Lonely Planet Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

By Virginia Maxwell

Lonely Planet’s Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Party in Kuta, discover Jimbaran seafood, and hike Rinjani; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara’s best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 60 maps 

Covers Kuta & Southwest Beaches, South Bali & the Islands, Ubud Region, East Bali, Central Mountains, North Bali, West Bali, Lombok, Gili Islands, Nusa Tenggara

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara, our most comprehensive guide to Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Pocket Bali, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Mar 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838695514

Virginia Maxwell

Aunque afincada en Australia, Virginia Maxwell pasa el menos medio año actualizando para Lonely Planet destinos de Europa y Oriente Próximo. Si bien el Mediterráneo es la zona que más le interesa, ha cubierto España, Italia, Turquía, Siria, el Líbano, Israel, Egipto y Marruecos para las guías Lonely Planet. Virginia ha escrito también para las guías Lonely Planet de Finlandia, Armenia, Irán y Australia. En Instagram y Twitter se la puede seguir en @maxwellvirginia.

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Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

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Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Map

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Activities

Travel with Children

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Kuta & Southwest Beaches

Kuta & Legian

Seminyak

Kerobokan

Canggu Region

Umalas

Canggu

Echo Beach

Pererenan Beach

SOUTH BALI & THE ISLANDS

Denpasar

Sanur

Bukit Peninsula

Jimbaran

Balangan Beach

Bingin

Padang Padang

Ulu Watu

Ungasan

Nusa Dua

Tanjung Benoa

Nusa Lembongan & Islands

Nusa Lembongan

Nusa Ceningan

Nusa Penida

UBUD REGION

Ubud

Bedulu

North of Ubud

Tegallalang

Tampaksiring

South of Ubud

Mas

Blahbatuh

Sukawati

Batubulan

Abiansemal

EAST BALI

Gianyar

Klungkung (Semarapura)

Bangli

Sideman

Gunung Agung

Coast Road to Kusamba

Kusamba

Padangbai

Manggis

Candidasa

Tirta Gangga

Amed & the Far East Coast

Tulamben

Northeast Coast

CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

Gunung Batur Area

Gunung Batur

Around Gunung Batur Crater

Danau Batur

Danau Bratan Area

Bedugul

Candikuning

Danau Buyan & Danau Tamblingan

Munduk

Gunung Batukau Area

The Antosari Road

NORTH BALI

Yeh Sanih

Singaraja

Lovina

Pemuteran

Banyuwedang

Labuhan Lalang

Bali Barat National Park

WEST BALI

Cemagi

Tabanan

South of Tabanan

North of Tabanan

Balian Beach

Jembrana Coast

Palasari & Belimbingsari

Gilimanuk

LOMBOK

West Lombok

Mataram

Senggigi

Southwestern Peninsula

Tanjung Desert

Gili Gede & the Southwest Gilis

North & Central Lombok

Gunung Rinjani

Sire

Northwest Coast

Senaru

Sembalun Valley

Tetebatu

South Lombok

Kuta

Gerupuk

Ekas

Selong Blanak

GILI ISLANDS

Gili Trawangan

Gili Meno

Gili Air

NUSA TENGGARA

Sumbawa

Jelenga

Maluk

Rantung Beach & Around

Sumbawa Besar

Pulau Moyo

Gunung Tambora

Pantai Lakey

Sape

Komodo & Rinca Islands

Flores

Labuan Bajo

Ruteng

Bajawa

Riung

Ende

Kelimutu

Moni

Paga

Maumere

Waiara

Wodong

Alor Archipelago

Kalabahi

West Timor

Kupang

Soe

Kefamenanu

Temkessi

Rote

Nemberala

Sumba

UNDERSTAND

Understand Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

History

Local Life & Religion

The Arts

Architecture

Environment

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Region

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Bemo

Car & Motorcycle

Local Transport

Health

Before You Go

In Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Heralded as a place of healing in prevailing lore, the mystic vitality of Bali, – and Nusa Tenggara quickens an inherent spirituality in anyone who visits their shores. Beckoning introspection, this is a land of dreamers and doers. Thanks to a wealth of activities and experiences across distinctly different enclaves, you can build your own version of bliss. A glance in any direction is arresting: azure waves, volcanic peaks and ribbons of green interlace with sky. And in the graceful countenance of the local people, a knowing glance equates an embrace.

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Pura Luhur Ulu Watu | R.M. NUNES/SHUTTESTOCK ©

By MaSovaida Morgan, Writer

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twitterpng @masovaida instagrampng @masovaida

For more, see our writers

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara’s Top 12

1CREATIVE CUSTOMS

Bali’s creative heritage is everywhere and there’s nothing fake about it. Temples, or pura, are the centre of spiritual activity, with dance and musical performances that are the result of an ever-evolving culture with a centuries-long legacy. Rigid choreography and discipline are hallmarks of beautiful Balinese dance. Music is based around an ensemble called a gamelan, which creates unforgettable melodies with bamboo and bronze instruments.

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Religious ceremony, Ubud | OLEGD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ten-Thousand Temples

With over 10,000 temples, Bali has such a variety that you can’t even categorise them. You’ll see them everywhere – their hallowed ceremonies, intricate architecture, sunset dance performances, and sweeping views are all yours to behold.

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Pura Tanah Lot | KIRILL IKONNIKOV/SHUTTESTOCK ©

Bali’s Processions

There you are at a cafe in, say, Kuta, when there’s a crash of the gamelan and traffic halts for a temple procession, disappearing as suddenly as it appeared, leaving a fleeting sparkle of white silk and hibiscus petals in its wake. Dozens occur daily across Bali.

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Nyepi procession, Kuta, Bali | FERITA RAHAYUNINGSIH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Balinese Dance

Balinese dance demands methodical precision. Each movement has a meaning and language flows with a hypnotic grace as dancers tell stories rich with the essence of Hindu beliefs and lore. Performances occur regularly at temples like Pura Dalem Ubud.

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Kecak dance performance at Pura Dalem Ubud | CONSTANTIN STANCIU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2LIFE’S A BEACH

While there’s no shortage of beaches on Bali, ones with white sand aren’t as common as you’d think, save for the sands along the Bukit Peninsula.The palette ranges from some variation of tan or brown, to silvery gray and glittering black. Sugary white sand abounds on Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida and Nusa Tenggara. Gili beaches are uniformly gorgeous with a timeless traveller vibe. Lombok boasts a pink-sand beach in the southeast.

Kuta

Tourism on Bali began here, and is there any question why? A sweeping arc of sand curves 12km northwest from Kuta to Echo Beach. Stroll the sand for a cold beer with thousands of new friends in the south, or find a hip hang-out up north.

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Kuta Beach | NETFALLS REMY MUSSER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Selong Blanak

Southern Lombok’s coastline has a wild savage beauty and few visitors. On pristine Selong Blanak beach, enjoy a perfect swath of powdery white sand where the swimming in clear, turquoise-tinged water is superb.

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Selong Blanak beach | ARIEF ADHARI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bukit List

A little plume of white sand rises out of the blue Indian Ocean and fills a cove below limestone cliffs clad in deep green tropical beauty. It sounds idyllic, and it is. The west coast of the Bukit Peninsula is dotted with these very beaches, such as Balangan and Padang Padang.

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Padang Padang beach | DANIEL_FERRYANTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3NATURE’S WONDERS

From bewildering cliffs and cerulean seas, to astounding peaks and dizzying terraces of jade, the natural beauty of Bali and Nusa Tenggara knows no bounds. Witness fascinating fauna at one of the world’s best national parks, amble through famed rice fields, or leap all the way out of your comfort zone to the top of an active volcano.

Komodo National Park

Komodo National Park spans 1817 sq km across a constellation of islands – and between them, an astonishing underwater world. On terra firma, Komodo and Rinca islands are home to the famous prehistoric Komodo dragons, or ora, the largest lizards in the world.

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Komodo National Park | ETHAN DANIELS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Jatiluwih Rice Fields

Arresting in their grandeur, the rolling rice terraces of Jatiluwih (which translates to ‘truly marvellous’) are a feat of ancient innovation. Recognised by Unesco for an irrigation system known as subak, rice-growing traditions here date back to the 11th century.

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Jatiluwih rice fields | DUCHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Summit Volcanic Peaks

The climb to see the sunrise from Gunung Batur is Bali’s most popular trek – just one glance and you’ll understand why. On Lombok, brooding and majestic Gunung Rinjani is Indonesia’s second-highest volcano.

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Gunung Rinjani | M. RINANDAR TASYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4FIND YOUR VIBE

Bali packs myriad options to chase paradise. But with so much to offer, deciding where to spend time can feel overwhelming. You’ll find distinctly different energy from region to region, from the densely populated and frenetic enclaves surrounding Kuta, to more relaxed alternatives up-shore in Canggu and inland around Ubud. Glam it up, get centered, or just take some time to chill.

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W Bali – Seminyak | 365_VISUALS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seminyak Sparkle

People wander around Seminyak and ask themselves if they are even in Bali. Of course! In this capital of glitz, expats, locals and visitors alike idle away the hours in its cafes, at ease with the world and secure in their enjoyment of life’s pleasures.

Creative Inspiration in Ubud

The artistic heart of Bali exudes a compelling spiritual appeal. The streets are lined with galleries where artists create. Walk the rice fields to find the perfect spot to ponder life’s endless possibilities. Ubud is a state of mind and a beautiful state of being.

Canggu and Chill

Canggu has recently evolved into an enclave of sandy fun and frolic. Cool-kid expats and digital nomads while away days at beaches like Batu Bolong and a fast-expanding collection of hip cafes and creative restaurants.

Top Experiences

5BITES OF BALI

Bali caters to all taste buds. Culinary capital Seminyak boasts the most independent and diverse eateries. Kerobokan is the go-to for the hottest and best restaurants, plus some superb warungs. Denpasar cafes serve exceptional Balinese and Indonesian food in simple surrounds, while Canggu sees interesting cafes and hip restaurants opening every week. In Ubud is a profusion of creative eateries, many organic and healthful, all delicious.

Spoiled for Choice

Enjoy superb dining on international or Balinese cuisine. Seminyak has the greatest variety of top restaurants – on a 10-minute stroll you can wander the globe.

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Balinese dishes | SPACE_CAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Jimbaran Seafood

Jimbaran’s beachside seafood grills like Warung Ramayana are a don’t-miss evening out, with platters of seafood that arrived fresh that morning to the market just up the beach.

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Jimbaran beach | NATALI GLADO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sizzling Street-Food

Gianyar’s night market is where you’ll score some of the best street food in Bali. Find staples like sate (satays), pisang goreng (fried banana) and babi guling (spit-roast pig).

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sate | RAULBALDEAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6THE LUXE LIFE

Whether you need a total fix for the mind, body and spirit, or simply desire a bit of serenity, Bali has plenty of opportunities to indulge. Unplug at palatial retreats perched above dazzling white sands or in idyllic river valleys. The Balinese massage techniques of stretching, long strokes, skin rolling and palm-and-thumb pressure result in an all-over feeling of calm. If shopping is your favourite form of self-care, Bali’s boutiques are the perfect holiday prescription.

Sybaritic Spas

Spend many happy hours (sometimes days) being massaged, scrubbed, perfumed, pampered, bathed and blissed out at wellness outposts like Ubud’s Taksu Spa.

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Aroma therapy bath | PHOTOSUNNYDAYS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Boutique Shopping Bliss

Some consider Bali a great destination for shopping; for others it’s their destiny. Pick up unique frocks and accessories at designer boutiques like Bamboo Blonde in Seminyak.

Sumptuous Stays

On an island that honours art and serenity, is it any wonder you’ll find some of the world’s finest hotels and resorts? Rest like royalty at blissful havens such as Katamama in Kerobokan.

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Katamana | ZULFAIZAL ROHANI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

7UNDERWATER WONDERLAND

Encircled by magnificent reefs, Bali and Nusa Tenggara have oodles of places to slip on fins and a mask and enter another beautiful world. Scuba diving is a huge draw – there are numerous professional schools and all kinds of courses (from absolute beginner to nitrox specialist). With easy access from beach to reef in many areas, snorkelling is also available.

Snorkelling

Bali has oodles of places where you can slip on fins and a mask and enter another beautiful world. Swim a short distance from shore and see the eerie ghost of a sunken freighter at Tulamben.

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Snorkelling in Bali | ELIZAVETA GALITCKAIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Scuba Diving

Taking the plunge? There are few better places for high-level diving than the Gilis, encircled by coral reefs teeming with life, such as at Meno Wall, and visited by pelagics such as cruising manta rays.

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Diving in the Gilis | FENKIEANDREAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Freediving

Ready for something deeper than snorkelling? Plumb to depths of 30m and beyond on a single breath after taking lessons at Apneista, whose freediving technique takes a nod from yoga and meditation.

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Nest, Gili Meno | WONDERFUL NATURE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8SURFER’S SOJOURN

The azure rollers of the Indian Ocean to build up speed and momentum all the way from the Antarctic, so it’s no surprise that these coastlines have some truly spectacular waves. Surfers buzz around on motorbikes with board racks, looking for the next great break. Waves blown out? Another spot is just five minutes away.

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Padang Padang | HAGEN PRODUCTION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bali

If it’s a month containing the letter ‘r’, go east; during other months, go west to fabled breaks like Padang Padang. Simplicity itself. Bali was the first place in Asia where surfing took off and, like the perfect set, it shows no signs of calming down.

Lombok

The most famous of Lombok’s breaks, Tanjung Desert is an incredibly long ride that barrels over a sharp, shallow reef. If that sounds a little too hardcore, head to the south, where you’ll find dozens of challenging surf breaks east and west of Kuta.

Top Experiences

9ISLAND HOPPING

Nestled between Bali and Lombok, smaller islands boast blissful village vibes. The Gili Islands, off Lombok’s northwest shores, offer a wealth of creative eateries, water activities, and a heady nightlife buzz. To Bali’s east, Nusa Lembongan is a scene of sensational sunsets and surf. Hop over to tiny Nusa Ceningan via the iconic bridge. On untrammelled Nusa Penida, waves crash into soaring cliffs for a stunning sight.

The Gilis

Cosmopolitan Gili T has a raucous party scene and plenty of upscale dining and accommodation. Gili Air blends buzz and bliss, while Gili Meno has the most local character.

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Beach bar, Gili Air | SUN_SHINEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nusa Lembongan

Laid-back vibes and beaches were once the domain of surfers, but Lembongan’s leveled up with boutique stays and classy bar bites. The white-sand shoreline promises epic sunsets.

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Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang | STEVE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida’s allure is finally catching on. The biggest of the three Nusa Islands, it has dramatic cliffside vistas and a sleepy rhythm of life that beckons deeper exploration.

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Nusa Penida | DIEGO DE MUNARI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

10 CHASING WATERFALLS

An excursion to one of Bali and Nusa Tenggara’s myriad waterfalls typically takes a trek, and rewards the adventurous. Many are accessible thanks to well-trodden walkways and stairs, while others are more difficult to access through swathes of jungle and a descent of slippery steps. Keep your eyes peeled for the words air terjun, the Balinese term for waterfall – it’s often shown on signs.

Air Terjun Tanggedu

Every step of the three-hour trek to Sumba’s best waterfall is worth it: two rivers run through age-old layered limestone cliffs, converging into terraced cascades that flow into multiple pools.

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Air Terjun Tanggedu | HARIADI MAHSYAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Air Terjun Banyu Wana Amertha

These Insta-worthy waterfalls are among Bali’s best. A 500m trail through a coffee plantation leads to three separate cascades, their environs festooned by colourful shrubs and bamboo huts and bridges.

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Air Terjun Banyu Wana Amertha | OLGA GAURI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Air Terjun Sindang Gila

A 20-minute walk from Senaru, this stunning pair of falls is among many on Rinjani’s northern slopes. Its trail runs along a creek – edge close to get pummeled by the 40m cascade.

Top Experiences

11 NEVER-ENDING NIGHTS

Bali’s clubs draw acolytes from across Southeast Asia. Kuta is all raw energy and a mad mix of party-goers enjoying the hedonism. At Seminyak’s beach clubs, the cocktails taste better when you can hear the surf and watch sunset segue into the twinkle of stars. And on Gili Trawangan, beachside parties rage on until dawn.

Sunrise over Trawangan

Gili Trawangan is a stunner by daylight, but see it at dawn after a night of partying. Venues like Tir na Nog, where parties started as beach raves, retain a raw spirit.

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Bartender on Gili Trawangan | RAMANTARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seminyak after Sunset

Amid the post-sunset glow and pulsing house beats, Seminyak nights start at stylish cafes and bars like La Favela, where dinner tables get cleared to make way for the DJ.

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Waiting for sunset, Seminyak | ASIA TRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Clubbing in Kuta

Sometime before dawn, Kuta’s harder, rawer clubs such as Sky Garden Lounge suck you in like black holes, spitting you out hours later into an unsteady daylight, shattered but happy.

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Kuta nightlife | AGUNG PARAMESWARA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

12 MARKET MADNESS

Commerce meets community at bustling markets across Bali and Nusa Tenggara. Be it a dedicated centre or a street-side, open-air affair, it’s customary for shoppers to haggle over handicrafts, artworks, clothing, souvenirs, textiles, home furnishings…the list goes on. Lively to behold and thrilling to try your hand at, the bargains can be hard to resist. And building your negotiation chops? That’s priceless.

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Love Anchor | MARLON TROTTMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Love Anchor Bazaar

Set in an atmospheric joglo complex, Canggu’s hippest emporium for ethical, handmade fashion hosts an open-air weekend bazaar. You can snap up standard Balinese souvenirs and one-of-a-kind artisan wares alike.

Sukawati Market

At this spirited, sprawling produce market, you’ll see locals bargaining for the flowers, baskets, fruits and knick-knacks used in temple offerings. Across the road, another market sells clothing and curios.

Lombok Handicraft Centre

Take a stroll around this centre, where a variety of small shops sell a wealth of local handicrafts. Score wooden masks, pottery, textiles, jewelry and more from across Nusa Tenggara.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Rupiah (Rp)

Language

Bahasa Indonesia, Balinese and Sasak (Lombok). Islands of Nusa Tenggara also have their own languages.

Visas

Visas are easily obtained on arrival, but can be a hassle to arrange if you hope to stay longer than 30 days.

Money

ATMs are common in most towns but not in villages. Credit cards are accepted at more expensive establishments.

Mobile Phones

Cheap local SIM cards (from 5000Rp with no calling credit) are sold everywhere. Data speeds of 3G and faster are the norm across Bali and Lombok. Any modern mobile phone will work.

Time

Indonesia Central Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours)

When to Go

03-climate-bal18

High Season (Jul, Aug & Dec)

A Accommodation rates increase by 50% or more.

A Many hotels are booked far ahead; the best restaurants need to be booked in advance.

A Christmas and New Year are equally expensive and crowded.

Shoulder (May, Jun & Sep)

A Coincides with the best weather (drier, less humid).

A You may find a good room deal, and last-minute bookings are possible.

A Best time for many activities, including diving.

Low Season (Jan–Apr, Oct & Nov)

A Deals everywhere, good airfares.

A Rainy season – though rainfall is never excessive.

A Can do most activities except volcano treks.

Useful Websites

Bali Advertiser (www.baliadvertiser.biz) Bali’s expat journal with insider tips and good columnists.

Bali Discovery (www.balidiscovery.com) Weekly summary of news, plus hotel deals.

The Beat Bali (http://thebeatbali.com) Comprehensive listings for nightlife, music and events.

Lombok Guide (www.thelombokguide.com) Comprehensive site covering main areas of interest.

Gili Life (www.facebook.com/Gililife) Local culture and news.

Sumba Information (www.sumba-information.com) Vast compendium of information about Sumba in Nusa Tenggara.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

The international access code can be any of three versions; try all three.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs: Bali

Budget: Less than US$80

A Room at guesthouse or homestay: less than US$50

A Cheap food and drink, meals: under US$5

A Beaches: free

Midrange: US$80–250

A Room at midrange hotel: US$50–150

A Great night out eating and drinking: from US$20

A Spa treatment: US$10–40

Top end: More than US$250

A Room at top-end hotel or resort: over US$150

A Lavish evening out: over US$40

A Car and driver per day: US$60

Daily Costs: Lombok

Budget: Less than US$25

A Dorm at a hostel: US$7–10

A Food and drink at a warung: under US$5

A Snorkel rental: US$3

Midrange: US$25–100

A Bungalow with air-con: US$20–60

A Night out eating and drinking: US$20

A Massage: US$7–15

Top end: More than US$100

A Room at top-end hotel or resort: over US$100

A Fine dining with wine: over US$25

A Car and driver per day: US$60

Opening Hours

Typical opening hours are as follows:

Banks 8am–2pm Monday to Thursday, 8am–noon Friday, 8am–11am Saturday

Government offices 8am–3pm Monday to Thursday, 8am–noon Friday (although these are not standardised)

Post offices 8am–2pm Monday to Friday, longer in tourist centres

Restaurants & cafes 8am–10pm daily

Shops & services catering to visitors 9am–8pm or later daily

Arriving in Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Ngurah Rai International Airport, Bali A taxi to Kuta is 80,000Rp, to Seminyak it’s 130,000Rp and to Ubud it’s 300,000Rp.

Lombok International Airport A taxi is 150,000Rp to Kuta, 180,000Rp to Mataram, 300,000Rp to Senggigi and 350,000Rp to Bangsal.

El Tari Airport, West Timor Taxis from the airport to Kupang cost 70,000Rp. An ojek (motorcycle taxi) will cost 30,000Rp.

Gilimanuk, West Bali A bus trip from the depot close to the ferry port to Denpasar’s Ubung terminal costs 45,000Rp; bemos (minivans) charge 5000Rp more.

For much more, see getting around

First Time Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Make certain your passport will be valid for six months after your date of arrival in Indonesia. This regulation is strictly enforced.

A Download Bali mapping data to the Google Maps app so you can navigate with your phone offline. In Nusa Tenggara printed maps are more useful.

A Inform your ATM and credit card issuers of your trip so you won’t get locked out.

What to Pack

A Plug converter for Indonesia

A Insect spray and sunscreen; both are essential but can be hard to find or expensive locally

A Small umbrella

A A water bottle

Top Tips for Your Trip

A At the beach, don’t swim near any water flowing into the ocean. You don’t want to know what’s in that water. And don’t swim anywhere at all unless you’ve checked conditions carefully – strong rips can be deadly.

A Use the handy website Refill My Bottle ( www.refillmybottle.com ) to identify hotels and restaurants where you can refill your bottle with safe drinking water for free or for a negligible fee.

A Travel slowly; the people of this region are relaxed, so you can be too.

What to Wear

A Women topless at the beach or pool is offensive. Wandering around in a bathing suit elsewhere is not acceptable.

A Casual wear, shorts, cottons, short-sleeve shirts, sandals etc are all fine during the day.

A At fine-dining restaurants you should dress more formally (long pants for men; dresses, skirts or long pants for women).

A Some nightspots ban men in singlets.

A Don’t wear clothing featuring alcohol branding – many locals find this offensive.

Sleeping

Bali and Lombok have a huge range of accommodation for any budget; options on Nusa Tenggara are more limited. If visiting in August or during the Christmas/New Year period, book well in advance.

Homestays & Guesthouses Family-run accommodation gives a true taste of local life.

Hostels Geared towards divers and surfers in Lombok and the Gilis.

Hotels Can range from simple thatch bungalows by the beach to boutique bungalows, or multistory buildings, set in lush gardens with a pool and restaurant.

Resorts This region (and Bali in particular) has some of the world’s best and most affordable resorts.

Villas Often come with private pool, transport and maid service, making for a sybaritic stay.

Cash

The unit of currency is the rupiah (Rp). Coins of 50Rp, 100Rp, 200Rp, 500Rp and 1000Rp are in circulation. Notes come in 1000Rp (rare), 2000Rp, 5000Rp, 10,000Rp, 20,000Rp, 50,000Rp and 100,000Rp denominations.

Bargaining

Bargaining can be an enjoyable part of shopping in this region. Try following these steps:

A Have some idea of the item’s worth.

A Establish a starting price – ask the seller for their price.

A Your first offer can be from one-third to two-thirds of that price.

A If you don’t like the price, walk – the vendor may go lower.

A When you name a price, you’re committed – you must buy if your offer is accepted.

Tipping

Restaurants Tipping a set percentage is not expected, but if service is good, 5000Rp or 10% or more is appropriate.

Services Hand cash directly to individuals (drivers, porters, people giving you a massage, bringing you beer at the beach etc); 5000Rp to 10,000Rp or 10% to 20% of the total is generous.

Hotels Most midrange and all top-end hotels add 21% to the bill for tax and service.

Spas Not mandatory, though 5% to 10% is appreciated.

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Pantai Seminyak | SONY HERDIANA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Etiquette

Indonesia is a pretty relaxed place, but there are a few rules of etiquette.

Body language Use both hands when handing somebody something. Don’t show displays of affection in public or talk with your hands on your hips (it’s seen as a sign of aggression).

Clothing Avoid showing a lot of skin, although many local men wear shorts. Don’t go topless if you’re a woman at any pool or beach.

Photography Before taking photos of someone, ask – or mime – for approval.

Places of worship Be respectful in sacred places. Remove shoes and dress modestly when visiting temples and mosques.

Eating

Bali is a splendid destination for food. The local cuisine, whether truly Balinese or influenced by the rest of Indonesia and Asia, draws from the bounty of fresh local foods and is rich with spices and flavours. Savour this fare at roadside warungs (simple local cafes) or top-end restaurants, and for tastes further afield, you can choose from restaurants offering some of the best dining in the region.

Food in Nusa Tenggara isn’t quite as creative, but you’ll have no trouble sourcing tasty meals. In Lombok and the Gilis, opt for simply prepared, freshly caught fish and seafood.

What’s New

Here’s the scoop on what’s new and in the works on Bali and Nusa Tenggara. To every digital nomad’s delight, a long-term visa looms in the very near future. Gear up for fresh-on-the-scene day clubs, a beach-bound bike path, newfangled access to falls, and a cashless bus system to hop around even easier.

Five-Year Visa

To revive the country’s pandemic-pummeled economy, Indonesian officials have pledged a new five-year visa, available sometime in 2021, that will enable foreigners to live and work in the country without a work permit.

Pura Lempuyang

Perched on a hilltop on the side of Gunung Lempuyang, this temple’s status as a tourism hotspot is a recent phenomenon, courtesy of safety issues associated with visiting the similarly sacred Pura Besikah. The complex comprises seven temples on the steep mountain slope and is one of the most important religious sites in east Bali.

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Pura Lempuyang | DVAD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Digital Nomad Digs

Community-driven working and living spaces like Outsite in Canggu are making it ever easier for location-independent entrepreneurs and creatives to dwell productively in paradise.

Savaya

This modern mega day club at the bottom of the Bukit Peninsula is Bali’s hottest place to dance to bumping house and hip-hop beats. Saddle up under the geometric architecture of the imposing outdoor bar and enjoy views of waves crashing into the jagged cliffs below.

Munduk’s Majestic Waterfalls

Development has created easier access to sets of once-secluded cascades such as Banyu Wana Amertha. A visit to these falls, in the island’s central mountains, is an adventure through lush rainforest and offers a glimpse into a truly local way of life.

Teman Bus System

The new Trans Metro Dewata System, nicknamed the Teman Bus System, commenced its cashless service in September 2020 along four corridors: Kuta-Tabanan, Denpasar-Ngurah Rai International Airport, Sanur-North Kuta, and Denpasar-Ubud.

Freediving

Holding one’s breath while diving is becoming a popular alternative to scuba diving and snorkelling, especially near Jemeluk in east Bali and on the Gili Islands.

Denpasar Bike Path

In November 2020, a new 25km cycling path connecting Denpasar to Sanur Beach was established to encourage more exercise during the COVID-19 pandemic. Originating from the Dharma Negara Alaya Cultural Centre, it’s on track to be completed in 2021.

Mandalika Resort Area

Construction on the US$3 billion Mandalika Resort Area near Kuta in south Lombok is now in full force, with plans to turn it into a sandy playground for the rich and famous.

Gili Gede

Fast boat connections to Bali and Gili Trawangan and some of the best snorkelling in the region have contributed to the growing popularity of this island off Lombok’s southwestern peninsula.

Kerewe Beach

Affordable accommodation options have opened in this well-known celebrity hideaway spot in West Sumba, opening up its world-class beaches and surf breaks to all.

LISTEN, WATCH AND FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia/bali/articles.

Bali Discovery (www.balidiscovery.com) The weekly online news report by Jack Daniels is a must-read of events in Bali.

The Bali Sun (https://thebalisun.com) News on Bali tourism, local life and current events.

Coconuts Bali (https://coconuts.co/bali) Daily, hyperlocal news source that translates quirky stories from bahasa to English.

The Yak (www.theyakmag.com) Glossy, cheeky mag celebrating the expat swells of Seminyak and Ubud.

The Beat Bali (http://thebeatbali.com) Website, publication and podcast with extensive nightlife and cultural listings.

FAST FACTS

Food trend: Super-fresh, global-fusion brunches

Number of Komodo dragons: 6000

Number of lakes on Bali: 4

Pop: 4.3 million (Bali), 9.7 million (Nusa Tenggara)

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Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Pasola, February & March

Galungan, varies

Indonesian Independence Day, 17 August

Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, October

Bali Arts Festival, June to July

February

The rainy season pours on and Bali starts to hum again after the January pause following the holiday high season. Accommodation bargains abound at this time.

z Bau Nyale Festival

The ritual harvesting of nyale (sea worms) takes place on Pantai Seger near Lombok’s Kuta. The evening begins with poetry readings, continues with gamelan music performances and carries on until the dawn, when the nyale start appearing. Can also be held in March.

z Pasola

Held annually in Lamboya, this West Sumbanese tournament between two teams of spear-wielding, ikat-clad horsemen is one of the most extravagant (and bloodiest) harvest festivals in Asia. Also held in Wanokaka in March.

March

As the rainy season comes to an end, there’s a lull in the crowds – this is low season for tourism, especially around Nyepi when even many non-Balinese flee the silence.

z Nyepi (Day of Silence)

Bali’s major Hindu festival, Nyepi celebrates the end of the old year and the start of the next. It’s marked by inactivity – a strategy to convince evil spirits that Bali is uninhabited so they’ll leave the island alone for another year. For the Balinese, it’s a day for meditation and introspection. The rules are more relaxed for foreigners as long as you don’t leave your residence or hotel. Nyepi is actually a fantastic time to be in Bali – there are colourful festivals the night before, and there’s something inspiring about being forced to do nothing.

April

The islands dry out after the rainy season and there’s a small but noticeable uptick in visitors. This is another month when insiders recommend visiting.

z Bali Spirit Festival

A hugely popular yoga, dance and music festival from the people behind the Yoga Barn in Ubud. There are more than 100 workshops and concerts, plus a market and more; tack on one of the pre- or post-retreats or other events to get more mileage from the experience. It’s usually held in early April but may begin in late March.

5 Ubud Food Festival

At this three-day foodie festival, diverse and delicious Indonesian cuisine takes centre stage. Events include cooking demonstrations, workshops, forums, markets, food tours and film screenings.

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Ceremony at Pura Tirta Empul | ARTEM BELIAIKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

June

The airport is getting busier, but much of what makes May a good month to visit also applies in June. Crowds of surfers and sun chasers descend upon the Bukit breaks.

z Bali Arts Festival

This is the premier event on Bali’s cultural calendar. Based at the Taman Wedhi Budaya arts centre in Denpasar, the festival is a great way to see traditional Balinese dances such as the Legong, Gambuh, Kecak, Barong and Baris, as village-based groups compete fiercely for local pride. Held mid-June to mid-July.

July

After August, July is the second-busiest month for visitors to Bali. Don’t expect to have your pick of places to stay, but do plan to enjoy the energy of crowds on holiday.

z Bali Kite Festival

In south Bali scores of kites soar overhead much of the year. Often huge (10m-plus), they fly at altitudes that worry pilots. There’s a spiritual connection to their flight: it is believed the kites urge the gods to provide abundant harvests. During this festival the skies fill with huge creations.

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Bali Kite Festival, Sanur | ZANARIAH SALAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Surf Contests

The exact names and sponsorships change every year but you’ll find top international surf contests being held throughout July or August down at Padang Padang Beach. Peak tourist season coincides with peak wave season.

August

The busiest time on Bali sees an ever-increasing number of visitors each year. Book your room and tables far, far in advance and expect crowds.

z Indonesian Independence Day

Celebrated across Indonesia, 17 August is the day Indonesia’s independence from the Dutch was declared in 1945. Flags fly high and you’ll encounter legions of school kids marching with great enthusiasm on Bali’s main roads. Traffic is snarled (as it is days before for rehearsals) and lots of fireworks are shot off.

3 Ubud Village Jazz Festival

Annual two-day jazz festival featuring an international line-up of performers.

October

The skies darken more often with seasonal rains, but mostly the weather is pleasant and the islanders bustle about their normal business. Outside of Ubud, crowds are few.

z Ubud Writers & Readers Festival

One of the country’s premier literary events, this festival hosts scores of writers and readers from around the world in a celebration of writing – especially that which touches on Bali. Each year there is a theme and famous authors whose works address the topic attend.

5 Bali Vegan Festival

Aiming to inspire converts to the vegan lifestyle, this three-day festival includes talks, cooking demonstrations, workshops and films in Ubud and Canguu.

GALUNGAN & KUNINGAN

One of Bali’s major festivals, Galungan celebrates the death of a legendary tyrant called Mayadenawa. Celebrations culminate with the Kuningan festival, when the Balinese say thanks and goodbye to the gods.

Every village in Bali celebrates Galungan and Kuningan in grand style, and visitors are welcome to join in.

The 210-day wuku (or pawukon) calendar is used to determine festival dates. Dates for future Galungan and Kuningan celebrations are as follows:

November

It’s getting wetter, but not really so wet that you can’t enjoy the islands to the fullest. Crowd-wise, this is usually a quiet month, which means you can find great accommodation bargains.

z Perang Topat

This ‘rice war’ on Lombok is fun. It takes place at Pura Lingsar just outside Mataram and involves a costumed parade, and Hindus and Wektu Telu pelting balls of ketupat (sticky rice) at each other. Can also be held in December.

December

Visitors rain on Bali ahead of the Christmas and New Year holidays. Most hotels and restaurants are booked out and everybody is busy; in the south, the energy can seem manic.

z Peresean

Martial arts Lombok-style. Competitors, stripped to the waist, spar with rattan sticks and cowhide shields. Contests are typically held in Mataram late in the month, but you can catch bouts on just about any major holiday.

Itineraries

Best of Bali

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1 WEEK

Seven days will fly by on this trip that covers Bali’s top-drawer sights.

Start at a beachside hotel in Seminyak, Kerobokan or Canggu; shop the streets and spend time at the beach. Enjoy a seafood dinner on Jimbaran Bay as part of a day trip to the monkey-filled temple at Ulu Watu.

In the east, take the coast road to wild beaches like the one near Pura Masceti, followed by the town of Klungkung (Semarapura), once the royal seat of Bali’s most important kingdom. Head north up to Sideman, which combines rice terraces with lush river valleys and cloud-shrouded mountains. Then go west to Ubud, the crowning glory on any itinerary.

To spoil yourself, stay in one of Ubud’s many hotels with views across rice fields and rivers. Sample the offerings at a spa before you try one of the myriad great restaurants. Bali’s rich culture is most celebrated and most accessible in Ubud and you’ll be captivated by nightly dance performances. Check out local craft studios, including the woodcarvers of Mas. Hike through the surrounding rice fields to river valleys, taking a break in museums bursting with paintings.

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Pura Taman Saraswati, Ubud | MACIEJ MATLAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Pantai Seminyak | ASIATRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Bali at a Slow Pace

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3 Weeks

Find accommodation close to the beach in Kerobokan. Be sure to get to the trendy restaurants and cafes of Canggu before you leave this part of south Bali behind. Maybe you can learn how to surf, or at least brush up on your skills, before you head south to Bingin and its cliff-side inns overlooking the surf. Make the short drive down to Bukit Peninsula’s spiritual centre (and monkey home) Pura Luhur Ulu Watu and explore the secluded beaches at the bottom of Bali, such as Green Bowl Beach.

Take a trip through Denpasar and stop at the excellent local restaurants and museum. Next, Bali’s ancient rice terraces will exhaust your abilities to describe green. Sample these in a drive up to the terraces of Jatiluwih followed by the lyrical Pura Luhur Batukau. Make your way over the mountains via the Antosari Road, pausing at a remote hotel on the way. Head west to Pemuteran, where the hotels and resorts define relaxation. Dive or snorkel nearby Pulau Menjangan in Bali Barat National Park. It’s renowned for its coral and sheer 30m wall.

Lovina is a good break on a route around the coast to Tulamben, where scores of people explore the shattered hulk of a WWII freighter underwater. Get some serious chill time on the Amed Coast before the short jaunt to Tirta Gangga and hikes through rice fields and up jungle-clad hills to remote temples. Continue to Padangbai and then take back roads to Ubud. Find your favourite cafe and let the world wander past, or rid yourself of travel kinks at a spa. You might consider staying at one of the iconic family homestays, taking gentle walks through rice fields by day and marvelling at dance performances at night.

When you’re ready and rested, get a fast boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. This little island has its own buzz, with a string of hotels – from basic to semiposh – lining its sands. It’s a timeless travellers’ scene with a backdrop of excellent surfing and splendid snorkelling and diving.

Itineraries

Total Bali & Lombok

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3 Weeks

You’ll visit six islands and countless beaches on a trip that takes you to the most interesting sites and places across Bali, Lombok and the Gilis.

Begin your trip at Bingin. Settle back in the sand and let the jet lag vanish. Then move to Canggu for Bali’s hippest scene. Transit through Denpasar for a purely Balinese lunch and head up the hill to Ubud to get a taste of traditional Balinese culture over two or three days. Next, visit the Jatiluwih Rice Fields, centuries old rice terraces that have received Unesco World Heritage status in recognition of their ancient rice-growing culture.

Next, head west to the village of Munduk, which looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and enjoy waterfalls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous ribbons of rice paddies lining the hills. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau and consider a trek up Bali’s second-highest mountain, Gunung Batukau. Recover with some chill-out time on popular Balian Beach, just west.

Next, bounce across the waves from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, the island hiding in the shadow of Nusa Penida. The latter is visible from much of the south and east – it makes a good day trip. Take in the amazing vistas from its cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life.

Head to the Gili Islands on the direct boat from Nusa Lembongan for more tranquil time circumnavigating the three islands above and below the idyllic sapphire waters fringing them. Take a boat to Senggigi, but ignore the resorts and head south. Still off the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok’s Kuta has stunning beaches and surfing to reward the intrepid. The seldom-driven back roads of the interior will thrill the adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn about the amazing local handicrafts. Many of these roads travel through the foothills of sacred Gunung Rinjani, the volcanic peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley.

Itineraries

Gili Islands in One Week

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1 Week

These three little dots of white sand off Lombok can easily occupy your entire trip, with their top-class options for diving, dining, partying and sunbathing. The ideal place to get to grips with island life is Gili Air, where the main beachfront strip is perfect tropical lounging territory. You can while away a day or two doing nothing but chilling with a book, taking a cooling dip, perfecting your asanas at a yoga school or feasting on inexpensive fresh seafood.

Next up is Trawangan, where there’s much more action. The perfect day here could start with a morning dive at a site such as Shark Point, followed by a healthy vegan lunch and an afternoon snooze. Then take a gentle stroll round the sandy lanes of the island, slipping in a sunset cocktail on the west coast. After dinner, feel the beat at one of Trawangan’s parties.

The final stop is Gili Meno, where, once you’ve secured the perfect place to stay (including at some new upscale choices), there’s little to do except ponder the sheer desert-isle-ness of the place. If you can drag yourself away from the beach, try snorkelling out to the underwater sculpture Nest or egret-spotting on the inland lake.

Itineraries

Surfing Bali

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2 weeks

Ease into a tour of Bali’s best surf in the Kuta area. The surf break Halfway Kuta is the best scene for beginners; Legian Beach has more powerful breaks. North of Kerobokan, on the northern extremity of the bay, Batu Bolong (often called Canggu) has a nice beach with light-coloured sand and a chilled party scene.

Next, head west to classic surfer hang-out Balian Beach, where there are a few peaks near the mouth of Sungai Balian (Balian River). Further up the south coast of western Bali is a soft left called Medewi, a point break that can give a long ride right into the river mouth.

End the circuit in south Bali, where surfing sparked tourism on the island. Balangan is a fast left over a shallow reef; Bingin has short but perfect left-hand barrels. Padang Padang’s super-shallow, left-hand reef break is a very demanding break that only works over about 6ft from mid- to high tide (if you can’t surf tubes, backhand or forehand, don’t go out). Ulu Watu, the most famous surfing spot in Bali, has about seven different breaks (observe where other surfers paddle out and follow them).

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Plan Your Trip

Activities

This region is an incredible place to get outside and play – enjoy exceptional diving and surfing, and hikes through rice fields or up volcanoes. Indoors, you can learn to cook local meals, make yourself a souvenir or bend into new shapes in the pursuit of bliss.

Best Experiences

Top Surfing

In Bali, surfing at world famous Ulu Watu is an experience that every serious surfer needs to tackle once. Its surrounds, including Padang Padang and Bingin, are great too. In Lombok, remote Tanjung Desert is home to a left-handed tube that has been described as the best wave in the world.

Top Diving & Snorkelling

Pulau Menjangan on Bali is spectacular, whether you’re just drifting or following a wall. Tulamben’s sunken WWII freighter and coral-encrusted reefs are also popular spots. Jemeluk in Amed is accruing a reputation as a freediving hotspot. Southwest Lombok has healthy reefs teeming with marine life and the waters off the Gili Islands are famed for their extraordinary coral and marine life.

Top Hiking

On Bali, Munduk’s lush, spice-scented, waterfall-riven landscape is a stunner. There are beautiful walks lasting from one hour to one day in Ubud and its rice-field surrounds. Tirta Gangga is great for emerald rice terraces, gorgeous views and temples. On Lombok, communities, hotels and businesses are still recovering from the 2018 earthquakes, but the climb up 3726m-high Gunung Rinjani and the Sembalun Valley on its slopes draws hikers from around the world.

Courses

Opportunities for specialised courses and workshops abound in Bali, where you can learn everything from woodcarving and batik to jewellery making and traditional dance. These two centres in Ubud are worth checking out for a range of cultural activities:

ARMA Classes in painting, batik, woodcarving, dance, Hinduism and architecture.

Pondok Pekak Library & Learning Centre Huge range of courses, from dance and music to woodcarving and Bahasa Indonesia.

Cooking

If you want to carry on enjoying the tastes of Indonesia after you go home, Bali has several cooking schools where you can learn everything from how to shop in the markets and the basics of Indonesian cuisine to advanced cooking techniques. Many are taught by chefs with reputations well beyond Bali and you get to eat what you make! Here are some of the best.

Southwest Beaches

Warung Eny Learn how to cook Balinese dishes from the owner, Eny, at her tiny warung (food stall) in Kerobokan.

South Bali & the Islands

Bumbu Bali Cooking School Classes run by long-time resident and cookbook author Heinz von Holzen from his excellent South Bali restaurant.

Balinese Cooking Class Beachfront Balinese cooking in Sanur.

Ubud

Casa Luna Cooking School Half-day courses cover cooking techniques, ingredients and the cultural background of the Balinese kitchen.

Balinese Farm Cooking School Vegetarian, vegan and omnivore courses taught by locals in a village north of Ubud.

East Bali

Bali Asli Restaurant and cooking school near Amlapura that combines spectacular views with some of the best food in Bali.

Smiling Buddha Restaurant Organic Balinese dishes in Aas.

North Bali

Warung Bambu Market trips and classic Balinese dishes in Pemaron, near Lovina.

Santai Warung Excellent Indonesian restaurant that offers cooking classes in Pemuteran.

Cycling

Cyclists are increasingly common on Bali’s busy roads. The main advantage of touring Bali by bike is the quality of the experience – you can be totally immersed in the environment, hearing the wind rustling in the rice paddies or the sound of a gamelan practising while catching the scent of flowers. The island’s back roads more than make up for the traffic-clogged streets of the south.

Some people are put off cycling in a tropical location, but when you’re riding on level ground or downhill, the breeze really moderates the heat.

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Cyclist, Lombok | AAABBBCCC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bali

Denpasar, south through Sanur in the east, and Kerobokan to Kuta in the west suffer from lots of traffic and narrow roads. But across the rest of the island you can find many rides that reward with lush tropical beauty. For something really different, try the still-lonely lanes of Nusa Penida.

Popular tours start high in the central mountains at places such as Kintamani or Bedugul. The tour company takes you to the top and then you ride down relatively quiet mountain roads, soaking up the lush scenery, village culture and tropical scents.

The cost including bicycle, gear and lunch is US$40 to US$80. Transport to/from south Bali and Ubud hotels is usually included; hotel pick-up in Kuta can be as early as 6.30am. Tours usually run from 8.30am to 4pm and involve a lot of coasting and stopping. Not all companies provide helmets; make sure yours does.

Companies to consider:

Archipelago Adventure ( icon-phonegif %0851 0208 1769, mobile [phone]; www.archipelago-adventure.com; adult/child from US$55/45) Offers a huge and interesting range of tours. On Bali, there are rides around Jatiluwih and Danau Buyan, and mountain biking on trails from Kintamani.

Bali Bike-Baik Tours ( icon-phonegif %0361-978052; www.balibike.com; tours from 500,000Rp) Tours run downhill from Kintamani. The emphasis is on cultural immersion and there are frequent stops in tiny villages and at rice farms.

Bali Eco Cycling ( icon-phonegif %0361-975557; www.baliecocycling.com; adult/child from US$50/30) Tours start at Kintamani and take small roads through lush scenery south to Ubud; other options focus on rural culture.

Banyan Tree Cycling Tours Enjoy day-long tours of remote villages in the hills above Ubud. It’s locally owned by Bagi and very popular. The tours emphasise interaction with villagers; there is also an extreme cycling tour.

Bung Bung Adventure Biking Based in Tirta Gangga, these tours follow back roads in fecund east Bali that are ignored by other tours.

C.Bali Offers excellent bike tours in and around Gunung Batur and the lake. The antidote to cookie-cutter bike tours.

ART & DESIGN CLASSES IN UBUD

Ubud is a veritable hotbed of cultural workshops and courses and enrolling in one is a great way to take a piece of Bali home with you. Check out the following course providers:

Nirvana Batik Course Batik techniques taught over one to five days.

Studio Perak Balinese-style silversmithing.

Ida Bagus Anom Traditional mask carving, south of town.

Wayan Karja Painting Learn painting and drawing classes from a celebrated local artist.

Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts Center Textile-appreciation courses run by a well-respected gallery.

Lombok

Lombok is good for touring by bicycle. In the populated areas, the roads are flat and well paved, and the traffic across the island is less chaotic than on Bali.

East of Mataram are several attractions that would make a good day trip: south to Banyumulek via Gunung Pengsong and then back to Mataram, for example. Some coastal roads have hills and curves like a roller coaster. Try going north from Senggigi to Pemenang along the spectacular paved road, and then (if you feel energetic) return via the steep climb over the Pusuk Pass.

Bicycles are available for hire on the Gili Islands as a means to get around; Trawangan is best suited for exploration.

Equipment

Serious cyclists will want to pack personal gear they consider essential. Bali Bike Hire stocks top-end gear not found elsewhere. Casual riders can rent bikes and helmets in many locations but they are often in poor condition; when in doubt ask at your accommodation.

Diving & Snorkelling

With their warm water, extensive coral reefs and abundant marine life, Bali and Nusa Tenggara offer excellent diving and snorkelling adventures. Reliable dive schools and operators throughout the region (particularly in Bali, in the Gilis and in Labuan Bajo in Flores) can train complete beginners or arrange challenging trips that will satisfy the most experienced divers.

Snorkelling gear is available near all the most accessible spots but it’s worthwhile bringing your own and checking out some of the less-visited parts of the coasts.

Where to Dive & Snorkel

Bali

Bali’s most spectacular diving and snorkelling locations draw people from near and far. Skilled divers will enjoy the challenges of Nusa Penida, as well as the schools of manta rays and 2.5m sunfish, but novices and snorkellers will be in over their heads. Spectacular 30m walls await off Pulau Menjangan and are good for divers and snorkellers of all skills and ages. Tulamben, with its sunken WWII freighter, is another site for both divers and snorkellers with good swimming skills.

TOP CYCLING SPOTS IN BALI

You can’t get too lost on an island as small as Bali. The following are areas good for exploring on two wheels.

Lombok

Southwest Lombok boasts healthy reefs teeming with marine life. Divers and snorkellers need good swimming skills here.

Gili Islands

Divers and snorkellers of all skills and ages head here to enjoy all types of diving and snorkelling in beautiful waters. Some sites may require advanced skills.

Komodo & Rinca Islands

These isolated islands have some of the most exhilarating scuba diving in Indonesia, if not the world. It’s a region swept by strong currents and cold upswells, created by the convergence of the warmer Flores Sea with the cooler Selat Sumba (Sumba Strait). These conditions create a rich plankton soup that feeds an astonishing variety of marine life. Manta rays and whales are drawn here during their migration from the Indian Ocean to the South China Sea, dolphins are common in the waters between Komodo and Flores and you’re likely to spot white-tip and reef sharks more fearful of you than you are of them. Coral is almost pristine. Liveaboards ply these waters between April and September when diving is at its finest. Dive shops in Labuan Bajo on Flores can organise trips and equipment hire.

Sumbawa

Good reefs with a plunging wall can be found all around Pulau Moyo.

Alor Archipelago

With unspoiled reefs and vibrant soft and hard coral intact, diving Alor is a special experience. You’ll encounter wall dives, slopes, caves, pinnacles, reefs and impressive muck diving. For more information, see here.

Equipment

If you are not picky, you’ll find all the equipment you need in Bali, the Gilis and Lombok (the quality, size and age of the equipment can vary). If you bring your own, you can usually get a discount on your dive.