Over the summer, I had the pleasure of traveling around Iceland, which has become an annual trip for me in the last few years. To my surprise, I always get to experience something new each time. East Iceland has a lot of hidden gems, so don’t skip out on making time for this area.
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Living in the Icelandic Highlands
In some of my other episodes about the Icelandic highlands, you might have heard me say that no one lives in this area of the country even though it consists of about 80% of the land mass of Iceland. The reason for this is that the Icelandic highlands do not have a lot of fertile land, they are higher up in elevation which means it can be much colder and the weather is even more variable there. Well, there was a time when some people did live in the highlands.


Saenautasel's Fascinating History
Starting in 1843, some Icelanders chose to live among the gorgeous landscapes of Jökuldalsheiði heath, which is known as Sænautasel farm. In 1875, the ferocious eruption of the Askja caldera forced the abandonment of this farm. But five years later, the former inhabitants returned and rebuilt.

Over the years volcanic onslaughts and other natural disruptions challenged those living there but they persisted. Like many houses in Iceland during this time the buildings were made of turf. Turf houses are literally made of sod, turf and stone stacked in an ingenious way to provide shelter and insulation from harsh Icelandic weather.

One of the major downfalls of living in a turf house is that they need to be reconstructed because the material can wear away due to the elements. Granted, that happens with most materials, but it can happen faster with turf. So, the turf houses underwent several reconstructions but never lost their charm. 1943 was the last year that anyone lived full-time in these houses. The allure of the more modern world beckoned people down from the highlands.


The Rebirth of Saenautasel Turf Houses
The most recent rebirth of the turf houses was in 1992 by descendants of the last residents. A few of houses were turned into a living museum and lovely café. I visited Sænautasel on a rainy and foggy day with my Icelandic friend Hrafndís Bara, who grew up in East Iceland.

After parking in the lot, we were greeted by Icelandic sheep at the gate to enter. Most sheep here are not fond of people but you can tell that these sheep have grown accustomed to interacting with humans. They acted more like dogs than sheep and it was cute. Since it was summer, the first thing I noticed was how lush and green the roofs of the turf houses look.


A Cozy Cafe in the Icelandic Highlands
The first house we entered was the café and I was enamored with it right away. One thing to remember is that the doorways of these old houses are short, so watch your head when you enter!