tourist trail.

A Infinity Beach Hostel Great-value hostel metres from the beach on Ko Pha-Ngan.

A Chern Big dorms and the private rooms are a steal for Bangkok.

A Pak-Up Hostel Krabi Town’s most popular hostel features comfortable dorms.

A Paradise Cottage Well-run and relaxing retreat on Ko Chang’s Lonely Beach.

A Riverside Guest House Charming traditional wooden house on the river in Lampang.

A Nok Chan Mee Na Pristine and comfortable bungalows set in a photogenic rice paddy.

Best for Families

Thailand is a supremely child-friendly destination and families are welcomed everywhere. But the best family-orientated places are located on the islands – Phuket, Ko Samui, Ko Lanta, Ko Chang especially – or along the mainland’s beaches. The region south of Hua Hin is very popular with families. Swimming pools and other entertainment options are less available in more remote areas.

A Samui Jasmine Resort Kiddies pool, babysitting and creche services at this beachfront place on Ko Samui.

A The Sands Khao Lak resort with a terrific water park, multiple pools and playgrounds.

A Dolphin Bay Resort This Pranburi place has holiday-camp ambience, and the beach is across the road.

A Phi-Phi Island Village A self-contained world of its own, by a blissful white-sand beach on Ko Phi-Phi.

A Fern Resort Long-standing Mae Hong Son favourite with swimming pools, nature trails and a huge garden to play in.

A Awana House The staff at this Chiang Mai guesthouse go the extra mile for kids.

Best for Solo Travellers

So many visitors are passing through Thailand at any one time that solo travellers who want to stay solitary may find it difficult to do so. Hostels on the islands and in key mainland destinations like Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Pai arrange tours and daily events, while some guesthouses organise nightly dinners where people can meet and socialise.

A Common Grounds Pai’s most social and party-friendly hostel.

A The Chic Lipe Boutique hostel on Ko Lipe with a restaurant, bar and library.

A Sri Pat Guest House Stand-out flashpacker place in Chiang Mai.

A BB Lonely Beach Backpacker hang-out on Ko Chang’s party beach.

A Lub d A bar and plenty of games to play at this fun Bangkok hostel.

A King’s Home Family-run Hua Hin guesthouse with a warm and welcoming vibe.

Best Nature Retreats

Thailand has many accommodation options located in areas far from the hustle of the cities and the most-visited destinations. They range from digs alongside the Mekong River, to eco-friendly resorts hidden away on islands and in the forests and mountains of northern Thailand. Families travelling away from the beaches will find that big gardens and plenty of animal-spotting opportunities help keep kids amused.

A Sang Tong Huts Individually-designed bamboo and wood bungalows set amidst woods outside Mae Hong Son.

A Bann Makok Boutique eco-resort tucked into the mangroves on idyllic Ko Kut.

A Bulunburi Eleven bungalows nestling in a secluded valley of rice fields and streams near Pai.

A Viking Natures Resort Monkeys in the jungly garden, a beach and driftwood-decorated digs in Ko Phi-Phi.

A Rai Saeng Arun Laid-back eco-friendly resort that sits right by the Mekong River outside Chiang Khong.

A Railay Great View Resort Tropical-chic thatch-roofed bungalows in a forested garden on Railay that leads to a private beach.

Booking

Finding a place to stay in Thailand is easy. For peace of mind, book a room for your first few nights; after that, you can wing it unless you’re heading to the most popular destinations. Bear in mind that vacancies can be scarce during certain holidays and peak travel periods.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/thailand/hotels) Find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay – and then book them online.

Agoda (www.agoda.com/country/thailand.html) Asia-based booking site that covers the full range of accommodation, from hostels to luxury resorts. Travelfish (www.travelfish.org/country/thailand) Independent reviews with lots of reader feedback.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Songkran, April

Khao Phansaa, July

Vegetarian Festival, October

Loi Krathong, November

January

The weather is cool and dry, ushering in the peak tourist season.

z Chinese New Year

Thais with Chinese ancestry celebrate the Chinese lunar new year (đrùt jeen) with a week of house-cleaning and fireworks.

February

Still in the high season, but less crowded than December and January, Thailand is sun and fun for anyone escaping colder weather elsewhere.

z Flower Festival

Chiang Mai displays its floral beauty during a three-day period. The festival highlight is the flower-decorated floats that parade through town.

z Makha Bucha

Makha Bucha (mah·ká boo·chah) commemorates the day when 1250 arahant (Buddhists who had achieved enlightenment) assembled to visit Buddha and received the principles of Buddhism; the festival falls on the full moon of the third lunar month. It is a public holiday.

March

The hot and dry season approaches and the beaches start to empty out, coinciding with Thailand’s semester break (‘mid-term’), when students head out on sightseeing trips.

5 Mango Season

Luscious ripe mangoes come into season from March to June and are sliced before your eyes, packed in a container with sticky rice and accompanied with a coconut-milk-based dressing.

z Kite-Flying Festivals

During the windy season, colourful kites battle it out over the skies of Sanam Luang in Bangkok and elsewhere in the country.

April

Hot, dry weather sweeps across the land. Though the main tourist season is winding down, make reservations well in advance – the whole country is on the move for Songkran.

z Poy Sang Long

This colourful Buddhist novice ordination festival held in late March/early April in Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai sees young Shan (Tai Yai) boys between the ages of seven and 14 parading in festive costumes, headdresses and make-up.

z Songkran

Thailand’s traditional new year (13–15 April) begins as a respectful affair then degenerates into a water war. Morning visits to the temple involve water-sprinkling ceremonies of sacred Buddha images. Afterwards, Thais load up their water guns and head out to the streets for combat.

May

Leading up to the rainy season, festivals believed to encourage plentiful rains and bountiful harvests take place. Prices are low and tourists are few but it is still remorselessly hot.

z Rocket Festival

In the northeast, where rain can be scarce, villagers craft painted bamboo rockets (bâng fai) that are fired into the sky to encourage precipitation. This festival is celebrated in Yasothon, Ubon Ratchathani and Nong Khai.

z Royal Ploughing Ceremony

This royal ceremony employs astrology and ancient Brahman rituals to kick off the rice-planting season. Sacred oxen are hitched to a wooden plough and part the ground of Sanam Luang in Bangkok.

z Visakha Bucha

The holy day of Visakha Bucha (wí·săh·kà boo·chah) falls on the 15th day of the waxing moon in the sixth lunar month and commemorates the date of the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and parinibbana (passing away).

June

In some parts of the country, the rainy season is merely an afternoon shower, leaving the rest of the day for music and merriment. This month is a shoulder season.

5 Chanthaburi Fruit Festival

Held at the end of May or the start of June, this festival in Chanthaburi is an opportunity to enjoy an abundance of fruit: mangosteen, rambutan, longkong, longan, salak and the pungent durian.

3 Hua Hin Jazz Festival

Jazz groups descend on this royal retreat in mid-June for a musical homage to the late king, an accomplished jazz saxophonist and composer.

z Phi Ta Khon

The Buddhist holy day of Bun Phra Wet is given a carnival makeover in Dan Sai village in northeast Thailand. Revellers disguise themselves in garish ‘spirit’ costumes and parade through the streets wielding wooden phalluses and downing rice whisky. Dates vary between June and July.

3 Pattaya International Music Festival

Pattaya showcases pop and rock bands from across Asia at this free music event, attracting bus-loads of Bangkok university students.

July

The start of the rainy season ushers in Buddhist Lent, a period of reflection and meditation. Summer holidays bring an upsurge in tourists.

z Asahna Bucha

The full moon of the eighth lunar month commemorates Buddha’s first sermon, in which he described the religion’s four noble truths. It is considered one of Buddhism’s holiest days.

z Khao Phansaa

The day after Asahna Bucha marks the beginning of Buddhist Lent (the first day of the waning moon in the eighth lunar month), the traditional time for men to enter monasteries. In Ubon Ratchathani, traditional candle offerings have grown into a festival of elaborately carved wax sculptures.

z HM the King’s Birthday

The king’s birthday is celebrated as a public holiday on 28 July.

August

Overcast skies and daily showers mark the middle of the rainy season and, in theory, mean fewer visitors.

z HM the Queen’s Birthday

The Queen Mother’s birthday (12 August) is a public holiday and also marks national Mother’s Day.

October

Religious preparations for the end of the rainy season and Buddhist Lent begin. The monsoons are reaching the finish line (in most of the country).

z King Chulalongkorn Day

Rama V is honoured on the anniversary of his death at the Royal Plaza in Bangkok’s

Dusit neighbourhood. Held on 23 October.

z Ork Phansaa

The end of Buddhist Lent (three lunar months after Khao Phansaa) is marked by the gà·tĭn ceremony, in which new robes are given to the monks by merit-makers.

5 Vegetarian Festival

A holiday from meat is taken for nine days in adherence with Chinese beliefs of mind and body purification. In Phuket the festival gets extreme, with entranced marchers turning themselves into human shish kebabs. Generally held late September/early October.

z Bangkok Biennale

Running from October to February in alternate years, the Bangkok Biennale is a new mega-festival that started in 2018–19, showcasing the works of some of Asia’s biggest and trendiest artists at public spaces across the metropolis. The next edition is scheduled for 2020–21.

November

The cool, dry season has arrived, and if you get here early enough, you’ll beat the tourist crowds. The beaches are inviting and the landscape is lush.

z Loi Krathong

One of Thailand’s most beloved festivals, Loi Krathong is celebrated on the first full moon of the 12th lunar month. Small origami-like boats (called kràthong or grà·tong) festooned with flowers and candles are sent adrift in the waterways.

z Lopburi Monkey Festival

On the last Sunday in November, the town’s troublesome macaques get pampered with their very own banquet, while merit-makers watch on.

December

The peak of the tourist season has returned with fair skies, busy beach resorts and a holiday mood.

z Chiang Mai Red Cross & Winter Fair

A 10-day festival in late December that displays Chiang Mai’s cultural heritage with a country-fair atmosphere; expect food (lots of it) and traditional performances.

z Rama IX’s Birthday

Honouring the late king’s birthday on 5 December, this public holiday hosts parades and merit-making events, and is combined with Father’s Day.

Itineraries

Bangkok & Around

09-bangkok-around-itin-tha18-jpg

1 WEEK

If time is not on your side, you can still explore jungles, temples and Thai culture – all of which are within easy reach of Bangkok.

After a quick look around the major temples and markets in the capital, and hitting its top restaurants, embark on the wonderfully scenic train ride to Kanchanaburi. Here, enjoy a dip in the seven-tiered Erawan waterfall before visiting the Hellfire Pass Memorial, a poignant tribute to the thousands of prisoners of war who died making the Death Railway during WWII. The nearby forests are ideal for adventure activities or outdoor excursions, such as ziplining over the forest canopies or cruising along the River Kwai.

Next, jump in a minivan bound for Ayuthaya and cycle around the impressive ruins of this erstwhile capital. Finally, head over to Khao Yai National Park, transiting through Pak Chong. Spend a day hiking through the jungle in search of elephants and tigers, and a night camping under the stars before making your way back to Bangkok.

Itineraries

Essential Thailand

09-grand-tour-itin-tha18-jpg

4 WEEKS

A fully rounded trip to Thailand meanders through almost every corner of the kingdom. If you need to save time, hop on a flight – planes go everywhere these days.

Start off in Bangkok, and then take a train north to the ancient capital of Ayuthaya. Make a brief detour to the monkey town of Lopburi. From here, head north to Sukhothai, where you can cycle through the crumbling ruins of another ancient capital. Hightail it to Chiang Mai, the laid-back ‘rose of the north’, and cycle around the old temples. Then switch back into the mountains for the party scene in Pai. Climb deeper into the hills to the Myanmar-influenced town of Mae Hong Son. Loop back to Chiang Mai.

Fly to the Gulf of Thailand and stop at Ko Samui for its resort-island trappings, Ko Pha-Ngan for beach bumming and partying, and Ko Tao for diving and snorkelling.

Next, get over to the Andaman Coast and its limestone mountains jutting out of the sea. Ko Phi-Phi is the prettiest and most party-fuelled of them all. Little Ko Jum holds tight to a fast-disappearing beach-shack, hippie vibe. Ko Lanta has gentrified into a package-tour destination, but the dive scene is the real attraction. Rock-climbers opt for mainland Krabi and nearby Railay.

If you’ve got the itch for more sand then continue down the peninsula to the Trang Islands, another collection of limestone sea mountains lapped by clear waters. Or opt for the idyllic islands offshore from Satun. There’s also emerging and midrange Ko Bulon Leh, rustic Ko Tarutao and laid-back but hip Ko Lipe.

Alternatively, skip the beaches south of Krabi and instead try a cultural tour of the northeast, Thailand’s agricultural heartland. Transit through Bangkok and then crawl through the jungles of Khao Yai National Park. From here, head to Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), a transit point for trips to the Angkor ruins at Phimai. Follow the Khmer trail east to Phanom Rung, the most important and visually impressive of the Angkor temples in Thailand. Surrounding Phanom Rung are a handful of smaller, more remote and forgotten temples with regal ambience.

Itineraries

Southern Islands & Beaches

09-southern-itin-tha18-jpg

3 WEEKS

Hitting all of Thailand’s top beaches requires some serious island-hopping, but it can be done. This trip takes you there by land and sea, but if you need to hurry up, hop on a flight along the way.

From Bangkok, dip south into Hua Hin, an upmarket resort town where all the top hotel chains have a spot on the beach. Then on to Prachuap Khiri Khan, where you can hire a bike and check out the undulating coast, bays and laid-back beach scene.

Now for some island time, first stop Ko Tao (via Chumphon). Sign up for a dive course or enjoy a few days of snorkelling before island-hopping to Ko Pha-Ngan for Full Moon Party fun or an other-side-of-the-island escape. Retire to the resort island of Ko Samui for some pampering (or, if you have the energy, more partying), from here it’s a short ferry ride to transport hub Surat Thani. Buses leave hourly for Khao Sok National Park, where you can enjoy some jungle time in one of the world’s oldest rainforests before making the short transfer to Khao Lak, a mainland beach resort that serves as the perfect base for dive trips to the world-famous Similan Islands and, to the north, the Surin Islands. Consider spending a few days on a live-aboard to linger in the underwater world full of rays, sharks and seahorses. Once you surface, go south to Phuket – Thailand’s largest island – and gulp down the numerous attractions and activities on offer here (don’t miss a day trip to Ao Phang-Nga).

From Phuket, jump on a boat bound for Ko Phi-Phi, a party island that stays up all night and still looks fantastic in the morning. From here you can head back to the mainland and explore the gorgeous coastline of Krabi (be sure to take a long-boat to Railay beach, regarded as one of the finest in Thailand) or ferry straight to Ko Lanta to collapse in a hammock and drink in the bucolic island life. Continue south by ferry past the beautiful Trang Islands to popular but still stunning Ko Lipe. Catch a speedboat back to the mainland when you’re ready to begin your journey home.

shutterstock_1062677885-jpg

Hikers, Doi Chiang Dao | AKE13BK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

shutterstock_790574494-jpg

Wat Phra That Phanom | SOUTHTOWNBOY STUDIO /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Northern Thailand

09-northern-thailand-itin-tha18-jpg

3 WEEKS

Hike in a region of lush mountains and ethnic-minority villages that cling to the border between Thailand, Myanmar and Laos.

Chiang Mai is an ideal base, with meditation, language and massage courses on offer. Follow the northwestern spur to Pai, a mountain retreat with daytime hikes and night-time carousing. Next is Soppong, a mecca for caving. Continue to Mae Hong Son, a remote region more akin to Myanmar than Bangkok. The last stop is Mae Sariang, a small riverside town with a good reputation for sustainable trekking.

Return to civilisation in Chiang Mai and plot your move towards Chiang Rai. More mountains await in Chiang Dao. Next, head for Chiang Rai via the charming riverside village of Tha Ton before zigzagging up the mountain ridge to Doi Mae Salong, a Yunnanese-Chinese tea settlement. Slide into Chiang Rai for a hill-people homestay and culturally sensitive treks, before continuing on to Chiang Saen and Sop Ruak, formerly part of the infamous Golden Triangle. Bypass the crowds with a stop in Phayao, a pleasant northern town for temple-spotting, before returning to Chiang Mai.

Itineraries

Mekong River

09-mekong-river-itin-tha18-jpg

2 WEEKS

The most scenic route through Thailand’s rural northeast (known as Isan) is along the Mekong River, which divides Thailand and Laos. There aren’t a lot of big-ticket attractions but those who venture here will find plenty of culture, an old-fashioned way of life, easygoing people and interesting homestays.

Start in the charming town of Nong Khai, a rock-skipping throw from Laos and an easy border-crossing point. If the pace here is too fast, follow the river road east to Bueng Kan, a dusty speck of a town with a nearby temple built on a rocky outcrop and several neighbouring homestays with forays into wild-elephant territory. Pass through Nakhon Phanom for its picturesque river promenade and tiny That Phanom, with its famous Lao-style temple, honoured with a vibrant 10-day festival early in the year.

For a little urban Isan, check out Ubon Ratchathani, surrounded by the Pha Taem National Park, river rapids and handicraft villages. From here you can exit into Laos at Pakse or catch an overnight train to Bangkok.

09-otbt-tha18-jpg

Plan Your Trip

Activities

With oceans and islands to explore, jungles and mountains to discover and a rich and varied culture to embrace, Thailand overflows with activities. For adventure seekers, there are canopy-skimming ziplines, hard-kicking moo·ay tai (Thai boxing) lessons and world-class dive sites. Less adrenaline-fuelled pursuits include spas and massage and cookery courses.

When to Go

January to March

What is laughingly known locally as the cold season is a great time to focus on outdoor pursuits, as the temperatures are warm but bearable. Trekking in the northern provinces is particularly good around this time.

November to April

Diving visibility can be incredible around the islands in the Andaman. Between May and October resorts tend to grind to a halt or close due to the rainy season.

January to September

Dive capital Ko Tao is primed for diving nearly all year round, but many resorts here and on nearby islands close between October and December when the rains come.

Diving & Snorkelling

The waters off Thailand are filled with myriad marine species. Nearly all the signature dive sites are in the south, though the eastern seaboard has some good coral and wreck dives. Always go with a responsible operator that enforces sustainable practices.

Where to Go

Surin & Similan Islands Both the Surin and Similan Islands are stunning national parks. Surin is a collection of five islands that sits 60km offshore while the Similan is a nearby group of nine granite islands. Their dive sites are regularly named as being among the finest in the world due to the visiting pelagics, superb visibility (up to 35m) and the array of canyons. Dive trips and live-aboards, for all levels, can be arranged from Phuket or Hat Khao Lak.

Hin Daeng & Hin Muang Accessible from Ko Lanta, these two remote rocks don’t look much from the surface. Down below things change dramatically and sightings often include manta rays and barracuda. With depths of up to 40m and strong currents, divers should have some experience.

Ko Tao New to diving? Check out Ko Tao, the cheapest and best place to get your open-water certification. For non-divers, there are plenty of simple snorkelling coves.

GettyImages-584237530-jpg

Scuba divers in the Andaman Sea | BILL_VORASATE / GETTY IMAGES ©

shutterstock_636553817-jpg

Thai cooking class, Chiang Mai | ANNA EWA BIENIEK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hiking & Trekking

Northern Thailand has excellent hiking routes filled with cascading waterfalls, dense jungle and soaring mountain ranges. Stay overnight in minority villages or pitch a tent with nature as your only neighbour. Along with treks, guides can arrange cycling, kayaking and rafting excursions. Choose operators who promote sustainability.

Where to Go

Chiang Mai Northern capital Chiang Mai is the main jumping-off point for treks, such as day trips to Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain. Hardcore trekkers head to more remote spots such as Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary, home to the kingdom’s largest waterfall, or learn survival skills from guides who grew up near the jungles.

Loei There are some spectacular trekking options in Loei. Among them is Phu Kradueng National Park, where you can take the 5.5km trail to the plateau, or experience the relatively cooler climes of the pine forests and savannah.

Spas & Yoga

Supreme pampering is available at any number of world-class spas. Yoga, too, is huge and there are teachers, classes and retreats all around the country.

Where to Go

Phuket probably has the greatest concentration of superior spas in Thailand, but Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Ko Samui are all spa-central, too.

Bangkok has numerous yoga studios, but the best retreats are on the islands in the south, especially Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui, or in Chiang Mai and Pai in northern Thailand.

Thai Cooking

Learning how to cook authentic Thai food is high on many visitors’ to-do lists. Many Thai chefs are happy to share their secrets and take foodies on trips to local markets to teach them about specific ingredients.

Where to Go

Bangkok Thailand’s capital is home to the biggest spread of Thai-cooking schools.

Chiang Mai To master Thailand’s northern cuisine, pick one of the numerous cookery schools in Chiang Mai. Some focus on vegetarian or organic options.

Thai Boxing

Ever dreamed of becoming a Thai boxing champ? Moo·ay tai (also spelt muay thai) training camps put you through your paces with packages that involve general fitness and ring work.

Where to Go

Bangkok Thailand’s capital is home to a number of schools spanning every level. Beginners are particularly well catered for at gyms such as Jaroenthong Muay Thai Gym.

Pattaya Fairtex Sports Club ( map; icon-phonegif %038 253888; www.fairtexpattaya.com; 179/185-212 Mu 5, Th Pattaya Neua; sessions 800B) has excellent facilities aimed at training foreign visitors with any level of fitness or fighting experience. National champions and MMA (mixed martial arts) fighters also drop in to spar.

Chiang Mai The northern capital has several top moo·ay tai gyms, including Lanna Muay Thai Boxing Camp, where everyone – from national champions to total beginners – comes to train.

Plan Your Trip

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Incendiary curries, oodles of noodles, fresh seafood and the tropical fruit you’ve been dreaming about – Thailand has it all. To experience the country’s full gastronomic glory, you need to familiarise yourself with the dishes of its various regions and ethnic groups.

GettyImages-154959807-jpg

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Ratchaburi | ILONABUDZBON / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Year in Food

Summer (March to June)

Thailand’s hot season is the best time of year for fruit. Durian, mangoes, mangosteen and lychees are all at their juicy peak during these months.

Rainy Season (July to October)

One event to look out for during the rainy season is Thailand’s annual Vegetarian Festival, typically held in late September or early October. The festival is celebrated particularly in places with large Chinese populations, such as Bangkok, Phuket Town and Trang.

Winter (November to January)

During Thailand’s brief cool season, open-air beer halls, many serving spicy Thai drinking snacks, spring up in the larger cities.

Food Experiences

Meals of a Lifetime

A Saawaan This Michelin-starred Bangkok restaurant is one of the finest Thai eateries in the world.

A Gaa 10-

Reviews for Lonely Planet Thailand

[ngennaro_4 · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

Excellent tour guide book. Great details, information and points to look at and explore. Still use it even though a bit out of date.

[trile1000 · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

Good basic overview of Thailand. Plenty of useful maps and tidbits of information. Well organized and typical of Lonely Planet guides.

[dryfly_1 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

Very accurate and usefull travel book.

[cydonian_1 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

Why would you even want to visit Thailand without this book?