Skye & Outer Hebrides, 2nd edition: Includes Barra, Benbecula, Eigg, Harris, Lewis, Rum, the Uists

By Alan Murphy

These remote islands, stretching out into the Atlantic Ocean like stepping stones in a vast lake, lie at the extremity of the British Isles and the very edge of our imagination. Hike through the Isle of Skye and feel your heart soar at the sight of surreal rock formations, wild emerald pastures, and implacable mountains rising from the sea. Footprintfocus will guide you from these wondrous sights to the Outer Hebrides where you’ll experience true remoteness – fierce Atlantic winds, bleak peat bogs, and endless tiny lochs. These are the islands of emptiness, and there’s nowhere like them on earth.

• Includes Essentials section with practical information on getting from island to island.

• Get off the beaten track and discover Skye’s charming but little-known ‘Small Isles’.

• Accommodation listings aplenty, plus where to eat and drink.

• Detailed street maps will help you find your way around.

• Slim enough to fit in your pocket.

Packed with practical and detailed advice on how to navigate these breathtaking landscapes, this concise Footprintfocus guide will help you get the most out of your trip without weighing you down.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides Ltd
• Release date: Apr 10, 2014
• ISBN: 9781910120187

Alan Murphy

When Alan Murphy upped sticks and left the fleshpots of Dundee to start his own seaweed-collecting business on a remote island croft, many saw it as a cry for kelp. But Alan not only survived several bleak Hebridean winters, he went on to found a sanctuary for wayward seal pups and devoted the next 10 years of his life to working with young stray marine mammals. Later, following a chance encounter with the editor of Footprint’s South American Handbook in a sleazy salsa bar in Soho, London, Alan turned his hand to travel writing, trading the rain swept peat moors of northern Scotland for the steamy jungles of South America to research and write Footprint guides to Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and Venezuela. But the pull of his homeland was too strong and Alan eventually returned to Scotland to write new Footprint guides to Scotland, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Scotland Highlands & Islands. Alan now resides in the bohemian Somerset market town of Frome with his wife and three children.

Book preview

Index

The Isle of Skye (An t-Eilean Sgitheanach) is the best known of all the Scottish islands, and its spectacular combination of mountains and sea creates some of Britain’s most breathtaking scenery. Dominating the centre of the island are The Cuillins. These implacable mountains are the greatest concentration of peaks in Britain and among the most challenging. Skye is one of the best places in Scotland for outdoor types: it offers air, sea, land and light in their purest form and any visitor will return home physically refreshed and spiritually uplifted.

The Small Isles is the collective name given to the four islands of Eigg, Muck, Rùm and Canna, lying south of Skye. Seen from the mainland, they look a very tempting prospect. Visiting these islands can be an adventure in itself, but the determined traveller will be well rewarded, particularly on Eigg and mountainous Rùm, with its superb walking and abundant wildlife.

The Outer Hebrides are a narrow, 130-mile-long chain of more than 200 islands lying 40 miles off the northwest coast of the Scottish mainland. Despite the frequency of transport connections they remain remote in every sense. In many ways, the islands are the last bastion of the old Highland life and the traditional occupations of crofting, fishing and weaving still dominate. Outside Stornoway on Lewis life still revolves around the seasons and the tides.

Relentlessly battered by fierce Atlantic winds, the islands can seem a hostile environment and an unappealing proposition. Much of the interior is bleak peat bog, rocks and endless tiny lochs, and the long, straggling crofting communities only add to the feeling of desolation. But anyone who has stood on a clifftop and felt a thrill at the power and potential of all that water should come here. Nowhere else in Britain is there such a sense of the sheer forces of nature. These are islands at the very edge of our imagination.

Planning your trip

Best time to visit Skye and the Outer Hebrides

The high season is from May to September, and this is when the islands receive the vast majority of their visitors. Though the weather tends to be better during the summer months, prices for accommodation are higher, and hotels and guesthouses in the most popular places need to be booked in advance. It’s also a good idea to make reservations on ferries to the islands during this period, especially to Skye. A major advantage to visiting in the summer months are the long hours of daylight.

From October to Easter, many sights are closed, and travelling around can be difficult, as public transport services are limited. Many of the smaller tourist offices are also closed during the low season. Some hotels and guesthouses close too.

The Scottish climate is notoriously unpredictable, especially on the west coast, where a bright, sunny morning can turn into a downpour in the time it takes to butter your toast. Predicting the weather is not an exact science and tables of statistics are most likely a waste of time. There’s an old saying in Scotland that if you don’t like the weather, then wait 20 minutes, and this just about sums it up. The west coast receives far more rain than the rest of the country and the east coast gets more sunshine. The west coast is also milder in the winter due to the relatively warm waters of the Gulf Stream. Winters can be very harsh, especially in the mountains and glens, making hiking conditions treacherous. Winter storms also make it difficult to travel around the islands as ferry services are often cancelled.

Generally, May to September are the warmest months, with an average summer high of around 18-19°C and, though they are often the driest months, you can expect rain at any time of the year. Remember the old hikers’ adage that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only inadequate clothing.

What to do in Skye and the Outer Hebrides

Blessed with wild, rugged mountains, windswept lochs, idyllic islands and miles of remote coastline, Scotland is paradise for the visitor who comes to unwind or in search of adventure amidst breathtaking scenery. Indeed, enlightened access legislation, www.outdooraccessscotland.com, now provides almost limitless opportunities for the responsible tourist to roam freely through the countryside, cycle through miles of forest, paddle down tumbling rivers or scramble up mountains to bag Munros (mountains over 3000 ft). Furthermore, come rain, hail or shine, tour operators now offer a variety of thrilling, adrenaline-packed activities, demonstrating that Scotland’s growing reputation as an adventure sports mecca is no idle boast.

Birdwatching

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, 25 Ravelston Terrace, Edinburgh, EH4 3TP, T01767-680551, www.rspb.org.uk. Scottish Ornithologists Club, Waterstone House, Aberlady, East Lothian, EH32 0PY, T01875-871330, www.the-soc.org.uk. Scottish Wildlife Trust, Cramond House, 3 Kirk Cramond, Edinburgh EH4 6HZ, T0131-3127765, www.swt.org.uk, which owns and runs over 100 nature reserves.

Don’t miss…

1Trotternish Peninsula , see here .

2Duirinish Peninsula , see here .

3Loch Coruisk , see here .

4Raasay , see here .

5The Three Chimneys , see here .

6Calanais , see here

7Uig sands , see here .

8Bays , see here .

9Barra , see here .

10 St Kilda , see here .

Numbers relate to the map on see here.

Scotland is great for birdwatching. Over 450 species have been recorded, including vast colonies of seabirds, birds of prey and many rare species. Many of the Hebridean islands are home to a rich variety of seabirds and you can also see golden eagles and rare corncrakes here. Far out in the Atlantic, St Kilda is home to the largest colony of sea birds in northern Europe.

Climbing

Mountaineering Council of Scotland, The Old Granary, West Mill St, Perth, T01738-493942, www.mcofs.org.uk; Wilderness Scotland, T01479-420020, www.wildernessscotland.com. Other useful websites: www.scotclimb.org.uk, www.guiding onskye.co.uk and www.skyeguides.co.uk.

With hundreds of summer and winter climbing routes, rock climbers and winter mountaineers alike are spoilt for choice in Scotland. The infamous Cuillin ‘Hills’ on Skye offer some of the most challenging climbing in the country, especially on the jagged-edged Black Cuillins in the west. Most mountaineering clubs have regular weekend meets in the hills as well as social gatherings closer to home.

Cycling

Cyclists’ Touring Club (CTC), Parklands, Railton Rd, Guilford, Surrey, T0131-448 0930 (Scotland), www.ctc.org.uk, is the largest cycling organization in the UK. Scottish Cyclists’ Union (SCU), The Velodrome, Meadowbank Stadium, London Rd, Edinburgh EH7 6AD, T0131-652 0187, www.britishcycling.org.uk/scotland, produces an annual handbook and calendar of events for road racing, time trialling and mountain biking. SUSTRANS, T0845-113 0065, www.sustrans.org.uk, is the UK’s leading sustainable transport charity. VisitScotland tourist office, www.visitscotland.com, for maps and details of cycle routes in their area. It also publishes Cycling in Scotland (free), listing bike repair shops and operators. See also www.spokes.org.uk.

Cycling is a great way to explore the islands. Skye’s mountainous typography may put off all but the fittest cyclists, but the Outer Hebrides are generally flatter and the miles of virtually traffic-free roads are a delight to explore. On two wheels, you can fully appreciate the amazing scenery around. There is, of course, the major problem of strong winds, however, which can leave you frustrated and exhausted, especially if cycling into a prevailing south-westerly. Bikes can be transported for free on many ferry routes and cycle hire is readily available in several places around the islands.

Mountain safety

Visitors to Scotland should be aware of the need for caution and safety preparations when walking or climbing in the mountains. The nature of Scottish weather is such that a fine sunny day can turn into driving rain or snow in a matter of minutes. Remember that a blizzard can be raging on the summit when the car park at the foot of the mountain is bathed in sunshine. It is essential to get an up-to-date weather forecast before setting off on any walk or climb. Whatever the time of year, or conditions when you set off, you should always carry or wear essential items of clothing. A basic list for summer conditions would be: boots with a good tread and ankle support, and a thick pair of socks; waterproof jacket and trousers, even on a sunny day; hat and gloves are important if the weather turns bad; warm trousers should be worn or carried, tracksuit bottoms are okay if you also have waterproof trousers; a spare woolly jumper or fleece jacket will provide an extra layer; a map and compass are essential to carry and to know how to use. Other essentials are food and drink, a simple first-aid kit, a whistle and a torch. A small 25-30 litre rucksack should be adequate for carrying the above items. Also remember to leave details of your route and expected time of return with someone, and remember to inform them on your return.

In the winter extra warm clothing is needed, as well as an ice axe and crampons, and the ability to use them. The skills required for moving over ice or snow should be practised with an experienced and qualified mountain guide or instructor.

Bikes can be taken free on all FirstScotRail services including the sleeper rail services on a first come, first served basis (call ScotRail bookings, T08457-550033, www.firstscotrail.com). However, check with Virgin Rail and GNER for their conditions of carriage. Regardless, space is always limited on trains so it’s a good idea to book as far in advance as possible. Airlines will often accept bikes as part of your baggage allowance. Check with the airline about any restrictions.

Diving

The Puffin Dive Centre, T01631-566088, www.puffin.org.uk, is the UK’s most comprehensive diving facility (based in Oban) and runs intensive PADI courses.

Scotland may not have the Great Barrier Reef but it does have some of the finest dive locations in the world, featuring shipwrecks, reefs, sheer underwater cliffs, soft corals and abundant sea life. The west coast offers the best diving, as the water is warmed by the effects of the Gulf Stream and is not as cold as you might expect, even without a dry suit. Among the best sites are the west coast of Harris, the Summer Isles and the remote island of St Kilda.

Fishing

Scottish Federation of Sea Anglers, T01573-470612, www.fishsea.co.uk, provides comprehensive information on the main species to fish for and advice on where to fish. See also www.visitscotland.com/fish; www.fishscotland.co.uk, for a complete listing and key information about locations in Scotland and www.fishhebrides.co.uk.

Scotland’s rivers, streams, lochs and estuaries are among the cleanest waters in Europe and are filled with salmon, trout (sea, brown and rainbow) and pike. Not surprisingly, fishing (coarse, game and sea) is hugely popular.

There is no close season for coarse fishing or sea angling. For wild brown trout the close season is early October to mid-March. The close season for salmon and sea trout varies from area to area and between net and rod fishing. It is generally from late August to early February for net fishing, and from early November to early February for rod fishing. No licence is required to fish, but you must obtain a permit from the owners or their agents. These are often readily available at the local fishing tackle shop and usually cost from around £15.

Golf

VisitScotland, www.visitscotland.com. VisitScotland’s Golfing in Scotland brochure provides a comprehensive break-down of prices and courses across the country, plus lists of accommodation providers. To arrange golfing holidays, visit www.scotland-golf-tours.co.uk.

Scotland has over 400 golf courses, with more being built all the time, and therefore has more courses per head of population than any other country in the world. The majority of private clubs allow visitors, although many have restrictions as to what days these visitors can play. Weekends are usually reserved for club competitions for the members, so it is best to try to play on a weekday. All private clubs have a dress code and it is inadvisable to turn up in a T-shirt and jeans. These minor caveats aside, you are likely to receive a warm, courteous welcome.

Among the golf courses in the Hebrides is the classic links course at Askernish Golf Club, Lochboisdale, South Uist, T01878-700083, www.askernishgolfclub.com.

Hillwalking

Visit Scotland has details of numerous walks in the Hebrides and produces an official ‘Walk in Scotland’ guide. Scottish Rights of Way Society, www.scotways.com.

Scotland is a walker’s paradise. Throughout the country there are numerous marked trails, ranging from short walks to long-distance treks. Whatever your taste or level of fitness and experience, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track and explore the countryside.

Among the best places for walking are the Trotternish Peninsula on Skye, with its bizarre rock formations, and, of course, the formidable Cuillin Hills. The Small Isles of Rùm and Canna are also beautiful places to explore on foot. In the Outer Hebrides, North Harris and South Uist offer great opportunities for walking in unspoilt landscapes.

The best time for hiking in the mountains depends solely on the weather and your experience. Mountain weather conditions change so fast that one moment it can be a clear, crisp day in November and the next a blizzard. So, though April to October is arguably the ‘safest’ period for the less experienced, always carry clothing that will keep you warm should conditions deteriorate. Winter walking requires technical equipment such as ice axes and crampons, and a lot of experience. June to August are the busiest times, though only the most popular routes get really crowded. Another problem during these months are midges, see box, see here.

Scotland has a long tradition of enabling access to mountain and moorland. This free access, of course, relies on walkers behaving responsibly in accordance with the Outdoor Access Code. In particular, it’s the walker’s responsibility to ensure he or she doesn’t damage fences, crops or worry livestock. At certain times of the year, such as the main shooting seasons, walkers may be asked to respect certain restrictions on access.

Kayaking

Clear Water Paddling, T01871-810443, www.clearwaterpaddling.com; National Kayak School, T08456-436054, www.nationalkayakschool.com; Skyak Adventures, T01471-820002, www.skyakadventures.com; Uist Outdoor Centre, www.uistoutdoorcentre.co.uk, Whitewave Activities, T01471-542414, www.white-wave.co.uk.

Scotland’s rivers, lochs and deeply indented coastline offer great opportunities for canoeing and kayaking. Whilst legions of river kayakers head for the slalom gates of Grandtully, it’s the azure waters of the Inner and Outer Hebrides that have helped establish Scotland as one of Europe’s top sea kayaking destinations.

Pony trekking and horse riding

British Horse Society Scotland (BHS), Woodburn Farm, Crieff, T01764-656334, www.bhs.org.uk, the BHS website provides a full listing of all BHS-approved riding schools in Scotland and details of forthcoming major events. Trekking and Riding Society of Scotland (TRRS), Bruaich-Na-H’Abhainne, Margowan, Killin, Perthshire, KF21 8TN, T01567-820909, www.ridinginscotland.com. Isle of Skye Trekking and Riding Centre, T01470-582419, www.theisleofskyetrekkingcentre.co.uk.

Pony trekking is a long-established activity in Scotland and miles of beautiful coastline, lochsides and moorland are accessible on horseback. VisitsScotland produces a ‘Riding Scotland’ brochure listing riding centres around the country, all of them approved by the Trekking and Riding Society of Scotland (TRSS) or the British Horse Society (BHS).

Surfing

Scottish Surfing Federation, www.thessf.com. Useful websites are, www.sas.org.uk and www.hebrideansurf.co.uk.

Scotland has some of the best surfing beaches in Europe, a fact recognized by its hosting of a World Pro Surf Tour (qualifying) competition in 2006. But despite the clean coral and beach breaks, powerful waves and pristine (island) beaches, this is no sun-drenched Hawaii. Surfing in Scotland is decidedly chillier with temperatures in the spring and autumn as low as 4-5°C! However, you could be pleasantly surprised at the temperature between July and October, but remember a good wetsuit is essential.

The best surfing beaches are to be found at the northern tip of the Isle of Lewis, on North and South Uist, the north coast of Scotland (including Thurso), Machrihanish at the southwestern tip of the Mull of Kintyre and all along the coast east of Edinburgh. In recent years, a host of reputable surf